1. Cape Town
South Africa
Student / Cultural
Guide 2012

2. Contents
Recap: Logistics on Arriving in Cape Town …………………………..... 3
Post-Apartheid South African Culture ………………………………...... 3
Suggested Books ………………………………....………...…..…. 3
Notes on Language ……………………………………...…..…..... 5
Safety in Cape Town ………………………....……………………....…. 8
Exercise and Sports ………………….………………………………….. 9
LGBTQ Life …………………………………………………………….. 9
Thinking about Cross-Cultural Service ………………………………... 10
Weather in Cape Town ……………………………………………........ 11
Packing List ……………………………………………………..…….... 12
Restaurants in Obs ………………………………………….………….. 13
Neighborhood Map ……………………………………………….…..... 14
Grocery stores, post offices, pharmacies, etc. ……………………..….. 15
Places for Visitors (or you!) to Stay ………………………………..…... 15
Places to Go ……………………………………………………….….….17
Websites to Checkout ……………………………………………….…. 18
A Few Frequently Asked Questions ……………………………….……18
“To Hell with Good Intentions”………………………………………... 20
2

3. Recap from Logistics Orientation – Arriving in
Cape Town
American students studying in South Africa for a period lasting up to 90 days are exempt from
obtaining a visa. A valid passport is all that is required for travel to, and throughout, the country.
You are NOT considered a student because you will not be enrolled at UCT (you’re a Stanford
student), therefore you do not need a student visa. SO, when you get to customs in South
Africa, tell them that HOLIDAY is your “purpose of visit”.
Bring photocopies of your passport and credit cards and keep them separate from your actual
passport and credit cards. These will be really important in the event that these things were lost.
Make sure to copy the backside of your credit card(s) as well -- often there is a bank phone
number there that you call if you need to cancel your card… but if you’ve lost the card, then it’s
hard to know the phone number without a copy!
Call your bank! Make sure they know you’ll be in South Africa so that they won’t cancel your
card when withdrawals are suddenly made in Cape Town!
Before you leave, make sure the student coordinator has your itinerary. Without it we won’t
know when to send someone to pick you up at the airport!
Post Apartheid South African Culture
South Africa is an incredibly diverse country ethnically – so there’s no one “South African
culture.” Illustrative of that fact are the eleven national languages of the country: English,
Afrikaans, Ndebele, Northern Sotho, Southern Sotho, Swazi, Tsongo, Tswana, Venda, Xhosa,
and Zulu. Many cultural differences in the country today correspond to the racial groups defined
by Apartheid (black, white, coloured, Indian/Asian); thus to begin to understand the complexity
of culture in the country, one should start by looking at South Africa’s history.
Read as much as you can about South Africa before and during your time in Cape Town;
your experience will only be made more valuable, the more you study the county, it’s history,
politics, and people…
Here are a few suggested books (by no means an exhaustive list):
Histories and Reference:
A Human Being Died that Night: A South African Story of Forgiveness, Pumla Gobodo-
Madikizela: Gobodo-Madikizela, a psychologist who grew up in a black South African
township, reflects on her interviews with Eugene de Kock, the commanding officer of
state-sanctioned death squads under apartheid.
3

4. A Concise History of South Africa, Robert Ross: a succinct synthesis of Southern African
history from the introduction of agriculture about 1 500 years ago up to and including the
government of Thabo Mbeki. Stressing economic, social, cultural and environmental
matters as well as political history, it shows how South Africa has become a single country.
Crossing the Line by William Finnegan: An illuminating, engaging account of the year
(1980) the 27-year-old American author spent teaching at a “coloured” high school near
Cape Town.
I Write What I Like, Steve Biko: a selection of Biko's writings from 1969, when he became
the president of the South African Student Organization to 1972, when he was prohibited
from publishing. The collection reflects Biko's conviction that black people in South Africa
could not be liberated until they united to break their chains of servitude, a key tenet of the
Black Consciousness Movement that he helped found.
Khayelitsha: uMlungu in a Township, Steven Otter: follows a white South African into a
Cape Town township notorious amongst outsiders as the dwelling place of poverty, disease
and crime – where he proceeds to set up home.What Steven Otter finds in Khayelitsha –
which means “New Home” in Xhosa – is an often humorous display of contradictions, with
happiness, compassion and ubuntu thriving side-by-side with the tsotsis, HIV/Aids and
poverty.
* Long Walk to Freedom: The Autobiography of Nelson Mandela (Required)*
My Traitor's Heart by Rian Malan. A fascinating insight into apartheid South Africa by a
young Afrikaner struggling with his identity and legacy of racism.
The Bang-Bang Club: The Making of the New South Africa by Greg Marinovich and Joao
Silva: An honest account of South Africa's transition from apartheid to black majority rule
told through the eyes of four young photographers.
Fiction / Historical Fiction (a few among many…)
Coconut Kopano Matlwa: An important rumination on youth in modern-day South Africa,
this haunting debut novel tells the story of two extraordinary young women who have
grown up black in white suburbs and must now struggle to find their identities.
Country of My Skull: Guilt, Sorrow, and the Limits of Forgiveness in the New South
Africa Antjie Krog: Krog, a prominent South African poet and journalist, led the South
African Broadcasting Corporation team that for two years reported daily on the hearings of
the Truth and Reconciliation Commission (TRC).
Cry, The Beloved Country Alan Paton: Review 'A beautiful novel, rich firm and
moving...compelling' New York Times. 'Cry, The Beloved Country...was the great raiser of
popular awareness of South Africa...the most influential South African novel ever written'
Nadine Gordimer, Observer.
4

5. Disgrace J.M. Coetzee: (winner of the 1999 Booker Prize) Set in post-apartheid Cape Town
and on a remote farm in the Eastern Cape, this is a novel about a man and his personal
journeys of love, grace, and disgrace in the new South Africa.
July's People Nadine Gordimer
Kikuyu Etienne van Heerden: This is the story of a boy's life on an Afrikaner farm in the
Karoo desert. As a fictional representation, it offers fascinating insight into the struggle of
an Afrikaner boy as he grows up during the Apartheid years.
Mind Your Colour by V.A. February : is about the creation and maintenance of a cultural
stereotype. It deals with the people classified by South African racial legislation as
'coloureds', and with the image forced upon them by South African society, an image which
reflects and reinforces the political subordination of the group.
Spud John van de Ruit: It’s 1990. Apartheid is crumbling. Nelson Mandela has just been
released from prison. And Spud Milton, thirteen-year-old, prepubescent choirboy
extraordinaire is about to start his first year at an elite boys-only boarding school in South
Africa.
Three Letter Plague Jonny Steinberg: Groundbreaking work of reportage about pride and
shame, sex and death, and the Aids pandemic in Africa is a masterpiece of social
observation.
If you’re interested in reading more, feel free to ask anyone on the Cape Town staff for more
recommendations!
Some notes on language:
The languages primarily spoken in Cape Town and the surrounding regions (where you
will be spending the majority of your time) are English, Afrikaans, and Xhosa. Generally
in this region, Afrikaans is spoken by white South Africans and by people classified as
coloured, while Xhosa tends to be spoken by black South Africans. However, regardless
of primary language, people usually speak and understand English to the extent where
you won’t have much of a problem. In the townships you may run into more difficulty
with the language barrier.
There are several words/phrases in each language (including English) that are good to
know and that you will probably become very familiar with:
English Words and Phrases Izzit/Isit = Really?
Boot/Bonnet = Trunk/Hood of the car Jersey = Sweatshirt
Costume = bathing suit Now = Really soon, but not this moment
Flat = Apartment Just now = Sometime in the nearish future
Howsit = Hey, what’s up (common greeting)
5

6. Now now = Sometime…who knows when Tik = Methamphetamine (a growing
Lift = Elevator problem in many townships)
Xhosa words and phrases
English Continued… “Amandla”… “Awethu” = “Power”… “To
Robot = Traffic Light the people” *
Sister = Nurse Unjani = How are you
Take Away = Take Out Molo/Molweni = Hello (to one person or a
Tomato Sauce = Ketchup group, respectively)
Torch = Flashlight Ndiphilile/Ndiyaphila = I’m fine/alive
Enkosi (kakhulu) = Thank you (very much)
Afrikaans words and phrases Ubuntu = compassion, humanity; ‘I am who
Bakkie = a small pick-up truck I am because of who we are’
Biltong = Jerky (e.g. beef, ostrich, etc.) Umlungu = White person
Braai = Barbecue Uxolo = I’m sorry
Breu = Brother Yebo = Yeah
Dankie = Thank you
Lekker = Nice * A cheer done responsively, frequently
Tekkies = Sneakers done at marches, protests, etc.; has roots in
the anti-apartheid movement
Academic Vocabulary
It’s also important for you to know a little bit about the vocabulary used to talk about
academics here in South Africa:
School: the word used for elementary and middle school, as well as high school to an
extent. You, as a Stanford student, are no longer in “school.” If you say “I go to school in
California,” South African will be confused that you haven’t yet graduated from high
school.
Learners: a common term used for students, usually those still in “school.” You can use
the term “student” to refer to yourself.
Matric: the matric exam is the national exam that South African high school students
must pass in order to graduate from school. Good matric scores are essential for getting
into university. Each year, the names of the students who pass matric are published in the
newspaper.
1st year – 4th year: In South Africa, the four years in college are NOT called freshman,
sophomore, junior and senior. Instead, the are simply referred to as 1st year, 2nd year, 3rd
year and 4th year. So you’re unlikely to be understood if you say “I’m a sophmore in
HumBio,” instead say: “I’m a second year at Stanford University studying Human
Biology.”
6

7. University: Pretty straight forward, this is what you call Stanford or UCT (reminder:
Stanford wouldn’t be referred to as a “school” here).
Faculties: UCT is divided into seven different “faculties” – The Centre for Higher
Education Development, Commerce, Engineering & the Built Environment, Health
Sciences, Humanities, Law, and Science. Within those faculties there are different
departments (e.g. Languages & Literature or History within Humanities). This is a little
different from Stanford, where we just refer to our individual majors.
NATIONAL ANTHEM OF SOUTH AFRICA
This is the official version of the national anthem, combining Nkosi sikelel’ iAfrika
and Die Stem/The Call of South Africa.
Xhosa English Translation:
Nkosi sikelel’ iAfrica. Lord, bless Africa
Maluphakanyisw’ uphondo lwayo. Let her horn/banner be raised
Yizwa imithandazo yethu, Hear our prayers
Nkosi sikelela, thina lusapho lwayo. Lord bless us, her family
Sotho
Morena boloka setjhaba sa heso, Lord, save our nation
O fedise dintwa le matshwenyeho. Stop the wars and suffering
O se boloke, o se boloke setjhaba sa heso, Save it, save it, our nation
Setjhaba sa South Africa, South Africa. The nation of South Africa
Afrikaans
Uit die blou van onse hemel From the blue of our heavens
Uit die diepte van ons see, From the depth of our seas
Oor ons ewige gebergtes, Over our eternal mountains
Waar die kranse antwoord gee, Where the cliffs echo back
English
Sounds the call to come together, Sounds the call to come together,
And united we shall stand, And united we shall stand,
Let us live and strive for freedom, Let us live and strive for freedom,
In South Africa our land. In South Africa our land
7

8. Safety in Cape Town
This list of do’s and don’ts is in your logistics packet, but it bears repeating. The BOSP
staff in Cape Town will be a great resource to you, and help you learn to navigate
safely during your quarter. Cape Town is a large, metropolitan area. Like most big
cities, it is important to be aware of your surroundings and be “street smart.” Some
general safety tips:
• NEVER walk alone outside of the UCT campus, especially at night. Walk with at
least TWO other individuals.
• During research project / service-learning work, utilize local hosts as 'guides' and
travel with them whenever possible.
• DO NOT wear flashy jewelry; be aware of where your valuables are and NEVER
leave your things unattended, even on campus.
•
• DO NOT use your cell phone in crowded areas outside of campus; cell phones are
particularly vulnerable to theft in Cape Town.
• It's generally not a good idea to pull out a map as it alerts those around you to the
fact that you are a tourist. If you need to consult a map, duck into a shop to check.
• Make use of program-approved taxis and Jammie Shuttle whenever possible.
Mini-taxes and train are ok when traveling together during the day.
• If you are taking a tour (i.e. in and around the City Center and/or surrounding
townships) stick closely with your tour group.
• Pay attention to those around you; be wary of people approaching you trying to
sell you things.
• One-shoulder purses are particularly easy to snatch. If you have a purse that goes
across your body, it is a better idea to wear it.
• It’s a good idea to have a computer lock to secure your laptop to your desk.
• Backpacks are also vulnerable, especially in crowds. Some students have had
success using key rings or backpack locks to close their bags. Messenger bags that
are worn at the side can also be useful
8

9. Exercise and Sports
Cape Town is a very active city full of people who participate in a variety of sports. You
might get involved through:
• Running. It is safe to run for exercise during the day, though it is always
recommended to run at least in pairs if not in a larger group. There is a nice path
along the river by the Stanford house which is frequented by local and foreign
exercisers, and the run to Rhodes Memorial is a good one if you enjoy hills. If you
can get to it, Seapoint’s promenade is great for long seaside runs. However, it is
important to stay aware of your surroundings. The river banks and trailsides host
many bushes and obstructions that muggers or other people might hide behind to
surprise joggers.
• UCT gym and clubs. Stanford students can join myriad UCT teams and clubs.
• Rock climbing and yoga gym near the train tracks in Obs.
• Hiking, swimming, surfing and other outdoor sports
.
• Soccer. Many local and international students in the area enjoy soccer (still often
called soccer here, not football) and organize low-stakes matches with local
teams.
LGBTQ Life
Cape Town is often known as a “pink city” and is considered by many to be the most
LGBTQ-friendly city in Africa. However, even though SA’s progressive constitution
renders homophobic discrimination illegal, it’s important to be aware that many residents
don’t share these institutionalized ideals. Phenomena like “corrective rape” of lesbian
women and blatant bigotry are still a problem, particularly in township communities.
However, you might take advantage of Cape Town’s queer-friendly culture through:
• Greenpoint. This neighborhood in town hosts Beefcakes (a Chip-n-Dales-esque
diner), Bubbles Bar (which features daily drag shows), Bronx and Crew (clubs
for a night out)
• Gay Flag of South Africa. This campaign raises money to fight discrimination
by selling SA “gay flags”. Learn more at gayflagofsouthafrica.co.za.
• Triangle Project. This NGO is based in the same business complex as the
Stanford Centre and offers a library of queer-focused books and films.
9

10. Thinking about Cross-Cultural Service
HOW WE CAN ACT CONSTRUCTIVELY IN
CROSS-CULTURAL SITUATIONS
(From the School for International Training)
Use stereotypes as categories to be broken down, not built up. Start out with an
acknowledgement of the existence of stereotypes, identify their positive and negative
aspects from both points of view.
Don’t compare apples and oranges. The inherent differences between cultures may
make valid comparison impossible. The way something is done within the cultural and
environmental setting of one country may not be adaptive in another setting.
Get to know people as individuals, not as examples of a culture. Remember that even
though there seem to be some generalizations to be made about any cultural group,
individuals maintain a uniqueness within their own culture. No one individual is going to
be a perfect example of that ethnic group.
Take the initiative to be friendly. Bridging the cultural gap begins with overcoming that
fear of something new or different. A positive, friendly attitude will be very helpful.
Especially if you are in the minority group, remember that the majority doesn’t need to
gain your acceptance, so it’s even more important to be open.
Explain some facets of yourself if necessary. Let people know what makes you
different from the stereotype, especially if you think you fall well outside the cultural
norm.
Don’t attempt to obliterate differences. We can all learn from different cultures.
Remember that you are a sum of your lifetime of experience, both good and bad, within
your own culture. You can’t just step out of that position and become totally objective.
Don’t try to become one of the locals. Sometimes your attempts to mimic another culture
can backfire, appearing as offensive. Cultural diversity is just as adaptive as biological
diversity.
Forge bonds with people in similar circumstances. Riding a bus together, taking some
course, shopping – these situations give you common experiences and a starting point for
conversation.
Focus on a common task. Working together toward a common goal can help break
down barriers.
** See Ivan Illich’s “To Hell with Good Intentions,” attached at the end of this
packet. **
10

11. Weather in Cape Town
Cape Town weather is very similar to Stanford’s. Winters (June-August) are fairly mild (in the
50’s) and wet. Summers (December-February) are warm and much drier.
Weather in Cape Town, South Africa (from http://www.bbc.co.uk/weather/)
Temperature Wet
Average Discomfort Relative Average
Days
Month Sunlight Average Record from heat humidity Precipitation
(+0.25
(hours) Min Max Min Max and humidity am pm (mm)
mm)
Jan 11 61 78 44 99 Moderate 72 54 15 3
Feb 10 61 78 41 100 Moderate 77 54 8 2
March 9 57 77 43 102 Moderate 85 57 18 3
April 8 53 71 37 102 - 90 60 48 6
May 6 48 66 30 95 - 91 65 79 9
June 6 46 64 28 84 - 91 64 84 9
July 6 44 17 28 84 - 91 67 89 10
Aug 7 46 64 30 89 - 90 65 66 9
Sept 8 48 64 34 93 - 87 62 43 7
Oct 9 52 70 34 89 - 79 58 31 5
Nov 10 55 73 39 93 - 74 56 18 3
Dec 11 57 75 41 100 Moderate 71 54 10 3
11

12. Packing List
**Important note on packing** TRY NOT TO OVERPACK! Research the baggage
limitations of the airlines you’re flying with – most charge large fees if you go over that limit.
Also, you may want to bring home gifts and souvenirs, so it’s helpful to go over with room in
your bags.
Clothing – Pack according to the weather q Any prescription medications you
information above need (also bring a copy of the
prescription signed by your doctor)
q Shorts / Skirts / Dresses / Pants
q South African
q T-shirts
electrical adaptor
q A couple more formal outfits --You’ll be (these can also be
spending part of your time in a professional purchased cheaply
setting (e.g. community organizations) once in SA) – do
Capetonians tend to be more laid back than not bring small
Johannesburg counterparts, but ‘business electronic appliances (e.g., hairdryer,
casual’ is generally upheld in work hair straightener); they will not work
environments. with the SA electricity grid…buy
them there from Clicks or similar
q Sweatshirts/jackets
q Swimsuit – we’re near some of the q Any toiletries that you want
in a certain American brand
most beautiful beaches in the world
(e.g. contact solution, over-
q Comfortable walking shoes, sandals, the-counter medications)
one pair of nicer shoes
Important Documents
Other Useful Items q Passport
q Water bottle q Debit / Credit cards – it’s good to
have a back up card
q Headlamp or flashlight
q Computer / Computer Lock q Photocopies of your passport, credit
cards, and IDs
q Umbrella
q Camera
Examples of things that can be
q Extra small duffle bag for short trips (i.e.
purchased IN Cape Town
the Bing trip) – also good for “spill over”
stuff you have on the way home!
Soap, toothpaste, lotion, razors,
q Mesh laundry bag feminine products, other basic
personal hygiene items, cosmetics,
laundry detergent, school supplies.
12

13. Observatory (Obs/Obz), Our Home
The Stanford house and center are in an “urban village” known as Observatory. A short
drive from the city center in one direction and townships in the other, Obs is a bohemian
neighborhood that was historically mixed-race during apartheid. Home to many students
and a great nightlife, Obs is a desirable place to live for locals and visitors alike!
Restaurants in the Obs Area
(And there are many more than this to explore…)
Obz Café Baboo
Coffee bar & restaurant. In the heart of lower main. It is an
115 Lower Main Road, Observatory Italian restaurant, offering a great selection of
pizza and pasta. Two for one on pizza daily
Mango Ginger before 8pm. The bar area is Obs’ trendiest bar,
Bakery and local/healthy food café. and offers a selection of cocktails, with
105 Lower Main Road, Observatory comfortable seating a flat screen tvs.
Mimi's Deli and Café Blue Marlin
Breakfast all day, good sandwiches and Sushi and Asian food restaurant and cocktail
homemade smoothies bar. Also offers a take out menu.
Lower Main Road, Observatory
Sushi Zone
Cafe Ganesh Asian -- Japanese, Chinese, Korean menus.
Unique down to earth African no nonsense place 34 Lower Main Road, Observatory
for local artists, writers, performers foreign laid
back visitors and local students. Kuai
66 Lower Main road/Trill Road, Observatory Health Food – breakfast/lunch/dinner. Yummy
smoothies, burgers, etc.
Pancho's Shop 7 Rondebosch Village Main Road
Mexican Restaurant, comfy & casual Rondebosch
127 Lower Main Road, Observatory
Nandos in Rondebosch
Coco Cha Chi Fast food type chain – their signature is chicken.
A favorite of the 2008 group. Free wifi (with Shop 18 Rondebosch Shopping Centre
purchase). Good breakfast/lunch, coffee. A few Main Road, Rondebosch
popular items: the chocolate pear muffin and the
mango mint smoothie. Africa Cafe (for special occasions)
20 Lower Main Road, Observatory http://www.africacafe.co.za/
Family style, price-fixed menu – they call it a
Touch of Madness “communal feast” consisting of traditional
Casual bistro, lunch and dinner. Ndebele, Xhosa and Zulu dishes (you get a small
12 Nuttal Rd., Observatory taste of everything) Incredible food!
108 Shortmarket St
Taste of Asia Cape Town City Centre, Cape Town
Sushi, Asian, Vegetarian for lunch or dinner
45 Lower Main Road Observatory ** Also, Obz has a McDonalds and KFC now,
if that’s your thing
13

14. EAST
NORTH SOUTH
Stanford House
14

15. Grocery stores, post offices, pharmacies,
etc.
Pick 'n Pay Kwikspar
Observatory, Shop 1, St Peter’s Square, 65 Station Rd
Cnr Main & Anzio Rd, Observatory Observatory
Pick n’ Pay is the equivalent to Safeway – Kwikspar, a relative of the bigger Spar chain
you can get all of your groceries there, as in South Africa, is smaller and maybe a bit
well as airtime for your cell phone and more expensive than Pick ‘n Pay. That said,
kitchen supplies (like Tupperware or coffee it’s about 2 blocks from the house, so very
cups). Remember to bring your recycled convenient.
bags, because groceries stores in South
Africa charge for new ones. Just 5-6 blocks
from the Stanford houses. Pharmacy
Closest is also in the same center as Pick n’
Post Office Pay (St Peter’s Square).
Located above the Pick n’ Pay in St Peter’s
Square (right near the Jammie stop)
Places to Stay
(For friends, family, or you should you be arriving early or staying
late!)
Koornhoop Manor House
Cnr Wrensch / London Roads
Observatory, Cape Town
(+27) 021-4480595
Just 2 minutes walk from the Stanford houses -- 8 en-suite double and single rooms and 2
large furnished self-catering apartments (3 bedrooms, lounge and kitchen). Offers a full-
spread continental breakfast, secure parking, a beautiful big garden to relax in, and
personalized service from hosts - Vic and Trish Smith
33 South Boutique backpackers
33 South, 48 Trill Road
Observatory, Cape Town
(+27) 21 447 24 23
email: info@33southbackpackers.com
15

16. http://www.33southbackpackers.com/
Opened at the end of 2007, just around the corner from the Stanford houses. "Boutique
Backpackers" is a new concept which describes 33 South's ideal: a trendy, themed,
stylish, clean, comfortable (boutique) establishment which still maintains the key features
of a great backpackers: it's homely, communal, affordable, safe and has a self-catering
option. We invite you to see Cape Town through local eyes, and experience it as a proud
South African would.
Brentwood Guest house
+27 (0) 21 448-8840
8 en suite double rooms (3 with fireplace). Home from home hospitality and value-for-
money accommodation. Dinner on request. No children under 12.
Little Scotia Guest house
5 Rustenburg Avenue
Rondebosch , Cape Town
Tel: (+27 21) 686 8245
email: scotia@new.co.za
http://www.scotia.co.za/
Fifteen guest-room B&B located in Rondebosch (two neighborhoods over from Obs).
“Little Scotia is a relaxed and homely Bed & Breakfast guest house in the heart of
historic Rondebosch on the doorstep of the University of Cape Town (UCT). The
homestead, though steeped in history, has been tastefully modernized.”
Aloe House B&B
Frank Gaude
12 Howe Street
Observatory, Cape Town
Tel: +27 214485337
E-Mail: frank@aloehouse.co.za
http://www.aloehouse.co.za
Small (2 room) guest house located 4 or 5 blocks away from the Stanford houses.
Wild sage Mountain B&B
70 Arnold Street
Observatory,Cape Town
Small B&B offering 2 self-catering apartments (each with 2 rooms). Also about 5 blocks
from the Stanford houses.
At Villa Garda B&B (Mowbray)
16

17. 5 Osborne Rd
Mowbray, Cape Town
Frederic Rusterholz
+27 21 762 1543
Villa Garda offers 7 fully decorated guest rooms all en-suite bathroom with shower.
Amenities in each room are aimed at maximising convenience and comfort for the guest.
About a 15-20 minute walk from the Stanford houses.
Malleson Garden Cottage ( Mowbray)
http://www.capetown-direct.com/mowbray/malleson-garden-cottage
11 Malleson Rd, Mowbray
Self-contained garden cottage. Double bedroom, separate bathroom, and an open plan
kitchen / lounge / dining room. Fully furnished and equipped. Linen and towels are
provided. The cottage is serviced / linens replaced twice per week. Secure off-street
parking is available.
Places to Go
Read your guidebook, talk to your professors and other locals – there are plenty of places
to see! Among my favorites:
• Table Mountain: (self explanatory) Incredible views of Cape Town … ride the
cable car up or talk to one of the BOSP staff about how to hike safely in the area.
http://tablemountain.net/
• Old Biscuit Mill: About a 30 min walk from the house. Produce, cheeses, artisan
breads, vintage collectables, etc. market, 9 a.m. – 2 p.m. on Saturdays. Turns into
a vintage fair on Sundays - Open the rest of the week with shops.
http://www.theoldbiscuitmill.co.za/
• District Six Museum: Very well thought-out museum about District 6
http://www.districtsix.co.za/frames.htm
• Mzoli’s in Gugulethu: Literally, you go into a butchers shop and pick out the
meat/sausage you want, then you go sit down while they barbeque it for you
(called Braai in South Africa)
• Around Cape Point: a good adventure to rent a bus for, and go on as a group
• Beaches: Cape Town has some of the most beautiful beaches in the world –
check out your guidebook for recommendations.
17

18. • Green Market Square: loads of traditional African art pieces, curios, and
everything else you would expect to find at a craft market. Very close to the
main downtown train station, and Long Street (a popular street for shopping and
going out at night)
• Kirstenbosch: South Africa’s incredibly beautiful national botanical garden, set
into the eastern side of Table Mountain. In the summer, there are outside
concerts at the Kirstenbosch amphitheater.
http://www.sanbi.org/frames/kirstfram.htm
• Two Ocean’s Aquarium: A great aquarium showcasing the animals living in
the Atlantic and Indian oceans that meet at the Cape Point
http://www.aquarium.co.za/
Websites to Check Out
University of Cape Town: http://www.uct.ac.za/
Information about societies and sports clubs, library info, daily news, etc.
Mail & Guardian: http://www.mg.co.za/ Well respected weekly newspaper. Started in
1985, the Mail & Guardian was widely read by those interested in South African politics.
South Africa: The Good News: http://www.sagoodnews.co.za
A news website that highlights the positive developments in South Africa.
City of Cape Town website: http://www.capetown.gov.za Keep up on local issues.
An assortment of other frequently asked
questions…
What should I know to become better acquainted with the people and culture of
Cape Town? (Adapted from UConn Cape Town Guide)
One of the biggest difficulties in adjustment that students experience in CPT is getting
use to the pace of life in the city. Cape Town and South Africa move on their own
timetable and things generally run a lot slower here. Once you adjust to it, it’s actually
really pleasant, described by many students as the best part of studying here.
With that in mind people generally try not to have incredibly hectic schedules like they
do in the states. So while each of you are probably used to having 15-18 hours of classes,
volunteering in your free time, and still making time for friends, etc, it just doesn’t work
here. It’s hard to explain but once you are here you’ll understand what I’m talking about.
18

19. Am I going to stand out as an American?
Yes. But this doesn’t have to be a bad thing. There are a lot of Americans here in Cape
Town, and American culture (music, dress, movies, celebrities) is well-known here.
People are generally curious to know more about you – so talk to them and hear what
some of their perceptions are!
Are there going to be any opportunities to travel outside of Cape Town while we are
there?
Yes, some. We will go on a Bing weekend trip during the quarter and there will be some
free weekends that you and your friend may want to use to rent a car and explore nearby
areas. It’s good to keep in mind though, that you’ll be doing a full Stanford course-load
while here (don’t worry, a good amount of the course work has you out in the
communities) so you’ll be busy!
Do I need to bring malaria pills?
You do NOT need malaria medicine for Cape Town (we don’t have the mosquitoes that
carry malaria here). If you are planning to travel to other parts of South Africa (e.g.
Kruger National Park) before, during, or after your quarter in Cape Town, you may need
malaria medicine. You can either bring some from the states, or buy it here.
What should I do about accessing money in Cape Town? What bank should I use?
Should I use an ATM card or a credit Card? Should I bring money or traveler’s
checks?
The best way to access money in Cape Town and South Africa is using an ATM. The
best strategy is to go once during the week and take out all the cash you will need for that
week. Then go home, put away your card and money in a safe place and only carry with
you the money you will need for that day.
Check with your bank about the foreign withdrawal fee. Some banks (e.g. Citibank and
the Stanford Federal Credit Union) don’t charge a fee, many others do. It may be worth
opening an account with the SFCU before leaving campus.
Do not bring traveler’s checks or a large sum of U.S. dollars to exchange – this will likely
be a hassle for you.
To what address can my friends and family send me mail while I’m in Cape Town?
Stanford Centre in Cape Town
(YOUR NAME)
P.O. Box 14041
Mowbray
Cape Town 7705
SOUTH AFRICA
19

20. To Hell with Good Intentions
by Ivan Illich
An address by Monsignor Ivan Illich to the Conference on InterAmerican Student
Projects (CIASP) in Cuernavaca, Mexico, on April 20, 1968. In his usual biting and
sometimes sarcastic style, Illich goes to the heart of the deep dangers of paternalism
inherent in any voluntary service activity, but especially in any international service
"mission." Parts of the speech are outdated and must be viewed in the historical context
of 1968 when it was delivered, but the entire speech is retained for the full impact of his
point and at Ivan Illich's request.
IN THE CONVERSATIONS WHICH I HAVE HAD TODAY, I was impressed by two things,
and I want to state them before I launch into my prepared talk.
I was impressed by your insight that the motivation of U.S. volunteers overseas springs mostly
from very alienated feelings and concepts. I was equally impressed, by what I interpret as a step
forward among would-be volunteers like you: openness to the idea that the only thing you can
legitimately volunteer for in Latin America might be voluntary powerlessness, voluntary presence
as receivers, as such, as hopefully beloved or adopted ones without any way of returning the gift.
I was equally impressed by the hypocrisy of most of you: by the hypocrisy of the atmosphere
prevailing here. I say this as a brother speaking to brothers and sisters. I say it against many
resistances within me; but it must be said. Your very insight, your very openness to evaluations of
past programs make you hypocrites because you - or at least most of you - have decided to spend
this next summer in Mexico, and therefore, you are unwilling to go far enough in your reappraisal
of your program. You close your eyes because you want to go ahead and could not do so if you
looked at some facts.
It is quite possible that this hypocrisy is unconscious in most of you. Intellectually, you are ready
to see that the motivations which could legitimate volunteer action overseas in 1963 cannot be
invoked for the same action in 1968. "Mission-vacations" among poor Mexicans were "the thing"
to do for well-off U.S. students earlier in this decade: sentimental concern for newly-discovered
poverty south of the border combined with total blindness to much worse poverty at home
justified such benevolent excursions. Intellectual insight into the difficulties of fruitful volunteer
action had not sobered the spirit of Peace Corps Papal-and-Self-Styled Volunteers.
Today, the existence of organizations like yours is offensive to Mexico. I wanted to make this
statement in order to explain why I feel sick about it all and in order to make you aware that good
intentions have not much to do with what we are discussing here. To hell with good intentions.
This is a theological statement. You will not help anybody by your good intentions. There is an
Irish saying that the road to hell is paved with good intentions; this sums up the same theological
insight.
The very frustration which participation in CIASP programs might mean for you, could lead you
to new awareness: the awareness that even North Americans can receive the gift of hospitality
without the slightest ability to pay for it; the awareness that for some gifts one cannot even say
"thank you."
Now to my prepared statement.
20

21. Ladies and Gentlemen:
For the past six years I have become known for my increasing opposition to the presence of any
and all North American "dogooders" in Latin America. I am sure you know of my present efforts
to obtain the voluntary withdrawal of all North American volunteer armies from Latin America -
missionaries, Peace Corps members and groups like yours, a "division" organized for the
benevolent invasion of Mexico. You were aware of these things when you invited me - of all
people - to be the main speaker at your annual convention. This is amazing! I can only conclude
that your invitation means one of at least three things:
Some among you might have reached the conclusion that CIASP should either dissolve
altogether, or take the promotion of voluntary aid to the Mexican poor out of its institutional
purpose. Therefore you might have invited me here to help others reach this same decision.
You might also have invited me because you want to learn how to deal with people who think the
way I do - how to dispute them successfully. It has now become quite common to invite Black
Power spokesmen to address Lions Clubs. A "dove" must always be included in a public dispute
organized to increase U.S. belligerence.
And finally, you might have invited me here hoping that you would be able to agree with most of
what I say, and then go ahead in good faith and work this summer in Mexican villages. This last
possibility is only open to those who do not listen, or who cannot understand me.
I did not come here to argue. I am here to tell you, if possible to convince you, and hopefully, to
stop you, from pretentiously imposing yourselves on Mexicans.
I do have deep faith in the enormous good will of the U.S. volunteer. However, his good faith can
usually be explained only by an abysmal lack of intuitive delicacy. By definition, you cannot help
being ultimately vacationing salesmen for the middle-class "American Way of Life," since that is
really the only life you know. A group like this could not have developed unless a mood in the
United States had supported it - the belief that any true American must share God's blessings with
his poorer fellow men. The idea that every American has something to give, and at all times may,
can and should give it, explains why it occurred to students that they could help Mexican peasants
"develop" by spending a few months in their villages.
Of course, this surprising conviction was supported by members of a missionary order, who
would have no reason to exist unless they had the same conviction - except a much stronger one.
It is now high time to cure yourselves of this. You, like the values you carry, are the products of
an American society of achievers and consumers, with its two-party system, its universal
schooling, and its family-car affluence. You are ultimately-consciously or unconsciously -
"salesmen" for a delusive ballet in the ideas of democracy, equal opportunity and free enterprise
among people who haven't the possibility of profiting from these.
Next to money and guns, the third largest North American export is the U.S. idealist, who turns
up in every theater of the world: the teacher, the volunteer, the missionary, the community
organizer, the economic developer, and the vacationing do-gooders. Ideally, these people define
their role as service. Actually, they frequently wind up alleviating the damage done by money and
21

22. weapons, or "seducing" the "underdeveloped" to the benefits of the world of affluence and
achievement. Perhaps this is the moment to instead bring home to the people of the U.S. the
knowledge that the way of life they have chosen simply is not alive enough to be shared.
By now it should be evident to all America that the U.S. is engaged in a tremendous struggle to
survive. The U.S. cannot survive if the rest of the world is not convinced that here we have
Heaven-on-Earth. The survival of the U.S. depends on the acceptance by all so-called "free" men
that the U.S. middle class has "made it." The U.S. way of life has become a religion which must
be accepted by all those who do not want to die by the sword - or napalm. All over the globe the
U.S. is fighting to protect and develop at least a minority who consume what the U.S. majority
can afford. Such is the purpose of the Alliance for Progress of the middle-classes which the U.S.
signed with Latin America some years ago. But increasingly this commercial alliance must be
protected by weapons which allow the minority who can "make it" to protect their acquisitions
and achievements.
But weapons are not enough to permit minority rule. The marginal masses become rambunctious
unless they are given a "Creed," or belief which explains the status quo. This task is given to the
U.S. volunteer - whether he be a member of CLASP or a worker in the so-called "Pacification
Programs" in Viet Nam.
The United States is currently engaged in a three-front struggle to affirm its ideals of acquisitive
and achievement-oriented "Democracy." I say "three" fronts, because three great areas of the
world are challenging the validity of a political and social system which makes the rich ever
richer, and the poor increasingly marginal to that system.
In Asia, the U.S. is threatened by an established power -China. The U.S. opposes China with
three weapons: the tiny Asian elites who could not have it any better than in an alliance with the
United States; a huge war machine to stop the Chinese from "taking over" as it is usually put in
this country, and; forcible re-education of the so-called "Pacified" peoples. All three of these
efforts seem to be failing.
In Chicago, poverty funds, the police force and preachers seem to be no more successful in their
efforts to check the unwillingness of the black community to wait for graceful integration into the
system.
And finally, in Latin America the Alliance for Progress has been quite successful in increasing
the number of people who could not be better off - meaning the tiny, middle-class elites - and has
created ideal conditions for military dictatorships. The dictators were formerly at the service of
the plantation owners, but now they protect the new industrial complexes. And finally, you come
to help the underdog accept his destiny within this process!
All you will do in a Mexican village is create disorder. At best, you can try to convince Mexican
girls that they should marry a young man who is self-made, rich, a consumer, and as disrespectful
of tradition as one of you. At worst, in your "community development" spirit you might create
just enough problems to get someone shot after your vacation ends_ and you rush back to your
middleclass neighborhoods where your friends make jokes about "spits" and "wetbacks."
You start on your task without any training. Even the Peace Corps spends around $10,000 on
each corps member to help him adapt to his new environment and to guard him against culture
shock. How odd that nobody ever thought about spending money to educate poor Mexicans in
22

23. order to prevent them from the culture shock of meeting you?
In fact, you cannot even meet the majority which you pretend to serve in Latin America - even if
you could speak their language, which most of you cannot. You can only dialogue with those like
you - Latin American imitations of the North American middle class. There is no way for you to
really meet with the underprivileged, since there is no common ground whatsoever for you to
meet on.
Let me explain this statement, and also let me explain why most Latin Americans with whom you
might be able to communicate would disagree with me.
Suppose you went to a U.S. ghetto this summer and tried to help the poor there "help
themselves." Very soon you would be either spit upon or laughed at. People offended by your
pretentiousness would hit or spit. People who understand that your own bad consciences push you
to this gesture would laugh condescendingly. Soon you would be made aware of your irrelevance
among the poor, of your status as middle-class college students on a summer assignment. You
would be roundly rejected, no matter if your skin is white-as most of your faces here are-or brown
or black, as a few exceptions who got in here somehow.
Your reports about your work in Mexico, which you so kindly sent me, exude self-complacency.
Your reports on past summers prove that you are not even capable of understanding that your
dogooding in a Mexican village is even less relevant than it would be in a U.S. ghetto. Not only is
there a gulf between what you have and what others have which is much greater than the one
existing between you and the poor in your own country, but there is also a gulf between what you
feel and what the Mexican people feel that is incomparably greater. This gulf is so great that in a
Mexican village you, as White Americans (or cultural white Americans) can imagine yourselves
exactly the way a white preacher saw himself when he offered his life preaching to the black
slaves on a plantation in Alabama. The fact that you live in huts and eat tortillas for a few weeks
renders your well-intentioned group only a bit more picturesque.
The only people with whom you can hope to communicate with are some members of the middle
class. And here please remember that I said "some" -by which I mean a tiny elite in Latin
America.
You come from a country which industrialized early and which succeeded in incorporating the
great majority of its citizens into the middle classes. It is no social distinction in the U.S. to have
graduated from the second year of college. Indeed, most Americans now do. Anybody in this
country who did not finish high school is considered underprivileged.
In Latin America the situation is quite different: 75% of all people drop out of school before they
reach the sixth grade. Thus, people who have finished high school are members of a tiny
minority. Then, a minority of that minority goes on for university training. It is only among these
people that you will find your educational equals.
At the same time, a middle class in the United States is the majority. In Mexico, it is a tiny elite.
Seven years ago your country began and financed a so-called "Alliance for Progress." This was
an "Alliance" for the "Progress" of the middle class elites. Now. it is among the members of this
middle class that you will find a few people who are willing to send their time with you_ And
they are overwhelmingly those "nice kids" who would also like to soothe their troubled
consciences by "doing something nice for the promotion of the poor Indians." Of course, when
you and your middleclass Mexican counterparts meet, you will be told that you are doing
23

24. something valuable, that you are "sacrificing" to help others.
And it will be the foreign priest who will especially confirm your self-image for you. After all,
his livelihood and sense of purpose depends on his firm belief in a year-round mission which is of
the same type as your summer vacation-mission.
There exists the argument that some returned volunteers have gained insight into the damage they
have done to others - and thus become more mature people. Yet it is less frequently stated that
most of them are ridiculously proud of their "summer sacrifices." Perhaps there is also something
to the argument that young men should be promiscuous for awhile in order to find out that sexual
love is most beautiful in a monogamous relationship. Or that the best way to leave LSD alone is
to try it for awhile -or even that the best way of understanding that your help in the ghetto is
neither needed nor wanted is to try, and fail. I do not agree with this argument. The damage
which volunteers do willy-nilly is too high a price for the belated insight that they shouldn't have
been volunteers in the first place.
If you have any sense of responsibility at all, stay with your riots here at home. Work for the
coming elections: You will know what you are doing, why you are doing it, and how to
communicate with those to whom you speak. And you will know when you fail. If you insist on
working with the poor, if this is your vocation, then at least work among the poor who can tell
you to go to hell. It is incredibly unfair for you to impose yourselves on a village where you are
so linguistically deaf and dumb that you don't even understand what you are doing, or what
people think of you. And it is profoundly damaging to yourselves when you define something
that you want to do as "good," a "sacrifice" and "help."
I am here to suggest that you voluntarily renounce exercising the power which being an American
gives you. I am here to entreat you to freely, consciously and humbly give up the legal right you
have to impose your benevolence on Mexico. I am here to challenge you to recognize your
inability, your powerlessness and your incapacity to do the "good" which you intended to do.
I am here to entreat you to use your money, your status and your education to travel in Latin
America. Come to look, come to climb our mountains, to enjoy our flowers. Come to study. But
do not come to help.
Ivan Illich is the author of Deschooling Society and other provocative books. Thanks to Nick
Royal, Tim Stanton, and Steve Babb for helping to find this speech.
Some Thought Questions:
1. Clearly, Illich’s address is given in 1963 to people going to Mexico for the summer – not
in 2010 to Stanford students going to Cape Town. But did anything ring true for you in
Illich’s speech? Did it anger you? With what parts do you agree/disagree?
2. Should we just not do “service” in other countries then? Is it possible to go about helping
a place that’s not your home? What does “service learning” mean to you?
24