The Travel & Leisure Magazine November 09

The Travel & Leisure Magazine

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2009 £2

BRAZIL
Carnival times

JAMAICA
Reggae island

FESTIVE TRADITIONS
SLOPING OFF
Europe's Christmas markets Family skiing holidays
November/December 2009

FULL OF EASTERN PROMISE SCOT FLEE
Far East, Australia and world cruises Winter breaks in Scotland’s cities

PLUS
★ WIN one of 10 CEWE Photobooks & 5
copies of Where to Ski and Snowboard
★ Reader offer on a charming Dorset hotel
AND: Exploring London’s ethnic communities,
Christmas activities and golf on the Costa del Sol

MBER 2009 £2
NOVEMBER/DECE

BRAZIL
Carnival times

JAMAICA
Reggae island G OFF
SLOPINing holidays
ITIONS ly skiFami
FESTIVE TRAD markets
istmas
Europe's Chr SCOT FLEE
s
RN PROMISE in Scotland’s citie
FULL OF EASTE world cruises
tralia and
Winter breaks
Far East, Aus

PLUS T R A V E L
Photobooks & 5
# WIN one of 10 CEWE and Snowboard
s of Where to Ski
copie t hotel
charming Dorse
# Reader offer on a unities,
n’s ethnic comm
AND: Exploring Londo golf on the Costa del Sol
ies and
Christmas activit

FROM THE EDITOR

BANISH THE GLOOM

W
elcome to the
new issue of

P&O Cruises
The Travel &
Leisure Magazine. The
news and weather may be
gloomy, but we hope you GETTING TO KNOW Jamaica 6
will find the pages
packed with items to lift ESCAPE TO European Christmas markets 15
your spirits and brighten
your horizons.
Getting into the reggae OFF THE BEATEN TRACK Brazil 20
groove, we look at Jamaica, famous for its
beaches, all-inclusive resorts and the endur- ALL ABOARD Far East, Australia & World cruises + News 26
ing legacy of Bob Marley. The musical
theme continues with a focus on samba LET’S TRY Family skiing holidays 31
nation Brazil, which will welcome the
world to Rio for the World Cup and READER OFFER – special offer on Where to Ski and Snowboard 2010
Olympic Games.
For those planning a holiday in the com- PACK YOUR CLUBS Costa del Sol 37
ing weeks and months, we look at breaks
taking in traditional Christmas markets TRAVEL UPDATE Travel news 43
across Europe and winter getaways in
Scotland’s cities. We also put the spotlight
on family skiing holidays with a feature ON YOUR DOORSTEP Winter breaks in Scotland’s cities 45
written by ski guru Chris Gill, co-editor of
skiers’ bible Where to Ski and Snowboard.
Five copies of the guide’s 2010 edition can
be won, while prizes in other competitions
include tickets to Destinations: The Holiday
and Travel Show.
Our regular cruising feature looks at the
Far East and Australia as well as world
cruises, while Spain’s ever-popular Costa
Estonia Tourist Office

del Sol is the featured golf destination.
We hope you enjoy the read, and may we
wish you a merry Christmas – and happy
travels in 2010, wherever they may take you.
. Peter Ellegard German National Tourist Board

4 The Travel & Leisure Magazine November/December 2009

Sunvil
Lerendu
Avoriaz/Stephane

SuperClubs
L E I S U R E
COMPETITION AND READER OFFER 25
WIN – 10 pairs of tickets to Destinations: The Holiday & Travel Show
READER OFFER – special offer on tickets to Destinations
COMPETITIONS 36
WIN – one of 10 CEWE Photobooks worth £100 each
WIN – one of 5 copies of Where to Ski and Snowboard 2010
OUT & ABOUT What’s on outside London 50

Embratur
LONDON REVIEW London’s ethnic communities + News 52
READER OFFER – special offer on a luxury stay in Dorset 59 EDITORIAL TEAM
Editor Peter Ellegard
Writers Peter Ellegard, Keeley Gordon, Julie
COMING NEXT What’s in store in the next issue 62 Stevens, Sara Macefield, Dave Richardson, Chris
Gill and Robin McKelvie
Design Nick Blaxill
Advertising Team Jeannette Cumbers, Beverley
Sennett & Elaine Smith
Portsmouth Historic Dockyard

Admin/Accounts Wendy Barfoot
Production Keeley Gordon, Loretta Prince
Publisher Terry Stafford
von Essen Hotels

Digital Publisher Peter Lewsey
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November/December 2009 The Travel & Leisure Magazine 5

Island of
Marley’s spirit
With its lush mountains, waterfalls, stunning beaches, all-inclusive resorts and
a history rich in buccaneer mystique, Jamaica is a swashbuckling cut above
many Caribbean rivals. Sara Macefield explores the island whose famous son
Bob Marley gave the world reggae music

“G
et your legs up, ple of cables hundreds of feet up in the air.
up, up”, screamed Having reached the other side in one
my Jamaican piece, my trepidation was swiftly replaced
guide. It wasn’t by elation and I felt ready to tackle anything.
the usual sort of After all, this is just one of the adrenalin-
command you’d busting activities designed to tempt holiday-
expect, but as I was racing along a zip-wire makers off Jamaica’s beautiful beaches and
at full pelt towards the landing platform into its rugged, jungle-filled interior.
– it seemed a sensible request! As the third-largest island in the Caribbean,
Only a few seconds earlier, I’d Jamaica offers much to entrance visitors, from
stood at the top of the tropical the misty peaks of the Blue Mountains with
river gorge, knowing I would their beautiful landscapes of rivers and water-
be skimming across the falls, to the rocky cliffs and wide open sandy
treetops held up by noth- beaches of the laid-back resort of Negril, the
ing more than just a cou- coolest of all chill-out zones.


getting to KNOW
JAMAICA

Jamaica Tourist Board

Sandals

I At your
service – a
Sandals butler

I A taste of I Hanging around
Jamaica on a canopy tour

Jamaica is where you’ll find historic old hub of the city is Gloucester Avenue, the so-
plantation houses rubbing shoulders with called “Hip Strip” full of restaurants, bars, Healing waters
luxurious hotels and sprawling all-inclusive art galleries and duty-free shops. Jamaica’s waters have healing powers.
resorts; where you can hide away in chic Mo Bay, as it is called by the locals, has The most famous – and touristy – are at
boutique hotels tucked into rocky cliffs or on its own marine park which covers 10 miles Doctors Cave Beach where the mineral
lush mountain slopes. of coral reefs. There is also the springs are said to be therapeutic.
It is a place of local legends of bucca- famous white-sand Doctors Then there are the mineral waters of
neering pirates and murderous witches, of Cave Beach and its mineral Milk River, said to be the most
romance tinged with royalty and old spring, said to have therapeu- radioactive in the world with high levels
Hollywood glamour. tic powers. Nearby is the of magnesium, calcium, sulphate and
But underpinning it all is the raw reggae attractive town of Falmouth, noted natural chloride.
vibe that dominates this island and envelops for its well-preserved Georgian The baths here date from 1794, but
its culture, stemming from Jamaica’s most buildings, dating from the users are warned not to stay in the
famous son Bob Marley, who planted his dis- 1700s. waters for more than 10 or 20 minutes
tinctive beat across the world. Ocho Rios – at a time because of their potency.
“Ochi” as it is Jamaica even has a town called Bath
Tourist areas affectionately which was founded because of the
Most of Jamaica’s tourist resorts are along called, is more nearby mineral springs which are high in
the north coast, though one or two resorts tourist-friendly than sulphate.
have sprung up on the lesser-developed Montego Bay with its craft In the 18th century, Bath was popular
south coast. These are the island’s tourist market, duty-free shops, with the European elite who flocked
areas: restaurants and cafes and here for the healing powers of the
Montego Bay – Jamaica’s second city more relaxed atmosphere. scalding hot waters and elegant botanical
after the capital, Kingston – which is bigger Visitors should aim for the gardens – the first on the island.
and busier than the other tourist resorts. The outdoor Island Village shopping

I Frenchman’s Cove Image: Jamaica Tourist Board


SuperClubs
Sandals

I Diving off Jamaica
I Canoeing

Water sports
With more than 600 miles of coastline and over 100 rivers
Jamaica offers ample opportunity for water sports fans to
make a big splash.
From river tubing and river rafting to diving, sailing and
under-sea tours on a semi-sub reef explorer, Jamaica has
plenty of watery attractions.
As well as the usual range of water sports and boat trips,
there’s the Kool Runnings water park in Negril, which claims
to be the largest in the Eastern Caribbean and is packed full
of thrilling aqua rides.
Alternatively, sun-worshippers wanting to bare all can choose

Sandals
from a wide selection of naturist spots – Jamaica claims to I Sailing a catamaran
offer more nude beaches than any other Caribbean island.

centre in the heart of the resort which English-speaking city in the Waterfalls
houses the Reggae Xplosion Caribbean. It sits at the head of The island’s scenic beauty and colourful
museum that tells the fasci- one of the world’s biggest history have always helped it to attract
nating story of how natural harbours which in legions of visitors, but in recent years
Jamaican music has years past was home to Jamaica has turned up the thrill factor to
influenced the world. buccaneering pirates offer an adrenaline-pumping alternative to
Negril – the so- who based themselves adventure-seekers wanting to explore the
called “capital of at nearby Port Royal. stunning rugged interior. The top natural
casual” is famous for The old city, described attraction has to be Dunn’s River Falls
having the best beach in the 17th century as (www.dunnsriverfallsja.com) near Ocho
on Jamaica and the the “wickedest city in the Rios. These 600ft falls were just made for
most beautiful sunsets. west”, was destroyed by climbing, and it is great fun to scramble over
This is a place to kick off earthquake and now lies huge boulders and plunge into the tempting
your shoes, sit back and chill I Sunset over Jamaica underwater in the bay. Kingston pools.
out. Some of the hippest boutique Jamaica Tourist Board may have a tough reputation, but its You need to be reasonably agile and you
hotels in the Caribbean are tucked into the location on the south of the island means it have to concentrate, especially at some of
rocky cliffs behind the beach, offering a real is far removed from the main tourist areas. It the steepest points, but the reward is the
laid-back escape. However, more active trav- also has a number of its own visitor great sensation of standing
ellers can take advantage of the excellent attractions under one of the many
choice of water sports or try out the local South Coast – this is one of waterfalls and gasping
restaurants. the most unspoilt parts of for breath from the
Port Antonio – set on the north-east coast, the island and one of the sheer power of the
this is the romantic heart of Jamaica where most beautiful with its torrent.
the Blue Mountains sweep down to the sea. deserted beaches, tiny If you only do
Less touristy than the other resorts, this lush fishing villages and tradi- one thing when
retreat is known for its beautiful setting tional towns. This is the you’re in Jamaica –
which decades ago attracted film-stars, most place to come crocodile- do this. It’s unique,
notably Hollywood swashbuckler Errol spotting on wildlife safaris invigorating and
Flynn, who declared it “more beautiful than along the Black River or unforgettable.
any woman I have ever seen”. splash around in the cascading Just a few words of
I Romantic bridge
Kingston – Jamaica’s capital is the largest waters of the 120ft YS Falls. warning….try to avoid visiting


when cruise ships call, other- Bob Marley drive from Ocho Rios.
wise the falls are mobbed But it’s the beautiful Blue Nearby is Goldeneye, the former hide-
with cruise passengers. Mountains that were made for away of James Bond author Ian Fleming,
Aim for the morn- exploring and hikers; bikers and Firefly, the beautifully-located retreat of
ings too, as these and adventurers can dis- famous English playwright Noel Coward
tend to be less cover a rich array of flora which has been preserved and is well worth
busy than after- and fauna. visiting, if only for the views.
noons. For serious walkers, Visitors looking for a more local flavour
For a quieter the seven-mile hike to the should step out on hikes in Maroon Country
alternative, visit summit takes three to four in the east of the island where there’s the
Somerset Falls hours, while chance to meet local maroons – descen-
near Port Antonio, cyclists can get dants of runaway slaves who made
which are less-known, a lift up one of their home in the
or the Mayfield Falls the mountains and mountains.
I The Bob Marley Museum
near Negril which are in a enjoy the 18-mile But probably the
perfect area for cave diving, cliff- Jamaica Tourist Board downhill ride which finishes most famous local is
jumping or simply messing about in the with a refreshing waterfall dip. Bob Marley. He may
water. Wildlife fans can swim with have died nearly 30
And if you want a true chill-out, try river dolphins at Dolphin Cove years ago, but nowhere
rafting on one of the long bamboo rafts that (www.dolphincovejamaica.com)

drift lazily down the Rio Grande or the Great near Ocho Rios or at the Half Moon
or Martha Brae rivers. resort near Montego Bay
Daredevils can visit Mystic Mountain (www.halfmoon.com/dolphin-
(www.rainforestbobsledjamaica.com), encounters.php).
one of the island’s newer attractions near Alternatively they can splash
Ocho Rios where they can soar through the around with stingrays at Stingray City
treetops on a chairlift, hurtle through the for- (www.stingraycityjamaica.com) on
est on a bobsled or swing through the forest James Bond Beach, near the north
on a zip-wire. coast village of Oracabessa, a 25-minute

All-out fun at Jamaica’s It was almost midnight and I was being
given a severe dressing down by the two
girls manning the doorway I wanted to

all-inclusive resorts enter. So severe, they made me strip down
to my underpants before they would let
me pass. But then they were virtually as
nature intended, save for some tiny scraps
of cloth and strategic body painting.
I should have expected nothing less.
After all, it was the official opening night of
Jamaica’s adult-only Hedonism III resort
and the event I was trying to get into was
the late-night disco following the
Neptune-themed opening party.
This was clearly not going to be a night
for the self-conscious or prudish. A fact
underlined by the sight that caught my eye
when I stepped up to the bar. As the sea
of near-bare flesh gyrated on the dance
floor, a naked body suddenly flashed past
just above the crowd’s heads in a large,
clear plastic tube hung from the ceiling.
The resort’s flume tube goes straight
through the disco, and revellers had
obviously decided to discard all their
clothing to try it out.
It may have been 10 years ago, but the
experiences from that visit are etched
SuperClubs

vividly in my memory. Perhaps none more
I Hedonism III disco and flume tube
so than during the golf tournament the


I Pool-side at

Sandals
Sandals Negril
does his spirit live on more strongly than in popular tourist attractions, drawing thou- One of his former homes in the
Jamaica. sands of visitors wanting to pay homage to Trenchtown area of the capital, called
His birthplace and final resting place in the music legend. Culture Yard, is also open to the public.
the rural district of St Ann near Ocho Rios The Bob Marley Museum is located in His final resting place is the Bob Marley
and the Bob Marley Museum in Kingston the superstar’s original recording studio in Mausoleum (www.ninemilejamaica.com)
(www.bobmarley-foundation.com/ New Kingston where he recorded many of which comprises the tiny house in the vil-
museum.html) are among Jamaica’s most his songs. lage of Nine Mile where he was born.

model had dispensed with her bikini and
was being body painted by any golfers
who fancied giving her a lick of paint. All
very distracting as you tried to hit your
ball from the nearby tee.
Back at the resort, things continued in
similar vein. A stage show ended with a
member of the audience being covered in
whipped cream and volunteers sought to
SuperClubs

Half Moon
remove it without using their hands.
On the way to the beach, I walked
I Water sliding at Hedonism III underneath a see-through Jacuzzi – I Fern Tree Falls at Half Moon
next day. Organised by the resort’s parent diverting my eyes from the naked German underpants, to the wind.
company, SuperClubs, it featured guests whose bodily bits were wobbling in The two Hedonism resorts represent
hospitality tents by the tees of several the bubbles.There were actually two one extreme of the all-inclusive scene in
holes, each hosted by a different resort beaches: one labelled the Nudes Beach, Jamaica.There are family resorts, such as
branch. At the first tee, chefs in white hats and the other the Prudes SuperClubs’ Starfish Trelawny Resort &
cooked up breakfast while uniformed Beach. Spa or the Beaches resorts
masseuses gave golfers a pre-game Of course there operated by Sandals. Some are
massage in the tent hosted by its were many other romantic escapes popular with
upmarket Grand Lido Resorts & Spas. A activities and honeymooners or couples
few holes along, the Cuban resorts were parts of the getting married, while others
serving up lashings of rum while a salsa resort that did appeal to the sporty and
band laid down infectious rhythms. not involve active types.The choice is
Then there was the Hedonism tent, disrobing. It was yours.
hosted by the new resort and its more just an option if And of course, if you really
established and equally-outrageous sibling, you had no want to, you can let it all hang
Hedonism II. Outside, two bikini-clad inhibitions and out...
I Snorkelling at Hedonism III
models wearing giant angel wings sat on wanted to throw
the edge of a hot tub, while inside another caution, and your Peter Ellegard
SuperClubs


All photos: Jamaica Tourist Board
I Jamaica’s waterfalls are among its top attractions I Rafting on the Martha Brae

Where to stay
Large family-orientated resorts, chic upmar- Jamaica facts
ket retreats, trendy boutique hideaways and
small independent hotels – Jamaica has
them all. When to go
But it is most famous as the birthplace of The best weather is from December to April,
the all-inclusive concept which started with which is the high season. July and August are
the opening of the Jamaican resort, Couples, also popular, but are in the hurricane season
in the Seventies. which runs from June to September/October.
Couples Resort is still open, but it has
since been joined by a huge choice of other Visa
all-inclusives, namely those owned by the UK passport holders do not need a visa for
Sandals/Beaches group and SuperClubs – stays of up to 90 days.
both of which are owned by Jamaican fami-
lies and have several resorts on Jamaica and Getting there
other Caribbean islands. British Airways (www.ba.com) flies from Gatwick to Kingston and Montego
More recently, Spanish hotel chains such Bay and Virgin Atlantic (www.virginatlantic.com) operates from Gatwick to
as Riu, Iberostar and Barcelo have built a Kingston and Montego Bay.There are also charter flights with Thomsonfly
string of modern all-inclusive hotels, but (www.thomsonfly.com) and Thomas Cook Airlines
holidaymakers wanting something more (www.thomascookairlines.co.uk). Flight time is around 10 hours.
unusual should head for the mountains.
Strawberry Hill in the Blue Mountains is Tour operators
an 18th century plantation house that UK operators featuring Jamaica include British Airways Holidays
became the hideaway of record mogul Chris (www.ba.com),Thomas Cook Holidays (www.thomascook.com),Thomson
Blackwell and the place where Bob Marley (www.thomson.co.uk),Virgin Holidays (www.virginholidays.co.uk), First
recuperated after being shot in the 1970s. Choice Holidays (www.firstchoice.co.uk), ITC Classics
It offers rustic, laid-back luxury along (www.itcclassics.co.uk), Kuoni (www.kuoni.co.uk), Hayes & Jarvis
with stunning views over Kingston. (www.hayesandjarvis.co.uk) and Harlequin Holidays
Other one-off gems include Rockhouse, (www.harlequinholidays.com).
The Caves, Jake’s (described as the chic-est
shack in the Caribbean) and Tensing Pen – Getting around
built into the cliffs overlooking Negril’s Choose from domestic flights between Kingston
stunning white-sand beach. and Montego Bay, local buses, JUTA tourist buses
Well established upmarket alternatives (www.jutc.com), taxis or hire cars.Travelling
that still hold traditional charm include around can be an adventure, but it gives visitors
Jamaica Inn in Ocho Rios, plus Round Hill a great flavour of the island. Make sure you
and Half Moon near Montego Bay. TL travel only on licensed buses and taxis. Jamaica
has a good network of roads but they may not always be in the best condition,
Sara Macefield has been writing about plus other drivers tend to drive fast and furiously – so be warned!
the Caribbean for the last 15 years, visiting
so many times she has been nicknamed the
Tourist information
“Caribbean Queen”. She has been to most
islands, but Jamaica is one of her favourite Jamaica Tourist Office: call 020 7225 9090 or visit www.visitjamaica.com
places to relax with a rum punch.


ESCAPE to…
CHRISTMAS MARKETS

In the market for
Chr stmas

■ Christmas in Augsburg
Bavaria Tourism

Traditional Christmas markets in towns and cities
throughout the Continent and farther afield are now
hugely popular for festive get-away breaks.
Dave Richardson explores their attraction

C
onsidering that I’m not ancient Polish city of
much of a shopper, my Krakow, and the tem-
first experience of a tradi- perature was 20ºC
tional Christmas market below freezing.
came as a revelation. It was Yet more snow dust-
nearly 20 years ago in the ed Krakow’s many spires ■ Children with toffee apples in Lemgo German National Tourist Board


Cologne's Prague
market and Christmas
cathedral market
Leonardo Mediabank

Leger Holidays
Bruges at Christmas
Rostock
market

German National Tourist Board
Dertour

■ Christmas in Liege

as darkness fell in mid afternoon, creating a although many of these are not traditional Jesus. This is the case at Nuremberg, one of
true Christmas card scene. I followed the and as far away as Japan, Canada and the the best markets, also home of gingerbread
crowds to the vast Market Square – said to USA. Germany and France both have about which is one of the favourite festive foods.
be the largest in Europe – and made straight 80 listings, with Austria having 29 and The market at Munich, held on the
for a stall selling hot mulled wine. Belgium 16. Marienplatz in front of the guildhall, is one
Everyone around me seemed happy and In Germany – as in Krakow, no doubt – of the most impressive with over 120 stalls.
soon I forgot about the cold as I wolfed this year’s markets will have an extra reason Many stalls still concentrate on traditional
down sausage and fried cheese, before buy- to celebrate. November marked 20 years toys and festive fare, although inevitably
ing some woollen slippers and wooden toys since the fall of the Berlin Wall and the end they have been infiltrated by modern gadg-
at bargain prices. I went away feeling warm of Communism in Europe, which led to the ets and clothing.
and also the warmth of humanity, and ever revival of many traditions including a festive Look for regional variations, such as a
since I try to visit a European Christmas Christmas. Glühwein (a warm mulled wine) Christmas pastry at Frankfurt’s Christmas
market far from the blandness and rip-off and eierpunsch (an alcoholic drink with market. Bethmännchen is made from marzi-
prices in Britain. eggs) can be found everywhere. pan with almonds and sugar, and young men
I’m not alone in wanting to flee these used to send it as a token of their love. If a
shores as Christmas approaches, despite the “Nearly one person in four is girl kept it they could remain hopeful – if
increasing number of festive markets in this planning a festive break” not, they had to look elsewhere.
country. According to research by Leger Cologne is another highly popular German
Holidays, nearly one person in four is plan- Christmas markets started around 1400 in market, being held near the immense cathe-
ning a festive break and a key reason is the German-speaking part of Europe, with dral which is one of the world’s largest. Many
wanting to escape the over-commercialisa- Dresden (1434) being one of the first and of the most charming traditional markets are
tion of Christmas. now attracting two million visitors a year. in smaller places, such as Trier, Mainz,
Krakow is actually a fairly unusual Opening of the markets in early December Koblenz, Kaiserslautern, Speyer and Worms
choice, as the most popular traditional mar- or late November coincides with the Advent – which call themselves the Romantic Cities
kets are in Germany. The website religious festival, and some are called of Germany. Historic Highlights of Germany,
Christmasmarkets.com offers information Christkindel Markt (Christ child market) a group of 14 cities, has four recommended
on over 400 markets in 22 countries, with a child playing the role of the boy routes taking in the markets.


■ Tallinn
Christmas
market

Estonia Tourist Office
Out of the
Ordinary
Here are a few more ideas for a
Christmas market break with a
difference:
Tallinn, capital of the tiny Baltic country
of Estonia, has revived a festive market
which was popular long ago but abolished
during Soviet rule.The 64 wooden stalls
are set out in the medieval Town Hall
Belgian Tourist Office
Square around a huge Christmas tree, as
Father Christmas and his elves – Scribble
and Scrabble – work the crowd. Choirs,
dance groups, poets and musicians keep
you entertained.The market runs from
November 29-January 7.
Christmas markets in Belgium, in its central Just across the Baltic from Tallinn is
■ The Christmas square and adjacent Place du Marché. In the Helsinki, capital of Finland, a country
angel at
Nuremberg Flanders part of Belgium you will find mar- which claims Santa Claus for its own (as
kets in every city, including Bruges (a great does Greenland, among others).The
city break destination in itself) and – just Ladies Christmas Market runs from
across the Channel – Ostend. The snow and December 2-6 with handicrafts made by
ice sculptures in Bruges are an added attrac- Finnish women, followed by the main
tion from November 20-January 10, while in market in Esplanade Park.
the Belgian capital Brussels, a large ice rink The Hungarian capital of Budapest is
can be enjoyed as well as the market. another ex-Eastern bloc city to revive its
You can reach Brussels in less than two Christmas traditions.The venue is
hours by Eurostar train from London, while Vörösmarty Square, which is decorated

the journey to Lille in northern France is with a huge Christmas tree and an
even faster at 80 minutes. Lille’s market is advent calendar.
one of the best in France, a highlight being
when Father Christmas descends an 80- ■ Traditional
metre-high belfry on December 19. Christmas tree
decorations
If you prefer to fly then there are more
countries to choose from, where you can
Many visitors gravitate towards larger combine a Christmas market with a histori-
cities as there is so much more to do, espe- cal city or even some skiing. Markets are
cially during the long evenings at the darkest held in most Austrian cities including
time of the year. Another reason some cities Vienna (a very cultural choice in the run-up
are very popular is ease of access from the to Christmas), Salzburg and Innsbruck.
UK , which is why Belgian and French mar- Vienna’s market is in front of City Hall,
kets come into their own. where children can create their own presents
Liege holds one of the oldest and largest at Santa’s Workshop, and dispatch them German National Tourist Board


■ Salzburg Christmas market
Salzburg Tourist Office

from a special post office without the possi- Christmas market facts
bility of postal strikes! Musical programmes
with choirs and pastoral plays are performed
on the steps of Salzburg Cathedral, while in When to go
Innsbruck, a daily attraction at 5.30pm is the Christmas markets take place from late November or early December. Many
Turmbläser, a brass band which plays close just before Christmas but some continue until New Year’s Eve and even
Christmas songs from the city tower. into January.
Innsbruck’s main market is in the medieval
Old Town by the 14th century balcony Getting there

known as the Golden Roof, with dozens of You can fly from main UK airports to major German
stalls decked out with Christmas decora- cities including Munich and Frankfurt, and Frankfurt
tions, locally-crafted wood and glassware, airport has an inter-city rail terminal for trains all over
and typical Tyrolean clothing. the country. Brussels and Prague also have good UK air
Prague has several Christmas markets, connections, but remember that low-cost airlines have strict
the most important being in Old Town limits on baggage with big supplements to pay if you stock up on Christmas
Square and Wenceslas Square. Brightly-dec- goodies.This makes rail a good option, including Eurostar to Lille and Brussels,
orated wooden huts sell traditional Czech with easy connections in Brussels to Cologne and other German cities.Also
products from handicrafts to corn on the consider coach tours, or drive yourself using Eurotunnel or ferries. Fred Olsen
cob, sausages and other local specialties, and is one of the cruise lines with a Christmas Markets theme departure.
in Old Town Square children can stroke
sheep, goats and even a llama – although Tour operators include
what connection a llama has with Christmas, Shearings (0844 824 6352, www.shearings.com), Dertour (020 7290 1105,
or the Czech Republic, is not clear. As with www.dertour.co.uk or www.christmasmarkets.co.uk), Leger Holidays
most markets, however, it has a Bethlehem (0845 408 07 69, www.legerbreaks.info),Travelsphere (0800 567 7372,
crib scene depicting Mary, Joseph, baby www.travelsphere.co.uk), Newmarket Holidays (0845 226 7756,
Jesus and the Three Kings. www.newmarket.travel), Short Breaks Ltd (0844 482 2940,
Whether the Three Kings arrive on www.short-breaks.com),Titan HiTours (0800 988 5823,
camels or even llamas, you can be sure of a www.titanhitours.co.uk), Great Rail Journeys (01904 521 936,
lot more atmosphere when visiting a www.greatrail.com)
European market than if you stay in Britain
– despite the best efforts of home-grown Sample prices
Christmas markets such as York, Lincoln or Dertour’s huge choice in Germany and other countries includes a two-night
Bath. They operate throughout December break to Nuremberg by air costing from £339 and extra nights from £53.
and fares are usually low at this time of year Leger Holidays’ two-night break to Brussels and Bruges, by coach, costs from £149.
– especially midweek. Most cities’ other Great Rail Journeys features a three-night trip to Cologne for £445, including
main attractions are a lot less crowded than first-class travel by Eurostar and a Rhine cruise to Rudesheim market.
in the summer.
Maybe, like me, you’ll find that visiting More information

Christmas markets becomes the habit of a The website www.christmasmarkets.com has a
lifetime. You certainly won’t be pining for comprehensive listing, with hotel and travel offers.
Britain’s dreary shopping malls, with a glass German National Tourist Office: 020 7317 0908,
of steaming glühwein in one hand and a siz- www.germany-tourism.co.uk and
zling bratwurst sausage in the other! TL www.germany-christmas-market.org.uk
Historic Highlights of Germany: www.historicgermany.com
Dave Richardson got fed up with Christmas
shopping in Britain at a very early age, when he Romantic Cities of Germany: www.romantic-cities.com
had to queue for an hour to meet Santa at a Austrian markets: www.christkindlmarkt.co.at and
department store in Liverpool. In over 30 years
of travelling he has visited nearly every country www.weihnachtsmarkt-salzburg.at
in Europe, and has a particular interest in Central Bruges: www.winterinbrugge.be
Europe including the former Communist
countries. Tallinn Christmas Market: www.christmas.ee


Samba

Sunvil
party
With the Olympic Games heading to Rio in 2016 and the World Cup there two years earlier,
■ A carnival
dancer

carnival-mad Brazil will be partying like never before as it welcomes the world.
Dave Richardson gets into the samba spirit to discover what makes the country so special

W
hen a traffic light turns have hoisted the white flag of surrender. on coming relentlessly. Turn it to amber and
to amber or red, you Marius is one of the best churrascaria they ease off a bit. Only when you turn it to
might get annoyed at restaurants in Rio, specialising in barbecued red does your belly get some respite.
the hold-up. But in beef, pork and chicken. After helping your- Food is not, of course, the main reason for
Marius restaurant, on self to a lavish buffet of starters, you lick visiting Rio. We go for the beautiful views, the
Copacabana beach in your lips as waiters cut the meats at your samba beat, carnival, beach, football and the
Rio de Janeiro, I turned the “lights” to table from long vertical skewers. Keep your whole crazy exuberance of Brazilian life, which
amber and then red myself. I might as well “traffic light” card on green and they keep has attracted runaways from the

off the beaten TRACK
BRAZIL

■ New Year fireworks ■ Beach in
over Rio north-east Brazil

Christian KnepperEmbratur
Sunvil
John Cleese character Archie Leach (A Fish All I can say from personal experience is cost supports community projects.
Called Wanda) to train robber Ronnie Biggs. that a tourist is no more likely to be attacked Without doubt Rio is a beautiful city, and
Many more people will be heading for or robbed in Rio than any other big city, as as it is set around a series of bays divided by
Rio soon, as Brazil will be hosting the 2014 long as you take the usual precautions. The mountains it doesn’t seem that big. The best
World Cup (with some matches in Rio’s only machetes I saw being wielded were to known mountain is of course Corcovado,
famous Maracana stadium) and it will be behead coconuts on Ipanema beach. topped by the statue of Christ the Redeemer
host city of the 2016 Olympic Games. But which has been declared one of the new
there is of course a down side to Rio, as por- New wonder Seven Wonders of the World. The ascent is
trayed in films such as the ultra-violent City But I did join a guided favela (slum) tour, to usually by rack railway through the rainfor-
of God. Within days of Rio being awarded the notorious slum of Rocinha, to find out est covering Rio’s mountains, whereas you
the Olympics, a police helicopter was shot about life for the vast majority of residents go by cable car up Sugar Loaf Mountain for
down during another bout of drug gang war- who live in poverty. Call it “voyeur tourism” even better views.
fare. if you must, but I learned a lot and the tour There’s much more to see in Rio – from

■ Rio de Janeiro
Embratur/Angelo Cavalli

■ Rio's carnival is regarded
the world’s best

Embratur/Secretario de Turismo do Recife
■ Carnivals
are the
high point

Kuoni
of the year

■ The Rio Carnivals
Sambadrome
Brazil’s hedonistic lifestyle is why many
people want to visit, and carnivals are
the high point of the year not only in
Rio but in many other cities. It’s said that
when people aren’t actually at a carnival,
they are preparing for it – with samba
schools competing all year round.
The Rio carnival (February 13-16,
2010, and March 5-8, 2011) is generally
considered to be the world’s best, but
you need to book early and air fares and
hotel rates are sky-high.The
Sambadrome is the heart of the action,
where 65,000 people pack in to watch
samba schools perform and countless
parades.You can visit a samba school any
time – ask your hotel concierge.
Salvador, on the north-east coast, runs
Embratur/Rudy Huhold

Rio close for sheer indulgence. Here the
carnival is very African influenced – not
surprising when you look at a world
map. Recife and Sao Paulo also hold
major events.

museums and a wonderful Botanic Garden to because of the different vantage points. largest, the Devil’s Throat, having the high-
chic districts such as Santa Teresa – while the Crossing the border is simple if you book a est volume of water per second of any water-
nearby coast also has some charming resorts, tour, with the views from the Argentine side fall in the world.
such as colonial Paraty.You could easily spend being more panoramic.
a week around here, but the fifth largest coun- Iguacu consists of 275 individual falls Amazon
try in the world is awaiting you….. stretching for nearly two miles with the You might see iguanas and many species of
Sao Paulo – the biggest city but not the birds around the falls, but not the jaguars
capital, which is Brasilia – offers little by portrayed in tourist literature. Wildlife is also
comparison, but this is the main internation- one of the reasons visitors head for the
al gateway and hub for internal flights. From Amazon, although the best wildlife viewing
Sao Paulo the whole of Brazil is accessible, is in the Pantanal wetlands in western Brazil.
and it covers nearly half of South America I flew to Manaus, the main gateway to the
including 4,600 miles of coast. Amazon, which is a flight of three and a half
A “must see” is Iguacu (or Iguassu) Falls, hours from Sao Paulo. Visions of thatched
Sunvil

reached by flights to Foz do Iguacu which is huts and barefoot natives proved to be an
90 minutes from Sao Paulo or three hours illusion as Manaus is a major city, and
from Rio. Here you get two or even three although it is about 1,000 miles from the
countries for the price of one, as Iguacu is Atlantic coast it is reachable by large cruise
on the border with Argentina and Paraguay. ships in about two days.
Viewing the falls from both the Brazilian ■ The Amazon Preparing to land in Manaus is much like
and Argentine sides is highly recommended, arriving at any other tropical island destina-


tion as you fly low over lush tropical vegeta-
tion, soft white sandy beaches and endless
blue sea – except that the water is the
Amazon river! It’s about five miles wide
here, but during the wet season from
December to June the beaches are sub-
merged as the river spreads into the sur-
rounding jungle.
A few miles from Manaus is a natural
phenomenon called Meeting of the Waters,
which you experience on a boat trip. The Rio
Negro and Rio Solimoes, both parts of the
Amazon system, are distinct in colour and
density because of the minerals they carry.
Where they join, the dark water of the Rio
Negro and muddy water of the Solimoes
flow side by side for several miles.
Most people spend only a night or two in
Manaus before heading deeper into the
Amazon on a small cruise ship, or to stay at
a jungle lodge. There are about 15 lodges ■ Iguacu Falls

Sunvil
around Manaus, ranging from the simple
and rustic to glitzy, air-conditioned hotels.
The activities they offer are much the same
– only the ambience is different. Brazil facts
I opted for Salvador Lake Lodge about
one hour’s trip across the Rio Negro. A When to go
night trip revealed the red eyes of small alli- Year-round, but July to December are the drier months.There are major
gators, but daytime excursions yielded only climatic variations in such a big country, from the tropical

a single toucan and much rustling in the north to temperate south.
undergrowth. I plan to return for deeper
exploration. Getting there and getting around
Direct flights to Sao Paulo and Rio are operated by
Wonderful beaches Brazilian airline TAM (www.tam.com.br) and British
Was it worth coming all this way for what I Airways (www.ba.com), with only BA operating non-stop
saw? It all depends on your priorities, and to Rio.TAM offers a cost-effective air pass on its internal
the same applies to visiting north-east network, with prices from US$532 for up to four flights. Many internal routes
Brazil. British tour operators used to fly are flown by low-cost airline GOL (www.voegol.com.br). Express coach
direct charters to Salvador, Recife and Natal services are viable over shorter distances and car hire is available.
in only eight hours, but since they were
axed you face a three-and-a-half-hour flight Accommodation
back from Sao Paulo, although you can also Major hotels of international standard operate in main cities and resorts,
fly to the north-east via Lisbon. where global chains are present. Resort-style hotels are widely available in
These are all major cities, but there are beach resorts, and eco-lodges are developing in the Amazon and some other
many smaller beach resorts such as Porto de areas. A word of warning: a “motel” in Brazil is where couples go for sex
Galinhas near Recife, Ponta Negra near (also called “love hotels”)!
Natal, and Praia do Forte near Salavdor. The
Costa do Sauipe, 50 miles from Salvador, Tour operators

has large all-inclusive hotels. Many companies offer packages and tailor-made tours.
The beaches of the north-east are simply For example, Kuoni (01306 747002,
wonderful, while Genipabu near Natal has www.kuoni.co.uk) offers a seven-night combination
immense dunes where you can go sand- of Rio and a Salvador beach resort from £1,565. Sunvil
boarding and even ride a camel. (8568 4499, www.sunvil.co.uk) has a 13-day Diverse
Beautiful, vibrant, inspiring, expect-the- Brazil tour for £3,990, including Rio, Iguacu, the Pantanal
unexpected Brazil – there aren’t enough and Paraty.Travelbag (0871 703 4698 www.travelbag.co.uk) includes three
days in a lifetime to experience it all. TL nights in a jungle lodge in its Rio and Amazon Adventure tour (10 days,
£1,299).
Dave Richardson first visited Latin America
over 30 years ago and has now visited six
countries in the region, including several trips to Tourist information
Brazil. He sometimes visits a churrascaria Brazilian Tourist Office (Embratur): www.braziltour.com, 020 7396 5551.
restaurant in his home town of Oxford – but it ■ Inset pictures show Olinda’s Convent de São Francisco (above right) and Paraipaba beach.
isn’t quite the same as in Rio...


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The Travel & Leisure Magazine November 09

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