Textile - Introduction & Overview
•
25 j'aime•9,219 vues
Vol. I discusses textiles including manufacturing, fiber types, and classification. Vol. II focuses on the Indian textile industry and Surat market. Surat is the largest producer of sarees in the world, with over 4.7 lakh powerlooms. It faces challenges like labor shortages and lack of branding. However, innovations like the new textiles university and Global Fabric Resource Centre aim to develop skills and introduce new markets.
Recommandé
Contenu connexe
Tendances
Tendances (20)
En vedette
En vedette (20)
Similaire à Textile - Introduction & Overview
Similaire à Textile - Introduction & Overview (20)
Plus de Mastermind Training & Consultancy Services Pvt Ltd
Plus de Mastermind Training & Consultancy Services Pvt Ltd (20)
Dernier
Dernier (12)
Textile - Introduction & Overview
- 1. Textile Vol. I: All about textile Vol. 2: An overview-India & Surat
- 2. Mastermind Credo We Will Always Work For The Need Of Micro, Small And Medium Enterprises And For The Individual Entrepreneurs. We Will Always Learn & Upgrade And Develop Our Capacities To Serve Them, To Empower Them, To Develop Their Confidence And Make Them Successful And Happy In Life. For Customers
- 3. Objectives Vol 1: Understanding manufacturing, types & classification of textile Vol 2: Indian textile industry Surat textile market
- 6. Types of Fibre Types of Fiber Natural Animal based (Wool, Silk, etc.) Plant Based (Cotton, etc.) Mineral based (Fiberglass, etc.) Synthetic (Polyster, Rayon, etc.)
- 7. Process of Cotton to Fibre Cotton Cultivation Harvesting Ginning Carding Drawing
- 8. Polyster Chips POY (Partially Own Yarn) Process of Polymers to Polyester Fibre
- 10. Types of Yarn Types of Yarn Spun Yarn ( Cotton, Wool) Filament Yarn (Nylon) Texturized Yarn (Polyster)
- 11. Griege manufacturing process Winding Bobbin TFO / Sizing
- 14. Types of Powerloom Shuttle Loom • Oldest type of weaving loom. • Speed ranges from 110 to 225 picks per minute (ppm). • Slow and noisy. Water Jet Loom • Pre measured length of weft yarn is carried across loom by jet of water. • Speeds up between 800- 1200 ppm and very low noise. • Only yarns that are not readily absorbent can be used. Air Jet Loom • Jet of air is used to propel weft yarn through shed at speed between 800-1000 ppm. • Heavier yarns are suitable for air jet looms.
- 15. Types of Powerloom Projectile Loom • Sometimes called missile loom • All filling yarns are inserted from same side of loom. • Can produce up to 300 ppm and is less noisier. Rapier Loom • Comes in many types. • Very efficient and speed ranges from 400 to 650 ppm. • Can manufacture variety of fabrics ranging
- 16. Saree Manufacturing Process Purchase processed griege fabric Dyeing or Printing Value addition (Embroidery, Hand work, etc.) Quality check
- 17. Allied Industries Digital Printing Hand zari Work Embroidery Work Lace
- 18. Textile Industry size in IndiaOne of world's largest producers & second largest exporter of textiles and garments Contributes about 14 % to industrial production, 4 % to GDP, & 27 % to country's foreign exchange inflows Provides direct employment to over 45 million people According to Technopak Advisors, potential size of Indian textiles & apparel industry is expected to reach US$ 223 billion by 2021 India's textile exports share
- 19. Various Textile Markets in IndiaIchalkaranji Its home to one of oldest textile industries in India. Weavers produce denim, canvas, chiffon & fabric for school uniforms. Fabrics made are used by many domestic and international fashion brands such as Raymond’s of India, Armani, Banana Republic, Hugo Boss, etc. Coimbatore Called as the "Manchester of South India" due to its extensive textile industry. Various central textile research institutes are placed here. Malegaon Major hub for cloth weaving using early twentieth century power looms. Has an estimated 3 lakh power looms producing about 1 crore meters of cloth every day.
- 20. Continued...... Bhiwandi Bhiwandi Nizampur is the 2nd largest power loom centre in the country after Surat city powerloom. Tirpur “Knitwear Capital" of India. Gained universal recognition as the leading source of Hosiery, Knitted Garments, Casual Wear and Sportswear. Major source of Foreign Exchange for the country because of its exports.
- 21. Continued...... Ludhiana Apparel industry Ludhiana is famous all over India for its woolen sweaters , hosiery and cotton T-shirts; most of the top Indian woolen apparel brands are based in Ludhiana. 85 to 90 per cent demand of woollen market in India is supplied by Ludhiana. Total size of Ludhiana's hosiery industry is about Rs 14,000 crore, with majority of units in SME sector Varansi Silk weaving is the dominant manufacturing industry in Varanasi. Production of silk often uses bonded child labour Threatened by mechanised units producing the Baranasi silk saris & saris made of cheaper synthetic alternatives to silk.
- 22. Surat World’s largest producer of sarees & women’s ethnic clothing. Weavers weave around 3 crore metre of fabric per day Out of total 10 lakh workers in textile industry, around 7 lakh are employed with powerloom sector. According to a survey conducted by ACNeilsen ORG MARG for ministry of textiles, Government of India in 2014: Surat has emerged as the biggest MMF hub. Out of 4,88,649 powerlooms in Gujarat, Surat has 4,70,496. Only 14,364 shuttleless looms.
- 24. Innovation Dupont joined hands with Reliance Industries and Vipul Sarees for use of Sorona® to make an ‘environment-friendly’ version of ethnic wear for women. It enhances attributes of other fibers when blended together Benefits for Saree Traders: New innovative fibre for silk-like applications Offerings across all four top segments: chiffon, georgette, satin and crepe Sorona® helps fabrics retain their shape even after numerous washes
- 25. 6 decades of Surat's Textile Industry Association On 31st Jan 2015, Surat Art Silk Cloth Manufacturers Association (SASCMA) celebrated 60 years of its establishment. Surat Art Silk Co-operative Society jointly celebrated completion of 40 years on the occasion organized by Surat Technical Education & Research (STER).
- 26. Global Fabric Resource & Research Centre (GFRRC) To introduce new markets and new products for Textile Industry of South Gujarat, GFRRC was setup. It is an one-stop-shop for Weavers and Textile Traders. Fabrics sourced from around the world are displayed along with their technical specifications. Centre provides information on composition and other technical details about fabrics and their market potential to the weavers, processors and traders.
- 27. Surat Dreams "Surat Dreams" is India's leading textile exhibition B to B Fashion Textile event Fashion Thrills has crowned Surat with title of most happening brand of Fashion Textile. It is an exclusive platform which marks the meeting of Dealers, Traders, Exporters as well as Fashion Designers. Upcoming 11th Session in Dubai on 13th -14th April.
- 28. Upcoming Textile University in Surat For skill development in textile industry, Gujarat government is planning to set up a textiles university. Though India accounts for 4.5 % of world’s textile trade, it does not have a full-fledged textiles university. While Pakistan established one such university in 1959 & Bangladesh in 2010. However, formal announcement for setting up textiles university can only be made after bill in this regard is passed in state assembly & formal procedure is complete.
- 29. Challenges faced in Surat Weavers and traders lack in knowledge about fabrics in fashion around world. No consistency in production level (Per machine production levels is not steady) Labour shortage from Feb to June every year Owners can’t find staff at medium level for production & operations. High dependency on brokers for sales at all levels. No focus on marketing/branding at all. High credit period which result in low rotation of cash in business.
Notes de l'éditeur
- Shuttle loom: oldest type of weaving loom which uses a shuttle which contains a bobbin of filling yarn that appears through a hole situated in the side. The shuttle is batted across the loom and during this process, it leaves a trail of the filling at the rate of about 110 to 225 picks per minute (ppm). Although very effective and versatile, the shuttle looms are slow and noisy. Also the shuttle sometimes leads to abrasion on the warp yarns and at other times causes thread breaks. As a result the machine has to be stopped for tying the broken yarns. Projectile Loom: It is sometimes called missile loom as the picking action is done by a series of small bullet like projectiles which hold the weft yarn and carry it through the shed and then return empty. All the filling yarns are inserted from the same side of the loom. A special tucking device holds the ends of the wefts in place at the edge of the cloth to form the selvage. This loom needs smooth, uniform yarn which is properly sized in order to reduce friction. Projectile loom can produce up to 300 ppm and is less noisier then the shuttle loom.
- Shuttle loom: oldest type of weaving loom which uses a shuttle which contains a bobbin of filling yarn that appears through a hole situated in the side. The shuttle is batted across the loom and during this process, it leaves a trail of the filling at the rate of about 110 to 225 picks per minute (ppm). Although very effective and versatile, the shuttle looms are slow and noisy. Also the shuttle sometimes leads to abrasion on the warp yarns and at other times causes thread breaks. As a result the machine has to be stopped for tying the broken yarns. Projectile Loom: It is sometimes called missile loom as the picking action is done by a series of small bullet like projectiles which hold the weft yarn and carry it through the shed and then return empty. All the filling yarns are inserted from the same side of the loom. A special tucking device holds the ends of the wefts in place at the edge of the cloth to form the selvage. This loom needs smooth, uniform yarn which is properly sized in order to reduce friction. Projectile loom can produce up to 300 ppm and is less noisier then the shuttle loom.
- India is the one of the world's largest producers of textiles and garments. Abundant availability of raw materials such as cotton, wool, silk and jute as well as skilled workforce have made the country a sourcing hub. It is the world's second largest producer of textiles and garments. Provides direct employment to over 45 million people. Second largest provider of employment after agriculture India has overtaken Italy, Germany and Bangladesh to emerge as the world's second largest textile exporter, as per recent data released by 'UN Comtrade'. India's share in Global Textiles increased by 17.5 per cent in 2013 compared to 2012. Accounts for about 24% of world's spindle capacity and 8 % of global rotor capacity.
- Ichalkaranji: Before 1980 Ichalkaranji was known for cotton poplin, dhoti, and cotton saris. In mid-1980s, weavers of the city started producing denim, canvas, chiffon, and fabric for school uniforms (khaki drill). Fabrics such as seersucker, Oxford, herringbone, ripstop, chambray, tweed, and twill made in or around the Ichalkaranji city are used by many domestic and international fashion brands such as Raymond’s of India, Armani, Banana Republic, Hugo Boss, and Paul Smith.[8] The presence of a qualified workforce and the level of technical know-how and easy accessibility to finest weavers of Ichalkaranji for outsoaring and over all good social ambiance were among the factors that influenced Italian textile major Tessitura Monti,[9] Turkish textile maker ‘Soktas’, Bombay Rayon Fashions Ltd (BRFL),[10] Raymond Zambaiti Ltd (A joint venture of Raymond’s Ltd and internationally renowned Cotonificio Honegger S.P.A., part of Gruppo Zambaiti),[11] German Menswear brands Liebe, Boys R Bad and Looty[12] etc.. while planning investment near Ichalkaranji city. Malegaon: Malegaon is major hub for cloth weaving using early twentieth century power looms. The era of power looms in Malegaon emerged after 1935. Malegaon was a traditional handloom-weaving center in Maharashtra. Most of the preparatory work before weaving like starching the yarn, transferring it over the tubes, preparing tanabana was done by the women. Even after power looms were introduced, women continued to help their menfolk in the weaving procedure. With the introduction of power looms, the cloth industry in Malegaon flourished due to increased productivity. Many people bought power looms and very few were left with handlooms.It has an estimated 3 lakh power looms producing about 1 crore (10 million) meters of cloth every day. It attracts workers from various part of India, majority of migrants from U.P., Khandesh and Deccan, due to lower cost of living and Muslim dominance. In recent times,The power loom industry is going through difficult phase due to various factors like fluctuating government policies, frequent electricity outage, lack of political will, middleman at every stage and reluctance to migrate to advanced machines. Though it is still a major source of employment, most of workers struggle to make a living. As a result, the city has observed a change in migration pattern wherein the worker prefer to move to Metros compared to Malegaon for better and stable job opportunities. Ludhiana: Relevance of hosiery industry in Ludhiana could be gauged from the fact 85 to 90 per cent demand of woollen market in India is supplied by Ludhiana. Total size of Ludhiana's hosiery industry is about Rs 14,000 crore, with majority of units in SME sector and supply ranging from sweaters to jackets, that caters to the demand of domestic as well as exports market.
- Ichalkaranji: Before 1980 Ichalkaranji was known for cotton poplin, dhoti, and cotton saris. In mid-1980s, weavers of the city started producing denim, canvas, chiffon, and fabric for school uniforms (khaki drill). Fabrics such as seersucker, Oxford, herringbone, ripstop, chambray, tweed, and twill made in or around the Ichalkaranji city are used by many domestic and international fashion brands such as Raymond’s of India, Armani, Banana Republic, Hugo Boss, and Paul Smith.[8] The presence of a qualified workforce and the level of technical know-how and easy accessibility to finest weavers of Ichalkaranji for outsoaring and over all good social ambiance were among the factors that influenced Italian textile major Tessitura Monti,[9] Turkish textile maker ‘Soktas’, Bombay Rayon Fashions Ltd (BRFL),[10] Raymond Zambaiti Ltd (A joint venture of Raymond’s Ltd and internationally renowned Cotonificio Honegger S.P.A., part of Gruppo Zambaiti),[11] German Menswear brands Liebe, Boys R Bad and Looty[12] etc.. while planning investment near Ichalkaranji city. Malegaon: Malegaon is major hub for cloth weaving using early twentieth century power looms. The era of power looms in Malegaon emerged after 1935. Malegaon was a traditional handloom-weaving center in Maharashtra. Most of the preparatory work before weaving like starching the yarn, transferring it over the tubes, preparing tanabana was done by the women. Even after power looms were introduced, women continued to help their menfolk in the weaving procedure. With the introduction of power looms, the cloth industry in Malegaon flourished due to increased productivity. Many people bought power looms and very few were left with handlooms.It has an estimated 3 lakh power looms producing about 1 crore (10 million) meters of cloth every day. It attracts workers from various part of India, majority of migrants from U.P., Khandesh and Deccan, due to lower cost of living and Muslim dominance. In recent times,The power loom industry is going through difficult phase due to various factors like fluctuating government policies, frequent electricity outage, lack of political will, middleman at every stage and reluctance to migrate to advanced machines. Though it is still a major source of employment, most of workers struggle to make a living. As a result, the city has observed a change in migration pattern wherein the worker prefer to move to Metros compared to Malegaon for better and stable job opportunities. Ludhiana: Relevance of hosiery industry in Ludhiana could be gauged from the fact 85 to 90 per cent demand of woollen market in India is supplied by Ludhiana. Total size of Ludhiana's hosiery industry is about Rs 14,000 crore, with majority of units in SME sector and supply ranging from sweaters to jackets, that caters to the demand of domestic as well as exports market.
- Varansi: Handloom industry/cottage industry Manufacturing industry is not well developed & is dominated by small-scale industries and household production. Weaving is typically done within the household Production of silk often uses bonded child labour, though perhaps not at a higher rate than elsewhere in India. Weaving is typically done within the household, and most weavers are Momin Ansari Muslims. Varanasi is known throughout India for its production of very fine silk and Banarasi saris, brocades with gold and silver thread work, which are often used for weddings and special occasions. Over the years, the Banarasi silk handloom industry has been incurring huge losses because of competition from mechanised units producing the Baranasi silk saris at a faster rate and at cheaper cost, another source of competition has been saris made of cheaper synthetic alternatives to silk In 2009, after two years of wait, weaver associations in Uttar Pradesh, secured Geographical Indication (GI) rights for the ‘Banaras Brocades and Sarees’. GI is an intellectual property right, which identifies a good as originating in a certain region where a given quality, reputation or other characteristic of the product is essentially attributable to its geographical origin.
- Weavers weave around 3 crore metre of fabric per day and supply the unfinished fabric Textile industry in Surat has value-chain from spinning, weaving and processing to garmenting and exports. Weavers weave around 3 crore metre of fabric per day and supply the unfinished fabric to the textile traders who further send it for finishing at the textile processing mills. Today, with more than 75 % of India’s man-made fabrics made in Surat & one of Asia’s biggest textile markets consisting of more than 70,000 traders. The textile industry employs around 1.5 lakh people and its annual turnover is estimated at about Rs 50,000 crore. Out of total 10 lakh workers in textile industry, around 7 lakh are employed with powerloom sector & 95% of them are migrant workers. Powerloom sector has an installed capacity of around 7 lakh machines in Surat.
- Dupont joined hands with Reliance Industries and Vipul Sarees for use of Sorona® (renewable fibre product) to make an ‘environment-friendly’ version of ethnic wear for women. Exclusive saree collection was launched at a fashion show in Delhi in Dec 2014. Benefit: Ability to market new product with well trusted brand - DuPont™ Sorona® It enhances attributes of other fibers when blended together to give luxurious softness & surface characteristics that resemble natural fibres like silk. Dupont has been a pioneer in the fabric innovation for over a hundred years and has developed products such as rayon, nylon and lycra. Under their partnership, while Reliance will produce yarns based out of Sorona fibres Vipul will be responsible for creating the sarees. Collection made exclusively with Sorona® fibre, highlights high quality, soft and colorful sarees in Chiffon, Georgette, Satin and Crepe categories. using a yarn of Sorona® fibre, which is developed from renewable plant based sources instead of traditional synthetic fibres which are sourced from fossil fuels. Exclusive saree collection was launched at a fashion show in Delhi with Huma Qureshi modelling them in Dec 2014. Saree collection is made: using a yarn of Sorona® fibre, which is developed from renewable plant based sources This green fibre is then spun into a high-fashion collection They are light weight, luxuriously soft, flattering to figure and are designed keeping style & comfort of wearer in mind. This green fibre is then spun into a high-fashion collection that is inspired by the four seasons of spring, summer, monsoon and winter and made in chiffon, crepe and satin material. A leading biopolymer, Sorona contains 37 % annually renewable plant-based ingredients, even better is its environmental footprint, producing Sorona uses 30 % less energy and releases 63 % less greenhouse gas emissions than nylon 6. This versatile new bio-polymer is now finding new applications every day. It has been already commercialized in shirting, suiting, denim, jacket, hosiery and swimwear.
- Fashion show marks 6 decades of Surat's textile industry association Held a fashion show to display garments made exclusively out of fabrics manufactured in Surat which included an array of Bamberg, viscose, polyester and nylon filament yarn. SASCMA has had long standing associations with MANTRA, STER and Federation of Art Silk Weaving Industries (FIASWI). Surat's art silk association is the sole distributor of Bamberg yarn to Ashhi Kashai in Japan SASCMA was established in 1955 with objectives to represent cause of industry before central and state governments to jointly carry out the purchases of raw materials for needy members, to educate members about emerging trends in technology in machinery and raw materials and to promote the industry in general.
- Though city’s MMF industry contributes to nation's 40% of synthetic fabric demand, export of fabric is less at Rs 1,100 crore per annum. Fabrics sourced from around the world will be displayed along with their technical specifications, so that the weavers could make similar kind of fabrics which would help in boosting the overall fabric export from the India. To introduce new markets and new products for Textile Industry of South Gujarat, GFRRC was setup. which will have distinguished and comprehensive collection of fabrics from around the world. Fabrics sourced from around the world are displayed along with their technical specifications, so that the weavers could make similar kind of fabrics which would help in boosting the overall fabric export from the India. "The work on setting up the international fabric museum has already begun. A team of experts from the industry has been formed to source the fabrics used by the people around the world. These fabrics would then be displayed in the museum in order to provide vital information to the weavers and traders on the fabrics in demand," said Kamlesh Yagnik, president, SGCCI. "We will display the fabrics sourced from around the world along with their technical specifications, so that the weavers could make similar kind of fabrics. This would help in boosting the overall fabric export from the city," added Yagnik.
- Today India lacks in technology. For example, in weaving, India has only 2 % shuttle-less looms as against the world average of 16 %. Our competitors China, Pakistan and Indonesia have 15 %, 9 % and 9 % respectively of shuttle-less looms. Surat is known for production of synthetic sarees, dress materials, and home textiles, which have demand in southern Indian markets. Speaking at the foundation stone-laying ceremony of the 2,000-acres Diamond Research and Mercantile (Dream) city near Surat earlier this week, Gujarat chief minister Anandiben Patel said textiles is another important industry in Surat after diamonds and the government is planning to set up a textiles university in the city. Patel asked textile industry players to come forward with a proposal for setting up the university and added that the state government would give them full assistance. The university is likely to come up on 100 acres of land and will act as catalyst for growth of the textile industry in the city. Notably, in July 2014, Union Finance Minister Arun Jaitley had announced a mega textile cluster in Surat besides others in Bareily, Lucknow, Kutch, Bhagalpur, Mysore and one in Tamil Nadu with an budgetary allocation of Rs. 200 crore.
- MMF industry is decentralized & weavers and traders lack in knowledge about fabrics in fashion around the world.