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The Thirties and wwii
  Fashion from the Stock Market Crash to World War II
Market
    Crash
    Stock
    Market
    Crash
   20s: Era of Prosperity
1929: The Great Depression
Early 30s


Longer skirts

Defined, natural waist

Obvious curves
Early 30s



Undergarments

Defined curves
Madeleine Vionnet



Female Clothing
Designer
Madeleine vionnet
     The Bias Cut Dress
madeleine vionnet
     The Bias Cut Dress
elsa schiaparelli
     Surrealist Motifs
elsa schiaparelli
     Surrealist Motifs
Sportswear
   For Women
Hats and Hairstyles
     Varied throughout the decade
Styles of Footwear
Typical accessories



Sunglasses




                                  Scarves




             Jewelry
                       Handbags
Movie Stars
Become an Influence in Fashion
Later 1930s
From Longer, Bias Cut to Shorter, Fuller Skirt and Square
                       Shoulders
English Drape Suit
       Late 1930s
The Zoot Suit
Adopted By Lower Income and Ethnic Groups
New: Jockey shorts
       Mens’ Undies
Prince of Wales
  Heavy Influence on Mens’ Fashion
From casual to formal
sportswear
   For Men
coats
Polo Coats and Trench Coats
Hats and hair
typical footwear
     For the Boys!
accessories




 Bow Ties        Neck Ties      Handkerchiefs




Cuff Links                        Tie Clips
                Wrist Watches
Children
Usually dressed like little adults
Boys and Young Men
   Boys: Knickers Young Men: Full Pants
World War II
 Has a Significant Impact on Fashion
Fabric is rationed
Style
And The Rise of The American Designer
For Further Study

  Museum And Collection Web Sites With Photographs Of Period Clothing

  Texas Fashion Collection http://web2.unt.edu/tfc_test/main/Index.htm
  Bata Shoe Museum http://www.batashoemuseum.ca/collectindex.html
  Bath Museum. Interesting feature of “the dress of the year.” http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk
  http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/3timesearch/tstwentieth/20.html
  Pictures from Beverly Berks Couture Collection which has extensive collection of images of garments and accessories. ht
       tp://www.camrax.com
  Philadelphia Museum www.philamuseum.org
  Metropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute found at www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection.asp
  Cornell University Costume Collection http://char.txa.cornell.edu/treasures/index.html
  http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/3timesearch/tstwentieth/1930-1946/1930-1946.html
  Drexel University Costume Gallery http://digimuse.cis.drexel.edu/home.html

  Fashion Designers
  http://womenshistory.about.com/library/bio/blbio_chanel_coco.htm
  http://www.coololdstuff.com/coco.html
  http://www.exclusive-life.de/eng/Articles/Craft/fabrics_leather/Madeleine-Vionnet/Vionnet_eng.htm
  http://www.schiaparelli.com/
  http://www.dilpreetbawa.com/historyofashion/schiaparelli.html
  http://www.dilpreetbawa.com/historyofashion/fashionframe.html (Look up designers such as Adrian, Chanel,
       Vionnet, Schiaparelli.)




CHAPTER SIX TEEN
THE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,                                                                                              31
AND WORLD WAR II
1920 - 1947                                    © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
For Further Study

  Wartime Restrictions
  http://home.cfl.rr.com/featherweight/board.htm
  http://www.fabrics.net/joan702.asp
  http://www.livinghistoryfarm.org/farminginthe40s/life_08.html

  Zoot Suits
  http://invention.smithsonian.org/centerpieces/whole_cloth/u7sf/u7materials/cosgrove.html

  Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic Clothing
  Arnold, J. 1977. Patterns of Fashion. Vol. 2: 1860-1940. New York: Drama Book Specialists.
  Bradfield, N. 1997. Costume in Detail. New York: Costume and Fashion Press.




CHAPTER SIX TEEN
THE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,                                                                        32
AND WORLD WAR II
1920 - 1947                                     © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Image Credits
   Photo of the Chrysler Building, Courtesy www.rumbugger.co.uk
   Photo of Flapper, http://classes.berklee.edu/llanday/fall01/jazzage/crowdweb/pages/flapper.htm
   Joan Crawford in Our Dancing Daughters 1928, http://classes.berklee.edu/llanday/fall01/jazzage/film/index.html
   Man seated at piano, surrounded by group of glamorous girls, Washington, D.C., October 1923, Library of Congress, LC-USZ62-42063
   Fashion Plate from Très Parisien, Volume 3, 1915, plate 16
   Woman in undergarments, ca. 1921, New York Public Library Digital Image Collection
   Photo of c. Winter 1926/27 Numbered Jeanne Lanvin, Paris, Courtesy www.antiquedress.com
   Photo of Gabrielle Chanel, Courtesy www.museudelperfum.com
   L'Art da la Mode, 1927
   Fashion Plate from Très Parisien, Volume 3, 1915, Plate 7
   Fashion Plate from Très Parisien, Volume 3, 1915, Plate 11
   Advertisements for Rayon Stockings, Everyday Fashions of the Twenties As Pictured in Sears and Other Catalogs, Dover, 1981
   Colorful lounging pajamas c. 1929, Courtesy, Blending Hemingway Company
   Woman in Cloche Hat, Courtesy www.southernprints.co.uk
   Beige Leather Pumps, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com
   Aqua Marbled Evening Sandals, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com
   Vintage Patterned Stockings Item# FD-2319, Courtesy www.fashiondig.com
   Flapper Stockings Item# FD-4401, Courtesy www.fashiondig.com
   c. 1920 Stockings Item# FD-3540, Courtesy www.fashiondig.com
   Deco Diamond Platinum Watch Item# FD-940, Courtesy www.fashiondig.com
   Art Deco Necklace, From the inventory of Isadora's Antique Clothing and Estate Jewelry, Seattle, WA, www.isadoras.com
   Antique 1920's Marcasite Earrings, From the inventory of Isadora's Antique Clothing and Estate Jewelry, Seattle, WA, www.isadoras.com


CHAPTER SIX TEEN
THE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,                                                                                                                    33
AND WORLD WAR II
1920 - 1947                                                    © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Image Credits
  Velvet and Steel Beaded Handbag, circa 1920, Courtesy www.ewolfs.com
  Art Deco Steel Beaded Handbag, France, 1920, Courtesy www.ewolfs.com
  Wall Street 1929, Courtesy, Bilan du Siècle - C'est arrivé en ce jour
  High necks before and after dinner, Vogue, October 1, 1933, pg 51
  The triumph of the eggshell in winter woolens, Vogue, August 1, 1931
  Merry Widow Revival, Vogue, June 1, 1937
  Illustrations of Sportswear, Vogue, November 15, 1937 pg 37
  Doris Blumenfeld, c. early 1930s, Courtesy demode.tweedlebop.com
  1940's Hairstyle, Courtesy www.hairrific.com
  1930's Movie Star Dark Navy Felt Hat, Courtesy www.antiquedress.com
  c. 1930's New York Creation Black Felt Cutwork Hat , Courtesy www.antiquedress.com
  c. late 1930's/early 1940's Gray Felt Doll Top Hat , Courtesy www.antiquedress.com
  c. 1930's Peck & Peck Wool Checked Hat, Courtesy www.antiquedress.com
  Brown Satin Evening Sandals, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com
  Brown Suede And Leather Oxfords, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com
  Brown Alligator Platforms, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com
  Schiaparelli Festoon Necklace and Pendant Earrings, Courtesy, www.doylenewyork.com
  1930's blue w/silver glitter plastic, Courtesy, www.klasik.org
  1930's translucent amber/tort plastic frame, Courtesy, www.klasik.org
  1940'S Brown Alligator Purse, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com
  Silk Scarf w/ Art Deco/Geometric Pattern, Courtesy, www.easystreetantiques.com
  Betty Davis Film Poster, The Girl From 10th Avenue (1935), Courtesy, www.reelclassics.com


CHAPTER SIX TEEN
THE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,                                                                             34
AND WORLD WAR II
1920 - 1947                                                   © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Image Credits
  The Basics of Dark Dress, Vogue, May 1, 1939 pg 103
  Man in Grey Suit, Chicago Woolen Mills Catalog 1937
  MAN IN ZOOT-SUIT a. 1943, Courtesy, www.museum.state.il.us
  Vee Line Shirts and Shorts Advertisement 1938, Everyday Fashions of the Thirties, As Pictured in Sears Catalogs, pg 111, Dover 1986
  Edward, Prince of Wales, standing with a man wearing a uniform, Library of Congress,       http://memory.loc.gov/
  ndlpcoop/ichicdn/n0784/n078441.jpg
  The Prince of Wales visits TR's grave / [International Film Service Co.], Library of Congress Motion Picture, Broadcasting and Recording   Sound Division,
  at Library of Congress Motion Pictures
  Sportcoat Advertisement 1931, Everyday Fashions of the Thirties as Pictured in Sears Catalogs, pg 35, Dover 1986
  Man in Tuxedo, Chicago Woolen Mills Catalog 1937
  Man in Polo Overcoats, Chicago Woolen Mills Catalog 1937
  Man in Trench coat, "Chicago Woolen Mills Catalog 1937
  Vintage Ties, Courtesy www.ballyhoovintage.com
  Adjustable Rust & Tan Bow Tie, Courtesy, www.vintagevoola.com
  1930's Period Wristwatch, Used by permission through , www.boomertime.com
  1930's Vintage Cufflinks, Courtesy, www.isadoras.com
  Men's Monogrammed Cotton Handkerchiefs, Courtesy, www.jr-designs.com
  1930's Sedan Tie Clip, Courtesy, www.arteauto.com
  Children attend Houdini expose of fraudulent mediums, 1925, Library of Congress, LC-USZ62-112425 DLC
  Photo of Young Men, from the Authors collection.
  "Chippers." Women war workers of Marinship Corp., 1942. 86-WWT-85-16, National Archives and Records Administration
  Diagram of New L-85 Order Clarifies the Fundamental Changes, Women's Wear Daily, Monday, June 7, 1942
  c. 1940's ADRIAN Perfect Gray Flannel Suit, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com
  New Tweeds, Vogue, December 1942, page 66.
CHAPTER SIX TEEN
THE TWENTIES, THIRTIES,                                                                                                                              35
AND WORLD WAR II
1920 - 1947                                                © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

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30s-40s Fashion

  • 1. The Thirties and wwii Fashion from the Stock Market Crash to World War II
  • 2. Market Crash Stock Market Crash 20s: Era of Prosperity 1929: The Great Depression
  • 3. Early 30s Longer skirts Defined, natural waist Obvious curves
  • 6. Madeleine vionnet The Bias Cut Dress
  • 7. madeleine vionnet The Bias Cut Dress
  • 8. elsa schiaparelli Surrealist Motifs
  • 9. elsa schiaparelli Surrealist Motifs
  • 10. Sportswear For Women
  • 11. Hats and Hairstyles Varied throughout the decade
  • 13. Typical accessories Sunglasses Scarves Jewelry Handbags
  • 14. Movie Stars Become an Influence in Fashion
  • 15. Later 1930s From Longer, Bias Cut to Shorter, Fuller Skirt and Square Shoulders
  • 16. English Drape Suit Late 1930s
  • 17. The Zoot Suit Adopted By Lower Income and Ethnic Groups
  • 18. New: Jockey shorts Mens’ Undies
  • 19. Prince of Wales Heavy Influence on Mens’ Fashion
  • 20. From casual to formal
  • 21. sportswear For Men
  • 22. coats Polo Coats and Trench Coats
  • 24. typical footwear For the Boys!
  • 25. accessories Bow Ties Neck Ties Handkerchiefs Cuff Links Tie Clips Wrist Watches
  • 27. Boys and Young Men Boys: Knickers Young Men: Full Pants
  • 28. World War II Has a Significant Impact on Fashion
  • 30. Style And The Rise of The American Designer
  • 31. For Further Study Museum And Collection Web Sites With Photographs Of Period Clothing Texas Fashion Collection http://web2.unt.edu/tfc_test/main/Index.htm Bata Shoe Museum http://www.batashoemuseum.ca/collectindex.html Bath Museum. Interesting feature of “the dress of the year.” http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/3timesearch/tstwentieth/20.html Pictures from Beverly Berks Couture Collection which has extensive collection of images of garments and accessories. ht tp://www.camrax.com Philadelphia Museum www.philamuseum.org Metropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute found at www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection.asp Cornell University Costume Collection http://char.txa.cornell.edu/treasures/index.html http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/3timesearch/tstwentieth/1930-1946/1930-1946.html Drexel University Costume Gallery http://digimuse.cis.drexel.edu/home.html Fashion Designers http://womenshistory.about.com/library/bio/blbio_chanel_coco.htm http://www.coololdstuff.com/coco.html http://www.exclusive-life.de/eng/Articles/Craft/fabrics_leather/Madeleine-Vionnet/Vionnet_eng.htm http://www.schiaparelli.com/ http://www.dilpreetbawa.com/historyofashion/schiaparelli.html http://www.dilpreetbawa.com/historyofashion/fashionframe.html (Look up designers such as Adrian, Chanel, Vionnet, Schiaparelli.) CHAPTER SIX TEEN THE TWENTIES, THIRTIES, 31 AND WORLD WAR II 1920 - 1947 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
  • 32. For Further Study Wartime Restrictions http://home.cfl.rr.com/featherweight/board.htm http://www.fabrics.net/joan702.asp http://www.livinghistoryfarm.org/farminginthe40s/life_08.html Zoot Suits http://invention.smithsonian.org/centerpieces/whole_cloth/u7sf/u7materials/cosgrove.html Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic Clothing Arnold, J. 1977. Patterns of Fashion. Vol. 2: 1860-1940. New York: Drama Book Specialists. Bradfield, N. 1997. Costume in Detail. New York: Costume and Fashion Press. CHAPTER SIX TEEN THE TWENTIES, THIRTIES, 32 AND WORLD WAR II 1920 - 1947 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
  • 33. Image Credits Photo of the Chrysler Building, Courtesy www.rumbugger.co.uk Photo of Flapper, http://classes.berklee.edu/llanday/fall01/jazzage/crowdweb/pages/flapper.htm Joan Crawford in Our Dancing Daughters 1928, http://classes.berklee.edu/llanday/fall01/jazzage/film/index.html Man seated at piano, surrounded by group of glamorous girls, Washington, D.C., October 1923, Library of Congress, LC-USZ62-42063 Fashion Plate from Très Parisien, Volume 3, 1915, plate 16 Woman in undergarments, ca. 1921, New York Public Library Digital Image Collection Photo of c. Winter 1926/27 Numbered Jeanne Lanvin, Paris, Courtesy www.antiquedress.com Photo of Gabrielle Chanel, Courtesy www.museudelperfum.com L'Art da la Mode, 1927 Fashion Plate from Très Parisien, Volume 3, 1915, Plate 7 Fashion Plate from Très Parisien, Volume 3, 1915, Plate 11 Advertisements for Rayon Stockings, Everyday Fashions of the Twenties As Pictured in Sears and Other Catalogs, Dover, 1981 Colorful lounging pajamas c. 1929, Courtesy, Blending Hemingway Company Woman in Cloche Hat, Courtesy www.southernprints.co.uk Beige Leather Pumps, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com Aqua Marbled Evening Sandals, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com Vintage Patterned Stockings Item# FD-2319, Courtesy www.fashiondig.com Flapper Stockings Item# FD-4401, Courtesy www.fashiondig.com c. 1920 Stockings Item# FD-3540, Courtesy www.fashiondig.com Deco Diamond Platinum Watch Item# FD-940, Courtesy www.fashiondig.com Art Deco Necklace, From the inventory of Isadora's Antique Clothing and Estate Jewelry, Seattle, WA, www.isadoras.com Antique 1920's Marcasite Earrings, From the inventory of Isadora's Antique Clothing and Estate Jewelry, Seattle, WA, www.isadoras.com CHAPTER SIX TEEN THE TWENTIES, THIRTIES, 33 AND WORLD WAR II 1920 - 1947 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
  • 34. Image Credits Velvet and Steel Beaded Handbag, circa 1920, Courtesy www.ewolfs.com Art Deco Steel Beaded Handbag, France, 1920, Courtesy www.ewolfs.com Wall Street 1929, Courtesy, Bilan du Siècle - C'est arrivé en ce jour High necks before and after dinner, Vogue, October 1, 1933, pg 51 The triumph of the eggshell in winter woolens, Vogue, August 1, 1931 Merry Widow Revival, Vogue, June 1, 1937 Illustrations of Sportswear, Vogue, November 15, 1937 pg 37 Doris Blumenfeld, c. early 1930s, Courtesy demode.tweedlebop.com 1940's Hairstyle, Courtesy www.hairrific.com 1930's Movie Star Dark Navy Felt Hat, Courtesy www.antiquedress.com c. 1930's New York Creation Black Felt Cutwork Hat , Courtesy www.antiquedress.com c. late 1930's/early 1940's Gray Felt Doll Top Hat , Courtesy www.antiquedress.com c. 1930's Peck & Peck Wool Checked Hat, Courtesy www.antiquedress.com Brown Satin Evening Sandals, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com Brown Suede And Leather Oxfords, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com Brown Alligator Platforms, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com Schiaparelli Festoon Necklace and Pendant Earrings, Courtesy, www.doylenewyork.com 1930's blue w/silver glitter plastic, Courtesy, www.klasik.org 1930's translucent amber/tort plastic frame, Courtesy, www.klasik.org 1940'S Brown Alligator Purse, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com Silk Scarf w/ Art Deco/Geometric Pattern, Courtesy, www.easystreetantiques.com Betty Davis Film Poster, The Girl From 10th Avenue (1935), Courtesy, www.reelclassics.com CHAPTER SIX TEEN THE TWENTIES, THIRTIES, 34 AND WORLD WAR II 1920 - 1947 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
  • 35. Image Credits The Basics of Dark Dress, Vogue, May 1, 1939 pg 103 Man in Grey Suit, Chicago Woolen Mills Catalog 1937 MAN IN ZOOT-SUIT a. 1943, Courtesy, www.museum.state.il.us Vee Line Shirts and Shorts Advertisement 1938, Everyday Fashions of the Thirties, As Pictured in Sears Catalogs, pg 111, Dover 1986 Edward, Prince of Wales, standing with a man wearing a uniform, Library of Congress, http://memory.loc.gov/ ndlpcoop/ichicdn/n0784/n078441.jpg The Prince of Wales visits TR's grave / [International Film Service Co.], Library of Congress Motion Picture, Broadcasting and Recording Sound Division, at Library of Congress Motion Pictures Sportcoat Advertisement 1931, Everyday Fashions of the Thirties as Pictured in Sears Catalogs, pg 35, Dover 1986 Man in Tuxedo, Chicago Woolen Mills Catalog 1937 Man in Polo Overcoats, Chicago Woolen Mills Catalog 1937 Man in Trench coat, "Chicago Woolen Mills Catalog 1937 Vintage Ties, Courtesy www.ballyhoovintage.com Adjustable Rust & Tan Bow Tie, Courtesy, www.vintagevoola.com 1930's Period Wristwatch, Used by permission through , www.boomertime.com 1930's Vintage Cufflinks, Courtesy, www.isadoras.com Men's Monogrammed Cotton Handkerchiefs, Courtesy, www.jr-designs.com 1930's Sedan Tie Clip, Courtesy, www.arteauto.com Children attend Houdini expose of fraudulent mediums, 1925, Library of Congress, LC-USZ62-112425 DLC Photo of Young Men, from the Authors collection. "Chippers." Women war workers of Marinship Corp., 1942. 86-WWT-85-16, National Archives and Records Administration Diagram of New L-85 Order Clarifies the Fundamental Changes, Women's Wear Daily, Monday, June 7, 1942 c. 1940's ADRIAN Perfect Gray Flannel Suit, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com New Tweeds, Vogue, December 1942, page 66. CHAPTER SIX TEEN THE TWENTIES, THIRTIES, 35 AND WORLD WAR II 1920 - 1947 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.