Pangoly is a free service that helps you pick the best hardware and peripherals for your new PC build, according to your budget and personal needs.

1. BUILD YOUR SHINY NEW
PC, WITH PANGOLY

2. WELCOME!
Pangoly is a free service that
helps you pick the best
hardware and peripherals for
your new PC build, according to
your budget and personal
needs.
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3. 1.
About us
Let’s start with some infos about our
service
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4. Where are we located
Milan, Italy
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5. 5 Regional sites
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6. 339,946hardware components have been safely
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7. 7
BUILDING TO THE
NEXT LEVEL
Learn tips & tricks,
discover brand new
parts, build your own
configurations, compare
hardware components
head to head.

8. “It's hardware that makes a machine
fast. It's software that makes a fast
machine slow.
-Craig Bruce

9. 2.
Our building guidelines
Let’s learn how to build a perfect PC
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10. How to choose: Processors
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11. How to choose: Processors
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A6-6400K/A8-6600K and most recent A6-7400/A8-7600 are good models of APUs (Accelerated processing unit - A
name given by AMD to its own new generation CPUs) for limited budgets and for people who don’t want to invest
a lot of money on a dedicated graphic card. They are optimal choices for HTPCs or in general for whom is using the
PC mainly to watch movies, browse the internet and using Microsoft Office. However, they are not very suitable for
playing video games, where you will not have a very good frame rate, even at lower resolutions.
Much more powerful are the new Intel i3 processors. These dual core CPUs, used in combination with a good
dedicated graphic card, will allow you to play most of the video games without problems. Their architecture makes
them even faster than AMD quad cores, with fewer exceptions for heavy multi threaded applications. Compared to
AMD CPUs, they heat up and consume much less power, so we highly recommend them as it's probably the best
choice for the average user.
For people who desire more performance, our recommendation is a processor from new Intel i5 generation. These
CPUs are the best choice for a mid/high-end PC, being able to take advantage of any graphic card full potential,
while keeping an acceptable price. K series CPUs are suggested only for only for users that like to overclock
their processors, if you do not have any intentions to overclock your processor, you should save some money by
picking the normal version of the CPU.
If you intend to make intensive use of multi threaded applications, then the best choice would be a processor from
the Intel i7 generation. The key difference compared to the Intel i5 generation is the use of hyper threading, which is
not used in video games.

12. How to choose: Motherboards
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13. How to choose: Motherboards
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When picking a motherboard, your first priority is to make sure it has the right socket to match the CPU. Intel offers
two different sockets: the classic socket 1150 for Haswell, and the new 1151 for Skylake. Regarding AMD instead we
find the socket AM3 + (for most of the CPU) and the socket FM2 (for the APUs).
The second priority is the motherboard chipset. For Intel we find: Z170 (socket 1151) - is the best of the best, but it
is relatively expensive, so it is recommended only to those who overclocks or is interested in Crossfire / SLI.
Moreover, unlike in the past, you do not need high-end motherboards to have good results in overclocking, so our
suggestion remains Z170 midrange as the ASUS Z170-A, the GIGABYTE GA-Z170X-Gaming 5 or MSI GAMING Z170A
M5. It is worth to choose the top models only if you need the features they offer. H170 (socket 1151) - is the best
choice for the average user: with the exception of overclocking and bandwidth limitations on the second PCI-e slot
in addiction to lower RAM frequency support, the Z170 offers the same features at a price much lower.
About AMD, between FM2 chipsets the fundamental differences are: A55 doesn't have native support for USB 3.0
and SATA 3, while it supports RAID 0,1,10; A75 supports 4 ports USB 3, 6 ports SATA 3 and RAID 0,1,10; A88X - adds
support PCI-e gen3 and new CPU Kaveri. Given the modest price difference, we suggest A88X chipset based
motherboards like ASUS A88XM-A or the GIGABYTE GA-F2A88XM-D3H. With AM3+ socket we find the 970, 990X and
990FX chipsets, all with SATA 3 support, while the USB 3.0 support is entrusted to a third party controller. The main
differences between these sockets concern the PCI-E lines and their distribution: if you're not interested in a multi
GPU configuration build you can safely go with a 970. The 990X offers Crossfire/SLI support with two slots working at
8x. With the 990FX you can have a system working with 2 graphic cards at 16x, or 4 graphic cards working at 8x.

14. How to choose: Memory
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15. How to choose: Memory
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Unlike the past, RAM speed and timings have a very marginal impact on real performance. Our pick falls on
DDR4-2400 models, with the exception if price difference with DDR4-3200 is close to minimal. The same goes for
DDR3, so we recommend the 1600 MHz. There is an exception for APUs: since RAM is also used as VRAM, graphic
performances are affected in a concrete way by memory speed. In these cases it can be convenient to spend a little
more and take DDR3-2133 memory. Motherboards with chipset H170 have limitations so it is useless to go beyond
DDR4-2133.
Dual channel does not drastically influence performance, so using two modules instead of one is not mandatory. If
you are looking to upgrade in the future, it is recommended to buy just one module. Otherwise a memory kit
consisting of multiple modules remains the best choice.
The recommended minimum RAM quantity is currently 4GB for low-end systems. Some video games or
applications might be more RAM intensive, so 8GB is the recommended value for most systems. Any higher value
might be really expensive and not necessary unless it is required for specific applications that demand a lot of
memory, but it can still be a good investment. There are no specific recommended brands or models, just make
sure the above criteria matches to what you are actually looking for (quantity, speed and voltage).

16. How to choose: Graphic Cards
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17. How to choose: Graphic Cards
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Picking a graphic card is relatively easy, if you look to the benchmarks and determine your price range.
We recommend the AMD R7 360 Series or the NVIDIA GTX 950 Series for a good compromise of details and fps with
the most recent video games, and not above a GTX 1070 if you are using only a single monitor with full HD
(1080p or bigger) resolution. Spending more money is only logical when using higher resolutions or multi monitor
configurations.
In the middle we find cards like GTX 1060 or RX 480 which are an optimal alternative with good pricing and are the
best choice for most of the users.
Once you have picked your card, you have to decide the specific model. Some models are equal to the producer
reference board (AMD or NVIDIA) and in that case there isn't really a good reason to choose one over the other.
Sometimes manufacturers decide to personalize card layout, components, heat sinks and running frequencies.
When is a specific manufacturer’s card worth it? That really depends. Some examples are both R9 290 and 290X,
two great graphic cards but with poor standard heat sinks featuring high running temperatures and noise.
Aftermarket heat sinks versions solve the problem, so they're absolutely recommended. It is not convenient
to spend more to choose only slightly overclocked models, or in some cases where the custom heatsink does not
bring any significant advantage compared to the reference one.
Should I buy 2 slower cards instead of a single more powerful one at the same price? The answer is no, with some
exceptions. Within low/mid range market it is always more convenient to pick a single card. SLI/Crossfire support is
very variable depending per video game, and in most cases the advantage is negligible.

18. How to choose: Power Supplies
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19. How to choose: Power Supplies
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The power supply is one of the most important and underrated components for users with little experience.
As opposed to what the manufacturers want us to believe, nowadays computers consume a lot less energy than in
the past. Therefore it's not needed to pick a power supply with exorbitant Watts.
Power supply calculators are often unreliable, suggesting power supplies with more watts than you would
actually need. The fundamental factor is build quality: a good 500 watt power supply can be better than an
economic 700 watt one. Unfortunately, the quality is very variable and also power supplies of the same brand can
still differ a lot. The only advice is to read about it on specialized websites, such as jonnyguru.com.
Picking the right wattage requires to evaluate CPU and graphic card consumption first. Every computer with an APU
o low-end graphic card will consume very little, so power supplies like the Corsair CX430 and its modular version
Corsair CX430M are a best-buy. A good cheap alternative is the EVGA 500B. For a mid/high-end computer, a good
quality 550W power supply is more than enough, 650W if you choose video cards that consume a lot and you don't
want to take risks. Models like the SeaSonic G-550 and Corsair RM650i offer great quality and Gold efficiency
certification. To save some money, Bronze certified like the Antec HCG-520M or the XFX TS Gold Series 550W are a
good alternative.
If you don't feel safe and want some more watts, then we recommend the SeaSonic G-650 (which is the best buy),
the XFX TS Gold Series 650W or the top quality SeaSonic SS-660XP with Platinum certification.
Above 650W is a sensible choice only for those who have a multi GPU configuration. A good economic choice is the
XFX Pro Series 750W, both Core Edition (not modular version) and Black Edition (modular version). An excellent model
with 80 PLUS Platinum certification is the Corsair HX750i. For the highest build quality there is the Corsair AX760
Platinum.
Remember: NEVER buy cheap power supplies as they can cause irreversible damage to other components.

20. “I do not fear computers. I fear the
lack of them.
-Isaac Asimov

21. How to choose: Cases
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22. How to choose: Cases
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We will not judge the aesthetic factor, as purely subjective. Important features when picking a case that should be
considered are:
● Ventilation and air flow.
● Cable management.
● The space available to install long video cards and tall CPU coolers.
● USB 3.0 slots availability.
● The number and location of installable fans.
● The assembly support of radiators.
● Hot swap bays for hard disks.
● Tool-less mounting systems.
The build quality is also very important and it is better to still prefer aluminum to plastic cases. Unfortunately it is
not easy to evaluate and in many cases we just have to trust the reviews. An economic model but definitely a very
good case is the Antec One, which we found superior to many more expensive cases.
Among our favourites there is the series Corsair Carbide, with various models covered in all price ranges. Good
alternatives in high-end mid tower are the Antec P280 and the Fractal Design Define R5 or the Cooler Master 690 III.
If you have enough space, you can opt for a full tower of quality like the Cooler Master HAF X, the Antec Twelve
Hundred V3 or the Fractal Design Define XL R2.

23. How to choose: Hard Disks and SSD
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24. How to choose: Hard Disks and SSD
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A SSD is a highly recommended purchase as it ensures a great performance boost of the system in terms of
speed and response. Its only downside is the higher price compared to a traditional HDD. A SSD of 240/256GB
capacity should be more than enough to install the operating system and most used applications.
The Samsung 850 Pro is our favourite pick if it's allowed by your budget, otherwise the Samsung 850 EVO, Crucial
BX and MX are cheaper alternatives, but still good options. Recently, there are also spreading the first models of
SSD's on PCI-e slot as the Plextor M6E, whose performance goes beyond the limit of SATA 3. But they have a higher
price that we believe still does not justify the purchase. They are however the best that the market has to offer for
those who have no restrictions in their budget.
HDD: the most important feature of a HDD is definitely the reliability, which unfortunately is not easy to
measure. Most of the tests indicates that Western Digital are the most reliable over time, and so they are our first
choice. The performance difference between Black and Blue series is difficult to perceive in everyday use, therefore
we recommend the latter as it's definitely cheaper. Green series are instead very good disks for storage, using them
side by side with an SSD, far more less for installing applications. The Seagate Barracuda are less reliable (but still
good) and have better performance than WD, so they are a compelling alternative.

25. How to choose: Sound Cards
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26. How to choose: Sound Cards
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Do we still need a dedicated sound card? For most users the answer is no. The integrated audio quality has
improved a lot and the are some chips, like the Realtek ALC1150, that have no disadvantages compared to
dedicated sound cards. Users very critical on having the best sound possible can still satisfy their needs by picking
up the various models of ASUS Xonar.
We do not recommend the Creative X-Fi due the many problems with drivers experienced by a significant
amount of users.

27. How to choose: Monitors
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28. How to choose: Monitors
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Monitors are one of the most difficult components to choose as you have to find a good compromise between its
pros and cons. The first general advice is to ignore all of the manufacturers' specifications because very often
do not correspond to reality. Most of the times the actual values ​​of contrast, brightness, response time, viewing
angles, etc. do not come anywhere close to those indicated. The only way to know the true quality of a monitor is to
rely on the reviews. The important information to take into account is:
● Resolution: 1080p is the standard now. Only monitors smaller than 22'' have a lower resolution. Up to 27'' is
an acceptable size for a monitor (and included it has a full HD resolution), while more than that may be
poorly defined. However with increasing resolution it will also increase the hardware requirements for
games. And take into consideration that it is not recommended to buy a monitor with a 2560x1600
resolution, if the computer is not able to handle it properly.
● Panel technology: Until a few years ago almost all the panels were of the TN type. These panels have the
advantage of being very cheap and have a good responsiveness, but the quality of the colors, contrast and
viewing angles are left to be desired. Lately the prices of IPS panels have gone down dramatically, and this
has made them very competitive.The advantages of IPS panels are superior viewing angles and color fidelity,
but they are also generally less responsive compared to TN panels. There are exceptions: some IPS monitors
are able to compete in terms of responsiveness with most of the TN panels.

29. How to choose: Monitors (part 2)
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● Refresh rate: another fairly recent innovation is the introduction of monitors with a refresh rate of 120Hz or
144Hz. Almost all of these monitors have 3D support, or allow you to play in 2D having a feeling of an
incredible fluidity. At the moment this technology is restricted to TN and VA panels, but 120Hz IPS panels
should soon be available.
The perfect monitor does not exist. So what should you purchase? If you have a limited budget, you do not have
many choices. You will have to necessarily settle for a 60Hz TN as the ASUS VS248H-P (or ASUS VS248H)or the BenQ
GL2460HM.
For those who want to enjoy the most out of the video games, especially the fast paced ones like FPS or
sports games, you should opt for a 120/144Hz TN monitor as the BenQ XL2420Z, the BenQ XL2720Z or the Asus
VG278HE. Between 120Hz and 144Hz there is not a noticeable difference, so we wouldn't put it among the factors
to be taken into account.
Excellent all-round monitors are with responsive IPS that allow you to have a good quality, without having to give
up the gaming side. Among these, our choice falls on the EIZO Foris FS2333, with good alternatives being the Dell
UltraSharp U2414H, the U2312HM and the ASUS PA248Q.
If you are heavily focused on quality, then the Dell UltraSharp U2713HM is the monitor for you.

30. How to choose: Keyboards
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31. How to choose: Keyboards
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Mechanical keyboards, or keyboards with a single individual mechanical switch below every key, have had an
explosion of popularity lately, although in reality the underlying technology is the same that belonged to the first
historical keyboards. So what are the advantages of mechanical compared to the classic membrane keyboards to
which we are accustomed to?
● Minimize typos: depending on switch type, not only is it possible to have a tactile feedback after pressing a
key, but you will no longer have to wonder if the pressure was successful or not. Once you are familiar with
the feeling of pressure, you will have the certainty of pressing the key and typing errors due to the double
key press will be minimized. Moreover, the sound of a mechanical keyboard definitely reinforces the tactile
feedback.
● More resistant and durable: one of the best advantages of mechanical keyboards is that they are made ​​to
be durable and suitable for intensive use. Depending on the model chosen, these keyboards are certified for
tens of millions of key presses, far beyond the standards of the membrane. In addition to this the keys are
easily removable, making the mechanical keyboard extremely simple and fast to clean.
● A much more pleasant typing experience: while being quite subjective, the majority of people who use a
mechanical keyboard daily confirm that the use is much more satisfactory. The sound and the security given
by the pressure of the keys to avoid typing errors, allows you to enjoy the maximum pleasure of writing. In
addition, according to some studies, the mechanical keyboards can relieve the symptoms of carpal tunnel.

32. How to choose: Keyboards (part 2)
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● Less response time: all keys, after pressing them, have a settling time that generates a series of not
registered successive presses. This would lead to the registration of multiple pressures but in reality is
avoided by the keyboard controller that ignores the button for a certain time after the pressure. Depending
on the quality of the contact, the delay is between 2 and 50 milliseconds. The Cherry MX mechanical
switches need 5 milliseconds to wait for a new record pressure.
● Anti-Ghosting: with ghosting we refer to the phenomenon common in keyboards so that, after a certain limit
(2 or 3 keys), the keys do not work pressing them simultaneously. This problem is due to the keyboard
electrical wiring. The anti-ghosting is the name of what the manufacturers of keyboards use to restrict and in
some cases eliminate this problem. In practice, they just calibrate some key combinations to work perfectly,
but this does not mean that the keyboard does not come back to have problems if you move away from
those combinations. The mechanical keyboards with a PS/2 connector offer unlimited simultaneous
pressures (NKRO, n-key roll-over) while the USB ones usually only 6 simultaneous pressures (6KRO, 6 keys
roll-over) due to USB protocol limitations (polling).

33. How to choose: Mouse
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34. How to choose: Mouse
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The choice of which mouse is rather subjective. However, there are some important guidelines that you can follow
that will allow making a more accurate selection of which mouse you are going to buy. It is important to consider:
● Sensor: it is essential to establish the quality of the mouse. Nowadays there are two kinds of sensors: optical
and laser. The first use of a LED light to illuminate the surface to be acquired as an image, the latter use a
diode laser to track the movements, achieving higher resolutions of the captured image compared to a
normal LED.
● Hand Grip: there are 3 types of hand grips. The palm grip, which is the most common way that the palm of
the hand and fingers extended rest entirely on the surface of the mouse. The claw grip, where the fingers
are kept as an arc and only the fingertips resting on the mouse. And finally, the fingertip grip, much like the
claw grip with the difference that the palm of the hand rests on the pad instead of on the mouse.
● CPI (or DPI): these are the samplings per inch of surface (erroneously many use DPI that instead refers to a
term used in the printing on paper) that the sensor is able to acquire. However, it is important to emphasize
that a higher value of this feature does not imply a better mouse. Indeed, it is often the opposite. Some
manufacturers use software to create artificially sampling interpolated between two real, thus increasing the
number of CPI at the expense of the accuracy of sampling. We stress the fact that a high number of
samplings are exploited only at high resolutions and by the players that use a very high sensitivity in game.
To make a very rough calculation of the CPI that we really need, you can do this: multiply by 4 the horizontal
resolution used in the game by dividing by the number of inches required to perform a 360° circle with the
mouse in an FPS game.

35. How to choose: Mouse (part 2)
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● For example, using the classical HD resolution (1920x1080) and doing a 360 ° 20cm (approximately 8 ") the
approximate calculation will be: 1920 * 4/8 = 1000 CPI (DPI). So in this case the maximum number of
samples per inch we're going to take advantage of it will be about 1000 CPI (DPI).
● Lift-off distance: this is the height to which the sensor of the mouse will continue to process the images
acquired after being lifted from the surface. Low values allow repositioning of the mouse on the surface with
minimal deviations of the cursor due to sampling side while lifting.
● Polling rate: this is the number of times per second in which the mouse communicates with the computer
regarding movement. The standard USB port is 125Hz (or 125 communications per second). This standard is
inappropriate in the gaming environment, where responsiveness is a key element. For this reason we always
recommended you to set (even with the mouse driver if it allows it) a minimum polling rate of 500Hz (2ms
latency) o 1000Hz (1ms latency). Both offers undeniable benefits compared to default 125Hz with 8ms
latency.
In case you were wondering about wireless mice. Our advice is the following: if you're looking for a gaming mouse,
wireless mice should be absolutely avoided. Their performances are not at all comparable, even to a mediocre
wired mouse.
The best mice we tested and which we would recommend to purchase are the Logitech G502, the Logitech G303
and the Razer DeathAdder 2013.

36. “Any sufficiently advanced
technology is indistinguishable
from magic.
-Arthur C. Clarke

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