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welcome
                                                                                             january
                                                                       Throughout my career and life I have had heroes; people I’ve looked up to, admired, been influenced by
                                                                       and respected for their achievements and attitude. Many of them have been photographic heroes. Most of
                                                                       these have been people whose work I could never hope to emulate, but from whom I have managed to
                                                                       grasp nuggets of insight – a few words that have given me more understanding of my work and/or the
                                                                       industry. It is why each month we try to bring you as many exclusive interviews with the world’s greatest
                                                                       photographers, so that you can benefit from their experiences and hear and learn from the
                                                                       best. This month we have compiled a series of interviews with some of the most iconic
                                                                       and important photographers in their fields and I’m honoured to have them feature in our
                                                                       magazine. Toscani, Watson, Schapiro and Schadeberg, thanks for the insights.
                                                                          Every month we feature your images and this month sees us devote 18 pages to the winning and
                                          commended images from the Professional Photographer of the Year Awards 2010 from Page 103. The quality of the images
                                          you enter gets higher by the year and ever harder to judge. I hope you agree with the selection, although as with any
                                          photography competition I’m sure there will be great debate over our choice of the winning images!
                                            We had an incredible rise in the standard of student entries this year, which bodes well for the future of our
                                          profession, despite a lot that I hear and see coming out of the universities. Someone who is giving his time
                                          to back up his beliefs is photographer Jonathan Worth. You can read about his ground-breaking Phonar
                                          Project in Turn On, Tune In, Drop In from Page 38.
                                            One of the most discussed channels for promoting a photographer’s work is the photographic
                                          exhibition. How to stage one on budget and successfully can often seem like a secret dark art, so
                                          we decided to speak to the experts to find out how to get it right. You can read what they had to say
                                          in Make an Exhibition of Yourself from Page 80. While on the subject of exhibitions,
                                          what we at PP have noticed during 2010 is the vast number of them devoted to rock photography
                                          from the past 30 years or so. We mention them and occasionally feature the most interesting
                                          but we wanted to look into the ‘Why?’ in more depth, so we asked ex-music journo
                                          Peter Silverton to take one of his personal journeys into finding out the truth and
                                          asking the difficult questions in Let it Rock from Page 74.
                                            We have had an amazing response to our new regular column The Dench
                                          Diary from Page 42 and to our revamped monthly podcasts featuring myself,
                                          our deputy editor Eleanor O’Kane and the drink-friendly, sometime working
                                          pro himself, Peter Dench. You can find out more about the podcasts in
                                          On Your Wavelength on Page 30.
                                            As the owner of a couple of Pentax 67s with lovely wooden handles I
                                          couldn’t wait to get my hands on the 645D, Pentax’s return to the
THIS IMAGE / COVER IMAGE: ALBERT WATSON




                                          medium format marketplace. However, I thought that the leading garden
                                          and lifestyle photographer Jason Ingram was better placed to put it
EDITOR’S IMAGE: MATT HALSTEAD




                                          through its outdoor paces. You can read his findings in Back in
                                          the Game from Page 98.
                                            Now, as I’m running out of space, it just leaves me to thank
                                          you all for your support in 2010 and to look forward to
                                          2011.




                                          Grant Scott, Editor
NEW PHOTOGRAPHY
                     8 Portfolio
                     The best of your work posted in the Professional
                     Photographer online gallery.

                     59 Exposure
                                                                                   contents
                                                                                        january
                     Darkrooms revisited. A nostalgic look at the place
                     many of us once called home.


                     NEED TO KNOW
                     27 Being There
                     PP Editor Grant Scott travels to northern Pakistan to
                     photograph Jemima Khan – with the usual mishaps.

                     34 Dispatches
                     Photographer Clive Booth realises that wedding
                     photography can be a challenge and a pleasure.

                     42 The Dench Diary
                     Photojournalist Peter Dench’s real-life tales of
                     a sometime working pro.

                     46 Film School
                     Film maker John Campbell’s regular news-packed
                     look at the world of convergence.

                     49 Frontline
                     The photographic director at 4 Creative,
                     Channel 4, Ed Webster, gives advice on how to
                     get commissioned.

                     146 Legend
                     Peter Silverton takes a look at the life and times of
                     the French street icon Robert Doisneau.


                     INTERVIEWS WITH...
                     38 Turn on, Tune in, Drop in
                     Photographer Jonathan Worth has turned
                     photography education on its head and embraced
                     social media. Eleanor O’Kane finds out why and how.


                     EXCLUSIVE...
                     60 Photo Power                                          Priest and nun, taken by Oliviero Toscani for a Benetton advertising campaign, 1991.
                     Oliviero Toscani has been and remains one of the
                     world’s most controversial photographers.
                     Jesper Storgaard Jensen travelled to his studio                                                                     section exhibiting the winners and commended
                     in Tuscany for an exclusive conversation with this      NEWS & REVIEWS                                              images from all categories.
                     photographic provocateur.
                                                                             14 Click                                                    135 Stop Press...
                     68 The All Seeing Eye                                   This month’s line-up of the best news, dreams,              The latest essential news, gossip and kit from the
                     Albert Watson is one of the most successful and         themes and photographic schemes.                            pro world.
                     influential professional photographers of the past
                     40 years. Here he speaks to Sean Samuels about          25 Diary
                     his career.                                             Our pick of this month’s photographic exhibitions.          KEEP IN TOUCH
                     80 Make an Exhibition of                                57 Object of Desire                                         30 Podcast
                     Yourself                                                We fall in love with a great pair of headphones.            Every month we go online to discuss the world of
                     We speak to the decision makers to help you                                                                         photography and you can hear our debate for free.
                     understand how to create a successful exhibition of     98 Back in the Game
                     your work.                                              Pro photographer Jason Ingram puts the Pentax               32 Subscribe
                                                                             645D through its paces.                                     Check out our latest subscription offer so you’ll
                     86 The History Boys
© OLIVIERO TOSCANI




                                                                                                                                         never miss an issue of your favourite photography
                     We talk to documentary photographers Jürgen             103 The Professional Awards                                 magazine again.
                     Schadeberg and Steve Schapiro, who have been            Winners Announced
                     responsible for photographing some of the most          We have had our best-ever standard of entries this          53 Feedback
                     important moments of the last century.                  year, so we have celebrated with a 29-page special          Your thoughts, your opinions, your page.

                                                                                                                                                       www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 5
friends
                                                                                                                               january



Julia Molony                                         Sean Samuels                                                                    Oliviero Toscani                                                                  Jonathan Worth
Journalist                                           Journalist                                                                      Photographer                                                                      Photographer
Julia started her career on the features             Deputy editor of our sister magazine,                                           There are few photographers working                                               Jonathan Worth works from London
desk of the Sunday Independent in                    Photography Monthly, Sean is an                                                 in the professional commercial arena                                              and New York as a freelance
Ireland. She is now a freelance writer               occasional contributor. This month he                                           who have created more controversy                                                 photographer where his client list
living in London and covers arts,                    meets two legends who between them                                              than Toscani. His driving passion to                                              includes the New York Times and
culture, entertainment and lifestyle                 have nearly 100 years’ experience in                                            use his photography to get people to                                              Vogue. He is a part-time lecturer on
stories for a number of newspapers                   the business. On page 68 he reveals                                             think, debate and engage has always                                               the BA photography degree course at
and magazines, including the                         how Albert Watson’s graphic style has                                           been intimately connected with his                                                Coventry University, and his research
Observer and Guardian Unlimited.                     marked him out as one of the most                                               innate understanding of how outrage                                               developing sustainable working
In this issue she talks to some of                   successful professional photographers                                           can be used to raise a brand’s public                                             practices for photographers has won
the country’s major gallery owners                   of all time. He also examines the                                               awareness. Despite his idyllic life in                                            wide acclaim and been discussed in
and curators to discover why they                    reportage work of Steve Schapiro,                                               the Tuscan countryside he still retains                                           the European Parliament. On page 38
choose to exhibit the work of certain                which forms part of our feature The                                             that passion, as Jesper Storgaard                                                 he explains how his way of thinking
photographers. See page 80.                          History Boys on page 86.                                                        Jensen discovers on page 60.                                                      has influenced his teaching.



                                           GROUP BRAND EDITOR Grant Scott                                  ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Eleanor Godwin                                                     SUBSCRIPTIONS/BACK ISSUES
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                                                       Competition terms and conditions: I The closing date for competitions/giveaways is displayed alongside the competition/giveaway online. I Employees of Archant Specialist, and those professionally connected with the competition/
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                                                                                                                                                                                                                        www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 7
PORTFOLIO
Each month we share the best of the latest postings from our online portfolio with our magazine
readers, so for your chance to appear in Professional Photographer, go online and start uploading
your best images to www.professionalphotographer.co.uk. If you want to see more of any
photographer’s work, click on their online profile to access their website.




                                                                                            LUIS HENRY
                                       DAVID ANDERSON,                                   AGUDELO CANO,
                                              SCOTLAND                                       COLOMBIA




 J COLLINGRIDGE,
 UK



8 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
JIM STEPHENSON,
            UK
PORTFOLI                                   LUIS HENRY
                                        AGUDELO CANO,
                                            COLOMBIA




                                          CHEN QIANG,
                                               CHINA




                                                        BRUNO DE CARVALHO,
                                                        PORTUGAL




 LUIS HENRY
 AGUDELO CANO,
 COLOMBIA



10 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
ALEXANDER KLADOV,
                                        BELARUS




                 JAIME PÉREZ MUNEVAR,
                             COLOMBIA




                       ROB PASSMORE,
                                 UK



RAYMENT KIRBY,
UK




                                                            www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 11
PORTFOLI
                                            RICHARD
              CHEN QIANG,                  BARRETT,
              CHINA                              UK


              RAPHAEL MASON,
              NORTHERN
              IRELAND




                                        PAUL
                                        BRATBY,
                                        UK




                                                      JONATHAN McGEE,
                                                             IRELAND


12 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
click                                                          The new deal
                                                               Art dealer Chris Beetles is opening a new gallery
                                                               dedicated to photography, in Swallow Street, in
                                                               London’s West End, that will sell work by
                                                               legendary photographers such as Terry O’Neill,
                                                               André Kertész and Bruce Davidson. The first
                                                               show, which will take place in February, is a
                                                               major retrospective of Magnum photographer Eve
                                                                                                                                                             the latest
                                                                                                                                                             photographic news,
                                                                                                                                                             dreams, themes
                                                                                                                                                             and schemes.
                                                                                                                                                             edited by Eleanor O’Kane




                                                               Arnold. A gallery owner selling fine art since
                                                               1975, Chris Beetles has been showing work by
                                                               photographers since 2006 when he staged a
                                                               successful show by Terry O’Neill. Since then he
                                                               has shown work by British greats such as Patrick
                                                               Lichfield, John Swannell, Cecil Beaton and
                                                               Duffy, to name but a few. The new gallery has
ANDRÉ KERTÉSZ




                                                               an ambitious 2011 schedule and aims to
                Washington                                     hold between six and eight exhibitions a year.
                Square Park,
                New York.                                      www.chrisbeetlesfinephotographs.com
                                                                                                                                     DOMINIQUE ISSERMANN




                Cannes canned for
                Sony World
                Photography Awards
                Previously held in Cannes, the Sony World                                                                                                  Bella Donna
                Photography Awards is coming to London for
                the first time in 2011. On 27 April, the                                                                                                   Italian actress and model Monica Bellucci
                neo-classical Somerset House will play host                                                                                                (pictured above and right) originally wanted to be
                to the awards ceremony as part of a festival                                                                                               a lawyer and it was while studying at university
                which begins the previous day and includes                                                                                                 that she began modelling to fund her studies.
                events, talks and seminars. During the                                                                                                     She was signed by the Elite agency at the age of
                festival, which runs until 1 May, workshops                                                                                                24, going on to have a successful modelling
                will cover topics such as compiling your                                                                                                   career and becoming a popular actress. During
                portfolio, book design and merging film with                                                                                               her career she has appeared on the covers of
                stills; also photographers including Tom                                                                                                   magazines such as Elle and Esquire as well as
                Stoddart and Pedro Meyer will be discussing                                                                                                Sports Illustrated’s celebrated Swimsuit Issue, and
                their work in the Photographers’ Studio.                                                                                                   has been photographed by the likes of Bruce
                The awards cover genres from documentary,                                                                                                  Weber, Helmut Newton and Ellen Von Unwerth.
                landscape and sport to portraiture and                                                                                                     Now a new book from Rizzoli features 165
                fashion. The winners and runners-up will be
                                                                                                                   ARTEM YANKOVSKY




                                                               Sony World                                                                                  images charting her 25-year career. The book has
                showcased in an exhibition running until       Photography                                                                                 a preface by film director Giuseppe Tornatore.
                                                               Awards 2011 Open
                22 May. For more details on events and         Competition entry.
                                                                                                                                                           Monica Bellucci, by Monica Bellucci, published by
                festival tickets visit www.worldphoto.org                                                                                                  Rizzoli, £37.50, ISBN: 978-0-8478-3507-2.

                14 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
“I’m like a muse who
                 enjoys watching an artist
                 portray her and who lives
                 only through the people
VINCENT PETERS




                 who describe her form.”
                 Monica Bellucci
Let’s go deutsche                                                                                                                                                             The calling
The shortlist for the Deutsche Börse                                                                                                                                          Panos Pictures is calling for new




                                                                                                          ELAD LASSRY/ COURTESY OF DAVID KORDANSKY GALLERY, LOS ANGELES, CA
Photography Prize 2011 has been announced,                                                                                                                                    photojournalists to join its agency. Known for
with German Thomas Demand, Israeli Elad                                                                                                                                       specialising in global social issues, the agency
Lassry and Americans Roe Ethridge and Jim                                                                                                                                     has worked for more than 20 years with both the
Goldberg making the final cut. The annual                                                                                                                                     commercial and non-profit sectors. It has a list
prize, which will earn the winner £30,000, is                                                                                                                                 of photographers based all across the globe,
awarded to a living photographer who has made                                                                                                                                 from Bangladesh to Belgium, with its British
the most significant contribution to photography                                                                                                                              photojournalists including Abbie Trayler-Smith
in Europe between 1 October 2009 and                                                                                                                                          and George Georgiou. This year the agency is
30 September 2010. Judges include Brett                                                                                                                                       also encouraging photographers with
Rogers of The Photographers’ Gallery, who is                                                                                                                                  multimedia skills to apply – the deadline is
interviewed in our feature about exhibiting                                                                                                                                   1 March. Full submission guidelines and rules
your work on page 80.                                                                                                                                                         are available from the agency’s website. For all
www.deutsche-boerse.com/art                                                                                                                                                   the details visit www.panos.co.uk/submissions




A life less ordinary
Has there ever been a photographer as versatile as Cecil
Beaton? From designing book jackets, stage costumes and
Broadway theatre sets to photographing the Bright Young
Things of the 1920s, the devastating aftermath of the Blitz,
and the Royal family – of whom he was official
photographer for a period – Beaton excelled at it all. Born in
Hampstead in 1904 to a prosperous family of timber
                                                                                              ASSOULINE




merchants, the young Beaton was introduced to photography
by his nanny, who owned a Kodak 3A. After graduating from
Cambridge University he lasted just a week in the family
business before leaving to set up his own studio and from there he went on      Beaton: The Art of the Scrapbook. Brought out by French publisher
to work as a staff photographer for both Vanity Fair and Vogue. Known for       Assouline, the book reads like a giant mood board filled with images that
his society portraits and fashion images, Beaton also worked for the British    embody the dreams and vision of this extraordinary talent whose life was
Ministry of Information during the Second World War. His image of a             as glamorous as the subjects in his society pictures. James Danziger, former
three-year-old victim of the Blitz in her hospital bed clutching a teddy bear   picture editor of the Sunday Times Magazine has written the introduction.
was one of the most memorable of the war.                                       Beaton: The Art of the Scrapbook, published by Assouline, £170,
   Now, dozens of his scrapbooks filled with clippings from magazines and       ISBN: 978-275940472-8.
newspapers, as well as playbills, have been immortalised in a book:             www.shopassouline.com




                                                                                                                                                                                       www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 17
ADRIAN FISK




                Let me take you by the hand…
                It seems that everyone is into street photography at the moment but the concept is nothing new as a free
                exhibition at the Museum of London shows. In London Street Photography, which opens on 18 February,
                the museum’s impressive collection of street photography from 1860 to the present day will be on display
                until 4 September. More than 200 images are on show at the museum in London Wall, which portrays the
                capital as an ever-changing city.
                www.museumoflondon.org.uk


                                                                       This is England
                                                                       During 2007 and 2008 photographer Simon Roberts
                                                                       took a road trip across England in a motor home to
                                                                       capture the essence of the nation’s identity through
                                                                       images of the country at leisure. Now, an exhibition at
                                                                       the Museum of Croydon, We English, is showing 29
                                                                       images from the project (including Croydon summer
                                                                       festival, pictured), which took him to all corners of
SIMON ROBERTS




                                                                       England. We English is showing until 26 February.
                                                                       www.museumofcroydon.com




                He sells sanctuary
                The dream-like, cinematic style of internationally renowned photographer
                                                                                                                                 GREGORY CREWDSON




                Gregory Crewdson evokes the elusive style of film makers such as David
                Lynch. On a visit to Rome, Crewdson was invited to tour Cinecittà, the
                legendary Italian film studio founded by Mussolini and used most famously
                by Federico Fellini and Roberto Rossellini. Inspired by the strange beauty he
                found in its crumbling film sets and desolate walkways, Crewdson decided to
                record the faded glory of the studios for his latest project, Sanctuary. Published in a new monograph, the
                black-and-white images are a new direction for Crewdson but retain the drama and beauty of his earlier work.
                Sanctuary, photographs by Gregory Crewdson, published by Abrams, £39.99, ISBN: 978-8109-9199-6.

                                                                                                                                                    www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 19
The hell of copper,                                                                   Fenton’s
 Accra, Ghana, 2008.
                                                                                       finest on
                                                                                       show
                                                                                       The National Media
                                                                                       Museum in Bradford has




                                                                                                                                                                                     ROGER FENTON, COURTESY OF THE NATIONAL MEDIA MUSEUM
                                                                                       acquired a rare Roger




                                                                NYABA LEON OUEDRAOGO
                                                                                       Fenton image for the
                                                                                       National Collection of
                                                                                       Photographs. The picture,
                                                                                       Pasha and Bayadère,
                                                                                       dates from 1858 and
                                                                                       depicts a dancing girl (the
World class                                                                            bayadère) performing for
                                                                                       a high-ranking official;
It’s all about short lists this month as we enter competition                          the theme reflects the
season. Twelve photographers are in the running for the                                contemporary love affair
Prix Pictet, including American photographer Taryn                                     with all things from the
Simon and the German Thomas Struth. This is the third                                  East. It is among a series
year of the competition and has the theme of growth.                                   that Fenton shot after an expedition during the Crimean War and is considered one of his
The jury, which includes last year’s winner, London-based                              best works. In the tableau, the pasha or official, is portrayed by Fenton himself, with the
Nadav Kander, as well as art historian Michael Fried, will                             musician played by English landscape painter Frank Dillon. Plans are in progress to display
announce the winner on 17 March.                                                       the image; in the meantime it is available to view by appointment.
www.prixpictet.com                                                                     www.nationalmediamusuem.org.uk




20 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
click
                The future is bright
                The 2011 LPA Futures competition is
                open and organisers are calling on all
                emerging commercial photographers to
                enter. LPA Futures is a division of the
                Lisa Pritchard Agency and represents
                five up-and-coming photographers during
                a two-year programme. Previous winners
                have landed commissions from major
                commercial clients as well as gaining
                attention in international awards, such as
                the Taylor Wessing Photographic
                Portrait Prize and the World Press Photo
                Awards. Judges include Tim Cole,
                the head of photography for Saatchi &
                Saatchi Design, and Laura Pannack,
                one of the 2009 LPA Futures
                photographers, who took first prize in
                the portrait singles category of the
                World Press Photo 2010 awards.
LAURA PANNACK




                The deadline for entries is 7 February
                2011. For details about how to enter visit
                www.lisapritchard.com




                                                             www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 21
click
                                                                                                     Let’s dance
                                                                                                     We featured British legend Colin Jones in our October 2010 issue, telling how he went
                                                                                                     from ballet dancer to documenter of black activism. Now Proud Chelsea presents an
                                                                                                     exhibition of his images in Fifty Years of the Royal Ballet, photographs by Colin Jones,
                                                                                                     which runs from 13 January to 27 February. Jones won a scholarship to the Royal Ballet
                                                                                                     School in 1953 and it was while touring with the company that he bought his first
                                                                                                     camera in Japan. After a trial with the Observer his career took off and the rest, as they
COLIN JONES / ARENAPAL.COM




                                                                                                     say, is history. For the exhibition, Proud had full access to Jones’s archive which
                                                                                                     provides a rare glimpse of life behind the scenes of the Royal Ballet School. Portraits of
                                                                                                     stars such as Dame Margot Fonteyn and Rudolf Nureyev sit alongside action shots and
                                                                                                     intimate behind-the-scenes images of a glamorous and often gruelling world.
                                                                                                     Fifty Years of the Royal Ballet, photographs by Colin Jones, 13 January to 27 February.
                                                                                                     www.proud.co.uk


                                                                                                                                       DARCY PADILLA




                                                                                                                                                                                                                  An image from
                                                                                                                                                                                                                The Julie Project.



                                                                                                                                                   Badge of honour
                                                                                                      ALBERT WATSON AND THE MACALLAN




                                                                                                                                                   San Francisco-based
                                                                                                                                                   photographer Darcy Padilla has
                                                                              Juan Pruano Duque,
                                                                                                                                                   been awarded the 2010
                                                                                the oldest cooper,
                                                                               Tevasa Cooperage,                                                   W Eugene Smith Grant in
                                                                               Jerez, Spain, 2010.                                                 Humanistic Photography for her
                                                                                                                                                                                                                                     SUN LEE
                                                                                                                                                   photo-essay The Julie Project,
                                                                                                                                                   a study of AIDS, poverty and
                             Capturing the spirit                                                                                                  drugs in America. Padilla’s entry   Rising sun
                                                                                                                                                   was picked from more than 182
                             Renowned photographer Albert Watson has collaborated with                                                             entries from 32 countries and her   Sun Lee was judged the overall winner
                             Macallan, makers of single malt Scotch whisky, to shoot a series of                                                   prize includes a $30,000 grant to   at the Association of Photographers
                             black-and-white images for The Macallan Masters of Photography.                                                       continue her exploration of the     Assistant Awards 2010, which also
                             The project tells of the prized sherry oak casks that contribute 60%                                                  human condition. The W Eugene       recognised seven best in category
                             of the whisky’s flavour. Starting in the forests of northern Spain,                                                   Smith Memorial Fund was             winners as well as giving nine merits.
                             before going to the cooperage in Jerez in the south and culminating                                                   established in 1979 to honour       His image Railyard (above) took
                             in Scotland, the project took Watson on a journey that lasted 12 days                                                 the life and work of the            the overall prize as well as the best in
                             as he captured the story of The Macallan from acorn to glass.                                                         celebrated photojournalist; it      category for environmental single.
                                The work will be exhibited around the world and a series of                                                        provides grants to photographers    The catalogue featuring all
                             limited-edition signed platinum prints will be available. Don’t miss                                                  whose work exemplifies              92 short-listed images is available
                             our exclusive interview feature with Albert Watson on page 68.                                                        his attitude to photography.        via Blurb or at the AOP Gallery.
                             www.themacallan.com                                                                                                   www.smithfund.org                   http://awards.the-aop.org

                             22 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
We have done the hard work for you and chosen the best photographic exhibitions on show this month.
                                                       For a full list of exhibitions and events visit www.professionalphotographer.co.uk


                                                                                                         Twentieth Century Portraits:
                                                                                                         Photographs by Dmitri Kasterine
                                                                                                         National Portrait Gallery, St Martin’s Place,
                                                                                                         London, WC2H 0HE
                                                                                                         020 7306 0055; www.npg.org.uk
                                                                                                         Until 3 April
                                                                                                         Dmitri Kasterine’s remarkable portraits are
                                                                                                         on display in the United Kingdom for the
                                                                                                         first time this winter at the National Portrait
DMITRI KASTERINE / NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY, LONDON




                                                                                                         Gallery in London. Kasterine has
                                                                                                         photographed some of the most famous
                                                                                                         cultural figures of the 20th century,
                                                                                                         including Samuel Beckett, David Hockney,
                                                                                                         Stanley Kubrick and Francis Bacon.
                                                                                                         Twenty newly-acquired photographs will
                                                                                                         be shown in the exhibition for the first time.
                                                                                                         Although the exhibition has been running
                                                                                                         for a while now, we think it is definitely




                                                                                                                                                                                              DAVID SEYMOUR / MAGNUM PHOTOS
                                                                                                         worth a visit.

                                                                                                         Stanley Kubrick, London, 1969.



                                                       Manga Dreams
                                                       Hamilton’s Gallery, 13 Carlos Place, London, W1K 2EU                                                                                                                                                         Sophia Loren.
                                                       020 7499 9494; www.andersonandlow.com
                                                       www.hamiltonsgallery.com                                                                                                                                               The Magnum Mark
                                                       27 January to 5 March                                                                                                                                                  Magnum Print Room, 63 Gee Street, London, EC1V 3RS
                                                       Manga Dreams showcases the work of                                                                                                                                     020 7490 1771; www.magnumphotos.com
                                                       photographers Jonathan Anderson and                                                                                                                                    Until 26 February
                                                                                                                                                            JONATHAN ANDERSON AND EDWIN LOW




                                                       Edwin Low, whose new project explores                                                                                                                                  The Magnum Mark celebrates the legacy of
                                                       the concepts of identity, culture and                                                                                                                                  Magnum’s print archive and its wealth of iconic
                                                       costume. During a trip to East Asia in                                                                                                                                 images. The exhibition uncovers the process and
                                                       2004, Jonathan and Edwin witnessed a                                                                                                                                   craft involved in printing Magnum’s famous
                                                       cultural phenomenon. The young people                                                                                                                                  photographs, as well as examining its traditional
                                                       were tailoring their look to mimic that                                                                                                                                image distribution. Previously unseen press prints
                                                       of the manga cartoon characters.                                                                                                                                       will be included in the exhibition, alongside work
                                                       Anderson and Low apply this look to                                                                                                                                    from founder member George Rodger. A small
                                                       their subjects by using extremely styled                                                                                                                               collection of Magnum’s most famous work, such as
                                                       hair, elaborate costume and dramatic poses. Through digital technology and post-production,                                                                            the controversial The Falling Soldier, by Robert
                                                       Anderson and Low have created a world that no longer feels entirely like our own.                                                                                      Capa, and Marilyn Monroe on the set of The Misfits,
                                                                                                                                                                                                                              captured by Eve Arnold, will also be shown.



                                                                                                               Alistair Taylor-Young                                                                                               book The
                                                                                                               The Little Black Gallery, 13A Park Walk, Chelsea, SW1 0AJ                                                           Phonebook,
                                                                                                               020 7349 9332; www.thelittleblackgallery.com                                                                        a collection
                                                                                                               12 January to 12 February                                                                                           of images
                                                                                                               The Little Black Gallery in Chelsea presents                                                                        captured
                                                                                                               Alistair Taylor-Young’s first UK solo exhibition.                                                                   on his
ALISTAIR TAYLOR-YOUNG




                                                                                                               Specialising in fashion, beauty, travel and                                                                         mobile
                                                                                                               luxury, he is perhaps best known for his                                                                            phone.
                                                                                                               commercials and campaigns with brands                                                                               Alistair will be signing copies of his book at
                                                                                                               such as Lancôme and Dunhill. The show                                                                               the exhibition on 22 January, between 11.30am
                                                                                                               will coincide with the launch of his                                                                                and 12.30pm.

                                                                                                                                                                                                                                             www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 25
Onceinalifetime
              This month PP editor Grant Scott
              recalls a shoot with
              Jemima Khan, in Lahore,
              Pakistan, that turned into a
              week of warrior tribesmen,
              bad food, pashminas, armed
              guards and rerouted flights.
                                        It was 1999 and
                                        Jemima Khan,
                                        daughter of the late
                                        financier Sir James
                                        Goldsmith, had
                                        decamped to Lahore in
                                        northern Pakistan to
                                        live with her husband,
                                        the retired cricketer
              and recently elected politician, Imran Khan.
              I was art directing Tatler magazine which,
              through a series of connections, had managed to           Flying Michael from New York to Lahore was          A contact sheet of images featuring Grant’s journey into
              get agreement from Jemima not only to interview        going to be expensive and meant there was no           Lahore, the crumbling palace location and the view
                                                                                                                            from the top of the disused cinema.
              her about this new life but also to photograph her     money in the budget for him to bring an assistant.
              with Imran and their young sons at home in             Fortunately, he was willing to accept this and was
              Pakistan. At the time this was quite a scoop and       happy with my offer to help him as best I could.          From the moment we arrived intrigue, lack of
              therefore required my full attention to ensure that    With the team in place all that was left to organise   information and confusion became a major part
              the images were as strong as possible and that we      were the flights and our accommodation.                of everything we thought we were doing and tried
              got a commercial cover image from the shoot.              Flights were booked for the London team to fly      to do. We had been told that we would be
              The idea was that this would and should be a           with Pakistan International Airlines via the           photographing Jemima at her house. This was not
              bestselling issue.                                     capital, Islamabad. Michael would fly in direct        the case. We were instead driven to a fading and
                 The decision was made to shoot a number of          from New York and our accommodation was to be          crumbling warren of a building in the heart of
              fashion-styled portraits of Jemima, which would        arranged by Jemima. A day’s queuing at the             Lahore just behind the famous Royal Fort.
              require a small team of fashion director, hair and     Pakistan Embassy saw us all given our entrance         We were dropped off at the end of an alley where
              make-up, me and, of course, the right                  visas, after much confusion. We were ready.            we were met by our guard, a proud warrior aged
              photographer for the job. The additional member           The flight out was as good as it could be thanks    at least 60, dressed in full dusty tribal uniform
              of our team would be a friend of Jemima’s who          to an unexpected upgrade to first class for the        holding a rifle that didn’t look as if it had seen
              had helped us to arrange the shoot and would be        whole team and when we landed in Lahore we             action since the days of the Raj. He looked
              coming along to write the article.                     were ready for what was expected to be a five-day      fantastic but to me a little too like an extra from
                 I had been commissioning a New York based           shoot unlike any other we had been on before.          Carry on Up the Khyber.
              fashion photographer called Michael Mundy a lot           Our expectations were confirmed as soon as we          As any pro photographer knows, the great
              at the time. We seemed to have a lot of interests in   arrived at our hotel – a vast modern complex           unspoken art of our profession is that of
              common; I liked the way in which he approached         built specifically for an international football       flexibility. Whatever situation you find yourself
              environmental portraits and, although we had           tournament that never happened due to the              in, however bizarre, you have been employed to
GRANT SCOTT




              never met, I felt that his easygoing attitude was      country’s political unrest. It stood in stark          do a job and that’s what you need to keep focused
              exactly what we needed for a shoot which could         contrast to the real Pakistan we had seen on our       on. All of the crew and particularly Michael did
              easily throw up some unexpected situations.            short journey from the airport.                        exactly that and began a recce tour of the

                                                                                                                                         www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 27
beautiful but unexpected building to which our                                                                 An outtake from Grant’s shoot with Jemima for InStyle
guide led us. It had evidently once been a palace                                                              magazine in London.
but was now overseen by a political colleague and
supporter of Imran’s. Filled with rich textiles and                                                            Royal Fort to see street children play cricket and
faded, majestic furniture, and oozing atmosphere,                                                              the homeless inject drugs on the streets; we
it was the perfect shoot location, like a film set                                                             visited an ancient shrine and British Army
from an Indiana Jones movie. Both Michael and                                                                  graveyard at night, finding our way in the dark by
I were happy and set about working out a shoot                                                                 looking through the night vision setting of a video
schedule, along with the choice of clothes which
the fashion director wanted to concentrate on.
                                                       “The following day Jemima                               camera. We all visited Imran’s hospital, walking
                                                                                                               behind him as grateful family members literally
But where was Jemima?                                  would come for the shoot and                            fell at his feet to touch the hem of his shalwar
   No one knew but we were assured she should
arrive soon. The heat was 120°F in the shade and
                                                       over the following days                                 qameez. We sat on cushions on a stone floor in
                                                                                                               the basement of the crumbling palace while a
prevented anyone from being too worried or             tribesmen would come to visit                           young model danced a dubious folk dance, which
concerned. We would just have to wait, lounging                                                                had more to do with lapdancing than traditional
in the hammocks strung up in the shaded areas          us from the Afghan border to                            culture. We all got food poisoning. I could go on
around a courtyard. We hadn’t shot a picture yet
but we were already bonding as a team resigned
                                                       sell us high-quality                                    about this particular shoot, the sights, sounds,
                                                                                                               smells and experiences, but I won’t. Suffice to
to the fact that this would be a shoot over which      pashminas.” Grant Scott                                 say it delivered everything we hope from a shoot
we would have very little, if any control.                                                                     – a good job done and the opportunity for
   Again just as every pro photographer needs to          Having had two days to decide how and where          once-in-a-lifetime experiences.
master the ability to respond positively to            we wanted to shoot and where the available light           The flight home saw a very tired and not very
whatever is thrown at them, the ability to wait is a   was best for each portrait we moved easily              well team diverted to Manchester, from where we
much underestimated skill. I have spent hours and      through each setup. As always, preparation not          were driven back to London. Exhausted and
days of my life just waiting for that brief moment     only made life simpler for Michael and me, it           somewhat culture shocked by the whole
of action of shooting. A day’s wait for 20 minutes’    meant the shoot was pleasurable for Jemima.             experience, I returned to the office and awaited
shooting has not been unusual. In fact I once             It is all too easy to let a shoot become about the   Michael’s images.
art-directed a shoot with singer Janet Jackson in      photographer and technical considerations. In my           He had shot on colour negative, a popular
Los Angeles which took more than 24 hours to           experience this never creates great photography         choice at the time and he sent me the edited
complete two shots! But that’s another story.          and always produces a fed-up subject. Thankfully        contact sheets. There was a great cover image and
   Back in Pakistan we had all worked out that         Jemima arrived in a good mood and left in one.          more than enough portraits to make the article
nothing was going to be rushed or run to any kind         Towards the end of our set portraits, Jemima         work. Our Pakistan trip had been a success.
of schedule. Our first day saw no pictures being       asked if Michael would take some pictures of her           However, that is not the end of the story.
taken and no Jemima. Discussions were taking           and her boys, which he did in black and white.          Imran and Jemima separated some years later and
place and plans were being made for the rest of        The three of them chasing each other around the         Jemima returned with the boys to live in London.
the week, but very much on Pakistani terms.            central courtyard laughing and falling on each          The images I had help to create of her in Pakistan
That night we would be taken out for dinner; the       other made perfect relaxed family images.               had been remembered by the art director at
following day Jemima would come for the shoot          However, when Imran arrived the call was for a          InStyle magazine and they contacted me to see
and over the following days tribesmen would            more formal portrait and Michael obliged.               if, now that I was working as a photographer,
come to visit us from the Afghan border to sell us     The whole shoot had taken only a couple of hours        I would photograph her for a future issue of the
high-quality pashminas (it was the 1990s after         and we still had three days in Pakistan.                magazine. Of course I said yes.
all!), we would visit Imran Khan’s hospital for           As is so often the case it’s the memories of            Jemima was as friendly and accommodating in
cancer sufferers, we would be taken under armed        everything that happens around the actual time          London as she had been in Lahore, and suggested
guard around the markets of Lahore and finally         you spend shooting that informs your experience         that we do the portrait in her bedroom as it had
we would have a traditional dancer brought to          of a shoot. And the rest of this shoot was no           the best light. She was right and there were
our shoot location for an evening’s entertainment.     different in that respect.                              enough elements within the room to make an
Throughout this we would be based in the                  As promised, two tribal warriors came down           interesting composition – including next to her
courtyard of the crumbling palace.                     from the Afghan border with huge piles of               bed a small black-and-white print of her and her
   Day two and an early start was required to try      pashminas wrapped in ancient blankets for us to         sons taken in the courtyard of the crumbling
                                                                                                                                                                       GRANT SCOTT




to shoot before the heat became too unbearable.        buy at prices which would have seemed expensive         palace, sent to her as a gift by Michael. PP
Jemima arrived with her two young sons and we          even in Bond Street. Michael and I climbed to the
swung into action.                                     roof of a disused cinema which looked over the          www.michaelmundy.com



  GO ONLINE FOR MORE EXCLUSIVE TALES FROM THE WORLD OF PHOTOGRAPHY, VISIT WWW.PROFESSIONALPHOTOGRAPHER.CO.UK
28 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
podcast

ON YOUR
WAVELENGTH
Every month we record a free podcast discussing, debating and chatting around a subject
featured in the magazine. We post them on our website and you can subscribe for free
and download them via iTunes. So if you haven’t listened in yet, why not give them a try?
THIS MONTH’S PODCAST                               October Issue                                       report on its reception among pro photographers,
January Issue                                      THE SECRETS OF BEING A PRO                          and examine its aims. The team also asks if
ICONS OF PHOTOGRAPHY                               This month Grant Scott, Eleanor O’Kane and          photographers are becoming increasingly
PP Editor Grant Scott and deputy editor Eleanor    Peter Dench discuss the secrets of professional     isolated in a digital age and why support groups
O’Kane are joined by regular columnist             photography. Veteran pros Grant and Peter relate    are more important than ever.
and photojournalist Peter Dench to discuss the     their experiences of working alongside other
importance of learning from the masters,           photographers and how these have influenced         August Issue
the point at which a photographer becomes an       their working practices. With the days of the       THE BAD BOYS OF PHOTOGRAPHY
icon and their own personal favourites.            communal darkroom and lab long gone, the            The 25 Bad Boys of Photography list in the
                                                   opportunity to share news and advice in person      August issue is discussed by Grant Scott,
AND THOSE YOU MAY HAVE MISSED…                     has disappeared. The team also discusses how        Eleanor O’Kane and Peter Dench. The debate
December Issue                                     photographers are sharing information in the        centres on the diverse lives of the photographers
PHOTOGRAPHIC COMPETITIONS                          digital age and looks at new ways of networking,    in the final list, including Guy Bourdin, David
Grant Scott is joined by Eleanor O’Kane and        including the PP’s United States of Photography.    Bailey, Helmut Newton, David Hockney and
photographer Peter Dench to discuss the world of                                                       Wolfgang Tillmans. All 25 have broken the rules
competitions, the contentious Taylor Wessing       September Issue                                     in one way or another. The podcast team looks
Photographic Portrait Prize and whether there is   THE UNITED STATES OF PHOTOGRAPHY                    at whether being a ‘bad boy’ is merely a facade
such a thing as a formula for winning.             The regular podcast team of Grant Scott, Eleanor    for some photographers.
                                                   O’Kane and Peter Dench discuss the creation of
November Issue                                     the PP’s support group, the United States of           You can listen to the podcasts on our website
SEXY OR SEXIST?                                    Photography, which was launched in the              at www.professionalphotographer.co.uk or
Grant Scott, Eleanor O’Kane and Peter Dench        September issue. They talk about the origins of     subscribe for free and download them via iTunes
discuss why some images are seen as sexy while     the USP, which was a response to an article on      by typing professional photographer into the
others are labelled sexist.                        the loneliness of being a freelance photographer,   search tab. PP




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                                                                                                                     www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 33
dispatches        Clive Booth           tales from the frontline of professional photography




                                         This month:                   With royal wedding fever about to sweep the
                                                                       nation, just what was it that used to fill me
                                                                       with horror at the prospect of being asked to
                                         Once a reluctant guest,       be a guest at a wedding?
                                                                          Was I the only person who hated weddings?
                                         these days Clive finds that   I don’t think so. Of course, I was being
                                                                       immensely selfish, and not giving any thought to
                                         a wedding celebration         the reason why I would be considered worthy of

                                         is the perfect setting in     sharing a couple’s special day. For me there used
                                                                       to be two knots at a wedding – the bride and
                                         which to shoot candid and     groom’s and then my own, deep in the pit of my
                                                                       stomach. Knowing I would have to spend what
                                         truly emotive images in his   would seem like an eternity making polite
                                                                       conversation with people with whom, for the most
                                         signature style.
                                                                                                                           CLIVE BOOTH




                                                                       part, I would have absolutely nothing in common.
                                                                          We would dutifully RSVP. “After all, it is a
                                                                       celebration, not a funeral,” my wife would say.

34 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
“..the enjoyment of being a guest at a wedding is directly connected to how close you are to the
                       bride or groom. This dynamic is turned on its head once I have a camera. It will make
               little difference, and it is even sometimes an advantage not to know who I’m photographing,
                            as the emotional attachment can work against the purity of the moment.” Clive Booth




Our friends and relatives often did their best to     fallen in love with one of his huskies. So, why        enjoyment of being a guest at a wedding is
seat us with like-minded individuals. Yet there       am I using valuable page space to rant and moan        directly connected to how close you are to the
would always be the relative, work colleague and,     about weddings? It’s really very simple; an            bride or groom. This dynamic is turned on its
sometimes, ‘friend’, who had been invited out of      epiphany has taken place. Well, it actually took       head once I have a camera. It will make little
some sort of duty. It was with these people, in the   place several years ago. I started to pitch up with    difference, and it is even sometimes an advantage
leper colony of the wedding celebration, that I so    a camera, and even though I wasn’t invited as          not to know who I’m photographing, as the
often found myself. The thought has occurred to       the official photographer, I would shoot pictures      emotional attachment can work against the purity
me that maybe I was one of them. However, as          anyway. Doesn’t everyone take a camera to a            of the moment. For the most part my interest was
my wife, Mari, is just about the kindest, most        wedding? Admittedly, they are usually small            in catching those ‘oh so often’ elusive moments.
sensitive and thoughtful friend anyone could wish     compacts, and initially I would get strange looks      As I was invited as a guest, I had none of the
for, whom no one would want to offend, I like to      as I pulled out my Canon EOS-1Ds MkIII with            restrictions of having to make sure I photographed
think of myself as exempt. I once spent almost an     85mm prime lens; mostly from the official              ‘so-and-so’ and ‘thingamajig’; nor did I have to
entire wedding meal listening to the virtues of       photographers. However, I was discreet and stuck       shoot anything that didn’t interest me. In fact,
deep-pan pizza from the guest on my left, only to     to just the one body and single lens on a hand         I didn’t have to take any pictures at all. A great
strike up a conversation in desperation with the      strap; usually by my waist or behind my back,          place to be when shooting, as I could simply
guest on my right and learn that he had just spent    and out of sight until needed. I suppose it’s fairly   watch and wait and put the camera between me
several months in the Arctic and, while there, had    obvious, but still worth mentioning, that the          and the moment. A really great way to work; not

                                                                                                                        www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 35
dispatches
forcing the pictures, but letting them unravel          “There are upwards of quarter                      beautiful DSLR documentary films, edited to
around me – a discipline that I have used ever                                                             great music, as movie shorts.
since. Documentary: the purest form of                  of a million weddings per year                         For me a no-compromise approach to this type
photography, and one that requires great                in the UK, being documented                        of film would be imperative and so, for it to work,
discipline, observation and intuition. It’s just                                                           the bride and groom would have to take a leap of
about the most fun you can have with a camera.          by around 20,000 different                         faith. Budding film makers would need to have at
So many of the pictures I have taken at weddings        wedding photographers, whose                       least one great example of this potential new art
have really burned themselves into my memory.                                                              form to show, so as to win the case for creative
This is because a wedding, at best, should be a         fees range between £1,500                          freedom. A tricky decision this: do I shoot stills or
deeply emotional experience for those at the            and £4,000 – not to mention                        do I make a short film? Also, will I be shooting
centre, which then emanates outwards. And as                                                               solo or will I have a crew with additional
with most human emotions, happiness, when               those shooting celebrity                           photographers? At the higher end, for example,
shared, is infectious. It is rare to go to an unhappy   and society weddings... So it’s                    with A-list celebrity or society weddings, I think
wedding. It’s like swimming in a sea of emotion:                                                           this will become the norm. The potential to shoot
from the pre-church nerves, through to the              serious business. It seems to                      beautiful film shorts may, in fact, increase what a
exuberant outpouring of love expressed with             me that, in a market that must                     wedding photographer/DSLR film maker may
smiles and tears post-ceremony. If you look                                                                earn. Maybe I’m living in cloud-cuckoo-land, but
closely there will always be someone (usually a         have reached near saturation                       surely a client has to understand that this level of
bridesmaid) in a trance-like state, mesmerised by       point, the question is, what                       quality, from capture to edit, will inevitably cost
the bride, allowing herself to dream of the                                                                more money? After all, once the wedding is over
moment when she too will be a princess for the          can photographers offer that                       it’s the pictures or, indeed, the film, that will
day. All I have to do is make sure that I am in the     is different?” Clive Booth                         remain. Putting aside the huge marketing and
right place at the right time.
   I greatly admire wedding photographers, and
the ones that stand out are creating pictures which
work in their own right, regardless of the fact
that they were shot at a wedding. I’m not talking
about what seems to me the often painful and
energy-draining group shots, but the documentary
style of shooting, from such wedding luminaries
as Jeff Ascough. This work is inspirational, and
when I look at it as a photographer all I can say is,
“I wish I’d shot that.” My friend, assistant and
wedding photographer, David Griffin, gave me
an insight into wedding photography as a
profession. He said: “Most of all you have to
enjoy it. Then you have the necessary drive,
enthusiasm and energy you need if you’re going
to shoot dozens of weddings a year. People skills
are essential, along with patience, as things
don’t always go to plan. So being able to react
to changing situations while remaining calm
is imperative.”
   I have an appreciation for the sheer amount
of effort it takes to deliver on a once-in-a-lifetime
event. I certainly don’t intend this to be a guide
for wedding photographers, as many of you are           I watched Crash Taylor’s very open and honest      awareness effort, combined with talent that
far better qualified than I am to offer advice.         interview with PP editor Grant Scott, filmed at    should result in commissions, I have my own
There are upwards of quarter of a million               Canon Pro Photo Solutions 2010 [available to       philosophy and set of rules when it comes to
weddings per year in the UK, being documented           view on the Professional Photographer website].    shooting stills of weddings. These are:
by around 20,000 different wedding                      He really spelled out just what it takes to make     Number one – and probably the single most
photographers, whose fees range between £1,500          a living in the business. Much of what he said     important factor for me – I am commissioned for
and £4,000 – not to mention those shooting              applies to many of us, myself included.            my shooting style. I cannot give a cast-iron
celebrity and society weddings, or those of the         The documentary style of wedding photography       guarantee that I will photograph everyone. In my
super-rich, who demand even higher fees. So it’s        definitely seems to be on the increase, as         case the bride and groom are usually friends or,
serious business. It seems to me that, in a market      brides and grooms are looking for what I believe   on occasion, clients, so we already have an
                                                                                                                                                                   CLIVE BOOTH




that must have reached near saturation point, the       to be a collection of pictures which capture the   understanding. They know my style of shooting,
question is, what can photographers offer that is       atmosphere and the essence of their day. In my     which is why they’ve asked me. Most importantly,
different? While researching this Dispatches            opinion there is a gigantic opportunity to shoot   I’m not going to compromise that. Whether it’s

36 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
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Professional photographer uk   2011-01
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Professional photographer uk 2011-01

  • 1.
  • 2.
  • 3. welcome january Throughout my career and life I have had heroes; people I’ve looked up to, admired, been influenced by and respected for their achievements and attitude. Many of them have been photographic heroes. Most of these have been people whose work I could never hope to emulate, but from whom I have managed to grasp nuggets of insight – a few words that have given me more understanding of my work and/or the industry. It is why each month we try to bring you as many exclusive interviews with the world’s greatest photographers, so that you can benefit from their experiences and hear and learn from the best. This month we have compiled a series of interviews with some of the most iconic and important photographers in their fields and I’m honoured to have them feature in our magazine. Toscani, Watson, Schapiro and Schadeberg, thanks for the insights. Every month we feature your images and this month sees us devote 18 pages to the winning and commended images from the Professional Photographer of the Year Awards 2010 from Page 103. The quality of the images you enter gets higher by the year and ever harder to judge. I hope you agree with the selection, although as with any photography competition I’m sure there will be great debate over our choice of the winning images! We had an incredible rise in the standard of student entries this year, which bodes well for the future of our profession, despite a lot that I hear and see coming out of the universities. Someone who is giving his time to back up his beliefs is photographer Jonathan Worth. You can read about his ground-breaking Phonar Project in Turn On, Tune In, Drop In from Page 38. One of the most discussed channels for promoting a photographer’s work is the photographic exhibition. How to stage one on budget and successfully can often seem like a secret dark art, so we decided to speak to the experts to find out how to get it right. You can read what they had to say in Make an Exhibition of Yourself from Page 80. While on the subject of exhibitions, what we at PP have noticed during 2010 is the vast number of them devoted to rock photography from the past 30 years or so. We mention them and occasionally feature the most interesting but we wanted to look into the ‘Why?’ in more depth, so we asked ex-music journo Peter Silverton to take one of his personal journeys into finding out the truth and asking the difficult questions in Let it Rock from Page 74. We have had an amazing response to our new regular column The Dench Diary from Page 42 and to our revamped monthly podcasts featuring myself, our deputy editor Eleanor O’Kane and the drink-friendly, sometime working pro himself, Peter Dench. You can find out more about the podcasts in On Your Wavelength on Page 30. As the owner of a couple of Pentax 67s with lovely wooden handles I couldn’t wait to get my hands on the 645D, Pentax’s return to the THIS IMAGE / COVER IMAGE: ALBERT WATSON medium format marketplace. However, I thought that the leading garden and lifestyle photographer Jason Ingram was better placed to put it EDITOR’S IMAGE: MATT HALSTEAD through its outdoor paces. You can read his findings in Back in the Game from Page 98. Now, as I’m running out of space, it just leaves me to thank you all for your support in 2010 and to look forward to 2011. Grant Scott, Editor
  • 4.
  • 5. NEW PHOTOGRAPHY 8 Portfolio The best of your work posted in the Professional Photographer online gallery. 59 Exposure contents january Darkrooms revisited. A nostalgic look at the place many of us once called home. NEED TO KNOW 27 Being There PP Editor Grant Scott travels to northern Pakistan to photograph Jemima Khan – with the usual mishaps. 34 Dispatches Photographer Clive Booth realises that wedding photography can be a challenge and a pleasure. 42 The Dench Diary Photojournalist Peter Dench’s real-life tales of a sometime working pro. 46 Film School Film maker John Campbell’s regular news-packed look at the world of convergence. 49 Frontline The photographic director at 4 Creative, Channel 4, Ed Webster, gives advice on how to get commissioned. 146 Legend Peter Silverton takes a look at the life and times of the French street icon Robert Doisneau. INTERVIEWS WITH... 38 Turn on, Tune in, Drop in Photographer Jonathan Worth has turned photography education on its head and embraced social media. Eleanor O’Kane finds out why and how. EXCLUSIVE... 60 Photo Power Priest and nun, taken by Oliviero Toscani for a Benetton advertising campaign, 1991. Oliviero Toscani has been and remains one of the world’s most controversial photographers. Jesper Storgaard Jensen travelled to his studio section exhibiting the winners and commended in Tuscany for an exclusive conversation with this NEWS & REVIEWS images from all categories. photographic provocateur. 14 Click 135 Stop Press... 68 The All Seeing Eye This month’s line-up of the best news, dreams, The latest essential news, gossip and kit from the Albert Watson is one of the most successful and themes and photographic schemes. pro world. influential professional photographers of the past 40 years. Here he speaks to Sean Samuels about 25 Diary his career. Our pick of this month’s photographic exhibitions. KEEP IN TOUCH 80 Make an Exhibition of 57 Object of Desire 30 Podcast Yourself We fall in love with a great pair of headphones. Every month we go online to discuss the world of We speak to the decision makers to help you photography and you can hear our debate for free. understand how to create a successful exhibition of 98 Back in the Game your work. Pro photographer Jason Ingram puts the Pentax 32 Subscribe 645D through its paces. Check out our latest subscription offer so you’ll 86 The History Boys © OLIVIERO TOSCANI never miss an issue of your favourite photography We talk to documentary photographers Jürgen 103 The Professional Awards magazine again. Schadeberg and Steve Schapiro, who have been Winners Announced responsible for photographing some of the most We have had our best-ever standard of entries this 53 Feedback important moments of the last century. year, so we have celebrated with a 29-page special Your thoughts, your opinions, your page. www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 5
  • 6.
  • 7. friends january Julia Molony Sean Samuels Oliviero Toscani Jonathan Worth Journalist Journalist Photographer Photographer Julia started her career on the features Deputy editor of our sister magazine, There are few photographers working Jonathan Worth works from London desk of the Sunday Independent in Photography Monthly, Sean is an in the professional commercial arena and New York as a freelance Ireland. She is now a freelance writer occasional contributor. This month he who have created more controversy photographer where his client list living in London and covers arts, meets two legends who between them than Toscani. His driving passion to includes the New York Times and culture, entertainment and lifestyle have nearly 100 years’ experience in use his photography to get people to Vogue. He is a part-time lecturer on stories for a number of newspapers the business. On page 68 he reveals think, debate and engage has always the BA photography degree course at and magazines, including the how Albert Watson’s graphic style has been intimately connected with his Coventry University, and his research Observer and Guardian Unlimited. marked him out as one of the most innate understanding of how outrage developing sustainable working In this issue she talks to some of successful professional photographers can be used to raise a brand’s public practices for photographers has won the country’s major gallery owners of all time. He also examines the awareness. Despite his idyllic life in wide acclaim and been discussed in and curators to discover why they reportage work of Steve Schapiro, the Tuscan countryside he still retains the European Parliament. On page 38 choose to exhibit the work of certain which forms part of our feature The that passion, as Jesper Storgaard he explains how his way of thinking photographers. See page 80. History Boys on page 86. Jensen discovers on page 60. has influenced his teaching. GROUP BRAND EDITOR Grant Scott ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Eleanor Godwin SUBSCRIPTIONS/BACK ISSUES grant.scott@archant.co.uk eleanor.godwin@archant.co.uk, 01242 211092 CUSTOMER CARE 01858 438832 DEPUTY EDITOR Eleanor O’Kane DEPUTY ADVERTISING MANAGER Nicola Crosta ORDER HOTLINE 01858 438840 Professional Photographer is published eleanor.okane@archant.co.uk nicola.crosta@archant.co.uk, 01242 264785 VISIT www.subscriptionsave.co.uk monthly by Archant Specialist. ART EDITOR Rebecca Shaw SALES EXECUTIVE Leigh Barr EMAIL professionalphotographer@subscription.co.uk Archant House, Oriel Road, Cheltenham, rebecca.shaw@archant.co.uk leigh.barr@archant.co.uk, 01242 265895 HEAD OF DIRECT CUSTOMER MARKETING Gloucestershire GL50 1BB MANAGING EDITOR Simon Reynolds SALES EXECUTIVE Amy Pope Fiona Penton-Voak www.professionalphotographer.co.uk simon.reynolds@archant.co.uk amy.pope@archant.co.uk, 01242 216054 SUBSCRIPTIONS MARKETING EXECUTIVE Twitter: @prophotomag FEATURES ASSISTANT Kelly Weech CLASSIFIED SALES EXECUTIVE Bianca Dufty Lisa Flint-Elkins lisa.flint-elkins@archant.co.uk, kelly.weech@archant.co.uk bianca.dufty@archant.co.uk, 01242 211099 01242 264751 EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Jessica Lamb GROUP COMMUNICATIONS MANAGER MD SPECIALIST MAGAZINES Miller Hogg jessica.lamb@archant.co.uk Lucy Warren-Meeks, 01242 264783 CONTRIBUTING EDITORS lucy.warren-meeks@archant.co.uk WHOLESALE AND RETAIL DISTRIBUTION London: Suzanne Hodgart, Geoff Waring PRODUCTION MANAGER Susan Bozzard If you have difficulty obtaining Professional Photographer, New York: Jake Chessum, REPROGRAPHICS MANAGER Neil Puttnam contact Seymour, 86 Newman Street, London W1T 3EX Printed by William Gibbons Phyllis Giarnese, David Eustace TELEPHONE 020 7396 8000 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk feedback@professionalphotographer.co.uk 01242 264767 © Archant Specialist. Archant Specialist is part of Archant Ltd. I While reasonable care is taken to ensure the accuracy of the information in Professional Photographer, that information is obtained from a variety of sources and neither the publisher, the printers nor any distributor is responsible for errors or omissions. All prices and data are accepted by us in good faith as being correct at the time of going to press. Pound conversion rates correct at the time of going to press. Advertisements are accepted for publication in Professional Photographer only upon Archant Specialist’s standard Terms of Acceptance of Advertising, copies of which are available from the advertising department. All advertisements of which the content is in whole or in part the work of Archant Specialist remain the copyright of Archant Specialist. Reproduction in whole or in part of any matter appearing in Professional Photographer is forbidden except by express permission of the publisher. Competition terms and conditions: I The closing date for competitions/giveaways is displayed alongside the competition/giveaway online. I Employees of Archant Specialist, and those professionally connected with the competition/ giveaway, for example, employees of the sponsor company, are not eligible to enter. I Unless otherwise stated, competitions/giveaways are only open to UK residents. I Prizes are as described and no alternatives can be offered. ABC certified circulation I The editor’s decision is final and no correspondence will be entered into. I Archant Specialist may wish to contact you in the future, or pass your details to selected third parties, to introduce new products and services to you. (Jan-Dec 2009): 11,816. If you are sending your entry by text and do not wish to be contacted, please add the word ‘NO’ to the end of your text message. If you are sending your entry by post, please tick the appropriate boxes on the entry form. www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 7
  • 8. PORTFOLIO Each month we share the best of the latest postings from our online portfolio with our magazine readers, so for your chance to appear in Professional Photographer, go online and start uploading your best images to www.professionalphotographer.co.uk. If you want to see more of any photographer’s work, click on their online profile to access their website. LUIS HENRY DAVID ANDERSON, AGUDELO CANO, SCOTLAND COLOMBIA J COLLINGRIDGE, UK 8 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
  • 10. PORTFOLI LUIS HENRY AGUDELO CANO, COLOMBIA CHEN QIANG, CHINA BRUNO DE CARVALHO, PORTUGAL LUIS HENRY AGUDELO CANO, COLOMBIA 10 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
  • 11. ALEXANDER KLADOV, BELARUS JAIME PÉREZ MUNEVAR, COLOMBIA ROB PASSMORE, UK RAYMENT KIRBY, UK www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 11
  • 12. PORTFOLI RICHARD CHEN QIANG, BARRETT, CHINA UK RAPHAEL MASON, NORTHERN IRELAND PAUL BRATBY, UK JONATHAN McGEE, IRELAND 12 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
  • 13.
  • 14. click The new deal Art dealer Chris Beetles is opening a new gallery dedicated to photography, in Swallow Street, in London’s West End, that will sell work by legendary photographers such as Terry O’Neill, André Kertész and Bruce Davidson. The first show, which will take place in February, is a major retrospective of Magnum photographer Eve the latest photographic news, dreams, themes and schemes. edited by Eleanor O’Kane Arnold. A gallery owner selling fine art since 1975, Chris Beetles has been showing work by photographers since 2006 when he staged a successful show by Terry O’Neill. Since then he has shown work by British greats such as Patrick Lichfield, John Swannell, Cecil Beaton and Duffy, to name but a few. The new gallery has ANDRÉ KERTÉSZ an ambitious 2011 schedule and aims to Washington hold between six and eight exhibitions a year. Square Park, New York. www.chrisbeetlesfinephotographs.com DOMINIQUE ISSERMANN Cannes canned for Sony World Photography Awards Previously held in Cannes, the Sony World Bella Donna Photography Awards is coming to London for the first time in 2011. On 27 April, the Italian actress and model Monica Bellucci neo-classical Somerset House will play host (pictured above and right) originally wanted to be to the awards ceremony as part of a festival a lawyer and it was while studying at university which begins the previous day and includes that she began modelling to fund her studies. events, talks and seminars. During the She was signed by the Elite agency at the age of festival, which runs until 1 May, workshops 24, going on to have a successful modelling will cover topics such as compiling your career and becoming a popular actress. During portfolio, book design and merging film with her career she has appeared on the covers of stills; also photographers including Tom magazines such as Elle and Esquire as well as Stoddart and Pedro Meyer will be discussing Sports Illustrated’s celebrated Swimsuit Issue, and their work in the Photographers’ Studio. has been photographed by the likes of Bruce The awards cover genres from documentary, Weber, Helmut Newton and Ellen Von Unwerth. landscape and sport to portraiture and Now a new book from Rizzoli features 165 fashion. The winners and runners-up will be ARTEM YANKOVSKY Sony World images charting her 25-year career. The book has showcased in an exhibition running until Photography a preface by film director Giuseppe Tornatore. Awards 2011 Open 22 May. For more details on events and Competition entry. Monica Bellucci, by Monica Bellucci, published by festival tickets visit www.worldphoto.org Rizzoli, £37.50, ISBN: 978-0-8478-3507-2. 14 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
  • 15. “I’m like a muse who enjoys watching an artist portray her and who lives only through the people VINCENT PETERS who describe her form.” Monica Bellucci
  • 16.
  • 17. Let’s go deutsche The calling The shortlist for the Deutsche Börse Panos Pictures is calling for new ELAD LASSRY/ COURTESY OF DAVID KORDANSKY GALLERY, LOS ANGELES, CA Photography Prize 2011 has been announced, photojournalists to join its agency. Known for with German Thomas Demand, Israeli Elad specialising in global social issues, the agency Lassry and Americans Roe Ethridge and Jim has worked for more than 20 years with both the Goldberg making the final cut. The annual commercial and non-profit sectors. It has a list prize, which will earn the winner £30,000, is of photographers based all across the globe, awarded to a living photographer who has made from Bangladesh to Belgium, with its British the most significant contribution to photography photojournalists including Abbie Trayler-Smith in Europe between 1 October 2009 and and George Georgiou. This year the agency is 30 September 2010. Judges include Brett also encouraging photographers with Rogers of The Photographers’ Gallery, who is multimedia skills to apply – the deadline is interviewed in our feature about exhibiting 1 March. Full submission guidelines and rules your work on page 80. are available from the agency’s website. For all www.deutsche-boerse.com/art the details visit www.panos.co.uk/submissions A life less ordinary Has there ever been a photographer as versatile as Cecil Beaton? From designing book jackets, stage costumes and Broadway theatre sets to photographing the Bright Young Things of the 1920s, the devastating aftermath of the Blitz, and the Royal family – of whom he was official photographer for a period – Beaton excelled at it all. Born in Hampstead in 1904 to a prosperous family of timber ASSOULINE merchants, the young Beaton was introduced to photography by his nanny, who owned a Kodak 3A. After graduating from Cambridge University he lasted just a week in the family business before leaving to set up his own studio and from there he went on Beaton: The Art of the Scrapbook. Brought out by French publisher to work as a staff photographer for both Vanity Fair and Vogue. Known for Assouline, the book reads like a giant mood board filled with images that his society portraits and fashion images, Beaton also worked for the British embody the dreams and vision of this extraordinary talent whose life was Ministry of Information during the Second World War. His image of a as glamorous as the subjects in his society pictures. James Danziger, former three-year-old victim of the Blitz in her hospital bed clutching a teddy bear picture editor of the Sunday Times Magazine has written the introduction. was one of the most memorable of the war. Beaton: The Art of the Scrapbook, published by Assouline, £170, Now, dozens of his scrapbooks filled with clippings from magazines and ISBN: 978-275940472-8. newspapers, as well as playbills, have been immortalised in a book: www.shopassouline.com www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 17
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  • 19. ADRIAN FISK Let me take you by the hand… It seems that everyone is into street photography at the moment but the concept is nothing new as a free exhibition at the Museum of London shows. In London Street Photography, which opens on 18 February, the museum’s impressive collection of street photography from 1860 to the present day will be on display until 4 September. More than 200 images are on show at the museum in London Wall, which portrays the capital as an ever-changing city. www.museumoflondon.org.uk This is England During 2007 and 2008 photographer Simon Roberts took a road trip across England in a motor home to capture the essence of the nation’s identity through images of the country at leisure. Now, an exhibition at the Museum of Croydon, We English, is showing 29 images from the project (including Croydon summer festival, pictured), which took him to all corners of SIMON ROBERTS England. We English is showing until 26 February. www.museumofcroydon.com He sells sanctuary The dream-like, cinematic style of internationally renowned photographer GREGORY CREWDSON Gregory Crewdson evokes the elusive style of film makers such as David Lynch. On a visit to Rome, Crewdson was invited to tour Cinecittà, the legendary Italian film studio founded by Mussolini and used most famously by Federico Fellini and Roberto Rossellini. Inspired by the strange beauty he found in its crumbling film sets and desolate walkways, Crewdson decided to record the faded glory of the studios for his latest project, Sanctuary. Published in a new monograph, the black-and-white images are a new direction for Crewdson but retain the drama and beauty of his earlier work. Sanctuary, photographs by Gregory Crewdson, published by Abrams, £39.99, ISBN: 978-8109-9199-6. www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 19
  • 20. The hell of copper, Fenton’s Accra, Ghana, 2008. finest on show The National Media Museum in Bradford has ROGER FENTON, COURTESY OF THE NATIONAL MEDIA MUSEUM acquired a rare Roger NYABA LEON OUEDRAOGO Fenton image for the National Collection of Photographs. The picture, Pasha and Bayadère, dates from 1858 and depicts a dancing girl (the World class bayadère) performing for a high-ranking official; It’s all about short lists this month as we enter competition the theme reflects the season. Twelve photographers are in the running for the contemporary love affair Prix Pictet, including American photographer Taryn with all things from the Simon and the German Thomas Struth. This is the third East. It is among a series year of the competition and has the theme of growth. that Fenton shot after an expedition during the Crimean War and is considered one of his The jury, which includes last year’s winner, London-based best works. In the tableau, the pasha or official, is portrayed by Fenton himself, with the Nadav Kander, as well as art historian Michael Fried, will musician played by English landscape painter Frank Dillon. Plans are in progress to display announce the winner on 17 March. the image; in the meantime it is available to view by appointment. www.prixpictet.com www.nationalmediamusuem.org.uk 20 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
  • 21. click The future is bright The 2011 LPA Futures competition is open and organisers are calling on all emerging commercial photographers to enter. LPA Futures is a division of the Lisa Pritchard Agency and represents five up-and-coming photographers during a two-year programme. Previous winners have landed commissions from major commercial clients as well as gaining attention in international awards, such as the Taylor Wessing Photographic Portrait Prize and the World Press Photo Awards. Judges include Tim Cole, the head of photography for Saatchi & Saatchi Design, and Laura Pannack, one of the 2009 LPA Futures photographers, who took first prize in the portrait singles category of the World Press Photo 2010 awards. LAURA PANNACK The deadline for entries is 7 February 2011. For details about how to enter visit www.lisapritchard.com www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 21
  • 22. click Let’s dance We featured British legend Colin Jones in our October 2010 issue, telling how he went from ballet dancer to documenter of black activism. Now Proud Chelsea presents an exhibition of his images in Fifty Years of the Royal Ballet, photographs by Colin Jones, which runs from 13 January to 27 February. Jones won a scholarship to the Royal Ballet School in 1953 and it was while touring with the company that he bought his first camera in Japan. After a trial with the Observer his career took off and the rest, as they COLIN JONES / ARENAPAL.COM say, is history. For the exhibition, Proud had full access to Jones’s archive which provides a rare glimpse of life behind the scenes of the Royal Ballet School. Portraits of stars such as Dame Margot Fonteyn and Rudolf Nureyev sit alongside action shots and intimate behind-the-scenes images of a glamorous and often gruelling world. Fifty Years of the Royal Ballet, photographs by Colin Jones, 13 January to 27 February. www.proud.co.uk DARCY PADILLA An image from The Julie Project. Badge of honour ALBERT WATSON AND THE MACALLAN San Francisco-based photographer Darcy Padilla has Juan Pruano Duque, been awarded the 2010 the oldest cooper, Tevasa Cooperage, W Eugene Smith Grant in Jerez, Spain, 2010. Humanistic Photography for her SUN LEE photo-essay The Julie Project, a study of AIDS, poverty and Capturing the spirit drugs in America. Padilla’s entry Rising sun was picked from more than 182 Renowned photographer Albert Watson has collaborated with entries from 32 countries and her Sun Lee was judged the overall winner Macallan, makers of single malt Scotch whisky, to shoot a series of prize includes a $30,000 grant to at the Association of Photographers black-and-white images for The Macallan Masters of Photography. continue her exploration of the Assistant Awards 2010, which also The project tells of the prized sherry oak casks that contribute 60% human condition. The W Eugene recognised seven best in category of the whisky’s flavour. Starting in the forests of northern Spain, Smith Memorial Fund was winners as well as giving nine merits. before going to the cooperage in Jerez in the south and culminating established in 1979 to honour His image Railyard (above) took in Scotland, the project took Watson on a journey that lasted 12 days the life and work of the the overall prize as well as the best in as he captured the story of The Macallan from acorn to glass. celebrated photojournalist; it category for environmental single. The work will be exhibited around the world and a series of provides grants to photographers The catalogue featuring all limited-edition signed platinum prints will be available. Don’t miss whose work exemplifies 92 short-listed images is available our exclusive interview feature with Albert Watson on page 68. his attitude to photography. via Blurb or at the AOP Gallery. www.themacallan.com www.smithfund.org http://awards.the-aop.org 22 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
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  • 25. We have done the hard work for you and chosen the best photographic exhibitions on show this month. For a full list of exhibitions and events visit www.professionalphotographer.co.uk Twentieth Century Portraits: Photographs by Dmitri Kasterine National Portrait Gallery, St Martin’s Place, London, WC2H 0HE 020 7306 0055; www.npg.org.uk Until 3 April Dmitri Kasterine’s remarkable portraits are on display in the United Kingdom for the first time this winter at the National Portrait DMITRI KASTERINE / NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY, LONDON Gallery in London. Kasterine has photographed some of the most famous cultural figures of the 20th century, including Samuel Beckett, David Hockney, Stanley Kubrick and Francis Bacon. Twenty newly-acquired photographs will be shown in the exhibition for the first time. Although the exhibition has been running for a while now, we think it is definitely DAVID SEYMOUR / MAGNUM PHOTOS worth a visit. Stanley Kubrick, London, 1969. Manga Dreams Hamilton’s Gallery, 13 Carlos Place, London, W1K 2EU Sophia Loren. 020 7499 9494; www.andersonandlow.com www.hamiltonsgallery.com The Magnum Mark 27 January to 5 March Magnum Print Room, 63 Gee Street, London, EC1V 3RS Manga Dreams showcases the work of 020 7490 1771; www.magnumphotos.com photographers Jonathan Anderson and Until 26 February JONATHAN ANDERSON AND EDWIN LOW Edwin Low, whose new project explores The Magnum Mark celebrates the legacy of the concepts of identity, culture and Magnum’s print archive and its wealth of iconic costume. During a trip to East Asia in images. The exhibition uncovers the process and 2004, Jonathan and Edwin witnessed a craft involved in printing Magnum’s famous cultural phenomenon. The young people photographs, as well as examining its traditional were tailoring their look to mimic that image distribution. Previously unseen press prints of the manga cartoon characters. will be included in the exhibition, alongside work Anderson and Low apply this look to from founder member George Rodger. A small their subjects by using extremely styled collection of Magnum’s most famous work, such as hair, elaborate costume and dramatic poses. Through digital technology and post-production, the controversial The Falling Soldier, by Robert Anderson and Low have created a world that no longer feels entirely like our own. Capa, and Marilyn Monroe on the set of The Misfits, captured by Eve Arnold, will also be shown. Alistair Taylor-Young book The The Little Black Gallery, 13A Park Walk, Chelsea, SW1 0AJ Phonebook, 020 7349 9332; www.thelittleblackgallery.com a collection 12 January to 12 February of images The Little Black Gallery in Chelsea presents captured Alistair Taylor-Young’s first UK solo exhibition. on his ALISTAIR TAYLOR-YOUNG Specialising in fashion, beauty, travel and mobile luxury, he is perhaps best known for his phone. commercials and campaigns with brands Alistair will be signing copies of his book at such as Lancôme and Dunhill. The show the exhibition on 22 January, between 11.30am will coincide with the launch of his and 12.30pm. www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 25
  • 26.
  • 27. Onceinalifetime This month PP editor Grant Scott recalls a shoot with Jemima Khan, in Lahore, Pakistan, that turned into a week of warrior tribesmen, bad food, pashminas, armed guards and rerouted flights. It was 1999 and Jemima Khan, daughter of the late financier Sir James Goldsmith, had decamped to Lahore in northern Pakistan to live with her husband, the retired cricketer and recently elected politician, Imran Khan. I was art directing Tatler magazine which, through a series of connections, had managed to Flying Michael from New York to Lahore was A contact sheet of images featuring Grant’s journey into get agreement from Jemima not only to interview going to be expensive and meant there was no Lahore, the crumbling palace location and the view from the top of the disused cinema. her about this new life but also to photograph her money in the budget for him to bring an assistant. with Imran and their young sons at home in Fortunately, he was willing to accept this and was Pakistan. At the time this was quite a scoop and happy with my offer to help him as best I could. From the moment we arrived intrigue, lack of therefore required my full attention to ensure that With the team in place all that was left to organise information and confusion became a major part the images were as strong as possible and that we were the flights and our accommodation. of everything we thought we were doing and tried got a commercial cover image from the shoot. Flights were booked for the London team to fly to do. We had been told that we would be The idea was that this would and should be a with Pakistan International Airlines via the photographing Jemima at her house. This was not bestselling issue. capital, Islamabad. Michael would fly in direct the case. We were instead driven to a fading and The decision was made to shoot a number of from New York and our accommodation was to be crumbling warren of a building in the heart of fashion-styled portraits of Jemima, which would arranged by Jemima. A day’s queuing at the Lahore just behind the famous Royal Fort. require a small team of fashion director, hair and Pakistan Embassy saw us all given our entrance We were dropped off at the end of an alley where make-up, me and, of course, the right visas, after much confusion. We were ready. we were met by our guard, a proud warrior aged photographer for the job. The additional member The flight out was as good as it could be thanks at least 60, dressed in full dusty tribal uniform of our team would be a friend of Jemima’s who to an unexpected upgrade to first class for the holding a rifle that didn’t look as if it had seen had helped us to arrange the shoot and would be whole team and when we landed in Lahore we action since the days of the Raj. He looked coming along to write the article. were ready for what was expected to be a five-day fantastic but to me a little too like an extra from I had been commissioning a New York based shoot unlike any other we had been on before. Carry on Up the Khyber. fashion photographer called Michael Mundy a lot Our expectations were confirmed as soon as we As any pro photographer knows, the great at the time. We seemed to have a lot of interests in arrived at our hotel – a vast modern complex unspoken art of our profession is that of common; I liked the way in which he approached built specifically for an international football flexibility. Whatever situation you find yourself environmental portraits and, although we had tournament that never happened due to the in, however bizarre, you have been employed to GRANT SCOTT never met, I felt that his easygoing attitude was country’s political unrest. It stood in stark do a job and that’s what you need to keep focused exactly what we needed for a shoot which could contrast to the real Pakistan we had seen on our on. All of the crew and particularly Michael did easily throw up some unexpected situations. short journey from the airport. exactly that and began a recce tour of the www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 27
  • 28. beautiful but unexpected building to which our An outtake from Grant’s shoot with Jemima for InStyle guide led us. It had evidently once been a palace magazine in London. but was now overseen by a political colleague and supporter of Imran’s. Filled with rich textiles and Royal Fort to see street children play cricket and faded, majestic furniture, and oozing atmosphere, the homeless inject drugs on the streets; we it was the perfect shoot location, like a film set visited an ancient shrine and British Army from an Indiana Jones movie. Both Michael and graveyard at night, finding our way in the dark by I were happy and set about working out a shoot looking through the night vision setting of a video schedule, along with the choice of clothes which the fashion director wanted to concentrate on. “The following day Jemima camera. We all visited Imran’s hospital, walking behind him as grateful family members literally But where was Jemima? would come for the shoot and fell at his feet to touch the hem of his shalwar No one knew but we were assured she should arrive soon. The heat was 120°F in the shade and over the following days qameez. We sat on cushions on a stone floor in the basement of the crumbling palace while a prevented anyone from being too worried or tribesmen would come to visit young model danced a dubious folk dance, which concerned. We would just have to wait, lounging had more to do with lapdancing than traditional in the hammocks strung up in the shaded areas us from the Afghan border to culture. We all got food poisoning. I could go on around a courtyard. We hadn’t shot a picture yet but we were already bonding as a team resigned sell us high-quality about this particular shoot, the sights, sounds, smells and experiences, but I won’t. Suffice to to the fact that this would be a shoot over which pashminas.” Grant Scott say it delivered everything we hope from a shoot we would have very little, if any control. – a good job done and the opportunity for Again just as every pro photographer needs to Having had two days to decide how and where once-in-a-lifetime experiences. master the ability to respond positively to we wanted to shoot and where the available light The flight home saw a very tired and not very whatever is thrown at them, the ability to wait is a was best for each portrait we moved easily well team diverted to Manchester, from where we much underestimated skill. I have spent hours and through each setup. As always, preparation not were driven back to London. Exhausted and days of my life just waiting for that brief moment only made life simpler for Michael and me, it somewhat culture shocked by the whole of action of shooting. A day’s wait for 20 minutes’ meant the shoot was pleasurable for Jemima. experience, I returned to the office and awaited shooting has not been unusual. In fact I once It is all too easy to let a shoot become about the Michael’s images. art-directed a shoot with singer Janet Jackson in photographer and technical considerations. In my He had shot on colour negative, a popular Los Angeles which took more than 24 hours to experience this never creates great photography choice at the time and he sent me the edited complete two shots! But that’s another story. and always produces a fed-up subject. Thankfully contact sheets. There was a great cover image and Back in Pakistan we had all worked out that Jemima arrived in a good mood and left in one. more than enough portraits to make the article nothing was going to be rushed or run to any kind Towards the end of our set portraits, Jemima work. Our Pakistan trip had been a success. of schedule. Our first day saw no pictures being asked if Michael would take some pictures of her However, that is not the end of the story. taken and no Jemima. Discussions were taking and her boys, which he did in black and white. Imran and Jemima separated some years later and place and plans were being made for the rest of The three of them chasing each other around the Jemima returned with the boys to live in London. the week, but very much on Pakistani terms. central courtyard laughing and falling on each The images I had help to create of her in Pakistan That night we would be taken out for dinner; the other made perfect relaxed family images. had been remembered by the art director at following day Jemima would come for the shoot However, when Imran arrived the call was for a InStyle magazine and they contacted me to see and over the following days tribesmen would more formal portrait and Michael obliged. if, now that I was working as a photographer, come to visit us from the Afghan border to sell us The whole shoot had taken only a couple of hours I would photograph her for a future issue of the high-quality pashminas (it was the 1990s after and we still had three days in Pakistan. magazine. Of course I said yes. all!), we would visit Imran Khan’s hospital for As is so often the case it’s the memories of Jemima was as friendly and accommodating in cancer sufferers, we would be taken under armed everything that happens around the actual time London as she had been in Lahore, and suggested guard around the markets of Lahore and finally you spend shooting that informs your experience that we do the portrait in her bedroom as it had we would have a traditional dancer brought to of a shoot. And the rest of this shoot was no the best light. She was right and there were our shoot location for an evening’s entertainment. different in that respect. enough elements within the room to make an Throughout this we would be based in the As promised, two tribal warriors came down interesting composition – including next to her courtyard of the crumbling palace. from the Afghan border with huge piles of bed a small black-and-white print of her and her Day two and an early start was required to try pashminas wrapped in ancient blankets for us to sons taken in the courtyard of the crumbling GRANT SCOTT to shoot before the heat became too unbearable. buy at prices which would have seemed expensive palace, sent to her as a gift by Michael. PP Jemima arrived with her two young sons and we even in Bond Street. Michael and I climbed to the swung into action. roof of a disused cinema which looked over the www.michaelmundy.com GO ONLINE FOR MORE EXCLUSIVE TALES FROM THE WORLD OF PHOTOGRAPHY, VISIT WWW.PROFESSIONALPHOTOGRAPHER.CO.UK 28 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
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  • 30. podcast ON YOUR WAVELENGTH Every month we record a free podcast discussing, debating and chatting around a subject featured in the magazine. We post them on our website and you can subscribe for free and download them via iTunes. So if you haven’t listened in yet, why not give them a try? THIS MONTH’S PODCAST October Issue report on its reception among pro photographers, January Issue THE SECRETS OF BEING A PRO and examine its aims. The team also asks if ICONS OF PHOTOGRAPHY This month Grant Scott, Eleanor O’Kane and photographers are becoming increasingly PP Editor Grant Scott and deputy editor Eleanor Peter Dench discuss the secrets of professional isolated in a digital age and why support groups O’Kane are joined by regular columnist photography. Veteran pros Grant and Peter relate are more important than ever. and photojournalist Peter Dench to discuss the their experiences of working alongside other importance of learning from the masters, photographers and how these have influenced August Issue the point at which a photographer becomes an their working practices. With the days of the THE BAD BOYS OF PHOTOGRAPHY icon and their own personal favourites. communal darkroom and lab long gone, the The 25 Bad Boys of Photography list in the opportunity to share news and advice in person August issue is discussed by Grant Scott, AND THOSE YOU MAY HAVE MISSED… has disappeared. The team also discusses how Eleanor O’Kane and Peter Dench. The debate December Issue photographers are sharing information in the centres on the diverse lives of the photographers PHOTOGRAPHIC COMPETITIONS digital age and looks at new ways of networking, in the final list, including Guy Bourdin, David Grant Scott is joined by Eleanor O’Kane and including the PP’s United States of Photography. Bailey, Helmut Newton, David Hockney and photographer Peter Dench to discuss the world of Wolfgang Tillmans. All 25 have broken the rules competitions, the contentious Taylor Wessing September Issue in one way or another. The podcast team looks Photographic Portrait Prize and whether there is THE UNITED STATES OF PHOTOGRAPHY at whether being a ‘bad boy’ is merely a facade such a thing as a formula for winning. The regular podcast team of Grant Scott, Eleanor for some photographers. O’Kane and Peter Dench discuss the creation of November Issue the PP’s support group, the United States of You can listen to the podcasts on our website SEXY OR SEXIST? Photography, which was launched in the at www.professionalphotographer.co.uk or Grant Scott, Eleanor O’Kane and Peter Dench September issue. They talk about the origins of subscribe for free and download them via iTunes discuss why some images are seen as sexy while the USP, which was a response to an article on by typing professional photographer into the others are labelled sexist. the loneliness of being a freelance photographer, search tab. PP 30 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
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  • 32. Save up to when you subscribe 58% As little as £1.66 per issue This is your last chance to receive this great saving on Professional Photographer, subscribe today and save up to 58% - that’s just £1.66 per issue. Subscribe to Professional Photographer by Direct Debit for just £5 every three months, saving 58%. Or subscribe for £25 by credit/debit card, saving 47%. GREAT REASONS TO SUBSCRIBE • Last chance to save 58% on 12 issues of Professional Photographer. • Spread the cost by Direct Debit – just £5 every quarter! • Receive all issues delivered straight to your door for FREE. • NEW! Free access to a fully searchable archive of digital editions at www.subscription.co.uk/help/archant SUBSCRIBE VISIT: www.subscriptionsave.co.uk/pp/page CALL: 01858 438840 and quote 01PA 32 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
  • 33. Every issue contains exclusive interviews with the world’s greatest photographers, industry news, the latest kit and must-read articles from the world of professional photography. Terms and conditions: Professional Photographer is published 12 times a year. Savings are based on a cover price of £3.99 per issue. Details of Direct Debit guarantee available on request. For overseas orders please call +44 (0) 1858 438840 or visit www.subscriptionsave.co.uk. Offer ends 26 January 2011. www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 33
  • 34. dispatches Clive Booth tales from the frontline of professional photography This month: With royal wedding fever about to sweep the nation, just what was it that used to fill me with horror at the prospect of being asked to Once a reluctant guest, be a guest at a wedding? Was I the only person who hated weddings? these days Clive finds that I don’t think so. Of course, I was being immensely selfish, and not giving any thought to a wedding celebration the reason why I would be considered worthy of is the perfect setting in sharing a couple’s special day. For me there used to be two knots at a wedding – the bride and which to shoot candid and groom’s and then my own, deep in the pit of my stomach. Knowing I would have to spend what truly emotive images in his would seem like an eternity making polite conversation with people with whom, for the most signature style. CLIVE BOOTH part, I would have absolutely nothing in common. We would dutifully RSVP. “After all, it is a celebration, not a funeral,” my wife would say. 34 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk
  • 35. “..the enjoyment of being a guest at a wedding is directly connected to how close you are to the bride or groom. This dynamic is turned on its head once I have a camera. It will make little difference, and it is even sometimes an advantage not to know who I’m photographing, as the emotional attachment can work against the purity of the moment.” Clive Booth Our friends and relatives often did their best to fallen in love with one of his huskies. So, why enjoyment of being a guest at a wedding is seat us with like-minded individuals. Yet there am I using valuable page space to rant and moan directly connected to how close you are to the would always be the relative, work colleague and, about weddings? It’s really very simple; an bride or groom. This dynamic is turned on its sometimes, ‘friend’, who had been invited out of epiphany has taken place. Well, it actually took head once I have a camera. It will make little some sort of duty. It was with these people, in the place several years ago. I started to pitch up with difference, and it is even sometimes an advantage leper colony of the wedding celebration, that I so a camera, and even though I wasn’t invited as not to know who I’m photographing, as the often found myself. The thought has occurred to the official photographer, I would shoot pictures emotional attachment can work against the purity me that maybe I was one of them. However, as anyway. Doesn’t everyone take a camera to a of the moment. For the most part my interest was my wife, Mari, is just about the kindest, most wedding? Admittedly, they are usually small in catching those ‘oh so often’ elusive moments. sensitive and thoughtful friend anyone could wish compacts, and initially I would get strange looks As I was invited as a guest, I had none of the for, whom no one would want to offend, I like to as I pulled out my Canon EOS-1Ds MkIII with restrictions of having to make sure I photographed think of myself as exempt. I once spent almost an 85mm prime lens; mostly from the official ‘so-and-so’ and ‘thingamajig’; nor did I have to entire wedding meal listening to the virtues of photographers. However, I was discreet and stuck shoot anything that didn’t interest me. In fact, deep-pan pizza from the guest on my left, only to to just the one body and single lens on a hand I didn’t have to take any pictures at all. A great strike up a conversation in desperation with the strap; usually by my waist or behind my back, place to be when shooting, as I could simply guest on my right and learn that he had just spent and out of sight until needed. I suppose it’s fairly watch and wait and put the camera between me several months in the Arctic and, while there, had obvious, but still worth mentioning, that the and the moment. A really great way to work; not www.professionalphotographer.co.uk 35
  • 36. dispatches forcing the pictures, but letting them unravel “There are upwards of quarter beautiful DSLR documentary films, edited to around me – a discipline that I have used ever great music, as movie shorts. since. Documentary: the purest form of of a million weddings per year For me a no-compromise approach to this type photography, and one that requires great in the UK, being documented of film would be imperative and so, for it to work, discipline, observation and intuition. It’s just the bride and groom would have to take a leap of about the most fun you can have with a camera. by around 20,000 different faith. Budding film makers would need to have at So many of the pictures I have taken at weddings wedding photographers, whose least one great example of this potential new art have really burned themselves into my memory. form to show, so as to win the case for creative This is because a wedding, at best, should be a fees range between £1,500 freedom. A tricky decision this: do I shoot stills or deeply emotional experience for those at the and £4,000 – not to mention do I make a short film? Also, will I be shooting centre, which then emanates outwards. And as solo or will I have a crew with additional with most human emotions, happiness, when those shooting celebrity photographers? At the higher end, for example, shared, is infectious. It is rare to go to an unhappy and society weddings... So it’s with A-list celebrity or society weddings, I think wedding. It’s like swimming in a sea of emotion: this will become the norm. The potential to shoot from the pre-church nerves, through to the serious business. It seems to beautiful film shorts may, in fact, increase what a exuberant outpouring of love expressed with me that, in a market that must wedding photographer/DSLR film maker may smiles and tears post-ceremony. If you look earn. Maybe I’m living in cloud-cuckoo-land, but closely there will always be someone (usually a have reached near saturation surely a client has to understand that this level of bridesmaid) in a trance-like state, mesmerised by point, the question is, what quality, from capture to edit, will inevitably cost the bride, allowing herself to dream of the more money? After all, once the wedding is over moment when she too will be a princess for the can photographers offer that it’s the pictures or, indeed, the film, that will day. All I have to do is make sure that I am in the is different?” Clive Booth remain. Putting aside the huge marketing and right place at the right time. I greatly admire wedding photographers, and the ones that stand out are creating pictures which work in their own right, regardless of the fact that they were shot at a wedding. I’m not talking about what seems to me the often painful and energy-draining group shots, but the documentary style of shooting, from such wedding luminaries as Jeff Ascough. This work is inspirational, and when I look at it as a photographer all I can say is, “I wish I’d shot that.” My friend, assistant and wedding photographer, David Griffin, gave me an insight into wedding photography as a profession. He said: “Most of all you have to enjoy it. Then you have the necessary drive, enthusiasm and energy you need if you’re going to shoot dozens of weddings a year. People skills are essential, along with patience, as things don’t always go to plan. So being able to react to changing situations while remaining calm is imperative.” I have an appreciation for the sheer amount of effort it takes to deliver on a once-in-a-lifetime event. I certainly don’t intend this to be a guide for wedding photographers, as many of you are I watched Crash Taylor’s very open and honest awareness effort, combined with talent that far better qualified than I am to offer advice. interview with PP editor Grant Scott, filmed at should result in commissions, I have my own There are upwards of quarter of a million Canon Pro Photo Solutions 2010 [available to philosophy and set of rules when it comes to weddings per year in the UK, being documented view on the Professional Photographer website]. shooting stills of weddings. These are: by around 20,000 different wedding He really spelled out just what it takes to make Number one – and probably the single most photographers, whose fees range between £1,500 a living in the business. Much of what he said important factor for me – I am commissioned for and £4,000 – not to mention those shooting applies to many of us, myself included. my shooting style. I cannot give a cast-iron celebrity and society weddings, or those of the The documentary style of wedding photography guarantee that I will photograph everyone. In my super-rich, who demand even higher fees. So it’s definitely seems to be on the increase, as case the bride and groom are usually friends or, serious business. It seems to me that, in a market brides and grooms are looking for what I believe on occasion, clients, so we already have an CLIVE BOOTH that must have reached near saturation point, the to be a collection of pictures which capture the understanding. They know my style of shooting, question is, what can photographers offer that is atmosphere and the essence of their day. In my which is why they’ve asked me. Most importantly, different? While researching this Dispatches opinion there is a gigantic opportunity to shoot I’m not going to compromise that. Whether it’s 36 www.professionalphotographer.co.uk