1. Bathroom fitting - The Hamilton Way
This is a brief outline of how we approach every bathroom refurbishment we do, and how we
expect our bathroom fitters to work on every bathroom we do. If all these steps are followed
we can guarantee that our bathrooms will not only look good on the surface, but behind the
scenes they’ll be solid, and water tight.
Floor protection
 Our first step is always to protect / cover all carpets / flooring in the hallway, stairs and
landing. As a minimum we cover everything with corex, and depending on the floor, we
might put down some plywood too, just in case anything is dropped.
 Leave nothing to chance, protect everything you think could get damaged. Better to be
safe than sorry.
Strip out / demolition work
 All sanitaryware, brassware and tiles, etc to be removed and disposed of.
 All existing stud walls will be taken back to the joists - we remove any existing plasterboard /
lath & plaster walls. To guarantee our work we need to know exactly what we’ll be tiling onto so
we need to know the joists & walls have been installed properly. If anywhere needs
strengthening, then we can do this while it’s all open.
 We don’t like leaving anything up to chance.
 Wooden floors will also be taken right back to joists. That way we can easily install all the
plumbing & electrics; and strengthen / level joists, and strengthen between the joists too,
where needed. It also lowers the floors a bit, hopefully minimizing the need for a step up into
the bathroom.
 Put simply, during this phase we take that bathroom right back to its bare bones, so we can
renew everything and give you a brand new bathroom, that will last for decades to come.

2. First fix plumbing
 During this phase we renew ALL the plumbing in the bathroom.
 All the hot / cold / heating pipes will be renewed with soldered copper pipe. Any plastic / push
fit fittings will be removed. We will connect onto the existing pipes coming into the bathroom,
but anything actually in the bathroom will be renewed. As mentioned above, we don’t like
leaving anything to chance. If we renew it all, and test it, we can stand behind it with
confidence. All hot and cold pipework will be isolated using full bore isolation valves, along with
soldered caps before testing.
 All the waste pipework will be renewed with new plastic solvent weld pipe & fittings. In
properties that share one main stack, this isn’t always possible, but wherever it is possible, we
will renew all the waste pipework. Rodding eyes will be fitted at this stage, and any venting
issues (a common problem in London), will be addressed now too.
First fix electrics
 All our electrics is carried out by a qualified electrician.
 All electrics will be RCD protected and we provide a minor works certificate on every job we do
(as a minimum).
 We renew as much of the electrics in the bathrooms as possible, if not all of it (obviously this is
job dependant). There are often quite a lot of electrics in a modern bathroom, so it’s usually a
good time to upgrade / renew everything anyway.
Preparing floor
 We will strengthen between all floor joists, using timber noggins (glued & screwed).
 Insulation is then fitted in between all the floor joists (50mm Rockwool Acoustic Insulation).
 Then 18mm WBP plywood will be glued & screwed to the joists, and the noggins, using 3”
screws (Minimum). We use screws everywhere, no nails, ever.
 Ditra matting will then be laid down over the top of the 18mm plywood. Ditra matting provides
an outstanding surface to tile on to. It is also waterproof, further adding to the water tightness
of the bathroom, as well as having shock-absorbing properties to prevent the floor tiles from
cracking.

3.  Any joins in the Ditra matting will be waterproofed with Mapei waterproofing jointing tape, and
the edge of the room, where the Ditra matt meets the walls, will all be sealed off with Mapei
jointing tape too, creating a completely water tight floor to tile onto.
 Concrete floors will be hoovered and mopped, before laying Ditra matt).
Preparing walls
 Wall joists will be strengthened where necessary, and levelled (needs to be discussed with
customer first, as some old Victorian homes are not exactly level, and levelling them all
perfectly can sometimes be an issue).
 Insulation is fitted in between all the floor joists (50mm Rockwool Acoustic Insulation).
 All walls that we will be tiling on to, will be re-boarded using ‘Jackoboard’ waterproof backing
board for tiles (10mm min). Joints / corners of Jackoboard will be taped and joined with Mapei
waterproofing tape.
 All walls to be plastered will be re-boarded with moisture resistant plasterboard, prior to
skimming.
 Any boxing is to be made using a timber frame and Jackoboard too.

4. Preparing ceiling (plastering / suspending)
 Ceilings usually don’t need replacing, this all depends on whether we’re installing downlighters
etc.
 If we do need to remove the ceiling though, we will remove it completely (especially if it’s old
lath & plaster), and re-board it using moisture resistant plasterboard, and then skimming it.
 If the ceiling is being suspended, a frame will be built using timber joists, not metal. Boarded
with moisture resistant plasterboard. And then skimmed after the electrician has ‘first-fixed’ his
spot lights etc.
 Ceilings will need to be assessed on a per job basis.
Tiling floor
 Floors to be tiled using a proper notched trowel, no dotting & dabbing of tiles...ever.
 We us Mapei tile adhesive only – Keraquick (Floors) / Keraflex (Walls).
Tiling walls
 Again, all tiling needs to be done using a proper notched trowel, no dotting and dabbing is
allowed. (If walls have been re-done properly, then there should be no need to dot and dab
tiles).
 Ensure all shower areas and around baths etc have been properly waterproofed before tiling
 Mapei tile adhesive is to be used - Keraflex (is usually best for walls).
 Tile edges need to be MITRED on all corners / around windows / recessed shelves / boxing etc.
We will avoid using cheap-looking tile trim at all costs!

5. Second fix plumbing + testing
 Check all thermostatic valves are calibrated correctly.
 Fill the bath / basin etc. Check all the drain are running free and there are no leaks.
 The bathroom should be ready to use after the second fix, and you should be able to explain
(and show) how everything works to the customer upon completion.
Second fix electrics + testing
 Double check drawings / plans / with the customer about heights and positions of things.
Painting and decorating
 Woodwork needs to be rubbed down properly; any holes etc filled with wood filler and rubbed
down again; and then a minimum of 2 coats of Dulux Eggshell applied (Or similar wood paint
supplied by customer).
 A mist coat (50/50 mix of water & emulsion), needs to be applied to all newly plastered walls /
ceilings, so that the paint can soak into the plaster properly and form a bond.
 Following that walls and ceiling will be painted with 2 coats of Dulux ‘Mouldtec’ Bathroom paint
or paint supplied by customer, as long as it is designed specifically for bathrooms.

6. Other
 Access hatches must be fitted everywhere that pipes etc might need to be accessed at some
point in the future, i.e. under baths, behind concealed cisterns etc.
 Water shut-off valves need to be accessible too.
 All water shut-off valves need to be ‘full bore’ isolation valves.