1. L o n d on fa s h i o n w e e k
LONDON
FASHION reporting from
fashion’s front Line
WEEK 2011
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PRINCIPAL SPONSOR
issue n o 3, London fashion week autumn/ winter 2011 in association with tuesday 22 february 2011
the fashion moment English blooms and sunset hues backstage at the Erdem A/W 2011 show yesterday (see page 5 for catwalk review). Photography by Anna Bauer
fashion forecast: bright Thoughtful
fizz, bubble, pop! winter ahead shopper
RepoRt by heath bRown The latter half of Kane’s collection RepoRt by david hayes deep-pile velvet dresses, soft georgette noted by linda gRant
Christopher Kane insists the fine saw dye-filled see-through plastic “There is a real emphasis on trousers and seamed Lurex knits Years ago, one of the first female
cashmere crochet presented at the details adding muted colour to ‘investment’ at the moment,” said (below). “I wanted to strip everything newspaper editors told me, “I don’t
beginning of his catwalk show had simple, beautifully cut dresses. “I Vogue’s Fashion Director Kate back to blocks of colour this season,” need a coat, I have a driver.” While
nothing to do with the current street was inspired by pencil cases we had Phelan, after the Burberry Prorsum he said after his show. And what I’m waiting for my lottery win and
trend for granny chic. when young and the way ice-pops show. “Everyone has enough black colour – everything from dusty pink, my driver, my coats are the most
“It’s more Art School than an old were all squidgy before they froze.” and grey. That now means a powdery lilac and soft tangerine to important items in my wardrobe,
lady,” he told us backstage. “It’s the As a finale, Kane showed beaded designer’s colour palette is really bright turquoise and chartreuse and the ones I’m prepared to spend
most luxurious crochet you’ve ever column dresses with lava lamp- significant when a women wants to green. “It’s nonsense you have to do most money on. Here in the
seen.” So where did he source these esque insets. “I wanted a SodaStream invest in something extra special.” dark colours for winter,” van der Ham northern hemisphere, we can spend
creations from? kinda feel,” he said, “all fizzy, The coats from Christopher added. Suddenly charcoal grey and up to eight months a year in a coat.
“We’re not telling you,” said bubbling and sparkling.” More fine Bailey (which are indeed Burberry’s black are looking just a little bit silly. At Peter Pilotto, a duo best known
Tammy, his sister and business champagne than plain soda, I’d say. “something extra special”, with buy- for their beautiful prints, the stand-
partner. “And it wasnee me!” his it-now prices starting at £1,395), Photography by Anna Bauer. out pieces were the long, lean
mother told me. “I can hardly knit.” Photography by catwalking.com came in shades of lipstick red, deep For more pics, see lfwdaily.com greatcoats with military styling, big
orange, teal blue and loden green for collars and slanted pockets.
don’t throw it all away next season. They perfectly nailed
London’s trend for lush colours-to-
keep in ultra-rich fabrics.
These coats, in black, navy and
winter white, were ingenious in their
interpretations of how to tailor.
RepoRt by MaRion huMe it with a grey cashmere sweater to “It’s not about buying a cheap Some were cut away at the front to
In fashion, out of fashion – it’s an
there’s bring it back in later years. Ditto the item in fluoro yellow from the high reveal wide-legged trousers, but the
old-fashioned concept in a world nothing more Burberry biker jacket – great now, street any more,” said The Observer’s most interesting ones looked hard at
where we know the consequences of next season too identifiable and Fashion Editor Jo Jones. “I saw the long-neglected topic of sleeves.
throwing things away.
modern than maybe even a bit old, but then you another editor in an amazing red coat There were velvet sleeves on wool
But how can the “Reissue, Reuse, cLothes that bring it back.” On Issa’s A/W 11 hit yesterday. That’s the kind of thing you coats or, startlingly, no sleeves, like a
Recycle” mantra work for new list for cradle-to-cradle wear? JW want to invest in, hold on to for ever gilet, with many possibilities for what
pieces so outstanding that not only
Last forever Anderson’s long pleated kilt. and bring out again and again.” to wear beneath, to add interest to a
will they be recognised when you should be, chic front-row fixture As for clothes that last a lifetime, As dappled and luminous as an functional item and mark it with
wear them, but might even look Caroline Issa, the Publisher and several editors were spotted Impressionist painting, the colour your own individuality. Better still,
“old” if worn a year from now? Executive Fashion Director of Tank, reworking Yohji Yamamoto pieces at Erdem had that keep-me-forever with a large enough wardrobe, it’s
Think of them as “cradle to says, “At least three seasons and bought years ago, in tribute to his feeling practically woven through never the same coat twice.
cradle” pieces, treasures that will be then worn differently to keep it upcoming V&A exhibition. As The every seam. But it was Michael van
worn with joy the first-time around, fresh. Take Christopher Kane’s Telegraph’s Tamsin Blanchard puts der Ham who came up with some of We Had It So Good by Linda
packed away and then brought out neon skirts from last season – wear it, “There’s nothing more modern the most sumptuous shades of the Grant (Virago) is out now.
again. As for how long that time lag one now, take a break and then team than clothes that last forever.” week in a standout collection of Visit lindagrant.co.uk

2. 2 news London fashion week the daiLy Tuesday 22 February 2011
lFw the daily CRedits Live catwaLk iLLustration at david koma
By Julie Verhoeven
the daily shop
Editor Next season’s catwalk looks are
Cat CallendeR all very well, but you can snap up
Deputy Editor & Chief Sub Editor these S/S beauties right now.
MaRion Jones Compiled by victoria bain,
Art Director & Designer
bianCa wendt
Managing Editor
Jane Money
Deputy Chief Sub Editor
Fiona Russell
Sub Editors
MiChelle MaRgheRita,
kiRsty hislop, Robin wilks
Designers
CatheRine nippe, eMMa williaMs,
Jake dow-sMith
Reporters
david hayes, Julia Robson, bLouse, £65
heath bRown, MaRion huMe, Biba (houseoffraser.co.uk)
susanna lau
Beauty Correspondents
annabel Meggeson, Jess hogan
Guest Contributors
linda gRant, eMMa loFstRoM,
philippa williaMs
Staff Photographers
anna baueR, MaRCus dawes, bangLes, £290 each
shaniqwa JaRvis Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co
Distribution Manager (00 800 2000 1122)
FRan webeR-newth
Production Manager
CaRolyn Mott
Blog Reporter
eMily FleuRiot
Blog Commissioning Editor
yasMin Coke
Editorial Assistants
alison potteR, bRooke RutheRFoRd
Runners bikini top £14.99
,
aMy Maloney, giveRney edwaRds River Island (020 8991 4904)
Website Designer
wolFRaM wiedneR
BFC Marketing Manager
ClaRa MeRCeR
Printed by
the guaRdian pRint CentRe
Published by
Jenny dyson & Cat CallendeR
at Jenny & the Cat ltd
Thanks to
the bRitish Fashion CounCil
earrings, £7.50
soMeRset house
Freedom at Topshop (01277 844476)
h&M FoR the stylish suppoRt
M&s FoR the Fashionable Food
MeRCedes-benz FoR the wit-woo wheels
For advertising enquiries,
email cat@lfwdaily.com
BESPOKE FEATURE
Riot RepoRt by Julia Robson
A fountain pen (along with a black
Sarah Bailey of Harper’s Bazaar
uses a plastic Pilot V fountain pen
Boyyys
Moleskine) is going the way of because “it simply writes so much
the dodo, but we can reveal that the more fluidly. Great for making
fash-pack folk haven’t entirely notes, and something of a cult in the
dispensed with theirs (yet). HB office”.
“I would do a fountain pen, The BFC’s Rosanna Falconer
but I’d get it all over my clothes,” uses a fountain pen, as does The
dress, £110
MeadhaM Kirchhoff is one of London’s said front-rower Melanie Rickey, Daily’s own Cat Callender.
Autograph at M&S
most uncompromising labels. As revered for its iPad teetering precariously on lap. “I asked for a fountain pen for
(marksandspencer.com)
highly crafted creations as for a refusal to give “I use one in my daily life for my birthday and got a Parker with
a fig about trends, owners Ed Meadham and cards and letters. It’s the ultimate a black-gold nib,” says Callender.
Benjamin Kirchhoff wouldn’t dream of designing anti-iPad statement.” “After so much time on a computer,
anything as banal as an It bag. It hasn’t stopped “For me, it’s iPhone for shows it’s a counterpoint to pick up a
them just winning a fashion forward and fountain pen for thank-yous,” fountain pen and be reminded of
sponsorship, though. “It’s very significant for says Grazia’s Paula Reed. the craft by which I earn my living.”
us,” say the duo. “It gives us the opportunity to
a regal toast to dame Viv
develop our work in a relevant manner.”
The BFC initiative, sponsored by Coutts &
Co for a second year and supported by the LDA,
provides two seasons of financial support and Jack. Only 2,500 have been issued,
RepoRt by MaRion huMe badges, £3.17 for siX
mentoring to three emerging British designers. with just a few going to Harrods,
You’d assume that designers would Little Lark (alittlelark at etsy.com)
It’s a good fit for Coutts, which has a history Selfridges and Harvey Nics to be sold
welcome a stiff drink after the slog
of supporting creatives. In choosing Meadham at £400 a pop.
of staging a show, but few are toasted
Kirchhoff, it is also canny. Here is a label whose Westwood is the third designer
as Vivienne Westwood was on
S/S 11 show rejected the prevailing good-taste to collaborate with Chivas Regal,
Sunday night: with 18-year-old
trend for a weirdly ethereal grunge. And yet after Christian Lacroix and the late
Chivas Regal, at a candlelit dinner
the collection helped kick-start a season of the Alexander McQueen, although few
for just 45 people in a Regency
same on the high street. The label’s credentials of McQueen’s bottles reached the
mansion in Belgravia.
– rebel stance, poetic sensibility, subcultural market. While Chivas Regal called a
Westwood has designed what is
references, high-street fans – are utterly London. halt as a mark of respect, about 100 cLutch, £390
sure to be a much-coveted bottle for
So what will the pair unveil today with their bottles had sold before his death, Maison du Posh at Selfridges
the whisky brand. “I don’t do many
show, I Am a Lie That Tells the Truth? “It’s about and now change hands for thousands. (0800 123400)
things like it, but I like this,” she
feminism. There’s an element of subverting “We can’t, and wouldn’t put a price
said, as she showed Tracey Emin the
bourgeois symbols,” says Meadham, a CSM on them,” says Chivas VP Vanessa
bottle, swagged in a battered Union
menswear graduate, like his partner. “I grew up Wright, “and we’d never sell the
with Courtney Love and Riot Grrrls.” Then he
adds, “And I’ve been depressed. The collection
is a manifestation of a huge emotional void.”
Theirs is a vision of heart-rending
contradiction, then – romantic and tough, RepoRt by david hayes over at Antonio Berardi – no
political and personal, all sewn into wool and “I tried to tweet about lamé stranger to a bit of sparkle, it has
lace, velvet and embroidery. These two are yesterday, but I didn’t know how to to be said – it was all about Lurex
coining a beauty all of their own. do the accent on the ‘e’,” says siren dresses in show-stopping skirt, £105
Harper’s Bazaar’s Sarah Bailey. red and gold. Even Mulberry’s Karen Millen (0870 160 1830)
Meadham Kirchhoff is showing today
“And without the accent… well, that Emma Hill included floor-length
at 1.45pm, EC3
would just be ‘lame’, wouldn’t it?” gold plissé in her country-girl mix.
Anyone with a magpie eye like Can’t quite picture it? Get help
Bailey’s is in for a treat next season: now. “One of our team obviously
even the most unexpected of thought it was so tasteless that
designers has gone all razzle- she couldn’t even remember seeing
dazzle “jazz hands” showbiz on us. it,” says Bailey. “Not a glimmer –
Yes, we mean you, Richard Nicoll. she had completely blocked it
Nicoll’s lamé was gorgeous liquid from her memory.”
midnight-blue stuff, fashioned into wedges, £240
drop-waist dresses to die for. And See pics at lfwdaily.com The Kooples (020 7589 7696)

3. www.lfwdaily.com news 5
Catwalk highlights
4 news London fashion week the daiLy Tuesday 22 February 2011
Report by cLare couLson , Fashion Features Director, Harper’s Bazaar
Photography by catwalking.com
the
beauty
spot
peteR pilotto buRbeRRy pRoRsuM MiChael van deR haM eRdeM
The show notes for Peter Pilotto’s collection talked of It was fitting that Christopher Bailey chose to move his Like many designers this season, Michael van der Ham The biggest problem when faced with Erdem’s collection
i am woman, hear me roarrr!
“a new tough territory”, but tough is probably the Burberry show to Kensington Gardens this season – the explored velvet for autumn, draping, folding and is how to make rapid notes on all those incredible prints,
wrong word, as there was nothing hard about the vast marquee was a stone’s throw from the stamping wrapping it into a series of dresses in rose pink, fuchsia, intense colours and finely worked details (perhaps, for a
draped dresses, the dynamic digital prints or the foray grounds of the original Chelsea girls who inspired his lilac, peacock blue and turquoise, before exploring start, someone could come up with a colour sequel to Niki
into knits that the duo showed first thing yesterday collection. With Dusty Springfield’s You Don’t Have to draped tops in the same material, which were paired Segnit’s Flavour Thesaurus). His autumn collection will
RepoRt by annabel Meggeson glimpsed beneath tousled hair, fresh the strong woman was a little late to RepoRt by JessiCa hogan
At Christopher Kane (right), morning. However, this season some strong tailoring – Say You Love Me on the soundtrack, Bailey kicked off with fluid silk trousers in matching colours. It was surely have his fans salivating, including Samantha
If there’s one fashion role model from fighting the good fight. arrive. But perhaps it’s just taken There’s something fishy going on at
collars filled with watery gel and in the form of long sleeveless coats – did offer a more with a parade of fabulous outerwear – clean-cut coats in familiar van der Ham territory, even if panne velvet Cameron, who sat front row at yesterday’s show. This
you can’t argue with, it’s the strong At Michael van der Ham, rich, her a while to acquire her powers. LFW. From the mermaid-like hair
shiny sequins inspired hair stylist structured counterpoint to the often complex dresses Sixties silhouettes, in tangerine, scarlet, lime and replaced last season’s rich silks and dévorés. Less familiar, season, Erdem developed painterly abstract prints with
woman. And though she was all earthy bronzers and eyeshadows At Holly Fulton, hair stylist at Christopher Kane to the fishtail
Paul Hanlon’s slick ponytail, and he and tops. And while many silhouettes seemed to be Wedgwood blue, before moving into skinny-rib knits and perhaps more successful, was his experimentation shots of magenta, emerald and turquoise, which were
over the catwalks in New York, it’s sculpted the face into a look that Duffy noted, “Holly’s woman started plaits and silvery skin at Erdem,
used plain old H2O to give mousse- developed from last season’s collection, they seemed and figure-hugging black flares or beatnik pants and with knits. Blocks of colour, metallics and florals with worked into long, lean velvet or silk dresses. He reined
taken her a while to emerge in make-up artist Hiromi Ueda out young and fun, and last season make-up artists and hair stylists
prepped hair a “soaked” texture. more commercial than Spring/Summer’s slightly cropped jackets in oversized plaids. Nubbly tweeds in an Art Deco feel were merged into simple long-sleeved in his silhouettes, focusing on shifts and neat pencil
London this week. She’s now out summed up as “tough but beautiful”. she started to grow up. But this were hooked on a watery beauty.
Make-up artists continued the tricky midi-lengths. Perhaps that’s because there moss green and earthy browns followed along with sweaters paired with colourful silk pants, or into shifts skirts, while occasionally letting his prints sing on more
in full force and ready to take on David Koma’s signature power- season her strengths are really Far from diluting the message
marine theme. For Erdem, Nichola were more options – some shorter, printed dresses, glossy black fur coats, trimmed with patent leather, worn with cardigans. Without the complex drapery, his billowing chiffon dresses. But he also showed how to wear
the season in style. dressed woman even toughened up playing out.” The result? Structured of the catwalks, it has helped
Joss used a “silvery-rose” highlighting silk tops and clean column dresses, some of which while the Burberry trench was reworked in a cream patchworks of colour seemed much more approachable. all those prints in a more modern way, by teaming a
Last season, Peter Pilotto’s muse the clean line of her ponytail, with a hair and strong crimson lips, the clothes do the talking. “The
fluid to add shimmer; at Pringle of featured billowing trains. Some shapes didn’t quite Aran knit with black leather trims. Leave it to Bailey to He ended with a series of asymmetric tailoring in lustrous silk skirt with a plain raspberry pink Aran knit,
was the epitome of modern wrap of wool and leather. courtesy of make-up artist Andrew collection is very fluid,” said hair
Scotland, Loni Baur moisturised lips work – the layering of skirts over voluminous trousers, give us one of Fashion Week’s sweetest moments: as his chunky wools and some challenging trousers entirely or contrasting a long-sleeved printed tee with a clashing
elegance. This time around, she was “It’s not just any ponytail, it took Gallimore for M.A.C. stylist Luke Hersheson, of the
for an aqueous sheen; and at Giles, for one. But those printed trousers had a lot more flock of Chelsea girls took to the catwalk for their finale, embroidered with swags of silk fringe, which jarred A-line velvet skirt. And for anyone still not convinced of
a sharp-edged icon of revolution us ages to get the look just right,” Hey, it’s only make-up – but it’s clothes at Richard Nicoll. “I wanted
Lucia Pieroni used M.A.C’s Lipglass to appeal when they were paired with an elegant draped faux snow tumbled down from the roof-top as each girl a little. Van der Ham has such a great eye for colour and the allure of print, Nicholas Kirkwood’s delicious silk
(above). Her powerful personality hair stylist Shay Dempsey pointed apt for these revolutionary times. the hair to complement that.”
lend a wet shine to cheeks and lids. jersey top and a tailored coat. walked out in a cream beret and a clear plastic cape. he’s at his best when he embraces it. boots provided a pretty attractive access point.
was evoked with a statement eye in out backstage. Cue boyish, slicked-back locks
vibrant green and clashing yellow, All of which could explain why Photography by Anna Bauer morphing into long, floaty lengths.
susie styles it
Photography by Anna Bauer BESPOKE FEATURE
RepoRt FRoM the exhibition
by susanna lau
with
Clemency London is part of the
BFC/Elle Talent Launch Pad this tiffany & co.
season, and for her latest collection
designer Alison Clemency-
Buddenhagen has returned to
intricate detailing, as illustrated
by the beautiful beaded collar I’m
wearing here. It’s detachable from
the white shirt, which features
layers of silk that form a bib detail
on the front. I’m calling the
ensemble a dress... well, just about!
David Longshaw, another Talent
Launch-Padder, has once again
collaborated with his girlfriend
Kirsty Ward (who has a budding
line of her own) to create a collection
of jewellery that I love for its unique
mix of hardware. I’ve been a
longtime fan of Bebaroque,
love to love you, biba
purveyors of beautiful embellished
hosiery that is always eye-catching,
and these black numbers, decked
out with paillettes and tassels,
are no exception.
It’s the high-street name we cherish, but whose reinventions have left
Clemency London collar and dress
a trail of broken hearts. So how has shirt, L2; David Longshaw
necklace, L2; Bebaroque tights,
House of Fraser made Biba bloom again? L1, all at the Exhibition,
Embankment Galleries, Somerset
“The chance came up and we grabbed it,” says Stephanie Chen, House. Boots, Susanna’s own
Executive Director of Womenswear and Accessories at House of
Fraser. She is speaking, of course, about the relaunch, exclusive to Photography by Shaniqwa Jarvis
The revel’s
House of Fraser, of one of fashion’s best beloved icons, Biba.
How did they dare go there, to a brand whose reinvention has David Koma was dotty for what really got me going,
proved so irresistible to so many, but whose magic has proved so conceptual artist Yayoi Kusama, particularly the lips that graced a
in the details
elusive to recapture? “In its heyday, Biba was all about excitement, so dots were laser-cut out of covetable pair of palazzo pants.
and that came from the product,” says Chen. “There were new cashmere and leather, and for the Les Chiffoniers surprised
things all the time, and sometimes it was barking, but we loved first time the designer known for his everyone by shifting the focus from
it.” She pauses. “We knew we had the infrastructure to support all hard-edged materials worked on its leggings to dresses – made from
that.” Cue team labour of love, universal price points and a design RepoRt by susanna lau a digital print inspired by Leigh pliable stretch leather that had once
integrity that spans it all, from denim to dresses to key rings to fine Cramming was the key word of Bowery. I always welcome the lived as leggings and had been
jewellery. Oh, and Daisy Lowe as muse. “She looks divine,” says day four of LFW, because every presence of pompoms as well as reworked into intricate patchwork
Chen. “She captures the spirit of it. She just loves Biba.” show was deemed a must-see and dotty dresses on any occasion. formations comprising ox blood,
S/S 11 is new Biba’s second season and Chen is choosing her making it to each one on time Love was in the air for Holly brown, green and other unexpected
favourite pieces. “I love the silk camisole with the dark indigo high- felt like a mountain conquered. Fulton, who fantasised about shades. The label hasn’t abandoned
waisted jeans [seen left]. We’ve had amazing feedback on the denim, It started with Peter Pilotto’s Coco Chanel’s love affair with the legwear entirely, though, as a pair
it’s a great fit.” Then there’s the tiered maxi [right]. “Especially continuation of the longer silhouette, Duke of Westminster in a way that of luxurious inky-blue ponyskin
worn with a metallic knit…” she says. Looks like the magic is back. as seen in his coats, the dresses meant luxurious detailing was rife. zippered leggings is another one to
Biba, from £15, houseoffraser.co.uk that were elongated at the back, Tweeds threaded with snakeskin, add to the list of desirable bottoms
and earthy prints in shades that Mongolian fur trims and velvet observed yesterday.
Photography by eLLen von unwerth felt “off”, but of course in the ribbondry contributed to this
context were totally right. tactile trip. Fulton’s prints were Stylebubble.co.uk tiffany.co.uk

4. Belle de jour
Roksanda Ilincic has taken her beautiful, silken, colour-infused creations from the catwalk to the high street to politics, and
reinvigorated our ideas of daywear in the process. Now she is in further expansion mode. Women of the world, rejoice
Words by k ate finnigan
Photography by Lina scheynius
he view that drops away behind
Roksanda Ilincic’s desk is
breathtaking. On entering her
fourth-floor office in east London
one cold, late-January afternoon, it’s
initially impossible to talk about
anything else. A neighbouring
warehouse has been demolished
and, in its place, spanning the width of the window, is
a huge, open wound of earth: JCBs claw at ragged black
trenches while men in yellow vests run around like ants.
And yet, here’s Ilincic, all Slavic cheekbones and
impeccable chic in her dark, wide-legged trouser suit,
standing next to a tailor’s dummy swathed in cobalt-blue
silk. Could a designer known for her fluid femininity, her
contemporary elegance, be juxtaposed against a sight
more brutal than this bleak canyon? “It’s so sci-fi!”
exclaims Ilincic with glee. “It’s been weird watching it
happen. At one point, there were machines drilling into
the ground like giant birds of prey. Funnily enough,
the Autumn/Winter collection is all about birds…”
Whether or not the audience detects something of
the urban nightmare when Serbian-born Ilincic unveils
her A/W 11 collection later today, this is the backdrop
against which it has been designed. From the evidence of
kingfisher-blue and suede-like silver silks, and from the
scatterings of Swarovski pearls and luxurious felted
wools, however, the Ilincic bird is less dystopian
PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT FRANcEScA WAY
JG Ballard and more the splendid, preening type.
There’s folklore thrown in, too. A floor-to-ceiling
mood board in the designer’s office is layered with
photographs of feathered friends – pheasants, birds of
paradise – and a startling row of ethereal, large-eyed
women, which includes Garbage’s Shirley Manson and
Liza Minnelli. “There’s this idea of the bird changing into
a woman. It’s about those connections,” Ilincic says.
But it is bird feathers and their colours that have
really inspired this collection. “It’s incredible how they
can either completely blend in with nature or, on the
contrary, be beautifully dramatic and stand out,” Ilincic
says in her romantically accented English.
“Or sometimes both. A bird can be covered in brown, a “colour surprise”. “I’ll have a touch of colour inside the best at. You get to the core of what you are.”
earthy feathers, so it settles into the background, then a dress. This blue dress [on the tailor’s dummy] has
“you don’t have to wear Professor Louise Wilson, MA Course Director at
suddenly, there’s a flash of graphic black and white and a rusty grosgrain belt inside. You can’t see it on the a corset or be tied with Central Saint Martins, was one of the first to recognise
yellow or royal blue. It’s just fascinating the way that outside, but when you open the dress up, it’s there.” Ilincic’s essence and can sum it up in two words:
nature mixes colour. No human mind can match it.” It’s this kind of detail that has taken Ilincic from
beLts and baLLgowny “Effortless elegance,” she says. “Roksanda is a woman
Ilincic, however, is trying her damnedest to. She has London Fashion Week newcomer, with a quirky fabrics to Look eLegant” who designs for women – a rare thing these days.”
always been drawn to vibrant colour combinations, and penchant for designing cocktail dresses and gowns Ilincic is happy with this tag from her mentor. “That’s
her recent creations were powered by an impressive (at a time when no one was wearing them), to an what I’m trying to achieve, a free woman in certain ways.
paintbox. The Resort 2011 collection – an explosion of established designer fronting a serious business. In launched from advice personally delivered by US Vogue’s It’s this concept of soft architecture.
mimosa-inspired fluoro yellow – was followed by her the past 12 months, she’s not only become a mother (in Anna Wintour. “It was amazing advice,” she says. “Of You don’t have to wear a corset or be completely tied
S/S 11 collection, accentuated with “dying sunset” tones August) to daughter Efimia, but is now producing four course she’s very knowledgeable, so to get advice from with lots of belts and ballgowny fabrics to look elegant.
and neon pink-orange pieces, which simulated a waxy collections a year – her first Pre-Fall collection, a sort of her is really something extraordinary and I’m just happy The architecture of a garment holds it on a body; but
sun sinking over London. “Look!” she says, whipping out reworking of her greatest hits, drops into stores in a few I was able to fulfil it. I’ve loved doing Pre-Fall.” rather than being hard and stiff, it is soft and freeing.”
her iPhone to offer photographic proof. “And the picture months. She also has a swimwear line, available in Everything seems to be happening at once for Ilincic, It’s something she has wanted for her own designs
London exclusively at Harvey Nichols, and is working on but that’s OK with her. “I think it was quite timely since the days when she collected and wore vintage
a bag collection. And this season, after her highly for all those things to happen to me now,” she says clothes. “They came corseted or finished in an
“it’s Just fascinating successful collaboration with the Whistles chain, she thoughtfully, “because I’m in the right place. As a young old-fashioned way. I used to wear something and think,
joined Debenhams’ new Edition team, alongside designer, it’s always about being different and new, but ‘Gosh, it’s so beautiful, but wouldn’t it be nice
the way that nature Jonathan Saunders, Preen and Jonathan Kelsey. after a while, that’s not your message any more and you if it was comfortable, too?’” she says, laughing.
miXes coLour. no human Perhaps that’s why there’s a new, palpable confidence have to get to the next level. Then it’s about how to make Her fascination with modernist architecture has also
about this designer. Here is a woman who has the those ideas work in the real world, how to make them fed into this desire. “I’m attracted to the whole process of
mind can match it” self-assurance to say she doesn’t need a muse, or even a last, how to make them timeless.” Or as Bridget architecture. I mean, how do you actually build an
particular image, to inspire her. All she needs is herself. Cosgrave, Fashion and Buying Director at Matches, puts effortless place, a spacey building, without many walls? I
doesn’t do the sunset justice. Those are all the colours in “What is most important to me is to feel our time,” she it, “Roksanda has really perfected her fit while hitting the love that type of brutalism, which is interpreted in a
that collection: orange and purple, going to silver... That says. “So rather than starting with, say, the sun on a late right price point. It’s a winning formula.” completely modern way. That’s something I also try and
was my palette right in front of me.” summer’s day, what is more important Anita Barr, Womenswear Buying Director for do in my garments.” She shows me the toile of a dress to
With A/W 11 in its final stages, the studio is now is to feel what a woman wants on that day. What are Selfridges, also feels Ilincic’s time is now and has brought be covered first in hard metal hoops and later smothered
decorated with a new palette – fabrics in burning red, the needs of the modern woman?’’ the designer to the store this season. “Her Spring/ in Swarovski pearls. “It’s that same architectural
burgundy, roseberry, dark red wine and rust, as well as There are some powerful modern women who feel Summer 2011 collection really resonated principle. In Pre-Fall, you’ll see a beautiful, delicate lace
the eye-popping blue. “It’s all about getting the right she is answering that question perfectly. Women such as with our buying team,” says Barr. “Some pieces were dress held by very harsh, unpolished metal straps,” she
shade,” says Ilincic, “shades that sit beautifully against Michelle Obama, who wore head-to-toe Ilincic for shorter and more wearable, but the jewel tones and says. “Or I’ll use hard industrial zips to contrast against
each other, or are clashing against each other in a way the Chinese President’s first visit to the US last month. silk fabrics ensured the elegance wasn’t lost at all. soft silk. I think it brings a certain modernity to a
that makes you excited, or at least makes you feel “It was a big honour, especially as Michelle Obama I can’t wait to see her vision for Autumn/Winter.” garment, an edge.”
something. I love colour. I think that comes with people has such great style and is known for choosing and Ilincic admits the recent recession taught her a lot. “It Suddenly, the view from this room makes sense.
brought up in the sun. The colours in Serbia are bright, supporting many young designers, unlike other women just made me really concentrate on doing things
and when the sun shines they’re even brighter.” who’ve been in her place,” says Ilincic, smiling. “So in the best possible way without even thinking of too Roksanda Ilincic is showing her A/W 11 collection
So strong is this love of colour that sometimes Ilincic to not just be chosen by her but chosen for a big and much artistic experimentation, which is what I maybe today at 12.45pm in SW1. Stockists: Harvey
likes to present a garment with what she calls special occasion… obviously it was amazing.” would have done before,” she says. “But suddenly, Nichols, Matches, Selfridges, net-a-porter.com
Meanwhile, her Pre-Fall 2011 collection is being it was about the quality and pushing what you’re
Kate Finnigan is Style Director of Stella
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