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Session IV
TODAY’S DISCOVERIES:
 Italian Wine Laws – DOC
 Italian wine regions
 Key grapes and styles
 Key terms
 History of wine in Spain
 Spanish wine laws
 Spanish wine laws
 Spanish wine regions
 Sherry
 Some of the grape varieties used today have
been in use for thousands of years
 Italy is #1 or #2 in wine production in the
world, depending on the year; it switches
places every few years with France
 Italy is a giant peninsula; it is the modifying
influence of the Mediterranean and its river
systems that make Italy such a large producer
 Italy has 20 wine regions, corresponding
to its political regions
 Average vineyard size is 2 acres
 Over 900,000 registered vineyards
 Over 1,000 documented grape
varieties
Most wine is made in cooperatives
 Has two quality levels;
broken into two sub-levels
They are more regulated
towards the top; the DOC
and DOCG laws govern
the area of
production, grape
varieties, maximum yield
per hectare, degree of
alcohol, vineyard
practices, wine-making
practices and aging
requirements
Vino da Tavola (VDT)
 Table wines or wines without any specific
geographic origin
 VDT’s are not necessarily wines of lesser quality
 They may just be wines that do not follow
current Italian wine law (i.e. Super Tuscans)
 No serious controls on grapes or what region
they are from
Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT)
 Table wines with a typical geographical indication
 About 130 IGT’s; labeled on the seal around neck
IGT is spelled out on the label
 Lesser restrictions on soil, area of
production, grapes, yield, techniques, aging or
alcohol content
 Some controls on area within the region and
the grapes being used
 Leaves room for experimentation and
innovation, some very good wines are made in this
Denominazione di Origine Controllata
(DOC)
 Translated as controlled denomination of origin
 Regionally stylistic, with regional grapes
 About 350 DOC’s in Italy, labeled on the seal
around the neck (not a pink seal like the DOCG)
 DOC is spelled out on the label
 Lesser restrictions on soil, area of
production, grapes, yield, techniques, aging or
alcohol content
Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita
(DOCG)
 Translated as controlled and guaranteed
denomination of origin
 Usually denotes the highest quality wines for Italy
 All 41 DOCG’s have a pink (red) or green (white)
seal around neck of bottle with DOCG written on it
 DOCG is spelled out on the label
 Tested and analyzed by the government
 Home of two of Italy’s top red wines:
 Barolo and Barbaresco; very full-
bodied, tannic and best when aged several
years
 Equivalent to the best Bordeaux reds
 Made from the Nebbiolo grape in a small
cluster of villages (including their namesakes)
 Located in Southeastern Piemonte
 Slight differences in microclimates make for
slightly different wines
 Barolo must be aged a total of three years
between barrel and bottle, five years for Riserva
 Barbaresco must be aged a total of two years
between barrel and bottle; four for Riserva
 Other Wines of note:
 Dry: Gatinnara and Gavi di Gavi
 Sweet Sparkling: Brachetto D’Aqui & Asti
Grape Varietals of note:
 Red: Nebbiolo, Barbera & Dolcetto
 White: Moscato, Cortese & Arneis
Veneto
 One of Italy’s largest wine producers
 Many of its wines are thin and of low-quality, but the
ones that are good can be very good!
 Raisinated Corvina grapes produce Amarone
 Home of Prosecco, one of Italy’s most popular
Spumantes (sparkling wines); used for the Bellini
 Produces Italy’s most widely exported wines:
 White: Soave and Red: Valpolicella
 Both are made in varying quality levels
Friuli-Venezia-Giulia (a.k.a. Friuli)
 Was part of the Austria until 1866 and still
retains its cultural influences
 About half of Friuli’s production is red wine, but it
is renown for its whites, especially its Pinot Grigios
 White grapes: Pinot Grigio, Pinot
Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and
Friuli, which was formerly known as Tokay
 Red grapes: Merlot, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Schioppettino
Trentino - Alto-Adige
 Two provinces:
 Trentino is Italian-speaking
 Alto-Adige is German-speaking
 Was part of Austria until after WW1
 Wines often labeled in both German and Italian
 Red grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet
Franc, Langrein, Merlot and other natives
 White grapes: Chardonnay, Müller-
Thurgau, Nosiola, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot
Grigio
 Home of three of Italy's most important red wines:
Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino, and Vino Nobile di
Montepulciano
 Most important grape in this region is Sangiovese
 Super Tuscans emerged from a revolution in wine
making methods and resistance to required grapes
 In the 1970’s and 80’s, there was a backlash
against the declining popularity of traditional Chianti
 Some winemakers began making wines of superb
quality from Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot
Tuscany
 White Grapes: Chardonnay, Sauvignon
Blanc, Vernaccia, Malvasia and Trebbiano, which is
known as Ugni Blanc in France and Palomino in Spain
Tuscany Due
 Home of a highly-
prized dessert wine
called Vin Santo, made
from dried Nosiola
grapes using the same
Passito method as
Veneto’s Amarone di
Valpolicella
 The Nosiola grapes are laid out on straw mats
and kept in warm, well-ventilated rooms that allow
the moisture in the grape to evaporate
 The longer the grapes are allowed to dry and
desiccate, the higher the resulting residual sugar
levels in the wine; they may be dried up to 6 months
 Producers may use a starter culture known as a
madre that includes a small amount of finished Vin
Santo from previous years production
 It is believed that this older wine can help jump-
start fermentation and add complexity to the wine
Vin Santo
 Traditionally, the aging barrels were made of
chestnut instead of oak, which contributed high
amounts of wood tannins and was very
porous, promoting excessive evaporation in the
barrel
 As a result of this same traditional aging
method, a large ullage (air space) emerges in the
barrel and oxidation takes place, giving the wine
its characteristic amber color as well as flavors
and traits that may be characterized as faults
 The wine is aged for 3 to 5 years in the barrel
Vin Santo Due
 Towards the end of the 20th century, more
produces began switching to oak barrels while
maintaining the tradition of not topping-up the
barrels and filling in the ullage space
 This “Angel's Share” still produces some level of
oxidation, though not as severe as the style that
was traditionally made
 Modern winemaking techniques also call for
more temperature control; keeping the wine in
rooms with a consistent temperature promotes
fresher flavors in the wine and fewer faults
Vin Santo Tre
Chianti
 Main Zone: Chianti Classico is its own DOCG region
 Red grapes: Sangiovese (between 75% -
100%), Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot
 White grapes: Trebbiano, Malvasia
 Other Sub-Zones:
Chianti Rufina, Colli Fiorentini, Colli Aretini, Colli
Senesi, Colline Pisane, and Chianti Montalbano
 All use the same grapes and make similar wines
of varying quality
Tuscany’s Notable Reds
Brunello di Montalcino
 Uses the Brunello clone of the Sangiovese grape
 Brunellos are very age-able wines, some have been
opened after 100 years and were allegedly still good
Vino Nobile di Montepulciano
Made in and around the town of Montepulciano
from the Prugnolo Gentile clone of Sangiovese
 The wines are of moderate quality
Not to be confused with the Montepulciano
grape, which is planted in Central/Southern Italy
Tuscany’s Notable Reds
Liguria
 Not a major wine producer; consuming mostly local grapes
 Red grapes: Ormeasco (Dolcetto), and Dolceacqua, which is
used in Rabbit Braised with Olives; a famous regional dish
 White grapes: Vermentino, Bosco, and Alborola
Emilia-Romagna
 Italy’s primary food region: Home of Parmigiano-
Reggiano, Balsamic Vinegar, and Prosciutto di Parma
 White grapes: Albana di Romagna
 Red grapes: Sangiovese
 Lambrusco: A spritzy purplish wine made from local grapes
Umbria
 Red wines of note:
 Torgiano Rossa Riserva (Sangiovese, Canaiolo & Trebbiano)
 Sangrantino di Montefalco, using the Sangrantino grape
 White grape: Orvieto; makes a crisp, slightly peachy white
Abruzzi
 Major volume wine producer, but few quality wines
 The exception being Montepulciano d’Abbruzo
 Made from the Montepulciano grape, it is one of Italy’s
best wine values with large amounts exported to the U.S.
 Not the same as Vino Nobile de Montepulciano, which is
a Tuscan wine made from Sangioveise
White wine: Trebbiano d’Abruzzo (Bombino Bianco)
Campania, Apulia, Basilicata,
& Calabria
 Italy’s southern-most regions
 Hot climate, lots of poverty, both of which lead to
high-volume production of lower quality wines
 Most of the wine is made by cooperatives
Red: Aglianico, Negroamaro, Uva di Troia & Primitivo
 There is speculation as to whether Primitivo, also thought
to be Croatia’s Plavatz Mali, is the original Zinfandel
White: Famous for Falanghina, a white varietal which
was the favorite of the Romans; of Greek origin
Sicily
 Sicily’s most notable wine is Marsala, produced in the
region surrounding the city of the same name
 Sicily is also home to some great Nero d’Avola wines
 Marsala, which first received DOC status in 1969, is a
fortified wine similar to Port, Madeira and Sherry
 Originally, Marsala wine was fortified to ensure that it
would last long ocean voyages, but now it is made that way
because of its popularity in foreign markets
 Marsala contains about 15-20% alcohol by volume
 Different Marsala wines are classified according to their
color, sweetness and the duration of their aging
The 3 levels of sweetness in Marsala:
Secco (Dry)
Semisecco (Medium-Dry)
Dolce (Sweet)
The Color Classifications:
 Oro has a golden color
 Ambra has an amber color
 The coloring comes from the mosto cotto (cooked
grape must); a sweetener added to the wine
 Rubino has a ruby color, made from red grape
varieties such as Perricone, Calabrese, Nero
d'Avola and Nerello Mascalese
The Marsala Aging Classifications
Marsala was traditionally served as an apéritif between the
first and second courses of a meal. Contemporary diners will
serve it chilled with Parmesan, Gorgonzola, Roquefort, and
other spicy cheeses; with fruits or pastries, or at room-
temperature as a dessert wine. Marsala is sometimes
discussed with another Sicilian wine, Passito di Pantelleria
(Pantelleria Island's passito-method raisinated wine).
Fine: Has minimal aging, typically less than a year
Superiore: Aged at least 2 years
Superiore Riserva: Aged at least 4 years
Vergine a.k.a. Soleras: Aged at least 5 years
Vergine a.k.a. Soleras Stravecchio/Riserva: Aged at least 10 yrs.
So, what is
the story
of the
grape
stomping?
Grape-Stomping
 Also known as pigeage, grape-stomping has been around
almost as long as wine and has certain advantages
 When in the vat treading the grapes, one can feel the clumps
and break them up, avoiding hot spots in the must, the feet
having a different motion than the mechanical crusher/de-
stemmer, which is essentially a giant auger
 The down-side, is that foot-treading is much slower and more
labor intensive.
 Cockburns is one winery (Port) who still stomp their
grapes, but most wine regions today have outlawed it for health
reasons
 Grape stomps occur country-wide at local festivals and winery
events, but the juice isn't used to make wine; it's just for fun!
Vocabulary to Understand Italian Wines
Tenementi: Estate
Vendemmia: Vintage
Riserva: Aged (usually
over 3 yrs.)
Imbottigliato: Estate-
bottled
Fiasco: Flask
Bianco: White
Rosso: Red
Nero: Very dark red
Rosato: Pink
Amaro: Bitter or very dry
Dolce: Very sweet
Cantina: Cellar or winery
Cotto: Concentrated
Vino Liquoroso: Fortified
Wines
 Grapes grown in Spain for over 5,000 years!
 More land planted with vineyards then
anywhere else in the world
 Approximately 3.5 million acres and ranks
third in wine production in the world
 Has a large number of old, low-yielding vines
planted on dry, infertile land
 Until recently, Spain was known for low-quality
wine and its fortified Sherries, but modern
techniques and equipment have set Spain on a
path to producing excellent wines
Diverse environment means Spain produces a
wide variety of wines:
Light, dry white wines from the cool Atlantic region
in the northeast
 Dry, full-bodied red wines from the north central
highlands
 Heavy, high-alcohol red wines from the eastern
plains and the Mediterranean south
 Fortified wines from the sun-baked southwest
Vino de Mesa (VdM)
 These are wines that are the equivalent of
most country's table wines and are made from
unclassified vineyards or grapes that have been
declassified through "illegal" blending
 Similar to the Italian Super Tuscans from the
late 20th century, some Spanish winemakers will
intentionally declassify their wines so that they
have greater flexibility in blending and
winemaking methods
Vinos de la Tierra (VdlT)
 This level is similar to France's Vin de Pays
system, normally corresponding to the larger
Comunidad Autonóma geographical regions and will
appear on the label with broader geographical
designations like Andalucía, Castilla La Mancha and
Levante
Vino de Calidad Producido en Región Determinada
(VCPRD)
 This level is similar to France's Vin Délimité de
Qualité Supérieure (VDQS) system and is considered
a stepping-stone towards DO status
Denominación de Origen (DO)
 This level is for the mainstream quality-
wine regions which are regulated by the
Consejo Regulador who is also responsible
for marketing the wines of that DO
 In 2005, nearly two-thirds of the total
vineyard area in Spain was within the
boundaries of a DO region
Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa)
 This designation, which is similar to Italy's
Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita
(DOCG) designation, is for regions with a track
record of consistent quality and is meant to be a
step above DO level
 Rioja was the first region afforded this
designation in 1991 and was followed by Priorat in
2003, and Ribera del Duero in 2008
But what really designates Spanish
wines is the aging!
 Spanish wines are often labeled according to the amount
of aging the wine has received. When the label says Vino
Joven (Young Wine) or Sin Crianza, the wines will have
undergone very little, if any, wood aging
 Depending on the producer, some of these wines will be
meant to be consumed very young; often within a year of
their release. Others will benefit from some bottle-aging
 For the vintage year (Vendimia or Cosecha) to appear on
the label, a minimum of 85% of the grapes must be from
that year's harvest
 The three most common aging designations on Spanish
wine labels are Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva
Crianza
Red wines are aged for 2 years with at least 6 months
in oak. Crianza whites and rosés must be aged for at
least 1 year with at least 6 months in oak.
Reserva
Red wines are aged for at least 3 years with at least 1
year in oak. Reserva whites and rosés must be aged
for at least 2 years with at least 6 months in oak.
Gran Reserva
From above-average vintages with reds aged at least 5
yrs.; 18 months in oak and a minimum of 36 months
in the bottle. Gran Reserva whites and rosés must be
aged for at least 4 yrs. with at least 6 months in oak.
Other Spanish aging terms that
you may encounter…
Vino Noble (Noble Wine)
Indicating a minimum of 18 months aging either
in barrel or in the bottle.
Vino Añejo (Aged Wine)
Indicating a minimum of 24 months aging either
in barrel or in the bottle.
Vino Viejo (Old Wine)
Indicating a minimum of 36 months aging in an
oxidative environment including exposure to
light, heat, and oxygen.
Spanish wines are often aged in oak
“Barricas”
 White Riojas can be awful stuff, but there is some
good white wine to be found in Spain. In Galícia, the
most north-western part of Spain, Rias Baixas can be
very drinkable. The wines are made from the Albariño
grape, and many are cold-fermented to maintain
freshness, the antithesis of old-style Rioja whites.
 Further to the east, and just a little south, is
Rueda. The reputation of this DO once rested on the
Sherry-like wines it produced, but it is now the home
of some more examples of good Spanish whites
made from the Verdejo grape.
Spain’s North: Galícia & Rueda
 Further across is the Ribera del Duero, a region of
vineyards situated around the Duero River, which, as
it flows west through Portugal, becomes the Douro,
home to the vineyards that give rise to Port
 Despite Rioja's reputation, it is Ribera del Duero
that is home to Spain's most expensive wine
produced by Vega Sicilia
 There are some splendid wines to be had in this
region, based on a mixture of international (Cabernet
Sauvignon) and indigenous (Tempranillo) grapes
Spain’s North: Ribera del Duero
 Further east, and back to the north, is Rioja
 The epitome of fine red Spanish wine for
generations, many Riojas can still be superb
 Styles vary; from easy-drinking Crianzas (some
Reservas), to the Reservas and Gran Reservas of
top estates which mature and improve for decades
 The grape of note is the Tempranillo, although
there are some plantings of lesser grapes, including
Garnacha Tinta (known as Grenache in France)
Spain’s North: Rioja
Rioja is divided up into three regions:
 Rioja Alta is by far the most important
 Also the name of one of the top estates
 Rioja Alavesa produces some drinkable
wines
 Rioja Baja is less-known for quality
wines
Rioja Parte Dos
Spain’s Northeast: Navarra & Priorato
 Just to the northeast is Navarra, often cited as
an up and coming rival to Rioja
 Moving across to the Mediterranean coast there
are a number of DO regions, such as Priorato and
Somontano, which for many years produced
nothing of great interest
 Quite recently, however, Priorato has been
making waves, with big, age-worthy and exciting
wines from the likes of Clos Mogador and Clos
Erasmus
Spain’s Northeast: Penedès
 Penedès is also worthy of mention, not least
because it is home to Torres, one of Spain's most
well known wine makers
 This company, led by Miguel Torres, produces a
vast array of styles using a number of indigenous
and international grapes, from sparkling Cava
through to Gran Reserva reds
 They also have related outposts in Chile
(Miguel Torres) and California (Marimar Torres)
Just one region dominates Central Spain, and
that is La Mancha
 This is a vast million acre DO, which relies on
Airén for its whites, and Cencibel (another name
for Tempranillo, just to confuse you) and Garnacha
Tinta (Grenache), among others, for its reds
 It has been predicted that La Mancha was
going to be the next big success story, following in
the footsteps of the Napa Valley and Coonawarra
Central Spain: La Mancha
 Just to the south of La Mancha is Valdepeñas, a
red wine region, much less important than Rioja or
the Ribera del Duero, which produces a few
drinkable wines
 Some of the best producers are using oak-
aging to add more appeal to their wines
 Further to the east are the DO’s of Almansa,
Valencia, Alicante, Jumilla, Yecla and Utiel-Requena
 Some good-value wines to be found here
Central Spain: Valdepeñas
 This is the home of Sherry, produced from a
small region around the town of Jerez
 Sherry is made principally from the Palomino and
Pedro Ximénez grapes, with a splash of Moscatel
 The grapes are harvested and fermented in the
normal way, but the wines are then left in contact
with air for a prolonged period of time
 Some will simply oxidize, whereas some develop
a coating of Flor, a thick layer of yeast on the
surface, which imparts a distinctive flavor
Southern Spain: Jerez
 The wines then pass through a Solera system,
a tier of barrels containing wine of differing ages,
oldest at the bottom and youngest at the top
 The wine in the lowest barrel is drawn-off and
bottled; each barrel is then topped-up with wine
from the one above
 This maintains a steady stream of wine of
similar character year after year, and explains
why sherry is almost never vintage dated
Southern Spain: Jerez
The
Sherry
Solera
System
 Fino is a very light, bone-dry and delicate Sherry that is
characterized by Flor. It often contains 15 to 18% of alcohol
 Manzanilla comes from the Sanlucar district along the
sea coast. The sea-air leads the Sherry to develop a salty
taste. These wines also have Flor and are produced using
the same process as Fino, but as weather conditions are
very different in Sanlucar, it develops into a slightly different
kind of wine, often containing 15 to 19% alcohol
 Amontillado is similar to Fino, without as much Flor
development. It is deeper in color and sweeter than Fino and
is barrel-aged longer; it often contains 16 to 22% of alcohol
Sherry Categories
 Oloroso Sherry is deeper/darker in color and has more
residual sugar. It is more fortified, and often contains 17 to
22% alcohol
 Cream Sherry is very rich and can be a good dessert-
style wine. It often contains 15.5 to 22% of alcohol
 Pedro Ximénez is a very rich dessert-style wine made
from raisins of Pedro Ximénez grapes dried in the sun. It
often contains around 18% of alcohol
 Palo Cortado is very rare, as it is an Oloroso wine that
ages in a different, natural way not achievable by human
intervention. It often contains 17 to 22% of alcohol.
Sherry Categories
And then, there is Cava!
Cava is a Spanish sparkling wine made
using the French Méthode Champenoise
 Originated in Spain’s Catalonia region at the
Codorníu Winery in the late 19th century
 The wine was originally known as Champaña
until Spanish producers officially adopted the
term "Cava" (Cellar) in 1970, in reference to
the under-ground cellars in which the wines
ferment and age in the bottle
Cava is Spain’s Sparkling Wine
 The early Cava industry was nurtured by the
phylloxera epidemic of the late 19th
century, which caused the destruction and up-
rooting of vineyards planted with red grape
varieties
 With the success of Champagne, Codorníu and
others encouraged vineyard owners to re-plant
with white grape varieties like Macabeo, Parellada
and Xarel·lo, which are still the primary grapes of
Cava today; some producers are experimenting
with the use of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir
Cava DO Regions
 For most of its existence, Cava production was not
regulated to a particular region of DO, but rather to
the grapes and method of production
 Upon acceptance into the European Union in
1986, Spain moved to designate Cava production
regions
 Today, use of the term "Cava" is restricted to
production around select municipalities in
Catalonia, Aragon, Castile and
León, Valencia, Extremadura, Navarra, the Basque
Country, and Rioja
 95% of Spain's Cava production is from
Wine #1
Vintage: 2011
Name: Pinot Grigio
Producer: Ca’ Donini Delle Venezie
Region: Venezie, Italy
Wine #2
Vintage: 2011
Name: Poggio Vignoso-Sangiovese
Producer: Bibbiabi
Region: Chianti, Italy
Wine # 3
Vintage: 2008
Name: Cinque Passi,Negroamaro
Producer: Menhir
Region: Puglia, Italy
Wine # 4
Vintage: 2006
Name: Gran Reserva, Tempranillo, aged 10 years
Producer: Anciano
Region: Valdepeñas, Spain
A pure Pinot Grigio from northern Italy
vinified in in temperature controlled
stainless steel vats. Pale gold in color. A
distinctive bouquet of wild flowers and hints
of honey and a palate of crisp apples.
Dry, crisp, and refreshing on the palate.
Beautifully balanced to compliment a wide
range of foods from white
meats, shellfish, and freshwater.
2011 Ca’ Donini Delle Venezie, Pinot
Grigio, Italy
Fattoria Bibbiani is an old school wine estate, with a history of at least 1300
years. It has been with the Donato family for over 150 and is located 20
kilometres west of Florence on the bank of the Arno river. This is an interesting
winery that has championed such projects as varietally bottling a unique clone
of Sangiovese (Pulignano) that only exists on their estate. Bibbiani makes their
Chianti with neutral methods, seeking simple purity of fruit. Techniques
include: spurred cordon trained vines, stainless steel maceration and
fermentation, and Slavonian oak aging in 10 year old barrels. The soils are
limestone, clay and sandstone. Production is about 5,000 cases.
Abundant, easily expressible cherry and strawberry fruit elide attempts at
complexification. This is charming, free wheeling wine: clean, pure, simple and
delicious. It also happens to be rockin’ tasty with pretty sweet fruit, leather and
medium body. Perfectly suited for high acid pastas, pizza and anything with
tomatos. In many wine lover’s search for greatness, they can miss the
inimitable basic purity of a wine like this Chianti.
13% ABV. Blend: 85% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo & 5% Malvasia
2011 Bibbiabi, Poggio Vignoso, Chianti, Italy
SOIL: Shallow red soil on layers of calcareous rock
WINEMAKING PROCESSES AND REFINING
Pre-fermentary maceration, temperature controlled
fermentation, refining in steel tanks
COLOR: Ruby-red
TASTE: Pleasant, aromatic
BOUQUET: Vanilla, blueberries and spices
2008 Menhir, Cinque Passi, Negroamaro, Puglia, Italy
2006 Anciano, Gran Reserva Tempranillo,
5 Years, Valdepeñas, Spain
Color: Dark ruby shading to brick red
Nose: Spicy notes of leather and vanilla
Palate: Fruit compote and licorice
Finish: Long, & velvety
The Tempranillo grapes were hand-picked from 25
year old vines in stony Valdepeñas vineyards. The
soil is clayey-lime and the climate continental -
cold winters and hot, dry summers. The growers
take care to harvest to achieve optimum ripeness
while maintaining good acidity.

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Italian Wine Laws and Regions Session

  • 2. TODAY’S DISCOVERIES:  Italian Wine Laws – DOC  Italian wine regions  Key grapes and styles  Key terms  History of wine in Spain  Spanish wine laws  Spanish wine laws  Spanish wine regions  Sherry
  • 3.  Some of the grape varieties used today have been in use for thousands of years  Italy is #1 or #2 in wine production in the world, depending on the year; it switches places every few years with France  Italy is a giant peninsula; it is the modifying influence of the Mediterranean and its river systems that make Italy such a large producer
  • 4.  Italy has 20 wine regions, corresponding to its political regions  Average vineyard size is 2 acres  Over 900,000 registered vineyards  Over 1,000 documented grape varieties Most wine is made in cooperatives
  • 5.  Has two quality levels; broken into two sub-levels They are more regulated towards the top; the DOC and DOCG laws govern the area of production, grape varieties, maximum yield per hectare, degree of alcohol, vineyard practices, wine-making practices and aging requirements
  • 6. Vino da Tavola (VDT)  Table wines or wines without any specific geographic origin  VDT’s are not necessarily wines of lesser quality  They may just be wines that do not follow current Italian wine law (i.e. Super Tuscans)  No serious controls on grapes or what region they are from
  • 7. Indicazione Geografica Tipica (IGT)  Table wines with a typical geographical indication  About 130 IGT’s; labeled on the seal around neck IGT is spelled out on the label  Lesser restrictions on soil, area of production, grapes, yield, techniques, aging or alcohol content  Some controls on area within the region and the grapes being used  Leaves room for experimentation and innovation, some very good wines are made in this
  • 8. Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC)  Translated as controlled denomination of origin  Regionally stylistic, with regional grapes  About 350 DOC’s in Italy, labeled on the seal around the neck (not a pink seal like the DOCG)  DOC is spelled out on the label  Lesser restrictions on soil, area of production, grapes, yield, techniques, aging or alcohol content
  • 9. Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG)  Translated as controlled and guaranteed denomination of origin  Usually denotes the highest quality wines for Italy  All 41 DOCG’s have a pink (red) or green (white) seal around neck of bottle with DOCG written on it  DOCG is spelled out on the label  Tested and analyzed by the government
  • 10.
  • 11.  Home of two of Italy’s top red wines:  Barolo and Barbaresco; very full- bodied, tannic and best when aged several years  Equivalent to the best Bordeaux reds  Made from the Nebbiolo grape in a small cluster of villages (including their namesakes)  Located in Southeastern Piemonte  Slight differences in microclimates make for slightly different wines
  • 12.  Barolo must be aged a total of three years between barrel and bottle, five years for Riserva  Barbaresco must be aged a total of two years between barrel and bottle; four for Riserva  Other Wines of note:  Dry: Gatinnara and Gavi di Gavi  Sweet Sparkling: Brachetto D’Aqui & Asti Grape Varietals of note:  Red: Nebbiolo, Barbera & Dolcetto  White: Moscato, Cortese & Arneis
  • 13. Veneto  One of Italy’s largest wine producers  Many of its wines are thin and of low-quality, but the ones that are good can be very good!  Raisinated Corvina grapes produce Amarone  Home of Prosecco, one of Italy’s most popular Spumantes (sparkling wines); used for the Bellini  Produces Italy’s most widely exported wines:  White: Soave and Red: Valpolicella  Both are made in varying quality levels
  • 14. Friuli-Venezia-Giulia (a.k.a. Friuli)  Was part of the Austria until 1866 and still retains its cultural influences  About half of Friuli’s production is red wine, but it is renown for its whites, especially its Pinot Grigios  White grapes: Pinot Grigio, Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Friuli, which was formerly known as Tokay  Red grapes: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Schioppettino
  • 15. Trentino - Alto-Adige  Two provinces:  Trentino is Italian-speaking  Alto-Adige is German-speaking  Was part of Austria until after WW1  Wines often labeled in both German and Italian  Red grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Langrein, Merlot and other natives  White grapes: Chardonnay, Müller- Thurgau, Nosiola, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Grigio
  • 16.  Home of three of Italy's most important red wines: Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino, and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano  Most important grape in this region is Sangiovese  Super Tuscans emerged from a revolution in wine making methods and resistance to required grapes  In the 1970’s and 80’s, there was a backlash against the declining popularity of traditional Chianti  Some winemakers began making wines of superb quality from Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot Tuscany
  • 17.  White Grapes: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Vernaccia, Malvasia and Trebbiano, which is known as Ugni Blanc in France and Palomino in Spain Tuscany Due  Home of a highly- prized dessert wine called Vin Santo, made from dried Nosiola grapes using the same Passito method as Veneto’s Amarone di Valpolicella
  • 18.  The Nosiola grapes are laid out on straw mats and kept in warm, well-ventilated rooms that allow the moisture in the grape to evaporate  The longer the grapes are allowed to dry and desiccate, the higher the resulting residual sugar levels in the wine; they may be dried up to 6 months  Producers may use a starter culture known as a madre that includes a small amount of finished Vin Santo from previous years production  It is believed that this older wine can help jump- start fermentation and add complexity to the wine Vin Santo
  • 19.  Traditionally, the aging barrels were made of chestnut instead of oak, which contributed high amounts of wood tannins and was very porous, promoting excessive evaporation in the barrel  As a result of this same traditional aging method, a large ullage (air space) emerges in the barrel and oxidation takes place, giving the wine its characteristic amber color as well as flavors and traits that may be characterized as faults  The wine is aged for 3 to 5 years in the barrel Vin Santo Due
  • 20.  Towards the end of the 20th century, more produces began switching to oak barrels while maintaining the tradition of not topping-up the barrels and filling in the ullage space  This “Angel's Share” still produces some level of oxidation, though not as severe as the style that was traditionally made  Modern winemaking techniques also call for more temperature control; keeping the wine in rooms with a consistent temperature promotes fresher flavors in the wine and fewer faults Vin Santo Tre
  • 21. Chianti  Main Zone: Chianti Classico is its own DOCG region  Red grapes: Sangiovese (between 75% - 100%), Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot  White grapes: Trebbiano, Malvasia  Other Sub-Zones: Chianti Rufina, Colli Fiorentini, Colli Aretini, Colli Senesi, Colline Pisane, and Chianti Montalbano  All use the same grapes and make similar wines of varying quality Tuscany’s Notable Reds
  • 22. Brunello di Montalcino  Uses the Brunello clone of the Sangiovese grape  Brunellos are very age-able wines, some have been opened after 100 years and were allegedly still good Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Made in and around the town of Montepulciano from the Prugnolo Gentile clone of Sangiovese  The wines are of moderate quality Not to be confused with the Montepulciano grape, which is planted in Central/Southern Italy Tuscany’s Notable Reds
  • 23. Liguria  Not a major wine producer; consuming mostly local grapes  Red grapes: Ormeasco (Dolcetto), and Dolceacqua, which is used in Rabbit Braised with Olives; a famous regional dish  White grapes: Vermentino, Bosco, and Alborola Emilia-Romagna  Italy’s primary food region: Home of Parmigiano- Reggiano, Balsamic Vinegar, and Prosciutto di Parma  White grapes: Albana di Romagna  Red grapes: Sangiovese  Lambrusco: A spritzy purplish wine made from local grapes
  • 24. Umbria  Red wines of note:  Torgiano Rossa Riserva (Sangiovese, Canaiolo & Trebbiano)  Sangrantino di Montefalco, using the Sangrantino grape  White grape: Orvieto; makes a crisp, slightly peachy white Abruzzi  Major volume wine producer, but few quality wines  The exception being Montepulciano d’Abbruzo  Made from the Montepulciano grape, it is one of Italy’s best wine values with large amounts exported to the U.S.  Not the same as Vino Nobile de Montepulciano, which is a Tuscan wine made from Sangioveise White wine: Trebbiano d’Abruzzo (Bombino Bianco)
  • 25. Campania, Apulia, Basilicata, & Calabria  Italy’s southern-most regions  Hot climate, lots of poverty, both of which lead to high-volume production of lower quality wines  Most of the wine is made by cooperatives Red: Aglianico, Negroamaro, Uva di Troia & Primitivo  There is speculation as to whether Primitivo, also thought to be Croatia’s Plavatz Mali, is the original Zinfandel White: Famous for Falanghina, a white varietal which was the favorite of the Romans; of Greek origin
  • 26. Sicily  Sicily’s most notable wine is Marsala, produced in the region surrounding the city of the same name  Sicily is also home to some great Nero d’Avola wines  Marsala, which first received DOC status in 1969, is a fortified wine similar to Port, Madeira and Sherry  Originally, Marsala wine was fortified to ensure that it would last long ocean voyages, but now it is made that way because of its popularity in foreign markets  Marsala contains about 15-20% alcohol by volume  Different Marsala wines are classified according to their color, sweetness and the duration of their aging
  • 27. The 3 levels of sweetness in Marsala: Secco (Dry) Semisecco (Medium-Dry) Dolce (Sweet) The Color Classifications:  Oro has a golden color  Ambra has an amber color  The coloring comes from the mosto cotto (cooked grape must); a sweetener added to the wine  Rubino has a ruby color, made from red grape varieties such as Perricone, Calabrese, Nero d'Avola and Nerello Mascalese
  • 28. The Marsala Aging Classifications Marsala was traditionally served as an apéritif between the first and second courses of a meal. Contemporary diners will serve it chilled with Parmesan, Gorgonzola, Roquefort, and other spicy cheeses; with fruits or pastries, or at room- temperature as a dessert wine. Marsala is sometimes discussed with another Sicilian wine, Passito di Pantelleria (Pantelleria Island's passito-method raisinated wine). Fine: Has minimal aging, typically less than a year Superiore: Aged at least 2 years Superiore Riserva: Aged at least 4 years Vergine a.k.a. Soleras: Aged at least 5 years Vergine a.k.a. Soleras Stravecchio/Riserva: Aged at least 10 yrs.
  • 29. So, what is the story of the grape stomping?
  • 30. Grape-Stomping  Also known as pigeage, grape-stomping has been around almost as long as wine and has certain advantages  When in the vat treading the grapes, one can feel the clumps and break them up, avoiding hot spots in the must, the feet having a different motion than the mechanical crusher/de- stemmer, which is essentially a giant auger  The down-side, is that foot-treading is much slower and more labor intensive.  Cockburns is one winery (Port) who still stomp their grapes, but most wine regions today have outlawed it for health reasons  Grape stomps occur country-wide at local festivals and winery events, but the juice isn't used to make wine; it's just for fun!
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  • 32. Vocabulary to Understand Italian Wines Tenementi: Estate Vendemmia: Vintage Riserva: Aged (usually over 3 yrs.) Imbottigliato: Estate- bottled Fiasco: Flask Bianco: White Rosso: Red Nero: Very dark red Rosato: Pink Amaro: Bitter or very dry Dolce: Very sweet Cantina: Cellar or winery Cotto: Concentrated Vino Liquoroso: Fortified Wines
  • 33.  Grapes grown in Spain for over 5,000 years!  More land planted with vineyards then anywhere else in the world  Approximately 3.5 million acres and ranks third in wine production in the world  Has a large number of old, low-yielding vines planted on dry, infertile land  Until recently, Spain was known for low-quality wine and its fortified Sherries, but modern techniques and equipment have set Spain on a path to producing excellent wines
  • 34. Diverse environment means Spain produces a wide variety of wines: Light, dry white wines from the cool Atlantic region in the northeast  Dry, full-bodied red wines from the north central highlands  Heavy, high-alcohol red wines from the eastern plains and the Mediterranean south  Fortified wines from the sun-baked southwest
  • 35. Vino de Mesa (VdM)  These are wines that are the equivalent of most country's table wines and are made from unclassified vineyards or grapes that have been declassified through "illegal" blending  Similar to the Italian Super Tuscans from the late 20th century, some Spanish winemakers will intentionally declassify their wines so that they have greater flexibility in blending and winemaking methods
  • 36. Vinos de la Tierra (VdlT)  This level is similar to France's Vin de Pays system, normally corresponding to the larger Comunidad Autonóma geographical regions and will appear on the label with broader geographical designations like Andalucía, Castilla La Mancha and Levante Vino de Calidad Producido en Región Determinada (VCPRD)  This level is similar to France's Vin Délimité de Qualité Supérieure (VDQS) system and is considered a stepping-stone towards DO status
  • 37. Denominación de Origen (DO)  This level is for the mainstream quality- wine regions which are regulated by the Consejo Regulador who is also responsible for marketing the wines of that DO  In 2005, nearly two-thirds of the total vineyard area in Spain was within the boundaries of a DO region
  • 38. Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa)  This designation, which is similar to Italy's Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) designation, is for regions with a track record of consistent quality and is meant to be a step above DO level  Rioja was the first region afforded this designation in 1991 and was followed by Priorat in 2003, and Ribera del Duero in 2008
  • 39. But what really designates Spanish wines is the aging!  Spanish wines are often labeled according to the amount of aging the wine has received. When the label says Vino Joven (Young Wine) or Sin Crianza, the wines will have undergone very little, if any, wood aging  Depending on the producer, some of these wines will be meant to be consumed very young; often within a year of their release. Others will benefit from some bottle-aging  For the vintage year (Vendimia or Cosecha) to appear on the label, a minimum of 85% of the grapes must be from that year's harvest  The three most common aging designations on Spanish wine labels are Crianza, Reserva and Gran Reserva
  • 40. Crianza Red wines are aged for 2 years with at least 6 months in oak. Crianza whites and rosés must be aged for at least 1 year with at least 6 months in oak. Reserva Red wines are aged for at least 3 years with at least 1 year in oak. Reserva whites and rosés must be aged for at least 2 years with at least 6 months in oak. Gran Reserva From above-average vintages with reds aged at least 5 yrs.; 18 months in oak and a minimum of 36 months in the bottle. Gran Reserva whites and rosés must be aged for at least 4 yrs. with at least 6 months in oak.
  • 41. Other Spanish aging terms that you may encounter… Vino Noble (Noble Wine) Indicating a minimum of 18 months aging either in barrel or in the bottle. Vino Añejo (Aged Wine) Indicating a minimum of 24 months aging either in barrel or in the bottle. Vino Viejo (Old Wine) Indicating a minimum of 36 months aging in an oxidative environment including exposure to light, heat, and oxygen.
  • 42. Spanish wines are often aged in oak “Barricas”
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  • 44.  White Riojas can be awful stuff, but there is some good white wine to be found in Spain. In Galícia, the most north-western part of Spain, Rias Baixas can be very drinkable. The wines are made from the Albariño grape, and many are cold-fermented to maintain freshness, the antithesis of old-style Rioja whites.  Further to the east, and just a little south, is Rueda. The reputation of this DO once rested on the Sherry-like wines it produced, but it is now the home of some more examples of good Spanish whites made from the Verdejo grape. Spain’s North: Galícia & Rueda
  • 45.  Further across is the Ribera del Duero, a region of vineyards situated around the Duero River, which, as it flows west through Portugal, becomes the Douro, home to the vineyards that give rise to Port  Despite Rioja's reputation, it is Ribera del Duero that is home to Spain's most expensive wine produced by Vega Sicilia  There are some splendid wines to be had in this region, based on a mixture of international (Cabernet Sauvignon) and indigenous (Tempranillo) grapes Spain’s North: Ribera del Duero
  • 46.  Further east, and back to the north, is Rioja  The epitome of fine red Spanish wine for generations, many Riojas can still be superb  Styles vary; from easy-drinking Crianzas (some Reservas), to the Reservas and Gran Reservas of top estates which mature and improve for decades  The grape of note is the Tempranillo, although there are some plantings of lesser grapes, including Garnacha Tinta (known as Grenache in France) Spain’s North: Rioja
  • 47. Rioja is divided up into three regions:  Rioja Alta is by far the most important  Also the name of one of the top estates  Rioja Alavesa produces some drinkable wines  Rioja Baja is less-known for quality wines Rioja Parte Dos
  • 48. Spain’s Northeast: Navarra & Priorato  Just to the northeast is Navarra, often cited as an up and coming rival to Rioja  Moving across to the Mediterranean coast there are a number of DO regions, such as Priorato and Somontano, which for many years produced nothing of great interest  Quite recently, however, Priorato has been making waves, with big, age-worthy and exciting wines from the likes of Clos Mogador and Clos Erasmus
  • 49. Spain’s Northeast: Penedès  Penedès is also worthy of mention, not least because it is home to Torres, one of Spain's most well known wine makers  This company, led by Miguel Torres, produces a vast array of styles using a number of indigenous and international grapes, from sparkling Cava through to Gran Reserva reds  They also have related outposts in Chile (Miguel Torres) and California (Marimar Torres)
  • 50. Just one region dominates Central Spain, and that is La Mancha  This is a vast million acre DO, which relies on Airén for its whites, and Cencibel (another name for Tempranillo, just to confuse you) and Garnacha Tinta (Grenache), among others, for its reds  It has been predicted that La Mancha was going to be the next big success story, following in the footsteps of the Napa Valley and Coonawarra Central Spain: La Mancha
  • 51.  Just to the south of La Mancha is Valdepeñas, a red wine region, much less important than Rioja or the Ribera del Duero, which produces a few drinkable wines  Some of the best producers are using oak- aging to add more appeal to their wines  Further to the east are the DO’s of Almansa, Valencia, Alicante, Jumilla, Yecla and Utiel-Requena  Some good-value wines to be found here Central Spain: Valdepeñas
  • 52.  This is the home of Sherry, produced from a small region around the town of Jerez  Sherry is made principally from the Palomino and Pedro Ximénez grapes, with a splash of Moscatel  The grapes are harvested and fermented in the normal way, but the wines are then left in contact with air for a prolonged period of time  Some will simply oxidize, whereas some develop a coating of Flor, a thick layer of yeast on the surface, which imparts a distinctive flavor Southern Spain: Jerez
  • 53.  The wines then pass through a Solera system, a tier of barrels containing wine of differing ages, oldest at the bottom and youngest at the top  The wine in the lowest barrel is drawn-off and bottled; each barrel is then topped-up with wine from the one above  This maintains a steady stream of wine of similar character year after year, and explains why sherry is almost never vintage dated Southern Spain: Jerez
  • 55.  Fino is a very light, bone-dry and delicate Sherry that is characterized by Flor. It often contains 15 to 18% of alcohol  Manzanilla comes from the Sanlucar district along the sea coast. The sea-air leads the Sherry to develop a salty taste. These wines also have Flor and are produced using the same process as Fino, but as weather conditions are very different in Sanlucar, it develops into a slightly different kind of wine, often containing 15 to 19% alcohol  Amontillado is similar to Fino, without as much Flor development. It is deeper in color and sweeter than Fino and is barrel-aged longer; it often contains 16 to 22% of alcohol Sherry Categories
  • 56.  Oloroso Sherry is deeper/darker in color and has more residual sugar. It is more fortified, and often contains 17 to 22% alcohol  Cream Sherry is very rich and can be a good dessert- style wine. It often contains 15.5 to 22% of alcohol  Pedro Ximénez is a very rich dessert-style wine made from raisins of Pedro Ximénez grapes dried in the sun. It often contains around 18% of alcohol  Palo Cortado is very rare, as it is an Oloroso wine that ages in a different, natural way not achievable by human intervention. It often contains 17 to 22% of alcohol. Sherry Categories
  • 57. And then, there is Cava! Cava is a Spanish sparkling wine made using the French Méthode Champenoise  Originated in Spain’s Catalonia region at the Codorníu Winery in the late 19th century  The wine was originally known as Champaña until Spanish producers officially adopted the term "Cava" (Cellar) in 1970, in reference to the under-ground cellars in which the wines ferment and age in the bottle
  • 58. Cava is Spain’s Sparkling Wine  The early Cava industry was nurtured by the phylloxera epidemic of the late 19th century, which caused the destruction and up- rooting of vineyards planted with red grape varieties  With the success of Champagne, Codorníu and others encouraged vineyard owners to re-plant with white grape varieties like Macabeo, Parellada and Xarel·lo, which are still the primary grapes of Cava today; some producers are experimenting with the use of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir
  • 59. Cava DO Regions  For most of its existence, Cava production was not regulated to a particular region of DO, but rather to the grapes and method of production  Upon acceptance into the European Union in 1986, Spain moved to designate Cava production regions  Today, use of the term "Cava" is restricted to production around select municipalities in Catalonia, Aragon, Castile and León, Valencia, Extremadura, Navarra, the Basque Country, and Rioja  95% of Spain's Cava production is from
  • 60.
  • 61.
  • 62. Wine #1 Vintage: 2011 Name: Pinot Grigio Producer: Ca’ Donini Delle Venezie Region: Venezie, Italy Wine #2 Vintage: 2011 Name: Poggio Vignoso-Sangiovese Producer: Bibbiabi Region: Chianti, Italy
  • 63. Wine # 3 Vintage: 2008 Name: Cinque Passi,Negroamaro Producer: Menhir Region: Puglia, Italy Wine # 4 Vintage: 2006 Name: Gran Reserva, Tempranillo, aged 10 years Producer: Anciano Region: Valdepeñas, Spain
  • 64.
  • 65. A pure Pinot Grigio from northern Italy vinified in in temperature controlled stainless steel vats. Pale gold in color. A distinctive bouquet of wild flowers and hints of honey and a palate of crisp apples. Dry, crisp, and refreshing on the palate. Beautifully balanced to compliment a wide range of foods from white meats, shellfish, and freshwater. 2011 Ca’ Donini Delle Venezie, Pinot Grigio, Italy
  • 66. Fattoria Bibbiani is an old school wine estate, with a history of at least 1300 years. It has been with the Donato family for over 150 and is located 20 kilometres west of Florence on the bank of the Arno river. This is an interesting winery that has championed such projects as varietally bottling a unique clone of Sangiovese (Pulignano) that only exists on their estate. Bibbiani makes their Chianti with neutral methods, seeking simple purity of fruit. Techniques include: spurred cordon trained vines, stainless steel maceration and fermentation, and Slavonian oak aging in 10 year old barrels. The soils are limestone, clay and sandstone. Production is about 5,000 cases. Abundant, easily expressible cherry and strawberry fruit elide attempts at complexification. This is charming, free wheeling wine: clean, pure, simple and delicious. It also happens to be rockin’ tasty with pretty sweet fruit, leather and medium body. Perfectly suited for high acid pastas, pizza and anything with tomatos. In many wine lover’s search for greatness, they can miss the inimitable basic purity of a wine like this Chianti. 13% ABV. Blend: 85% Sangiovese, 10% Canaiolo & 5% Malvasia 2011 Bibbiabi, Poggio Vignoso, Chianti, Italy
  • 67. SOIL: Shallow red soil on layers of calcareous rock WINEMAKING PROCESSES AND REFINING Pre-fermentary maceration, temperature controlled fermentation, refining in steel tanks COLOR: Ruby-red TASTE: Pleasant, aromatic BOUQUET: Vanilla, blueberries and spices 2008 Menhir, Cinque Passi, Negroamaro, Puglia, Italy
  • 68. 2006 Anciano, Gran Reserva Tempranillo, 5 Years, Valdepeñas, Spain Color: Dark ruby shading to brick red Nose: Spicy notes of leather and vanilla Palate: Fruit compote and licorice Finish: Long, & velvety The Tempranillo grapes were hand-picked from 25 year old vines in stony Valdepeñas vineyards. The soil is clayey-lime and the climate continental - cold winters and hot, dry summers. The growers take care to harvest to achieve optimum ripeness while maintaining good acidity.