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31
model/ DIANA MoLDoVAN
a.d/ JEAN BAPtIstE PAUCHARD
stylist/ MELANIE BRAULt
make-up & hair/ sANDRINE
gARCIA @ AtELIER 68
DIANA and AgoRIA
by VINCENt tHIBAULt
44. 7 Questions...
Prosper keating: So, for the record,
what’s your name?
Agoria: Agoria.
Pk: Ok. So...
A: But, you can call me Sebastian.
Pk: Sebastian. Yes, but you can call me
Sebastian too. Sebastian, do I owe you
eternal respect?
A: Is that one of the questions?
Pk: No. No, it’s not one of my questions.
A: Well, eternal respect, that’s a bit
worrying, no? Eternal...
Pk: Okay, okay. The seven questions. So,
let’s begin. You have only seven seconds
to answer...
A: Don’t look at me like that, with such
evil eyes...
Pk: Growing up, what did you want to be?
A: Growing up, what did I want to be? I
think I’m exactly what I wanted to do. The
and...
Pk: Okay.
A: And afterwards...
Pk: That’s enough. Are you romantic?
A: Totally.
Pk: What is your favourite book of the
moment?
A: Um... ‘The Idiot’.
moment?
A: ‘The New World’.
Pk: What kind of music do you like?
A: That’s an impossible question for a Dj.
Pk: What is your favourite pastime?
A: Answering questions.
Pk: What would you like to do next week?
A: Go hiking with a rucksack full of rocks
to get a perfect body so I be in 7POST.
Pk: Perfect. Thank you. I think that’s it.
Pk: Too late.
A: But I was hoping...
Pk: Basically, you want to add a post-
Ok, go on. Tell us.
A: It’s ‘Les nouveaux sauvages’. Wild
Tales. Bringing us to a new world.
Pk: That’s all?
A: Ah well, yeah. You want me to tell you
all about it? Damien...
Pk: No, but I mean, you’re reading that
on Google!
A: No, it’s the poster!
Pk: The poster? So this is your way of
showing us that you’re not illiterate?
A: A Dj who can read!
Pk: Outstanding!
62. HOLLYWOOD & fASHION CIRCLEjERk
The relationship between Fashion and Cinema
has always been slightly uneasy. Think of
two paranoid shysters trying to close a
business deal together or two egomaniacs
sharing a small mirror. Or two married men
trying to show that they fancy one another.
For most brands, dressing and accessorising
movie stars is big business and many movie
producers view product placement as an
essential source of funding. in a sense,
the wheel has turned full circle since
1930, when Hollywood mogul Samuel Goldwyn
offered Coco Chanel a million dollars to
spend a short season in Hollywood creating
costumes for his leading ladies, who
included Joan Blondell and Gloria Swanson.
The collaboration was doomed from the start,
of course, because Mademoiselle Chanel saw
herself as rather a cut or three above
the tarty chic valued by studios in the
business of selling movies to the masses at
the time. Many American cinema-goers of the
era lapped up the sweaty realism of some
of those 1930s movies starring prototypical
playing dangerous, streetwise types, or
hard-bitten anti-heroines played by tough
girls like Jean Harlow and Barbara Stanwyck.
in the 1930s, millions of litres of peroxide
bleach were sold to Jean Harlow fans but,
luckily for them, the products concocted by
the chemists were clearly less toxic than the
Clorox-Ammonia cocktail massaged into Harlow’s
roots by her hairdresser, a toxic gloop now
believed to have contributed to the renal
failure that killed her. Fortunately, other
cinematic platinum goddesses like Marilyn
Diana Dors seem to have used the less lethal
commercial concoctions sold to their fans.
Most self-respecting movie buffs and
fashionistascancitesuccessfulcollaborations
between Tinseltown and planet Fashion. Miuccia
prada’s historically accurate styling of
many of the costumes in Baz Luhrmann’s 2013
version of ‘The Great Gatsby’ is a recent
case in point. And who could forget Jean-
paul Gaultier’s contribution to Besson’s
‘The Fifth Element’ in 1997, for which the
designer conceived no less than 954 costumes?
trends. From the earliest days, movie fans
have emulated their favourite stars. The
garment industry responded by offering copies
of Clara Bow’s sailor pants in the 1920s, the
in ‘The Jungle princess’ in 1936 or Judy
Garland’s gingham dress from ‘The Wizard
of Oz’ in 1939. paco Rabanne’s futuristic
creations inspired 1960s women because of Jane
Fonda’s Barbarella. 1990s women bought a lot
attributed to Uma Thurman in ‘pulp Fiction’.
products? And there’s the rub. The ordinary
people whom planet Fashion’s promotion and
marketing people are so desperate to reach
can’t afford the real thing so they buy
knock-offs. in any case, Thurman’s shirt
was actually made by the costume department.
The previously niche Hawaiian Shirt was
popularised by Frank Sinatra and Montgomery
Clift in ‘From Here To Eternity’ in 1953.
However, the stylists were not promoting
garment brands. They were simply dressing the
male stars to look like the average off-duty
American sailor or marine in pearl Harbor in
1941. Leading man Burt Lancaster did not wear
a Hawaiian shirt in the movie and he got to
roll in the surf with the quietly sulphurous
Deborah Kerr whereas Sinatra was beaten to
death and Clift was stabbed and then shot.
None of the fashion designers who reheat
Ellery Chun’s 1930s kimono-inspired Waikiki
original every few seasons seems inclined
to reference Ratso Rizzo from ‘Midnight
Cowboy’ in one of the most sensitively
handled closet homosexual love scenes
ever to make it into a cinema. Even Elvis
in ‘Blue Hawaii’ fails to get a nod.
perhaps they understand the double-edged
cinema and TV over the viewing public. When
Clark Gable had appeared open-shirted and
bare-chested in ‘it Happened One Night’ in
1934, sales of men’s undervests fell by a
catastrophic seventy percent across the United
States as Ordinary Joes everywhere chucked
away their vests and hung about in soda bars
waiting for Claudette Colbert to drop by. The
point being that Gable was showing men what
not to wear rather than promoting garments
and accessories through the kind of product
placement that became a major component of
By then, gritty realism was increasingly
relegated to the B ratings as mainstream
Hollywood changed the A feature menu to
Technicolor Dreams with no hard edges or, at
any rate, no obvious hard edges to worry a
misery and just wanted to feel good, as they did
back in Depression-era America when Hollywood
offered movies where everything comes good
in the end, despite the lurking shadows.
Although it appeared in 1961, ‘Breakfast at
Tiffany’s’ was essentially a 1950s feel-
to this day without anyone realising that
Holly Golightly is a kid from hunger and
a background of childhood sexual abuse
turning tricks to pay the rent. But then,
this was a time when audiences often failed
to notice the obvious, as with faux-
Rock’n’Roll musicals like ‘Jailhouse Rock’,
whose title song was an underground ode
to hardcore jailhouse homosexual slang.
Hubert de Givenchy’s collaboration with
Audrey Hepburn worked out very well for
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63
by PRosPER kEAtINg
both of them, even if the Count initially
believed he was getting Katherine Hepburn.
Audrey Hepburn’s name became an eternal
byword for chic and the Givenchy label
Did the Count de Givenchy read the script?
probably not, but would a major paris fashion
house agree to dress such a heroine today? Can
you imagine the pitch? “The movie is about
this skinny Hillbilly kid who runs away from
an underage marriage to New York, where she
gets a British accent and a classy wardrobe
by blowing Johns. She throws her cat out in
the rain to die but redeems herself by coming
back for the cat and marrying this guy with
great teeth and Aryan looks, who turns out
to be gay in the sequel. it’s a winner and
it’ll be fucking great for your brand!”.
parisian shoemaker Roger Vivier counted
screen goddess Ava Gardner amongst his
clients but it was newcomer Catherine Deneuve
who set his classic pumps on the road to
iconic status, wearing them as a badge of
her character’s bourgeois status in Luis
Buñuel’s 1967 movie ‘Belle du Jour’. Being the
1960s, the sex-for-money sub-plot was more
overt than that of ‘Breakfast at Tiffany’s’.
Bizarrely, the middleclass feminists of the
time adopted it as a totem of their sexual
liberation and modernism but Buñuel’s script
was not at all about female emancipation.
The bourgeois doctor’s wife driven to seek some
sort of emotional release through surrendering
to the sexual degradation of prostitution,
her love for her husband notwithstanding, is
a prisoner of the sexual abuse she suffered
as a child. Had anyone at Vivier realised
this at the time, Catherine Deneuve might
have been asked to wear someone else’s shoes.
But in the end, ‘Belle du Jour’ set the Belle
on the road to iconic status because many
heroine of their delusional imaginations.
Some critics say that Kevin Costner’s ‘The
Untouchables’ could have been a great period
movie had the producers taken a lead from
Robert De Niro, whose compelling cameo
portrayal of Al Capone involved having
his costumes made by the same tailors who
once dressed the Chicago crime boss. But
they took the money instead and De Niro’s
realism was undermined by the spectacle of
Eliot Ness’s gangbusters mincing about in
jarringly non-period italian suits. Sean
Connery, once the quintessence of masculine
cool, tried to act tough in a pastel cardigan
more suited to perry Como or Barry Manilow
and many fans were relieved when Machine Gun
McGurn, reborn as a 1980s Milan model scout,
put the former 007 out of his emasculated
For many, italian labels like Armani
will always evoke 1980s movies like ‘The
Untouchables’ and ‘American Gigolo’, or
television shows like ‘Miami Vice’, peopled
by mullet-cropped lotharios with their
jacket sleeves pushed up towards their
elbows and v-line broads with equally nasty
hair and bottle tans. However, the fact that
so many people still think of Armani when
Richard Gere or Don Johnson pop up in the
news or gossip columns validates Mr Armani’s
decision to style this productions. Like it
or not, ‘Miami Vice’ is as iconic as ‘Hawaii
5-0’ and as Oscar Wilde nearly said, it is
better to be remembered than not remembered.
64. INTEGRATED BUSTIER jACkET AND SHORTS, jEAN PAUL GAULTIER / SUNGLASSES, MYkITA fRANz AT MARC LE BIHAN / STILETTOS, CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN.
65. models/AMANDAgULLICksoNand
JEssICA RoFFEY @next models
a.d/ JEAN BAPtIstE PAUCHARD
make-up/AgostINALoMBARDo
hairdesign/JoHNNYsAPPoNg
producer/ HANs UDER
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VINCENt tHIBAULt
