The document discusses spirality and shrinkage in knitted fabrics. It defines spirality as a dimensional distortion where the wales are not perpendicular to the courses. Shrinkage is defined as a decrease in length or width upon conditioning. The document discusses factors that influence spirality and shrinkage such as yarn count, fabric structure, GSM, finishing processes. It provides data on controlling spirality and shrinkage for different fabrics in finishing machines like squeezers and stenters.

2. Project report prepared by,
FAISAL AHMED
ROLL NO.070023

3.  Bangladeshi knitwear is exported to over 100 countries of the world and
has passed the target of US$ 5.5 billion mark in its exports this fiscal year.
Bangladesh is now the number three exporter of knitwear to the EU
countries after China and Turkey and is gaining momentum due to its
self-sufficienc
y and competitive workforce and strength in backward linkage.
Over a period of time the knitwear sector has gradually become almost
self sufficient in fabric and yarn and this improvement has become
possible because of the integrated growth of spinning factories in line
with the growth of country's stitching capacity and increased need for
yarn and fabrics.
As the exports have increased in the knitwear sector, the capacity of
backward linkage has also gradually increased accordingly. The result is
that local suppliers can provide 90% of the total fabric requirement of the
sector. The growth of spinning mills has also been in step with the growth
of knitwear exports. In 1993-94 the total number of spindles was 1.38
million that supplied 10.70 million Kg of yarn. In 2003-04 the number
almost tripled to 3.77 million, which supply 239.00 million Kg of yarn. To
date, the total investment in the backward linkage industry is more than
US$ 2.00 billion. Bangladesh’s knitwear industry is growing at over 15%
per annum.

4. • Spirality is a common problem in weft knitted fabric. It is the de-
twisting tendency of yarn in the fabric. It appears in mostly in
single jersey fabrics but in double jersey fabrics this level in
about zero. The causes of formation of spirality in twistness in
the yarn and increase it by using more number of needles and
multifeeders machine so on. It can reduce in different ways but
not remove from the fabrics.
• Shrinkage is the dimensional change in length and width wise in
the fabric. It mainly occurs for swelling of yarn. So, it appears
more in cotton fabrics than synthetic fabrics. It can reduce the
shrinkage by using stenter machine after dyeing and drying the
fabric. Also, if the higher GSM/lower stitches length/lower twist
fabric contains lower shrinkage of fabric.
• For measuring the spirality and shrinkage at first we have done
ISO-6330 washing then use ISO: 16322-2 for spirality and ISO-
5077 for shrinkage. And these are international standard of
these measuring systems.

5. Shrinkage: A dimensional change resulting in a decrease in the length or width of
specimen subjected to specified condition is known shrinkage.
Spirality: If the wales of the knitted fabric are not perpendicular to the course and
skew to the right or left Spirality occurs in the fabric. This creates serious problem,
especially in the apparel industry.
Yarn twist: Twist is the measures of the spiral turns given to a yarn in order to hold the
constituent fibers or threads together. Amount twist i.e.TPI greatly influenced the
fabric Spirality.
Twist liveliness: The tendency of a yarn is to twist or untwist spontaneously. The
direction of twist liveliness or torque S or Z twist change that takes place
spontaneously when an end or hanging loop is allowed to rotate freely. Higher
amount of twist leads high liveliness and creates fabric Spirality.
Dry Relaxed State: The fabric moves to this state with time. The dry relaxed is restricted
by fabric structure and fiber type. Only wool can attain this state.
Wet Relaxed State: Static soak in water and dry flat. This state tight structure doesn’t
always reach a true relaxed state. Only wool and silk can attain this state. Soak
water with agitation or agitation in steam or static soak at selected temperature
(below 900C)

6. RAW MATERIAL OF APS APPARALS LTD.
 Knitting Section
 Yarn Purchase
 Nature Cotton
 Combed 16/s , 18/s, 20/s, 24/s, 26/s, 28/s , 30/s, 32/s, 34/s, 40/s, 42/s, 44/s,
 Carded 20/s , 24/s, 24/s (slub), 26/s, 26/s (slub), 28/s , 28/s (slub), 30/s, 30/s (slub), 34/s (slub), 42/s,
44/s.
 Synthetic Polyester 150/D, Viscose 40/s, 38/s
 PC & CVC Yarn
 PC (10/s , 20/s, 24/s, 26/s, 30/s, 34/s )
 CVC ( 60:40) (20/s , 24/s, 26/s, 28/s, 30/s, 34/s , 40/s,)
 CVC (80:20) (30/s, 40/s )
 Milange Yarn
 Grey milange 15% (10/s, 30/s,)
 Grey milange 5% (20/s , 26/s, 28/s, 30/s, 34/s, 40/s)
 Grey milange 10% (20/s , 24/s, 26/s, 28/s, 30/s, 34/s,40/s )
 Eco milange 2%, (20/s, 24/s, 26/s, 28/s , 30/s,)
 Eco milange 1% (20/s , 30/s, 26/s)
 Lycra 20/D,40/D,70/D
 Modal ( 50%+50%) (28/s, 30/s, 34/s , 40/s,)

7. RAW MATERIAL OF APS APPARALS LTD.
 Source of cotton yarn

 Local Imported
 Prime
Winsome
 Youth
G.T.N
 Nahid NZ Textile
 Shirin Acetone
 Techno Sudan
 Chandra Texlong
 Bengal NFK Rajastan
 Mondal Indosome
 Otto
 Metro
 Badsha
 Shah Fatulla



8.  Spirality is a dimensional distortion in circular
plain knitted fabrics. The wales or needle lines,
should occupy a truly vertical line in the fabric
and should always be right angles to the cross
wise courses of stitches.
 This perpendicularity of wales to the courses is
frequently, not the case and many times the
wales may skew to the right or left forming an
angle, which appears in the form of a twilled
surface.


10. SHRINKAGE
 A dimensional change resulting in a decrease in the length
or width of a specimen subjected to specified conditions is
known shrinkage.
 Reduction in length and width of fabric induced by
conditioning, wetting, steaming, chemical treatment, wet
processing as in laundering, in chemical practice and in
literature the following terms have been used to describe
the shrinkage which occurs in testing procedure:
 Relaxation shrinkage,
 Felting shrinkage,
 Compressive shrinkage,
 Residual shrinkage.

11. CAUSES OF SPIRALITY:
 The residual torque or twist liveness.
 Count of yarn,
 Fabric structure,
 GSM
 Fabric Relaxation,
 No. of feeder.
 Twist direction,
 Machine rotation,
 Spinning system,
 Fabric finishing.

12.  Average deflection length from the seam line = X
 Y= Sample length,
 Spirality% =

 Example:
 Average deflection, X = 2cm
 Sample length, Y = 50cm
 Spirality% =
 As per the experience of world renowned retailers in
the globe, seam twisting / shape distortion / spirality
greater than 6% in tops and shorts and 4% in skirts,
pants, dresses, and sleepwear detracts from the
appearance of the garment.

13. RELATION BETWEEN GSM & SPIRALITY% (TUMBLE DRY)
6
5
4
Spirality (%)
3
2
1
0
120 GSM 130 GSM 140 GSM 160 GSM 180 GSM
Single Jersey Fabric GSM (Cotton)

14. Relation between GSM & Shrinkage% (Tumble Dry)
0
120 GSM 130GSM 140 GSM 160 GSM 180GSM
-1
-2
s
h W
r i -3
i d
n i t
-4
k n h
a w
g i
-5
e s
e
(
%
)
-6
-7
-8
single jersey fabric GSM(Cotton)

15. 5
4.5
4
3.5
3
Spirality (%)
2.5
2
1.5
1
0.5
0
120 GSM 130 GSM 140 GSM 160 GSM 180 GSM
Single Jersey Fabric GSM (Cotton)

16. 0
120 GSM 130GSM 140 GSM 160 GSM 180GSM
-1
i
s n
h W
-2
r i
i d
n t -3
k h
a
g w
-4
e i
(
% s
)
e -5
-6
-7
-8
single jersey fabric GSM(Cotton)

17. 5
4.5
4
3.5
3
Spirality (%)
2.5
2
1.5
1
0.5
0
120 GSM 130 GSM 140 GSM 160 GSM 180 GSM
Single Jersey Fabric GSM (Cotton)

18. 4
3.5
3
2.5
Spirality (%)
2
1.5
1
0.5
0
120 GSM 130 GSM 140 GSM 160 GSM 180 GSM
Single Jersey Fabric GSM (Cotton)

19. 0
120 GSM 130GSM 140 GSM 160 GSM 180GSM
s -1
h
r
i
n -2
k
a
w
g
i
e -3
s
%
e
i
n
W -4
i
d
t
h -5
-6
single jersey farbic GSM (Cotton)

20. 3.5
3
2.5
2
Spirality (%)
1.5
1
0.5
0
120 GSM (Tumble Dry) 120 GSM (Hang Dry) 120 GSM (Flat Dry)
Single Jersey Fabric GSM (polyester)

21. RELATION BETWEEN GSM & SHRINKAGE% FOR
POLYESTER YARN IN DIFFERENT DRY CONDITIONS.
2.5
2
s
h 1.5
r
i
1
n
k
a 0.5
w
g
i
e 0
s
% Tumble Dry(120 GSM) Hang Dry (120GSM) Flat Dry (120GSM)
e
i -0.5
n
W
-1
i
d
-1.5
t
h
-2
-2.5
single jersey fabric GSM (Polyester)

22. RELATION BETWEEN GSM & SHRINKAGE% OF DIFFERENT TYPES
OF FABRICS (TUMBLE DRY)
2
1
s
h
r 0
i PK(22O GSM) 1*1 Rib(220GSM) Interlock (220GSM)
n
k -1
a
w
g
i
e -2
s
%
e
i
n -3
W
i
d -4
t
h
-5
-6

23.  In finishing section fabric GSM, Spirality and shrinkage being
controlled in various finishing machine such as
squeezer, dryer, open & tube compactor and stenter.
 Some descriptions are given below:
 Squeezer:
 Textile materials such as knitted fabrics are usually extended in
length wise direction due to tension specially in dyeing process.
When the dyed fabrics are passed through the squeezer dia of the
fabric can be controlled by adjusting the width of the spreader
frame by controlling width wise shrinkage. Squeezer machine
helps to remove water from the fabric.
 Specification:
 Name: squeezer machine.
 Brand: SANTAX
 Origin: Switzerland.
 Data: Squeezer

24. Fabric type Color GSM Machine speed Over feed Dia Dia+
Single jersey Navy 180 20 +30% 60 +4
Single jersey Dark red 160 20 25% 60 +4
Single Lacoste Sky blue 150 20 20% 69 +4
Double lacoste Avg(wood) 180 20 25% 66 +4
Interlock black 210 20 18% 108 +5
Flat back rib black 340 20 15% 75 +5

25. Fabric type Color GSM Line speed Compaction% dia
Single jersey Navy 180 40 8% +4
Single jersey Dark red 160 40 6% +3
Single Lacoste Sky blue 150 25 8% +3
Double lacoste Avg(wood) 180 40 18% +5
Interlock black 210 40 15% +8
Flat back rib black 340 40 15% +2

26. Fabric type Color GSM Required dia Finished dia Finished GSM Shrinkage in Shrinkage in
length wise width wise
Single jersey Navy 180 60 61 178 -5% -4%
Single jersey Dark red 160 60 61 155 -4% -2%
Single Lacoste Sky blue 150 69 68 147 -3% -7%
Double lacoste Avg(wood) 180 66 63 165 -7% -9%
Interlock black 210 108 109 210 -2% -4%
Flat back rib black 340 75 75 345 -4% -3%

27. CONCLUSION
 In general the angle of spirality values are decreasing, when the
tightness factor values are getting tight in the all knitted fabric samples.
In slack knitted fabric structures, the loop can easily find area to rotate
so spirality is increasing.
 The spirality angle of the fabrics knitted with ring yarns are very high
comparing with the fabrics knitted with open-end yarns. This shows the
effect of the spiraled on twist liveliness. Because the twist liveliness of
the ring yarns used in producing single jersey fabric is higher than the
open-end yarns used in producing single jersey fabrics.
 Fabrics shrinkage depends on different fabric structure i.e; single jersey,
rib, interlock and their derivatives. Yarn composition i.e; 100% cotton
and polyester and synthetic yarn.
 More research and development is required to control the fabric
specifications accurately. We could not able to execute the project work
perfectly for limitations of time and lack of opportunity to examine the
various tests in the factory.
