The document summarizes eco-tourism efforts in South America, specifically Chile. It discusses how Chile is promoting more environmentally friendly practices and renewable energy sources to preserve its natural wilderness areas popular with eco-tourists. It provides examples of organic farms and initiatives that balance agricultural production with environmental protection to support eco-tourism industries. However, a proposed hydroelectric dam project could negatively impact the environment and tourism if approved.
3. Eco-Tourism: Preserving South America’s Wilderness
Photos and Text by Adam Reichardt
Thanks to the people at
Ecolé, La Granja Organíca and Los Largartos
for being such gracious hosts.
5. G
reen has been on everyone’s ing as a student, I was intent on ab- largest economy in the world and
mind lately. The movement the second largest in the Americas)
towards more environe- Quickly I learned we are not that leads the way in total amount of
mentally friendly industry, energy, different. Focusing on environmen- exports at $137.8 billion dollars,
and lifestyles is growing stronger talism, I was seeking to question the followed by Chile at 58.12 billion
by the day. People desire to make Chilean mindset regarding “green.” [1]. In 2003 Chile signed a free trade
less of an impact on the planet while Many Chileans saw green as pride agreement with the United States.
still mantaining some of there tradi- in their country’s world renwoned This actions by the Chilean gov-
tions. One being travel. People love wilderness and biodiversity. Chile is ernment has the potential to bring
to travel. Travel offers a chance to long, narrow country with a climate Chile’s GDP to unprecedented
get away from the mundane hap- that varies greatly, ranging from the levels, positioning to Chile as a
penings of their daily life, and enter world’s driest desert-the Atacama- great power in the global commu-
into unknown territory. As people in the north, through a Mediterra- nity. With this new role comes the
nean climate in the centre, to a rainy responsibility towards their people
destinations, they are beginning to temperate climate in the south. Most and the global community to pre-
question their impact on these coun- spoke of the tourists who came for serve their environment.
tries. With these concerns, enters this reason, to experience so many Within South America, Chile
the industry of ecological toruism unique climates in a short time. leads the GDP per capita at $14,
or eco-tourism. The act of touring With this new growth in wealth
through a country while gaining that we are experiencing here in the comes a growing middle class look-
education about the environment United States, has not yet proliferat- ing to emulate the spending and
ed in Chile, but it certainly going in consumption habits of their neigh-
that direction. Chileans were more bors to the north, the United States.
Sunset over Seno Última Esperanza animated when discussing topics As these South Americans spend
(Last Hope Sound) in Puerto Natales. regarding the preservation of their more of their growing wealth on
This tiny little town is more or less wilderness, and what to do regard- technology, goods and land, they
regarded to be the basecamp town ing polluting and destructive energy will begin to confront many of the
for one of Chile’s natural wonders, the sources in the country. environmental issues that plague
industrialized societies (waste, pol-
mountian,Torres del Paine. Chile is gaining popularity on
the global stage. South America lution, energy shortage and obesity).
relies heavily on the exporting of Frankly, many of these issues are
I recently spent six months trav- goods and Chile is a major player in already emerging in their society.
eling as an eco-tourist through Chile this economic market. On an ex- Akin to the energy problems in the
and it’s neighboring countries. Go- change rate basis Brazil (the seventh United States, Chile is creating high
7. levels pollution due to their reliance law that requires new energy con- sound energy sources.
on electricity produced with coal A massive hydropower su-
technology. energy from non-traditional renew- per project is planned for the Aysén
As global climate change gar- able sources. The government has region of Chile, which is part of
ners more attention in the interna- also paved the way for up to US$400 the awe-inspiring scenery of Pa-
tional community, the pressure for million to be spent on renewable en- tagonia. The companies ENDESA
renewable energy sources increases. ergy projects. In the meantime there and Colbún S.A. have planned the
Chile has mounting reasons for its is a large push by corporations such HidroAysén project. In this joint
own interest in alternative energy. as ENDESA and Colbún S.A. to in-
Santiago experiences heavy layers vest in more hydroelectric projects. damns – two on the Baker River and
of smog as a result of industry and Sixty percent of electricity genera- three more on the Pascua – along
automotives. These clouds of smog tion in Chile is based on imported with 1,500 miles of transmission
- fossil fuels (mostly natural gas and
tions for the residents of Santiago. coal) and forty percent on domestic
Moreover, the cloud’s toxic particles hydropower.
T
have the potential to travel to neigh- he Andes mountain range
boring rural areas, affecting both the provides Chile with a rich
crops and water supplies. source of hydropower. The
annual glacial melt swells Chile’s
rivers providing its eight hydroelec-
Patagonia’s natural parks offer a rare tric plants with around 3000 Mega-
up close glimpse at varied wildlife. Here Watts (MW) of electricity. This pro-
are the famous Alpaca (left) and Gray vides a whopping forty percent of
Chile’s electricity energy. In compar-
Fox (right). Both hiking and auto tours ison, Hydroelectricity is only seven
are offered through the park. percent of the United States energy
production. With an expected an-
Chile and Argentina’s aging nual increase of six to seven percent
electricity grid and limited energy over the next ten years, That’s an
sources make it increasingly dif- annual increase on the order of 450
MW produced. Chile is confronted
growing populace as electricity de- with the dilemma of whether to
mands grow. The president of Chile, continue to pursue hydroelectric
Michelle Bachelet, signed a bill into sources or invest in ecologically
9. lines. The placing of the dams with- of 450 MW. This growth in capacity -
in these rivers will cause massive is necessary if present consumption
rates continue. If built this project is past the dams[4]. It is a rare mo-
of transmission lines a winding cor- expected to have a capacity of over
ridor almost 400 feet wide must be 2,750 MW, twenty percent of the na- environmental activists working
cleared, destroying thousands miles tion’s current total. The urban and together, this illustrates that giant
of native forest [2]. In addition to industrial areas around Santiago impact the HidroAysén project will
the forest destruction, the towers are would consume some of it, but most have on Chile.
more than 200 feet high and will be is needed in the mining operations
a massive eye sore for those looking that lie further north. Those living
to gaze upon Patagonia’s majestic
scenery. The visually and environ- they should suffer for the produc-
mentally destructive elements of tion of electricity to be shipped up
the project are being met with great north.
In response to this project, envi-
industries, as well as environmental ronmental activists, affected indus-
activists. tries and villages have drafter a long
The Perito Moreno Glacier is the most list of negatives. To achieve proper
visited glacier in the world (left). In fact function, hydroelectric dams must
create a reservoir that submerges
located in the Argentinian town of
large swaths of land upstream.
El Calafate, many tourists travel over
W
ith the present brown
from Chile.The mountians of Chile’s riverside habitats, which are rich in and blackouts occurring
central valley also offer a peak inside biodiversity; the destruction is likely in Chilean towns and
smaller glaciers. Here a ice waterfall is to cause ripples in other habitats as cities, hydroelectric dams may be a
shown (right). necessary evil to allow the contin-
Chile fears the repercussion of the ued development of Chile and its
Firstly, what are the positive as- dam on the salmon habitats. Stud- freedom from foreign energy de-
pects of the project? In Chile in the ies have shown that dams along the pendence. Some in the economically
next ten years, an annual increase depressed regions surrounding the
of six to eight percent in electric- America have reduced salmon proposed dam locations are eager
ity consumption is expected. This populations by preventing access to to welcome the employment the
corresponds to an annual growth in spawning grounds upstream. Fish dams will provide. Displacement of
power plant capacity on the order ladders that have been installed to local populations is expected due
11. Concerning the displacement of these farmers will testify, its re-
that adequate replacement housing and destruction of people, Sin wards are great. One farmer would
will not be provided, in addition to Represas stated “we at Sin Represas, boast how long it had been since he
the proper compensation of farm- and the people of Aysén, whose old- had gone to town. Nearing the one-
land lost to the dams. Many in the world existence may one day soon month mark, he wore his seclusion
tourism industries are worried that be destroyed by those old-world as a badge of honor, showing his
the power lines will dampen their energy solutions.” The organization true commitment to the land.
C
industry, especially when they are is referencing Chile’s strong pastoral hile has a strong agricul-
trying to promote ecological tour- communities who have subsisted on ture history and currently
ism, or eco-tourism. herding and agriculture for genera- exports forty-two percent
tions and continue to do so today. of its food to the Americas, thirty
Sin Represas (Without Dams) com- These agricultural communities also percent to Asia and twenty-four
mands large crowds during it’s many provide a strong draw for eco-tour- percent to Europe [2]. Gaining a 23
ists, particularly their participation billion dollar trade surplus in 2006,
demonstrations in Santiago (left).The in the Worldwide Opportunities on the Chilean government invests a
marches and demonstrations remain Organic Farms (WWOOF) organi- lot in industrial farms. With brands
relatively peaceful with Chile’s police on zation. like Super Pollo, a subsidiary of
patrol (right). WWOOF offers a rare possibil- Agricorps the largest industrial
ity to today’s increasingly urban agriculture brand in Chile, com-
Sin Represas (Without Dams) generation, a chance for people to manding 550 million US Dollars in
is a collection of organizations seek- get out of the urban jungle and into yearly sales, competition is impos-
ing to put an end to the HidroAysén the pastures and prairies where we sible for small organic farms. These
project. While noting the possibil- farms can only realistically hope to
ity of employment for the region, farms and eager volunteers across supply local farmers markets and a
Sin Represas reports an April 2008 all seven continents, with a total of
ninety-nine participating countries.
percent of Chileans against the WWOOF was originally started in
dams. Sin Represas implores Chile 1971 by a London secretary look-
to focus their energies towards ing to offer urban dwellers access to
renewable power sources and eco- the countryside. Volunteering for a
tourism; two avenues Sin Represas small farm puts you in touch with
believes will provide the power and people who are following a lifestyle
development needed to continue not chosen by many because of its
Chile’s development[3]. arduous requirements, but as many
13. few stores. Francisco Rottman, the their frustration with being entirely for a great citrus fertilizer. As fertil-
owner of the Chilean farm, Granja - izer is expensive, any cost-saving
Organica, earns most of his income tor had broken down three months technique is adopted.
from the farm stand he operates off earlier and was still sitting unused. Two interns visiting La Granja
his property; selling around sixty- Their hope was a volunteer from Organica from a local agricultural
WWOOF with mechanical skills school introduced me to their fer-
- would arrive and bring it back to tilizer technique. Using chicken
cent at a small store, Tienda Tierra life. wire as a form, they layered animal
Viva in Santiago Central. At the end Manuel was very inventive waste, leaves, and any leftover or-
of each harvest Rottman said he was with the limited tools in his pos- ganic food scraps to create a putrid
just happy to break even. session. He was unable to afford a parfait. Most important was the staff
The horses of Los Lagartos are alowed steel plow; I watched him instead left in the center, which would be
fashion a plow out of pine branches pulled out once the fertilizer settled
to run wild, considering the thick brush
and attach it to one of their horses. so as to allow air to circulate and
of the surrounding native forests keep Though it cost no money it was still feed the aerobic bacteria which de-
them contained. Here Giulia’s favorite able to effectively till the soil and composing material. Taking three to
black stallion can be seen trotting to- he left the larger stones for myself
wards the watering hole. and the other WWOOFers. Innova- allows La Granja Organic to save
tions like this are necessary among money and avoid buying expensive
Nearby Granja Organíca, the the South American organic farm- organic fertilizers.
owners Manuel and Giulia Rodri- ers. Without access to the growing
guez of the farm Los Lagartos (The organic market in the United States,
Lizards) owners, have adapted a Canada and Europe, these farmers “organic.” For many it’s a matter of
lifestyle devoted to farming in its have very little income. choice, due to the high price of seeds
F
simplest form and are trying to aced with the same income and extremely hardy pesticides. The
eliminate monetary transactions all problems on La Granja Or-
together. Moving away from the air- ganica, they too embraced any lost crops. Those at Los Lagartos
conditioned tractor lifestyle that has innovation. While strolling through -
come to dominate industrial farm- their land, I found the chickens cides sprayed on nearby farms being
ing Manuel and Giulia are looking fenced in with the citrus trees. This
to develop a spiritual relationship is struck me as an odd place for the
with the land, allowing it to reward chickens, and when I asked Rottman surrounding labeling of an organic
their devotion and hard labor with about the odd pen, I was informed food is another issue arresting the
a bountiful harvest. Still they shared that their high nitrogen feces makes proliferation of organic farmers.
15. These farmers are a strong kilometers trail, The Chilean Trail, major travel and eco-tourism draw
foothold in the rural communities from Visviri, on the northern Chil- for both Chileans and Foreigners
of central and southern Chile. These ean border with Peru and Bolivia, alike. Many of the parks contain
are the communities that would to Cape Horn, the southern tip of millenarian forests and have at-
South America. This trail will be tracted biologists on a search for the
eco-tourism options in and around one of the longest pathways in the world’s oldest trees long before the
these areas. The income brought world for hiking or tours on bicycle arrival tourists. Those less interested
in from tourism, would go a long in science, go to towns such as Vall-
way in preserving the land, and the sustainable development initia- rica and Pucón for stunning vistas,
agricultural way of life followed tives was inaugurated on April 7, native wildlife, and adventure. I
by many in Chile. There are many 2005 in the town of Requinoa, some was fortunate to grab a few days
who support eco-tourism, including 100 kilometers south of Santiago. away from Santiago and sample a
governmental actors, environmental CONAMA and UNDP signed an sliver of this region at the small vil-
activists, and the farmers mentioned agreement in late 2004 to provide lage of Pucón. In Pucón, tourists are
above. The problem now is getting able to spend all their time lounging
these different actors to work to- for a total investment of 310,000 dol- by one of the many lakes, rafting
gether. lars. Irene Philippi, UNDP resident on the rivers, soaring through the
representative in Chile described canopy on zip-lines or for the truly
The land of Los Lagartos provided con- the project as ‘’on the path of eco- -
stant activity for volunteer WWOOFers. tourism and sustainability.’’ ‘’It cano, Volcan Vallrica, to gaze into its
smoking chasm. I opted for some-
Freshly planted avocado trees required
greater value to the Chilean Trail, thing a tad less strenuous, or so I
covering at night to protect against cold. bring revenues into its communities believed.
Waiting till sunrise to remove the pro- and protect the environment.’’ This Through the hostel, Ecolé, I dis-
tective covers. push shows the governments com- covered the Cani Sanctuary; a model
mitment to eco-tourism. If the gov- for conservation and its potential
Chile has garnered international ernment combines their power with in Chile. Found in the Huerquehue
support for their bid to provide the devotion of it’s people, eco-tour- National Park, Cani offers a six-hour
ecologically sound options for visi- ism can become a viable and strong hike through a well-marked path ac-
tors to their county. With help from industry for Chile. companied by photo-friendly wild-
S
the United Nations Development outh of Santiago lies the lake life and plenty of cows. Ecolé has
Programme (UNDP), Chile’s Na- region of Chile. The amazing long held a stake in the Sanctuary.
tional Environment Commission landscape and diverse choices The original forty-two co-owners,
(CONAMA) has planned an 8,000 of activities has made this region a both foreigners and locals, were all
17. conservation-minded people com- our money where our mouth is and organic growing. More income and
ing down to Chile to build trails in move forward the environmental organization is needed to advance
the Cani. One of the original found- tourism agenda.” the organic agenda.
ers, Tracy Katelman, described the Through their vegetarian res- Katelmen continued to express
taurant, the hostelowners have been her frustration with being more en-
born out of the desire for a clean hard-pressed to start a change in vironmental. “It’s hard to be really
bed and warm meal when they got they way food is handled in Chile. Eco in Chile…[we’ve] made a real
off the trail each day. So they con- Katelman discussed her worries effort to recycling and composting
verted their old haunt, Don Pepe’s, with “promoting [Ecolé] as an or- going in Pucón.” By showing an
into an eco-minded hostel with an ganic restaurant.” Many of the local interest in recycling, now people are
organic vegetarian restaurant. Some crops are being infested by the coming by to pick up Ecolé’s wine
of the guidebooks claim the vegetar- Pilme beetle, a “strong little critter” bottles. Ecolé also has the obligatory
ian food is better than that of San that as of now can only be stopped low-energy light bulbs. They do not
Francisco and New York. by chemical pesticide. Though she change the sheets, but instead offer
did mention a neighbor who had sleeping bags for renting. During
Manuel was trained as a chef before a homegrown recipe consisting of the winter, the hostel is heated by
becoming an organic farmer.Visitors old cigarette butts, which may be wood stove. Looking to improve
were treated daily to delicious meals a possible remedy to the infesta- their hostel more, the co-owners of
prepared with ingredients grown right tion. With the beetle infestation, the Ecolé had planned to install solar
outside.The only outside purchases farmers also have a problem with panels and create a yoga studio, as
meeting food demands. They just well as a laundry room. Due to the
were sugar and butter.
cannot produce enough to provide economic crisis that has shocked
Ecolé and other organic restaurants. the world, however, they have had
Ecolé and its owners have been Katelman spoke of an attempt by to put the plan on hold for the time
a strong force in the surrounding the Komkellayen organization to being.
E
areas. In August 2008 they managed pull together Mapuche, those indig- colé is certainly a testament
to suspend a developer’s decision to enous to central Chile, producers to the changing mindset in
dam up a river delta in Cola Cola, in and possibly win a national grant, Chile, but also shows how far
but unfortunately the plan fell apart. they have to go. Alas, it is essential
Many of the small growers also suf- to plant the seeds of conservation in
Through their hostel they are trying fer from logistical problems, such developing countries. More so, this
to get people out to the Cani and as distribution. She believes, “Chile is not an example of the “enlight-
educate them about the wildlife. is at least twenty years behind the ened westerner” coming into the
Katelman said it was “time to put [United States]” when it comes to country and dictating was is right,
19. but an example of both local Chil- build an addition to his house for his pushing for more conservation in Chile
eans and foreigners working side ill daughter. Habitat for Humanity’s and setting a trend for all of South
by side to preserve this beautiful volunteer coordinator, informed me the America. Their model of dedication
existing space of the house was unsuit- to the environmental cause is what is
tourists, dedicated locals can use the able for the betterment of the daugh- motivating larger organizations like Sin
income to educate tourists on the ter’s health. Repreasas to combat the destructive
Habitat for Humanity organized plans of the HidroAysén project.
to keep it going. Chilean students from a local trade The support of eco-tourists is what
school along with a British volunteer to is pushing to keep global environ-
British volunteer, Gareth Tye, is being build the additional room. Gareth Rich- ments pure. As global superpowers
taught how to tile by a Chilean student outsource their pollution and waste to
from a local trade school (left).The lan- was looking to travel around South
America and thought this would serve
guage barrier led to most lessons tak-
as a good introduction to the culture
ing twice as long as expected. Newly and an opportunity to learn Spanish.
sprouted plants on La Granja Organíca Many of these volunteer tourists are
ware kept in a warehouse until ready jaded from the sanitized tourists trails
for planting (right). and prefer to get to know a city from
the bottom up. This is considered eco-
Volunteer work is a large draw for tourism, as it doesn’t negatively impact
eco-tourists as it offers the excitement the environment of the destination.
of a foreign country while offering Giving back to the community instead
tourists a chance to give something of isolating yourself in a high-class
other than economic support. Many resort, offers more to the people. second and third world counties, it’ll
O
organizations offer programs connect- rganizations like WWOOF be eco-tourists who give these nations
ing tourists with local or international and Habitat for Humanity a reason to refuse. Restoring pride it a
groups. One such group I became provide outlets for tourists nation’s wilderness, eco-tourists can
involved with is the international and local alike to reach out to both an provide the income needed for people
organization, Habitats for Humanity. urban and rural community showing to pursue ecologically sound paths of
They were working in Santiago to aid devotion to their fellow human beings. development. All the while, it is essen-
lower class families in need of more People like Tracy Katelmen, Francisco tial that these tourists remember that
space due to special cases. I met the Rottman, and Manuel and Giulia they are not superior, and must work
father of one of these families, who was Rodriguez are the driving force behind alongside the locals in preserving the
happy to have Habitats for Humanity the grassroots movement; they are environment and it’s natural beauties.
21. References
[1] – United States. Department of
State. Bureau of Western Hemisphere
Affairs. Background Note: Chile. 12
April 2010.
[2] – International Rivers. “HidroAy-
sén’s Severly Flawed Environmental
Study.” August 2008.
[3] – Sin Represas. “The Struggle.”
2009.
[4] – Portland General Electric. “San-
dy River – Marmot Dam’s removal
in 2007 has returned the Sandy River
2009
Outside Chile,Tourist attractions like
Peru’s Maachu Pichu foster detbates
over tourism and its potential dam-
age to historical treasures (left). Still,
impoverised cities like La Paz, Bolivia
earn many tourist dollars from this
tourism (right).The push towards more
eco-friendly tourism continues in Chile’s
northern neighbors.