This document summarizes a presentation on bitterness given at the Tales of the Cocktail conference in 2018. The presentation covered the science of bitterness, including how the human taste system works and the basic tastes. It discussed various bitter-tasting compounds and how they are extracted in making amari, liqueurs, and cocktail bitters. The panel then conducted a blind tasting experiment to rate different products on bitterness and sweetness perception. The presentation concluded by discussing the role of bitter flavors in contemporary cocktails.
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(Presentation available on Slideshare.net/AudreyFort)
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What is flavor?
Nose and mouth are closely linked
Smell + Taste = Flavor
Smell = 75% of food perception
Tongue
Olfactory
bulb
Olfactory
epithelium
Nerve
ending
Nasal
cavity
Tongue
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Astringency / Dryness from Proteins, Tannins, Tea
Coolness of Menthol
Burn of Capsicum & Chili Pepper
Carbonation Fizz from CO2
Tingle of a Szechuan Pepper
Chemesthesis
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The tongue map
“Lost in translation”
• The tongue map is a common
misconception
• 1901 German Psychologist Dieter
Hanig – work showed minute
threshold differences in threshold
taste detection.
• All taste sensations can come from
all regions of the tongue – some
areas are more sensitive to certain
tastes
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Sweet Bitter
Salty
Umami
Sucrose Caffeine
Sodium Chloride
L-Glutamate
Sour
Citric Acid
Ion Channels
G Protein Coupled Receptors (GPCR)
The basic tastes
Circumvallate
papillae
Foliate
papillae
Fungiform
papillae
Filiform
papillae
Taste
cells
Taste
pore
Gustatory
epithelium
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Quinine – From Cinchona
Naringin – From Grapefruit
Amarogentin – From Gentian
Quassin - From Quassia
Absinthin – From Wormwood
Iso-alpha acids – From Hops
Theobromine – From Chocolate
Caffeine – From Coffee
Our bitter tasting friends
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Why is taste provocative?
Odor
generated
feelings,
memories,
associations
Limbic System
Interaction of
molecules with
receptors
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Why is taste provocative?
Aroma triggers a memory and/or an emotion by
activating the olfactory pathways leading to the
limbic system
Neurotransmitters when released affect the brain
and influence our physical, mental and emotional
states
Strongest interconnections in the
brain are made between birth-10 years
Strongest memories of aroma
relate to early childhood
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Amaro/Amer/Amargo & cocktail bitters: a
loose definition
European legislation (CE) n° 110/2008: Bitter-tasting spirit
drinks or bitter
(a) Bitter-tasting spirit drinks or bitter are spirit drinks with a
predominantly bitter taste produced by flavouring ethyl alcohol
of agricultural origin with natural and/or nature-identical
flavouring substances as defined in)
(b) The minimum alcoholic strength by volume of bitter-tasting
spirit drinks or bitter shall be 15 %.
(c) Bitter tasting spirit drinks or bitter may also be sold under
the names ‘amer’ or ‘bitter’ with or without another
term.
US TTB: Bitters
Distilled spirits
product
distinguished by it
bitterness
produced by
blending extracts of
plants, seeds,
herbs, barks and/or
roots with any
class and/or type of
distilled spirits
US TTB: Liqueur
Flavored spirits product containing not less than 21% by weight
sugar, dextrose, levulose or a combination thereof made by
mixing or redistilling any class or type of spirits with or over
fruits, flowers, plants or pure juices therefrom or other natural
flavoring materials or with extracts derived from infusions,
percolation or maceration of such materials
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MACERATION
Botanicals are soaked in solvent @ < 35°C. Usually, some type of periodic agitation of the
solution takes place.
DIGESTION
Essentially the same process as maceration, but at temperatures between 40°C and 60°C
INFUSION
Boiling water is poured over the botanicals, steeping them like a tea. This takes place before
the addition of alcohol.
PERCOLATION
DECOCTION
Botanicals are boiled in water. This takes place before the addition of alcohol.
DISTILLATION
Also called displacement, this method extracts flavor by passing the solvent repeatedly
through a bed of botanicals.
Flavors/aromatics are concentrated through vaporization followed by condensation. This
method is not ideal for bitter components, as they are poorly volatile.
Bitter flavors extraction
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2
Bitter Compounds:
- soluble in low-to-medium-strength alcoholic solutions, usually < 60%
ABV.
- Poorly volatile -- do not distill well
Essential Oils:
- Soluble in high-strength alcoholic solutions, usually > 70% ABV
- Fat-soluble and volatile -- distill very well
2 main types of extracted chemical
compounds & their stylistic differences
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Editor's Notes
7
25 human G Protein coupled receptors mediate bitter taste (TAS2rS)
TR2 = bitter taste receptors
have a “two-sided” structure, where one binding area is broadly tuned to a range of different bitter-tasting molecules, while the other binding area is sensitive to a few key toxins. This gives our bitter
taste receptors both great sensitivity, and also the power to present an effective overview of the overall exposure to bitter compounds.
Almost anywhere in our bodies
at least 30 different receptors for bitter. Reflecting on the extensive variation in bitter receptors, in the number of taste cells and in the types of taste cells (each containing only one type of chemoreceptor), we can begin to see why individuals perceive foods differently.
Today test to demonstrate the phenotypic variation in sensory perception of the bitter. We will use a chemical called phenylthiocarbamide (PTC). PTC is a member of a large class of compounds characterized by their antithyroid properties and chemical structure
While the PTC gene has about 85% of the total influence over whether someone is a taster or a nontaster, there are many other things that affect PTC tasting ability. Having a dry mouth may make it more difficult to taste PTC. What you ate or drank before sampling PTC paper may also affect your tasting ability. And an individual's sensitivity may change over time. Some people may find that they can taste PTC on some days, but not on others.
1) Rinse your mouth with water prior to starting the experiment.
2) Taste the PTC paper and classify your bitter perception as taster, mild taster or nontaster.
Generally, people who find PTC paper very bitter are considered tasters, while those who find PTC paper without any flavor are considered nontasters. Those who find PTC paper mildly bitter and unpleasant should be characterized as mild tasters. Using these loose definitions, ~70-75% of the human population are tasters and 25-30% are nontasters.
Women are more likely to be supertasters than men
geneticists determined that there is an inherited component that influences how we taste PTC. Today we know that the ability to taste PTC (or not) is conveyed by a single gene that codes for a taste receptor on the tongue. The PTC gene, TAS2R38, was discovered in 2003.
There are two common forms (or alleles) of the PTC gene, and at least five rare forms. One of the common forms is a tasting allele, and the other is a non-tasting allele. Each allele codes for a bitter taste receptor protein with a slightly different shape. The shape of the receptor protein determines how strongly it can bind to PTC. Since all people have two copies of every gene, combinations of the bitter taste gene variants determine whether someone finds PTC intensely bitter, somewhat bitter, or without taste at all.
Studies indicate that individuals with the "strong tasters" PTC gene variant were less likely to be smokers. This may indicate that people who find PTC bitter are more likely than non-tasters to find the taste of cigarettes bitter and may be less likely to smoke. Other studies suggest that there may be correlations between the ability to taste PTC and preferences for certain types of foods. This may be why some of us think that broccoli is just too bitter to eat.
Combination of experiences, from early age (perhaps in utero), through education to maturity
"We're all programmed genetically to react negatively to bitter. Bitterness can indicate a poison or something that's toxic." (This is the prevailing sentiment, although one recent study raises
questions about that assumption.) As we grow older, we start to acquire a taste for it, she notes. "Your first sip of coffee, it's so bitter,'" But most people get used to that taste. And it helps that coffee
perks us up. "It stimulates the nervous system," McLagan says. "So you're prepared to, like, deal with the bitterness for the benefits."
Loosely defined, and generally unregulated category of liqueurs. All have one thing in common: a bittering agent.
Amaro/Amari: Amaro, Amer and Amargo are respectively the Italian, French and Spanish words for “bitter.” is traditional category reaches back to the beginnings of distillation and therefore to the creation of healthful, even magical medicines through alcohol’s ability to extract and preserve the vital essences of plants. Most of these bitters still boast of their histories as folk medicines.
In general, bitter liquers come in two kinds:
“Aperitif” or Aperitivo” is derived from the Latin word “aperire” meaning to open. They are lower-proof and meant to be taken before a meal to stimulate the gastric juices
digestifs, or “digestives” are higher in proof and follow a meal to help with digestion. Typically, they are produced by macerating herbs, roots, flowers, bark, and/or citrus peels directly in the alcohol. The mixture is then allowed to age in casks or bottles. Many amari acquire their bitterness from the use of quinine, which gives them an additional anti-malarial function.
According to legend were once believed to stimulate the appetite. They were popular in Italy in the mid-19th century – enjoyed throughout Europe by the late 19th century. Many originated as herbal tonics, historically believed to have medicinal properties.
OVERVIEW
Flavors are extracted from botanicals into a solvent using a variety of methods. The resulting infusion is matured before being balanced with the addition of sugar, water, and often, caramel.
SOLVENTS
Pure Alcohol (96% +), Pure Water, Hydro-Alcoholic Solution, Wine
BOTANICAL PREPARATION
Botanicals are dehydrated and processed in different ways to maximize flavor extraction.
Herbs & Flowers – Rough shred
Fruit & Peels – Chopped Into Pieces
Roots, Barks, Nuts – Crushed or Powdered
Seeds - Pressed
STYLISTIC DIFFERENCES
Producers that want to extract more bitterness will infuse into a hydro-alcoholic solution at a lower ABV (i.e. Braulio @ 40% ABV), thus solubilizing more of the bitter compounds and requiring less dilution from water and NGS.
Producers of milder, more citrus-forward amari will infuse at a higher ABV (i.e. Averna @ 96+% ABV), thus extracting more essential oils and requiring more diltion from water and NGS.