This is the complete slide deck from our 3rd Annual webinar from August 24 2013. Some great information contained within about weeds, lawns, trees, shrubs, pests and insects and more!

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Today’s Agenda
SECTION 1 - Introduction to our Team
SECTION 2 – Weed ID Guide
SECTION 3 – Lawn Care
- Watering & Mowing Practices
- NEW Noon WaterSaver Program
- Aeration & Overseeding, Lime, Potassium
- Fall Lawn Care
SECTION 4 – Disease ID Guide
SECTION 5 – Pest ID Guide
SECTION 6 - Tree & Shrub
- Fall Tree & Shrub Services
- 2013 Overview
- Tree & Shrub ID Guide
SECTION 7 – RAFFLE and Q & A

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SECTION 1 – OUR TEAM
Eric T
Service
Manager
Jeffrey C
Lawn & Tree
Specialist
Derek B
Service
Manager
Scott V
Service
Manager
Dan C
Sales
Manager

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SECTION 2 – WEED ID GUIDE
“Plant out of Place”
• Any plant growing where it is not wanted.
• Plant with generally undesirable properties.
• Plant that spreads rapidly and competitively.
• A non-native (exotic) invasive plant.

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Oxalis
• It is most recognizable due to the heart-
shaped leaflets that are found three to a leaf.
• The plant has a shallow taproot, and hairy
stems that are 4 to 10 inches tall.
• Flowers are bright yellow, have five petals,
and bloom in early spring (March to April)
• Capable of living more than two years.
• They thrive in weak, thin turf; golf fairways
and roughs; home lawns; playfields; and
industrial grounds
• Proper turf maintenance is the key to control
of this weed.

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Spurge
• Leafy spurge is a creeping
perennial that reproduces
from seed and vegetative
root buds.
• Appears in spring and
summer
• Prefers sunny areas
• Forms a stiff mat that
chokes and shades grass

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Crabgrass
• Tight compact crab-like circle
• Seeds sprout in spring and summer
after rain or watering
• Very fast growing
• Likes bare and weak areas of the lawn
• Fight by growing a dense healthy lawn
• Proper mowing, fertilization, and
watering
• Spot treat with appropriately labeled
products.

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Plantain
• Found in moist soil, shade
• Spreads by seeding
• Appears in spring and continues through
summer
• Broadleaf plantain common in
wet, compacted soil
• Perennial broadleaf turf weeds are capable
of living more than two years.
• They thrive in weak, thin turf
• Controlled with appropriately labeled
weed-kill products.
• It helps to aerate compacted soil and
avoid over-watering.

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Wild Violets
• Wild violet is most often found in
shaded, fertile sites and prefers moist soils.
• Flowers occurs in mid-May
• Usually violet colored, but can vary from
deep-blue-violet to completely white.
• Plants spread by rhizomes and seed.
• Difficult to control
• They are capable of living more than two years
• Proper turf maintenance is the key to
control of this weed.

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Nutsedge
• Identified by its stout triangular stem
• Yellow nutsedge has dark, unevenly globe-
shape, almond tasting tubers at the ends of slender
rhizomes
1. Underground tubers are ¼ inches or less, roughly round
shaped, and smooth
2. Underground tubers are not attached to each other in chains.
3. They exist as a single nutlet at the end of an underground chain
4. Seed heads are yellow
5. Leaves are narrow 1/4 to 5/16 inches, light green/yellow in color
6. Leaves are generally upright (60 degrees or more)

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SECTION 3 – LAWN CARE PRACTICES

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Noon Fall Lawn Care
Round 5 Late Summer: August
A second application of organic fertilizer is applied to green up
the lawn. Spot weeding applied to control any present weeds.
Round 6 Early Fall: August-September
A third application of organic fertilizer is applied as a granular
with a root builder and one of the only with phosphate.
Round 7 Late Fall Winter Application: September-October
A winterizer fertilizer is applied to prepare the lawn for another
harsh New England winter. This application helps provide
nutrients to the roots of the grass as it enters its dormant stage.

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Lawnmower
• Fall maintenance checklist
– Clean your mower right
– Grease fittings
– Lubricate linkages and cables
– Check and replace the air filter
– Change oil and filter
– Change the spark plug & check wire
– Check and sharpen mower blades
• Fuel Stabilizer in Winter for a better Spring
– Drain the fuel by running the tank dry
– Stabilize the fuel and store

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Watering & Mowing newly seeded areas
• New seed - watered 2-3 times each day, preferably
early morning and late afternoon.
• Normally 15 minutes per zone during each watering
cycle is sufficient until seed is established.
• The lawn should be kept lightly damp. Do not over
water!
• Watch the weather and adjust your watering to
keep the soil lightly damp, not soaking wet and
muddy.
• Once established, reduce watering to once a day.
• You should wait until the new seedlings are about
2” before mowing.
• Make sure your blade is sharp so that it does not
tug on the new sprouts and raise the blade to 2 ½ -
3” for the first couple of mows.
• This will help the new grass develop a deeper root
system while not sending your existing grass into
shock by cutting off too much of the blade at once.

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• Used on PGA tournament golf courses
• Safe for kids and pets
• Reduce run-off
• Improve lawn health
• Save money
• Help the environment by reducing water usage
• Better turf performance
• Notably less runoff on sloped areas – low areas
aren’t wet, high areas aren’t dry
Save 20-50% on water and energy
• Increased fertilizer efficiency.
• Increases benefits of Noon’s 7-step Lawn Care
Program

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Fall Core Aeration
Core aeration is a type of cultivation or cultural
practice that extracts a plug of turf, thatch, and soil
and deposits the plug on the surface of the lawn.
The aeration process leaves holes in the turf and soil
that encourages:
• Oxygen exchange in the root zone.
• Improves moisture and nutrient penetration.
• Relieves compaction.
• Increases the rate of thatch decomposition.
What is core aeration?

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1. Improves Turf Health. Core aeration provides the root zone with greater access to air, water,
and fertilizer. This access to air, water, and nutrients, improves the overall health of the turf.
Also, turfgrass roots will be deeper and more extensive.
2. Aids Thatch Management. Core aeration helps in thatch management by punching holes in the
thatch layer, and by introducing thatch-decomposing microorganisms from the soil to the top of
the thatch layer.
3. Relieves Soil Compaction. Soil density is decreased by removing cores, thus relieving
compaction.
4. Benefits pH Modification. Applying lime or sulphur after core aeration promotes the change of
pH deeper into the soil profile. This will let nutrients penetrate deeper in the root zone to
become available to the turf.
5. Benefits Overseeding Operations. It is helpful to core aerate before and after seeding into an
existing lawn. Soil cultivation enhances seed-topsoil contact necessary for germination, and
creates a moist, protected environment optimal for seedling growth and development.
What are the benefits of core aeration?

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• Simple & Effective
• Build turf density
• Healthier & Stronger
• Fight off weeds & disease
• Couple with Aeration
• With aeration seed to soil contact is at its
highest granting best germination rates
• Seeds will germinate within 2 weeks to 30
days fully
• Water regularly for optimum germination
Overseeding

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Fall Lime Application
The application of lime is an integral and often essential
part of quality turfgrass management.
The objectives of liming are to :
• Neutralize acids
• Correct calcium deficiencies in the soil
• Precipitate soluble compounds of iron and aluminum
that are toxic
• Raising the pH of the soil to improve soil microorganism
activity & increase the availability of nutrients.
• pH in New England is highly acidic naturally, applying
lime application regularly will help to regulate soil pH.
•This creates less weeds, potentially less moss, and better
absorption rates of fertilizer.

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Fall Potassium
• Applied in the spring or fall, potassium helps
promote bottom growth of the turfgrass.
• Reduces transpiration (loss of water through
the blades), so grass needs less water
• It helps develop the root system in the fall and
improves overall winter hardiness.
• It helps fight disease as well as improve wear
tolerance.

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SECTION 4 – LAWN DISEASE ID GUIDE
-
If neglected, your lawn will suffer
the consequences, like disease.
Proper cultural practices like aeration
and an ergonomically correct approach
to fertilization will help maximize the
appeal of your home.

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Pythium Blight
• Also known as “cottony blight”," or "grease
spot," is a highly destructive turfgrass disease
• All naturally cultivated cool-season
turfgrasses are susceptible to Pythium and if
conditions are favorable
• Can destroy a whole turfgrass stand in a few
days or less.
• Pythium favors hot and very humid weather
and will usually develop in low areas.

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Snow Mold
• A disease of grasses appearing as grayish-white or
pinkish patches after heavy snow has melted .
• Two common types of snow mold are found in New
England
• Pink snow mold may initially look white and mature to a
faint pink to salmon color.
•Gray snow mold is white to gray.
• Caused by fungi that thrive at low temperatures.
• All common lawn grasses may be infected, but Kentucky
bluegrass fescue lawns are the least susceptible to severe
damage.
• Fall fertility programs should be timed so that they do
not influence the ability of the grass to become dormant
for the winter season.
Noon’s rounds 5, 6, and 7 play an important role
in your lawn experience this year and next spring.

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Fusarium Blight (Frog’s Eye)
Can Be Avoided with Good Lawn Maintenance
• Watch for this lawn to disease to show up
when it's hot, humid, and sunny during
drought conditions.
• Fusarium blight has a recognizable "frog-eye"
pattern.
• If conditions are right, the diseased areas will
grow together, and large areas of the lawn may
be destroyed.
• You can help the situation by aerating your
lawn each season.

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Dollarspot
• Dollar spot is encouraged by drought stress
and leaf wetness.
• All grasses are susceptible to dollar spot
disease, but some Kentucky bluegrass cultivars
are relatively resistant.
• Excessive thatch accumulations greatly
encourage dollar spot activity.
• Dollar spot disease responds readily to
fungicides
• You can help the situation by aerating your
lawn each season.

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Brown Patch
• Fungal disease of hot, humid weather
• Most common in mid to late summer when
night temperatures and relative humidity stay
high for several days and are accompanied by
rain.
• Expanding patches of discolored grass up to
several feet in diameter mark the presence of
a severe outbreak.
• Brown patch is known as a foliar disease, so it
does not have any effect on the crown or roots
of the turf plant.
• Following the correct agronomic schedule
and proper cultural practices every season can
help minimize or eliminate the problem.

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SECTION 5 – PEST ID GUIDE
Insect pests can be grouped into two major categories:
1) Those that feed on leaves.
2) Those that invade bark and trunks.

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Pest ID Guide
Insect pests can then be categorized into sub-groups:
Chewing insects : Eat entire parts of the leaf. They can feed on
the edges of leaves, chew holes in the centers of leaves
("shotgun" holes), skeletonize the leaf (eat tissue between
veins), or "window feed" (eat away only the upper or lower
surface of the leaf).
Sucking insects feed on plants by sucking the juices out of
leaves or stems. Common sucking insects are aphids, scale, and
mites.

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Black Vine Weevil
• Adult will feed on over 100 different kinds
of trees, shrubs, vines, and flowers in
landscapes.
• They have a strong preference for yews &
various species of rhododendrons.
• Can also be found damaging
hemlock, Japanese
andromeda, Euonymus, mountain laurel &
Japanese Holly
• Adults feed along the leaf margins leaving
distinctive hemispherical notches.
• If left untreated it could truly weaken and
destroy your plant.

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Mealy Bug
• Feed on plant juices and are destructive
especially for greenhouse ornamentals,
succulents and fruit trees.
• Like many pests, mealy bugs tend to favor
new growth.
• Over time, their damage causes the leaves
to yellow and eventually drop from the
plant.
• They can also cause fruits, vegetables, and
flower buds to prematurely drop off.
• In a bad infestation, their waxy excretions
encourages the development of sooty
mold fungus.
Among the most destructive plant pests

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Japanese Beetles
• The Japanese Beetle is an
invasive insect that can cause
some pretty nasty damage to
your favorite ornamental trees
and shrubs.
• It eats the tender tissues
between the veins of the
leaves of plants that it attacks
and all that's left of the leaves
are the brown, skeletal
remains.

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Japanese Beetles Skeleton Leaves
Japanese Beetles Eating Skeletonized Leaf

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Fall Webworm
• Pest of shade trees and shrubs and
appears from late summer through early
fall.
• Feeds on almost 90 species of deciduous
trees commonly attacking hickory, walnut,
birch, cherry, and crabapple.
• Fall webworm constructs its nest over the
end of the branch.
• The large conspicuous webs contain
caterpillars, dead partially eaten leaves,
and fecal droppings.

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Fall Webworm
• The larval stage of this pest skeletonizes and
consumes leaves inside the protection of a
tent-like web that they enlarge as they
require additional food and grow.
• They may defoliate a tree occasionally, but
rarely kill it.
• On shade trees webs usually occur on
occasional branches.
• They may not injure the tree
appreciably, but they reduce its ornamental
value.

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Winter Moth
• Winter moth larvae hatch and feed ravenously on
leaves and fruit beginning in early spring.
• In June, larvae drop to the ground under the trees
where they bury themselves in the soil until fall.
• November through January, adults come out and
mate.
• Use of Horticultural oils to suffocate insect egg-
casings and denigrate populations of insects.
• Use of Merit Soil injection technologies to stop very
damaging insects from destroying trees and shrubs
for the long term

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SECTION 6 - TREE AND SHRUB CARE

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2013 Season Notes Probably the most neglected or
ignored investments we have on our
property are our trees and shrubs.
• This season we had a lot of snow that actually insulated your trees and shrub root systems which is great
however the heavy snow did cause some limb breakage.
• In June we had a lot of rain and lots of new growth but fungi issues were abound.
• This year the insect most prevalent were canker worm in
easly spring and through out the season lacebugs mealy
bugs and scale issues.
• The beetles in July were mainly the European chafer Beetle attacking the
trees and shrubs and some Japanese but in less populations.
• Once the warm weather starts to get cooler it is time to prune all dead
material out of your plant material. Also prune to shape to minimize
structural damage from winter.

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Fall Tree & Shrub Care
• Round 5 Late Summer Disease and Insect Resistance: August
Round 5 is a fungicidal and insecticidal product to target
horticultural insects and diseases.
• Round 6 Early Fall Fertilizer: August-September
Our Round 6 application is a fertilizer to all trees and shrubs
which will help their root systems. This fall feeding will help in
the overall health and growth of trees and shrubs.
• Round 7 Late Fall Dormant Oils: September-October
Our Round 7 application is a non-toxic dormant oil spray to kill
insect eggs that are laid on the buds of tree and shrub
branches.

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MSI & WP
Merit Soil injection
• Performed fall or spring an injection is made around the drip line or
canopy
• Deals with Wooly Adelgid on Hemlocks, scale, and more.
• Goes up root system and into branches, needles and or buds
• Winter Protection or Wilt Proofing
• A vapor applied to all non-deciduous shrubs to seal in moisture.
• Will help minimize winter damage such as creating brown or maroon
leaves and wind burn.

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White and Grey Birch
• Known for their pleasing white bark and
colorful leaves in fall.
• It is best to pick a species that will do well in
snow and cold and is native to your region.
• Its recommended to not prune or water after
late August on Birches.
• Insulate the base of the tree with mulch 2-3”
woodchips or compost made of leaves.
• The snow pack will mulch, insulate and keep a
moderate temperature throughout winter.
• Do not place the mulch against the tree bark

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Flowering Crabapple
• Its best to refrain from fertilizing late
summer to minimize frost and winter
damage on new growth and buds.
• Water your tree early fall in the
mornings to encourage evaporation.
Install a 6” layer of mulch to insulate the
roots.
• Be sure not to apply the mulch
touching the bottom of the tree itself.
• If you wish to apply blankets or sheets
to the trunk that is fine but remove daily
in the AM so the tree can get sunlight.

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Cherry Tree
• Trees with a south facing side will be
susceptible to sun scald to the tree trunks.
• To minimize damage in winter it is best to
use a white wrap that is reusable every
season.
• For moles, voles and mice, wrap a piece of
sheet made of Tin, about 17” high and 3” in
width or you can purchase a premade one.
• To prevent deer damage, you may add a
cylindrical wrap around the flexible wrap
• Mulch a 3” layer but not touching any
portion of the tree trunk.

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Rhodedendrons
• Protect them for winter by applying a
fluffy mulch made of whole or chopped up
oak leaves or salt marsh hay applied
around the base right up to the plant.
• It can be put down right over any
existing mulch. Use 4-6” in depth.
• Anti-desiccants can be applied in a waxy
form to the leaves and will seal in
moisture.
• This material can be used on all non-
deciduous plant material.

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Azaleas
• Watering them in the fall before the ground
freezes.
• Azaleas will need 20 minutes in a drippy hose
couple times a week during season.
• Feed them in spring and or fall with a slow
release product for acid loving plants.
• Mulch 2-3” for root ball protection.
• Do not place the mulch up against the trunk.
• Prune after flowering in the spring to promote
new growth by hand pruners.
• Spray an anti-desiccant in late fall. This will help
to minimize wind and winter burn.

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Japanese Maple
• 2 ½ -3” of shredded hardwood mulch.
• Water 2x a week during the season deeply &
more often if its a new tree.
• Check for insect and disease issues.
• Prune your tree late summer/early fall to get
ready for winter.
• Prune out middle to increase air circulation &
sunlight.
• Prune out all dead twigs & branches.
• Re-mulch 3” of shredded hardwood if needed &
move it away about 3-4” from the trunk.
• During winter, remove snow ASAP

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Burning Bush
• Mulch a 2-4” layer of organic material.
This will minimize soil moisture loss.
• Trim in early spring to natural contour
or desired shape.
• Protect for winter with burlap or other
breathable material.
• You can also build an “A” frame of wood
over each plant.
• Tie wrap branches loosely together
where snow and ice usually collect.
• Knock off snow ASAP.

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Thank You
Raffle for FREE 2-step Noon WaterSaver for 2013.
SECTION 7 - TREE AND SHRUB CARE

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and now… our
open Q&A forum!