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Xeriscape-To-Go
                                               Xeriscape
                                              (Zer'-i-skap)

                                   Plan Your Water Wise Landscape
                                While Conserving Our Natural Resources

                           More people are taking advantage of a water-saving
                         concept that improves our home landscape environment.

The concept is Xeriscape, a new and exciting idea that helps homeowners everywhere blend traditional
style gardening with the desire to save water. By going Xeriscape, your outdoor landscape environment
can echo the natural world of our region, plus you reap the benefits of saving water, time and money and
reducing maintenance. Your Xeriscape garden will use less chemical fertilizer and pesticides, so the
whole environment benefits with fewer chemicals flowing to our precious bay. And if you're not totally
convinced, Texas studies show that Xeriscape landscapes can use an average of 40% less water than
traditional landscapes. For residential homes, this could mean a substantial amount of summer lawn
water savings. With news like that, everyone will be saying, "We're going Xeriscape"!

Seven principles of Xeriscape

1.       Planning and Designing

2.       Soil Analysis

3.       Appropriate Plant Selection

4.       Practical Turf Areas

5.       Efficient Irrigation

6.       Use of Mulches

7.       Appropriate Maintenance

GOOD THINGS HAPPE IN XERISCAPE GARDEN

Xeriscape garden . . .

♦    Offer an attractive, green landscape with hundreds of colorful plants to choose from. Remember,
     Xeriscape is not just cactus and rocks.
♦    May require less maintenance, mowing, fertilizers, pesticides and other yard work.
♦    Save energy when trees and shrubs are properly located for lower cooling and heating bills
♦    Work with Mother Nature instead of against it.
♦    Reduce the demand on our limited water supplies, which extends the life of municipal water and
     wastewater treatment facilities.
♦    Lessen the impact of droughts.
♦    Reduce pollution run-off as fertilizers and pesticides are avoided or used sparingly.


#1       PLANNING AND DESIGNING A GARDENER'S DREAM
A water-efficient landscape begins with a well-planning landscape design. This concept can be
applied if you are starting from scratch or simply renovating residential or commercial property. The
amount of time you invest in planning your project will result in a great deal of satisfaction, plus provide
excellent curb appeal and improved property value. You may choose to do-it-yourself, or seek help from
professional landscape architects, designers or nurserymen. We suggest you set objectives and a budget
and envision the appearance, function, maintenance and water requirements of your garden.

Study Your Site
         Start with a scaled drawing or plot plan of the lot or site. Sketch all physical objects on the
property such as house/building, decks, fence, patios, driveways, trees, overhead utility lines, etc. You can
create your own plot plan using 24" by 36" transparent tracing paper with grid lines of eight by eight
squares per inch. Select a scale such as 1/8 inch = 1 foot (1 small square equal 1 foot). Identify the soil
type and any possible drainage problems as well as availability to water to the site. Place a north arrow on
your drawing to allow you to consider the amount of sun, shade, and wind direction and view of the
garden. Design of floor plans, foundations and other features should reflect the site topography and
existing vegetation. In new construction, split-level plans, terraces, and decks can help integrate
structures into the site and keep the natural contour of the land. Buildings and homes on an east-west axis
should take advantage of existing trees for shade to reduce energy demands for cooling.

Envision Your Garden
        Every landscaper's needs vary. Homeowners will children and pets may prefer a large play area.
Those who prefer to entertain may desire decks or pools, while the avid gardener may want a space for a
year-around vegetable garden.

          To successfully plan your garden, review your current and future needs. You may desire to
increase your privacy, to improve a backyard corner or simply wish to cover bare grass areas. Planning
your garden can result in hours of fun. Determine the amount of time and money you wish to invest and
realize that your garden can be implemented gradually over several years. Your plan will be successful if
you implement each Xeriscape principle. As a reminder, installing or remodeling a garden can be hard
work. We suggest getting help from family or friends. If your budget allows it, find professional help.

Help from Professionals
          A complexity of landscape issues as well as safety and environmental considerations may require
professional assistance. Consider hiring professionals to design, install and maintain landscape and
irrigation systems. Landscape architects and designers can assist with site layout and landscape design.
Licensed irrigators can design and install irrigation systems. Professional landscape contractors and
nurseries can help your ideas become reality. Seek reputable landscape maintenance companies to protect
your investment. Ask companies for references, samples of their work, and proof of professional
certification or license.

Choose Plants for Master Plan
          In designing your garden, choose plants that conform to the goals of the master plan. Be sure
that plant selections are drought tolerant and well adapted to soil and sun conditions of the site. Group
plants with similar water and sunlight needs. Some areas of the landscape may require low to moderate to
full irrigation. Here are some suggestions to organize your landscape watering needs.

          Full irrigation areas are usually grass areas that require more water. Limit these areas to those
that get a lot of use or are highly visible.

          Moderate irrigation areas include established plant and shrub beds that require little watering
as they can usually survive from natural rainfall. Those beds located around the perimeter of the home
benefit from roof runoff.
Low irrigation areas are often border areas containing low or moderate water-demanding
plants. Shrubs and trees are best served by using drip irrigation so the plant's roots receive water directly.
Areas in the garden where supplemental water is unavailable also benefit from drip systems.

         Native and low-water use plants offer beautiful and colorful selections. Attractive perennials that
provide year-around color and interest can replace costly annual plants. Wildflower plants, native grasses,
and paved patios and walkways are popular and serve as good alternatives to traditional lawns. Consider
the proper placement of trees and other plants for shade, screening and defining outdoor space.

Cool Shadings
          Standing under a tree on a hot day works just like wearing a straw hat to block out the sun's rays.
Trees provide impressive energy savings when properly located to shade homes/buildings and to create
wind breaks during winter months. Mark your master plan with any existing trees and power lines and
allow for growth. Define if additional trees and power lines and allow for growth. Decide if additional
trees are needed on your plan. Identify the desired species, based on maximum height, branch spread and
maintenance required. Trees also clean the air by removing dust and carbon dioxide that may contribute
to global warming. Trees not only improve property values, but also make the community greener. They
provide cover, protection for small animals and nesting sites and food for birds.

Trees for Energy
         Planting trees on the west and southwest side of homes and buildings can create enough shade to
lower roof and wall temperatures by up to 20 degrees. Shading an outside air-conditioning unit can help
save up to 10% on summer cooling bills. Leave at least three feet around the unit to allow for air flow and
service access. A deciduous tree will create shade in the summer and allow sunlight through open
branches for warmth and light in the winter.

Principle #1 Points Covered

ü Start by envisioning the garden's appearance, function, maintenance level and water requirements
ü Decide how much money you want to spend. Your project may be completed through a one-time
  investment or phased over several years
ü Choose to read, research and do-it-yourself or to hire a professional
ü Sketch a plan identifying existing hardscape surfaces on property along with existing plants, trees,
  driveways, power lines, etc
ü Study your site's drainage problems, availability of water and soil type
ü Decide how you want to use your yard (play areas, deck, vegetable gardens, compost bind, fence
  screen or wind breaks)
ü Take advantage of tree shade for energy savings


#2       SOIL ANALYSIS AND IMPROVEMENT

         While soil analysis and improvement is the second principle of Xeriscape landscaping,
professionals believe that it is one of the most essential for any garden's success. Soil amendments help to
improve the physical structure of the soil either by loosening tightly compacted clay soil or by adding
structure to structureless sandy soil.

Test the Soil
         Soil types vary from site to site and sometimes within a site. South Texas soils range from clay
to sandy loam to sand. A soil analysis based on random sampling provides information that allows proper
selection of plants, soil amendments and fertilizers. Collect the soil sample and send it to a soil-testing
laboratory to determine the nutrient content, soil pH and other information. Contact the Texas
Agricultural Extension Service - Nueces County office in Robstown at 361/767-5223 to receive a free
sample bag and instructions. For a nominal fee, your soil sample can be mailed to the Texas Agricultural
Extension Service Soil Laboratory in College Station for analysis.

Improve the Soil with Amendments
         Most soil will benefit from adding organic matter. Organic matter includes such items as peat
moss, processed compost, composted cotton burr or manure. Soil amendments enhance the health and
growing capability of the soil by improving water drainage, moisture penetration and water holding
capacity. Compost, either made at home or purchased commercially is the best organic fertilizer
available.

Sample Soil Recipe
        Here's a good recipe for amending the soil for a 100 square foot area. Cover the area and then
thoroughly mix or till in the amendments to a depth of 10 to 12 inches.

         4 inches of organic matter such as peat moss or compost
         4 pounds of Ironite or equivalent product
         25 pounds of composted manure
         If soil has high clay content, add 2 inches of coarse sand
         If soil has high sand content, add 2 inches of a high clay content soil

Principle #2 Points Covered

ü Test the soil to determine the type of soil amendments needed to support healthy plants and conserve
  moisture
ü Soil testing is available for a nominal fee by the Texas Agricultural Extension Service
ü Improve the soil with amendments to change the physical character of the soil by loosening tight
  compact clay soil or by creating structure in sandy soil
ü Follow the sample soil recipe by adding 4 inches of organic matter and mix to a depth of 10 to 12
  inches.

#3       APPROPRIATE PLANT SELECTION

What and Where to Plant
         Before planting, select and group you trees and shrubs based on their watering needs (i.e., low,
moderate and high), desired effect, color, texture and mature size. Keep native plants in mind for their
hardiness and drought tolerance. Give trees and shrubs plenty of room to grow to avoid rubbing against
power lines or intruding into the underground wastewater system which can result in the invasion of roots
to the wastewater drain lines. Identify plants on the master plant.

How to Plant
          Plant soon after purchase to avoid unnecessary transplant shock. Dig planting holes two to three
times the width of the original container. The hole should be the same depth as the rootball. Place the
plant in the hole so the top of the root ball is even with the natural soil grade or slightly higher. For
example, an oak tree would adapt to its location better if it is placed 3" higher than the soil grade as
compared to being planted 1/4" too low. Backfill the hole with a good soil mixture. Compress the filled
mixture several times during backfilling to prevent air pockets. Water thoroughly and deeply after
planting; cover the rootball and adjacent soil with a thick layer of organic mulch.

Principle #3 Points Covered

ü    Group plant based on their watering needs (low, moderate, high)
ü    Give plants room to grow above and below ground
ü    Place plants in holes two to three times the size of original container and at proper depth
ü    Place plants in the ground while they are still fresh to avoid transplant shock
ü    Backfill with good soil mixture
ü    Compress soil to prevent air pockets
ü    Water plants deeply after planting
ü    Place thick layer of organic mulch around plants and trees

TREE PLANTING AND MAINTENANCE

          The ideal time for planting trees in Texas is November through March. Trees are dormant
during that period and the shock of transplanting is lower. Palms, however, are best planted in the heat
of the summer during their growing season.
          Give trees adequate room to grow, both above ground and below. For energy conservation and
shade purposes, plant deciduous trees on the southeast, southwest and west sides of the house or building.
          A tree's survival depends on deep watering at planting time and about once a week during
summer, especially during the first year. Apply water in the root zone area below the branches, not right
at the trunk. After the first or second year, a tree should be able to survive on natural rainfall unless there
is a drought.
          Fertilize with a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) to give trees an extra boost during the early spring.
Don't fertilize until new spring leaves are fully opened.

#4       PRACTICAL TURF AREAS

          Grass requires or water and maintenance than any other part of the landscape. Mowing,
fertilizing, and watering a lawn can take many hours of work each week. Consider the following
guidelines for Xeriscape lawns.

Lawn Size and Location
         Limit lawn areas to an appropriate and practical size to decrease water and maintenance costs.
Lawn areas are desirable for recreational sports and some pets. However, many lawns that exist primarily
for visual beauty could be replaced with other attractive alternatives.

Landscape Alternatives
         There are many attractive alternatives to planting traditional grass areas. Consider planting beds
such as shrubs, perennials and ground covers that use less water and are able to maintain a green
appearance in a landscape. Mulch beds can be used in limited areas such as around driveways, pet and
service areas or paths to discourage weed growth and reduce evaporation and erosion. Additionally,
decks, patios and walkways expand outdoor living areas and require less maintenance than lawns, and
watering a lawn can take many hours of work each week. Consider the following guidelines for Xeriscape
lawns.

Lawn Size and Location
         Limit lawn areas to an appropriate and practical size to decrease water and maintenance costs.
Lawn areas are desirable for recreational sports and some pets. However, many lawns that exist primarily
for visual beauty could be replaced with other attractive alternatives.

Landscape Alternatives
         There are many attractive alternatives to planting traditional grass areas. Consider planting beds
such as shrubs, perennials and ground covers that use less water and are able to maintain a green
appearance in a landscape. Mulch beds can be used in limited areas such as around driveways, pet and
service areas or paths to discourage weed growth and reduce evaporation and erosion. Additionally,
decks, patios and walkways expand outdoor living areas and require less maintenance than lawns.
Wildflowers and native grasses make excellent lawn substitutes in large open areas, natural style
landscapes and low use areas.

Choose the Best Grass
Grasses, which are drought tolerant, become dormant and turn brown when not watered.
Drought tolerant lawns may not be green during a drought, but will survive and turn green after the next
rainfall or watering. You should consider the amount of sunlight and the intended use of the grass before
choosing one of the four grasses listed on page 17. They are ranked from most drought tolerant to the
least drought tolerant.

Warm Season Grasses
          Buffalo grass is a native prairie grass that reaches a maximum height of six to twelve inches and
can be left to grow naturally without mowing. Buffalo grass requires minimal irrigation, fertilization and
pesticides resulting in lower maintenance costs. Buffalo grass requires a minimum of six hours of sun per
day and may require one to two years to establish from seed. 'Prairie' buffalo grass variety is a dense, fine-
textured grass with low growth and excellent cold, heat and drought tolerance. The '609' buffalo grass
variety has the same characteristics as 'Prairie," but it maintains a darker blue-green color and, like
Bermuda grass, has limited shade tolerance. Both 'Prairie' and '609' are available in sod, sprigs or plugs.
Watch for improved varieties to enter the market such as the new 'Stampede' semi-dwarf buffalo grass.
          Bermuda grass is the most commonly used drought tolerant grass in Texas. It is available as seed
or sod and requires full sun. Look for hybrid species such as 'Tifway' and "Tifdwarf", that are available in
sod, sprigs and plugs. The hybrids are not as drought tolerant as seeded common Bermuda grass.
          Zoysia grass is a slow growing grass for full sun to partial shade. It is available in sod. Look for
'Emerald' or 'Meyer' varieties, or the new 'El Toro' or 'ZoyBoy' selections. Zoysia grasses are less drought
tolerant than buffalo or Bermuda grasses.
          St. Augustine grass is best for use in shady spots. It is available as sod or plugs. When grown in
full sun, it has the highest water need of the grasses listed here.

TIP
         What makes a turf more drought tolerant? In general, the deeper a grass's roots, the more
drought tolerant it will be as it seeks for moisture in deeper levels of the soil. Typically, lawns are kept
from reaching their potential root depth due to poor irrigation and mowing practices. Watering less
frequently but thoroughly promotes deeper rooting and improves drought tolerance.

                  Grass                                Root Depth

                  Buffalo                              5 - 7 feet
                  Bermuda                              to 5 feet
                  Zoysia                               to 5 feet
                  St. Augustine                        8 - 18 inches

         Review Xeriscape Principle No. 7 where proper maintenance of lawns is features.

                           Principle #4 Points Covered

                  ü Limit lawn areas to reduce water use and maintenance
                  ü Consider drought tolerant turf
                  ü Use landscape alternatives to reduce water use, i.e., shrubs, perennials and ground
                    cover

#5       EFFICIENT IRRIGATION

When to Water
         Landscape irrigation should only be used to supplement rainfall when necessary to promote plant
health and vigor. If water conservation is your goal, then you may want to rethink your watering policy.
You may decide to do little or no supplemental watering after your Xeriscape landscape has become
established. Once established, plants can survive on natural rainfall except during a drought. The best
time to water plants is when it is needed. Learn to recognize the signals of a thirsty landscape. Shrubs
will begin to droop and grass will lie flat and leave footprint impressions. Irrigation should be scheduled
during the coolest, calmest part of the day to avoid loss through evaporation and wind drift. Over
watering and nighttime watering may promote problems such as brown patch on St. Augustine lawns or
mildew on plants. The early morning hours just before and after dawn are best. Avoid watering between
10 a.m. and 6 p.m.

How to Water
          Shallow daily watering can harm plants. Water deeply and infrequently. Deep, more drought
tolerant root systems will develop from a weekly deep soaking. Wet the soil to a depth of five or six
inches, and allow it to dry out between wateriness. Dig down deep to check soil measure.

How Much to Water
         During the growing season, traditional landscapes may use as much as one inch or more of water
per week. It will vary depending on soil, sun, weather, plant type and conditions. Several short, repeated
watering cycles may be necessary to avoid runoff on hills or on clay soils. Watering can taper off when
autumn arrives and gradually increase during spring. Plants don't need as much water in the winter, but
will benefit from occasional irrigation if there is no rainfall.

Irrigation Equipment
         The most efficient hose-end sprinklers throw large drops of water, not a mist, close to the ground.
Avoid sprinklers that throw water high into the air before it gets to the plant. Soaker hoses are
inexpensive, easy to install and ideal for planting beds. Install the hose on top of the soil, underneath the
mulch. For underground sprinkler systems, low-volume low-angle spray heads, pressure compensating
devices and bubblers can increase efficiency.

Drip Irrigation
         Drip irrigation is the most efficient method of watering trees and shrubs. It applies water slowly
to the soil directly surrounding the plant's roots. With proper scheduling, drip irrigation maintains a
constant level of the soil's moisture, leading to healthier plants. Drip irrigation gives a precise amount of
water to specific plants at a slow rate and controls water runoff. By contrast, pop-up spray systems can
waste water with too much spray or when spray evaporates before reaching the plants. Drip irrigation
may save up to 60% of the water required by other methods of irrigation for home gardens and residential
landscapes.
         Drip irrigation eliminates plant stress and drought shock by applying water directly to the plant
root zone where the water is readily absorbed and used. Since less surface is watered, weed growth is
limited. Plant disease and fungus associated with spraying water onto foliage is minimized due to apply
the water at the soil level.

         Drip irrigation systems are simple to install and modify. System components include emitters
that provide an outlet for the water. The better types are self-flushing and compensate for high pressure.
Drip systems are polyethylene tubing (black, flexible material) anchored at the soil surface and covered
with a layer of mulch. Installation is less labor intensive since less trenching for underground piping is
required. Some tubing can be purchased with emitters installed at certain intervals, while other types of
tubing allow customization, installing emitters only where needed. Compression fittings are most
commonly used for drip irrigation; no gluing or priming is required. Drip irrigation systems can be
attached to a garden spigot or a permanent underground irrigation system. Although drip irrigation is not
well adapted to turf areas, it will efficiently water gardens, shrubs, groundcover, trees and other
landscaping.
         A backflow prevention device is required for all irrigation systems permanently connected to a
drinking water supply line. Backflow prevention devices prevent potential hazardous contamination of
the drinking water supply, thus protecting your own drinking water.

Drip Irrigation Ordinance
In June 1997, Corpus Christi's Plumbing Code was amended to require all new irrigation systems
to use drip emitters or soaker type hoses instead of spray heads in right-of-way areas located between the
sidewalk and curb or within narrow strips of vegetation or median.

Automatic Timers
         For any outdoor faucet, a water time can be installed to monitor an irrigation system. Barry
operated timers turn the sprinkler on and off automatically. Larger systems are best served with electronic
controllers that feature 14 or 15 day calendars, independent zone programming and multi-cycling. Rain
shut-off devices are inexpensive and will prevent unnecessary irrigation during rainy weather. Soil
moisture sensors will prevent watering when the soil moisture level is adequate.

Irrigation Design
         The type of irrigation equipment used depends on the design, layout and type of landscape. A
simple garden hose and sprinkler may be the best way to water some landscapes. Drip or underground
pop-up systems can be more appropriate for other types of landscapes.
         Watering can be made easier by grouping or zoning plants with similar water needs. The highest
water use zone should be located near the house. The lowest water use zone, such as a wildflower patch,
might be at the far edges of a lot. Each zone can be watered according to its needs. Long narrow areas of
grass are best watered with soaker hoses or drip emitters.

Irrigation Installation
         In Texas, irrigation installers and designers are tested and licensed by the state. Ask for a
licensed irrigator when seeking professional help. Ask for references and be sure to check them. Insist on
a one-year warranty on the system including parts and labor.

Test Your Sprinkler
         To set up a schedule of deep watering every five to seven days, first find out how much water the
sprinkler applies.

A.      Place 3 to 5 empty tuna cans at different distances from the sprinkler.

B.      Run the sprinkler for 30 minutes.

C.      Add the inches of water in all cans and divide the total inches by the number of cans to obtain an
        average.

D.
                           Total water (inches) collected in
                                         cans
               ______"                                                       __________ "
                                                                =         Average amount of water
                                                                          (inches) applied to lawn
                             Divided by
                            Total Number of cans used to
                                    collect water
               ______"


E.

               ______"     Average water applied to            X2 =         ___________ "
                                    lawn                                   Water (inches) applied
                                                                           to lawn in one hour *
* Use this figure to determine how long to water to get one inch per watering. Subtract the
        amount of rainfall received during the week from the amount of irrigation.

Equipment Maintenance
       Routine maintenance of irrigation equipment should be scheduled at least twice a year.
Underground leak can be detected and verified by examining the water meter when water is not in use.

Principle #5 Points Covered

ü Once established, Xeriscape gardens can usually survive on natural rainfall, except in times of
  drought.
ü Plants and lawns benefit from deep and infrequent watering.
ü Check soil moisture before watering
ü Traditional landscapes may require one inch or more of water during warm seasons
ü Use efficient hose-end sprinklers that spray large drops of water
ü Use soaker hoses for planting beds and narrow turf areas
ü Observe City ordinance that requires newly installed irrigation systems to use drip emitters or soaker
  hoses between sidewalk and curb or within narrow strips of median
ü Test automatic sprinkler systems for efficiency
ü Seek professional help from licensed irrigation installers/designers

#6      USE OF MULCHES

         The use of mulches is essential to reduce weed growth, control soil water loss and erosion and
help to moderate soil temperatures. It will also give your garden a finished look. When plants are left
uncovered, summer soil temperatures can be as high as 90 degrees, causing the roots to die. To protect
your plants, and trees, apply a three to four inch layer of mulch; however, avoid under mulching or over
mulching. Under mulching may not control weed growth, while over mulching may reduce the
penetration of oxygen and water to the soil. While profession landscapers prefer to use organic mulches,
you can choose from organic or inorganic mulches shown below.

      Organic Mulches *                                  Inorganic Mulches
      Low Heat Radiation                Medium Heat Radiation           High Heat Radiation
Pine Bank Bark                      Lava Rock - Red/Gray                Nueces River Rock
Shredded Cypress Bark                                                   Crushed Limestone
Local Landfill Mulch                                                    Granite Gravel
Pine Needles                                                            Pea Gravel
Shredded Landscape Clippings
* Keep in mind that organic mulches decompose over a period of time and need to be reapplied.

        Inorganic mulches, such as gravel or crushed stone, should be used in limited, unplanted areas.
Be aware that stone mulches can increase heat retention and reflect heat and sun flare, increasing your
home's energy costs.

Principle #6 Points Covered

ü Apply mulch to moderate the soil's temperature and water loss, and to control erosion and weed
  growth
ü Apply 3 to 4 inches of organic mulch around trees and planting beds
ü Inorganic (stone) mulches reflect more heat resulting in higher energy costs


#7      APPROPRIATE MAINTENANCE
Maintenance of gardens can be broken into five tasks: weeding, feeding, pruning (including
mowing), pest control and watering. While these tasks are interrelated, you'll have less weeding and
pruning if you keep watering to a minimum.

Pruning and Mowing
           The growth of plant and grass can be vigorously stimulated with frequent pruning and mowing.
It is best to know the plant's mature size before it is planted. When pruning is essential, it should be done
in later winter or early spring before new leaves appear. The use of shorter-growing grasses can reduce
maintenance and watering. While traditional South Texas lawns are accustomed to being manicured,
alternative sods require less water and maintenance.
           Mowing is one of the most time-consuming maintenance tasks. Proper mowing heights can help
use less water. Grass cut too short is stressed and dries out quickly. Instead, mow the grass when it is
about 1/3 higher than the recommended mowing height. Grass clippings can be left where they fall to
recycle nutrients into the soil. If clippings are collected, don't put them out with the trash. Instead,
compost the clippings along with other organic waste to create soil amendments or mulch.

Recommended Mowing Heights
Bermuda             1 inch                              St. Augustine               3 inches
Buffalo Grass       2 inches                            Zoysia                      1 inch

Weed and Pest Control
           The use of herbicides and pesticides needs to be balanced with both human health and
environmental concerns. The use of chemical products in a garden should be avoided or used sparingly.
The use of chemical products can result in pollution runoff draining into nearby storm drains that
eventually lead to our lakes, bays and ocean. Of the hundreds of thousands of insects that exist in this
area, no more than 5% of them ever reach a problem level and many are essential for pollination. Low
levels of a pest aren't necessarily detrimental to plants. Chemical use at the first site of a few bugs risks
upsetting the balance of nature by also killing off beneficial predators. Treat only if damage reaches a
critical level.
           Biological pest controls such as lady-bugs, lacewings, praying mantids and Bacillus thuringiensis
and horticultural controls, such as mulching for weed control in landscaped areas, are highly
recommended over chemical applications, especially along sensitive waterways. Before chemical
applications are considered, organic pest control such as insecticidal soaps and manual weed pulling
should be used.

Fertilizers
          Many native plants do not need fertilizer since they are adapted to natural soil conditions. Other
plants, such as turf grass, may need additional nutrients for healthy growth. Leaving lawn clippings on
the grass instead of bagging, will enrich the soil and reduce the need for fertilizer.
          If necessary, fertilize grass once in spring after the second or third mowing and again in early
fall. Excessive fertilizer can damage plants, waste money and increase maintenance. Use a slow-release
nitrogen encapsulated fertilizer to avoid fertilizer "burn," and do not fertilize during hot weather.
Contrary to popular belief, DO NOT fertilize immediately before rain is expected. A heavy rain will
wash away the valuable nutrients before they reach the soil level. Water thoroughly after applying
fertilizer, being careful not to let the fertilizer and water run off your yard. Too much fertilizer can harm
the environment when the nutrients are washed into storm drains, resulting in possible algae blooms and
massive fish kills in area waterways.

Principle #7 Points Covered
ü Prune shrubs and trees during late winter or early spring before new growth occurs
ü Mow turf at proper height
ü Avoid bagging grass clippings
ü Avoid or limit the use of herbicides and pesticides
ü Consider organic pest control and manual weed pulling
ü Fertilize grass once in spring and again in early fall
ü Do not fertilize before rain is expected

NEW CONSTRUCTION

          Protect existing trees on a construction site to add value and prevent additional landscaping costs.
A mature landscape takes many years to establish. Build tree protection fences under the outermost
branches. Never allow storage of heavy equipment and machinery in these areas, as it will compact the
soil and damage tree roots. Never dump paints or solvents near trees.
          The topsoil is a valuable resource to preserve and protect. If topsoil is stripped during
construction, stockpile it for reuse on the site. If topsoil must be imported, be use it is of high quality and
appropriate for the intended use. Never allow bare topsoil to wash off the site, which causes storm drain
lines to clog, often causing street flooding. After construction, cover all exposed soil with sod, jute
netting, landscaping fabric and/or mulch. In Corpus Christi, new construction sites of one-fourth acre or
more are required to place erosion control devices to prevent soil loss.
          Increased storm water runoff is a problem in urban areas, as impervious surfaces do not allow
rainfall to soak into the ground. These impervious surfaces include roofs, driveways, and sidewalks.
Materials that may replace traditional paved driveways, parking areas, patios and walks include brick on
sand and interlocking pavers. The impact of runoff can be reduced and the water can be infiltrate the soil
with the use of grass drainage swales channeled into planting beds, vegetative buffers around paved areas
and on-site detention and retention ponds. A drainage swale is a shallow depression or channel (not a
ditch) designed to move water across a site. Some cities require on-site detention and retention ponds for
commercial structures. These ponds allow storm water to filtrate naturally into the soil and also reduce
the amount of sediment entering the storm water drainage system, thus reducing non-point source
pollution.

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Xeriscape To Go: Plan Your Water Wise Landscape - Texas

  • 1. Xeriscape-To-Go Xeriscape (Zer'-i-skap) Plan Your Water Wise Landscape While Conserving Our Natural Resources More people are taking advantage of a water-saving concept that improves our home landscape environment. The concept is Xeriscape, a new and exciting idea that helps homeowners everywhere blend traditional style gardening with the desire to save water. By going Xeriscape, your outdoor landscape environment can echo the natural world of our region, plus you reap the benefits of saving water, time and money and reducing maintenance. Your Xeriscape garden will use less chemical fertilizer and pesticides, so the whole environment benefits with fewer chemicals flowing to our precious bay. And if you're not totally convinced, Texas studies show that Xeriscape landscapes can use an average of 40% less water than traditional landscapes. For residential homes, this could mean a substantial amount of summer lawn water savings. With news like that, everyone will be saying, "We're going Xeriscape"! Seven principles of Xeriscape 1. Planning and Designing 2. Soil Analysis 3. Appropriate Plant Selection 4. Practical Turf Areas 5. Efficient Irrigation 6. Use of Mulches 7. Appropriate Maintenance GOOD THINGS HAPPE IN XERISCAPE GARDEN Xeriscape garden . . . ♦ Offer an attractive, green landscape with hundreds of colorful plants to choose from. Remember, Xeriscape is not just cactus and rocks. ♦ May require less maintenance, mowing, fertilizers, pesticides and other yard work. ♦ Save energy when trees and shrubs are properly located for lower cooling and heating bills ♦ Work with Mother Nature instead of against it. ♦ Reduce the demand on our limited water supplies, which extends the life of municipal water and wastewater treatment facilities. ♦ Lessen the impact of droughts. ♦ Reduce pollution run-off as fertilizers and pesticides are avoided or used sparingly. #1 PLANNING AND DESIGNING A GARDENER'S DREAM
  • 2. A water-efficient landscape begins with a well-planning landscape design. This concept can be applied if you are starting from scratch or simply renovating residential or commercial property. The amount of time you invest in planning your project will result in a great deal of satisfaction, plus provide excellent curb appeal and improved property value. You may choose to do-it-yourself, or seek help from professional landscape architects, designers or nurserymen. We suggest you set objectives and a budget and envision the appearance, function, maintenance and water requirements of your garden. Study Your Site Start with a scaled drawing or plot plan of the lot or site. Sketch all physical objects on the property such as house/building, decks, fence, patios, driveways, trees, overhead utility lines, etc. You can create your own plot plan using 24" by 36" transparent tracing paper with grid lines of eight by eight squares per inch. Select a scale such as 1/8 inch = 1 foot (1 small square equal 1 foot). Identify the soil type and any possible drainage problems as well as availability to water to the site. Place a north arrow on your drawing to allow you to consider the amount of sun, shade, and wind direction and view of the garden. Design of floor plans, foundations and other features should reflect the site topography and existing vegetation. In new construction, split-level plans, terraces, and decks can help integrate structures into the site and keep the natural contour of the land. Buildings and homes on an east-west axis should take advantage of existing trees for shade to reduce energy demands for cooling. Envision Your Garden Every landscaper's needs vary. Homeowners will children and pets may prefer a large play area. Those who prefer to entertain may desire decks or pools, while the avid gardener may want a space for a year-around vegetable garden. To successfully plan your garden, review your current and future needs. You may desire to increase your privacy, to improve a backyard corner or simply wish to cover bare grass areas. Planning your garden can result in hours of fun. Determine the amount of time and money you wish to invest and realize that your garden can be implemented gradually over several years. Your plan will be successful if you implement each Xeriscape principle. As a reminder, installing or remodeling a garden can be hard work. We suggest getting help from family or friends. If your budget allows it, find professional help. Help from Professionals A complexity of landscape issues as well as safety and environmental considerations may require professional assistance. Consider hiring professionals to design, install and maintain landscape and irrigation systems. Landscape architects and designers can assist with site layout and landscape design. Licensed irrigators can design and install irrigation systems. Professional landscape contractors and nurseries can help your ideas become reality. Seek reputable landscape maintenance companies to protect your investment. Ask companies for references, samples of their work, and proof of professional certification or license. Choose Plants for Master Plan In designing your garden, choose plants that conform to the goals of the master plan. Be sure that plant selections are drought tolerant and well adapted to soil and sun conditions of the site. Group plants with similar water and sunlight needs. Some areas of the landscape may require low to moderate to full irrigation. Here are some suggestions to organize your landscape watering needs. Full irrigation areas are usually grass areas that require more water. Limit these areas to those that get a lot of use or are highly visible. Moderate irrigation areas include established plant and shrub beds that require little watering as they can usually survive from natural rainfall. Those beds located around the perimeter of the home benefit from roof runoff.
  • 3. Low irrigation areas are often border areas containing low or moderate water-demanding plants. Shrubs and trees are best served by using drip irrigation so the plant's roots receive water directly. Areas in the garden where supplemental water is unavailable also benefit from drip systems. Native and low-water use plants offer beautiful and colorful selections. Attractive perennials that provide year-around color and interest can replace costly annual plants. Wildflower plants, native grasses, and paved patios and walkways are popular and serve as good alternatives to traditional lawns. Consider the proper placement of trees and other plants for shade, screening and defining outdoor space. Cool Shadings Standing under a tree on a hot day works just like wearing a straw hat to block out the sun's rays. Trees provide impressive energy savings when properly located to shade homes/buildings and to create wind breaks during winter months. Mark your master plan with any existing trees and power lines and allow for growth. Define if additional trees and power lines and allow for growth. Decide if additional trees are needed on your plan. Identify the desired species, based on maximum height, branch spread and maintenance required. Trees also clean the air by removing dust and carbon dioxide that may contribute to global warming. Trees not only improve property values, but also make the community greener. They provide cover, protection for small animals and nesting sites and food for birds. Trees for Energy Planting trees on the west and southwest side of homes and buildings can create enough shade to lower roof and wall temperatures by up to 20 degrees. Shading an outside air-conditioning unit can help save up to 10% on summer cooling bills. Leave at least three feet around the unit to allow for air flow and service access. A deciduous tree will create shade in the summer and allow sunlight through open branches for warmth and light in the winter. Principle #1 Points Covered ü Start by envisioning the garden's appearance, function, maintenance level and water requirements ü Decide how much money you want to spend. Your project may be completed through a one-time investment or phased over several years ü Choose to read, research and do-it-yourself or to hire a professional ü Sketch a plan identifying existing hardscape surfaces on property along with existing plants, trees, driveways, power lines, etc ü Study your site's drainage problems, availability of water and soil type ü Decide how you want to use your yard (play areas, deck, vegetable gardens, compost bind, fence screen or wind breaks) ü Take advantage of tree shade for energy savings #2 SOIL ANALYSIS AND IMPROVEMENT While soil analysis and improvement is the second principle of Xeriscape landscaping, professionals believe that it is one of the most essential for any garden's success. Soil amendments help to improve the physical structure of the soil either by loosening tightly compacted clay soil or by adding structure to structureless sandy soil. Test the Soil Soil types vary from site to site and sometimes within a site. South Texas soils range from clay to sandy loam to sand. A soil analysis based on random sampling provides information that allows proper selection of plants, soil amendments and fertilizers. Collect the soil sample and send it to a soil-testing laboratory to determine the nutrient content, soil pH and other information. Contact the Texas Agricultural Extension Service - Nueces County office in Robstown at 361/767-5223 to receive a free
  • 4. sample bag and instructions. For a nominal fee, your soil sample can be mailed to the Texas Agricultural Extension Service Soil Laboratory in College Station for analysis. Improve the Soil with Amendments Most soil will benefit from adding organic matter. Organic matter includes such items as peat moss, processed compost, composted cotton burr or manure. Soil amendments enhance the health and growing capability of the soil by improving water drainage, moisture penetration and water holding capacity. Compost, either made at home or purchased commercially is the best organic fertilizer available. Sample Soil Recipe Here's a good recipe for amending the soil for a 100 square foot area. Cover the area and then thoroughly mix or till in the amendments to a depth of 10 to 12 inches. 4 inches of organic matter such as peat moss or compost 4 pounds of Ironite or equivalent product 25 pounds of composted manure If soil has high clay content, add 2 inches of coarse sand If soil has high sand content, add 2 inches of a high clay content soil Principle #2 Points Covered ü Test the soil to determine the type of soil amendments needed to support healthy plants and conserve moisture ü Soil testing is available for a nominal fee by the Texas Agricultural Extension Service ü Improve the soil with amendments to change the physical character of the soil by loosening tight compact clay soil or by creating structure in sandy soil ü Follow the sample soil recipe by adding 4 inches of organic matter and mix to a depth of 10 to 12 inches. #3 APPROPRIATE PLANT SELECTION What and Where to Plant Before planting, select and group you trees and shrubs based on their watering needs (i.e., low, moderate and high), desired effect, color, texture and mature size. Keep native plants in mind for their hardiness and drought tolerance. Give trees and shrubs plenty of room to grow to avoid rubbing against power lines or intruding into the underground wastewater system which can result in the invasion of roots to the wastewater drain lines. Identify plants on the master plant. How to Plant Plant soon after purchase to avoid unnecessary transplant shock. Dig planting holes two to three times the width of the original container. The hole should be the same depth as the rootball. Place the plant in the hole so the top of the root ball is even with the natural soil grade or slightly higher. For example, an oak tree would adapt to its location better if it is placed 3" higher than the soil grade as compared to being planted 1/4" too low. Backfill the hole with a good soil mixture. Compress the filled mixture several times during backfilling to prevent air pockets. Water thoroughly and deeply after planting; cover the rootball and adjacent soil with a thick layer of organic mulch. Principle #3 Points Covered ü Group plant based on their watering needs (low, moderate, high) ü Give plants room to grow above and below ground ü Place plants in holes two to three times the size of original container and at proper depth ü Place plants in the ground while they are still fresh to avoid transplant shock
  • 5. ü Backfill with good soil mixture ü Compress soil to prevent air pockets ü Water plants deeply after planting ü Place thick layer of organic mulch around plants and trees TREE PLANTING AND MAINTENANCE The ideal time for planting trees in Texas is November through March. Trees are dormant during that period and the shock of transplanting is lower. Palms, however, are best planted in the heat of the summer during their growing season. Give trees adequate room to grow, both above ground and below. For energy conservation and shade purposes, plant deciduous trees on the southeast, southwest and west sides of the house or building. A tree's survival depends on deep watering at planting time and about once a week during summer, especially during the first year. Apply water in the root zone area below the branches, not right at the trunk. After the first or second year, a tree should be able to survive on natural rainfall unless there is a drought. Fertilize with a balanced fertilizer (10-10-10) to give trees an extra boost during the early spring. Don't fertilize until new spring leaves are fully opened. #4 PRACTICAL TURF AREAS Grass requires or water and maintenance than any other part of the landscape. Mowing, fertilizing, and watering a lawn can take many hours of work each week. Consider the following guidelines for Xeriscape lawns. Lawn Size and Location Limit lawn areas to an appropriate and practical size to decrease water and maintenance costs. Lawn areas are desirable for recreational sports and some pets. However, many lawns that exist primarily for visual beauty could be replaced with other attractive alternatives. Landscape Alternatives There are many attractive alternatives to planting traditional grass areas. Consider planting beds such as shrubs, perennials and ground covers that use less water and are able to maintain a green appearance in a landscape. Mulch beds can be used in limited areas such as around driveways, pet and service areas or paths to discourage weed growth and reduce evaporation and erosion. Additionally, decks, patios and walkways expand outdoor living areas and require less maintenance than lawns, and watering a lawn can take many hours of work each week. Consider the following guidelines for Xeriscape lawns. Lawn Size and Location Limit lawn areas to an appropriate and practical size to decrease water and maintenance costs. Lawn areas are desirable for recreational sports and some pets. However, many lawns that exist primarily for visual beauty could be replaced with other attractive alternatives. Landscape Alternatives There are many attractive alternatives to planting traditional grass areas. Consider planting beds such as shrubs, perennials and ground covers that use less water and are able to maintain a green appearance in a landscape. Mulch beds can be used in limited areas such as around driveways, pet and service areas or paths to discourage weed growth and reduce evaporation and erosion. Additionally, decks, patios and walkways expand outdoor living areas and require less maintenance than lawns. Wildflowers and native grasses make excellent lawn substitutes in large open areas, natural style landscapes and low use areas. Choose the Best Grass
  • 6. Grasses, which are drought tolerant, become dormant and turn brown when not watered. Drought tolerant lawns may not be green during a drought, but will survive and turn green after the next rainfall or watering. You should consider the amount of sunlight and the intended use of the grass before choosing one of the four grasses listed on page 17. They are ranked from most drought tolerant to the least drought tolerant. Warm Season Grasses Buffalo grass is a native prairie grass that reaches a maximum height of six to twelve inches and can be left to grow naturally without mowing. Buffalo grass requires minimal irrigation, fertilization and pesticides resulting in lower maintenance costs. Buffalo grass requires a minimum of six hours of sun per day and may require one to two years to establish from seed. 'Prairie' buffalo grass variety is a dense, fine- textured grass with low growth and excellent cold, heat and drought tolerance. The '609' buffalo grass variety has the same characteristics as 'Prairie," but it maintains a darker blue-green color and, like Bermuda grass, has limited shade tolerance. Both 'Prairie' and '609' are available in sod, sprigs or plugs. Watch for improved varieties to enter the market such as the new 'Stampede' semi-dwarf buffalo grass. Bermuda grass is the most commonly used drought tolerant grass in Texas. It is available as seed or sod and requires full sun. Look for hybrid species such as 'Tifway' and "Tifdwarf", that are available in sod, sprigs and plugs. The hybrids are not as drought tolerant as seeded common Bermuda grass. Zoysia grass is a slow growing grass for full sun to partial shade. It is available in sod. Look for 'Emerald' or 'Meyer' varieties, or the new 'El Toro' or 'ZoyBoy' selections. Zoysia grasses are less drought tolerant than buffalo or Bermuda grasses. St. Augustine grass is best for use in shady spots. It is available as sod or plugs. When grown in full sun, it has the highest water need of the grasses listed here. TIP What makes a turf more drought tolerant? In general, the deeper a grass's roots, the more drought tolerant it will be as it seeks for moisture in deeper levels of the soil. Typically, lawns are kept from reaching their potential root depth due to poor irrigation and mowing practices. Watering less frequently but thoroughly promotes deeper rooting and improves drought tolerance. Grass Root Depth Buffalo 5 - 7 feet Bermuda to 5 feet Zoysia to 5 feet St. Augustine 8 - 18 inches Review Xeriscape Principle No. 7 where proper maintenance of lawns is features. Principle #4 Points Covered ü Limit lawn areas to reduce water use and maintenance ü Consider drought tolerant turf ü Use landscape alternatives to reduce water use, i.e., shrubs, perennials and ground cover #5 EFFICIENT IRRIGATION When to Water Landscape irrigation should only be used to supplement rainfall when necessary to promote plant health and vigor. If water conservation is your goal, then you may want to rethink your watering policy. You may decide to do little or no supplemental watering after your Xeriscape landscape has become established. Once established, plants can survive on natural rainfall except during a drought. The best time to water plants is when it is needed. Learn to recognize the signals of a thirsty landscape. Shrubs
  • 7. will begin to droop and grass will lie flat and leave footprint impressions. Irrigation should be scheduled during the coolest, calmest part of the day to avoid loss through evaporation and wind drift. Over watering and nighttime watering may promote problems such as brown patch on St. Augustine lawns or mildew on plants. The early morning hours just before and after dawn are best. Avoid watering between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. How to Water Shallow daily watering can harm plants. Water deeply and infrequently. Deep, more drought tolerant root systems will develop from a weekly deep soaking. Wet the soil to a depth of five or six inches, and allow it to dry out between wateriness. Dig down deep to check soil measure. How Much to Water During the growing season, traditional landscapes may use as much as one inch or more of water per week. It will vary depending on soil, sun, weather, plant type and conditions. Several short, repeated watering cycles may be necessary to avoid runoff on hills or on clay soils. Watering can taper off when autumn arrives and gradually increase during spring. Plants don't need as much water in the winter, but will benefit from occasional irrigation if there is no rainfall. Irrigation Equipment The most efficient hose-end sprinklers throw large drops of water, not a mist, close to the ground. Avoid sprinklers that throw water high into the air before it gets to the plant. Soaker hoses are inexpensive, easy to install and ideal for planting beds. Install the hose on top of the soil, underneath the mulch. For underground sprinkler systems, low-volume low-angle spray heads, pressure compensating devices and bubblers can increase efficiency. Drip Irrigation Drip irrigation is the most efficient method of watering trees and shrubs. It applies water slowly to the soil directly surrounding the plant's roots. With proper scheduling, drip irrigation maintains a constant level of the soil's moisture, leading to healthier plants. Drip irrigation gives a precise amount of water to specific plants at a slow rate and controls water runoff. By contrast, pop-up spray systems can waste water with too much spray or when spray evaporates before reaching the plants. Drip irrigation may save up to 60% of the water required by other methods of irrigation for home gardens and residential landscapes. Drip irrigation eliminates plant stress and drought shock by applying water directly to the plant root zone where the water is readily absorbed and used. Since less surface is watered, weed growth is limited. Plant disease and fungus associated with spraying water onto foliage is minimized due to apply the water at the soil level. Drip irrigation systems are simple to install and modify. System components include emitters that provide an outlet for the water. The better types are self-flushing and compensate for high pressure. Drip systems are polyethylene tubing (black, flexible material) anchored at the soil surface and covered with a layer of mulch. Installation is less labor intensive since less trenching for underground piping is required. Some tubing can be purchased with emitters installed at certain intervals, while other types of tubing allow customization, installing emitters only where needed. Compression fittings are most commonly used for drip irrigation; no gluing or priming is required. Drip irrigation systems can be attached to a garden spigot or a permanent underground irrigation system. Although drip irrigation is not well adapted to turf areas, it will efficiently water gardens, shrubs, groundcover, trees and other landscaping. A backflow prevention device is required for all irrigation systems permanently connected to a drinking water supply line. Backflow prevention devices prevent potential hazardous contamination of the drinking water supply, thus protecting your own drinking water. Drip Irrigation Ordinance
  • 8. In June 1997, Corpus Christi's Plumbing Code was amended to require all new irrigation systems to use drip emitters or soaker type hoses instead of spray heads in right-of-way areas located between the sidewalk and curb or within narrow strips of vegetation or median. Automatic Timers For any outdoor faucet, a water time can be installed to monitor an irrigation system. Barry operated timers turn the sprinkler on and off automatically. Larger systems are best served with electronic controllers that feature 14 or 15 day calendars, independent zone programming and multi-cycling. Rain shut-off devices are inexpensive and will prevent unnecessary irrigation during rainy weather. Soil moisture sensors will prevent watering when the soil moisture level is adequate. Irrigation Design The type of irrigation equipment used depends on the design, layout and type of landscape. A simple garden hose and sprinkler may be the best way to water some landscapes. Drip or underground pop-up systems can be more appropriate for other types of landscapes. Watering can be made easier by grouping or zoning plants with similar water needs. The highest water use zone should be located near the house. The lowest water use zone, such as a wildflower patch, might be at the far edges of a lot. Each zone can be watered according to its needs. Long narrow areas of grass are best watered with soaker hoses or drip emitters. Irrigation Installation In Texas, irrigation installers and designers are tested and licensed by the state. Ask for a licensed irrigator when seeking professional help. Ask for references and be sure to check them. Insist on a one-year warranty on the system including parts and labor. Test Your Sprinkler To set up a schedule of deep watering every five to seven days, first find out how much water the sprinkler applies. A. Place 3 to 5 empty tuna cans at different distances from the sprinkler. B. Run the sprinkler for 30 minutes. C. Add the inches of water in all cans and divide the total inches by the number of cans to obtain an average. D. Total water (inches) collected in cans ______" __________ " = Average amount of water (inches) applied to lawn Divided by Total Number of cans used to collect water ______" E. ______" Average water applied to X2 = ___________ " lawn Water (inches) applied to lawn in one hour *
  • 9. * Use this figure to determine how long to water to get one inch per watering. Subtract the amount of rainfall received during the week from the amount of irrigation. Equipment Maintenance Routine maintenance of irrigation equipment should be scheduled at least twice a year. Underground leak can be detected and verified by examining the water meter when water is not in use. Principle #5 Points Covered ü Once established, Xeriscape gardens can usually survive on natural rainfall, except in times of drought. ü Plants and lawns benefit from deep and infrequent watering. ü Check soil moisture before watering ü Traditional landscapes may require one inch or more of water during warm seasons ü Use efficient hose-end sprinklers that spray large drops of water ü Use soaker hoses for planting beds and narrow turf areas ü Observe City ordinance that requires newly installed irrigation systems to use drip emitters or soaker hoses between sidewalk and curb or within narrow strips of median ü Test automatic sprinkler systems for efficiency ü Seek professional help from licensed irrigation installers/designers #6 USE OF MULCHES The use of mulches is essential to reduce weed growth, control soil water loss and erosion and help to moderate soil temperatures. It will also give your garden a finished look. When plants are left uncovered, summer soil temperatures can be as high as 90 degrees, causing the roots to die. To protect your plants, and trees, apply a three to four inch layer of mulch; however, avoid under mulching or over mulching. Under mulching may not control weed growth, while over mulching may reduce the penetration of oxygen and water to the soil. While profession landscapers prefer to use organic mulches, you can choose from organic or inorganic mulches shown below. Organic Mulches * Inorganic Mulches Low Heat Radiation Medium Heat Radiation High Heat Radiation Pine Bank Bark Lava Rock - Red/Gray Nueces River Rock Shredded Cypress Bark Crushed Limestone Local Landfill Mulch Granite Gravel Pine Needles Pea Gravel Shredded Landscape Clippings * Keep in mind that organic mulches decompose over a period of time and need to be reapplied. Inorganic mulches, such as gravel or crushed stone, should be used in limited, unplanted areas. Be aware that stone mulches can increase heat retention and reflect heat and sun flare, increasing your home's energy costs. Principle #6 Points Covered ü Apply mulch to moderate the soil's temperature and water loss, and to control erosion and weed growth ü Apply 3 to 4 inches of organic mulch around trees and planting beds ü Inorganic (stone) mulches reflect more heat resulting in higher energy costs #7 APPROPRIATE MAINTENANCE
  • 10. Maintenance of gardens can be broken into five tasks: weeding, feeding, pruning (including mowing), pest control and watering. While these tasks are interrelated, you'll have less weeding and pruning if you keep watering to a minimum. Pruning and Mowing The growth of plant and grass can be vigorously stimulated with frequent pruning and mowing. It is best to know the plant's mature size before it is planted. When pruning is essential, it should be done in later winter or early spring before new leaves appear. The use of shorter-growing grasses can reduce maintenance and watering. While traditional South Texas lawns are accustomed to being manicured, alternative sods require less water and maintenance. Mowing is one of the most time-consuming maintenance tasks. Proper mowing heights can help use less water. Grass cut too short is stressed and dries out quickly. Instead, mow the grass when it is about 1/3 higher than the recommended mowing height. Grass clippings can be left where they fall to recycle nutrients into the soil. If clippings are collected, don't put them out with the trash. Instead, compost the clippings along with other organic waste to create soil amendments or mulch. Recommended Mowing Heights Bermuda 1 inch St. Augustine 3 inches Buffalo Grass 2 inches Zoysia 1 inch Weed and Pest Control The use of herbicides and pesticides needs to be balanced with both human health and environmental concerns. The use of chemical products in a garden should be avoided or used sparingly. The use of chemical products can result in pollution runoff draining into nearby storm drains that eventually lead to our lakes, bays and ocean. Of the hundreds of thousands of insects that exist in this area, no more than 5% of them ever reach a problem level and many are essential for pollination. Low levels of a pest aren't necessarily detrimental to plants. Chemical use at the first site of a few bugs risks upsetting the balance of nature by also killing off beneficial predators. Treat only if damage reaches a critical level. Biological pest controls such as lady-bugs, lacewings, praying mantids and Bacillus thuringiensis and horticultural controls, such as mulching for weed control in landscaped areas, are highly recommended over chemical applications, especially along sensitive waterways. Before chemical applications are considered, organic pest control such as insecticidal soaps and manual weed pulling should be used. Fertilizers Many native plants do not need fertilizer since they are adapted to natural soil conditions. Other plants, such as turf grass, may need additional nutrients for healthy growth. Leaving lawn clippings on the grass instead of bagging, will enrich the soil and reduce the need for fertilizer. If necessary, fertilize grass once in spring after the second or third mowing and again in early fall. Excessive fertilizer can damage plants, waste money and increase maintenance. Use a slow-release nitrogen encapsulated fertilizer to avoid fertilizer "burn," and do not fertilize during hot weather. Contrary to popular belief, DO NOT fertilize immediately before rain is expected. A heavy rain will wash away the valuable nutrients before they reach the soil level. Water thoroughly after applying fertilizer, being careful not to let the fertilizer and water run off your yard. Too much fertilizer can harm the environment when the nutrients are washed into storm drains, resulting in possible algae blooms and massive fish kills in area waterways. Principle #7 Points Covered ü Prune shrubs and trees during late winter or early spring before new growth occurs ü Mow turf at proper height ü Avoid bagging grass clippings ü Avoid or limit the use of herbicides and pesticides
  • 11. ü Consider organic pest control and manual weed pulling ü Fertilize grass once in spring and again in early fall ü Do not fertilize before rain is expected NEW CONSTRUCTION Protect existing trees on a construction site to add value and prevent additional landscaping costs. A mature landscape takes many years to establish. Build tree protection fences under the outermost branches. Never allow storage of heavy equipment and machinery in these areas, as it will compact the soil and damage tree roots. Never dump paints or solvents near trees. The topsoil is a valuable resource to preserve and protect. If topsoil is stripped during construction, stockpile it for reuse on the site. If topsoil must be imported, be use it is of high quality and appropriate for the intended use. Never allow bare topsoil to wash off the site, which causes storm drain lines to clog, often causing street flooding. After construction, cover all exposed soil with sod, jute netting, landscaping fabric and/or mulch. In Corpus Christi, new construction sites of one-fourth acre or more are required to place erosion control devices to prevent soil loss. Increased storm water runoff is a problem in urban areas, as impervious surfaces do not allow rainfall to soak into the ground. These impervious surfaces include roofs, driveways, and sidewalks. Materials that may replace traditional paved driveways, parking areas, patios and walks include brick on sand and interlocking pavers. The impact of runoff can be reduced and the water can be infiltrate the soil with the use of grass drainage swales channeled into planting beds, vegetative buffers around paved areas and on-site detention and retention ponds. A drainage swale is a shallow depression or channel (not a ditch) designed to move water across a site. Some cities require on-site detention and retention ponds for commercial structures. These ponds allow storm water to filtrate naturally into the soil and also reduce the amount of sediment entering the storm water drainage system, thus reducing non-point source pollution.