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Life	
  on	
  the	
  Line	
  
	
  
Let's	
  face	
  it;	
  making	
  it	
  in	
  the	
  restaurant	
  business	
  is	
  a	
  lot	
  harder	
  these	
  days.	
  
Customers	
  are	
  savvier	
  (hence,	
  more	
  demanding)	
  than	
  ever,	
  and	
  with	
  the	
  
economy	
  under	
  the	
  weather,	
  they're	
  also	
  spending	
  a	
  lot	
  more	
  time	
  in	
  their	
  
own	
  kitchens.	
  And	
  forget	
  about	
  all	
  the	
  diet	
  restrictions	
  and	
  calorie-­‐
counting	
  going	
  on—it's	
  a	
  challenge	
  for	
  any	
  chef	
  to	
  cook	
  just	
  the	
  way	
  he	
  or	
  
she	
  wants	
  to.	
  However,	
  as	
  Matt	
  Pressler,	
  chef-­‐owner	
  of	
  Matador	
  
Restaurante	
  in	
  Wayne,	
  PA	
  has	
  figured	
  out,	
  if	
  you're	
  willing	
  to	
  adapt	
  a	
  bit,	
  
chefs	
  and	
  customers	
  can	
  have	
  it	
  all:	
  creative,	
  health-­‐conscious	
  food;	
  
affordable	
  prices,	
  lick-­‐your-­‐lips	
  libations	
  and	
  the	
  pleasure	
  of	
  not	
  having	
  to	
  
do	
  the	
  dishes.	
  Certainly,	
  it	
  helps	
  if	
  you're	
  a	
  fan	
  of	
  Spanish-­‐Mexican	
  cuisine,	
  
robust	
  riojas,	
  tempranillos	
  and	
  tequila,	
  a	
  culinary	
  cocktail	
  guaranteed	
  to	
  
deliver	
  a	
  real	
  pop	
  to	
  your	
  palate.	
  But,	
  if	
  you're	
  not	
  quite	
  sure	
  what	
  makes	
  
this	
  combination	
  so	
  special,	
  it's	
  a	
  safe	
  bet	
  that	
  Chef	
  Pressler	
  will	
  change	
  
your	
  mind.	
  So	
  pour	
  yourself	
  one	
  of	
  the	
  above,	
  keep	
  reading,	
  and	
  get	
  to	
  
                                                                            know	
  a	
  little	
  bit	
  about	
  this	
  
                                                                            pro-­‐soccer	
  player	
  turned	
  chef	
  
                                                                            and	
  his	
  passion	
  for	
  cooking.	
  	
  	
  	
  
                                                                            	
  
                                                                            What	
  is	
  your	
  culinary	
  
                                                                            background?	
  
                                                                            I'm	
  one	
  of	
  those	
  chefs	
  that	
  
                                                                            took	
  a	
  circuitous	
  route	
  to	
  the	
  
                                                                            kitchen.	
  My	
  first	
  restaurant	
  
                                                                            job	
  was	
  bartending,	
  during	
  
                                                                            college.	
  One	
  night,	
  the	
  
                                                                            kitchen	
  was	
  short	
  on	
  staff,	
  
                                                                            and	
  I	
  was	
  called	
  in	
  to	
  help.	
  I	
  
                                                                            had	
  cooked	
  plenty	
  of	
  things	
  
                                                                            as	
  a	
  kid—pancakes	
  were	
  my	
  
                                                                            specialty,	
  and	
  also	
  marinated	
  
chicken,	
  seared	
  then	
  finished	
  in	
  the	
  oven	
  with	
  a	
  French-­‐Italian	
  dressing	
  
glaze—and	
  had	
  natural	
  ability	
  and	
  interest.	
  Management	
  noticed,	
  and	
  
decided	
  to	
  leave	
  me	
  in	
  the	
  kitchen.	
  It	
  was	
  a	
  complete	
  departure	
  from	
  the	
  
pro-­‐soccer	
  and	
  physical	
  therapy	
  path	
  I	
  had	
  started	
  walking	
  down.	
  	
  
	
  
Who	
  has	
  influenced	
  your	
  cooking	
  the	
  most?	
  	
  
For	
  me,	
  it's	
  less	
  about	
  having	
  a	
  culinary	
  mentor,	
  than	
  about	
  having	
  
"operations"	
  mentors	
  who	
  taught	
  me	
  the	
  ins	
  and	
  outs	
  of	
  actually	
  running	
  a	
  
kitchen.	
  My	
  passion	
  for	
  cooking	
  is	
  something	
  that	
  has	
  always	
  been	
  stirred	
  
by	
  ingredients	
  first,	
  rather	
  than	
  the	
  final	
  product.	
  Traveling	
  to	
  Italy	
  and	
  
Spain,	
  and	
  seeing	
  the	
  farms	
  and	
  the	
  freshness	
  of	
  the	
  produce	
  and	
  the	
  
meats…	
  that	
  has	
  been	
  my	
  most	
  powerful	
  muse.	
  I	
  am	
  going	
  back	
  to	
  Spain	
  
at	
  the	
  end	
  of	
  this	
  year	
  and	
  I	
  can't	
  wait.	
  	
  
	
  
How	
  would	
  you	
  describe	
  the	
  cuisine	
  at	
  Matador?	
  	
  
Authentic	
  Mexican-­‐Spanish—both	
  of	
  these	
  cuisines	
  have	
  an	
  incredible	
  
range	
  of	
  of	
  ingredients	
  that	
  can	
  be	
  paired	
  in	
  a	
  number	
  of	
  combinations	
  
that	
  make	
  each	
  dish	
  taste	
  totally	
  new.	
  For	
  instance,	
  simply	
  switching	
  out	
  
an	
  ancho	
  chili	
  for	
  a	
  guajillo	
  pepper	
  makes	
  an	
  enormous	
  difference.	
  	
  
	
  
How	
  do	
  you	
  explain	
  the	
  differences	
  and	
  similarities	
  in	
  the	
  cuisine?	
  	
  
That's	
  not	
  too	
  tough…	
  both	
  are	
  similar	
  due	
  to	
  the	
  consistent	
  presence	
  of	
  
rice	
  and	
  beans,	
  and	
  garlic,	
  along	
  with	
  overall	
  earthy	
  and	
  smoky	
  overtones.	
  
But	
  the	
  differences	
  are	
  more	
  noticeable:	
  Mexican	
  uses	
  all	
  fresh	
  meats,	
  
nothing	
  cured;	
  and	
  more	
  fresh	
  peppers,	
  rather	
  than	
  dried.	
  Spanish	
  dishes	
  
are	
  richer	
  and	
  more	
  subtle…there's	
  no	
  fast	
  rush	
  or	
  sting	
  of	
  heat,	
  but	
  rather	
  
a	
  rounder,	
  more	
  blended	
  flavor.	
  Plus,	
  Spanish	
  chefs	
  enjoy	
  using	
  dried	
  fruits,	
  
nuts	
  and	
  preserves.	
  And,	
  there's	
  no	
  cilantro	
  in	
  Spanish	
  cuisine.	
  	
  	
  	
  
	
  
What	
  menu	
  items	
  best	
  exemplify	
  each	
  cuisine?	
  
For	
  the	
  Mexican	
  side	
  of	
  things,	
  I'd	
  have	
  to	
  say	
  the	
  tequila-­‐infused	
  Jalapeño	
  
Relleno	
  or	
  Poblano	
  Mole;	
  definitely	
  it's	
  the	
  paella	
  or	
  octopus	
  with	
  potatoes,	
  
hot	
  paprika on	
  the	
  Spanish	
  offerings.	
  	
  
	
  
How	
  does	
  what	
  you	
  serve	
  differ	
  from	
  what	
  you	
  would	
  serve	
  if	
  you	
  
weren't	
  worried	
  about	
  customers'	
  tastes	
  and	
  budgets?	
  	
  
I'd	
  be	
  more	
  adventurous	
  and	
  playful	
  with	
  ingredients—I'd	
  juxtapose	
  more	
  
things	
  such	
  as	
  cherries	
  and	
  habeneros,	
  coffee	
  and	
  rice.	
  Or	
  how	
  about	
  
roasted	
  garlic	
  ice	
  cream…	
  Other	
  lesser-­‐used,	
  hard	
  to	
  find/	
  pricier	
  
ingredients	
  too,	
  such	
  as	
  roe	
  and	
  eel,	
  that	
  I	
  can't	
  build	
  into	
  the	
  budget	
  now,	
  
based	
  on	
  our	
  price	
  point.	
  Even	
  our	
  most	
  "exotic"	
  dishes	
  are	
  geared	
  toward	
  
a	
  more	
  conservative,	
  suburban	
  palette.	
  It	
  has	
  always	
  surprised	
  and	
  
confused	
  me,	
  that	
  Main	
  Line	
  customers	
  are	
  willing	
  to	
  try	
  new	
  things	
  in	
  the	
  
city,	
  and	
  pay	
  more	
  for	
  them,	
  than	
  here	
  in	
  the	
  suburbs.	
  	
  	
  
	
  
Which	
  three	
  cooking	
  gadgets	
  or	
  tools	
  are	
  your	
  favorites?	
  	
  
I	
  have	
  lots	
  of	
  favorites,	
  but	
  the	
  lava	
  rock	
  mortar	
  and	
  pestle,	
  my	
  chef's	
  
knife—a	
  6-­‐inch	
  hammered	
  metal	
  Shun—and	
  my	
  sous	
  vide	
  machine.	
  Got	
  to	
  
have	
  that	
  for	
  our	
  chicken...	
  
	
  
What	
  are	
  some	
  of	
  the	
  essential	
  characteristics	
  of	
  a	
  chef	
  who	
  is	
  going	
  to	
  
shake	
  up	
  the	
  world?	
  
I	
  think	
  No.1	
  is	
  a	
  strong	
  imagination.	
  It’s	
  hard	
  to	
  be	
  creative	
  if	
  you	
  can’t	
  
imagine	
  an	
  ingredient’s	
  flavor	
  during	
  preparation	
  or	
  even	
  when	
  you’re	
  
daydreaming	
  about	
  creating	
  a	
  dish.	
  All	
  chefs	
  need	
  to	
  have	
  a	
  high	
  respect	
  
for	
  ingredients	
  and	
  an	
  ability	
  to	
  maintain	
  a	
  food’s	
  integrity	
  (and	
  flavor)	
  
through	
  the	
  storing	
  and	
  cooking	
  process,	
  but	
  I	
  think	
  consistency	
  is	
  one	
  of	
  
the	
  greatest	
  measures—anyone	
  can	
  make	
  something	
  good	
  once.	
  	
  However,	
  
like	
  any	
  artist,	
  it’s	
  the	
  passion	
  (and	
  skill)	
  to	
  stick	
  to	
  your	
  ethics	
  while	
  
translating	
  your	
  vision	
  to	
  the	
  customer	
  that	
  pushes	
  chefs	
  to	
  the	
  top.	
  
	
  	
  
Go-­‐to	
  reference:	
  	
  
The	
  Spanish	
  Table	
  by	
  Steve	
  Winston	
  has	
  a	
  lot	
  of	
  history	
  and	
  authenticity.	
  
Most	
  of	
  the	
  other	
  cookbooks	
  that	
  I	
  have,	
  I	
  read	
  for	
  brainstorming,	
  not	
  for	
  
recipes.	
  They	
  can	
  inspire	
  me	
  to	
  get	
  out	
  of	
  a	
  rut.	
  	
  
	
  
What	
  is	
  your	
  favorite	
  music	
  to	
  play	
  in	
  the	
  kitchen?	
  	
  
Definitely	
  mood	
  dependent…it	
  can	
  range	
  anywhere	
  from	
  	
  classic	
  rock	
  to	
  
Frank	
  Sinatra.	
  I	
  also	
  have	
  to	
  share	
  the	
  music	
  decision-­‐making	
  with	
  the	
  guys	
  
on	
  the	
  line,	
  so	
  it	
  depends	
  on	
  their	
  mood	
  too.	
  	
  
	
  
Which	
  are	
  the	
  most	
  over/underrated	
  seasonings?	
  	
  
Black	
  pepper.	
  It's	
  a	
  completely	
  flat	
  layer.	
  Underrated	
  would	
  be	
  adobo	
  
seasoning,	
  which	
  is	
  great	
  for	
  adding	
  flavor	
  to	
  meat,	
  poultry	
  and	
  fish.	
  Garlic	
  
is	
  pretty	
  overrated,	
  only	
  because	
  it	
  is	
  used	
  incorrectly	
  too	
  often...not	
  
roasted	
  properly,	
  not	
  chopped	
  properly,	
  added	
  to	
  a	
  dish	
  at	
  the	
  wrong	
  time.	
  
All	
  of	
  this	
  can	
  make	
  a	
  dish	
  taste	
  too	
  bitter	
  or	
  too	
  hot.	
  Cardamom	
  is	
  
underrated—it's	
  perfect	
  for	
  both	
  sweet	
  or	
  savory	
  dishes,	
  with	
  its	
  earthy	
  
flavor	
  and	
  aroma.	
  
 
Salt	
  on	
  the	
  tables,	
  yes	
  or	
  no?	
  	
  
NO.	
  Also,	
  it	
  would	
  be	
  good	
  for	
  diners	
  to	
  know	
  that	
  when	
  a	
  chef,	
  well	
  at	
  
least	
  this	
  one,	
  puts	
  a	
  lemon	
  on	
  the	
  plate,	
  it	
  is	
  meant	
  to	
  be	
  used.	
  The	
  
combination	
  of	
  salt	
  and	
  saliva	
  helps	
  circulate	
  a	
  food's	
  flavor	
  over	
  your	
  
tongue.	
  This	
  is	
  another	
  reason	
  why	
  you	
  should	
  try	
  all	
  the	
  components	
  of	
  a	
  
dish	
  together.	
  It	
  will	
  give	
  you	
  the	
  chef's	
  whole	
  vision,	
  which	
  is	
  especially	
  in	
  
ethnic	
  dishes,	
  is	
  about	
  texture,	
  flavor	
  AND	
  color.	
  	
  
	
  
Is	
  there	
  a	
  guilty	
  secret—something	
  canned,	
  something	
  wholly	
  
unsophisticated—in	
  your	
  arsenal	
  of	
  ingredients?	
  	
  
Well...yes.	
  Canned	
  corn	
  fungus;	
  it's	
  too	
  hard	
  to	
  get	
  in	
  fresh,	
  and	
  Uncle	
  
Ben's	
  long-­‐grain	
  rice.	
  A	
  medium	
  grain	
  is	
  more	
  authentic,	
  so	
  it	
  IS	
  kind	
  of	
  a	
  
culinary	
  sin.	
  We	
  do	
  at	
  least	
  crack	
  the	
  grains	
  though.	
  I	
  don't	
  use	
  in	
  our	
  paella	
  
though.	
  For	
  that	
  we	
  use	
  calasparra	
  rice,	
  or	
  bomba.	
  These	
  suck	
  about	
  2/3	
  
more	
  liquid	
  in,	
  which	
  builds	
  more	
  flavor.)	
  	
  
	
  
Which	
  item	
  in	
  your	
  home	
  fridge	
  would	
  you	
  least	
  like	
  to	
  cop	
  to?	
  	
  
SpaghettiOs	
  
	
  
Is	
  there	
  a	
  food	
  you	
  can’t	
  bring	
  yourself	
  to	
  eat?	
  	
  
Well,	
  there's	
  so	
  many	
  great	
  foods	
  I	
  haven't	
  tried	
  yet,	
  I'm	
  pretty	
  certain	
  that	
  
I	
  don't	
  need	
  to	
  eat	
  flesh	
  or	
  live	
  bugs.	
  
	
  
You've	
  got	
  30	
  minutes	
  to	
  cook	
  a	
  nice	
  meal;	
  what	
  would	
  you	
  cook?	
  	
  
Hmmm,	
  how	
  does	
  rack	
  of	
  lamb	
  with	
  lobster-­‐loaded	
  rice,	
  drizzled	
  with	
  beet,	
  
melon	
  and	
  guajillo	
  pepper	
  reduction	
  sound?	
  The	
  bright,	
  pinkish-­‐red	
  will	
  
add	
  visual	
  interest	
  and	
  the	
  juicy,	
  sweet-­‐tart	
  juices	
  and	
  the	
  fruit	
  will	
  cut	
  
through	
  fatty	
  flavors	
  of	
  the	
  lamb	
  as	
  well	
  as	
  pull	
  out	
  the	
  lobster's	
  sweet-­‐
salty	
  essence.	
  	
  
	
  
How	
  has	
  being	
  a	
  chef-­‐owner	
  changed	
  the	
  way	
  you	
  cook?	
  	
  
There	
  is	
  a	
  lot	
  more	
  stress	
  and	
  pressure	
  to	
  perform	
  when	
  you're	
  anxious	
  
about	
  selling	
  and	
  not	
  wasting	
  what	
  you	
  prepare.	
  It	
  takes	
  a	
  bit	
  of	
  the	
  
spontaneity	
  and	
  innovation	
  out	
  of	
  planning	
  a	
  special.	
  You	
  really	
  have	
  to	
  be	
  
conservative	
  in	
  choosing	
  ingredients.	
  However,	
  this	
  has	
  helped	
  me	
  become	
  
more	
  focused.	
  My	
  mindset	
  is	
  always,	
  "Every	
  dish	
  matters."	
  	
  
What	
  ingredient/s	
  can't	
  you	
  live	
  without?	
  	
  
Onions,	
  guajillo	
  peppers	
  and	
  garlic	
  	
  
	
  
When	
  entertaining	
  with	
  family	
  and	
  friends,	
  are	
  you	
  a	
  "group"	
  
participant	
  or	
  do	
  you	
  start	
  to	
  take	
  control?	
  
I	
  generally	
  aim	
  to	
  be	
  in	
  the	
  background	
  and	
  not	
  hover	
  around	
  the	
  food	
  as	
  
its	
  being	
  prepared.	
  It's	
  important	
  for	
  me	
  to	
  not	
  be	
  a	
  chef	
  when	
  I'm	
  out.	
  It's	
  
not	
  about	
  food	
  at	
  that	
  point;	
  it's	
  about	
  the	
  people	
  preparing	
  the	
  food	
  and	
  
creating	
  a	
  social	
  experience.	
  	
  
	
  
What	
  has	
  been	
  your	
  greatest	
  culinary	
  conquest?	
  	
  
Matador—the	
  combination	
  of	
  running	
  the	
  restaurant	
  and	
  being	
  behind	
  the	
  
line.	
  	
  
	
  
What	
  would	
  you	
  be	
  your	
  fantasy	
  restaurant?	
  	
  
A	
  restaurant	
  right	
  on	
  the	
  beach	
  where	
  you	
  could	
  build	
  ground	
  ovens	
  to	
  
bake	
  fish	
  and	
  cook	
  paellas	
  all	
  day	
  on	
  driftwood.	
  People	
  are	
  more	
  humble	
  at	
  
the	
  beach,	
  more	
  in	
  relation	
  to	
  the	
  earth	
  and	
  the	
  larger	
  world	
  around	
  them.	
  
This	
  makes	
  them	
  more	
  appreciative	
  about	
  what	
  they're	
  eating.	
  	
  
	
  
Name	
  three	
  things	
  in	
  your	
  refrigerator	
  right	
  now...	
  	
  
Skim	
  milk,	
  pizzelles,	
  Chiuahua	
  cheese,	
  bell	
  peppers,	
  (a	
  variety	
  of)	
  fig	
  jam	
  
and	
  some	
  questionable	
  leftovers.	
  	
  
	
  
…	
  in	
  your	
  summer	
  garden?	
  
Tomatoes	
  and	
  hot	
  peppers	
  
	
  
Worst	
  kitchen	
  disaster?	
  	
  
One	
  of	
  my	
  guys	
  had	
  the	
  large	
  cheese	
  grater	
  attachment	
  on	
  a	
  60-­‐qt	
  Hobart	
  
floor	
  mixer,	
  and	
  he	
  put	
  his	
  hand	
  in	
  to	
  get	
  the	
  last	
  bit	
  of	
  cheese	
  out	
  while	
  
the	
  mixer	
  was	
  still	
  on	
  high.	
  His	
  finger	
  was	
  no	
  match	
  for	
  the	
  blades.	
  	
  
	
  
What	
  motto	
  or	
  advice	
  do	
  you	
  live	
  by	
  whether	
  in	
  the	
  kitchen	
  or	
  out?	
  	
  
Do	
  it	
  right	
  the	
  first	
  time,	
  preparation	
  is	
  everything,	
  and	
  haste	
  makes	
  waste.	
  
	
  
Matador	
  Restaurante,	
  110	
  N.	
  Wayne	
  Ave.,	
  Wayne,	
  PA	
  19087;	
  (610)	
  688-­‐6282,	
  
www.matadorrestaurante.com,	
  Facebook	
  	
  

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Chef Q+A: Matt Pressler, Matador Restaurante

  • 1. Life  on  the  Line     Let's  face  it;  making  it  in  the  restaurant  business  is  a  lot  harder  these  days.   Customers  are  savvier  (hence,  more  demanding)  than  ever,  and  with  the   economy  under  the  weather,  they're  also  spending  a  lot  more  time  in  their   own  kitchens.  And  forget  about  all  the  diet  restrictions  and  calorie-­‐ counting  going  on—it's  a  challenge  for  any  chef  to  cook  just  the  way  he  or   she  wants  to.  However,  as  Matt  Pressler,  chef-­‐owner  of  Matador   Restaurante  in  Wayne,  PA  has  figured  out,  if  you're  willing  to  adapt  a  bit,   chefs  and  customers  can  have  it  all:  creative,  health-­‐conscious  food;   affordable  prices,  lick-­‐your-­‐lips  libations  and  the  pleasure  of  not  having  to   do  the  dishes.  Certainly,  it  helps  if  you're  a  fan  of  Spanish-­‐Mexican  cuisine,   robust  riojas,  tempranillos  and  tequila,  a  culinary  cocktail  guaranteed  to   deliver  a  real  pop  to  your  palate.  But,  if  you're  not  quite  sure  what  makes   this  combination  so  special,  it's  a  safe  bet  that  Chef  Pressler  will  change   your  mind.  So  pour  yourself  one  of  the  above,  keep  reading,  and  get  to   know  a  little  bit  about  this   pro-­‐soccer  player  turned  chef   and  his  passion  for  cooking.           What  is  your  culinary   background?   I'm  one  of  those  chefs  that   took  a  circuitous  route  to  the   kitchen.  My  first  restaurant   job  was  bartending,  during   college.  One  night,  the   kitchen  was  short  on  staff,   and  I  was  called  in  to  help.  I   had  cooked  plenty  of  things   as  a  kid—pancakes  were  my   specialty,  and  also  marinated   chicken,  seared  then  finished  in  the  oven  with  a  French-­‐Italian  dressing   glaze—and  had  natural  ability  and  interest.  Management  noticed,  and   decided  to  leave  me  in  the  kitchen.  It  was  a  complete  departure  from  the   pro-­‐soccer  and  physical  therapy  path  I  had  started  walking  down.      
  • 2. Who  has  influenced  your  cooking  the  most?     For  me,  it's  less  about  having  a  culinary  mentor,  than  about  having   "operations"  mentors  who  taught  me  the  ins  and  outs  of  actually  running  a   kitchen.  My  passion  for  cooking  is  something  that  has  always  been  stirred   by  ingredients  first,  rather  than  the  final  product.  Traveling  to  Italy  and   Spain,  and  seeing  the  farms  and  the  freshness  of  the  produce  and  the   meats…  that  has  been  my  most  powerful  muse.  I  am  going  back  to  Spain   at  the  end  of  this  year  and  I  can't  wait.       How  would  you  describe  the  cuisine  at  Matador?     Authentic  Mexican-­‐Spanish—both  of  these  cuisines  have  an  incredible   range  of  of  ingredients  that  can  be  paired  in  a  number  of  combinations   that  make  each  dish  taste  totally  new.  For  instance,  simply  switching  out   an  ancho  chili  for  a  guajillo  pepper  makes  an  enormous  difference.       How  do  you  explain  the  differences  and  similarities  in  the  cuisine?     That's  not  too  tough…  both  are  similar  due  to  the  consistent  presence  of   rice  and  beans,  and  garlic,  along  with  overall  earthy  and  smoky  overtones.   But  the  differences  are  more  noticeable:  Mexican  uses  all  fresh  meats,   nothing  cured;  and  more  fresh  peppers,  rather  than  dried.  Spanish  dishes   are  richer  and  more  subtle…there's  no  fast  rush  or  sting  of  heat,  but  rather   a  rounder,  more  blended  flavor.  Plus,  Spanish  chefs  enjoy  using  dried  fruits,   nuts  and  preserves.  And,  there's  no  cilantro  in  Spanish  cuisine.           What  menu  items  best  exemplify  each  cuisine?   For  the  Mexican  side  of  things,  I'd  have  to  say  the  tequila-­‐infused  Jalapeño   Relleno  or  Poblano  Mole;  definitely  it's  the  paella  or  octopus  with  potatoes,   hot  paprika on  the  Spanish  offerings.       How  does  what  you  serve  differ  from  what  you  would  serve  if  you   weren't  worried  about  customers'  tastes  and  budgets?     I'd  be  more  adventurous  and  playful  with  ingredients—I'd  juxtapose  more   things  such  as  cherries  and  habeneros,  coffee  and  rice.  Or  how  about   roasted  garlic  ice  cream…  Other  lesser-­‐used,  hard  to  find/  pricier   ingredients  too,  such  as  roe  and  eel,  that  I  can't  build  into  the  budget  now,   based  on  our  price  point.  Even  our  most  "exotic"  dishes  are  geared  toward   a  more  conservative,  suburban  palette.  It  has  always  surprised  and  
  • 3. confused  me,  that  Main  Line  customers  are  willing  to  try  new  things  in  the   city,  and  pay  more  for  them,  than  here  in  the  suburbs.         Which  three  cooking  gadgets  or  tools  are  your  favorites?     I  have  lots  of  favorites,  but  the  lava  rock  mortar  and  pestle,  my  chef's   knife—a  6-­‐inch  hammered  metal  Shun—and  my  sous  vide  machine.  Got  to   have  that  for  our  chicken...     What  are  some  of  the  essential  characteristics  of  a  chef  who  is  going  to   shake  up  the  world?   I  think  No.1  is  a  strong  imagination.  It’s  hard  to  be  creative  if  you  can’t   imagine  an  ingredient’s  flavor  during  preparation  or  even  when  you’re   daydreaming  about  creating  a  dish.  All  chefs  need  to  have  a  high  respect   for  ingredients  and  an  ability  to  maintain  a  food’s  integrity  (and  flavor)   through  the  storing  and  cooking  process,  but  I  think  consistency  is  one  of   the  greatest  measures—anyone  can  make  something  good  once.    However,   like  any  artist,  it’s  the  passion  (and  skill)  to  stick  to  your  ethics  while   translating  your  vision  to  the  customer  that  pushes  chefs  to  the  top.       Go-­‐to  reference:     The  Spanish  Table  by  Steve  Winston  has  a  lot  of  history  and  authenticity.   Most  of  the  other  cookbooks  that  I  have,  I  read  for  brainstorming,  not  for   recipes.  They  can  inspire  me  to  get  out  of  a  rut.       What  is  your  favorite  music  to  play  in  the  kitchen?     Definitely  mood  dependent…it  can  range  anywhere  from    classic  rock  to   Frank  Sinatra.  I  also  have  to  share  the  music  decision-­‐making  with  the  guys   on  the  line,  so  it  depends  on  their  mood  too.       Which  are  the  most  over/underrated  seasonings?     Black  pepper.  It's  a  completely  flat  layer.  Underrated  would  be  adobo   seasoning,  which  is  great  for  adding  flavor  to  meat,  poultry  and  fish.  Garlic   is  pretty  overrated,  only  because  it  is  used  incorrectly  too  often...not   roasted  properly,  not  chopped  properly,  added  to  a  dish  at  the  wrong  time.   All  of  this  can  make  a  dish  taste  too  bitter  or  too  hot.  Cardamom  is   underrated—it's  perfect  for  both  sweet  or  savory  dishes,  with  its  earthy   flavor  and  aroma.  
  • 4.   Salt  on  the  tables,  yes  or  no?     NO.  Also,  it  would  be  good  for  diners  to  know  that  when  a  chef,  well  at   least  this  one,  puts  a  lemon  on  the  plate,  it  is  meant  to  be  used.  The   combination  of  salt  and  saliva  helps  circulate  a  food's  flavor  over  your   tongue.  This  is  another  reason  why  you  should  try  all  the  components  of  a   dish  together.  It  will  give  you  the  chef's  whole  vision,  which  is  especially  in   ethnic  dishes,  is  about  texture,  flavor  AND  color.       Is  there  a  guilty  secret—something  canned,  something  wholly   unsophisticated—in  your  arsenal  of  ingredients?     Well...yes.  Canned  corn  fungus;  it's  too  hard  to  get  in  fresh,  and  Uncle   Ben's  long-­‐grain  rice.  A  medium  grain  is  more  authentic,  so  it  IS  kind  of  a   culinary  sin.  We  do  at  least  crack  the  grains  though.  I  don't  use  in  our  paella   though.  For  that  we  use  calasparra  rice,  or  bomba.  These  suck  about  2/3   more  liquid  in,  which  builds  more  flavor.)       Which  item  in  your  home  fridge  would  you  least  like  to  cop  to?     SpaghettiOs     Is  there  a  food  you  can’t  bring  yourself  to  eat?     Well,  there's  so  many  great  foods  I  haven't  tried  yet,  I'm  pretty  certain  that   I  don't  need  to  eat  flesh  or  live  bugs.     You've  got  30  minutes  to  cook  a  nice  meal;  what  would  you  cook?     Hmmm,  how  does  rack  of  lamb  with  lobster-­‐loaded  rice,  drizzled  with  beet,   melon  and  guajillo  pepper  reduction  sound?  The  bright,  pinkish-­‐red  will   add  visual  interest  and  the  juicy,  sweet-­‐tart  juices  and  the  fruit  will  cut   through  fatty  flavors  of  the  lamb  as  well  as  pull  out  the  lobster's  sweet-­‐ salty  essence.       How  has  being  a  chef-­‐owner  changed  the  way  you  cook?     There  is  a  lot  more  stress  and  pressure  to  perform  when  you're  anxious   about  selling  and  not  wasting  what  you  prepare.  It  takes  a  bit  of  the   spontaneity  and  innovation  out  of  planning  a  special.  You  really  have  to  be   conservative  in  choosing  ingredients.  However,  this  has  helped  me  become   more  focused.  My  mindset  is  always,  "Every  dish  matters."    
  • 5. What  ingredient/s  can't  you  live  without?     Onions,  guajillo  peppers  and  garlic       When  entertaining  with  family  and  friends,  are  you  a  "group"   participant  or  do  you  start  to  take  control?   I  generally  aim  to  be  in  the  background  and  not  hover  around  the  food  as   its  being  prepared.  It's  important  for  me  to  not  be  a  chef  when  I'm  out.  It's   not  about  food  at  that  point;  it's  about  the  people  preparing  the  food  and   creating  a  social  experience.       What  has  been  your  greatest  culinary  conquest?     Matador—the  combination  of  running  the  restaurant  and  being  behind  the   line.       What  would  you  be  your  fantasy  restaurant?     A  restaurant  right  on  the  beach  where  you  could  build  ground  ovens  to   bake  fish  and  cook  paellas  all  day  on  driftwood.  People  are  more  humble  at   the  beach,  more  in  relation  to  the  earth  and  the  larger  world  around  them.   This  makes  them  more  appreciative  about  what  they're  eating.       Name  three  things  in  your  refrigerator  right  now...     Skim  milk,  pizzelles,  Chiuahua  cheese,  bell  peppers,  (a  variety  of)  fig  jam   and  some  questionable  leftovers.       …  in  your  summer  garden?   Tomatoes  and  hot  peppers     Worst  kitchen  disaster?     One  of  my  guys  had  the  large  cheese  grater  attachment  on  a  60-­‐qt  Hobart   floor  mixer,  and  he  put  his  hand  in  to  get  the  last  bit  of  cheese  out  while   the  mixer  was  still  on  high.  His  finger  was  no  match  for  the  blades.       What  motto  or  advice  do  you  live  by  whether  in  the  kitchen  or  out?     Do  it  right  the  first  time,  preparation  is  everything,  and  haste  makes  waste.     Matador  Restaurante,  110  N.  Wayne  Ave.,  Wayne,  PA  19087;  (610)  688-­‐6282,   www.matadorrestaurante.com,  Facebook