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1. Aperture (AV mode)
Aperture
Aperture is the name for the hole in a lens which controls
the depth of field in a photograph.
The main purpose of using aperture-priority mode is to
control the depth of field.
Depth of field refers to the range of distance that appears
acceptably sharp.
Thesmaller the F Number,
The larger the hole in the
lens. As more light is let in
the camera due to the large
hole, it means that the
depth of field does not
occur as well as a larger F
Number.
As you can see, the higher the
F number, the smaller the hole
in the lens or aperture. Thus
meaning a much greater depth
of field as less light is let in the
camera.
2. Here the photograph has
been taken using a
Smaller F Number of
F/4.5. This has a wide
aperture due to one
image being the central
focus. The image was
taken close to the
camera to enhance the
effect of what large
aperture can create.
Here the F Number on
this photograph was
F/11. This starts to
become more clear as
depth of field is starting
to be seen across the
image. Here the full
image starts to become
clear however the
background is still not in
focus.
Here the Photograph
was taken at F/29. This
is clear as the small
aperture creates a much
larger depth of field due
to full image being clear
and you can see objects
such as the Rubbish Bin
without Noise. It is clear
throughout the image.
3. Shutter Speed TV (Time value)
Mode
Shutter Speed
Shutter speed or exposure time as it is also known, is the length of
time a camera's shutter is open when taking a photograph. Shutter
speed is recorded in seconds and the bigger the denominator, the
faster the speed. When taking moving objects, 1/60th of a second or
higher will be used to avoid camera shake, this occurs when the
shutter is open and results in blur on the images, such as seen on the
images on the next page.
As you can see on the
chart that The smaller the
number the faster the
shutter opens and closes
meaning less light can hit
the camera. This looks
more into the exposure of
the images but it is good
knowledge to understand
how the seconds in the
shutter being open affect
the results.
The slower the shutter
speed, the longer the time
passes from when you
press the button on the
camera to when it is
taken. Thus meaning
more light is let in and
images may become like
that one at the bottom of
the chart.
4. This photograph was taken
at an exposure time of
1/200 of a second. This
was taken quicker as it is
designed to capture the
moving car and had to
allow as little light as
possible.
The photograph was
taken at a slower
shutter speed of 1/15 of
a second meaning the
camera took longer to
react and ultimately
came out blurred. It is
just quick enough to
capture what the subject
is in the photograph.
The Photograph was
taken at a very slow
exposure time of 1/4of a
second. This meant that
not only would the
photograph be blurred
but it would allow that
much light that the
image would be very
difficult to see.
5. ISO settings
The ISO setting on a camera
changes how sensitive the
sensor is to light.
The lower the ISO number, the
less sensitive it is to light meaning
a darer image will be produced
but will be less likely to have
noise in.
Noise being the grains that
appear on a image that may
have also been caused due
to camera shake.
Using a larger ISO on
a camera would mean
that it will be more
sensitive to light.
A good image would be
considered to be in the
middle of the scale as
it would have enough
light however it would
not be over exposed.
6. This photograph was taken at
a much lower ISO of 100. This
has allowed less light in the
camera due to having such a
fast speed. The shutter speed
setting on this ISO was ½ of a
second. From these images it
is clear that the speed of the
camera and light determine
how well the image is.
This Photograph was taken at
an ISO of 800. This is seen as
a good image because it
captures the natural daylight by
having just the right amount of
light in the lens. This
photograph had a shutter
speed of 1/15th of a second,
this is seen by capturing all the
necessary detail in the image.
This photograph was taken at
an ISO of 3200. This shows
an over exposure to light
meaning the image is a lot
lighter than the other lower
ISO images. You start you
lose detail such as in the
centre of the stairwell and
lose colour on the walls and
ceiling.
7. Here is an example of
Camera Shake. This
produces grain in the image
meaning it becomes harder
to see.
When zooming close into
the image it becomes more
clear that it has been over
exposed and does not have
any detail in the object.
However in
contrast to this
image of the same
object, it has been
taken with steady
hand and with a
lower ISO to avoid
any Noise or
Camera shake.
8. This is an example of Noise in an image. A Large ISO of
6400 has been used to fully show the grain in the image
when zoomed in.
8
9. White Balance
White Balance is altering the way the camera sees White.
White Balance is used to change the way the
/
photographs are taken, and sometimes is vital to create a
photograph suitable to that climate around you.
Using the cloudy setting in bright daylight will give your
image a warmer, yellow tint to it or the Tungsten setting to
make the image blue and more abstract.
There are many
temperatures when
looking at white
balance and you can
alter an image to
whatever colour you
wish by taking in
certain ways.
10. Daylight
Shade
Cloudy
Tungsten
The photographs taken with Tungsten and Daylight are very
different, However the cloudy setting does very little to change
the appearance of the photograph. The shade setting brings
out the colour that the natural daylight did not bring, this was
found absurd as the shade itself became the brightest setting
that was tried. The Tungsten gives a more peculiar impression
to the photograph and this may be used when capturing
something more exciting such as an moving object.
11. Original image
Cropped image- This technique takes away parts of the photograph you do not
want to be visible, such as here the top of the building has been cut off from the
original as that was adding more of a darker tone to the image.
12. Levels
This tool on the left is
found in Photoshop
and used to tilt the
levels to whatever
colour or brightness
you choose. The
brightness can also be
controlled in certain
parts of the image and
not the full
photograph. For
example here the
original image has had
a sharper
improvement towards
the top in the centre.
13. Curves- Similar to Levels, this controls where the light is
shared on the photograph. You can also change the
colour of the light.
Burning- Unlike Dodging, Burning takes all the light
away from the parts you do not want.
14. Dodging – Dodging has been used to bring out the colour in
the parts where the natural daylight has not brought out.
Colour Adjustments such as Hue and saturation have been used to tilt
the colour balance to more of a green image.