9. Single-Lens Reflex Camera This cross-section (side-view) of the optical components of an SLR shows how the light passes through the lens assembly (1), is reflected by the mirror (2) and is projected on the matte focusing screen (5) . Via a condensing lens (6) and internal reflections in the pentaprism (7) the image appears in the eye piece (8) . When an image is taken, the mirror moves in the direction of the arrow, the focal plane shutter (3) opens, and the image is projected in the film (4) in exactly the same manner as on the focusing screen.
36. 4. Exposing for the shot Exposure Triangle ISO - the measure of a digital camera sensor’s sensitivity to light Aperture - the size of the opening in the lens when a picture is taken Shutter Speed - the amount of time that the shutter is open
It's better to maximize resolution then crop the part you want in Photoshop instead of digital zoom
Bag – shock proof, water proof, convenient Memory cards – better to buy 2 2gb than 1 4gb so than if it gets corrupted it will not damage all the pictures Filter – polarizer makes colors stand out, good for travelling (makes the sky bluer) - removes reflections buy circular/neutral polarizer ) Tripod – heavy, sturdy, carbon and not plastic, can be repositioned sideways upwards and different angles Lens hood – blocks the light that comes in the lens Lens cleaning kit – blow brush, lens tissue and cleaner fluid - make sure there is no dust first before using the lens tissue or it will be like sanding your lens - wipe glass in circular motion from inside out - use anti-static brush
When you do override your camera and choose a specific ISO you’ll notice that it impacts the aperture and shutter speed needed for a well exposed shot. For example - if you bumped your ISO up from 100 to 400 you’ll notice that you can shoot at higher shutter speeds and/or smaller apertures.
When choosing the ISO setting I generally ask myself the following four questions: Light - Is the subject well lit? Grain - Do I want a grainy shot or one without noise? Tripod - Am I using a tripod? Moving Subject - Is my subject moving or stationary? Situations where you might need to push ISO to higher settings include: Indoor Sports Events - where your subject is moving fast yet you may have limited light available. Concerts - also low in light and often ‘no-flash’ zones Art Galleries, Churches etc- many galleries have rules against using a flash and of course being indoors are not well lit. Birthday Parties - blowing out the candles in a dark room can give you a nice moody shot which would be ruined by a bright flash. Increasing the ISO can help capture the scene.
The f-number is the ratio of that focal length divided by the diameter of the aperture (the width of the opening). when the aperture of a 200mm lens (focal length) is 50 mm (aperture opening) wide, your f-stop will be f/4, because the ratio of 200/50 equals four. If you "stop down" your aperture to half that size - 25 mm wide - your f-stop will be f/8. (200 divided by 25.) So the "f-number" gets larger as you let in less light.
This technique can come in particularly handy in portraiture. Tightly focus on the subject's face and open up your aperture to blur whatever is in the background. You'll have a portrait that jumps out at you you can use depth of field to make one object stand out from a large group of similar objects
you want to use deep depth of field – so that just about everything in the picture is in focus. This is commonly used in landscape and architectural photography, and a small aperture is the way to go
-More blur for low ISO -too long shutter would make movement invisible -Flash also effective for freezing
Under exposure caused by lack of light to add light we either use - longer aperture or slower shutter Overexposed is caised by too much light to reduce light we either use a - small aperture or faster shutter speed