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Restoring food geographies

                          Paul Kaldjian, Ph.D.
                 University of Wisconsin – Eau Claire
               Visiting Professor, University of Helsinki
                      Dodo, Helsinki, 31 May 2009
                          kaldjian@uwec.edu




                 Current Research
• History with research topics
   – Fieldwork 1997-1998
        • Urban agriculture urban food systems      food security
          strategies of low income people
• Dissertation
   – Urban food security and contemporary Istanbul: gardens,
     bazaars and the countryside (2000)
• Evolution of research interest
   –   City      Countryside
   –   Local       Global
   –   Traditional      Modern Alternative
   –   Turkey, Wisconsin, Finland




                                                                    1
Ex.: Contribution of traditional
 practices for contemporary cities




   Istanbul’s Bostans            Helsinki’s Siirtolapuutarhas
  800 year old gardens              80 year old gardens




             Geography of food
• Who eats what, where and why?
  – Who cares?
  – Connecting places and practices of production –
    distribution – consumption




                                                                2
Geography of food
• Nature – society interaction
  – Environment, culture, institutions
• Spatial relationships
  – Food systems, chains, networks
• Scale
  – Global-local market places, influences, perception
  – We live across scales




  Local Foods – Traditional Foods

• Do they matter?
  – Place, culture, community, sustainability, security
• Food & foodview characterize culture groups
  – Language, religion, architecture, etc.
• Reputation of a place (Aurier et al 2005)
  – Image of place in food
  – Terroir – taste of region, culture, inhabitants
  – Nostalgia and perception




                                                          3
Place in food
nothing new: Turkey




               Geography of food
• Shifting geographies of food in USA
  – Relocalization – returning place to foods
• Drivers
  – Reaction – to conventional system
     • food scares
     • mistrust of industry
     • lack of faith in government
  – Action – toward better alternatives
     • socio-environmental movement
     • empowerment, community, sustainability




                                                4
Choice or manipulation?




                  Trends in US
• Reconnecting with food
  – Reducing distance
     • cartographic, cognitive, temporal
     • cultural, experiential
  – Building community
• Real Food
• Local Food
• Traditional Food
  – Culturally & economically meaningful




                                           5
Americans have never been farther
removed from the making of their food
   USA




                                   USDA




                                          6
Conventional Agri-food system




Alternative Food Networks (AFN)




                                  7
Alternative Food Networks
• Goodman & Dupuis ( 2002)
    – Rejects global, industrial and environmentally degrading practices
        • these characterize the conventional
• Morgan, Marsden, Murdoch (2006)
    – Return wealth to farmers, trust with consumers
    – Create space for new forms of political association and market governance
        • consumer decision      lifestyle change   political change
• Follett (2008)
    – Weak AFNs fail to create change – e.g., Industrialized organic
        • standardized – part of Market World
        • focus on quality of food, not the system – long supply chains
        • do not challenge power structures
    – Strong AFNS                                             Sites of production
        • focus on relatiioships, transparency and trust      Production methods
• Holloway et al (2007)                                       Arena of exchange
    – Beware alternative-conventional binary                  Prod-Consumer relationship
    – Heterogeneous modes of production                       Motivations
                                                              Identities




  Remergence of Farmers’ Markets
• Wisconsin – Pop. 5.6 million
    – Nearly 300 farmers’ markets




                                                           Eau Claire farmers’ market, built 2006




                                                                                                    8
NYTimes, 11 June 2008
Growing number of Americans are vegetable gardening
 for the first time or increasing size of existing gardens




                                  Kaldjian back yard, Eau Claire, WI




      Harvest




                                  Portion of Kaldjian annual harvest




                                                                       9
• Fall 2006
   – Geography of Food
• January 2007
   – Foodlums: new student club
• Spring 2007
   – Campus garden
   – Farmers Market
• Fall 2007
   – Expanding role in community
• One of most energetic campus
  organizations
   – Involved in campus and community
   – campus food education,
   – promote local food networks




                                        10
Food systems and the re-localizing
             geography of food
• Protectionism? Nationalism?
• Opportunism? Gimmic or fad?
• Good idea
   – Environmental and social sustainability
   – Place-building
• Identity
   – Understanding connections to place, culture, history
• Empowerment
   – Individual, household, community
   – sufficiency




    Finland, food and changing food
               landscape
• Finns’ relationship with food
   – Want to do the right thing
      • fair trade
      • environmental sustainability
      • be a good citizen/parent
   – Limit emotions with food
      • be thankful that you even have food
   – Government as mediator
      • what people should eat
   – Finnish ingredients are best
      • But what does local mean?




                                                            11
Finland, food and changing food
                 landscape
• Emphases of food research in Finland
  –   Technologies
  –   Efficiencies
  –   Attitudes
  –   Health
  –   Environment
  –   Search for perfect food




            Pre- & half-made foods




                                         12
Functional Foods




                                    Superfood or Monster From the Deep?
                                        16.09.2008




      Finland, food and changing food
                 landscape
• Research Emphases
  – Technologies, efficiencies, attitudes, health,
    environment
  – Search for perfect food
• Consequences:
  –   Growing distance between people and food
  –   Culture – Frozen development?
  –   Deskilling
  –   Declining discernment
       • industrial food as normal, acceptable
       • ability to advocate for real foods is minimized




                                                                          13
Restoring food geographies
• Need critical evaluation of current systems
   – Weak, industrial       strong, local
   – Salvation in corporations, government?
       • innovation comes from bottom
• People need to be involved in their food
   – Cooking, growing, understanding, relationships
   – Power to choose a food future
   – Understanding transformation
• Accept environment
   – Live with what we have
• Need to understand place of culture
   – Recognize cultural bases
   – Traditional and local as daily, not exceptional
• Hybridity & adaptations
   – global-local, imported-traditional,”real”- industrialized
   – urban-rural (e.g., role of kesämökki, urban agriculture)




                                                                 14

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Restoring Local Food Connections

  • 1. Restoring food geographies Paul Kaldjian, Ph.D. University of Wisconsin – Eau Claire Visiting Professor, University of Helsinki Dodo, Helsinki, 31 May 2009 kaldjian@uwec.edu Current Research • History with research topics – Fieldwork 1997-1998 • Urban agriculture urban food systems food security strategies of low income people • Dissertation – Urban food security and contemporary Istanbul: gardens, bazaars and the countryside (2000) • Evolution of research interest – City Countryside – Local Global – Traditional Modern Alternative – Turkey, Wisconsin, Finland 1
  • 2. Ex.: Contribution of traditional practices for contemporary cities Istanbul’s Bostans Helsinki’s Siirtolapuutarhas 800 year old gardens 80 year old gardens Geography of food • Who eats what, where and why? – Who cares? – Connecting places and practices of production – distribution – consumption 2
  • 3. Geography of food • Nature – society interaction – Environment, culture, institutions • Spatial relationships – Food systems, chains, networks • Scale – Global-local market places, influences, perception – We live across scales Local Foods – Traditional Foods • Do they matter? – Place, culture, community, sustainability, security • Food & foodview characterize culture groups – Language, religion, architecture, etc. • Reputation of a place (Aurier et al 2005) – Image of place in food – Terroir – taste of region, culture, inhabitants – Nostalgia and perception 3
  • 4. Place in food nothing new: Turkey Geography of food • Shifting geographies of food in USA – Relocalization – returning place to foods • Drivers – Reaction – to conventional system • food scares • mistrust of industry • lack of faith in government – Action – toward better alternatives • socio-environmental movement • empowerment, community, sustainability 4
  • 5. Choice or manipulation? Trends in US • Reconnecting with food – Reducing distance • cartographic, cognitive, temporal • cultural, experiential – Building community • Real Food • Local Food • Traditional Food – Culturally & economically meaningful 5
  • 6. Americans have never been farther removed from the making of their food USA USDA 6
  • 8. Alternative Food Networks • Goodman & Dupuis ( 2002) – Rejects global, industrial and environmentally degrading practices • these characterize the conventional • Morgan, Marsden, Murdoch (2006) – Return wealth to farmers, trust with consumers – Create space for new forms of political association and market governance • consumer decision lifestyle change political change • Follett (2008) – Weak AFNs fail to create change – e.g., Industrialized organic • standardized – part of Market World • focus on quality of food, not the system – long supply chains • do not challenge power structures – Strong AFNS Sites of production • focus on relatiioships, transparency and trust Production methods • Holloway et al (2007) Arena of exchange – Beware alternative-conventional binary Prod-Consumer relationship – Heterogeneous modes of production Motivations Identities Remergence of Farmers’ Markets • Wisconsin – Pop. 5.6 million – Nearly 300 farmers’ markets Eau Claire farmers’ market, built 2006 8
  • 9. NYTimes, 11 June 2008 Growing number of Americans are vegetable gardening for the first time or increasing size of existing gardens Kaldjian back yard, Eau Claire, WI Harvest Portion of Kaldjian annual harvest 9
  • 10. • Fall 2006 – Geography of Food • January 2007 – Foodlums: new student club • Spring 2007 – Campus garden – Farmers Market • Fall 2007 – Expanding role in community • One of most energetic campus organizations – Involved in campus and community – campus food education, – promote local food networks 10
  • 11. Food systems and the re-localizing geography of food • Protectionism? Nationalism? • Opportunism? Gimmic or fad? • Good idea – Environmental and social sustainability – Place-building • Identity – Understanding connections to place, culture, history • Empowerment – Individual, household, community – sufficiency Finland, food and changing food landscape • Finns’ relationship with food – Want to do the right thing • fair trade • environmental sustainability • be a good citizen/parent – Limit emotions with food • be thankful that you even have food – Government as mediator • what people should eat – Finnish ingredients are best • But what does local mean? 11
  • 12. Finland, food and changing food landscape • Emphases of food research in Finland – Technologies – Efficiencies – Attitudes – Health – Environment – Search for perfect food Pre- & half-made foods 12
  • 13. Functional Foods Superfood or Monster From the Deep? 16.09.2008 Finland, food and changing food landscape • Research Emphases – Technologies, efficiencies, attitudes, health, environment – Search for perfect food • Consequences: – Growing distance between people and food – Culture – Frozen development? – Deskilling – Declining discernment • industrial food as normal, acceptable • ability to advocate for real foods is minimized 13
  • 14. Restoring food geographies • Need critical evaluation of current systems – Weak, industrial strong, local – Salvation in corporations, government? • innovation comes from bottom • People need to be involved in their food – Cooking, growing, understanding, relationships – Power to choose a food future – Understanding transformation • Accept environment – Live with what we have • Need to understand place of culture – Recognize cultural bases – Traditional and local as daily, not exceptional • Hybridity & adaptations – global-local, imported-traditional,”real”- industrialized – urban-rural (e.g., role of kesämökki, urban agriculture) 14