Around 300 million years ago, a large granite intrusion formed the base structure of today’s Mont Blanc massif. The alpine orogeny, still active today, has gradually raised this granite centre which, shaped by atmospheric agents and cracked by tectonic movements, is now visible today. Granite is an intrusive igneous rock, originating from the slow consolidation of magma below the earth’s crust. The term “igneous” is derived from “ignis” – the latin word for fire. In this sense, Mont Blanc was born from fire: not difficult to imagine when you observe the red shades of its gendarmes. A similarity is found in the topography: the rocky divide which descends to the Mer de Glace from the Aiguille du Dru, for example, is called “Flammes de Pierre”, “Flames of Stone”. As well as the rock, ice is another fundamental material which has determined the majestic and varied architecture of the massif. The glaciers have sculpted rock faces and excavated the valleys which we ski down or walk up to access routes today. That the summit of Mont Blanc reaches and goes beyond 4800 metres is only thanks to the thick ice cap which covers its rocky base. The altitude and the climatic situation have preserved remarkable glacial masses which, despite their general and unstoppable recession, can still be admired in all their glory today. But even if formation and colour alone were enough to distinguish Mont Blanc along the alpine chain, it is its history which makes it unique amongst the world’s mountains. Mountaineering was born on Mont Blanc and it is here it took the first steps of its evolution. In the last two centuries, footprints on the snows of its glaciers have multiplied, from the first shaky steps of hobnailed bo - ots to the precise tracks of modern technical crampons. Generations of mountaineers have put themselves to the test on its walls, following pre-existing routes or welcoming the new challenges of which this massif is an inexhaustible source. Starting with the inital scientific and naturalistic aims, the motivations which have attracted visitors to Mont Blanc have become adventurous and romantic, then more and more focused on sport. Unlike the modern tendancy to focus on hard mixed climbing only accessible to a select few, this book proposes a selection of routes of “medium” technical difficulty, thus achievable by anyone with adequate preparation. Along these routes, sporting performance comes second to the complete experience, without forfeiting the elegance of the lines and the harmony of movements they create. In this way, following “plaisir” climbs such as the historical routes created by the pioneers, we can immerse ourselves completely in Mont Blanc’s unique atmosphere without the anxieties of performance or risk detracting from the feeling of beauty of this enchanted world to which we have been granted access.

1. rock&ice 4
ideaMontagna
editoria e alpinismo
Mont Blanc
classic & plaisir
SECOND EDITION

2. rock&ice
ideaMontagna
editoria e alpinismo
Mont Blanc
classic & plaisir
Translation: Lynne Hempton

3. Opening a book about Mont Blanc is always a moving experience for me, a mountain which I’ve
dreamed of so much and which has given me so many dreams in return.
First of all, I remember the moment when I discovered these mountains, at fourteen years old,
thanks to Gaston Rebuffat’s beautifully entitled book, “Mont Blanc, jardin féérique”*.
I am immensely grateful to Rébuffat, who through this book revealed to me a true high-altitude
gem, something I’d only dreamed of, confusedly and ardently, having grown up in a flat region
with no mountains.
And then there are numerous memories of hours and hours spent there, in the heart of these
mountains, which little by little have become engraved in my memory. As well as these, though,
are the precious faces of so many companions, illuminated by the light and shade of the moun-
tains. Faces alight with effort or enthusiasm, with fatigue or joy, with worry or relief, with wonder
or confusion...
Let this book, so clearly the product of a true lifetime passion, reveal to its readers those great
places where dreams are made, along the main roads or secret corners of this inexhaustible “en-
chanted garden”. Let it guide you in the realisation of those dreams, accomplished and wholly
shared in that unique bond between climbers.
Patrick Gabarrou
* Mont Blanc, enchanted garden
5
PREFACE
First edition: July 2012
Second edition: July 2015
ISBN: 978-88-97299-63-9
Idea Montagna Editoria e Alpinismo
Via Guido Rossa, 17 - 35016 Piazzola sul Brenta - Padua - Italy
Tel. 049 9601797 - Fax 049 8840000
info@ideamontagna.it - www.ideamontagna.it
General Coordination: Francesco Cappellari
Graphic Design: Rossella Benetollo
Layout, Images, Maps Irene Cappellari
Illustrations, Maps, Route Lines and Text: Marco Romelli
Translation: Lynne Hempton
Printed by: Litocenter Srl for Idea Montagna Editoria e Alpinismo
Cover Photo: Climbers on the gendarme of La Table to the Aiguille du Tour
Page 2: Dawn over the Grandes Jorasses viewed from the Aiguille de Leschaux
All rights reserved.
Any reproduction of the text, images and photographs, even partial, is strictly forbidden.
Warning: This guide has been complied with the greatest possible care; however there is no guarantee against the possibility
of errors or omissions. The use of the information in this guide is at the user’s own risk. The author and the editor accept no
responsibility for any incidents or other consequences.
PHOTOGRAPHY
All of the photographs used for the photo topos were taken by the author, apart from the photos on page 301 (A. Chanoine)
and 317 (A. Conz). Where not otherwise specified in the caption, all other photographs were taken by the author.

4. l Introduction
7
Around 300 million years ago, a large granite intrusion formed the base structure of today’s
Mont Blanc massif. The alpine orogeny, still active today, has gradually raised this granite centre
which, shaped by atmospheric agents and cracked by tectonic movements, is now visible today.
Granite is an intrusive igneous rock, originating from the slow consolidation of magma below the
earth’s crust. The term “igneous” is derived from “ignis” – the latin word for fire. In this sense,
Mont Blanc was born from fire: not difficult to imagine when you observe the red shades of its
gendarmes. A similarity is found in the topography: the rocky divide which descends to the Mer
de Glace from the Aiguille du Dru, for example, is called “Flammes de Pierre”, “Flames of Stone”.
As well as the rock, ice is another fundamental material which has determined the majestic and
varied architecture of the massif. The glaciers have sculpted rock faces and excavated the valleys
which we ski down or walk up to access routes today. That the summit of Mont Blanc reaches
and goes beyond 4800 metres is only thanks to the thick ice cap which covers its rocky base. The
altitude and the climatic situation have preserved remarkable glacial masses which, despite their
general and unstoppable recession, can still be admired in all their glory today.
But even if formation and colour alone were enough to distinguish Mont Blanc along the alpine
chain, it is its history which makes it unique amongst the world’s mountains. Mountaineering was
born on Mont Blanc and it is here it took the first steps of its evolution. In the last two centuries,
footprints on the snows of its glaciers have multiplied, from the first shaky steps of hobnailed bo-
ots to the precise tracks of modern technical crampons. Generations of mountaineers have put
themselves to the test on its walls, following pre-existing routes or welcoming the new challenges
of which this massif is an inexhaustible source. Starting with the inital scientific and naturalistic
aims, the motivations which have attracted visitors to Mont Blanc have become adventurous and
romantic, then more and more focused on sport.
Unlike the modern tendancy to focus on hard mixed climbing only accessible to a select few, this
book proposes a selection of routes of “medium” technical difficulty, thus achievable by anyone
with adequate preparation. Along these routes, sporting performance comes second to the com-
plete experience, without forfeiting the elegance of the lines and the harmony of movements
they create. In this way, following “plaisir” climbs such as the historical routes created by the
pioneers, we can immerse ourselves completely in Mont Blanc’s unique atmosphere without the
anxieties of performance or risk detracting from the feeling of beauty of this enchanted world to
which we have been granted access.
Marco Romelli
INTRODUCTION
Left: The snowy cap of the Aiguille Verte overlooking Col du Passon and
the Glacier du Tour
Next page: Spring on the Bosses Ridge

5. l Index
9
INDEX
• Preface 5
• Introduction 7
• Geographic Location 12
• Technical Information 14
ONE • ORNY - TRIENT 21
Gendarme d’Orny 25
001 • Papa Paye 26
Aiguille de la Cabane 30
002 • Voie du Bon Accueil 31
Aiguille d’Orny 35
003 • La Moquette 36
Aiguilles Dorées 41
004 • Couloir Copt 42
005 • South Ridge 46
Tête Blanche 52
006 • North Face 53
TWO • TOUR BASIN 55
Aiguille du Tour 60
007 • Normal Route 61
008 • Couloir de la Table 64
Aiguille du Chardonnet 67
009 • Forbes Arête 68
010 • Migot Spur 72
Tête Blanche and Petite Fourche 75
011 • Normal Routes 76
THREE • ARGENTIÈRE BASIN 79
Petite Aiguille Verte 85
012 • Normal Route 86
013 • Chevalier Couloir 88
Aiguille d’Argentière 90
014 • Normal Route 91
015 • Y Couloir 94
Aiguille du Refuge
and Aiguille du Génépi 97
016 • Le Gâteau de Riz 98
017 • South Ridge 102
FOUR • MER DE GLACE 105
Lower Envers Slabs 110
018 • Pilier des Rhodo-Dindons 111
019 • Voie Georges 111
020 • Vingt Mille Lieues Sous la Neige 111
Aiguille du Moine 118
021 • South Side and South Ridge 119
022 • Normal Route 123
Aiguille Verte 125
023 • Normal Route 126
Les Courtes 132
024 • Normal Route and Traverse 133
Pointe Isabelle 138
025 • Normal Route 139
FIVE • AIGUILLES DE CHAMONIX 143
Aiguille de l’M 147
026 • North-North-East Ridge 148
Petits Charmoz 152
027 • Traverse 153
Lames Fontaine 158
028 • Voie Abert 159
Aiguille du Peigne 162
029 • Les Lépidoptères 163
030 • Arête des Papillons 167
031 • Éperon des Minettes 171
SIX • AIGUILLE DU MIDI
LES TROIS MONTS 175
Aiguille du Midi 181
032 • Cosmiques Arête 182
033 • Voie Rébuffat
Eperon des Cosmiques 185
Aiguille du Plan 190
034 • Midi-Plan Traverse 191
Pointe Lachenal 195
035 • Traverse 196
Triangle du Tacul 198
036 • Contamine-Négri 199

6. 1110
037 • Contamine-Grisolle 202
038 • Contamine-Mazeaud 204
039 • Goulotte Chéré 206
Mont Blanc du Tacul 209
040 • Normal Route 210
Mont Maudit 213
041 • North-East Ridge 214
Mont Blanc 217
042 • Voie des Trois Monts 218
SEVEN • BOSSONS - BIONNASSAY
VALLÉE DES CONTAMINES 221
Mont Blanc 229
043 • Voie Royale 230
044 • Normal Route via the Aiguille du
Goûter and the Bosses Ridge 234
Aiguille de Bionnassay 238
045 • Traverse of the Ridges 239
Dômes de Miage 243
046 • Mettrier Ridge to Dôme Orientale 244
047 • Dômes de Miage Traverse 248
Aiguille Nord de Tré la Tête 252
048 • Normal Route via the NNW face 253
Aiguille de la Leé Blanche 255
049 • North-West Face 256
EIGHT • VAL VENY - SEIGNE 259
Aiguille des Glaciers 266
050 • Normal Route 267
Dôme de Neige des Glaciers 271
051 • Lanchettes Ridge 272
Pyramides Calcaires 275
052 • North-East Ridge 276
Petit Mont Blanc 280
053 • Normal Route 281
Aiguille Orientale de Tré la Tête 283
054 • East Ridge 284
Mont Blanc 287
055 • Aiguilles Grises Route 289
Aiguille du Châtelet 293
056 • Hydrotecnique 294
057 • Velociraptor 296
Aiguille Croux 298
058 • Via Cheney 299
NINE • POINTE HELBRONNER
COL DU GÉANT 303
Dent du Géant 310
059 • Normal Route 312
Aiguille de Rochefort 315
060 • Normal Route
via the Rochefort Ridge 316
Aiguilles Marbrées 318
061 • Traverse 319
Aiguille de Toule 322
062 • South-West slope 323
063 • North Face 326
Aiguille d’Entrèves 328
064 • Ridge traverse 329
Tour Ronde 332
065 • Normal Route 333
066 • North Face 336
067 • Gervasutti Couloir 339
Roi de Siam 344
068 • Le Lifting du Roi 345
Pyramide du Tacul 350
069 • East Ridge 351
TEN • VAL FERRET 357
Aiguille de Leschaux 363
070 • Normal Route 364
Parete dei Titani 368
071 • Génépi 1-2 369
Monts Rouges de Triolet 371
072 • Les Chamois Volants 372
073 • La Bérésina 378
Mont Dolent 381
074 • Normal Route 382
ELEVEN • AIGUILLES ROUGES 385
Le Brévent 389
075 • La Frison-Roche 390
Aiguille de Charlanon 394
076 • Arête du Doigt 395
Aiguille de l’Index 399
077 • South-East Ridge 400
Pointe Gaspard 404
078 • Gaspard Premier 405
Aiguilles Crochues 407
079 • Traverse 408
080 • South Ridge to the South Summit 411
ROUTES IN GRADE ORDER 414
• Mountaineering routes with some
or limited in-situ gear 414
• Fully bolted sport climbs 415
• Ice routes 415
• High mountain and mixed routes 416
BIOGRAPHIES AND TALES
The Remy brothers 34
Michel Piola 116
Edward Whymper 130
Gaston Rébuffat 188
André Contamine 201
First ascent of Mont Blanc 237
Giusto Gervasutti 342
Arturo Ottoz 354
Patrick Gabarrou and Manlio Motto 376
l IndexRock&Ice l Mont Blanc classic & plaisir
Passion, experience and quality
Climbing, Mountaineering,
Freeride and Canyoning
Tel: +39 3335742382
Website: www.albertomountainguide.it
Alberto Boschiazzo
Alpine Guide

7. 10
11
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
Le Brévent
2525 m
Aiguille Verte
4122 m
Aiguille du Midi
3842 m
Aiguille du Plan
3673 m
Mt. Maudit
4465 m
Mt. Blanc
4810 m
Aig. de Bionnassay
4052 m
Aig. des Glaciers
3816 m
Aig. de Tré
la Tête
3930 m
Dent du Géant
4013 m
Plan de
l’Aiguille
Bellevue
V
a
l
F
e
r
r
e
t
V a
l
V
e
n
y
Montenvers
Nid d’Aigle
Dôme
sd
e
Miage
Les Grandes
Jorasses
4208 m
Col de la
Seigne
Col du Petit
Ferret
Col du Grand
Ferret
Col des
Montets
Mont Dolent
3823 mLes Courtes
3856 m
Aig. d’Argentière
3902 m
Aig. du Chardonnet
3824 m
Aig. du Tour
3544 m
Tête de Licony
2929 m
Grande
Rochère
3320 m
Berrio Blanc
3252 m
Pointe Noire de
Pormenaz
2323 m
Désert de
Platé
La Breya
Mont Tondu
3196 m
Mer
d
e
Glace
Glac. de
Talèfre
Glac. du
Géant
Glac. de la
Brenva
G
l
acier
du
M i a g e
Glac. de
TrélaTête
GlacierdesBossons
Lac
Combal
Glac.
du Tour
Plateau du
Trient
Gla
c.d’Argen
tière
Aig. du Belvédère
2965 m
AiguillesRouges
Chamonix
Courmayeur
Entrèves
Les Houches
Servoz
Le Fayet
Les Praz
St. Gervais
Les Contamines
Montjoie
La Gruvaz
Argentière
Le Tour
MARTIGNY
SALLANCHES
CLUSES
1312
GEOGRAPHIC LOCATION
The Mont Blanc range extends for more than 30
km in the north-western part of the Alpine Arc
in the Graian Alps. The main ridge runs SW-NE
and marks the border between France and Italy
and, further north, between France and Swit-
zerland. The basin of the Glacier des Glaciers
in the French department of Savoie forms the
range’s southern limit. From south-west to nor-
th-east, the Tré la Tête massif and the central
Mont Blanc massif to the Pré de Bar basin stand
between the Italian Valle d’Aosta and the Fren-
ch Upper Savoie. The three countries of Fran-
ce, Italy and Switzerland meet on the summit
of Mont Dolent. From here to the Trient area,
the ridge faces more decisively north and forms
the border between the Upper Savoie and the
Swiss canton of Valais. The Mont Blanc Tunnel
(opened in 1965) extends for 11 km and con-
nects France and Italy, whilst Col des Montets
to the north of Chamonix gives access to the
Swiss border. Road access to the far south and
north-east areas of the range is less direct, given
that the main passes, Col de la Seigne and the
Grand and Petit Ferret passes are not accessible
to road traffic.
AOSTA
MILAN
TURIN
l Geographic locationRock&Ice l Mont Blanc classic & plaisir

8. 198
036
36
37
38
39
Triangle
du Tacul
199
A triangular rocky buttress around 400 m high which characterises the north face of Mont Blanc
du Tacul. On this formation, veined with gullies and icefalls, there are numerous routes which
share an easy approach and technical climbing. Some lines, both characteristic and enjoyable,
have now become ultra classics.
The logical conclusion to a route on the Triangle is to gain the summit of Tacul via its superb
north ridge, but impatient climbers can take advantage of a short cut which leads from the sum-
mit of the Triangle to the normal route.
General conditions: All of the routes are potentially climbable from spring to late autumn, depending
on the condition of the descent route which is very delicate at any time of year after recent snowfall
(see route 040). Thanks to the possibility of an abseil descent, Goulotte Chéré can be climbed year-
round. The predominantly glacial nature of the rest of the routes makes them dangerous in very warm
or dry periods (rockfall). In general the best conditions are found with a good snow cover and good
refreezing conditions. Any further condition specifics are mentioned in the descriptions of each route.
Routes:
Contamine-Négri
Contamine-Grisolle
Contamine-Mazeaud
Goulotte Chéré
TRIANGLE DU TACUL 3970 m
Ski approach to Triangle du Tacul
FIRST ASCENT: P. Labrunie, J. Martin,
M. Négri, A. Contamine, 5 August 1962
GRADE: D, 70°, exposed to seracs at the
start and on the first two pitches
ASCENT: 350 m
ASPECT: north-east
SUPPORT BASES: Refuge des Cosmiques
CHARACTERISTICS: Icy face, some possible
mixed sections
On the summit of the Triangle
Contamine-Négri
On the north-east face alongside the seracs
Arête Nord du Tacul
Six l Aiguille du Midi – Les Trois Monts l Triangle du TaculRock&Ice l Mont Blanc classic & plaisir

9. Sentieri d’autore l Ferrate dell’Alto Garda
200
This was the first route to be opened on the
Triangle. It develops along the left side of the
mountain, weaving into the bottleneck be-
tween the rocks and the seracs. Some steep-
er sections at the start add a good variety of
moves. Rarely crowded.
GEAR
Two technical axes, ice screws, equipment for
glacier travel, one 60 m rope.
APPROACH
From the Aiguille du Midi descend to Col du
Midi. Cross the plateau, aiming directly for the
left side of the Triangle (40-45 minutes).
ROUTE
Cross the bergschrund and ascend vertically
along the uniform ice slope (50°) until the bot-
tleneck between the rocks of the Triangle du Ta-
cul and the hanging serac which rests on Pointe
Lachenal. A couple of steep pitches (up to 70°
and possible easy mixed moves) overcome the
bottleneck. Continue to the summit of the Trian-
gle along a vague gully between the rocks of the
Triangle on the right and the large slope of the
seracs on the left (50°-55° with short steeper
walls depending on the glacier conditions). 2 h
30 - 3 h.
DESCENT
From the summit of the Triangle follow the N
ridge (large cornices on the E side) until the
summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul. The final 60 m
on rock are shared with the normal route (1 - 1
h 30). Descend the normal route (route 040) to
Col du Midi.
In good conditions it is also possible, albeit less
interesting, to descend direct from the summit
of the Triangle: traverse, descending slightly,
along the steep NW slope of the Tacul (take
care: danger of falling seracs and avalanches)
towards the tracks of the normal route (see
route 040 route line). Do not descend too low
(seracs).
IDEAL CONDITIONS
The slope gets the sun very early in the morn-
ing. The route is not recommended in dry pe-
riods as it forms entirely of hard ice. Also see
the general conditions of the Triangle du Tacul
mentioned at the start of the chapter.
A stormy dawn at the exit of the Contamine-Negri route
André Contamine, (1919-1985), was an
Alpine Guide, Ski instructor and teacher of
the reknowned ENSA (École Nationale de
Ski et Alpinisme) in Chamonix.
His mountaineering exploits were
concentrated on the Mont Blanc range,
including some new routes which rapidly
became super classics.
In 1955, along with Marcel Bron and
Pierre Labrunie, he put up the Contamine-
Labrunie route on the smooth and
imposing west face of the Petites
Jorasses. In 1959, still with Labrunie
and R. Wohlschlag, he opened the
Contamine route on the east spur of
Pointe Lachenal, still very popular
today, on excellent protogine granite. The same year, he
also put up the small glacial route on the north face of Petite Aiguille
Verte (see route 012, “Other Options”). However, his main success
was the “Three Contamines” on the Triangle du Tacul, three small
mountaineering masterpieces of high-altitude mixed climbing, which
are repeated numerous times each year. The first route opened is the
relatively less repeated and perhaps also the most fascinating: the
Contamine-Négri. The Contamine-Mazeaud and Contamine-Grisolle
were to follow. The latter, for its relative safety and often favourable
conditions, is nowadays the most popular.
Other than these acheivements, Contamine was also the pioneer of
other less well-known and difficult routes, such as the Contamine route
on the Aiguilles du Diable, L’Isolee (with G. Epinoux, Y. Maillard, Y.
Morin, J.M. Parent and J. Raphoz, in 1968).
In 1969 he put up a final line on the Triangle du Tacul with C. Cassin,
A. Faure, R. Girod, J. Luc, J. Méchoud and G. Ménard, which
confronted the serac and the suspended glacier of the NE face of the
Triangle direct. This route, despite sharing the same ease of access
as the other three Contamine routes on the Triangle, for obvious
reasons is not climbed as frequently.
ANDRE CONTAMINE
Rock&Ice l Mont Blanc classic & plaisir

10. 318
061
61
C o l d u G é a n t
319
The ridge of the Aiguilles Marbrées extends N to S on the eastern border of the plateau of Col du
Géant. Only slightly above the glacial plain, it is composd of rather loose rock. For this reason its
short walls are not climbed, whilst the edge of the arête is very popular as a traverse route due
to the lack of any difficult cliffs or monolithic gendarmes.
Route:
Traverse
AIGUILLES MARBRÉES 3535 m
The North Peak of the Aiguilles Marbrées in the foreground
FIRST ASCENT: unknown
GRADE: PD
ASCENT: approximately 200 m, longer
development
ASPECT: various. The main ridge faces N-S
SUPPORT BASES: Rifugio Torino
(possible in a day from Pointe Helbronner)
CHARACTERISTICS: ridge traverse, possible
gully variant
Avoiding the boulders at the start of the route
Traverse
From Col de Rochefort to Col du Géant
N Peak S Peak
notch
(abseil)
Nine l Pointe Helbronner - Col du Géant l Aiguilles MarbréesRock&Ice l Mont Blanc classic & plaisir

11. 321320
b • From the SW gully
From autumn to spring with stable snow con-
ditions, the N Summit of the Aiguilles Marbrées
can be reached via the south-west gully. The
gully is visible from Col du Géant: if it is com-
pletely filled with snow, ascend it direct (45°)
to exit onto the main Aiguilles Marbrées ridge
just south of the S Summit. Move left along the
ridge and ascend to the summit as described
above. 1 h from the hut.
ROUTE
From the N Summit of Aiguilles Marbrées de-
scend S along the main ridge, retracing the final
part of the approach and continuing easily to
the snowy col at the top of the south-west gully.
Descend further along the blocks of the ridge
to a pronounced gendarme. Move around this
on snowy or scree ledges in summer (care re-
quired) on the east side. Regain the ridge and
move around the next gendarme easily on the
west side. Stay on the ridge and climb a lovely
rock section on the arête (I and II) which leads
to a notch just N of the S Summit. There is a
chain anchor here. Make a 30 m abseil, keeping
right (looking up) to reach the glacier at Col du
Géant. From here return quickly to Rifugio To-
rino. On the abseil, avoid descending vertically:
you run the risk of pulling down some of the
large rocks stacked below the notch. 1-1 h 30
from the N Summit to the glacier.
IDEAL CONDITIONS
The route via an approach from Col de Ro-
chefort is almost always tracked and generally
possible year round. The rock is delicate and
movement is safer with a good snow cover. In
summer and in dry conditions, stay on the edge
as much as possible, avoiding the loose rock of
the sides. Stable snow is required in winter.
The approach variant via the south-west gully is
only possible with good snow cover. When the
gully is not completely filled with snow or with
poor refreezing conditions and high tempera-
tures, it becomes dangerous due to rockfall.
A short distance away from Pointe Helbronner,
the small but sharp ridge of the Aiguilles Mar-
brées is an interesting playground for a half
day excursion and for practicing alpine tech-
niques. The classic line of the traverse begins
from Col de Rochefort and follows the ENE side
of the North Summit of the Aiguilles Marbrées.
From the summit the real traverse begins, de-
veloping along the main ridge of the Aiguilles
facing N-S. The traverse usually ends at a col
just north of the South Summit.
GEAR
Equipment for glacier travel, some slings and
quickdraws for protection on spikes, a rack
of small and medium cams, one 60 m single
rope.
APPROACH
a • From Col de Rochefort via the E ridge of
the N Summit
From Pointe Helbronner or Rifugio Torino cross
the plateau of Col du Géant north-east, passing
the west-northern arête of the N Summit of the
Aiguilles Marbrées, then turn right (SE) to reach
Col de Rochefort. Follow the E ridge of the Ai-
guilles Marbrées N Summit. When there is snow
on the ridge, all of the difficult sections can be
avoided on the left; otherwise it is better to stay
on the edge of the ridge with short sections of
climbing on blocks (II). Continue beyond a small
rise culminating in a characteristic rock flake and
descend slightly to the next col. Climb to reach
the main ridge of the Aiguilles Marbrées, facing
N-S. Move right (N), go east around a gendarme
and ascend to the N Summit via a short slab on
the E side (II). 1 h 30-2 h from the hut.
Climbing on the ridge
The short slab leading to the N Summit
Nine l Pointe Helbronner - Col du Géant l Aiguilles MarbréesRock&Ice l Mont Blanc classic & plaisir