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Crafting Articulations:
The Mode of Production of Online Crafts
Chris McConnell
Department of Radio-TV-Film, UT Austin
NCA, November 16, 2010
Crafting Articulations
• Crafts sales on the Internet
– Crafts, a working definition
– online retail
• Articulation
• Informationalization
• Cultural Capital
Microcosm - Zines
Crafts: a working definition
• Not necessarily handmade, contemporary
crafts are produced on a limited basis by
a small number of self-employed
producers.
– Hand-knit and sewn items
– Printed items such as t-shirts and ‘zines
– Bricolage such as belts and handbags made
from found items.
The limited scale of production and aura of
personality defines “craft” for the purpose of
this paper.
The Dark Ages
• Crafts are certainly not a new form of
cultural production
• Sources of crafts
– Made for self/friends/family
– Craft fair or flea market
– Specialty retail such as record store,
boutique, or bookstore
– Mail Order
• Purchasing crafts often depended on time
spent searching face-to-face… and luck
DIY
• While crafts have been associated with
the traditional or conventional, an
oppositional stream of crafting emerged
in the 1980s and 90s.
• Reaction to industrialization and mass
production
• Reaction to mass media and corporate
culture (Duncombe, 2000; Spencer, 2005)
Examples of Craft Online
• Microcosm Publishing
– “a not-for-profit*, collectively-run publisher and
distributor of zines and related work”
– Established in 1996
• BuyOlympia.com
– ‘a way to help our friends sell their awesome
handmade items online’
– Established in 1999 in Olympia, now in Portland
• Etsy.com
– “Your place to buy and sell all things handmade,
vintage and supplies” est. 2005
BuyOlympia.com
Microcosm - Stickers
Microcosm - Buttons
BuyOlympia – Bicycle Related
Etsy
Articulation
• Hall (1978) uses the concept of
articulation to explain how local cultures
and modes of production can exist within
global capital
• A punk/indie/DIY mode of production can
resist global capital at the micro level,
yet feed into the broader global capitalist
economy.
Online Craft Sales and
Articulation
• These sites such as Microcosm and
BuyOlympia nurture small-scale
production
• Yet their sales and distribution are firmly
situated within global systems of
information and commerce
– Internet
– Credit card transactions
– Shipping (US Mail, FedEx, UPS)
Informationalization
• Castells (2000) describes the global trend
of documenting and measuring commerce
and labor as “informationalization.”
• Informationalization rationalizes
transactions for capital
• Makes transactions more convenient or
efficent
• Improves discovery of suppliers
Etsy and Informationalization
• Does not sell items itself
• Provides a marketplace for buyers and
sellers
• Offers a variety of discovery tools
• Processes credit-card transactions
• Charges sellers 20¢ listing fee
• Takes 3.5% cut of each sale
Etsy-Discovery
Etsy – Discovery by Locality
Etsy – Color Discovery
Etsy – Specialty Goods
Etsy – Specialty Goods
• Customers can find
good they might
not be able to find
in their local
markets
• Offensive to local
sensibilities?
• Possibly illegal?
Cultural Captial
• For customers, Etsy takes a lot of the
work out of finding handmade goods
• Allows these persons have the artifacts of
a DIY lifestyle without the effort of
visiting craft fairs, boutiques, etc.
• Presents the image of a hip,
countercultural lifestyle without
necessarily living it - hipsterism
A Return to Cottage Industry?
• 95% of Etsy sellers are women (average
age, 33), mostly stay-at-home moms and
college students looking to supplement
their income rather than make a full-time
living. (Miller, 2007)
• $10 million in sales in first two years.
• Most items sell for $15-$20
• Sellers work by the piece, for dubious
margins
Conclusion
• Online craft retailers articulate between
craft/DIY modes of production and the
norms of contemporary global capital
• Provide customers the opportunity to
participate in subcultures unavailable in
their local communities
• Yet…
– Entry into a DIY lifestyle becomes all to easy for
poseurs
– Potentially exploits women, particularly stay-at-
home moms and others alienated by labor
market.

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Crafting Articulations

  • 1. Crafting Articulations: The Mode of Production of Online Crafts Chris McConnell Department of Radio-TV-Film, UT Austin NCA, November 16, 2010
  • 2. Crafting Articulations • Crafts sales on the Internet – Crafts, a working definition – online retail • Articulation • Informationalization • Cultural Capital
  • 4. Crafts: a working definition • Not necessarily handmade, contemporary crafts are produced on a limited basis by a small number of self-employed producers. – Hand-knit and sewn items – Printed items such as t-shirts and ‘zines – Bricolage such as belts and handbags made from found items. The limited scale of production and aura of personality defines “craft” for the purpose of this paper.
  • 5. The Dark Ages • Crafts are certainly not a new form of cultural production • Sources of crafts – Made for self/friends/family – Craft fair or flea market – Specialty retail such as record store, boutique, or bookstore – Mail Order • Purchasing crafts often depended on time spent searching face-to-face… and luck
  • 6. DIY • While crafts have been associated with the traditional or conventional, an oppositional stream of crafting emerged in the 1980s and 90s. • Reaction to industrialization and mass production • Reaction to mass media and corporate culture (Duncombe, 2000; Spencer, 2005)
  • 7. Examples of Craft Online • Microcosm Publishing – “a not-for-profit*, collectively-run publisher and distributor of zines and related work” – Established in 1996 • BuyOlympia.com – ‘a way to help our friends sell their awesome handmade items online’ – Established in 1999 in Olympia, now in Portland • Etsy.com – “Your place to buy and sell all things handmade, vintage and supplies” est. 2005
  • 12. Etsy
  • 13. Articulation • Hall (1978) uses the concept of articulation to explain how local cultures and modes of production can exist within global capital • A punk/indie/DIY mode of production can resist global capital at the micro level, yet feed into the broader global capitalist economy.
  • 14. Online Craft Sales and Articulation • These sites such as Microcosm and BuyOlympia nurture small-scale production • Yet their sales and distribution are firmly situated within global systems of information and commerce – Internet – Credit card transactions – Shipping (US Mail, FedEx, UPS)
  • 15. Informationalization • Castells (2000) describes the global trend of documenting and measuring commerce and labor as “informationalization.” • Informationalization rationalizes transactions for capital • Makes transactions more convenient or efficent • Improves discovery of suppliers
  • 16. Etsy and Informationalization • Does not sell items itself • Provides a marketplace for buyers and sellers • Offers a variety of discovery tools • Processes credit-card transactions • Charges sellers 20¢ listing fee • Takes 3.5% cut of each sale
  • 18. Etsy – Discovery by Locality
  • 19. Etsy – Color Discovery
  • 21. Etsy – Specialty Goods • Customers can find good they might not be able to find in their local markets • Offensive to local sensibilities? • Possibly illegal?
  • 22. Cultural Captial • For customers, Etsy takes a lot of the work out of finding handmade goods • Allows these persons have the artifacts of a DIY lifestyle without the effort of visiting craft fairs, boutiques, etc. • Presents the image of a hip, countercultural lifestyle without necessarily living it - hipsterism
  • 23. A Return to Cottage Industry? • 95% of Etsy sellers are women (average age, 33), mostly stay-at-home moms and college students looking to supplement their income rather than make a full-time living. (Miller, 2007) • $10 million in sales in first two years. • Most items sell for $15-$20 • Sellers work by the piece, for dubious margins
  • 24. Conclusion • Online craft retailers articulate between craft/DIY modes of production and the norms of contemporary global capital • Provide customers the opportunity to participate in subcultures unavailable in their local communities • Yet… – Entry into a DIY lifestyle becomes all to easy for poseurs – Potentially exploits women, particularly stay-at- home moms and others alienated by labor market.

Editor's Notes

  1. Buy Olympia was established to promote artists and crafters in Olympia, Washington. It began as an online retailer