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© Project SOUND
California Colors:
Experiences with Native
Plant Dyeing
Barbara Sattler and Connie Vadheim
South Coast Chapter – CNPS
October 6, 2014
California natives: so much to attract us
© Project SOUND
Hopi dyes: cotton &
basketry fibers
© Project SOUND
http://www.adobegallery.com/art/hopi-third-mesa-wicker-groom-s-plaque
Navajo dyes: wool
© Project SOUND
http://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/14211892_navajo-traditional-natural-dye-rug
http://www.navajoministries.org/news/NavajoDyeChart.htm
http://navajorug.com/blasts-from-my-past/
California Natural Dyes – the ‘lost’ traditions
are being ‘rediscovered’
 Historical documents (a few)
 Some traditions handed down –
now being shared
 Looking to other groups –
California & Baja CA
 Trying to duplicate artifacts
 Creating sources of dye stuffs
© Project SOUND
http://deborahsmall.wordpress.com/2009/11/22/gat
hering-deergrass/
http://blog.sfgate.com/inmarin/2009/10/01/last-opportunity-to-take-native-
american-skills-class/
Another source of inspiration….
© Project SOUND
© Project SOUND
How do you get those colors?
The dyeing process: 4 main steps
1. Prepare the material to be
colored
2. Prepare the dye-bath
3. Dye the material
4. Complete the after-dye
processing
© Project SOUND
Preparing the fiber/yarn: steps that help
the fiber take up the dye
 Cleaning/ removing substances that
prevent dyeing (grease; waxes; etc.)
 Washing
 Stripping : heat, specific
chemicals/substances, light exposure,
other
 Other physical preparations
 Making the material more receptive to
the dye, if needed
 Wetting the material just prior to
dyeing
© Project SOUND
http://joyofhandspinning.com/how-to-
prepare-fiber-with-a-drum-carder/
http://stoneflake.net/explore/primitive-living/how-to/preparing-
yucca-fiber-from-dried-leaves/
What are mordants?  Substances that improve uptake
and/or retention of dye particles
 From the French mordre, ‘to
bite’. In the past, it was thought
that a mordant helped the dye
bite onto the fiber so that it
would hold fast during washing.
 Been used thousands of years
 Two types:
 Chemical mordants; metallic salts
[alum; tin; iron, copper;
chromium]
 Plant mordants [tannins]
 Not all dye/fiber combinations
require a mordant
© Project SOUND
http://www.chemical-engineering.co/2012/03/22/mordant/
Lemonadeberry leaves
Preparing the dye bath  Collect the dye stuff
 Correct plant part
 Time of year – often
important
 Prepare the dye stuff
 Chopping
 Drying
 Treating
 Extract the dye
© Project SOUND
http://sewserena.wordpress.com/2012/09/17/dyeing-yarn-and-fabric-with-rabbit-brush/
Let’s look at some of my favorite dye sources
© Project SOUND
Rabbitbush – Ericameria nauseosa
Rabbitbush: a natural dyer’s delight
© Project SOUND
 Abundant
 Easy to collect, use; can be stored
 Good, durable dye
 Lovely carotinoid pigment colors
(yellows/gold/greens)
 Nicely scented; non-toxic
Yellow-flowered Asteraceae: good starting dyes
 Common in gardens
 Need annual pruning
 Can use both flowers, foliage
 Easy to collect, use; can be stored
 Good, durable dye
 Lovely carotinoid pigment colors
(yellows/gold/greens)
 Nicely scented ; non-toxic
© Project SOUND
California goldenrod
the Goldenbushes
Ericameria species
Parts of plants used for dyes
 Flowers/flower buds
 Seedpods
 Seeds
 Leaves
 Stems
 Roots
 Bark
 Root bark
© Project SOUND
Leaves can produce extraordinary colors
Island ironwood - Lyonothamnus
floribundus
 bark a traditional source of black dye
 ?? Can a dye be obtained from the
fallen leaves
 Challenge: leaves are tough & leathery
© Project SOUND
Why must dyes be ‘extracted’?
 Location in plants
 Roots
 Bark
 Wood
 Other interior tissues
 Location in the cells
 Vacuole – water-soluble
pigments
 Chromoplasts
 Cell wall
 Other
 Have to do something to
destroy well walls to
release the pigment
© Project SOUND
Ways to create bright dyes (wool yarn)
1. Use a 10:1 ratio of dyestuff to
wool (by weight)
2. Crush/cut dry thick, leathery
leaves
3. Begin extraction with heat
(20-30 minutes)
4. Let dye bath rest at least 2-3
days
5. Use multiple extractions to
get multiple pigments
6. To dye, use 20-30 min heat +
2-4 days soak (or solar dyeing
for longer)
© Project SOUND
Lyonothamnus leaves produce lovely
rusts and oranges
© Project SOUND
Taking advantage:
trimmings, etc.
© Project SOUND
Ponderosa pine (Pinus ponderosa)
 Colorful inner bark
 1-2” branches have thin outer bark
 Needs time (year?) to separate bark
easily
Stem and root bark pigments
Complex mix of ‘protective’ pigments:
 Flavonoids – yellows
 Anthocyanins – red/red-brown
 Tannin – tan/brown (natural
mordant)
 Others
© Project SOUND
 Pines
 Junipers
 Willows/Poplars (Salix/Populus)
 Cherries (Prunus)
 Apples & pears
Releasing pigments from tough sources
 Dry the bark
 Cut, pound or pulverize it
 Let it soak in water for a few
days to several weeks
 Boil it for several hours
 Let the dye bath sit for days
to weeks – stirred or not
 Strain out the plant material
and use
 Apply heat
 Hot/boiling water
 Steam
 Microwave
 Apply force
 Pound/grind
 Let microorganisms do the
work – fermentation
 Or a combination of the
above
© Project SOUND
Tradition recipe for preparing
dye from a tree bark
Dye extraction requires patience
© Project SOUND
Extra time = better, more even color
© Project SOUND
Time to wash, rinse
& dry
© Project SOUND
“I don’t knit; what can I do with dyed yarn?”
© Project SOUND
To learn more, come to our artist’s receptions
© Project SOUND
Don’t you wish you had more/brighter
colors?
© Project SOUND
The natural dye colors are truly ‘California
Colors’
© Project SOUND
Why tradition/natural dye traditions are
important
 They provide sources of eco-friendly
dyes for:
 Fabrics, leather, wood, etc.
 Foods
 Medicines and cosmetics
 They provide important models for
medicine & engineering
 They help us understand plants
better; focus our attention on both
botany and uses of plants
 They are part of our human
heritage
 They inspire modern artists &
craftspeople
© Project SOUND
http://www.sbnature.org/research/anthro/chumash/daily.htm#Baskets
Chumash baskets
http://www.navajoministries.org/news/NavajoDyeChart.htm

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California colors natural dyes - 2014

  • 1. © Project SOUND California Colors: Experiences with Native Plant Dyeing Barbara Sattler and Connie Vadheim South Coast Chapter – CNPS October 6, 2014
  • 2. California natives: so much to attract us © Project SOUND
  • 3. Hopi dyes: cotton & basketry fibers © Project SOUND http://www.adobegallery.com/art/hopi-third-mesa-wicker-groom-s-plaque
  • 4. Navajo dyes: wool © Project SOUND http://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/14211892_navajo-traditional-natural-dye-rug http://www.navajoministries.org/news/NavajoDyeChart.htm http://navajorug.com/blasts-from-my-past/
  • 5. California Natural Dyes – the ‘lost’ traditions are being ‘rediscovered’  Historical documents (a few)  Some traditions handed down – now being shared  Looking to other groups – California & Baja CA  Trying to duplicate artifacts  Creating sources of dye stuffs © Project SOUND http://deborahsmall.wordpress.com/2009/11/22/gat hering-deergrass/ http://blog.sfgate.com/inmarin/2009/10/01/last-opportunity-to-take-native- american-skills-class/
  • 6. Another source of inspiration…. © Project SOUND
  • 7. © Project SOUND How do you get those colors?
  • 8. The dyeing process: 4 main steps 1. Prepare the material to be colored 2. Prepare the dye-bath 3. Dye the material 4. Complete the after-dye processing © Project SOUND
  • 9. Preparing the fiber/yarn: steps that help the fiber take up the dye  Cleaning/ removing substances that prevent dyeing (grease; waxes; etc.)  Washing  Stripping : heat, specific chemicals/substances, light exposure, other  Other physical preparations  Making the material more receptive to the dye, if needed  Wetting the material just prior to dyeing © Project SOUND http://joyofhandspinning.com/how-to- prepare-fiber-with-a-drum-carder/ http://stoneflake.net/explore/primitive-living/how-to/preparing- yucca-fiber-from-dried-leaves/
  • 10. What are mordants?  Substances that improve uptake and/or retention of dye particles  From the French mordre, ‘to bite’. In the past, it was thought that a mordant helped the dye bite onto the fiber so that it would hold fast during washing.  Been used thousands of years  Two types:  Chemical mordants; metallic salts [alum; tin; iron, copper; chromium]  Plant mordants [tannins]  Not all dye/fiber combinations require a mordant © Project SOUND http://www.chemical-engineering.co/2012/03/22/mordant/ Lemonadeberry leaves
  • 11. Preparing the dye bath  Collect the dye stuff  Correct plant part  Time of year – often important  Prepare the dye stuff  Chopping  Drying  Treating  Extract the dye © Project SOUND http://sewserena.wordpress.com/2012/09/17/dyeing-yarn-and-fabric-with-rabbit-brush/
  • 12. Let’s look at some of my favorite dye sources © Project SOUND Rabbitbush – Ericameria nauseosa
  • 13. Rabbitbush: a natural dyer’s delight © Project SOUND  Abundant  Easy to collect, use; can be stored  Good, durable dye  Lovely carotinoid pigment colors (yellows/gold/greens)  Nicely scented; non-toxic
  • 14. Yellow-flowered Asteraceae: good starting dyes  Common in gardens  Need annual pruning  Can use both flowers, foliage  Easy to collect, use; can be stored  Good, durable dye  Lovely carotinoid pigment colors (yellows/gold/greens)  Nicely scented ; non-toxic © Project SOUND California goldenrod the Goldenbushes Ericameria species
  • 15. Parts of plants used for dyes  Flowers/flower buds  Seedpods  Seeds  Leaves  Stems  Roots  Bark  Root bark © Project SOUND
  • 16. Leaves can produce extraordinary colors Island ironwood - Lyonothamnus floribundus  bark a traditional source of black dye  ?? Can a dye be obtained from the fallen leaves  Challenge: leaves are tough & leathery © Project SOUND
  • 17. Why must dyes be ‘extracted’?  Location in plants  Roots  Bark  Wood  Other interior tissues  Location in the cells  Vacuole – water-soluble pigments  Chromoplasts  Cell wall  Other  Have to do something to destroy well walls to release the pigment © Project SOUND
  • 18. Ways to create bright dyes (wool yarn) 1. Use a 10:1 ratio of dyestuff to wool (by weight) 2. Crush/cut dry thick, leathery leaves 3. Begin extraction with heat (20-30 minutes) 4. Let dye bath rest at least 2-3 days 5. Use multiple extractions to get multiple pigments 6. To dye, use 20-30 min heat + 2-4 days soak (or solar dyeing for longer) © Project SOUND
  • 19. Lyonothamnus leaves produce lovely rusts and oranges © Project SOUND
  • 20. Taking advantage: trimmings, etc. © Project SOUND Ponderosa pine (Pinus ponderosa)  Colorful inner bark  1-2” branches have thin outer bark  Needs time (year?) to separate bark easily
  • 21. Stem and root bark pigments Complex mix of ‘protective’ pigments:  Flavonoids – yellows  Anthocyanins – red/red-brown  Tannin – tan/brown (natural mordant)  Others © Project SOUND  Pines  Junipers  Willows/Poplars (Salix/Populus)  Cherries (Prunus)  Apples & pears
  • 22. Releasing pigments from tough sources  Dry the bark  Cut, pound or pulverize it  Let it soak in water for a few days to several weeks  Boil it for several hours  Let the dye bath sit for days to weeks – stirred or not  Strain out the plant material and use  Apply heat  Hot/boiling water  Steam  Microwave  Apply force  Pound/grind  Let microorganisms do the work – fermentation  Or a combination of the above © Project SOUND Tradition recipe for preparing dye from a tree bark
  • 23. Dye extraction requires patience © Project SOUND
  • 24. Extra time = better, more even color © Project SOUND
  • 25. Time to wash, rinse & dry © Project SOUND
  • 26. “I don’t knit; what can I do with dyed yarn?” © Project SOUND
  • 27. To learn more, come to our artist’s receptions © Project SOUND
  • 28. Don’t you wish you had more/brighter colors? © Project SOUND
  • 29. The natural dye colors are truly ‘California Colors’ © Project SOUND
  • 30. Why tradition/natural dye traditions are important  They provide sources of eco-friendly dyes for:  Fabrics, leather, wood, etc.  Foods  Medicines and cosmetics  They provide important models for medicine & engineering  They help us understand plants better; focus our attention on both botany and uses of plants  They are part of our human heritage  They inspire modern artists & craftspeople © Project SOUND http://www.sbnature.org/research/anthro/chumash/daily.htm#Baskets Chumash baskets http://www.navajoministries.org/news/NavajoDyeChart.htm