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From Our Roots
Community Food Assessment Report
                                   The People, Agriculture and Food of Gilliam, Morrow,
                                         Umatilla and Wheeler Counties, Oregon




                                         Community Action Program of East Central Oregon
                                              In cooperation with Oregon Food Bank and
                                             Resource Assistance for Rural Environments
THE ASSESSMENT TEAM

               PRIMARY AUTHORS AND RESEARCHERS

                         Karen Wagner, CAPECO

                    Katie Weaver, CAPECO and RARE



        CONTRIBUTING AUTHORS, RESEARCHERS AND EDITORS

          Alison Arnold, Columbia Blue Mountain RC&D and RARE

                Sarah Burford, Columbia Plateau Food Links

                  Cynthia Eardley, CAPECO and OCAC



                          COLLABORATORS

                         Paula Chavez, CAPECO

                  Sharon Thornberry, Oregon Food Bank

                  Wheeler County Local Food Committee




                                                                i
FOREWARD

When the first settlers came to Oregon they were amazed by the rich soil, abundant water supply and even
the islands of productivity in Oregon’s deserts. They were thrilled with the crops, fruits and berries they
were able to raise, the rich pastureland, as well as the streams teaming with fish and the bounty of wild
game available to feed a growing population. It would have been impossible for them to believe that
anyone could be hungry or food insecure in this land of plenty. It is incredible that hunger and food
insecurity abound in Oregon nearly two centuries later. In fact, many of the areas that seemed so bountiful
to those early settlers have the least access to food today.

Two years ago the Oregon Food Bank in partnership with University of Oregon Resource Assistance for
Rural Environments AmeriCorps program began to conduct community food assessments in some of
Oregon’s rural counties. Very few community food assessment efforts have been undertaken in rural
America with a county by county approach. The report you are about to read is a result of conversations
with the people who make Oregon’s rural communities and their food systems so very unique. These
reports are also a gift from a small group of very dedicated young people who have spent the last year
listening, learning and organizing. It is our sincere hope, that these reports and organizing efforts will help
Oregonians renew their vision and promise of the bountiful food system that amazed those early settlers.



                                                                                       Sharon Thornberry
                                                                            Community Resource Developer
                                                                                       Oregon Food Bank




                                                                                                             ii
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Beyond our main collaborators, we acknowledge the support of the many community members who
committed time and energy to the research, outreach, organizing and reviews of community food
expansion and this Assessment. In this abbreviated list we include local county governments, teachers,
and staff from agencies and organizations that serve the communities we visited, to farmers, gardeners,
farmers' market organizers, local food groups and individuals who care about the places they live in and
the health and well-being of their friends and neighbors. The Gilliam-Morrow-Umatilla Wheeler
Community Food Assessment is dedicated to the people of these Counties and the inspiration and hard
work they've undertaken for local food security and local food systems development




                                                                                                     iii
TABLE OF CONTENTS
THE ASSESSMENT TEAM ......................................................................................................................... i
FOREWARD ................................................................................................................................................ ii
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ........................................................................................................................... iii
TABLE OF CONTENTS ............................................................................................................................. iv
Executive Summary     From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture and Food of Gilliam, Morrow,
Umatilla and Wheeler Counties................................................................................................................... 1
INTRODUCTION ........................................................................................................................................ 2
Community Food Security ............................................................................................................................ 2
Community Food Assessment ...................................................................................................................... 2
Our Assessment ............................................................................................................................................ 3
About This Report......................................................................................................................................... 5
CHAPTER 1—THE FOODSHED ............................................................................................................... 6
CHAPTER 2—GILLIAM COUNTY .......................................................................................................... 7
   Introduction ............................................................................................................................................... 7
   People ........................................................................................................................................................ 8
   Agriculture .............................................................................................................................................. 10
   Food......................................................................................................................................................... 12
Conclusion .................................................................................................................................................. 16
Opportunities in Gilliam County................................................................................................................. 17
CHAPTER 3—MORROW COUNTY ....................................................................................................... 19
   Introduction ............................................................................................................................................. 19
   People ...................................................................................................................................................... 20
   Agriculture .............................................................................................................................................. 22
   Food......................................................................................................................................................... 24
Conclusion .................................................................................................................................................. 30
Opportunities in Morrow County................................................................................................................ 31
CHAPTER 4—UMATILLA COUNTY ..................................................................................................... 33
   Introduction ............................................................................................................................................. 33
   People ...................................................................................................................................................... 34
   Agriculture .............................................................................................................................................. 37
   Food......................................................................................................................................................... 40

                                                                                                                                                                 iv
Conclusion .................................................................................................................................................. 45
Opportunities in Umatilla County ............................................................................................................... 46
CHAPTER 5—WHEELER COUNTY ....................................................................................................... 48
   Introduction ............................................................................................................................................. 48
   People ...................................................................................................................................................... 49
   Agriculture .............................................................................................................................................. 51
   Food......................................................................................................................................................... 53
Conclusion .................................................................................................................................................. 57
Opportunities in Wheeler County ............................................................................................................... 58
CHAPTER 6—REGIONAL ASSESSMENT ............................................................................................ 60
   PEOPLE .................................................................................................................................................. 61
   AGRICULTURE ..................................................................................................................................... 62
   FOOD ...................................................................................................................................................... 65
CONCLUSION ........................................................................................................................................... 66
Opportunities in the Regional Foodshed .................................................................................................... 68
CHAPTER 7—DEVELOPMENT OF THE STUDY ................................................................................. 71
Data Source ................................................................................................................................................. 71
Methodology ............................................................................................................................................... 71
Limitations and Value of the Study ............................................................................................................ 71
glossary ....................................................................................................................................................... 72
WORKS CITED ......................................................................................................................................... 73
APPENDICES ............................................................................................................................................ 75




                                                                                                                                                                 v
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY FROM OUR ROOTS: THE PEOPLE, AGRICULTURE AND
FOOD OF GILLIAM, MORROW, UMATILLA AND WHEELER COUNTIES
Covering four east-central Oregon counties, Gilliam, Morrow, Umatilla and Wheeler, this Community Food
Assessment (CFA) From Our Roots, was ambitious and large-scale. It skimmed the surface of assets and
opportunities in the region (including a look across the Columbia River to the northern part of this foodshed).
The effort helps address ever-growing nutrition-related health problems, diminished rural agricultural
economies and food insecurity across the region. It is driven, in part, by the fact that the Community Action
Program of East Central Oregon (CAPECO), in partnership with the Oregon Food Bank, supplies emergency
food to regional residents here - over one million pounds in 2009 - a quantity that is growing, unsustainable
and almost unbelievable, considering the vast amounts of food grown here.

WHAT WE LOOKED FOR. This CFA rooted out opportunities to re-localize the food system , touching
briefly on natural resources, economic prosperity and diversity, historical and cultural wealth, community
health, market expansion, infrastructural supports, and resiliency. We used three criteria to explore food
security and opportunities: food access (how and where people can obtain local food); food availability (is it
grown, processed and distributed locally), and food affordability (given current economic realities, what would
people be willing and able to buy). What we discovered is laid out in this report to revolve around the
PEOPLE, the FARM economy, and the FOOD situation in each county.

OUR FINDINGS. Using surveys, facilitated workshops and conversations we discovered how diverse, and
bounteous this region is, as well as under-resourced and in need of specific, community-based activity, and
broad collaboration and vision around food system integration and development. Three of the four counties
are classified as frontier counties, complete with "food deserts". People with resources and transportation are
generally well-fed, but co-exist with pockets of under-nourished, hungry or potentially insecure individuals
and communities disadvantaged by the current trend of procuring food from distant sources and loss of local
opportunity. And while cash receipts to farmers are generally high, they are still earning less than they did in
the 1970's, affecting every aspect of this predominantly rural agricultural region. The top three identified needs
were for: 1) Expanded, more accessible and affordable year-round local food resources, including gardens,
farm stands and markets, emergency resources and retail options; 2) Increased education and skills around
growing, cooking, gardening, nutrition, shopping and hunting/harvesting (in that order) for all sectors of the
community; and 3) Strengthened community and regional networking, marketing and infrastructural
development.

OUTCOMES. From this initial exploration, two first-ever regional Food & Farm Guides were produced to
market and stimulate purchases from local growers. The food assessment team helped facilitate shared
purpose, and vision, and identify assets in each community, raising the capacity of individuals and groups to
take direct action on their own behalf. Each county received five to seven recommendations or
"Opportunities" that were similar but reflected specific needs, strengths and assets present their communities,
and food and farming systems. Next steps include the support of local champions and food groups, local
purchasing options, regional networks and action plans. All of which help to develop food awareness,
appropriate alternative local and regional production and marketing opportunities, food system infrastructure
and other synergistic local food projects. The hope is that this work will be reviewed, renewed and acted upon
in regular intervals by the residents of each County, leading to increased funding, resource development and
project implementation helping communities in this region move from surviving to thriving.

                     "Food is our common ground, a universal experience." - James Beard
                                                                                                         Page | 1

From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam, Morrow, Umatilla &Wheeler Counties, Oregon
our food system. This community food security
INTRODUCTION                                                   movement is working towards building strong
THE FOOD SYSTEM. The United States is                          and resilient food systems through innovative
one of the wealthiest countries in the world, yet              and diverse community partnerships.
accessing enough healthy, fresh food to meet
basic nutritional needs is a critical issue faced by           Community food security is defined as “all
millions of Americans. There are a number of                   citizens are able to obtain a safe, personally
reasons for food insecurity in the United States,              acceptable, nutritious diet through a sustainable
the primary causes being lack of employment                    food system that maximizes healthy choices,
opportunities, low wages and increases in the                  community self-reliance and equal access for
cost of living, energy and health care. But to                 everyone” (Hamm & Bellows, 2003). A food
truly understand food insecurity, one must                     system can be broadly described as all of the
recognize the vital role the structure of food                 processes involved with feeding people. It
system plays. Over the last 50 years our food                  includes growing, harvesting, processing,
system has become increasingly global in its                   distributing, obtaining, consuming and disposing
extent, leading to the industrialization and                   of food. These processes, in addition to the
consolidation of agriculture and all the                       social and cultural characteristics of a
components of our food delivery system, and the                community and relevant government policies,
decline of small, embedded local farms, ranches,               define a food system.
and the food facilities and infrastructure that
                                                               Food security exists when all people have
brings food from the field to the table. This
                                                               physical, social and economic access at all times
leaves Americans and their food supply
                                                               to sufficient, safe and nutritious food that meets
vulnerable to forces beyond their control. The
                                                               their dietary needs and food preferences for an
loss of vibrant, local food systems and the day-
                                                               active and healthy life via non-emergency
to-day reality of people’s inability to afford food
                                                               sources. It also means that food is produced,
have a significant impact on a secure,
                                                               processed and distributed in ways that respect
sustainable, safe food source - e.g. food security
                                                               and protect the environment and workers who
or insecurity - throughout the country.
                                                               produce it. Food insecurity is a lack of
Isolation and the lack of local food system                    sufficient food and proper nutrition, and covers a
infrastructure paired with persistent poverty and              broad spectrum of hunger-related feelings and
unemployment plague rural east-central Oregon                  behaviors, including fear of going hungry, and
and have made food insecurity a critical issue                 the resulting, often compromised choices people
faced by many people throughout Gilliam,                       make to meet basic food and health needs.
Morrow, Umatilla and Wheeler Counties.
                                                               COMMUNITY FOOD
COMMUNITY FOOD SECURITY                                        ASSESSMENT
Few people know where their food comes from,                   To overcome the narrow scope of conventional
the conditions under which it is grown and                     food security work, the Community Food
raised or how it gets to the supermarket shelves.              Assessment (CFA) has emerged as a research
While the disconnect between producers and                     method to provide a more holistic and
consumers continues to grow, many people                       comprehensive approach to understanding and
across the country are working towards creative,               improving food security at local and regional
localized solutions to the current problems with               levels. A Community Food Assessment is
                                                                                                    Page | 2

From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam, Morrow, Umatilla &Wheeler Counties, Oregon
defined as “a collaborative and participatory                  the movement toward a more localized, locally-
process that systematically examines a broad                   controlled and chosen food system.
range of community food issues and assets, so as
to inform change actions to make the community                 Recommendations that emerged for each county
more food secure” (Pothukuchi, Joseph, Burton,                 relate to the expansion of the following four
& Fisher, 2002).                                               elements of health, wealth, connections and
                                                               capacity-building.
A CFA tells the story of what is happening with
food in a community using varied and diverse                     In the long view, no nation is healthier than its
methods. A CFA can help highlight the                            children, or more prosperous than its farmers".
connections between the various sectors of a                                                      Harry Truman
food system including production, processing,
distribution, storage, consumption and disposal.
It is a powerful tool to explore a range of food               HEALTH. Our CFA revealed a great need to
system issues, to provide opportunities for broad              attend to health in all contexts. Nutritional data
community involvement and to create positive,                  showed that, regardless of age and income
lasting change.                                                levels, health trends are in declining, and in
                                                               particular, more obese and/or malnourished
One way to define the success of a CFA is the                  seniors and children, higher rates of diabetes,
degree to which it inspires the re-localization of             and other weight-related diseases prevalent in
the food and farming system, in a way that                     the region. People here have expressed interest
allows individuals and communities to                          in improving the health of themselves, their
participate and have more control over this basic              families and communities, as well as the health
need. With that comes several other tangible                   of the farms and farm land they depend on.
benefits: improved health, wealth, connection
and community capacity, as described below.                    Health in the context of local food and farm
                                                               systems often leads to the question of
                                                               "sustainability"-    sustainable   communities,
OUR ASSESSMENT                                                 agriculture, nature and the economy. We were
This CFA, From Our Roots, focused on the food                  unable to address the wealth of the natural
and farming situations in Gilliam, Morrow,                     systems on which farming is built, though many
Umatilla and Wheeler Counties in east central                  other organizations have. Water, soil, species
Oregon.                                                        diversity and energy are critical, variable and
                                                               changing around the region - sunlight and aridity
THE 3 A's.        We explored three criteria:
                                                               might be the main common denominators!.. Our
Availability (is food grown, processed and
                                                               bottom line is that, ultimately, sustainability is
distributed locally); Access (how and where
                                                               about health - the on-going long-term health of
people can obtain local food); and Affordability
                                                               the people, their food and lifestyles, living in
(given current economic realities, what would
                                                               enriched and adaptable environments with vital
people be willing and able to buy).
                                                               living economies and communities. Sustainable
Very importantly, the term "local food" is used                food and farming can be built upon the "triple
in two ways: food not from a specific                          bottom-line" values of creating healthy people,
geographically defined area, but that which                    planet and profits.
travels the shortest distance possible from
farmer's field to consumer's fork; and to identify
                                                                                                         Page | 3

From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam, Morrow, Umatilla &Wheeler Counties, Oregon
WEALTH. Economically speaking, cash                            vehicles, roads and paths evolved to serve
receipts to farmers are generally high, but they               different needs, from the human scale of foot-
are still earning less than they did in the 1970's,            and bicycles to the global scale sea and sky
affecting every aspect of this predominantly                   traffic. A diversified food system would
rural agricultural region. To overcome rural                   optimally mimic that multi-scaled system, or an
insecurities, job creation is a priority, and                  environmental system, based on organically
resuming greater control of the region's most on-              evolving webs of interaction between many
going, basic need for food builds naturally on                 different kinds of organisms and their
the strengths, traditions and renewed                          environment, adapting for need, through
appreciation for eating home-grown food. We                    communication with each entity along the way.
recognize, and heard a lot about, the value and
wealth generated by large-scale production                     The connections made during this Community
agriculture in the region. We also learned that,               Food Assessment are just the beginning of the
where feasible, "local food" presents an                       redevelopment of a local communication
additional, very valuable option in terms of                   network for many communities. With each
increased economic value, diversity and social                 gathering or introduction creative conversations
benefits to rural agro-economies. "Agri-                       and solutions developed as people shared their
preneurialism" and "economic gardening" are                    stories, dreams, memories and challenges of
recognized tools for diversifying the economy,                 food and farming. We heard the conversation
and improving local wage and employment                        shift away from the top-down corporate-driven
opportunities.                                                 food chain which removes food from the farm,
                                                               and control from producers and consumers, a
Our conclusions focused on the presence or                     toward a more self-directed, locally-controlled
possibilities of a more diversified, small-scale,              concept of a food web or network of interaction
food and farming economy to expand and                         and connection. Before our very eyes, farmers
compliment        larger-scale,   export-focused               and customers of all sizes created relationships,
production. This CFA identified significant                    processes, partnerships and new products,
interest and participation in farm-direct                      meeting basic needs, generating ideas and
production, marketing and purchasing in all four               sharing risks. The social system (if rich in
counties, which will be discussed in subsequent                connections and "social capital") provides the
chapters.                                                      basis for financial capital development;
                                                               increased connectivity promotes increased
CONNECTION. Connections make our world                         adaptability and creativity.      Deeper, more
work, creatively, efficiently, adaptively.                     diverse connections expand the capacity for
                                                               growth, change, resilience and success.
 “You have to look at connections. Our
 society runs on systems.”                                     In other words, CAPACITY-BUILDING - The
                        Gilliam County resident                ultimate goal of our community-based food
                                                               assessment is to expand a community's ability to
Our world is not built on A linear chain of                    take care of itself. In this case, to grow not just
interaction but networks and webs of interaction               the food supply, but new leaders, relationships,
between entities of many sizes. To use a                       and resources. A community with healthy sense
familiar model, our transportation system -                    of itself, its diversity and commonalities, its
comprised of many different sizes of feet and                  limitations and strengths, has the ability to create
                                                               opportunities to adapt and thrive, meeting the
                                                                                                           Page | 4

From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam, Morrow, Umatilla &Wheeler Counties, Oregon
human, economic and cultural needs of its
residents over time. The ultimate blessing of
developing and sustaining a healthy local food
system is that we grow more than food - we also
grow Community.


ABOUT THIS REPORT
HOW WE DID IT. From September 2009 to
July 2010 interviews and community meetings
were conducted throughout Gilliam, Morrow,
Umatilla and Wheeler Counties. Numerous
stakeholder meetings and five FEASTs were
conducted in three of the four counties. A
"FEAST" - shortened from the words Food-
Education-Agriculture Solutions Together- is a
structured meeting designed by organizers at the
Oregon Food Bank to bring together local food
stakeholders for discussion and solution
creation. Additionally, four focus groups were
conducted in the communities of Arlington,
Fossil, Mitchell and Spray. Input was also
gathered via a consumer and producer survey
that was open to all residents in the four-county
area.

FORMAT. Information for each county is
organized and analyzed separately and divided
into three general topic areas: People,
Agriculture and Food. These broad headings
addressed the issues uncovered by the
Community Food Assessment, from historical
perspectives to the present day. We tried to
capture what was, what is, and what might be
about food, food systems, farming, hunger, long
and short-term challenges and opportunities. See
Methodology, Chapter 7, for more information
on the study design and implementation and
report development.




                                                                                                        Page | 5

From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam, Morrow, Umatilla &Wheeler Counties, Oregon
CHAPTER 1—THE FOODSHED
ALL SYSTEMS GO. A "food system" is made
up of all the cultural beliefs, technical elements
and physical activities that serve to grow,
deliver, sell, consume and dispose of food. It
includes everyone from the farmers, to grocers,
consumers, marketers, distributors, transporters,
policy-makers and all who participates in
getting food from the field to the fork.          A
"foodshed" is all that plus the physical region
and natural resource base from which the food is
produced. The American foodshed ("foodprint")                  The region has a varying climate, but is
is presently very large - global, in fact. Our food            generally arid; except for increases in
is produced in and shipped from every corner of                precipitation along the foothills of the Blue and
the Earth. Food security or insecurity stems                   Ochoco Mountains most of the region is affected
from the amount of control over quantity and                   by the rain shadow effect of the Cascade
quality of food that is available to people and                Mountains. As weather fronts move eastward
communities. In the U.S., despite the appearance               across Oregon much of the precipitation occurs
of plenty, we are subject to global, multi-                    on the west slopes of the Cascades leaving little
national, climactic, political and economic                    precipitation for the counties east of the
fluctuations, with very little control at the local            mountains. This is particularly true for the
level. Increased amounts of food produced and                  uplands of Gilliam, Morrow and western
distributed in a more localized foodshed are                   Umatilla Counties. Areas that abut the Blue
seen as one way to increase food security.                     Mountains, or lie within the Umatilla and John
                                                               Day River flood plains benefit from their
NATURAL RESOURCE BASE. The four
                                                               captured     moisture,    lower     temperatures,
counties of east central Oregon - Gilliam,
                                                               precipitation and surface water.            These
Morrow, Umatilla and Wheeler - encompass a
                                                               conditions feed the soil, waterways and crops,
large area south of the Columbia River and north
                                                               creating important diversity in climate, crop
and west of the Blue Mountains. It is a region
                                                               types and quantities.
rich in history; it is the homeland of the Cayuse,
Northern Paiute, Umatilla, Walla Walla and                     The Columbia River is the largest river in the
Warm Springs tribes and original tracks from the               Northwest. It makes up the northern boundary of
overland migration along the Oregon Trail are                  Gilliam County, Morrow County and part of
still visible in many places. The Columbia                     Umatilla County. It plays a central role in the
Plateau is also rich in its agricultural activity.             culture, economy and politics of the region. It is
Farming and ranching were two of the original                  used for irrigation, power generation and a
economic mainstays of white settlement. They                   major transportation corridor. It is particularly
continue to play a critical role in the region. The            important for transportation as the Columbia
physical landmass for this CFA is depicted in                  Plateau is the largest wheat producing region in
the above map, and is comprised of the four                    the state and much of the wheat crop is shipped
counties in CAPECO's food-related service area.                down the Columbia on barges.



                                                                                                        Page | 6
From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam, Morrow, Umatilla &Wheeler Counties, Oregon
CHAPTER 2—GILLIAM COUNTY




                                                      WHEAT FIELDS AND WINDMILLS IN GILLIAM COUNTY




Introduction                                                   incorporated communities—Arlington, Condon
                                                               and Lonerock. The most residents within the
Located in the heart of the Columbia Plateau                   County live in Arlington or Condon.
region, Gilliam County was historically
important as a transportation corridor for the                 The climate varies throughout the County, but it
region’s Native American tribes traveling to and               is generally an arid region. Precipitation varies
from fishing, hunting, gathering and trading                   from an average of 9 inches in Arlington to 14
grounds. The first white settlers to the region                inches a year in Condon (Taylor, 2000). Strong
came through on the Oregon Trail and, in the                   winds are common in the Columbia River
late 19th century, began to put down roots in                  Gorge, as evidenced by the wind mills
Gilliam County.                                                blanketing large swaths of northern Gilliam
                                                               County.
Gilliam County is bounded by the Columbia
River to the north, the John Day River to the                  It is the second least populous county in Oregon,
west and the foothills of the Blue Mountains to                after Wheeler County to the south, with only
the southeast. Much of the county sits high atop               1,645 people living within its borders (Indicators
the Plateau; it ranges in elevation of over 3,000              Northwest, 2009). This low population density
feet near Condon down to 285 feet at Arlington                 gives Gilliam County, and all the counties that
on the Columbia River. There are three


From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam County, OR                                    Page | 7
surround it, the designation of a frontier county              Since 2000 Gilliam County has lost -14.1% of
(Frontier Education Center, 1998).                             its population, the second highest rate of loss in
                                                               the state of Oregon. What is particularly
Gilliam County’s primary economic drivers are                  concerning about the decreasing population is
agriculture, construction, government services                 that nearly all of it (-12%) is attributed to out-
and waste management. Agriculture is the top                   migration; people moving out of the County
employment sector with 16.2% of the workforce                  (Indicators Northwest, 2009).
employed in agriculture. A close second is
construction, employing 16% of the workforce                   Out-migration is a serious issue in rural
(Indicators Northwest, 2008). This is an increase              communities. There is much documentation on
of over 5% from 2007, due to the recent large                  the ripple effects of out migration and the impact
increase in wind energy development.                           it can have on the economy and community.
                                                               When rural communities lose critical services,
Gilliam County’s economy is diversified to a                   residents have to drive to other service centers in
greater degree than many of its neighbors. By                  the region and while there, often do all of their
the numbers, it appears to be more stable and                  shopping, exporting much needed income and
likely to have food secure individuals and                     wealth to the urban areas and leaving our rural
communities. Conversations with people                         areas wondering what happened and where it
throughout the County revealed that that                       went.
assumption is not necessarily completely
accurate. With the wealth generated from the                   Traveling and talking with residents with people
industries within its borders Gilliam County                   throughout the County uncovered stories of
appears to be well situated and capable of                     people struggling to make ends meet, and
having purposeful conversations about food and                 oftentimes going without meals or foregoing
farm opportunities that benefit its residents, and             medical care just to make ends meet each month.
increase food security at the individual and                   Senior citizens, in particular, were identified as a
community level.                                               vulnerable group. So, while on the surface it
                                                               appears that Gilliam County does not have many
People                                                         issues, the reality of not knowing where the next
By the numbers, Gilliam County seems to have                   meal is coming from exists for some residents.
few of the issues that most counties east of the
                                                                 “Seniors have the choice of eating or being
Cascades confront on a regular basis. While it
has some of the lowest unemployment and                          warm.”             Condon resident
poverty rates in the state, several themes arose in
that are of concern; Gilliam County is losing                  It is an aging population; there are lots of senior
population, the population is aging, has a lack of             citizens. 23.4% of the County population is 65
job opportunities, underemployment, lack of                    years and older, the 4th highest rate in the state.
opportunities for youth and isolation.                         There was concern about this trend by nearly
                                                               every one interviewed. While many of these
For a snap shot of information and statistics                  seniors are well taken care of, there were stories
please see 'ADDRESSING HUNGER in Gilliam                       of shut-ins, widows and people living alone on
County, 2009, page 13.                                         fixed incomes and uncertainty of how they were
                                                               living and feeding themselves.




From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam County, OR                                      Page | 8
Another consideration is the aging population is               landfills on the northern end of the County
the importance of volunteers in the communities.               receive large amounts of waste from throughout
Most volunteers are retired and/or senior                      the Pacific Northwest. Yet as the national
citizens, leaving many services performed by                   economy slowed, so did the waste coming into
volunteers to be manned by a aging and                         the landfills. People are buying less so they’re
dwindling populations. Both Arlington and                      throwing away less. An increase in recycling has
Condon echoed the importance of volunteers to                  also affected the landfills, resulting in less
sustain efforts and services, particularly for                 activity and less money flowing into the County.
those in need. Yet, as volunteers age there is
concern for the future sustainability of efforts               Hundreds of jobs have been created to build the
that are critical to community functions and                   wind farms, but many of the employees come
supports. In Condon, we were told that they                    from outside of the region. Furthermore, many
“don’t have the volunteers to sustain services                 of the jobs are short-term construction jobs. So
now needed.” And in Arlington food pantry                      outside of agriculture, waste management, wind
volunteers believe that “this town would come to               development and government services there are
screeching halt without volunteerism.” These are               very few jobs to be had in Gilliam County.
important things to consider as the population                 Many residents piece together multiple jobs to
continues to age.                                              make ends meet. One resident of Arlington
                                                               expressed her frustration at the difficulty finding
 “I would love to go back to work.”                            and retaining full time employment; “I kept a
               Arlington focus group participant               job because of my tenacity.”

                                                               Under-employment is a common occurrence in
Gilliam County also has one of the lowest rates                rural communities, but not nearly as visible or
of population under the age of 18 in the state.                discussed as unemployment. Many people work
This was echoed by many people interviewed;                    temporary or part time service industry jobs.
one young mother described Condon as “a                        These are the jobs that rarely come with benefits
family town, there is history here.” Yet, there are            such as health insurance and retirement, assuring
fewer young families and children and many                     the issues will only get more difficult over time.
attribute this trend to the lack of job
opportunities in the County. There was much
conjecture about the unemployment rate being
so low because there are no jobs, so people leave
or do not move to Gilliam County, keeping the
population rates low in a vicious cycle.

WEALTH. In June 2010 its unemployment rate
of 7.0% was the lowest in the state (Worksource
Oregon, 2010). Yet stories of a slowing
economy and underemployment were common.                       CONDON CHILDCARE GARDEN - "GROWING MINDS"!

Waste management services are an important                     Another issue concerning many residents is the
sector of Gilliam County’s economy. The                        lack of opportunities and activities for youth.
County levies a fee on the waste and uses it to                And specific to food, many people raised the
support property tax payments for residents and                concern that youth need to be educated on
funds county projects. Two waste disposal                      growing and raising food and the importance of

From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam County, OR                                     Page | 9
good nutrition. While Condon has an active FFA                 visits to the food pantry, community meals and
program that started a garden at the high school               social activities that are beneficial for health.
last year, Arlington does not. This is not                     One rural resident told us that “I can do a lot of
surprising as many communities and schools                     stretching” but the existing services don’t
have lost agriculture educational opportunities                necessarily cover the entire month. This may
over time. It is an important outlet for youth                 mean going without critical services, such a
though, and there is interest in bringing it back.             medical attention, as well.

 “Our kids around here have nothing to do. If                  Many of these people are on SNAP, but their
 you don’t play sports you’re flat out of luck.”               food supply often dwindles by the end of the
                Gilliam County employee
                                                               month and they have to use the food pantry. This
                                                               is a common and regular occurrence. As one
                                                               social service worker explained “emergency
HEALTH. The Center for Disease Control (US
                                                               food has become a regular, sustaining food
Dept. of Health and Human Services) tracked
                                                               source for many pantry clients.”
Gilliam County residents' increasing rates of
diabetes and obesity between 2004 and 2007.
                                                                  “Not being able to provide for your family is
The numbers rose, from 6.6% to 6.9%, and
                                                                  a very personal thing.”
23.4% to 26.1% respectively. Thankfully,
                                                                                               Condon resident
education for everyone in the community was
also identified as an important next step. The
two most sought after education opportunities                  While this need is a source of embarrassment for
identified in the consumer survey were nutrition               many working families, it is also the reality of
(36%) and gardening (32%). This was seconded                   living in remote and isolated rural communities
by many people that were interviewed. Pantry                   without ready access to fresh, healthy local food
volunteers in both Arlington and Condon                        sources. It is difficult to get those in need tied
stressed the need to educate their clients in meal             into the service net and we were told that school
planning and preparation. While the food pantry                employees “have to hound families to sign up
volunteers and clients would like to see more                  for free- and reduced-price lunches for their
fresh products, they don’t necessarily have                    children.” Echoing this sentiment, DHS
supplies to cook with and don’t know how to                    employee told of families struggling to keep
cook it.                                                       food in the fridge yet not utilizing SNAP.

Lastly, an issue that has already been touched on              Agriculture
but is an important consideration in this work is              From the beginning of white settlement,
the vulnerability of population groups, or entire              agriculture has been central to culture and the
communities, living in isolation in rural areas.               economy of Gilliam County. The earliest settlers
Gilliam is a "frontier" county (fewer than 6                   brought cattle with them over the Oregon Trail
people per square mile), with food sources more                and planted grains that were suited to the dry
than ten miles from many homes and towns.                      climate. There were also “many good fruit
Many of locals shop at the local grocery stores                orchards” within the County (Fourth State of
because they don’t have the ability to drive to                Oregon Biennial Report, 1911, p.130).
larger towns where groceries may be cheaper.
                                                               Grain and cattle remain the mainstays of
Transportation is an issue throughout the region.
                                                               agriculture in Gilliam County, while the
Many folks shared that they may also forego
                                                               orchards that once existed have all but vanished.


From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam County, OR                                    Page | 10
Wheat is the principal crop; there are over                    There was concern expressed by a number of
97,000 acres planted. Barley and cattle are also               people interviewed that the family structure of
important contributors to the agricultural                     farms is changing as well; farmers continue to
economy. The sale of grains, oilseeds, dry beans               get older and the average age is now 59.5 years.
and dry peas is valued at nearly $25 million and               Many residents also expressed concern that it is
cattle and calf sales are valued at $6.4 million a             difficult for the next generation to stay on the
year (Census of Agriculture, 2007).                            farm. It is much more likely that these farms
                                                               supported multiple generations in the past than
Gilliam County has 164 farms with an average                   they do today. Inheriting the farm or starting out
size of just over 4,200 acres; the second largest              as a beginning farmer is fraught with financial
average in the state (Census of Agriculture,                   complexities and oftentimes insurmountable
2007). While there is anecdotal evidence to                    barriers.
suggest that there is a trend of fewer people
                                                                 “The era of kids working on farms is a thing
farming larger acreages, there are 10 more farms
today than there were in 1987 and they are, on                   of the past.” Gilliam County employee
average, 800 acres smaller (Highlights of                                       Gilliam County Grocer
Agriculture, 1992 & 1987).                                     In 1984 the Conservation Reserve Program
                                                               (which pays farmers to move sensitive and
                                                               fragile lands from productive to protection
 FARMS IN GILLIAM COUNTY
                                                               status) was implemented. As one resident
                     164 farms on 733,387 acres.               shared, it has had long lasting effects on the
                  Estimated value of land and building per     agricultural economy in Gilliam County. A
 BY THE NUMBERS




                  farm is $2.0 million and $443 per            great deal of land was taken out of production to
                  acre.                                        be placed in the program. This resulted in the
                     Total production expenses in the          loss of agricultural infrastructure including feed,
                  county is    $28 million;        average     fuel, and maintenance businesses. Losing these
                  production   expenses    per   farm is       businesses and the infrastructure, jobs and
                  $171,271 and $38 per acre.                   income that came with them, she shared, was
                     Total net cash income in the county is    damaging and had unmeasured impacts on the
                  $17 million; average of $104,719             regional economy. As noted below, wind
                  per farm and $23 per acre.                   farming could have a similar effect.

                                                               Gilliam County and its farmers have not sat idly
It is important to note though, that this data does            by as time and circumstances have changed
not tell the complete story of the changing face               around them though. There are several groups
of farming in Gilliam County. While the average                working within the county to change the system
size of farms has decreased over time, many                    of how wheat is grown and marketed. One of the
farms have indeed grown in size. This does not                 successes highlighted by many is the Gilliam
equate to increased income for the farmer                      County Grain Quality Laboratory. Located near
though. As one resident suggested; when farms                  Arlington, the Laboratory works to increase the
get bigger, they “are not more lucrative, there                viability and success of local growers by helping
are not greater margins by expanding; it takes                 them value to their products.
more inputs and is more expensive.”
                                                               A more recent means of income generation on
                                                               farm land in Gilliam County is revenue from


From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam County, OR                                    Page | 11
wind development. Many farmers receive lease                   more than a few plants. It is more than just water
payments from wind companies for the wind                      scarcity that affects growing conditions though,
mills placed on their land. While these lease                  the varying climate plays a large role as well.
payments have helped some farmers, others                      The longest growing seasons are in Arlington
shared that they have served more as a stopgap                 and along a few lower elevation creeks. Condon
and didn’t necessarily increased the farm’s                    and much of the county are at a high elevation
income. As one farmer explained, wind benefits                 and therefore experience higher fluctuations in
help the land owner because it “puts stability                 temperatures and are more likely to have a
under the farm”. This is not necessarily an                    killing frost in late spring and early fall.
increase in the expendable income, but it can
keep the farm from going further into debt.                    ALTERNATIVE AG. These limitations appear
Land lease revenues will also allow some                       to be the main reasons that there are very few
farmers to retire, which might diminish the total              farmers growing for a local market. The U.S.
amount of land under cultivation, or related                   Agriculture Census data (2007) counted seven
agro-economic activities in the county.                        Gilliam farms that grow fruits and vegetables on
                                                               an unknown number of acres. We were not able
Gilliam County grows an enormous amount of                     to find them during our investigation. Just a few
food, far more than the county or state                        people were identified in the course of this
consumes. While large scale, export-based                      project that grow or raise food to sell directly to
conventional agriculture is a strength of Gilliam              consumers within the region - several ranchers
County and is critical to its economy, it doesn’t              sell live or on the hoof, a blueberry grower and a
feed the people that live within its borders.                  niche market wheat farmer direct-market to
                                                               customers. Even the regular produce vendor at
                                                               the Condon Community Farmers’ Market last
                                                               year is not from Gilliam County, but came up
                                                               every month from Wheeler County. Market
                                                               supporters explain that it is “difficult getting
                                                               local growers; sometimes we struggle to get just
                                                               one vendor.”

                                                               This lack of a locally or regionally focused food
                                                               system leaves Gilliam County vulnerable to
                                                               forces beyond their control, but also presents an
                   GILLIAM COUNTY WHEAT FIELDS                 opportunity as consumers expressed interest in
                                                               buying more locally produced food.
It is not easy to grow crops Gilliam County,
especially produce. In this arid region, water
                                                               Food
scarcity is a serious limiting factor. In Condon
wells have to be drilled hundreds of feet to reach             The lack of locally-focused food and farm
water. And while Arlington was described as the                activities and resources in Gilliam County is
“banana belt” of the county, watering when the                 concerning when viewed through the lens of
wind is blowing, which is much of the time, was                food security. There is very little food locally
described as foolish. Not only is watering                     grown available, yet there are several important
difficult because of these factors, but those on               pieces of the food system still funtioning.
city water shared that it is too expensive to grow


From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam County, OR                                    Page | 12
EMERGENCY FOOD. Nearly 70% of Gilliam                          Grocery stores in both towns accept SNAP and
County residents live in Arlington and Condon                  WIC benefits. The Condon Community
and thus have good access to a relatively stable               Farmers’ Market has a vendor that accepts
food supply. Both towns have a food pantry and                 FDNP coupons and WIC vouchers. Outside of
functioning grocery stores. Residents are                      these sources, there are no other markets to
fortunate to have this level of access to food; it             access food in Gilliam County.
is better than that of many of the surrounding
communities in the region. The remaining 30%                     “Big stores out of town are the biggest
of residents are not as fortunate though, as they                threat.”            Gilliam County grocer
have to travel to access food supplies and other
services.                                                      The issues faced by rural independent grocers
                                                               need to be better understood and more
The pantries in Arlington and Condon are open
                                                               thoughtfully   considered    by    community
one day a month. Combined, they served 742
                                                               members. There were many complaints about
emergency food boxes last year to 3090 people,
                                                               shopping in local stores including “when you
a 9% increase from 2008.There were stories of
                                                               shop in town you have to get the stuff that is
people missing the once-per-month distribution
                                                               cheap; the fruits and vegetables are too
day because of time, travel and other conflicts
                                                               expensive.” Another consumer went so far as to
and challenges. Perhaps the two food pantries
                                                               say, “When we shop here it costs an arm and a
might explore being open more than one day a
                                                               leg.”
month to make it easier for clients to access
food.                                                          Higher price are typically the reality of shopping
                                                               in rural grocery stores, and Gilliam County is no
GROCERY STORES. Rural grocery stores
                                                               exception. These stores face barriers that chain
have received much coverage and recognition in
                                                               stores in large towns and along transportation
recent years. Many communities have lost their
                                                               corridors do not. In all of the interviews, Two
grocery stores or have stores that are not
                                                               Boys was described as the exception; many
responsive to community members. This is
                                                               people do the majority of their shopping there.
distressing because grocery stores are often the
                                                               There were even stories of people from Fossil
cornerstones of viable downtown or commercial
                                                               coming to Condon to shop. The hard work and
districts and if they fail, many other businesses
                                                               commitment to high quality products and
are at risk of failure as well. Vulnerable
                                                               competitive prices were cited as reasons for their
populations are put at more risk as well because
                                                               success. As one resident voice, “as far as fruit
they may not have a car, the time or money to
                                                               and veggies go, you can’t beat them.”
travel to towns far away to buy groceries.
                                                               There are opportunities for growth in the retail
Arlington has Thrifty Foods and Condon has
                                                               sector in Gilliam County. One store owner
two grocery stores, B & C Grocery and Two
                                                               shared that “[residents] don’t realize that if
Boys Meat and Grocery. All of these stores are
                                                               another 25% of the population shopped here
independently owned and operated. Each plays
                                                               we’d build a bigger store. But they don’t think
an important role in their local economy,
                                                               like that.” Most people are driving to The
providing access to food, stability for the local
                                                               Dalles, Hermiston or Tri Cities for groceries.
business environment and providing jobs.
Interestingly, we learned that Two Boys is the                 When asked where residents get the majority of
largest private employer in Condon.                            their food, after grocery stores, 56% of the


From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam County, OR                                   Page | 13
consumer survey respondents said “sit-down                     food needs. Several people believe that there are
restaurant” and “grow it or raise it”. Although it             policy and regulation changes that need to be
was generally agreed that people don’t have                    implemented to increase the consumption of
money to eat out anymore, and restaurants are                  wild foods, but most survey respondents (48%)
hurting because of it. Arlington is the exception              were interested in identifying, cooking and
as there has been a large influx of workers                    preserving educational opportunities.
building Shepherds Flat Wind Farm, a project
that will be the largest land-based wind farm in               So while there are good things happening around
the world when it is completed.                                the local food economy, the number one reason
                                                               (95%) why people in Gilliam County don’t buy
 “Nothing is more rewarding than to plant a                    local food is that is it not available. Exploring
 seed and watch it grow and produce.”                          and supporting community-focused food and
                             Rural county resident
                                                               farm opportunities should be a next step for the
                                                               communities. There was much interest in
                                                               increasing the production of local food, and the
Growing and raising food for personal                          survey revealed that the top two things that
consumption appears to be very important to the                Gilliam County residents want are community
people in Gilliam County. Many people still                    gardens and farmers’ markets.
grow their own food, but not without difficulty
because of water scarcity, the price of water in
the city and the climatic conditions. In Condon,
another looming issue is the outdated city water
system. It may need to be completely replaced in
10-15 years and could have untold effects on
availability and cost of water for city residents

Historically, animals were raised for personal
consumption, but it is no longer a common
practice. A policy issue that arose was the
inability of residents to raise animals within
Condon city limits. Gilliam County has always
                                                                        CONDON COMMUNITY FARMERS’ MARKET
been indelibly linked to agriculture, yet several
residents expressed their disappointment in not                People want more fresh local food and it’s time
being able to raise animals for themselves.                    for the County to come together and assure that
                                                               there is more access to food for everyone within
 “I can’t even have a chicken in my backyard.                  the county no matter where they live or how
 You can have a chicken in downtown                            much money they have.
 Portland, but not in Condon.”
                                                               For a snap shot of food and hunger statistics
                             Condon “farming girl”
                                                               please see "ADDRESSING HUNGER IN
                                                               GILLIAM COUNTY (2009)", next page.
Hunting and fishing are important food sources
in Gilliam County. Fifty-six percent of survey
respondents consider hunting, fishing or
harvesting of wild food to be “somewhat” or
“very” important to meeting their household


From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam County, OR                                  Page | 14
ADDRESSING HUNGER in Gilliam County, 2009
GILLIAM COUNTY Oregon
   In these hard economic times, many more people are hungry, especially children and seniors.
   Federal food programs can help feed people and provide economic stimulus for local economies.
   Gilliam County could bring in millions more federal dollars by reaching more eligible people.

      School Lunches, Breakfast, &                                                                    SNAP/ Food Stamps
             Summer Meals                                                        In 2008 ~
                                                                                            146 people received SNAP/food stamps per
                                                                                             month in Gilliam County.
                                                                                            $145,977 federal dollars were brought into the
                                                                                             local economy.
                                                                                 If all eligible people were enrolled in SNAP, Gilliam
                                                                                 County would have received an additional $122,879
                                                                                 dollars each month in federal money and 171 additional
                                                                                 people would have received help putting food on the
                                                                                 table.

In 2008 ~42.9% of all students were eligible for free                             HOW YOU CAN HELP
and reduced price meals in Gilliam County. Of those
who ate lunch:                                                                         Support public policies that help low-income
          51% received school breakfast.                                               people meet their basic needs.
          None ate meals through the Summer Food                                      Support efforts to reach more people through
             Program.                                                                   federal food assistance programs.
 If all who were eligible for free or reduced price lunch                              Refer to the Act to End Hunger for more
  were served, Gilliam County would have received an                                    ideas to address hunger in your county.
                                                                                                  For specific information
 additional $10,485 in federal dollars a year and fed an
                                                                                                visitwww.oregonhunger.org
       additional 24 eligible low-income children.



    Women, Infants &                        Emergency                                 Farm Direct                                    Afterschool
Children Program (WIC0*)                  Food Assistance                           Nutrition Program                               Meals & Snacks

In 2008, WIC served 7,072            In 2008, 680 food boxes                  Seniors and WIC families                     During the 2007/08 school
pregnant     or     breast-          provided emergency food                  redeemed $0 in the county                    year, 0 suppers were
feeding women, infants               to help families make ends               to buy fresh produce in                      served in high need areas.
and children * under five,           meet.                                    2008. Coupons may have
representing 45% of all                                                       been redeemed in nearby
pregnant women (compared                                                      counties
                                         * WIC data for Gilliam County cannot be extracted from Umatilla – Marrow Head Start data
to 40% statewide average).
                         Gilliam County Demographic Information
           Total Population: 1,885                                         Children 0-18 years: 401
             People in Poverty: 209 (11.1%)                               Children in Poverty:       69 or (17.1%)


       From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam County, OR                                                            Page | 15
opportunities for youth to stay or return are
CONCLUSION                                                     critical for the future health and wealth of their
When viewed through the lens of food security,                 communities.
Gilliam County faces some serious issues. Yet
these issues are not unique to this county alone;                “Perseverance is something that we’ve
many of the food availability, accessibility and                 really lost.”      Gilliam County farmer
affordability issues they face are common across
eastern Oregon.
                                                               In order to increase self-sufficiency and food
For well over a hundred years wheat has been                   security for all residents and at the community
central to culture and the economy of Gilliam                  level many solutions were identified by the
County. An enormous amount of wheat is grown                   residents of Gilliam County. Many are hopeful,
within the County, and it is indelibly linked to               yet recognize that to truly made headway that
global export markets. Yet, while this is a great              “people have to begin to think differently and
economic strength, very little food is grown                   long term.” This is beginning to happen around
within the County for local consumption. Most                  food.
of the food consumed comes in on truck from
                                                               The opportunities outlined next incorporate
places far away.
                                                               many of those ideas offered throughout our
Gilliam County has the lowest unemployment                     interviews, meetings and focus groups in
rate in Oregon, a statistic of which many are                  Arlington, Condon and the County. The people
proud. Yet stories shared with us revealed that                that live within these communities are best
the reality on the ground is much different than               prepared to know what solutions are most
what the numbers tell. Gilliam County is in a                  achievable and needed, which is why most of the
steady population decline and the average age of               action steps outlined here of from the
residents, and farmers, continues to grow. This                community themselves. As it was so well put by
was a great concern of many of those we spoke                  one rural resident, “we have to do it ourselves; it
with because they realize that having                          has to come from here.”




From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam County, OR                                    Page | 16
OPPORTUNITIES IN GILLIAM COUNTY
Recommendation 1: Increase outreach and networking around local food and farm opportunities.

1. Establish a communication and support network to facilitate the sharing of ideas and resources.

2. Connect with regional and state networks to further community food and farm efforts.

3. Develop and implement a public education campaign on the benefits of healthy eating habits and a
   local food system.

Recommendation 2: Expand educational opportunities for community members.

1. Identify, and distribute cooking and meal planning materials at food pantries.

2. Identify, and coordinate with gardening and agricultural education resources to increase gardening
   and agricultural entrepreneurial skills.

3. Identify and coordinate with current nutrition educators and experts to implement projects to increase
   understanding and the practice of healthy eating habits.

4. Identify existing, or develop educational resources to build knowledge about hunting, fishing and
   harvesting wild foods; specific areas might include identification, cooking, preservation, rights and
   responsibilities.

Recommendation 3: Explore and support community-focused food and farm opportunities, ideas
and resources.

1. Recognize community and economic development through local food as a legitimate strategy.

2. Encourage the development of community gardens, and the success and expansion of existing
   gardens.

3. Identify and consider small scale production strategies.

4. Encourage development of more local food and farm entrepreneurial opportunities, specifically
   CSAs, farm stands, meat slaughter and processing, U-pick and value-added enterprises.

Recommendation 4: Increase the number of venues featuring local or regionally produced food.

1. Establish, expand and support farmers’ markets as a way to provide regular access to fresh, local or
   regional food.

2. Explore interest in farm-to-school programs, and establish where feasible.

3. Identify institutional food purchasers and engage and educate them about purchasing locally or
   regionally produced food.


From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam County, OR                           Page | 17
4. Increase the amount of local or regionally produced food available in grocery stores and restaurants.

Recommendation 5: Ensure regular access to a stable fresh food supply for all citizens year-round.

1. Increase the amount of fresh food available at food pantries.

2. Establish FDNP and WIC Fruit and Veggie Voucher retailers in every community.

3. Increase knowledge and understanding of the SNAP program.

4. Establish programs that feed children including summer lunch, fresh snacks, breakfast, dinner and
   weekend meals.

5. Ensure that food is considered in the County emergency management plans.

6. Establish appropriate gleaning options at all levels of the food system, when and wherever possible.




From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam County, OR                             Page | 18
CHAPTER 3—MORROW COUNTY




                                                              HAYFIELDS AND WINDMILLS IN NORTH MORROW COUNTY


        Introduction                                              county - which receive approximately 8 inches
                                                                  annually.
        Land of sunshine, deep soils and minimal water,
        this county has provided rich hunting, gathering,         Morrow is the second largest in both population
        grazing and farming opportunities for centuries.          and land mass of the four counties in this study,
        It comprises the southern-most edge of the                and boasts five incorporated towns, seven
        Columbia Plateau, and the western-most portion            unincorporated towns, and the ghost town of
        of the Confederated Umatilla Tribes Ceded                 Hardman. Of the 11,553 county residents, just
        Lands, with treaty- protected rights of use to this       over 7,000 are counted as residents in the
        day. It is now home to residents of all stripes and       incorporated towns. This leaves another four
        colors, employed largely in food and farming-             thousand individuals living in very rural or
        based economic activities and lifestyles.                 unincorporated areas, perhaps far from food and
                                                                  community resources. The County population
        Like its neighbors to the south and south-west            has fluctuated up and down by approximately
        (Gilliam, Grant and Wheeler), "rugged county"             10% over the past decade. But overall, in
        is both the official and informal motto of this           contrast to the other counties, it has almost
        county, and it is well-earned. High rolling and           tripled in population the past 30 years.
        wind-swept hills bisected with deep furrowed
        canyons create a sense of both expansiveness              Approximately half of the county's residents live
        and seclusion. On its south flank rise the Blue           in the two northern towns of Irrigon and
        Mountains, supplying up to 16 inches of                   Boardman. These towns are connected by three
        precipitation per year to land and out-flowing            enormous transportation systems - the Columbia
        streams. This is twice the amount of rainfall             River, transcontinental rail lines and the
        received in the central and north sections of the         Interstate highway. These arterials provide in-


From Our Roots: The People Agriculture & Food of Morrow County, OR                                       Page | 19
and outflow of goods and people, an ebb and             Boardman, two gas-fired plants at the Port,
        flow of money and opportunities that form the           geothermal and even methane digesters. And as
        basis of a lucrative port and transport-based           in other wind-swept high Plateau counties, you
        export economy. Perhaps because of these                will now see giant windmills tilting at a new
        physical connections, the communities and               kind of energy.
        individuals of the north relate more closely to
        their eastern Umatilla neighbors, with whom             People
        they share many similarities in climate,                The people of Morrow County have come from
        demographics and agricultural opportunities.            all walks of life and all parts of the world.
         The dryer southern half of Morrow, in contrast,        Native cultures have variously lived with and/or
        is defined by the canyons and moderate flows of         clashed with newcomers, a pattern repeating and
        Willow Creek and its tributaries, tying together        reversing itself through time and history with
        several small towns (Heppner, Lexington, Ione)          waves of new immigrants and ethnicities.
        like beads on a string. Through distance and            This section explores what our assessments
        other geographic features these towns are               identified as the important "people", or social
        relatively isolated - geographically, socially and      capital elements: diversity, education, health and
        economically - from the populous and diverse            cultural identity. For a snap shot of demographic
        northern "micropolitan" areas along the I-84            and hunger information and statistics, please see
        corridor. The residents here resemble and relate        "ADDRESSING HUNGER in Morrow County,
        to their historic wheat farming and ranching            2009", page 27.
        neighbors on the high Columbia Plateau. This
        cultural and geographic distance between north          South Morrow County residents have cultivated
        and south creates a complex picture for                 and preserved a lively, relatively European
        addressing farm and food opportunities and food         cultural and farming heritage (Irish, Basque,
        security challenges in this county.                     Welsh, Scottish, Swedish, to name a few that
                                                                figure in the mix), with long, deep relationships
                                                                within their communities and to the "rugged
                                                                country" they live in. This appears to supports a
                                                                strong sense of cohesion, self-sufficiency and
                                                                care for each other. And perhaps, a sense of
                                                                insularity.

                                                                Relative homogeneity makes it easier to identify
                                                                and perhaps organize around specific needs and
                                                                opportunities in the southern area, which we
        COLUMBIA RIVER IN NEAR IRRIGON
                                                                understand is the norm here. Yet this can also
        Principal industries in the county today include        make it more difficult to identify and implement
        agriculture, lumber, livestock, and recreation,         change if there are cultural barriers to bringing
        with agriculture employing upwards of 22% of            in new resources and ideas.
        the population. Morrow may also be unique in
        the representative energy facilities and the            On the other end, the northern portion of the
        employment opportunities they bring - hydro-            county has drawn significant numbers of new
        electric dams, a coal-fired generating plant in         people from outside the region to work in the
                                                                government, agricultural and manufacturing

From Our Roots: The People Agriculture & Food of Morrow County, OR                                      Page | 20
sectors. Expanding Hispanic and other minority          A large number (82%) of respondents surveyed
        populations have found a niche in Morrow's              expressed concern with poor diet and nutrition in
        entry-level and subsistence work opportunities,         the county. It is encouraging to note that
        riding a roller-coaster of needs and                    cooking, gardening, health and nutrition
        opportunities. Not only does this influence the         concerns also ranked relatively high: sixty-eight
        socio-economic and ethnic mix, it has increased         percent of the respondents requested increased
        the number of young people enrolled in schools,         education around gardening, nutrition, food
        in other programs for youth and families, and in        cooking and preservation and
        the job market. The demand for services and
        food are more visible, and more visibly met in          Also heartening are the number of good ways to
        the north. Here diversity - of language, culture,       meet the health, nutrition and education need
        experience and education - make it more                 that are very close to home.
        difficult to identify, categorize and meet needs.
                                                                     When volunteering with the High School I met
        CONNECTIVITY. There did not appear to be                     students who had never peeled a vegetable or
        strong connections between north and south,                  sliced an onion. They loved the opportunity
        which hinders communication, awareness, trust                and wished something like home economics
        and creative solution-building for the county as a           was available so that they could learn these
        whole. Capacity for growth and resilience at the             basic skills."       - OSU Extension volunteer
        county-level is limited when connectivity is
        limited.
                                                                In addition to school breakfasts and summer
        HEALTH. A number of statistics provide a
                                                                feeding programs, many schools around the
        snapshot of the relative health and quality of life
                                                                region have long had gardens and greenhouses.
        for    individuals and families here. First,
                                                                Classroom activities of the Future Farmers of
        education plays an important part in
                                                                America and 4-H programs utilize them as part
        employment and earnings, in health and well-
                                                                of their agricultural education. South Morrow
        being: in 2009, Morrow County registered the
                                                                County (Ione and Heppner) has two such
        highest number of adults without high school
                                                                programs in their schools that provide
        diplomas (over 25%), and second highest
                                                                exceptional skill-building, entrepreneurial and
        unemployment rate of 8.7%. As a whole,
                                                                opportunities for their students, and potentially
        Morrow County has a higher rate of children and
                                                                for their school food and nutrition programs.
        elders in poverty - 20% and 10%, respectively -
                                                                They stand as good examples for others to learn
        compared to the rest of the region and state. In
                                                                from. Another educational resource is the OSU
        some county school districts, over 94% of the
                                                                Extension Service which provides agricultural,
        children qualify for free and reduced price
                                                                food and nutrition training. The Master
        meals, while in other districts the numbers hover
                                                                Gardeners program has a number of trained
        in the 30% range.
                                                                volunteers in this county; along with
        Of our four counties, Morrow has the highest            independent gardening clubs there is good
        rate of diabetes in the Counties studied (8.4% of       support for both long-time and beginning garden
        adults), ranks second in obesity rates (over 27%        efforts. Further, the Extension program has also
        of the adult population), and has the highest rate      staffed and trained volunteers to serve in the
        of infant mortality (NW Indicators, 2009).              Family Nutrition Education Program and Master
                                                                Food Preservers/Family Food Educators who

From Our Roots: The People Agriculture & Food of Morrow County, OR                                        Page | 21
can be employed in our region in a variety of           from abundant water, as some of the nation's
        ways. In the mid- to longer-term OSU Extension          largest corporate food processors and exporters
        Service should also be encouraged to find ways          do business in the northern part of the county.
        to serve more rural eastern communities with
        these programs.                                         In regards to farming and agriculture, Morrow
                                                                County looks very good "on paper": it ranks first
        Agriculture                                             in the state for the quantity and dollar value of
                                                                the livestock raised; second in potato, wheat, and
        Early sheep and cattlemen found an abundance
                                                                legume crops; and third in the state, close behind
        of native rye along the creek bottoms of the
                                                                Umatilla county, in terms of the value of gross
        region and drove their herds in to forage on
                                                                farm and ranch sales.
        these natural pastures. The towns of Lexington
        and Ione began as sheep stations and over two
                                                                Further examination of the 2007 Agricultural
        million pounds of wool were shorn and sold
                                                                Census numbers (USDA, box below) show that
        from this county in 1910. The 1911 Oregon
                                                                the average production expenses on Morrow
        Bureau of Labor Biennial Report also noted that
                                                                farms as $275/ acre, with an average net income
        the county was home to a butter factory, three
                                                                of $65 per acre. The gap between the costs
        flour mills, dairies, cool storage facilities, soap-
        makers, meat markets and numerous grocery               and returns of typical farm production cause
        stores that served the local communities.               many to ponder the benefits and value of
                                                                current, conventional agricultural activities.
        WEALTH. More recently, north Morrow has
        experienced rapid growth with development of            Government     payments     (a mix    of
        dairy, food processing, product distribution, tree      commodity,     conservation    and land-
        farms (second highest production in the nation),        retirement programs) to farms in Morrow
        and other activities. (Indicators Northwest,            have increased by 44% between 2002 and
        2008).      Economically, Morrow boasts a               2007 (averaging $47,000 per farm).
        relatively high median income (over $45,000)
        and also a lower per capita income ($14,000)                 FARMS IN MORROW COUNTY
        than the rest of Oregon, partly to due to the
                                                                                        421 farms on 1,104,250 acres.
        diversity of the population and type and variety
                                                                     BY THE NUMBERS




                                                                                      Estimated value of land and building per
        of employment options available.
                                                                                      farm is $1.9 million or $973 per
                                                                                      acre.
        The county divides into three main agricultural
                                                                                         Total production expenses in the county
        occupational zones of irrigated crops, wheat and
                                                                                      are    $303 million;     average production
        ranch lands in the central area and timberlands
        in the south east corner of the Blues. The advent                             expenses per farm is        $721,383 or
        of center pivot technology for irrigation has been                            $275 per acre.
        a further stimulus to the local economy of the                                      Total net cash income in the county is
        north, allowing for large-scale irrigated crops. A                            $354 million; averaging $170,760
        drive through the agri-business loop at the Port                              per farm and $65 per acre.
        of Morrow reveals the advantage that comes




From Our Roots: The People Agriculture & Food of Morrow County, OR                                                      Page | 22
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks
From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks

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From Our Roots: Community Action Program of East Central Oregon and Food Banks

  • 1. From Our Roots Community Food Assessment Report The People, Agriculture and Food of Gilliam, Morrow, Umatilla and Wheeler Counties, Oregon Community Action Program of East Central Oregon In cooperation with Oregon Food Bank and Resource Assistance for Rural Environments
  • 2. THE ASSESSMENT TEAM PRIMARY AUTHORS AND RESEARCHERS Karen Wagner, CAPECO Katie Weaver, CAPECO and RARE CONTRIBUTING AUTHORS, RESEARCHERS AND EDITORS Alison Arnold, Columbia Blue Mountain RC&D and RARE Sarah Burford, Columbia Plateau Food Links Cynthia Eardley, CAPECO and OCAC COLLABORATORS Paula Chavez, CAPECO Sharon Thornberry, Oregon Food Bank Wheeler County Local Food Committee i
  • 3. FOREWARD When the first settlers came to Oregon they were amazed by the rich soil, abundant water supply and even the islands of productivity in Oregon’s deserts. They were thrilled with the crops, fruits and berries they were able to raise, the rich pastureland, as well as the streams teaming with fish and the bounty of wild game available to feed a growing population. It would have been impossible for them to believe that anyone could be hungry or food insecure in this land of plenty. It is incredible that hunger and food insecurity abound in Oregon nearly two centuries later. In fact, many of the areas that seemed so bountiful to those early settlers have the least access to food today. Two years ago the Oregon Food Bank in partnership with University of Oregon Resource Assistance for Rural Environments AmeriCorps program began to conduct community food assessments in some of Oregon’s rural counties. Very few community food assessment efforts have been undertaken in rural America with a county by county approach. The report you are about to read is a result of conversations with the people who make Oregon’s rural communities and their food systems so very unique. These reports are also a gift from a small group of very dedicated young people who have spent the last year listening, learning and organizing. It is our sincere hope, that these reports and organizing efforts will help Oregonians renew their vision and promise of the bountiful food system that amazed those early settlers. Sharon Thornberry Community Resource Developer Oregon Food Bank ii
  • 4. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Beyond our main collaborators, we acknowledge the support of the many community members who committed time and energy to the research, outreach, organizing and reviews of community food expansion and this Assessment. In this abbreviated list we include local county governments, teachers, and staff from agencies and organizations that serve the communities we visited, to farmers, gardeners, farmers' market organizers, local food groups and individuals who care about the places they live in and the health and well-being of their friends and neighbors. The Gilliam-Morrow-Umatilla Wheeler Community Food Assessment is dedicated to the people of these Counties and the inspiration and hard work they've undertaken for local food security and local food systems development iii
  • 5. TABLE OF CONTENTS THE ASSESSMENT TEAM ......................................................................................................................... i FOREWARD ................................................................................................................................................ ii ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ........................................................................................................................... iii TABLE OF CONTENTS ............................................................................................................................. iv Executive Summary From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture and Food of Gilliam, Morrow, Umatilla and Wheeler Counties................................................................................................................... 1 INTRODUCTION ........................................................................................................................................ 2 Community Food Security ............................................................................................................................ 2 Community Food Assessment ...................................................................................................................... 2 Our Assessment ............................................................................................................................................ 3 About This Report......................................................................................................................................... 5 CHAPTER 1—THE FOODSHED ............................................................................................................... 6 CHAPTER 2—GILLIAM COUNTY .......................................................................................................... 7 Introduction ............................................................................................................................................... 7 People ........................................................................................................................................................ 8 Agriculture .............................................................................................................................................. 10 Food......................................................................................................................................................... 12 Conclusion .................................................................................................................................................. 16 Opportunities in Gilliam County................................................................................................................. 17 CHAPTER 3—MORROW COUNTY ....................................................................................................... 19 Introduction ............................................................................................................................................. 19 People ...................................................................................................................................................... 20 Agriculture .............................................................................................................................................. 22 Food......................................................................................................................................................... 24 Conclusion .................................................................................................................................................. 30 Opportunities in Morrow County................................................................................................................ 31 CHAPTER 4—UMATILLA COUNTY ..................................................................................................... 33 Introduction ............................................................................................................................................. 33 People ...................................................................................................................................................... 34 Agriculture .............................................................................................................................................. 37 Food......................................................................................................................................................... 40 iv
  • 6. Conclusion .................................................................................................................................................. 45 Opportunities in Umatilla County ............................................................................................................... 46 CHAPTER 5—WHEELER COUNTY ....................................................................................................... 48 Introduction ............................................................................................................................................. 48 People ...................................................................................................................................................... 49 Agriculture .............................................................................................................................................. 51 Food......................................................................................................................................................... 53 Conclusion .................................................................................................................................................. 57 Opportunities in Wheeler County ............................................................................................................... 58 CHAPTER 6—REGIONAL ASSESSMENT ............................................................................................ 60 PEOPLE .................................................................................................................................................. 61 AGRICULTURE ..................................................................................................................................... 62 FOOD ...................................................................................................................................................... 65 CONCLUSION ........................................................................................................................................... 66 Opportunities in the Regional Foodshed .................................................................................................... 68 CHAPTER 7—DEVELOPMENT OF THE STUDY ................................................................................. 71 Data Source ................................................................................................................................................. 71 Methodology ............................................................................................................................................... 71 Limitations and Value of the Study ............................................................................................................ 71 glossary ....................................................................................................................................................... 72 WORKS CITED ......................................................................................................................................... 73 APPENDICES ............................................................................................................................................ 75 v
  • 7. EXECUTIVE SUMMARY FROM OUR ROOTS: THE PEOPLE, AGRICULTURE AND FOOD OF GILLIAM, MORROW, UMATILLA AND WHEELER COUNTIES Covering four east-central Oregon counties, Gilliam, Morrow, Umatilla and Wheeler, this Community Food Assessment (CFA) From Our Roots, was ambitious and large-scale. It skimmed the surface of assets and opportunities in the region (including a look across the Columbia River to the northern part of this foodshed). The effort helps address ever-growing nutrition-related health problems, diminished rural agricultural economies and food insecurity across the region. It is driven, in part, by the fact that the Community Action Program of East Central Oregon (CAPECO), in partnership with the Oregon Food Bank, supplies emergency food to regional residents here - over one million pounds in 2009 - a quantity that is growing, unsustainable and almost unbelievable, considering the vast amounts of food grown here. WHAT WE LOOKED FOR. This CFA rooted out opportunities to re-localize the food system , touching briefly on natural resources, economic prosperity and diversity, historical and cultural wealth, community health, market expansion, infrastructural supports, and resiliency. We used three criteria to explore food security and opportunities: food access (how and where people can obtain local food); food availability (is it grown, processed and distributed locally), and food affordability (given current economic realities, what would people be willing and able to buy). What we discovered is laid out in this report to revolve around the PEOPLE, the FARM economy, and the FOOD situation in each county. OUR FINDINGS. Using surveys, facilitated workshops and conversations we discovered how diverse, and bounteous this region is, as well as under-resourced and in need of specific, community-based activity, and broad collaboration and vision around food system integration and development. Three of the four counties are classified as frontier counties, complete with "food deserts". People with resources and transportation are generally well-fed, but co-exist with pockets of under-nourished, hungry or potentially insecure individuals and communities disadvantaged by the current trend of procuring food from distant sources and loss of local opportunity. And while cash receipts to farmers are generally high, they are still earning less than they did in the 1970's, affecting every aspect of this predominantly rural agricultural region. The top three identified needs were for: 1) Expanded, more accessible and affordable year-round local food resources, including gardens, farm stands and markets, emergency resources and retail options; 2) Increased education and skills around growing, cooking, gardening, nutrition, shopping and hunting/harvesting (in that order) for all sectors of the community; and 3) Strengthened community and regional networking, marketing and infrastructural development. OUTCOMES. From this initial exploration, two first-ever regional Food & Farm Guides were produced to market and stimulate purchases from local growers. The food assessment team helped facilitate shared purpose, and vision, and identify assets in each community, raising the capacity of individuals and groups to take direct action on their own behalf. Each county received five to seven recommendations or "Opportunities" that were similar but reflected specific needs, strengths and assets present their communities, and food and farming systems. Next steps include the support of local champions and food groups, local purchasing options, regional networks and action plans. All of which help to develop food awareness, appropriate alternative local and regional production and marketing opportunities, food system infrastructure and other synergistic local food projects. The hope is that this work will be reviewed, renewed and acted upon in regular intervals by the residents of each County, leading to increased funding, resource development and project implementation helping communities in this region move from surviving to thriving. "Food is our common ground, a universal experience." - James Beard Page | 1 From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam, Morrow, Umatilla &Wheeler Counties, Oregon
  • 8. our food system. This community food security INTRODUCTION movement is working towards building strong THE FOOD SYSTEM. The United States is and resilient food systems through innovative one of the wealthiest countries in the world, yet and diverse community partnerships. accessing enough healthy, fresh food to meet basic nutritional needs is a critical issue faced by Community food security is defined as “all millions of Americans. There are a number of citizens are able to obtain a safe, personally reasons for food insecurity in the United States, acceptable, nutritious diet through a sustainable the primary causes being lack of employment food system that maximizes healthy choices, opportunities, low wages and increases in the community self-reliance and equal access for cost of living, energy and health care. But to everyone” (Hamm & Bellows, 2003). A food truly understand food insecurity, one must system can be broadly described as all of the recognize the vital role the structure of food processes involved with feeding people. It system plays. Over the last 50 years our food includes growing, harvesting, processing, system has become increasingly global in its distributing, obtaining, consuming and disposing extent, leading to the industrialization and of food. These processes, in addition to the consolidation of agriculture and all the social and cultural characteristics of a components of our food delivery system, and the community and relevant government policies, decline of small, embedded local farms, ranches, define a food system. and the food facilities and infrastructure that Food security exists when all people have brings food from the field to the table. This physical, social and economic access at all times leaves Americans and their food supply to sufficient, safe and nutritious food that meets vulnerable to forces beyond their control. The their dietary needs and food preferences for an loss of vibrant, local food systems and the day- active and healthy life via non-emergency to-day reality of people’s inability to afford food sources. It also means that food is produced, have a significant impact on a secure, processed and distributed in ways that respect sustainable, safe food source - e.g. food security and protect the environment and workers who or insecurity - throughout the country. produce it. Food insecurity is a lack of Isolation and the lack of local food system sufficient food and proper nutrition, and covers a infrastructure paired with persistent poverty and broad spectrum of hunger-related feelings and unemployment plague rural east-central Oregon behaviors, including fear of going hungry, and and have made food insecurity a critical issue the resulting, often compromised choices people faced by many people throughout Gilliam, make to meet basic food and health needs. Morrow, Umatilla and Wheeler Counties. COMMUNITY FOOD COMMUNITY FOOD SECURITY ASSESSMENT Few people know where their food comes from, To overcome the narrow scope of conventional the conditions under which it is grown and food security work, the Community Food raised or how it gets to the supermarket shelves. Assessment (CFA) has emerged as a research While the disconnect between producers and method to provide a more holistic and consumers continues to grow, many people comprehensive approach to understanding and across the country are working towards creative, improving food security at local and regional localized solutions to the current problems with levels. A Community Food Assessment is Page | 2 From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam, Morrow, Umatilla &Wheeler Counties, Oregon
  • 9. defined as “a collaborative and participatory the movement toward a more localized, locally- process that systematically examines a broad controlled and chosen food system. range of community food issues and assets, so as to inform change actions to make the community Recommendations that emerged for each county more food secure” (Pothukuchi, Joseph, Burton, relate to the expansion of the following four & Fisher, 2002). elements of health, wealth, connections and capacity-building. A CFA tells the story of what is happening with food in a community using varied and diverse In the long view, no nation is healthier than its methods. A CFA can help highlight the children, or more prosperous than its farmers". connections between the various sectors of a Harry Truman food system including production, processing, distribution, storage, consumption and disposal. It is a powerful tool to explore a range of food HEALTH. Our CFA revealed a great need to system issues, to provide opportunities for broad attend to health in all contexts. Nutritional data community involvement and to create positive, showed that, regardless of age and income lasting change. levels, health trends are in declining, and in particular, more obese and/or malnourished One way to define the success of a CFA is the seniors and children, higher rates of diabetes, degree to which it inspires the re-localization of and other weight-related diseases prevalent in the food and farming system, in a way that the region. People here have expressed interest allows individuals and communities to in improving the health of themselves, their participate and have more control over this basic families and communities, as well as the health need. With that comes several other tangible of the farms and farm land they depend on. benefits: improved health, wealth, connection and community capacity, as described below. Health in the context of local food and farm systems often leads to the question of "sustainability"- sustainable communities, OUR ASSESSMENT agriculture, nature and the economy. We were This CFA, From Our Roots, focused on the food unable to address the wealth of the natural and farming situations in Gilliam, Morrow, systems on which farming is built, though many Umatilla and Wheeler Counties in east central other organizations have. Water, soil, species Oregon. diversity and energy are critical, variable and changing around the region - sunlight and aridity THE 3 A's. We explored three criteria: might be the main common denominators!.. Our Availability (is food grown, processed and bottom line is that, ultimately, sustainability is distributed locally); Access (how and where about health - the on-going long-term health of people can obtain local food); and Affordability the people, their food and lifestyles, living in (given current economic realities, what would enriched and adaptable environments with vital people be willing and able to buy). living economies and communities. Sustainable Very importantly, the term "local food" is used food and farming can be built upon the "triple in two ways: food not from a specific bottom-line" values of creating healthy people, geographically defined area, but that which planet and profits. travels the shortest distance possible from farmer's field to consumer's fork; and to identify Page | 3 From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam, Morrow, Umatilla &Wheeler Counties, Oregon
  • 10. WEALTH. Economically speaking, cash vehicles, roads and paths evolved to serve receipts to farmers are generally high, but they different needs, from the human scale of foot- are still earning less than they did in the 1970's, and bicycles to the global scale sea and sky affecting every aspect of this predominantly traffic. A diversified food system would rural agricultural region. To overcome rural optimally mimic that multi-scaled system, or an insecurities, job creation is a priority, and environmental system, based on organically resuming greater control of the region's most on- evolving webs of interaction between many going, basic need for food builds naturally on different kinds of organisms and their the strengths, traditions and renewed environment, adapting for need, through appreciation for eating home-grown food. We communication with each entity along the way. recognize, and heard a lot about, the value and wealth generated by large-scale production The connections made during this Community agriculture in the region. We also learned that, Food Assessment are just the beginning of the where feasible, "local food" presents an redevelopment of a local communication additional, very valuable option in terms of network for many communities. With each increased economic value, diversity and social gathering or introduction creative conversations benefits to rural agro-economies. "Agri- and solutions developed as people shared their preneurialism" and "economic gardening" are stories, dreams, memories and challenges of recognized tools for diversifying the economy, food and farming. We heard the conversation and improving local wage and employment shift away from the top-down corporate-driven opportunities. food chain which removes food from the farm, and control from producers and consumers, a Our conclusions focused on the presence or toward a more self-directed, locally-controlled possibilities of a more diversified, small-scale, concept of a food web or network of interaction food and farming economy to expand and and connection. Before our very eyes, farmers compliment larger-scale, export-focused and customers of all sizes created relationships, production. This CFA identified significant processes, partnerships and new products, interest and participation in farm-direct meeting basic needs, generating ideas and production, marketing and purchasing in all four sharing risks. The social system (if rich in counties, which will be discussed in subsequent connections and "social capital") provides the chapters. basis for financial capital development; increased connectivity promotes increased CONNECTION. Connections make our world adaptability and creativity. Deeper, more work, creatively, efficiently, adaptively. diverse connections expand the capacity for growth, change, resilience and success. “You have to look at connections. Our society runs on systems.” In other words, CAPACITY-BUILDING - The Gilliam County resident ultimate goal of our community-based food assessment is to expand a community's ability to Our world is not built on A linear chain of take care of itself. In this case, to grow not just interaction but networks and webs of interaction the food supply, but new leaders, relationships, between entities of many sizes. To use a and resources. A community with healthy sense familiar model, our transportation system - of itself, its diversity and commonalities, its comprised of many different sizes of feet and limitations and strengths, has the ability to create opportunities to adapt and thrive, meeting the Page | 4 From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam, Morrow, Umatilla &Wheeler Counties, Oregon
  • 11. human, economic and cultural needs of its residents over time. The ultimate blessing of developing and sustaining a healthy local food system is that we grow more than food - we also grow Community. ABOUT THIS REPORT HOW WE DID IT. From September 2009 to July 2010 interviews and community meetings were conducted throughout Gilliam, Morrow, Umatilla and Wheeler Counties. Numerous stakeholder meetings and five FEASTs were conducted in three of the four counties. A "FEAST" - shortened from the words Food- Education-Agriculture Solutions Together- is a structured meeting designed by organizers at the Oregon Food Bank to bring together local food stakeholders for discussion and solution creation. Additionally, four focus groups were conducted in the communities of Arlington, Fossil, Mitchell and Spray. Input was also gathered via a consumer and producer survey that was open to all residents in the four-county area. FORMAT. Information for each county is organized and analyzed separately and divided into three general topic areas: People, Agriculture and Food. These broad headings addressed the issues uncovered by the Community Food Assessment, from historical perspectives to the present day. We tried to capture what was, what is, and what might be about food, food systems, farming, hunger, long and short-term challenges and opportunities. See Methodology, Chapter 7, for more information on the study design and implementation and report development. Page | 5 From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam, Morrow, Umatilla &Wheeler Counties, Oregon
  • 12. CHAPTER 1—THE FOODSHED ALL SYSTEMS GO. A "food system" is made up of all the cultural beliefs, technical elements and physical activities that serve to grow, deliver, sell, consume and dispose of food. It includes everyone from the farmers, to grocers, consumers, marketers, distributors, transporters, policy-makers and all who participates in getting food from the field to the fork. A "foodshed" is all that plus the physical region and natural resource base from which the food is produced. The American foodshed ("foodprint") The region has a varying climate, but is is presently very large - global, in fact. Our food generally arid; except for increases in is produced in and shipped from every corner of precipitation along the foothills of the Blue and the Earth. Food security or insecurity stems Ochoco Mountains most of the region is affected from the amount of control over quantity and by the rain shadow effect of the Cascade quality of food that is available to people and Mountains. As weather fronts move eastward communities. In the U.S., despite the appearance across Oregon much of the precipitation occurs of plenty, we are subject to global, multi- on the west slopes of the Cascades leaving little national, climactic, political and economic precipitation for the counties east of the fluctuations, with very little control at the local mountains. This is particularly true for the level. Increased amounts of food produced and uplands of Gilliam, Morrow and western distributed in a more localized foodshed are Umatilla Counties. Areas that abut the Blue seen as one way to increase food security. Mountains, or lie within the Umatilla and John Day River flood plains benefit from their NATURAL RESOURCE BASE. The four captured moisture, lower temperatures, counties of east central Oregon - Gilliam, precipitation and surface water. These Morrow, Umatilla and Wheeler - encompass a conditions feed the soil, waterways and crops, large area south of the Columbia River and north creating important diversity in climate, crop and west of the Blue Mountains. It is a region types and quantities. rich in history; it is the homeland of the Cayuse, Northern Paiute, Umatilla, Walla Walla and The Columbia River is the largest river in the Warm Springs tribes and original tracks from the Northwest. It makes up the northern boundary of overland migration along the Oregon Trail are Gilliam County, Morrow County and part of still visible in many places. The Columbia Umatilla County. It plays a central role in the Plateau is also rich in its agricultural activity. culture, economy and politics of the region. It is Farming and ranching were two of the original used for irrigation, power generation and a economic mainstays of white settlement. They major transportation corridor. It is particularly continue to play a critical role in the region. The important for transportation as the Columbia physical landmass for this CFA is depicted in Plateau is the largest wheat producing region in the above map, and is comprised of the four the state and much of the wheat crop is shipped counties in CAPECO's food-related service area. down the Columbia on barges. Page | 6 From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam, Morrow, Umatilla &Wheeler Counties, Oregon
  • 13. CHAPTER 2—GILLIAM COUNTY WHEAT FIELDS AND WINDMILLS IN GILLIAM COUNTY Introduction incorporated communities—Arlington, Condon and Lonerock. The most residents within the Located in the heart of the Columbia Plateau County live in Arlington or Condon. region, Gilliam County was historically important as a transportation corridor for the The climate varies throughout the County, but it region’s Native American tribes traveling to and is generally an arid region. Precipitation varies from fishing, hunting, gathering and trading from an average of 9 inches in Arlington to 14 grounds. The first white settlers to the region inches a year in Condon (Taylor, 2000). Strong came through on the Oregon Trail and, in the winds are common in the Columbia River late 19th century, began to put down roots in Gorge, as evidenced by the wind mills Gilliam County. blanketing large swaths of northern Gilliam County. Gilliam County is bounded by the Columbia River to the north, the John Day River to the It is the second least populous county in Oregon, west and the foothills of the Blue Mountains to after Wheeler County to the south, with only the southeast. Much of the county sits high atop 1,645 people living within its borders (Indicators the Plateau; it ranges in elevation of over 3,000 Northwest, 2009). This low population density feet near Condon down to 285 feet at Arlington gives Gilliam County, and all the counties that on the Columbia River. There are three From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam County, OR Page | 7
  • 14. surround it, the designation of a frontier county Since 2000 Gilliam County has lost -14.1% of (Frontier Education Center, 1998). its population, the second highest rate of loss in the state of Oregon. What is particularly Gilliam County’s primary economic drivers are concerning about the decreasing population is agriculture, construction, government services that nearly all of it (-12%) is attributed to out- and waste management. Agriculture is the top migration; people moving out of the County employment sector with 16.2% of the workforce (Indicators Northwest, 2009). employed in agriculture. A close second is construction, employing 16% of the workforce Out-migration is a serious issue in rural (Indicators Northwest, 2008). This is an increase communities. There is much documentation on of over 5% from 2007, due to the recent large the ripple effects of out migration and the impact increase in wind energy development. it can have on the economy and community. When rural communities lose critical services, Gilliam County’s economy is diversified to a residents have to drive to other service centers in greater degree than many of its neighbors. By the region and while there, often do all of their the numbers, it appears to be more stable and shopping, exporting much needed income and likely to have food secure individuals and wealth to the urban areas and leaving our rural communities. Conversations with people areas wondering what happened and where it throughout the County revealed that that went. assumption is not necessarily completely accurate. With the wealth generated from the Traveling and talking with residents with people industries within its borders Gilliam County throughout the County uncovered stories of appears to be well situated and capable of people struggling to make ends meet, and having purposeful conversations about food and oftentimes going without meals or foregoing farm opportunities that benefit its residents, and medical care just to make ends meet each month. increase food security at the individual and Senior citizens, in particular, were identified as a community level. vulnerable group. So, while on the surface it appears that Gilliam County does not have many People issues, the reality of not knowing where the next By the numbers, Gilliam County seems to have meal is coming from exists for some residents. few of the issues that most counties east of the “Seniors have the choice of eating or being Cascades confront on a regular basis. While it has some of the lowest unemployment and warm.” Condon resident poverty rates in the state, several themes arose in that are of concern; Gilliam County is losing It is an aging population; there are lots of senior population, the population is aging, has a lack of citizens. 23.4% of the County population is 65 job opportunities, underemployment, lack of years and older, the 4th highest rate in the state. opportunities for youth and isolation. There was concern about this trend by nearly every one interviewed. While many of these For a snap shot of information and statistics seniors are well taken care of, there were stories please see 'ADDRESSING HUNGER in Gilliam of shut-ins, widows and people living alone on County, 2009, page 13. fixed incomes and uncertainty of how they were living and feeding themselves. From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam County, OR Page | 8
  • 15. Another consideration is the aging population is landfills on the northern end of the County the importance of volunteers in the communities. receive large amounts of waste from throughout Most volunteers are retired and/or senior the Pacific Northwest. Yet as the national citizens, leaving many services performed by economy slowed, so did the waste coming into volunteers to be manned by a aging and the landfills. People are buying less so they’re dwindling populations. Both Arlington and throwing away less. An increase in recycling has Condon echoed the importance of volunteers to also affected the landfills, resulting in less sustain efforts and services, particularly for activity and less money flowing into the County. those in need. Yet, as volunteers age there is concern for the future sustainability of efforts Hundreds of jobs have been created to build the that are critical to community functions and wind farms, but many of the employees come supports. In Condon, we were told that they from outside of the region. Furthermore, many “don’t have the volunteers to sustain services of the jobs are short-term construction jobs. So now needed.” And in Arlington food pantry outside of agriculture, waste management, wind volunteers believe that “this town would come to development and government services there are screeching halt without volunteerism.” These are very few jobs to be had in Gilliam County. important things to consider as the population Many residents piece together multiple jobs to continues to age. make ends meet. One resident of Arlington expressed her frustration at the difficulty finding “I would love to go back to work.” and retaining full time employment; “I kept a Arlington focus group participant job because of my tenacity.” Under-employment is a common occurrence in Gilliam County also has one of the lowest rates rural communities, but not nearly as visible or of population under the age of 18 in the state. discussed as unemployment. Many people work This was echoed by many people interviewed; temporary or part time service industry jobs. one young mother described Condon as “a These are the jobs that rarely come with benefits family town, there is history here.” Yet, there are such as health insurance and retirement, assuring fewer young families and children and many the issues will only get more difficult over time. attribute this trend to the lack of job opportunities in the County. There was much conjecture about the unemployment rate being so low because there are no jobs, so people leave or do not move to Gilliam County, keeping the population rates low in a vicious cycle. WEALTH. In June 2010 its unemployment rate of 7.0% was the lowest in the state (Worksource Oregon, 2010). Yet stories of a slowing economy and underemployment were common. CONDON CHILDCARE GARDEN - "GROWING MINDS"! Waste management services are an important Another issue concerning many residents is the sector of Gilliam County’s economy. The lack of opportunities and activities for youth. County levies a fee on the waste and uses it to And specific to food, many people raised the support property tax payments for residents and concern that youth need to be educated on funds county projects. Two waste disposal growing and raising food and the importance of From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam County, OR Page | 9
  • 16. good nutrition. While Condon has an active FFA visits to the food pantry, community meals and program that started a garden at the high school social activities that are beneficial for health. last year, Arlington does not. This is not One rural resident told us that “I can do a lot of surprising as many communities and schools stretching” but the existing services don’t have lost agriculture educational opportunities necessarily cover the entire month. This may over time. It is an important outlet for youth mean going without critical services, such a though, and there is interest in bringing it back. medical attention, as well. “Our kids around here have nothing to do. If Many of these people are on SNAP, but their you don’t play sports you’re flat out of luck.” food supply often dwindles by the end of the Gilliam County employee month and they have to use the food pantry. This is a common and regular occurrence. As one social service worker explained “emergency HEALTH. The Center for Disease Control (US food has become a regular, sustaining food Dept. of Health and Human Services) tracked source for many pantry clients.” Gilliam County residents' increasing rates of diabetes and obesity between 2004 and 2007. “Not being able to provide for your family is The numbers rose, from 6.6% to 6.9%, and a very personal thing.” 23.4% to 26.1% respectively. Thankfully, Condon resident education for everyone in the community was also identified as an important next step. The two most sought after education opportunities While this need is a source of embarrassment for identified in the consumer survey were nutrition many working families, it is also the reality of (36%) and gardening (32%). This was seconded living in remote and isolated rural communities by many people that were interviewed. Pantry without ready access to fresh, healthy local food volunteers in both Arlington and Condon sources. It is difficult to get those in need tied stressed the need to educate their clients in meal into the service net and we were told that school planning and preparation. While the food pantry employees “have to hound families to sign up volunteers and clients would like to see more for free- and reduced-price lunches for their fresh products, they don’t necessarily have children.” Echoing this sentiment, DHS supplies to cook with and don’t know how to employee told of families struggling to keep cook it. food in the fridge yet not utilizing SNAP. Lastly, an issue that has already been touched on Agriculture but is an important consideration in this work is From the beginning of white settlement, the vulnerability of population groups, or entire agriculture has been central to culture and the communities, living in isolation in rural areas. economy of Gilliam County. The earliest settlers Gilliam is a "frontier" county (fewer than 6 brought cattle with them over the Oregon Trail people per square mile), with food sources more and planted grains that were suited to the dry than ten miles from many homes and towns. climate. There were also “many good fruit Many of locals shop at the local grocery stores orchards” within the County (Fourth State of because they don’t have the ability to drive to Oregon Biennial Report, 1911, p.130). larger towns where groceries may be cheaper. Grain and cattle remain the mainstays of Transportation is an issue throughout the region. agriculture in Gilliam County, while the Many folks shared that they may also forego orchards that once existed have all but vanished. From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam County, OR Page | 10
  • 17. Wheat is the principal crop; there are over There was concern expressed by a number of 97,000 acres planted. Barley and cattle are also people interviewed that the family structure of important contributors to the agricultural farms is changing as well; farmers continue to economy. The sale of grains, oilseeds, dry beans get older and the average age is now 59.5 years. and dry peas is valued at nearly $25 million and Many residents also expressed concern that it is cattle and calf sales are valued at $6.4 million a difficult for the next generation to stay on the year (Census of Agriculture, 2007). farm. It is much more likely that these farms supported multiple generations in the past than Gilliam County has 164 farms with an average they do today. Inheriting the farm or starting out size of just over 4,200 acres; the second largest as a beginning farmer is fraught with financial average in the state (Census of Agriculture, complexities and oftentimes insurmountable 2007). While there is anecdotal evidence to barriers. suggest that there is a trend of fewer people “The era of kids working on farms is a thing farming larger acreages, there are 10 more farms today than there were in 1987 and they are, on of the past.” Gilliam County employee average, 800 acres smaller (Highlights of Gilliam County Grocer Agriculture, 1992 & 1987). In 1984 the Conservation Reserve Program (which pays farmers to move sensitive and fragile lands from productive to protection FARMS IN GILLIAM COUNTY status) was implemented. As one resident 164 farms on 733,387 acres. shared, it has had long lasting effects on the Estimated value of land and building per agricultural economy in Gilliam County. A BY THE NUMBERS farm is $2.0 million and $443 per great deal of land was taken out of production to acre. be placed in the program. This resulted in the Total production expenses in the loss of agricultural infrastructure including feed, county is $28 million; average fuel, and maintenance businesses. Losing these production expenses per farm is businesses and the infrastructure, jobs and $171,271 and $38 per acre. income that came with them, she shared, was Total net cash income in the county is damaging and had unmeasured impacts on the $17 million; average of $104,719 regional economy. As noted below, wind per farm and $23 per acre. farming could have a similar effect. Gilliam County and its farmers have not sat idly It is important to note though, that this data does by as time and circumstances have changed not tell the complete story of the changing face around them though. There are several groups of farming in Gilliam County. While the average working within the county to change the system size of farms has decreased over time, many of how wheat is grown and marketed. One of the farms have indeed grown in size. This does not successes highlighted by many is the Gilliam equate to increased income for the farmer County Grain Quality Laboratory. Located near though. As one resident suggested; when farms Arlington, the Laboratory works to increase the get bigger, they “are not more lucrative, there viability and success of local growers by helping are not greater margins by expanding; it takes them value to their products. more inputs and is more expensive.” A more recent means of income generation on farm land in Gilliam County is revenue from From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam County, OR Page | 11
  • 18. wind development. Many farmers receive lease more than a few plants. It is more than just water payments from wind companies for the wind scarcity that affects growing conditions though, mills placed on their land. While these lease the varying climate plays a large role as well. payments have helped some farmers, others The longest growing seasons are in Arlington shared that they have served more as a stopgap and along a few lower elevation creeks. Condon and didn’t necessarily increased the farm’s and much of the county are at a high elevation income. As one farmer explained, wind benefits and therefore experience higher fluctuations in help the land owner because it “puts stability temperatures and are more likely to have a under the farm”. This is not necessarily an killing frost in late spring and early fall. increase in the expendable income, but it can keep the farm from going further into debt. ALTERNATIVE AG. These limitations appear Land lease revenues will also allow some to be the main reasons that there are very few farmers to retire, which might diminish the total farmers growing for a local market. The U.S. amount of land under cultivation, or related Agriculture Census data (2007) counted seven agro-economic activities in the county. Gilliam farms that grow fruits and vegetables on an unknown number of acres. We were not able Gilliam County grows an enormous amount of to find them during our investigation. Just a few food, far more than the county or state people were identified in the course of this consumes. While large scale, export-based project that grow or raise food to sell directly to conventional agriculture is a strength of Gilliam consumers within the region - several ranchers County and is critical to its economy, it doesn’t sell live or on the hoof, a blueberry grower and a feed the people that live within its borders. niche market wheat farmer direct-market to customers. Even the regular produce vendor at the Condon Community Farmers’ Market last year is not from Gilliam County, but came up every month from Wheeler County. Market supporters explain that it is “difficult getting local growers; sometimes we struggle to get just one vendor.” This lack of a locally or regionally focused food system leaves Gilliam County vulnerable to forces beyond their control, but also presents an GILLIAM COUNTY WHEAT FIELDS opportunity as consumers expressed interest in buying more locally produced food. It is not easy to grow crops Gilliam County, especially produce. In this arid region, water Food scarcity is a serious limiting factor. In Condon wells have to be drilled hundreds of feet to reach The lack of locally-focused food and farm water. And while Arlington was described as the activities and resources in Gilliam County is “banana belt” of the county, watering when the concerning when viewed through the lens of wind is blowing, which is much of the time, was food security. There is very little food locally described as foolish. Not only is watering grown available, yet there are several important difficult because of these factors, but those on pieces of the food system still funtioning. city water shared that it is too expensive to grow From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam County, OR Page | 12
  • 19. EMERGENCY FOOD. Nearly 70% of Gilliam Grocery stores in both towns accept SNAP and County residents live in Arlington and Condon WIC benefits. The Condon Community and thus have good access to a relatively stable Farmers’ Market has a vendor that accepts food supply. Both towns have a food pantry and FDNP coupons and WIC vouchers. Outside of functioning grocery stores. Residents are these sources, there are no other markets to fortunate to have this level of access to food; it access food in Gilliam County. is better than that of many of the surrounding communities in the region. The remaining 30% “Big stores out of town are the biggest of residents are not as fortunate though, as they threat.” Gilliam County grocer have to travel to access food supplies and other services. The issues faced by rural independent grocers need to be better understood and more The pantries in Arlington and Condon are open thoughtfully considered by community one day a month. Combined, they served 742 members. There were many complaints about emergency food boxes last year to 3090 people, shopping in local stores including “when you a 9% increase from 2008.There were stories of shop in town you have to get the stuff that is people missing the once-per-month distribution cheap; the fruits and vegetables are too day because of time, travel and other conflicts expensive.” Another consumer went so far as to and challenges. Perhaps the two food pantries say, “When we shop here it costs an arm and a might explore being open more than one day a leg.” month to make it easier for clients to access food. Higher price are typically the reality of shopping in rural grocery stores, and Gilliam County is no GROCERY STORES. Rural grocery stores exception. These stores face barriers that chain have received much coverage and recognition in stores in large towns and along transportation recent years. Many communities have lost their corridors do not. In all of the interviews, Two grocery stores or have stores that are not Boys was described as the exception; many responsive to community members. This is people do the majority of their shopping there. distressing because grocery stores are often the There were even stories of people from Fossil cornerstones of viable downtown or commercial coming to Condon to shop. The hard work and districts and if they fail, many other businesses commitment to high quality products and are at risk of failure as well. Vulnerable competitive prices were cited as reasons for their populations are put at more risk as well because success. As one resident voice, “as far as fruit they may not have a car, the time or money to and veggies go, you can’t beat them.” travel to towns far away to buy groceries. There are opportunities for growth in the retail Arlington has Thrifty Foods and Condon has sector in Gilliam County. One store owner two grocery stores, B & C Grocery and Two shared that “[residents] don’t realize that if Boys Meat and Grocery. All of these stores are another 25% of the population shopped here independently owned and operated. Each plays we’d build a bigger store. But they don’t think an important role in their local economy, like that.” Most people are driving to The providing access to food, stability for the local Dalles, Hermiston or Tri Cities for groceries. business environment and providing jobs. Interestingly, we learned that Two Boys is the When asked where residents get the majority of largest private employer in Condon. their food, after grocery stores, 56% of the From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam County, OR Page | 13
  • 20. consumer survey respondents said “sit-down food needs. Several people believe that there are restaurant” and “grow it or raise it”. Although it policy and regulation changes that need to be was generally agreed that people don’t have implemented to increase the consumption of money to eat out anymore, and restaurants are wild foods, but most survey respondents (48%) hurting because of it. Arlington is the exception were interested in identifying, cooking and as there has been a large influx of workers preserving educational opportunities. building Shepherds Flat Wind Farm, a project that will be the largest land-based wind farm in So while there are good things happening around the world when it is completed. the local food economy, the number one reason (95%) why people in Gilliam County don’t buy “Nothing is more rewarding than to plant a local food is that is it not available. Exploring seed and watch it grow and produce.” and supporting community-focused food and Rural county resident farm opportunities should be a next step for the communities. There was much interest in increasing the production of local food, and the Growing and raising food for personal survey revealed that the top two things that consumption appears to be very important to the Gilliam County residents want are community people in Gilliam County. Many people still gardens and farmers’ markets. grow their own food, but not without difficulty because of water scarcity, the price of water in the city and the climatic conditions. In Condon, another looming issue is the outdated city water system. It may need to be completely replaced in 10-15 years and could have untold effects on availability and cost of water for city residents Historically, animals were raised for personal consumption, but it is no longer a common practice. A policy issue that arose was the inability of residents to raise animals within Condon city limits. Gilliam County has always CONDON COMMUNITY FARMERS’ MARKET been indelibly linked to agriculture, yet several residents expressed their disappointment in not People want more fresh local food and it’s time being able to raise animals for themselves. for the County to come together and assure that there is more access to food for everyone within “I can’t even have a chicken in my backyard. the county no matter where they live or how You can have a chicken in downtown much money they have. Portland, but not in Condon.” For a snap shot of food and hunger statistics Condon “farming girl” please see "ADDRESSING HUNGER IN GILLIAM COUNTY (2009)", next page. Hunting and fishing are important food sources in Gilliam County. Fifty-six percent of survey respondents consider hunting, fishing or harvesting of wild food to be “somewhat” or “very” important to meeting their household From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam County, OR Page | 14
  • 21. ADDRESSING HUNGER in Gilliam County, 2009 GILLIAM COUNTY Oregon  In these hard economic times, many more people are hungry, especially children and seniors.  Federal food programs can help feed people and provide economic stimulus for local economies.  Gilliam County could bring in millions more federal dollars by reaching more eligible people. School Lunches, Breakfast, & SNAP/ Food Stamps Summer Meals In 2008 ~  146 people received SNAP/food stamps per month in Gilliam County.  $145,977 federal dollars were brought into the local economy. If all eligible people were enrolled in SNAP, Gilliam County would have received an additional $122,879 dollars each month in federal money and 171 additional people would have received help putting food on the table. In 2008 ~42.9% of all students were eligible for free HOW YOU CAN HELP and reduced price meals in Gilliam County. Of those who ate lunch:  Support public policies that help low-income  51% received school breakfast. people meet their basic needs.  None ate meals through the Summer Food  Support efforts to reach more people through Program. federal food assistance programs. If all who were eligible for free or reduced price lunch  Refer to the Act to End Hunger for more were served, Gilliam County would have received an ideas to address hunger in your county. For specific information additional $10,485 in federal dollars a year and fed an visitwww.oregonhunger.org additional 24 eligible low-income children. Women, Infants & Emergency Farm Direct Afterschool Children Program (WIC0*) Food Assistance Nutrition Program Meals & Snacks In 2008, WIC served 7,072 In 2008, 680 food boxes Seniors and WIC families During the 2007/08 school pregnant or breast- provided emergency food redeemed $0 in the county year, 0 suppers were feeding women, infants to help families make ends to buy fresh produce in served in high need areas. and children * under five, meet. 2008. Coupons may have representing 45% of all been redeemed in nearby pregnant women (compared counties * WIC data for Gilliam County cannot be extracted from Umatilla – Marrow Head Start data to 40% statewide average). Gilliam County Demographic Information Total Population: 1,885 Children 0-18 years: 401  People in Poverty: 209 (11.1%)  Children in Poverty: 69 or (17.1%) From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam County, OR Page | 15
  • 22. opportunities for youth to stay or return are CONCLUSION critical for the future health and wealth of their When viewed through the lens of food security, communities. Gilliam County faces some serious issues. Yet these issues are not unique to this county alone; “Perseverance is something that we’ve many of the food availability, accessibility and really lost.” Gilliam County farmer affordability issues they face are common across eastern Oregon. In order to increase self-sufficiency and food For well over a hundred years wheat has been security for all residents and at the community central to culture and the economy of Gilliam level many solutions were identified by the County. An enormous amount of wheat is grown residents of Gilliam County. Many are hopeful, within the County, and it is indelibly linked to yet recognize that to truly made headway that global export markets. Yet, while this is a great “people have to begin to think differently and economic strength, very little food is grown long term.” This is beginning to happen around within the County for local consumption. Most food. of the food consumed comes in on truck from The opportunities outlined next incorporate places far away. many of those ideas offered throughout our Gilliam County has the lowest unemployment interviews, meetings and focus groups in rate in Oregon, a statistic of which many are Arlington, Condon and the County. The people proud. Yet stories shared with us revealed that that live within these communities are best the reality on the ground is much different than prepared to know what solutions are most what the numbers tell. Gilliam County is in a achievable and needed, which is why most of the steady population decline and the average age of action steps outlined here of from the residents, and farmers, continues to grow. This community themselves. As it was so well put by was a great concern of many of those we spoke one rural resident, “we have to do it ourselves; it with because they realize that having has to come from here.” From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam County, OR Page | 16
  • 23. OPPORTUNITIES IN GILLIAM COUNTY Recommendation 1: Increase outreach and networking around local food and farm opportunities. 1. Establish a communication and support network to facilitate the sharing of ideas and resources. 2. Connect with regional and state networks to further community food and farm efforts. 3. Develop and implement a public education campaign on the benefits of healthy eating habits and a local food system. Recommendation 2: Expand educational opportunities for community members. 1. Identify, and distribute cooking and meal planning materials at food pantries. 2. Identify, and coordinate with gardening and agricultural education resources to increase gardening and agricultural entrepreneurial skills. 3. Identify and coordinate with current nutrition educators and experts to implement projects to increase understanding and the practice of healthy eating habits. 4. Identify existing, or develop educational resources to build knowledge about hunting, fishing and harvesting wild foods; specific areas might include identification, cooking, preservation, rights and responsibilities. Recommendation 3: Explore and support community-focused food and farm opportunities, ideas and resources. 1. Recognize community and economic development through local food as a legitimate strategy. 2. Encourage the development of community gardens, and the success and expansion of existing gardens. 3. Identify and consider small scale production strategies. 4. Encourage development of more local food and farm entrepreneurial opportunities, specifically CSAs, farm stands, meat slaughter and processing, U-pick and value-added enterprises. Recommendation 4: Increase the number of venues featuring local or regionally produced food. 1. Establish, expand and support farmers’ markets as a way to provide regular access to fresh, local or regional food. 2. Explore interest in farm-to-school programs, and establish where feasible. 3. Identify institutional food purchasers and engage and educate them about purchasing locally or regionally produced food. From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam County, OR Page | 17
  • 24. 4. Increase the amount of local or regionally produced food available in grocery stores and restaurants. Recommendation 5: Ensure regular access to a stable fresh food supply for all citizens year-round. 1. Increase the amount of fresh food available at food pantries. 2. Establish FDNP and WIC Fruit and Veggie Voucher retailers in every community. 3. Increase knowledge and understanding of the SNAP program. 4. Establish programs that feed children including summer lunch, fresh snacks, breakfast, dinner and weekend meals. 5. Ensure that food is considered in the County emergency management plans. 6. Establish appropriate gleaning options at all levels of the food system, when and wherever possible. From Our Roots: The People, Agriculture & Food of Gilliam County, OR Page | 18
  • 25. CHAPTER 3—MORROW COUNTY HAYFIELDS AND WINDMILLS IN NORTH MORROW COUNTY Introduction county - which receive approximately 8 inches annually. Land of sunshine, deep soils and minimal water, this county has provided rich hunting, gathering, Morrow is the second largest in both population grazing and farming opportunities for centuries. and land mass of the four counties in this study, It comprises the southern-most edge of the and boasts five incorporated towns, seven Columbia Plateau, and the western-most portion unincorporated towns, and the ghost town of of the Confederated Umatilla Tribes Ceded Hardman. Of the 11,553 county residents, just Lands, with treaty- protected rights of use to this over 7,000 are counted as residents in the day. It is now home to residents of all stripes and incorporated towns. This leaves another four colors, employed largely in food and farming- thousand individuals living in very rural or based economic activities and lifestyles. unincorporated areas, perhaps far from food and community resources. The County population Like its neighbors to the south and south-west has fluctuated up and down by approximately (Gilliam, Grant and Wheeler), "rugged county" 10% over the past decade. But overall, in is both the official and informal motto of this contrast to the other counties, it has almost county, and it is well-earned. High rolling and tripled in population the past 30 years. wind-swept hills bisected with deep furrowed canyons create a sense of both expansiveness Approximately half of the county's residents live and seclusion. On its south flank rise the Blue in the two northern towns of Irrigon and Mountains, supplying up to 16 inches of Boardman. These towns are connected by three precipitation per year to land and out-flowing enormous transportation systems - the Columbia streams. This is twice the amount of rainfall River, transcontinental rail lines and the received in the central and north sections of the Interstate highway. These arterials provide in- From Our Roots: The People Agriculture & Food of Morrow County, OR Page | 19
  • 26. and outflow of goods and people, an ebb and Boardman, two gas-fired plants at the Port, flow of money and opportunities that form the geothermal and even methane digesters. And as basis of a lucrative port and transport-based in other wind-swept high Plateau counties, you export economy. Perhaps because of these will now see giant windmills tilting at a new physical connections, the communities and kind of energy. individuals of the north relate more closely to their eastern Umatilla neighbors, with whom People they share many similarities in climate, The people of Morrow County have come from demographics and agricultural opportunities. all walks of life and all parts of the world. The dryer southern half of Morrow, in contrast, Native cultures have variously lived with and/or is defined by the canyons and moderate flows of clashed with newcomers, a pattern repeating and Willow Creek and its tributaries, tying together reversing itself through time and history with several small towns (Heppner, Lexington, Ione) waves of new immigrants and ethnicities. like beads on a string. Through distance and This section explores what our assessments other geographic features these towns are identified as the important "people", or social relatively isolated - geographically, socially and capital elements: diversity, education, health and economically - from the populous and diverse cultural identity. For a snap shot of demographic northern "micropolitan" areas along the I-84 and hunger information and statistics, please see corridor. The residents here resemble and relate "ADDRESSING HUNGER in Morrow County, to their historic wheat farming and ranching 2009", page 27. neighbors on the high Columbia Plateau. This cultural and geographic distance between north South Morrow County residents have cultivated and south creates a complex picture for and preserved a lively, relatively European addressing farm and food opportunities and food cultural and farming heritage (Irish, Basque, security challenges in this county. Welsh, Scottish, Swedish, to name a few that figure in the mix), with long, deep relationships within their communities and to the "rugged country" they live in. This appears to supports a strong sense of cohesion, self-sufficiency and care for each other. And perhaps, a sense of insularity. Relative homogeneity makes it easier to identify and perhaps organize around specific needs and opportunities in the southern area, which we COLUMBIA RIVER IN NEAR IRRIGON understand is the norm here. Yet this can also Principal industries in the county today include make it more difficult to identify and implement agriculture, lumber, livestock, and recreation, change if there are cultural barriers to bringing with agriculture employing upwards of 22% of in new resources and ideas. the population. Morrow may also be unique in the representative energy facilities and the On the other end, the northern portion of the employment opportunities they bring - hydro- county has drawn significant numbers of new electric dams, a coal-fired generating plant in people from outside the region to work in the government, agricultural and manufacturing From Our Roots: The People Agriculture & Food of Morrow County, OR Page | 20
  • 27. sectors. Expanding Hispanic and other minority A large number (82%) of respondents surveyed populations have found a niche in Morrow's expressed concern with poor diet and nutrition in entry-level and subsistence work opportunities, the county. It is encouraging to note that riding a roller-coaster of needs and cooking, gardening, health and nutrition opportunities. Not only does this influence the concerns also ranked relatively high: sixty-eight socio-economic and ethnic mix, it has increased percent of the respondents requested increased the number of young people enrolled in schools, education around gardening, nutrition, food in other programs for youth and families, and in cooking and preservation and the job market. The demand for services and food are more visible, and more visibly met in Also heartening are the number of good ways to the north. Here diversity - of language, culture, meet the health, nutrition and education need experience and education - make it more that are very close to home. difficult to identify, categorize and meet needs. When volunteering with the High School I met CONNECTIVITY. There did not appear to be students who had never peeled a vegetable or strong connections between north and south, sliced an onion. They loved the opportunity which hinders communication, awareness, trust and wished something like home economics and creative solution-building for the county as a was available so that they could learn these whole. Capacity for growth and resilience at the basic skills." - OSU Extension volunteer county-level is limited when connectivity is limited. In addition to school breakfasts and summer HEALTH. A number of statistics provide a feeding programs, many schools around the snapshot of the relative health and quality of life region have long had gardens and greenhouses. for individuals and families here. First, Classroom activities of the Future Farmers of education plays an important part in America and 4-H programs utilize them as part employment and earnings, in health and well- of their agricultural education. South Morrow being: in 2009, Morrow County registered the County (Ione and Heppner) has two such highest number of adults without high school programs in their schools that provide diplomas (over 25%), and second highest exceptional skill-building, entrepreneurial and unemployment rate of 8.7%. As a whole, opportunities for their students, and potentially Morrow County has a higher rate of children and for their school food and nutrition programs. elders in poverty - 20% and 10%, respectively - They stand as good examples for others to learn compared to the rest of the region and state. In from. Another educational resource is the OSU some county school districts, over 94% of the Extension Service which provides agricultural, children qualify for free and reduced price food and nutrition training. The Master meals, while in other districts the numbers hover Gardeners program has a number of trained in the 30% range. volunteers in this county; along with Of our four counties, Morrow has the highest independent gardening clubs there is good rate of diabetes in the Counties studied (8.4% of support for both long-time and beginning garden adults), ranks second in obesity rates (over 27% efforts. Further, the Extension program has also of the adult population), and has the highest rate staffed and trained volunteers to serve in the of infant mortality (NW Indicators, 2009). Family Nutrition Education Program and Master Food Preservers/Family Food Educators who From Our Roots: The People Agriculture & Food of Morrow County, OR Page | 21
  • 28. can be employed in our region in a variety of from abundant water, as some of the nation's ways. In the mid- to longer-term OSU Extension largest corporate food processors and exporters Service should also be encouraged to find ways do business in the northern part of the county. to serve more rural eastern communities with these programs. In regards to farming and agriculture, Morrow County looks very good "on paper": it ranks first Agriculture in the state for the quantity and dollar value of the livestock raised; second in potato, wheat, and Early sheep and cattlemen found an abundance legume crops; and third in the state, close behind of native rye along the creek bottoms of the Umatilla county, in terms of the value of gross region and drove their herds in to forage on farm and ranch sales. these natural pastures. The towns of Lexington and Ione began as sheep stations and over two Further examination of the 2007 Agricultural million pounds of wool were shorn and sold Census numbers (USDA, box below) show that from this county in 1910. The 1911 Oregon the average production expenses on Morrow Bureau of Labor Biennial Report also noted that farms as $275/ acre, with an average net income the county was home to a butter factory, three of $65 per acre. The gap between the costs flour mills, dairies, cool storage facilities, soap- makers, meat markets and numerous grocery and returns of typical farm production cause stores that served the local communities. many to ponder the benefits and value of current, conventional agricultural activities. WEALTH. More recently, north Morrow has experienced rapid growth with development of Government payments (a mix of dairy, food processing, product distribution, tree commodity, conservation and land- farms (second highest production in the nation), retirement programs) to farms in Morrow and other activities. (Indicators Northwest, have increased by 44% between 2002 and 2008). Economically, Morrow boasts a 2007 (averaging $47,000 per farm). relatively high median income (over $45,000) and also a lower per capita income ($14,000) FARMS IN MORROW COUNTY than the rest of Oregon, partly to due to the 421 farms on 1,104,250 acres. diversity of the population and type and variety BY THE NUMBERS Estimated value of land and building per of employment options available. farm is $1.9 million or $973 per acre. The county divides into three main agricultural Total production expenses in the county occupational zones of irrigated crops, wheat and are $303 million; average production ranch lands in the central area and timberlands in the south east corner of the Blues. The advent expenses per farm is $721,383 or of center pivot technology for irrigation has been $275 per acre. a further stimulus to the local economy of the Total net cash income in the county is north, allowing for large-scale irrigated crops. A $354 million; averaging $170,760 drive through the agri-business loop at the Port per farm and $65 per acre. of Morrow reveals the advantage that comes From Our Roots: The People Agriculture & Food of Morrow County, OR Page | 22