1. RESULTS
Trial 1:
• Separated immediately upon mixing the two phases.
Trial 2
• After mixing, but before the addition of the preservative phenoxyethanol, the
emulsion was homogenous and thick. After addition of phenoxyethanol,
emulsion immediately separated into two distinct phases.
Trial 3
• After alternative preservative (Germaben II) was added, stable emulsion was
attained.
Trial 4 &5
• pH test and visual stability test were completed.
INTRODUCTION
Women of color, due to high melanin content, suffer from “ashy skin” which is
simply extremely dry skin that has flaked. It produces a greyish to whitish color on
the skin of those with higher melanin content. Many moisturizers on the market
today are not formulated with women of color in mind, who tend to desire a more
thicker and creamier moisturizer to combat their flaky dry skin.
PURPOSE
Water-in-oil emulsions were formulated due to their ability to leave an oil layer
on the skin which can function as an occlusive and prevent moisture from leaving
the skin. To determine the type of ingredients to be used, four popular skin care
moisturizing brands targeting women of color were researched.
• Nyraju Natural Skin Care
• Ambi ®
• Rx for Brown Skin
• Shea Moisture
The emulsion contains a mixture of oils and a butter due to more women of
color moving their interest towards moisturizers that are predominately made
with natural oils and butter.
DISCUSSION
• Trial 4, the most successful trial had a viscous and rich
consistency. Prior to breaking a few days after
formulated, Trial 5 also exhibited the same skin feel as
Trial 4.
• Trial 5 was intended to be an improved formulation of
Trial 4 but based on stability testing results it was not
improved. This may have been due to the extremely
slow addition of the water phase to the oil phase (1
hour and 30 minutes). For Trial 4, the addition of the
water phase lasted no longer than 10 minutes.
• At 45oC, complete breaking of the emulsion occurred
at week 7 for Trial 4 and at week 3 for Trial 5.
• At 25oC, complete breaking of the emulsion occurred
at week 5 for Trial 5. No breaking occurred for Trial 4
at this temperature.
CONTACT
Water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions are highly moisturizing, but may leave a
greasy after feel or thick layer on the skin. The challenge is trying to
incorporate natural oils and butters that so many women of color are
attracted in a W/O emulsion whilst trying to avoid an overly thick and
greasy formulation. Processing conditions and choice of preservative
system are critical to producing a stable W/O emulsion. Formulation
or/and processing adjustments for the good-feeling Trial 4 should be
performed to produce an emulsion stable at high temperature.
Tamare Sweeting
University of Toledo College of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical
Science
Cosmetic Science and Formulation Design Major Candidate May
‘16
Minor in Chemistry and General Business Candidate May ‘16
Tamare.Sweeting@rockets.utoledo.edu
567.225.2778
Formulating a Water – in – Oil emulsion for Women of Color
Tamare SweetingAB & Dr. Gabriella BakiA & Mark ChandlerB
AUniversity of Toledo, College of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences
BACT Solutions Corp
Ingredients
Trial 1
(30g)
Trial 2
(30g)
Trial
3
(60g)
Trial
4
(150g
)
Trial 5
(100g
)
Hyaluronic Acid 0.03% 0.03% 0.03% 0.03% 0.03%
Argan Oil 37.8% 7% 7% 7% 7%
Shea Butter 12.6% 8.27% 8.27% 8.27% 8.27%
Almond Oil 25.2% 10% 10% 10% 10%
Pelemol P-1263 3% 2.5% 2.5% 2.5% 2.5%
Phenoxyethanol 1% 1% - - -
Germaben III - - 1% 1% 1%
Vitamin E
Succinate
2% 1% 1% 1% 1%
Allantoin 0.5% 0.2% 0.2% 0.1% 0.1%
Zemea - 5% 5% 6.1% 6.1%
METHOD
• All water soluble ingredients were added to the water phase. All oil soluble ingredients were added to the oil
phase.
• For trials 2-5, temperature of both phases were heated to the same temperature.
• Water phase was added to the oil phase. This step differed for each trial.
• Trial 1: Water phase was added to the oil phase all at once.
• Trial 2-4: Water phase was added to the oil phase in a 5-10 minute time period.
• Trial 5: Water phase was added dropwise to the oil phase in a 1 hour and 30 minute period.
1st reading 2nd Reading
Trial 4 4.13 4.15
Trial 5 5.58 5.63
• Trial 4 and 5 were placed in centrifuge tubes,
which were then placed in a 25oC and 45oC
stability cabinet.
• Each week, a sample was removed from the
cabinet and underwent centrifugation .
• Parameters for centrifugation testing:
Centrifuged in a 1ml centrifuge tube for 1
minute with a slow speed of 6000 RPM.
• The amount of separation between oil and water
phase was measured before and after
centrifugation occurred.
• Trial 4 stability test was performed for 8 weeks.
• Trial 5 stability test is still ongoing but data
documents the first 5 weeks.
INGREDIENTS
TESTING
pH TEST:
Left to right: Trial 1, Trial 2,
Trial 3
Trial 4 Trial 5
Temperatu
re
Centrifuge
Activity
Separation of phases (cm)
Trial 4 Trial 5
Averag
e
Range Average Range
25oC Before
Centrifugi
ng
0 - 0.1 -
After
Centrifugi
ng
0.2 0.1-
0.3
0.5 0.3-0.6
45oC Before
Centrifugi
ng
0.3 0.1-
0.6
0.6 0.3-1
After 0.5 0.4- 0.8 0.6-1
STABILITY TEST:
CONCLUSI
ON
ACKNOWLEDGEME
NTSI would like to thank Mark Chandler and Dr. Gabriella Baki for making this
project possible. Additionally, special thanks to the University of Toledo
College of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Science who provided me with
the lab which enabled me to complete my project as well with assistance
with poster expenses.
Complete
breaking
No breaking
SCC 70th Annual Scientific Meeting and Technology Showcase • New York City, NY • December 10-11, 2015