An overview of skincare

1. BEAUTY SUTRA
THE ASSIMILATED BIBLE FOR
BEAUTY MARKETERS

2. Introduction
A product of a mega workshop combining ‘finger on the pulse’ external
speakers and creative syndicates, uncovering many interesting insights
and 3 key learnings for any multi-brand marketer prospecting the skin
care playing field
SKIN BRANDS NEED TO OPERATE AT THE HEART OF THE BEAUTY
BUSINESS IN INDIA, RATHER THAN BEING PROBLEM-SOLVING
PERSONAL CARE BRANDS
EACH BRAND NEEDS TO EXPRESS A UNIQUE AND RELEVANT THEORY OF
BEAUTY THROUGH ITS ADVERTISING, PRODUCT OFFERINGS AND
PACKAGING
THE EQUITIES OF BRANDS MUST NOT GET BUNCHED TOGETHER, THEY
NEED TO BE SHARPENED AND KEPT APART

3. Facts to consider
• Women want to be financially independent
• Average marriage age of women and men is moving upwards
• Beauty does not end with marriage and children.
• Beauty market is not just products in bottles and jars, it is about salons
and health clubs also
• Beauty in India today is real time - no time lag

4. Learnings from Beauty Sutra
• Distinct shift from looking good for others to enhancing self worth. E.g..
matrimonials
• Shift from beauty based on physical dimensions to beauty defined by
personality. E.g.. Miss World
• Expanding band of beauty icons - E.g. film stars & VJ’s
• Increasing convergence of dermatology and cosmetology.

5. How much of these facts and learnings are
reflected in brand communication?

6. Dissecting offerings
• Attribute - What does the product contain?
• Benefit - What does it do to skin?
• Value - How does it make me feel?

7. Are we in a time warp?
• A bulk of communication with consumers is rooted in the attribute
stage
• Rational Vs Emotional link with consumers
• However, beauty is not a rational measure for most consumers.

8. Fair & Lovely - Core
• 1996 • 2003
problem solving – Transformation
hard working – Confident
value for money – Romantic

9. FAIR & LOVELY
Definition of beauty stimulus

10. Pond’s Core
• 2000 • 2003
– nature + science – Expertise
– femininity – Femininity
– purity – Enhancement
– Pond’s lettering, logo, – Accessible
– graphics (bud) – Joy
– white, pink, blue
– skin maintenance

11. POND’S
Definition of beauty stimulus

12. Vaseline Core
• 2000 • 2003
– removes dryness – Wholesome
– protects skin – Energetic
– softens skin, relief – Vital
– do good values – Pure
– trust, caring,
satisfaction
– natural ingredients

13. VASELINE
Definition of beauty stimulus

14. Pears Core
• 1998 • 2003
glycerin – Transparency
transparency – Purity
honesty – Natural
natural – Healthy
purity – Vibrant
trustworthy – Trustworthy
traditional

15. PEARS
Definition of beauty stimulus

16. Lakmé Core
• 2000 • 2003
– trustworthy – Indian
– reliable – Mystique
– Indian – Glamour
– mature – Sensual
– suited to Indian skin – In-control
– Innovation

17. LAKMÉ
Definition of beauty stimulus

18. Staying ahead of the pack
• A Lux soap is a beauty bar
• A Coconut oil is a beauty enhancer
• A Shampoo is about transformation
– All these categories use skin as a benchmark to define beauty

19. Future beauty brands
• Shopping and product usage have to be transformed into experiences.
E.g L’Oreal
• Transactions are transformed into relationships. E.g LBS
• Brands are transformed into trusted friends

20. The Arena of Beauty in India
Then & Now

21. This Presentation
• Expresses an opinion that is essentially subjective
• Looks at the notion of beauty as it has developed over time
• Uses ‘evidence’ from a variety of sources from life around us

22. Overall Perspective
• Questioning the implicit ‘evolutionist’ view
• Identifying existent ‘codes’ that govern behaviour
• Mapping change along these codes

23. Beauty: Big changes
• Attire
• Beauty Pageants
• Lipsticks, beauty parlours
• Advertising
• Heroines in movies (heroes too)

24. Beauty…Then
• A rich tradition
• The idea of shringar
• Elaborate science

25. Shringar Rasa
Mudra Kamasutra
Gestures Indian
Art
Courtesans
Megha Kesha
Solah
Singar Role Symbols
Outside
Models
Everyday Life
Rituals
Jasmine
Mrignayani
The Elaborate Inaccessible Idealised Swapna
Bride Ritualisation Perfection Benchmarks Sundari
Core Value
Kajal
Gajgamini
Sandalwood Not for common people
Goddess
Henna Padmini
Royalty
Stories of
Beauty And The Burden of
Valour Beauty

26. Social Context: Overall
• A society driven by restraint
• Strongly hierarchical
• Control over instinct
• “Self-co-ercing and self-disciplining”
• Implicit assumption of no progress

27. Social Context : Women
• Need to control the potentially destructive sexuality of women
• Elaborate rules governing behaviour
• Archetypal roles shaping behaviour
• Primacy of motherhood
• ‘Low shelf life as ornamental beings, high as functional objects’

28. Key Devices
• The Arranged Marriage
• Primacy of Motherhood
• Distance from husband (The Ay-Jee Syndrome)
• Women myths/depictions

29. Overall
• Low transactability of beauty
• Exalted, idealised distancing
• Emphasis on feminine duty
• Beauty inner-directed
• Outlet for women through ritualised expression

30. Beauty Codes
• The primacy of the face
• Features in the face: eyes, hair
• Body shape rounded/hourglass
• Hair signifies instinct: open hair signifying loss of control(sexual,
anger)
• Skin signifying class (rough/smooth)

31. The Changes
• Overall freeing of restraint
• Education
• Political equations within family
• Expanding roles
• Emerging self-confidence
• Sense of control over own domain
• Legitimacy of personal needs
• Gradual freeing of the Mating market

32. Freeing of the Mating Market
• Increasing importance of individual
• Greater acceptance of the idea of mingling between the sexes
• Expansion rather than overthrow of tradition
• “Arranged love marriage”
• Not yet a free market

33. No violation of traditional codes
• Expanding tradition rather than challenging it

34. The Result
• Increasing legitimacy of beauty
• Comfortable sitting together of this desire with traditional codes
• Inner-Outer continuum
• Big changes, no real changes

35. Beauty: The Changes
• An active view
– Hair that is bouncy
– Blurring of shampoo/hair-oil lines
• Real beauty not just symbolic
– Regular parlour visits
– ‘Lighter’ bridal make-up
• Not just inner directed
– The importance of grooming
– The social cost of not looking good

36. Beauty: The Changes
• The importance of female peer groups
– female admiration rather than male admiration
– daily female discussion
• Alignment with health/hygiene rather than sexuality

37. Beauty today: Still distanced from sexuality
• Barring a very small segment, beauty still inner-directed in this area
• The Mating Market not yet a completely free one
• Overt sexual signaling an uncomfortable idea
• Provocative dressing attributed to fashion rather than enhancement of
sex appeal

38. Some Indices: Popular Culture
• The heroine as vamp, without being one
• Male beauty
• Absence of shyness as badge of femininity
• Depictions in advertising

39. And yet...
• No essential change in the archetypes
– Biwi no 1
– DDLJ
– KKHH: Kajol before and after
• ‘Artful Conformity’ to traditional rituals: DDLJ, HDJPK
• Modernity is tradition with waxed legs?

40. Some Indices: Matrimonial
Advertising
• An Analysis of matrimonial advertising in the Times of India and The
Hindustan Times, Delhi editions from 1967 to 1997.
• A sample of 3200 matrimonial ads chosen on the basis of random
sampling, forming snapshots separated by ten-yearly intervals,
starting from 1967.

41. Female beauty is on the rise...
• The importance given to beauty in the last two decades has been on the
rise
• % mentions
1967 1977 1987 1997
38 49 55 63
Beauty refers to the aggregate of the raw scores of “beautiful, good
looking, attractive, and pretty”

42. …In a very specific way
1967 1977 1987 1997
Beautiful 34 37 40 46
Fair 1 15 22 33
Tall/Height 0 36 53 56
Slim 1 15 27 26

43. An example
67 77 87 97
I am a fair girl 2 20 35 44
I want a fair girl 1 11 9 22
• Increasing specificity and range of requirements
mentioned nowadays, as outlined earlier, whereas
in the 60’s fairness would possibly be subsumed
under “beautiful”.

44. An example
67 77 87 97
My height is... 0 60 90 93
I want a tall girl 1 12 16 20
Photographs
1967 1977 1987 1997
0 1 5 28

45. Beauty: Not the sole factor
• Societal attributes have retained their importance
over the time period of the study, with high and
relatively static scores consistently.
1967 1977 1987 1997
Caste 42 44 47 44
Family 31 23 36 33
Region 13 17 21 19

46. Education/Employment
67 77 87 97
I am an educated girl 82 84 80 57
I want an educated girl 31 28 20 38
I am professionally qualif. 8 11 12 41
I want a professionally qualif. 12 16 14 28
• Shift from mere education to qualification
signifying earning capacity

47. Education/Employment
• Employment
67 77 87 97
I am a working girl 22 29 36 44
I want a working girl 7 17 15 15

48. The paradox
67 77 87 97
Homely+Educated
I want a girl 37 34 35 54
Working+Prof.Qual.
I want a girl 15 33 29 43
Horoscope 0 1 3 19

49. Overall
• Rising importance of beauty
• Less exalted, more functional
• Reflected in the increasing specificity of requirements
• Personality dimension not really important at this stage
• Change in degree, not in paradigm

50. Index: Hindi Film Lyrics
• Content analysis of 15oo movie songs from 1950
• Decade by decade analysis

51. Overall
• Rising importance of beauty
• Less exalted, more functional
• A sense of access
• A positive rather than negative relationship
• Sexual motive not very strong
• Romance within marriage highly desirable

52. Beauty today
• Moving from the Inner to the Outer World
• From the ‘Ritual’ to the ‘Real’
• Change continuous but rapid
• Relatively painless blend of tradition with modernity

53. Beauty Skin Deep
Indian and International trends

54. What affects ‘Aging’
• Physiological Factors
like Genetics, Hormones etc...
• Environmental Factors
like pollution, UV rays etc...

55. Changes in skin as we age...
• With age…
– Skin becomes drier
– Patchiness and pigmentation due to unequal distribution of
melanin in the layers of skin
– Layers of skin become thinner
– Ability of skin cells to regenerate lowers

56. Preventive Measures
• Intrinsic Factors • Extrinsic Factors
– Genetic (some people – Stress
have genetically – Diet
acquired good skin, – Exercise
which has greater
resistance to the – Nutritional
aging process) supplements
– Water
– Sleep
– Environment

57. Symptoms of stress
• Tension Headaches
• Insomnia
• Mood swings
• Tightening of neck muscles
• Lack of concentration

58. Prevention of aging by managing External
Factors
• Exercise
– Yoga
– Aerobics
• Diet
– Proper Breakfast is very important
– No. of small meals spaced through the day rather than 2
big meals
– Lots of fruits and vegetables

59. Prevention of aging by managing External
Factors
• Nutritional supplements - A must after 40...
– Vitamin capsules
– Minerals
• Water - very important to cleanse the system
– Must drink enough water in the morning to clean the
gut

60. If not prevention…
Try ‘Age Erasers’
• Local Age erasers (Cosmoceutical)
– Sun - Screen lotions - to protect from UVA and UVB
– Moisturising lotions - which help skin to retain moisture, and hence
prevent drying of skin
– Tretenoin - The retenoids which peel off the dead skin and bring to
top, a younger looking skin
– Peels - Glycolic and Chemical peels

61. If not prevention…
Try ‘Age Erasers’
• Systemic (Anti-oxidants)
– Vitamins A, C and E
– Minerals like Zinc, Copper, Magnesium and Manganese which act as
anti-oxidants and fight the free-radicals that cause premature aging
of skin

62. If not prevention…
Try ‘Age Erasers’
• Dermato- Surgical (Ionotophoresis)
– Face Lifting
– Toning
– Intradermal injections - to lift the Dermis of the desired
part of skin
– Autologus Fat
– Transfers
– Lasers
– Botox injections - a toxin injected to eradicate the ‘Crow’s
Feet’ near the eyes and ‘Frown lines’

63. Conclusion…
• The need for specialized products to help satisfy specific beauty needs,
has originated due to the changing lifestyles, as well as the harsh
environmental changes.
• Consumer today is more aware of her beauty needs, and is more open
to trying out the specialized products.

64. Indian Beauty Aspirations
Beauty for self & Beauty aspired

65. Historical definitions of Beauty
• Beauty is being as close as possible to certain parameters of outward
appearance, regarded as perfect
• We have always been enamoured by what is absent in us and make
every effort to acquire it. The same is true of all beauty needs too.

66. Changing Face of Beauty
• 50s - Overdressed, Heavily jeweled, looking beautiful was a domain of
the upper class.
• 60s and 70s - Miss India became the launching pad for Indian beauties,
Mehr Castellino and Rita Faria set the trends, modeling taken as a
hobby, or at best- a part time profession.
• Women from army background at the forefront of Beauty Pageants.

67. Changing Face of Beauty
• 80s - Early 90s - Modelling became a serious profession, with enough
glamour and money associated with it.
• With Juhi Chawla, Sangeeta Bijlani, Sonu Walia and other Miss India
winners entering Bollywood, Films come up as yet another Career
option for Miss India
• ‘Miss India’ became the ultimate destination of a whole generation of
women.

68. Changing Face of Beauty
• 1994 onwards - With the international triumphs of Sushmita,
Aishwarya, Diana, Manpreet, Yukta, Lara, Priyanka and Diya, the Indian
beauty scene is destined for larger glory in the times to come.
– Increased participation in beauty pageants by the girls from Middle
and Lower-Middle class.

69. Historical Beauty Products
• Cold Creams
• Moisturizers
• Sunscreens
• Face Washes

70. The “Beauty Effect”
• Beauty gives every person a complex - either an inferiority complex or
a superiority complex. Nobody can take beauty as ‘Just another thing to
have’.
• Beauty is given more importance than any other external or internal
quality of a person.

71. Indian Beauty Aspirations
Beauty for self & Beauty aspired

72. Historical definitions of Beauty
• Beauty is being as close as possible to certain parameters of outward
appearance, regarded as perfect
• We have always been enamoured by what is absent in us and make
every effort to acquire it. The same is true of all beauty needs too.

73. Changing Face of Beauty
• 50s - Overdressed, Heavily jeweled, looking beautiful was a domain of
the upper class.
• 60s and 70s - Miss India became the launching pad for Indian beauties,
Mehr Castellino and Rita Faria set the trends, modeling taken as a
hobby, or at best- a part time profession.
• Women from army background at the forefront of Beauty Pageants.

74. Changing Face of Beauty
• 80s - Early 90s - Modelling became a serious profession, with enough
glamour and money associated with it.
• With Juhi Chawla, Sangeeta Bijlani, Sonu Walia and other Miss India
winners entering Bollywood, Films come up as yet another Career
option for Miss India
• ‘Miss India’ became the ultimate destination of a whole generation of
women.

75. Changing Face of Beauty
• 1994 onwards - With the international triumphs of Sushmita,
Aishwarya, Diana, Manpreet, Yukta, Lara, Priyanka and Diya, the Indian
beauty scene is destined for larger glory in the times to come.
– Increased participation in beauty pageants by the girls from Middle
and Lower-Middle class.

76. Historical Beauty Products
• Cold Creams
• Moisturizers
• Sunscreens
• Face Washes

77. The “Beauty Effect”
• Beauty gives every person a complex - either an inferiority complex or
a superiority complex. Nobody can take beauty as ‘Just another thing to
have’.
• Beauty is given more importance than any other external or internal
quality of a person.

78. The “Beauty Effect”
• Women are more beauty conscious than men, and make a continuous
effort to look better than what they are.
• Beautiful women are more likely to get an unfair advantage in every
walk of life… from interviews to careers to finding matches.

79. The Changing Paradigm
(contemporary definitions of beauty)
• ‘Beauty is not just Skin Deep’ - Beauty also consist of other qualities in
a woman.
• Inner beauty is gaining importance and is due to become more
important than the ‘looks’ of a woman.

80. The Changing Paradigm
(contemporary definitions of beauty)
• The emphasis is now on feeling confident - and one way of doing that is
by looking your best.
• Being beautiful is no longer the domain of young women. 90s have
brought forward a whole new generation of working women, and
glamourous moms who want to keep on looking young.

81. Effect of new definitions of beauty in the
Market
• Focus has shifted from General beauty products, like Moisturisers and
Fairness creams to specialized beauty products like Retenoids, Night
creams and peels.
• Products are differentiated according to user’s age, the part of the skin
they affect, fairness, sun protection, cleansing etc...

82. Result - A baffled consumer
• More products promising similar benefits
• Less product loyalty by consumer
• Frequent switching of products
• Confused and unsatisfied consumer

83. Need of the Hour
• Companies to come up with well differentiated products having
specific benefits.
• Need to educate the consumer on their beauty needs, and what
products are available in the market to satisfy that need.
• Women magazines to come forward and act as catalysts for
information disbursement.

85. Indian notion of beauty more holistic than western definitions :
inner and outer beauty
physical and spiritual
natural, inborn vs. acquired
beyond age
balanced beauty
mystique, aura vs. blatant beauty/sensuality
beauty = health (inner and outer)

86. Skin colour (fair, glowing)
Hair (thick, lustrous and healthy black)
Figure (gaining importance across age groups)
Features (sharp, well defined)
Texture of the skin
Grooming (gaining in importance)
Confidence (expressiveness, intelligence,socialibility)

87. 80’s 2000
fairness a key determination skin appearance, texture has
glamour and mystique given gained in importance
importance casual glamour, natural beauty,
inward and less expressive expressive, vital beauty gaining
beauty (self) greater currency
dependent on male evaluation silhouette a major pre-
less stringent norms for occupation
physique and grooming less dependent on male
western influence/icons affirmation
aspirational more stringent norms of
inherent beauty (natural grooming (body confidence)
features, colour, skin/hair more experimentative and
quality texture) open to new expressions of
beauty

88. 2000
sensuality and self discovery key
to feeling and looking good
glamour derived from
clothes (ethnic, western)
lifestyle (accessories, grooming)
occupation (VJs)
confidence redefined to spell
achievement
ambition
control
sexual attractiveness
affluence

89. ASPIRATIONAL EXPRESSIVE
MYSTIQUE/GLAMOUR
SENSUALITY
ATTRACTIVENESS
BEAUTY
ATTAINABLE LESS EXPRESSIVE

90. Semantics
Beauty inborn
linked to fairness, natural attributes
inward, less expressive of self
circumscribed by social norms
traditional construct
linked to male evaluation/affirmation
innocent, self effacing, virginal,
unawakened
potentiality
lacks definition, distinctive identity
mass
NEHA

91. Semantics
Attractiveness can be acquired
- exuberance, vitality
- health, vibrance
- confidence
- grooming
- behaviour, charm
linked to youthfulness
more self projecting and expressive
balance between inner and outer beauty
casual, less contrived
accessible
needs male and others’ affirmation
continues to be socially circumscribed
amorphously defined
JUHI

92. Semantics
Sensuality in touch with own identity and needs
expressive, captivating beauty
not circumscribed by traditional norms
awakened sexuality
beyond youthfulness
dynamic, power led femininity
path breaking, unusual, distinctive
individualistic
acquired beauty :
- body language, mannerisms, speech
- grooming
- confidence
- accessories
- lifestyle - led
- total body
MALAIKA

93. Semantics
Glamour/Mystique timeless, enduring beauty
harmony between self and externalities
signature, distinctive identity
iconic
charismatic
balance of natural assets and enhancement
expressive and wholly feminine
aspirational, not easily attainable
distinctive identity though not always dissonant
with societal norms
REKHA, AISHWARYA, SHYAMOLIE

94. EXPRESSIVE
• SENSUALITY • GLAMOUR • MYSTIQUE
(balance)
• GLAMOUR
(achievement)
INDIVIDUALISTIC SOCIO-CENTRIC
• ATTRACTIVENESS
• BEAUTY
CONTAINED

95. Teens Young Adults Adults
active, energetic, expressive harmony between :
vivacious vivacious, lifestyle and - inner and outer
casual glamour achievement oriented - physical and spiritual
attractiveness glamour glamour and mystique
radiance sensuous radiance youthful radiance
confidence confidence, deportment confidence, success
beauty standards not youthful synthesis of Indian and
stringent : cross cultural appeal; not western beauty
- skin colour necessarily Indianised beauty standards
- features stringent beauty standards becoming more
- hair set by youth : expansive :
transformed beauty - skin colour - acceptance of darker
- hair colour - hair skin colour
- hair style - figure - different types of hair
- features styles
- grooming - features
transformed beauty : untampered beauty
- hair colouring
- body piercing
- hair styles

96. Rural Urban
Fair skin Fair skin but compromise if
Health other attributes are
Film star led beauty outstanding
standards Figure
Urban standards Glamour, contrived beauty
- confidence Grooming
- sociability Confidence
- casual style Sociability
Success, achievement

97. A1+ A/B C/D/E
Individualistic, Individualistic but within Conforms to social
distinctive societal norms standards
Led by identity and Synthesis of western with Indian beauty
expression of self Indian More traditional glamour
Cross cultural appeal Glamorous though icons changing
Glamour but without Stringent definition through films, TV
artifice - skin colour Tradition norms of
More expansive in - features beauty :
denfinition - hair - skin colour
- skin colour not as Grooming and figure - hair
significant becoming important - features
- hair in different - confidence
colours
- features not
necessarily well
defined
high emphasis on
- figure
- grooming
- skin texture

98. COSMETICS FACE SKINCARE PRODUCTS
Face powder Fairness FAL, Vicco, Fairever
Foundation Blemish free Moisturising lotion,
Blushers Radiant cleansing lotion
Smooth, taut, young Face wash
Lipstick
Even complexion
Eye make-up/liners Sunscreen lotion
Balanced oiliness
Shampoo (enriched/
HAIR
Colourants Dark Healthy natural ingredient)
Thick Lustrous Shikakai
Bouncy Problem free Henna
Conditioner
HANDS AND FEET Vaseline PJ
Nail Krack cream
enamel Uncracked Soft
Unlined Without callouses
BODY SKIN
Soft Body lotion
Smooth Massage oil
Hair free

99. Teens/young adults Adults
Problem-free skin Ageless beauty
Smooth, blemish free Taut fresh, unwrinked skin
Fair Protection from sun tan,
Glowing age spots, freckles
Clean, non-oily skin Radiance
Slim figure Firm figure
Beautiful hands/feet Unlined, not cracked
Hairless face/body hands/feet
No hair loss
Sexual attractiveness

100. Beauty parlours
Peers
Glossies
Models, VJs, filmstars
Beauty pageants
Brand advertising
Family traditions/practices

101. Teenagers/young Adults Examples
adults
Beauty Queens Filmstars Aishwarya
Models Celebrities Lara Dutta
VJs Achievers Malaika
Filmstars Bipasha Basu
Karishma
Arundhati Roy
Shobha De

102. Expressive, sensual beauty
Indian glamour
Participating in two worlds of glamour
Less inhibitions about colour cosmetics
Increasing emphasis on figure and slimness
Increasing emphasis on hand/feet beauty
Exposure of body parts higher
Balance between inner and outer beauty desired
Protection of skin basis to preserving skin beauty
More experimentation with hair enhancement/
beautification

103. in ‘quest’ of
beauty
A Mass Market Perspective

104. Who is She
Wives & daughters of men in :
small trade / clerical occupation /skilled labour
salesman watchman auto-drivers
masons vegetable
sellers
supervisor
factory workers
tailor
drivers

105. Who is She
Stays in ……..
Patiala Meerut
Rajkot Varanasi Coimbatore
Guwahati
Calcutta Hyderabad
Nagpur
Delhi Lucknow

106. Who is She
• Housewives or daughters marking time to marriage
• Time largely spent at home involved in household chores
• Supplement income through odd jobs -e.g. papad making
• Little time for leisure or indulgence
• Low educational levels due to early marriage or financial constraints
• Family pressure and restraints rule her life

107. Her Role...
North
as a wife :
•status symbol,
•attract/please their men
East
•Nurturer as an individual:
West
•House Manager •recognition
upkeeper of
- all household chores •‘pampering self’
social network
•Looking after kids •importance of
sensuality
South
individual :
widening of the mind

108. A Day in Her Life
• Time largely spent on household chores and odd jobs to supplement
income
• Colleges /classes attended by young women
• Leisure time in the afternoons to watch TV, read magazines, knit, tailor
• Spruce up in the evening to look good and receive husband
• Time spent with friends by younger women
• Nights devoted to serving dinner and completing house work

109. Who is She
A person with
• limited individuality and empowerment
• limited social network
• identity and self esteem dependant on societal approval

110. Motivations to Looking Beautiful
in laws parents
husband SOCIAL
APPRECIATION friends /
children relatives
Feel good & increases confidence
high self esteem & enhance social acceptance

111. Role of Grooming
• Integral to her life
• Extent varies by :
– occasion
– lifestage
– socio-cultural norms/ expectations
• Color cosmetics enhance looks …. usage proportional to social
interaction

112. Grooming Regime
salwar kameez/ sari
At Home Basic Minimum bindi/ sindoor
talcum
kajal
Casual clean salwar kameez/
Attract Minimum
sari
(shopping) Male Attention
bindis/ sindoor
outing
cream, no oil on hair
kajal
Special Occasions Social Standing & heavy/ new sari
(weddings, Status jewellery, matching
festivals, karva accessories
chauth) sindoor/ mehndi
lipstick/ nail polish/
eyeliner
face powder, cream

113. Concept of Beauty
•good features •educated, intelligent
•fair •smart, command respect
+ •soft, delicate, graceful,
•long,neat hair
homely, pleasing
•slim,good figure
•look good - simple make
up to enhance
Beauty is multi dimensional
however within society norms
But Beauty is All for Others

114. Concept of Beauty
North
•Emphasis on physical features
& adornment
•Cosmetics integral to grooming
especially for married women and more
socially acceptable
West East
•physically fit •focus on sensuality,
•fashionable glamour, makeup , style
•educated •spend more time on self
•not too loud
South
•emphasis on eyes
•jewellery & saris
•multi faceted personality / emphasis
on talents (e.g music)

115. Concept of Beauty
Mass Market Metro upmarket
Woman woman
Look beautiful
+
Feel beautiful
(confidence /intelligence/achievement)
•Beauty for Others •Beauty for Self / Individualistic
(only significant others) •Global Beauty Vision
•Indian Beauty Vision •Fashion Embellishments to add surprise
• Embellishments to add an element and boldness (e.g. body tattoos)
of fashion and modernity (stylised bindis)
• All “feel beautiful “ aspects
strictly within social norms

116. Attitude to Beauty
AGE GROUP NEED / EXPRESSION OF BEAUTY
< 18 years Medium Need -Budding awareness
of beauty
V. Low Expression -Parental Dictat
/Social Constraints
19-24 years High Need -Marriageable Age
Medium Expression -Social Restrictions
-Limited social
network
25 - 28 yrs Medium Need -Married (Objective
of beauty
satisfied)
High Expression -Social
status/expectation
-Lesser restraints

117. Attitude to Beauty
AGE GROUP NEED / EXPRESSION OF BEAUTY
28 - 35 yrs Medium Need -Motherhood
Low Expression -Less time for self
-Involvement with
family
35 - 40 yrs Low Need -No concept of self
Low Expression -All aspirations for
children
-Resigned to their
lot in life

118. Trends in Grooming
PAST PRESENT & FUTURE
Characteristics Characteristics
•Traditional Beauty •Multidimensional personality
(fair skin, long hair) •Education & Small jobs in addition
Little or no Education to home
•Home Maker •More appearance and fashion conscious
•Basic shringar (bindi/sindoor) •More indulgence on self
•Sari •Acceptability of salwars / jeans
•No makeup - only traditional •Greater use of cosmetics and grooming
methods of personal care products
Simplicity & Subservience Beginnings of Empowerment

119. Influencers to Concept of Beauty
A) Social Network / Word of Mouth
Friends - have the maximum credibility
Mothers
Sisters / Sister - in - law
Classmates (esp. upmarket peers)
B) Media
Magazines, TV/Cinema, Advertisments
C) Actresses
D) Window Displays
E) Shopkeepers esp on new products

120. Achieving her dreams by looking beautiful….
Achievement Social Acceptance Freedom
& Empowerment & Admiration & Independance
•education •multi dimensional •romance &
•‘do something’ •“Being better marriage
/be useful than” •increased
•greater material socialization
comfort
These dreams reinforce the need to be beautiful and
well groomed

121. Her Dreams...
younger generation older generation
• dreams are for • wish to realise
attaining some aspirations through
expression of self children

122. However...
will not -
•brook social ostracism
•break norms/rebelling
•be immodest
•attract attention & standout
•neither have a high flying career nor a
household centric life

123. Her Role Models
Kiran Bedi
• social service
• widening her areas of influence
Working/Educated Aishwarya Rai/Kajol
Women : Teachers/
computers/typing
• Good looking & smart
• Some empowerment/ • Exuberant/‘Chanchal’
independence • Multidimensional
• Stand on ones own feet • Modest
• Indian
• Respect/Admiration • Fun loving yet
• In comfortable/non modest
threatening surrounding
...ALL WITHIN SOCIAL BOUNDARIES

124. Role of Beauty
•Independence
Freedom of choice
Work, education
SELF ACTUALISATION
•Role as woman
Feminine, supportive
Admiration
SELF ESTEEM
Beauty
•Reaffirm marital status BELONGINGNESS
‘Not less than’
•Within boundaries SECURITY
Traditional
BASIC / PHYSIOLOGICAL
Beauty plays a role in moving up the hierarchy

125. The Beauty Signatures

126. About Beauty
……There is only one benefit in the face care category.
It has many faces, a myriad of looks, and can be
achieved in many many different ways. It is
something women universally believe in, and their
hopes come to rely on countless jars, tubes and pots.
……Whose jar they buy often comes down to whose
dream they will believe. Who holds out the most
hope? Who can they really believe?
What the branded jars & tubes stand for ...

127. Olay
• Olay is a Brand about traditional, timeless, pleasing beauty. It is trusted, down-to-
earth, mindful and familiar.
• Olay’s beauty is for an independent, balanced woman, who appreciates the added
authority that comes when she believes a product does what it says.
• The Olay woman wants to look younger, although recently, Olay is helping her
celebrate her age, with products that she knows will make a difference to her skin,
because Olay very rationally communicates desired benefits (backed up by third
party endorsements).
• Olay is also for the practical, realistic woman who accepts ageing with grace.(and
does not believe the hype, anyway, of many anti-ageing claims.)
• Olay’s beauty theory is widening lately - to also encompass the belief that a
woman’s beauty has as much to do with her energy and her personality, as it does
with her skin.

128. L’Oreal
• L’Oreal has prestige & allure that capitalises on a scientific, innovation
driven heritage, and French beauty expertise. It represents achievable
glamour, confidence, and a worldly professionalism.
• L’Oreal’s beauty theory is focussed on perfection: the attainment of
perfect skin, and perfect hair. It is an aspirational, sophisticated,
innovative, aesthetic beauty, idealised to the icons of the moment from
the world of film or fashion.
• Famous ‘perfect’ faces best capture L’Oreal’s beauty. L’Oreal holds out the
hope that every woman deserves the ultimate in scientific skin care
advancements to make them more glamorous and beautiful.

129. L’Oreal’s Beauty Theory (contd...)
• The L’Oreal woman is perceived as self confident and
self-indulgent. She is a highly aspirational woman who wants to fight
ageing all the way, and always looks for the latest new
product news.
• The glam women who adorn L’Oreal are Claudia Schiffer,
Vanessa Williams, Andie McDowell, Milla Jovovich, Uma
Thurman….. and the likes

130. • Nivea is a warm hearted, caring brand in the world of beauty. Its natural,
family associations imbue it with a sense of care and trustworthiness in
the category.
• It has a strong heritage, and in a category rife with ‘skeptics’, is seen as a
reliable and trustworthy brand.
• There is clearly a healthy outdoors aspect to Nivea’s theory of beauty
(Nivea Visage). It offers a beauty world filled with (blonde) healthy young
women who are actively athletic, fit, and enjoy being outdoors. Yet Nivea
also offers a more refined refuge: feminine, classy, subtle, relevant and
intelligent..

131. Nivea Visage (contd…)
• Nivea theory of beauty has many interpretations.
• Aspects of the Nivea personality are both modern and innocent. Nivea
beauty is softly feminine, graceful…… caring.
• It is cosmetic, but also ‘all family’, and always reliable.

132. Neutrogena’s Beauty Theory
• Neutrogena’s beauty is a healthy, young beauty. It is about care,
maintenance, and prevention. A healthy approach to skin, for
healthy skin. And for a sheer, crisp, modern beauty.
• Neutrogena offers a fresh, squeeky clean approach to skin care. It
does not make nor does it accept, excuses. It is idealised to the
young icons of the moment. Not perfect beauty. But lively beauty,
young and always glowing.
• Neutrogena is also energetic beauty, and the healthy skin it offers
you keeps your beauty transparent.
• Neutrogena is credible and trustworthy, and is always
dermatologist recommended, so you can trust it to really do what
it says.

134. Estee Lauder
 Estee Lauder presents products that are ‘luxurious, classic
and aspirational’.
 Renowned for its high quality, innovative and technologically
advanced products.
 The Estee Lauder beauty is sophisticated, confident & a
trendsetter.
 It is a ‘label name’ and Liz Hurley accentuates that with her
celebrity status, carried off with a lot of panache & style.

135. Lancôme Paris
- The Irresistiblé French charm
• Lancôme believes that beauty is a rose that holds out to the whole world. Here
beauty of a woman goes way beyond appearances, as an emotion lying at the very
surface of skin
• When daring culture and charm combine with beauty, the result is French-style art
of living which Lancôme delights in delivering to
the whole world.
An art of living bathed in soft tones of simple and refined elegance
• Lancôme balances its technological innovations & scientific know-how with
products scented with a dash of sensuality & allure.
• Lancôme's muses are women who know how to maintain their mystery with humor.
They incarnate harmony and vitality, audacity and love of life.
• From 1983-1995 Isabelle Rossellini established the image of the Lancôme woman -
woman of original beauty sublimated by intelligence, action and audacity.
She was followed other femme fatales who while being hypnotic are spontaneous
and mischievous.

136. Dove (draft )
• Dove beauty has as much to do with how a woman feels, as how she looks
• For Dove, beauty is strength, a sense of confidence and the attractiveness
that comes from a woman who fundamentally believes in herself and in
her femininity.
• Dove’s beauty is a confident feminine beauty. The total woman is what
matters, inside and out. Not just her hair, or how her skin looks. But rather
how she feels in herself, and as a woman.
• The Dove woman is attractive, warm, genuine, and understands the power
of a smile. She will often have a twinkle in her eye. She is charismatic,
thoughtful, spontaneous, and believes it is important to look after herself.
She wants to be the best she can be.
• Her relationship with the Dove Brand has a strong foundation of respect,
understanding, trust and high expectations, and the belief that Dove is a
partner with whom she can indulge her sense of femininity.

137. FACE CARE BRAND MATRIX
Olay L’Oreal Nivea (Visage) Neutrogena
Brand Values Authoritative, Innovative, Warm, gentle Credible,
trusted, authoritative caring, trusted trusted,
knowledgeable, knowledgeable reliable innovative
experienced hi-tech
Beauty Theory Timeless, Ideal beauty Natural Vibrant,
traditional, (perfection) (healthy?) youthful
pleasing beauty through scientific beauty thru’ beauty thru’
state-of-the-art science clean, healthy
innovations skin
Core Target Med to heavy Heavy category Light to med 16-30, light to
category users users users (30+) med cat users
Benefits Anti ageing, Anti-ageing, Anti-age Pore mgmt,
moisturisation, firming (younger (wrinkle free skin)
‘complete care’ looking skin) (healthy skin)

138. FACE CARE BRAND MATRIX
Olay L’Oreal Nivea (Visage) Neutrogena
Reason toVitaniacin, Visible results Q10 AHAs for
Believe 3rd party in lmtd time, ingredient RTB clear clean
endorsement ingredient as skin . Menu
(proof) RTB of RTB
Products Protective Revitalift Alpha Flavon, Clear Pore
Renewal Lotion Futur-e Moisturisers, range
Total Effects Turning Point Anti-Ageing Healthy skin
Line Eraser (anti-ageing)
White Perfect
Hydrafresh

139. FACE CARE BRAND MATRIX
Dove Estee Lauder Lancôme
Brand Values Credible, Prestige Innovations,
nuturing innovation, hi-tech, authority
affirming, luxury style
capable
Beauty Theory Confident Sophisticated Sensuous beauty
feminine beauty beauty thru’ through tech supported
thru’ healthy, innovative complete range of
looked after skin. range of prodts prodts.
Core Target Light-med Heavy category Heavy category
category users users users
Benefits Skin nourishment, Anti-ageing, glowing Anti-ageing, glowing
moisturisation, skin, nourishment skin, nourishment
cleansing,
nourished, glowing
skin

140. FACE CARE BRAND MATRIX
Dove Estee Lauder Lancôme
Reason to 1/4 moisturising Ingredients as RTB Ingredients
Believe cream as RTB
Products Cleansers, Anti-ageing range, Anti-ageing range,
Moisturisers Moisturisers, Moisturisers,
Colour Mgmt Colour Mgmt

141. Beauty Signatures
Olay - Timeless
L’Oreal - ‘Ideal’ beauty; perfection
Nivea - Natural, healthy, warm
Neutrogena - Healthy, youthful, clean
Estee Lauder - Sophisticated
Lancôme - Sensuous
Dove - Confident femininity

142. Beauty Definition Matrix
Spirit
INNATE DEVELOPED
Body

143. Savoir Faire Olay Bold L’OréaL
a balanced woman, independent, inner character risk taker, upwardly mobile, wealthy, career,
confident, doesn’t try to impress anyone or be liked successful, sex thru’ power, professional, confident
Warm Hearted Spirit Enigmatic
warm, generous, inviting, sincere, maternal, mysterious, exotic, captivating, has a past,
care-taking kind of person Nivea has secrets
Joie de Vivre Refined Estee Lauder
life-loving, carefree, spirited, natural, fun, classy, subtle, refined, good taste, intelligent
uninhibited, young, happy cultured, artistic
INNATE DEVELOPED
Innocent Chic
l’il girls’ innocence, virginal, romantic, first kiss, woman who dresses in a chic but sporty way, wears
face bonnet pearl necklaces, Hermes scarf
Lâncome
Healthy Neutrogena Sensual
healthy, young woman, active, clean, outdoorsy, athletic, alluring woman, sensual,
sporty, biking, hiking, horseback, riding, physically fit provocative, voluptuous, naked shoulder
Natural Body Sexual
natural woman, unadorned, pure, nature oriented sexy, red hot, animalistic, erotic, dominated
all nite sex, very sexually out there