2. What is Pinewood Derby
The Race
For cub scouts and their parents & siblings too!
The Track
Most packs have their own set of wooden or aluminum racing tracks
Typically 3 or 4 cars run on each track lane at a time – called a “heat”
The electronic scoreboard at the finish line displays the heat results
Each car races in each of the lane – to neutralize lane instability
The Cars
BSA certified kits only
Add-ons can include weights, paint, decals, accessories within the BSA
guidelines
Winning (levels)
Top 3 in each Rank (Tigers, Wolf, Bears, Webelos I, II) get a trophy!!
Top 3 of each rank race for top 3 Pack positions
Top 3 in each pack race at Council level (April)
and beyond…
And losing
Scout must be present at the time of racing
Getting disqualified at inspection on impound night
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3. The Science Behind It
Momentum, gravity, slope/angle of the tracks, weight of the
car, friction, aerodynamics, balance.
What you start with:
A 7” x 1 ¾” pinewood block, 4 wheels, 4 axles
What you CANNOT change:
Slope of the tracks…its pre-built!
Gravity…sorry can’t do much about it on our planet (yet)
What you CAN change:
Car weight = momentum
Reduced friction = speed
Sleek smooth shape = aerodynamics
Balanced wheels = stability
That is why you add weights, make all moving parts smooth
and sand and sand and sand…
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4. Car weight = momentum
Maximum weight of fully assembled car can be 5 oz.
Weight types:
Low density metals = need more, takes lot of space
High density metals = need less, takes less space
Options:
Zinc – low density = need more, easily available (Michaels)
Steel – more density, cost effective, easily available (check your garage!)
Lead – higher density, poisonous (use gloves), cost effective, buy in hobby
stores
Tungsten – highest density, very costly, buy in hobby stores or online
Even the paint adds some weight! (0.01 oz. to 0.08 oz.)
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5. Car weight = momentum
What to weigh
Weigh all parts (car body, wheels, axles, accessories, additional weight)
before putting it together) – get it to 4.9 or 4.95 oz.
Even the paint adds some weight!
Where to weigh
Use a kitchen weigh scale that has ounce measurement
Take everything to a post office OR grocery store OR check with neighbors
OR get in touch with me
Where to put the weight
You can add/attach weights anywhere on or in the car body
Ensure the finished car does not exceed:
2 ¾” in width; 7” in length; about 5” in height
and bottom clearance is at least 3/8”
Some zinc weights are designed to fit under the car
(like ones in Michaels)
Weights must be firmly attached (no tape)
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6. Reduced friction = speed
The most friction comes from the wheels brushing against the axles
and the tracks
Nothing much can be done for the friction with the track
The axles have burr and crimp marks
Use a thin file to remove the burr under the axle (nail) head
Use the same file to remove the crimp marks
Then use a sand paper/cloth to even out
Recommend using steel polish for the extra speed
Test your work
Insert the wheel onto the axle, add some graphite
(only dry lubricant is permitted)
Hold the axle horizontally and give it a few spins
The wheel should spin freely for a few seconds
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7. Sleek, smooth shape = aerodynamics
Some friction comes from the car brushing against the air
Shape of the car
Go for designs that allow the air to disperse
Smoothness of the car surface
Fill the gaps and uneven areas with wood putty/filler – let it dry
Sand the car body with coarse and fine sand paper before applying the paint
Accessories
Choose accessories (cabin/cockpit, drivers, engines, etc.) that are rounded
Front of car
Do not make the front too pointy A-shaped or V-shaped as this will be a problem
with the starting device on the track
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8. Sleek, smooth shape = aerodynamics
Cross section (graph & chart) paper with inch markings works best –
plain and ruled paper are fine too
Mark the outline of the car’s wooden block and the axle positions on
the paper
Draw your design - side and top view
Front of car
Do not make the front too pointy A-shaped or V-shaped as this will be a
problem with the starting device on the track
Sharp tip can slip
Car body cannot
beyond starting line
exceed starting line
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9. Balanced wheels = stability
The track has a ridge in the middle – the guide strip
This keeps the cars from running off the track or into each other!
But if the wheels brush against this guide strip then it will slow the car down
Wobbly wheels can even brush against the car body itself
Maintain width of 1 ¾“ at axle slots where wheels are to be mounted
How to avoid this
Make sure the axles are straight
Make sure the axles are inserted at a perfect right angle (90 deg.)
After putting the wheels on, tap the axles in and close to the car body using a screw driver
and light hammer
Glue is not really needed, although it does secure the axles in place
Do NOT put glue until you are satisfied with the car and its alignment
Keep the car weight balanced just in front on the rear wheels
Make sure it is easy to tell the front side of the car
If the design is even – mark the front using a permanent marker
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10. Safety First or Last or Somewhere
Use safety glasses/googles during most of the work
Use dust mask when cutting, sanding, spray painting, etc.
Use gloves while handling lead weights and as appropriate
Ask older scouts about “the blood circle” from their whittling chip
experience
Get a parent to help with all power tools
whether running on mains supply and battery
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11. Tools
Use a clamping vise – to hold car body, drill, etc.
Use a rasp – for quick shaping
Use a file – for finer finishes to the shape
Use a T-square – for perfect right angles
Other tools: chisel, hammer, screw driver, coarse and fine sand paper
For the more enthusiast souls
Dremel has a range of tools and accessories useful for this and many
hobby project
Sanding belt
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12. Impound night & inspection
Test your car before impound night pack meeting (21st February)
The box to check the cars – max. width 2 ¾“; max length 7”
The weighing scale – max. 5 oz.
Clearance – At least 3/8”
Starting devices, washers, wheel bearings, bushings, change in axle
positions, loose parts, springs, oil lubricants are strictly prohibited
Official pinewood BSA wheels, axles, pinewood cars
(accessories can be of any solid material, plastic, metal, fiber glass,
other types of wood)
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13. See you at the finish line…
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Notes de l'éditeur
The track - picture of the trackThe carsWinning (levels)And losing
1. Wobbly wheels are not good for the racing cars and even other cars as it can get thrown off the track and bump into other cars causing a massive crash and damage2. We will re-run the heat in such situation but only if the cars can be fixed in a reasonable amount of time3. Make sure the glue does not run into the wheel bore
Both rasps and files come in different shapes – D, round, flat, etc.Rasp is a bit different from a file – there are individually teeth placed randomlyhttp://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/ContentView?pn=Chisels_Files&storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053Files and rasps are handy tools when it comes to smoothing and shaping. While some people use the terms interchangeably, there are distinct differences between files and rasps and each serves a different purpose. It is a common perception that files are best suited to metal applications while rasps are used only for wood, but this is not necessarily the case. In general, rasps are used for more aggressive work while files offer a slightly more refined finish. Of course, your selection will also depend on what grade and material you are working with and other factors as well. The large selection of available options can be a little intimidating, so consider the following questions as you seek to determine what file or rasp is right for you:What types of files are available?What types of rasps are available?What shapes do files and rasps come in?What do different grades indicate?What special features might be helpful?Files, Rasps, Shapes, Grades and UsageChoosing the right file or rasp depends largely on what material you're working with and how fine of a finish you need. In most cases, files and rasps serve as an intermediary step between rough sawing and finishing with sandpaper. Files and rasps can be used on wood, metal and plastic and may be used to sharpen mower blades and other tools, remove rust, deburr metal and more. Along with choosing a tool that has the best grade and configuration for the material you're working with, using the proper technique and keeping your tools clean during use is crucial to getting the job done right.Files: Files are characterized by parallel, diagonal rows of teeth that form ridges across the surface. Each of the sides is either cut, meaning that it has teeth, or uncut, meaning that it is smooth. Single-cut files have one set of teeth and are used to provide a somewhat smoother finish or create a sharp edge on knives, shears or saws. Double-cut files feature a second set of teeth that cut in the opposite direction and are used for more aggressive filing, shaping or removing rust from metal and smoothing wood. Curved-cut files are used for a variety of automotive applications, such as smoothing body panels. Rasp-cut files feature a series of individual teeth and are used primarily on wood. File lengths can range anywhere from 4" to 16" or longer and are usually available in increments of 2".Uncut edges are also called safe edgesUse light pressure when working with single-cut filesUse heavier pressure when working with double-cut filesCurved-cut files feature curved contours across the face of the fileCurved-cut files can also be used for working with plaster and fiberglassRasps: Unlike files, rasps have individual teeth that are often randomly placed to provide a faster, rougher cut. Use them to remove material quickly, particularly when working with wood. Wood rasps have a very coarse surface and are used primarily for quick removal of stock. Cabinet rasps come in handy for finer, more delicate work, such as creating a proper fit for mortise or tenon joints. Rasps tend to clog less frequently than files because of the way the teeth are designed and spaced.Horse rasps are used for working on horseshoesPatternmaker's cabinet rasps provide a smoother finishCabinet rasps can be used on wood of all types, leather or soft metalsShapes: Files and rasps come in several different shapes, each of which offers a unique set of advantages for different tasks. The chart below describes the most common shapes as well as what activities they're best suited for.ShapeDescriptionUsesFlat, Mill or HandFeatures straight edges and a flat surface with a series of parallel teeth.General tasksFlat files taper in width and thickness from the middle outwardMill files taper in width and thickness all the way throughHand files taper only in thickness and feature a square pointHalf-RoundFeatures both a flat face and a curved face.Concave surfaces, edges and holesFlat face can be used for filing flat surfacesCurved face is ideal for use on groovesRoundCircular design features teeth all the way around. Also called "rat-tail."Enlarging round openingsRemoving burrs from metalSquareFeatures four cut sides.Enlarging rectangular openingsTriangularFeatures two cut sides and one uncut side. Also called "taper" or "threesquare."Working on acute internal anglesSquaring cornersFiling groovesSharpening saw teeth and other toolsGrades: Files and rasps are both available in varying grades, or levels, of coarseness. File grades are often broken down into bastard cut, second cut or smooth cut. Bastard cut is the coarsest grade and is used to remove material quickly. Second cut can also be used for fast removal, though it provides a slightly smoother finish. Smooth cut features a fine grade that's ideal for finishing work and preparing surfaces for sanding. Rasps also come in a variety of grades, including bastard, cabinet and wood. In their case, however, bastard is the finest grade, with cabinet and wood rasps providing a coarser finish.In general, larger files and rasps are coarser than smaller ones, even if they have the same gradeSecond cut is sometimes referred to as medium cutCabinet cut is sometimes referred to as medium cut as wellCabinet- and wood-grade rasps remove material quicklyUsage and Care: As with all tools, proper care and technique is the key to safe and effective use. Choose the right combination of shape, size and grade for the project you're working on. When filing or rasping, push outward across the surface with a level of pressure appropriate for the material you're working with. Lift the tool at the end of the stroke and bring it back to the starting position before allowing it to touch the surface again. Working in only one direction will provide a higher quality finish and prevent the teeth from dulling too quickly. After a while, files will become clogged. Cleaning them with a wire brush or file card will help keep them in working order.Work in a well-ventilated area and use respiratory protection if necessaryRubbing chalk on the surface of a file or rasp can help prevent cloggingKeep files in protective sleeves or slotted racks to prevent them from scraping against each other when not in useFeaturesHandles: In most cases, rasps and files do not come with handles. Holding onto the bare tang can be uncomfortable, so you'll need to purchase a handle for each one. Look for ergonomic handles with rubberized grips to provide greater comfort. You can also purchase a universal handle, which features inserts that allow it to be used with different shapes.4-in-1 Tool: For maximum versatility, look for a multifaceted tool that allows you to tackle a number of different tasks. Some files are designed with both round and flat surfaces and with two different ends, one of which is a file while the other is a rasp.File Card: Keeping files and rasps clean is one of the keys to ensuring high-quality work. A file card is designed to get in between the teeth to clean out sawdust, metal shavings and other debris to keep your tools in proper working order.Diamond File: These files feature ground diamond particles, making them well suited to industrial applications. Use them when working on fiberglass, epoxy and other hard surfaces. Smaller diamond files will work well on glass, ceramic and various metals.