Weave is the method or process of interlacing two yarn or similar material so that they cross each other at right angle to produce woven fabric . Traditionally, denim fabric are 3/1 warp-faced twill fabric made from a yarn dyed warp and an undyed weft yarn and the warp yarn is indigo dyed ,however this twill weave fabric is also available in textures, such as cross hatch and jacquard etc. The textures selected during the design development process for upcoming seasons are chosen with the wash treatment in mind, such as enzyme, acid etc and look & performance requirement of finish product.

1. “ Not just fabric- it is an attitude, culture and lifestyle”
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2. Denim by weave
Weave is the method or
process of interlacing two
yarn or similar material so
that they cross each other at
right angle to produce woven
fabric .
In subsequent slides we
present various types of
weaves used in denim fabric.

3. Traditional Denim
weave
Traditionally, denim fabric is
3/1 warp-faced twill fabric
made from a yarn-dyed warp
and an undyed weft yarn and
the warp yarn is indigo-dyed.
Over the years, many
different denim fabric weaves
have been used, including
Dobby, Jacquard, cross
hatch depending upon the
performance, appearance
and feel requirement of end
product.

4. Three by one weave
 3x1 weave refers to the number of weft threads per
warp thread, in which three threads cross every
one (hence, 3×1 weave).Denims that have heavier
weights (over 10.5 Oz / square yard) are 3×1
weaves, especially compared to denim with a 2×1
weave (under 10.5 Oz /square yard).

5. LHT-Left hand Twill
 Left Hand Twill weave runs diagonally from right
to left, which produces denim that is a bit softer
than RHT. Left hand twill are also more desirable
due to the strength and durability. Right hand
twills have the tendency to stretch out and stay
baggy until washed. However washing in a sense
resets the fabric.
Two types of twill weave in Denim

6. RHT -Right Hand Twill
 RHT refers to the direction in which denim is
woven. The opposite of Left Hand twill, this weave
is much more common, as almost all jeans are
woven with right hand twill. The weft (filler)
threads is visible in upward-right diagonal lines
on right-hand twill jeans. This type of twill weave
runs diagonally from left to right, which produces
flatter and smoother denim.

7. One by one Chambray Denim
 Chambray is a plain (1 x 1 weave) woven denim
fabric often woven in checkered or striped
patterns.

8. Application-
Chambray Denim
It is usually made from blue
and white yarns and used to
make shirts, dresses and
children’s clothing

9. Two by one weave
 2x1 Weave refers to the number of weft threads per
warp thread. Most denims have been traditionally
3x1 weaves, though lighter weight denims
(under10.5 ounces/square yard) often use the 2x1
configuration.

10. Satin Denim
 Satin is a basic weave construction with the
interlacing of the threads so arranged that the
face of the cloth is covered with warp yarn or
filling yarn and no twill line is distinguishable.
The satin weave denim is distinguished by its
lustrous, or 'silky', appearance.

11. Broken Twill Denim weave
 In Broken twill denim Instead of the twill running
left or right, broken twill contains no distinct
direction and instead alternates right and left the
end effect resembles a random zig-zag pattern.

12. Did you know?
Broken twill is bit streaky
and hairy but has a soft hand
feeling & likable structure
and is selected if same is
desired in finish product

13. Chinoo denim
 Chinoo is tightly woven 2 ply right hand 3×1
combed cotton twill fabric. Chinoo is high in
demand and featured in upcoming season by
renowned fashion houses

14. Cross hatch Denim
 Cross hatch is a unique type of denim that shows a
square grid-like pattern in the weave. It is created
by mixing uneven yarns in both the weft and a
warp direction. It is a more rare type of denim and
develops a unique crisscrossed pattern as it fades
and is available in below mentioned combination
of weight, width, colors etc

15. Dobby Denim
 Dobby is a weaving method in which the warp
threads are raised and lowered throughout the
weaving process to form small geometric
figures. Dobby denim fabrics are used mainly
for high fashion garments, top wear and home
décor and are distinguishable by their unique
textures.

16. Did you know?
Dobby denim fabric is also
used many a times for
appliqué work on garment to
enhance fashion appeal of
base garment.

17. Denim Fabric - Herringbone weave
 Herringbone weave, also known as “chevron
weave”, has a distinctive V shaped pattern that
resembles a herring’s skeleton.

18. Herringbone weave
on denim garments
Though generally used in
wool fabrics, especially
tweed, Herringbone denim
is in trend and used for
various apparel and non
apparel application.

19. Jacquard Denim
 With jacquard any combination of weaves and
pattern is possible since each warp is individually
controlled with each pick passage. Due to its
attractive and decorative appeal it is used in high
fashion garments as well as furnishing and
upholstery.

20. Matt weave
The simplest of all patterns is the plain weave. Each
weft yarn goes alternately over and under one warp
yarn. Each warp yarn goes alternately over and
under each weft yarn.
Matt Weave or Basket weave: here, two or more
yarns are used in both the warp and filling
direction. These groups of yarns are woven as one,
producing a basket effect.

21. Matt Weave Denim
While traditionally made of
cotton, today’s oxford cloth is
also frequently made of a
synthetic blend. It is a sturdy,
comfortable fabric and is
relatively inexpensive to
manufacture.

22. Selvedge Denim
Initially known as ‘self-edge’,
the selvedge is the narrow, tightly woven
band on both edges of
the denim fabric. A selvedge end
prevents the edge of the denim from
unraveling and shows a clean, finished
look. Selvedge color varies with the
brand and producer. Selvedge denimare
made out of denim woven on an old-style
shuttle loom with a continuous weft and
a narrow width (usually around thirty
inches).Today, selvage denim is valued
for its irregularities and character, and is
typically more expensive than regular
denim.

23. Application –
Selvedge Denim
Selvedges in jeans usually
denote high quality denim,
albeit there are many factors
to consider with denim
quality.