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Fashion
     &
     Social Performance in
     The Mill on the Floss


                                                         Megan K. Mize




An Elegant And Precise Examination Of The Role Of Fashion Within A Polite Society, As Explored By G. Eliot
Etiquette Texts

✤   Emerging middle class sought models
    of “appropriate” behavior

✤   1850s on: etiquette books claimed to
    codify rules of a polite society

✤   Based upon the norms of the
    supplanted 18th century aristocratic
    society

✤   “There were particular ways of doing
    everything in the [Dodson]
    family...” (Eliot 86).
The lady's guide to perfect gentility, in manners, dress, and conversation ... also a useful instructor in letter writing,
toilet preparations, fancy needlework, millinery, dressmaking, care of wardrobe, the hair, teeth, hands, lips, complexion,
                                                             etc.

                                                  Emily Thornwell

                                                          1856


                                                                 ✤   Chapter I: Agreeableness and Beauty of Person


                                                                 ✤   Chapter II: Gentility and Refinement of Manners in
                                                                     all the Relations of Home and Society


                                                                 ✤   Chapter III: How to Combine Elegance, Style, and
                                                                     Economy


                                                                 ✤   Chapter IV: The Art of Conversing with Fluency and
                                                                     Propriety


                                                                 ✤   Chapter V: The Whole Art of Correct and Elegant
                                                                     Letter-Writing


                                                                 ✤   Chapter VI: Elegant Fancy Needle-work, Knitting,
                                                                     Netting, Crochet, Embroidery


                                                                 ✤   Chapter VII: The Art of Millinery and Dress-Making
The Etiquette of Fashion
Women’s fashion constantly evolved, while adhering to strict rules of propriety
Clothing In
          Mill
✤   1820’s- 30’s

✤   Context Determines Costume




✤   Aunts Glegg and Pullet

✤   Consciousness of Class and
    Taste as Represented through
    Appearance
Other Costuming Elements

                ✤   Fair Coloring: Skin and Hair




                ✤   Hair Styles: Curling




                ✤   Hair Pieces: “Fronts”
Costuming Elements Cont.

                     Hats
Social Performance
Text Explores Tensions Between Performance and Reality through Costuming
Nature vs Construct
✤   Castiglione: Effortless Grace

✤   19th Century Evolution




✤   “It is a pathetic sight...” (Eliot
    98-99)
Fashion & Reflexivity
        ✤   Individual Appearance Reflects
            on Group Status

        ✤   Gender Roles

        ✤   Contemplation of Female
            Figure
Conformity & Agency
Maggie cuts her hair in response to social pressures

This Moment Demonstrates The Ability To Act, While Highlighting The Extreme Difficulty Of Such Subversion
Further Discussion




As such texts also existed for men, to what extent might a man control the
construction of his identity via costuming? Were men equally constricted by
contemporary fashions? How does Mill address the relation between men,
appearance, and social status?
Bibliography

Eliot, George. The Mill on the Floss. Ed. Oliver Lovesey. Ontario,
    Broadview Press, 2007. Print.


Thornwell, Emily. The lady's guide to perfect gentility, in manners, dress, and
   conversation ... also a useful instructor in letter writing, toilet preparations,
   fancy needlework, millinery, dressmaking, care of wardrobe, the hair, teeth,
   hands, lips, complexion, etc. New York, Derby & Jackson. 1856. Print.

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Etiquette

  • 1. Fashion & Social Performance in The Mill on the Floss Megan K. Mize An Elegant And Precise Examination Of The Role Of Fashion Within A Polite Society, As Explored By G. Eliot
  • 2. Etiquette Texts ✤ Emerging middle class sought models of “appropriate” behavior ✤ 1850s on: etiquette books claimed to codify rules of a polite society ✤ Based upon the norms of the supplanted 18th century aristocratic society ✤ “There were particular ways of doing everything in the [Dodson] family...” (Eliot 86).
  • 3. The lady's guide to perfect gentility, in manners, dress, and conversation ... also a useful instructor in letter writing, toilet preparations, fancy needlework, millinery, dressmaking, care of wardrobe, the hair, teeth, hands, lips, complexion, etc. Emily Thornwell 1856 ✤ Chapter I: Agreeableness and Beauty of Person ✤ Chapter II: Gentility and Refinement of Manners in all the Relations of Home and Society ✤ Chapter III: How to Combine Elegance, Style, and Economy ✤ Chapter IV: The Art of Conversing with Fluency and Propriety ✤ Chapter V: The Whole Art of Correct and Elegant Letter-Writing ✤ Chapter VI: Elegant Fancy Needle-work, Knitting, Netting, Crochet, Embroidery ✤ Chapter VII: The Art of Millinery and Dress-Making
  • 4. The Etiquette of Fashion Women’s fashion constantly evolved, while adhering to strict rules of propriety
  • 5. Clothing In Mill ✤ 1820’s- 30’s ✤ Context Determines Costume ✤ Aunts Glegg and Pullet ✤ Consciousness of Class and Taste as Represented through Appearance
  • 6. Other Costuming Elements ✤ Fair Coloring: Skin and Hair ✤ Hair Styles: Curling ✤ Hair Pieces: “Fronts”
  • 8. Social Performance Text Explores Tensions Between Performance and Reality through Costuming
  • 9. Nature vs Construct ✤ Castiglione: Effortless Grace ✤ 19th Century Evolution ✤ “It is a pathetic sight...” (Eliot 98-99)
  • 10. Fashion & Reflexivity ✤ Individual Appearance Reflects on Group Status ✤ Gender Roles ✤ Contemplation of Female Figure
  • 11. Conformity & Agency Maggie cuts her hair in response to social pressures This Moment Demonstrates The Ability To Act, While Highlighting The Extreme Difficulty Of Such Subversion
  • 12. Further Discussion As such texts also existed for men, to what extent might a man control the construction of his identity via costuming? Were men equally constricted by contemporary fashions? How does Mill address the relation between men, appearance, and social status?
  • 13. Bibliography Eliot, George. The Mill on the Floss. Ed. Oliver Lovesey. Ontario, Broadview Press, 2007. Print. Thornwell, Emily. The lady's guide to perfect gentility, in manners, dress, and conversation ... also a useful instructor in letter writing, toilet preparations, fancy needlework, millinery, dressmaking, care of wardrobe, the hair, teeth, hands, lips, complexion, etc. New York, Derby & Jackson. 1856. Print.

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