Irrigation methods for southern california gardens
1. Commonly Used Irrigation Methods with CA Native Plants
Method
Hand watering
with hose
Description
Area is watered by
letting a hose run at
a low rate for a
period of time
Hand watering
with hose &
sprinkler
Area overhead
watered with a
sprinkler attached
to a hose
Overhead
watering with
‘rainbird’ type
sprinkler
Area overhead
watered with fixed
rainbird sprinkler
(or one attached to
hose or quickcoupler)
Advantages
Cheap
Simple; no moving parts
Flexible; use/move as needed
Leaves kept dry
Low water pressure not a
problem
Disadvantages
Requires convenient spigots*
Takes time
Best Used for
Zone 2** with welldrained soils (not sand)
Zone 3 (around a pond)
Pots or planters with
raised edges to allow
flooding
Rain gardens/swales
Established trees
Cheap
Simple; few moving parts
Flexible; use/move as needed
Can water a fairly large area
depending on sprinkler
Good for delicate plants,
seedlings
Low water pressure not a
problem
Requires convenient spigots*
Takes time; but could attach a
simple timer
Wets foliage – need to water
in early a.m.
Have to replace sprinklers
periodically
Zone 2 or 3
Just about any soil
Native prairies/lawns
(establishment)
Annual wildflower
meadows
Mixed beds (grasses,
annuals, perennials)
Moderately inexpensive
Moderately simple; durable
Can water a large area,
including on hillsides
Can be flexible (if attached to
hose)
Requires good water pressure
May not get even coverage
May damage delicate plants
Zone 2 or 3
Large areas (meadows;
prairies)
Hillsides/slopes
2. Method
Overhead
watering with
conventional
fixed
sprinklers
Drip irrigation:
conventional
emitters
Description
Area overhead
watered by a
conventional
sprinkler system;
may be fitted with
low flow (water
saving) heads
Advantages
Disadvantages
Best Used for
Relatively permanent
Easy to connect to timers;
don’t need to be there to
water
May already be in place
May get good coverage
Expensive
Requires installation
Costs & time to maintain (e.g.,
broken pipes, etc)
Not as flexible as hand
watering
Requires sufficient water
pressure
Heads/risers can be trip
hazard
Zone 3
Mowed lawns
Tropical plants
Water efficient – water only
Emitters emit a
applied where it’s needed
trickle of water.
Water applied at slow
They come in
enough rate to soak in
different sizes;
System can be covered with
larger sizes allow a
mulch
higher flow of
Relatively easy to install
water. Emitters are Foliage is kept dry
placed at the root
Low water pressure is fine
zone of individual
Fewer weeds – less area
plants or in pots.
watered
System has limited lifespan
Moderately expensive
(depending on size of system)
Regular maintenance;
emitters get plugged
If mulch-covered can’t see
whether working properly
Soil can become over-watered
leading to disease
Tubes have to be staked down
or they move
Tubes can be a trip hazard
If too few emitters root
growth may be inhibited
Zone 1 & 2
Establishment of shrubs
(CSS & chaparral
particularly)
Larger vegetables
(tomatoes; melons)
Pots
Berms
Odd-shaped & narrow
areas
Areas that cannot be
conventionally piped
3. Method
Drip irrigation
fitted with
bubblers or
pop-up microsprayers
Soaker hose
Description
Bubblers emit
higher flows in a
circular pattern
(useful for irrigating
shrubs and for filling
basins around
newly planted
trees/shrubs
Microsprays emit
large droplets or
fine streams of
water just above
the ground. They
have higher flow
rates than
conventional
emitters
Area is watered by
porous hoses that
emit water at a
moderate rate. Hose
may be covered with
mulch
Advantages
Water efficient – water only
applied where it’s needed
Water applied at slow
enough rate to soak in
System can be covered with
mulch
Relatively easy to install
Foliage is kept dry (larger
plants)
Can see the emitters, so can
monitor their function better
than with conventional
emitters
Foliage can be washed (some
native like occasional summer
spray)
Low water pressure is fine
Low cost
Easy to install
Flexible; can install when &
where needed
Moderate lifespan (3-5 years)
More water-wise than spray
systems
Disadvantages
Many of same disadvantages
as conventional drip
Less water efficient than
conventional drip
Maintenance; can overpressure the system
Can’t put as many emitters on
a line compared to
conventional emitters
Less water efficient than drip
If mulch-covered can’t see
whether working properly
Soil can become over-watered
leading to disease
Hoses have to be staked down or
they move
Best Used for
Zone 1 & 2
Establishment of shrubs
(coastal, CSS, chaparral
& woodland)
Berms
Odd-shaped & narrow
areas
Areas that cannot be
conventionally piped
Zones 1-3 (best 2 & 3)
Vegetable gardens
New shrubs/perennials
Established trees & shrubs
Tropical plants
Wetland plants
* spigot or quick-coupler connect
** Water Zone 1 = no/very occasional irrigation / Water Zone 2 = occasional water (once every 3-4 weeks in summer) / Water Zone 3 = regular