Version 4 dhx service guide

Fox DHX Coil Rebuild
Introduction:

This
is
a
guide
to
tearing
down
and
rebuilding
a
Fox
Racing
Shox
DHX
3/4/5
Coil
shock.
It
shows
the
user
how
to:

-‐ Dismantle
the
shock

-‐ Clean
internal
parts

-‐ Disassemble
the
Propedal
valve
and
spring

-‐ Disassemble
the
Rebound
assembly
(see
disclaimer)

-‐ Replace
internal
o-‐rings

-‐ Replace
main
shaft
seal
o-‐ring

-‐ Replace
oil

-‐ Reassembly
of
the
shock
unit

Note:

Disclaimer:

Fox
Racing
Shox
does
not
endorse
this
guide!

By
proceeding
with
this
guide,
the
instant
you
open
your
shock,
you
voluntarily
and
knowingly
forfeit
any
warranty

that
came
with
the
shock.

Rebound
Disassembly
requires
the
use
of
a
propane
torch
to
soften
loctite
used
to
secure
rebound
adjuster
eyelet
to

shock
shaft.
Soften
of
the
loctite
is
required
to
remove
the
eyelet.
BE
EXTREMELY
CAREFUL
WHEN
HEATING
THE

EYELET;
ONLY
HEAT
GENTLY
UNTIL
IT
IS
HOT
TO
TOUCH.
PROLONGED
HEATING
WILL
CAUSE
DAMAGE
TO
EYELET

AND
SHAFT
ASSEMBLY.

Do
not
proceed
with
these
procedures
if
you
are
not
mechanically
inclined!

If
you
have
a
tendency
to
round/strip
every
screw
you
touch,
put
the
tools
down
NOW!
Any
damage
you
cause
to

your
shock
due
to
your
own
mistakes
is
YOUR
FAULT.
Do
not
expect
any
sympathy
from
me,
or
any
sympathy
from

Fox
(or
warranty).
YOU
have
to
pay
to
have
the
unit
fixed.
This
guide
was
devised
with
care,
with
information
gained

from
a
number
of
sources.
This
procedure
works
if
carried
out
CAREFULLY
and
with
PATIENCE.

I
AM
NOT
RESPONSIBLE
FOR
ANY
DAMAGE
YOU
CAUSE
TO
YOUR
SHOCK,
BIKE,
PERSONA
OR
SURROUNDS,
USE

COMMON
SENSE
AND
TAKE
THE
FIRST
FEW
RIDES
EASY,
TO
ENSURE
YOU
HAVE
CORRECTLY
REPAIRED
THE
SHOCK.

WARNING!

READ
ALL
Instructions
twice
before
you
commence
with
the
rebuild,
and
ensure

you
understand
its
procedures

PDF compression, OCR, web optimization using a watermarked evaluation copy of CVISION PDFCompressor

Preliminaries

Tool
list:

-‐ Spanners
-‐ Long
Nose
Snap
ring
pliers
-‐ Small
block
of
wood
(to
create
makeshift
shaft
clamp)
-‐ Propane
torch
-‐ Loctite
thread
lock

-‐ Wooden
vice

-‐ Soft
jaw
vice

-‐ Long
nose
pliers

-‐ O-‐ring
/
Dental
picks
(for
removal
of
o-‐rings)

-‐ Clean
rags

-‐ Clean
work
bench

-‐ Oil
drip
Pan

-‐ Safety
glasses

-‐ Small
Breaker
Bar

-‐ 11mm
Drill
bit

Parts
list:

-‐ Replacement
o-‐rings,
the
best
way
to
get
these
is
to
take
the
removed
o-‐rings
to
a
local
0-‐ring
supplier
and
get

them
sized
up
properly
for
replacement
ones,
I
also
recommend
you
buy
a
good
amount
of
each,
it’s
always

good
to
have
spares
for
next
time,
label
them
and
put
them
in
a
compartment
container

-‐ Fork/shock
oil.
Ensure
you
use
a
high
quality,
fully
synthetic
oil.
I
use
10W
Castrol
Fully
synthetic
fork
fluid.
The

DHX
comes
stock
with
10W
Fox
Fluid
(rebadged
Silkolene
pro
RSF
10)
If
you
wish
to
use
a
different
weight
oil,

this
sight
has
a
lot
of
useful
info
on
shock
oil;

http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/bikesuspension.htm-‐

Further
Information:

Here
is
a
list
of
websites
that
have
a
lot
of
useful
information
on
rear
shocks,
for
anyone
who
is
interested
in
learning

more
about
their
rear
shocks.

• Information
on
EVERYTHING
regarding
suspension,
explaining
different
types
of
damper
systems,
set

up
info
on
a
range
of
shocks
etc;
these
site’s
are
well
worth
reading
through!
:

http://www.krankin.co.nz/_sgt/m6m9_1.htm

http://users.actrix.co.nz/dougal.ellen/setup.html

http://users.actrix.co.nz/dougal.ellen/tuning.html

• Some
useful
info
on
how
to
mod
shim
stacks,
for
those
who
are
interested
in
modifying
their
shim:

stacks,
(undertake
this
at
your
own
risk!)

http://www.deycore.com/tuning_tips.htm

• Website
with
lots
of
info
regarding
things
like
oil
weights
etc:

http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/bikesuspension.htm

Righto,
if
you
feel
confident,
and
have
read
this
guide
at
least
twice
(yes
that
was
an
instruction!),
clean
your

work
area,
gather
your
tools,
and
lets
begin!


STEP
1:
Removing
shock

1. Firstly,
you
will
need
to
remove
shock
from
your
bike;
it
will
be
different
on
every
bike,
so
if
you
don’t

know
how
to
remove
your
shock,
STOP
NOW!

2. After
you
have
removed
the
shock
from
the
bike,
place
on
your
work
bench,
and
give
it
a
good
wipe
over

with
a
clean
cloth,
to
remove
dust
and
dirt

3. Next
remove
you
spring,
and
in
my
case,
my
shock
boot

4. Back
off
all
adjustments
(Least
Propedal,
Bottom
Out
and
Rebound)

5. DEFLATE
THE
BOOST
VALVE!

6. Give
the
shock
body
a
good
clean,
you
don’t
need
any
dirt
or
debris’s
getting
inside
the
shock

7. Clamp
the
shock
body
in
a
wooden
vice


STEP
2:
Removing
Bottom
Out
Adjuster

8. Loosen
the
two
grub
screws
on
the
bottom
out
adjuster
with
a
hex
key

9. Remove
the
adjuster,
and
set
it
aside

10. Using
either
a
spanner
or
wrench,
loosen
the
grey
cap

11. After
the
threads
have
been
disengaged,
pull
the
assembly
out,
and
set
it
aside

12. You
can
now
see
the
IFP
(Internal
Floating
Piston)
and
the
bleed
screw
in
the
middle

13. Use
a
measuring
device
and
measure
the
depth
of
the
IFP,
The
depth
will
be
different
for
different
stroke

lengths
and
eye
to
eye
measurements


STEP
3:
Removing
the
IFP

14. Depress
the
shaft
all
the
way
down

15. Remove
the
bleed
screw
from
the
centre
of
the
IFP
with
a
hex
key

16. Pull
the
bleed
screw
out,
and
set
it
aside
in
a
safe
place

17. Using
long
needle
nosed
pliers,
pull
the
IFP
out
of
the
Piggyback
Chamber

18. Remove
the
IFP

19. Place
the
IFP
aside,
and
pull
the
shaft
out
to
full
extension


STEP
4:
Removing
the
Shaft
assembly

20. Wrap
an
old
tube
around
the
shaft,
this
will
prevent
damage
to
the
shaft
should
you
slip
with
the
spanner

21. Using
a
spanner
or
wrench,
undo
the
shaft
cap,
it
may
be
tight,
keep
applying
even
pressure
and
it
will

undo

22. After
its
loosened,
use
your
hand
to
unthread
the
shaft

23. Pull
the
shaft
and
piston
assembly
out
of
the
shock
body

24. Set
the
shaft
assembly
aside

25. Drain
the
oil
from
the
Piggyback
and
main
chamber
into
an
oil
pan,
wipe
the
body
with
a
clean
cloth
and

set
the
body
aside


STEP
5:
Removing
Piston
and
Seal
Housing
Assembly

26. Clamp
the
shaft
eyelet
reducers
in
a
soft
jaw
vice,
or
use
blocks
of
wood
as
shown
in
the
first
picture,
this

will
prevent
damage
to
the
reducers

27. Use
a
small
spanner
and
undo
the
black
piston
bolt

28. Remove
the
piston
and
shim
assembly,
be
careful
not
to
lose
or
muck
up
the
shim
stack

29. Lift
off
the
black
seal
housing,
being
careful
not
to
knock
the
rebound
needle
in
the
centre
of
the
shaft

30. Place
the
seal
housing
on
your
work
bench,
be
careful
not
to
scratch
the
orange
bushing

31. You
can
now
access
the
yellow
dust
seal
and
black
main
shaft
o-‐ring
between
the
yellow
dust
wiper
and

orange
bushing

32. If
you
shock
has
had
sufficient
use
there
will
probably
be
dirt
and
crud
in
the
yellow
dust
seal,
wipe
it

clean


STEP
6:
Removing
Shaft
O-‐ring,
IFP
O-‐ring
and
Housing
O-‐Ring

33. Using
a
pin
or
dental
pick,
stab
the
black
o-‐ring
and
pry
it
out,
being
careful
not
to
scratch
the
yellow
dust

seal
or
orange
bushing

34. Label
the
o-‐ring
so
you
know
which
one
it
is
and
set
it
aside
for
now

35. Using
you
pick,
remove
the
housing
o-‐ring

36. Label
the
housing
o-‐ring,
and
put
it
aside

37. Using
your
pick,
remove
the
IFP
o-‐ring

38. Label
the
IFP
o-‐ring
and
set
it
aside


STEP
7:
Removing
Bottom
Out
assembly
o-‐rings
and
cleaning
shock
internals

39. Using
your
pick,
remove
the
bottom
out
plunger
o-‐ring,
label
and
set
aside
the
o-‐ring

40. Using
your
pick,
remove
the
Bottom
out
housing
o-‐ring,
label
and
set
aside
the
o-‐ring

41. The
Bottom
out
assembly
with
its
o-‐rings

42. Using
a
clean
cloth,
wipe
out
the
main
shaft
chamber

43. Using
a
clean
cloth,
wipe
out
the
piggyback
chamber

44. You
have
now
disassembled
you
shock.
Take
the
o-‐rings
to
a
local
supplier
and
have
them
sized
up
and

replaced,
I
recommend
getting
a
quantity
of
each,
labelling
them
and
putting
them
in
a
container
for

next
time,
it’s
always
good
to
have
a
supply
of
them


STEP
8:
Replacing
main
shaft
o-‐ring
and
shaft
housing
o-‐ring

45. Take
your
new
main
shaft
o-‐ring,
apply
a
few
drops
of
suspension
oil
to
it
and
pinch
as
shown

46. Insert
the
pinched
o-‐ring
into
shaft
housing
as
shown

47. Place
your
pinkie
in
opposite
end
as
shown

48. Using
you
other
pinkie,
squash
the
o-‐ring
into
the
housing
and
use
your
fingers
to
set
the
o-‐ring
in
its

housing,
this
can
be
tricky,
take
your
time
and
it
will
go
in

49. Take
you
new
shaft
housing
seal,
and
place
a
few
drops
of
suspension
oil
onto
it

50. Insert
it
back
onto
housing


Step
9:
Rebound
Disassembly/Reassembly

51. Shaft
with
piston
removed.
Drill
a
11mm
hole
into
small
block
of
hardwood,
then
cut
in
half

52. Insert
shaft
into
clamps
as
shown,
tighten
clamps
in
vice

53. Using
propane
torch,
GENTLY
heat
eyelet/shaft
junction
until
hot
to
touch

54. Insert
breaker
bar
into
eyelet,
then
unscrew
eyelet
from
shaft,
if
shaft
spins,
ensure
clamp
is
tight
and
that

eyelet
is
hot

55. When
eyelet
unscrews
from
shaft
threads,
rebound
needle
and
the
small
o-‐ring
will
be
exposed

56. Using
a
brush,
ensure
all
loctite
is
removed
from
the
shaft
threads


57. Press
rebound
needle
out
of
shaft,
replace
small
o-‐ring
at
threaded
end
of
shaft

58. The
rebound
system
has
been
fully
disassembled

59. Clean
all
remaining
loctite
from
eyelet
threads
with
a
brush

60. Unscrew
rebound
adjust
from
eyelet,
being
careful
not
to
loose
the
detent
ball
or
spring

61. Clean
both
adjuster
and
insides
of
the
eyelet,
regrease
both,
then
reinsert
the
adjuster
in
eyelet

62. Clean
and
lightly
grease
rebound
needle,
then
reinsert
into
the
shaft,
ensure
that
the
small
o-‐ring
at

threaded
end
has
properly
engaged
over
the
needle
and
that
it
is
sitting
flush
in
its
small
shaft
recess


63. Reinsert
the
shaft
into
the
clamps,
place
a
small
amount
of
loctite
on
threads,
ensure
loctite
does
not
spill

into
rebound
needle
or
on
shaft
surface

64. Reinstall
the
eyelet
onto
the
shaft,
hand
tighten,
the
ensure
clamps
are
tight

65. Using
breaker
bar,
retighten
the
eyelet,
the
clamps
will
needed
to
be
significantly
tight
to
ensure
that

eyelet
tightens
properly

66. Remove
shaft
from
the
clamps
and
clamp
the
eyelets
into
the
vice.
Using
a
small
Allen
key,
gently
push

down
on
the
rebound
needle
so
that
it
engages
the
adjuster

67. Using
a
syringe,
inject
suspension
oil
down
into
the
rebound
assembly
to
purge
air,
cover
the
rebound

hole
if
needed.
The
rebound
assembly
is
now
rebuilt.


Step
10:
Propedal
Disassembly/
Reassembly

(Many
thanks
to
Enemy1
for
Pics
and
instructions)

68. To
Access
Propedal
Spring
and
plate
o-‐ring,
with
shock
clamped
upright
in
vice,
remove
the
snap
ring

using
long
nose
circlip
pliers

69. Replace
o-‐ring,
then
reinstall
spring
back
in
reservoir,
along
with
Propedal
base
plate,
then
reinstall
circlip,

insuring
the
it
is
properly
seated
in
the
recess.
(Second
Picture
shows
reservoir
with
Propedal

assembly
removed

70. Unscrew
black
bottom
out
plunger
from
grey
housing

71. Remove
and
replace
o-‐ring,
then
reinstall
black
bottom
out
plunger
in
grey
housing


STEP
11:
Replacing
IFP
and
Bottom
Out
assembly
o-‐rings,
reassembling
shaft
assembly

72. Place
a
few
drops
of
suspension
fluid
on
a
new
IFP
o-‐ring,
and
place
it
back
on
the
IFP
(In
picture,
new
o-‐
ring
in
place
on
IFP,
old
one
next
to
IFP)

73. Place
a
few
drops
of
suspension
fluid
on
new
bottom
out
housing
and
adjuster
o-‐rings,
then
place
them

back
on
the
assembly
(the
position
of
the
old
o-‐rings
on
the
table
is
respective
of
where
they
go
on

the
BO
assembly)

74. Wipe
some
suspension
fluid
on
shaft,
and
replace
rubber
bottom
out
bumper

75. Reinsert
the
shaft
seal
housing
back
onto
the
shaft,
be
careful
to
put
it
on
straight,
take
your
time,
DO

NOT
FORCE
IT,
otherwise
damage
to
the
shaft
or
bushing
may
result

76. Replace
the
piston/shim
assembly,
and
retighten.
Just
snug
it
tight,
if
you
over
tighten
it
too
much,
you

may
crush
the
shims
and
prevent
them
flexing

77. After
you
have
retightened
the
piston,
pull
the
shaft
housing
all
the
way
up.
Coat
Piston
and
shim
stack
in

oil,
as
to
minimize
air
in
shim,
piston
assembly.
You
have
now
successfully
rebuild
the
shaft
assembly


STEP
12:
Refilling
oil
and
reinstalling
shaft
assembly

78. Refill
the
main
chamber
with
oil

79. Let
it
filter
into
piggyback
chamber
and
keep
filling
until
piggyback
chamber
is
almost
overflowing

80. Place
the
IFP
into
the
chamber,
press
it
so
it
just
sits
on
the
top
of
the
threads
(ensure
bleed
screw
is
in)

81. Fill
main
chamber
with
suspension
oil
until
it
is
almost
overflowing

82. While
holding
IFP
in
place,
reinsert
the
piston
into
the
chamber
and
thread
the
seal
housing
on,
hand

tighten
it
at
this
stage

83. Remove
IFP
bleed
screw


STEP
13:
Reinserting
IFP
and
reinstalling
Bottom
Out
assembly

84. Depress
IFP
past
threads,
ensure
bleed
screw
is
removed,
and
wear
safety
glasses,
as
oil
will
squirt

through
bleed
hole

85. Using
you
measuring
tool,
push
IFP
to
its
correct
depth.
If
you
did
not
record
your
IFP
depth,
use
the

depth
chart
at
the
end
of
this
document.
Tap
body
to
displace
any
trapped
air
as
your
pushing
the
IFP

in,
this
will
ensure
a
good
bleed

86. Reinstall
bleed
screw,
drain
and
wipe
excess
oil
from
IFP
chamber

87. Using
spanner
or
wrenches,
retighten
the
shaft
housing.
Its
recommended
that
you
use
the
old
tube
to

protect
the
shaft

88. Reinsert
the
bottom
out
assembly

89. Using
a
spanner
or
wrench,
tighten
the
grey
cap


STEP
14:
Final
Reassembly

90. Reinstall
the
Bottom
Out
adjuster
cap

91. Tighten
the
2
grub
screws

92. Reinflate
the
boost
valve
to
a
minimum
of
125PSI

93. Clean
the
shock
over
with
Isopropyl
Alcohol
or
a
wet
cloth

94. Reinstall
spring,
any
reducers
and
valve
cap
(and
in
my
case,
my
shock
boot)

95. Reinstall
the
shock
back
onto
your
bike

96.
Do
the
bounce
test
on
your
bike
to
lube
internal
parts,
then
set
adjustments
to
you
settings,
bounce

check
again
to
make
sure
everything
is
working
correctly

97. Success
=
BEER!



IFP
Depth
Chart:

EYE
to
EYE
–
Stroke

Metric;

190mm,
50mm
=
32mm

200mm,
50mm
=
32mm

200mm,
57mm
=
33mm

215mm,
64mm
=
34mm

222mm,
64mm
=
34mm

241mm,
76mm
=
38mm

Imperial;

7.500,
2.00
=
1.25

7.875,
2.00
=
1.25

7.875,
2.25
=
1.30

8.500,
2.50
=
1.35

8.750,
2.50
=
1.35

9.500,
3.00
=
1.48

Thanks
to
EmanResu
on
MTBR
for
finding
the
IFP
chart

Thanks
to
Enemy1
for
Propedal
instructions


Acknowledgements

Big
thanks
to
the
people
who
contributed
their
valuable
knowledge
to
help
me
compile
this
guide,
id
name
you

individually,
but
you
know
who
you
are!

Info
obtained
from
people
on:

-‐ MTBR

-‐ Pinkbike

-‐ ROTORBURN
AUSTRALIA
(formally
FARKIN)

-‐ Ride
Monkey

th
Compiled
By
me,
Nick_M2R
on
18
May
2009

th
Updated:
28
January
2010

While
I
have
proof
read
this
guide
carefully,
but
I’m
only
human.
If
you
have
notice
any
mistakes
or
have
any

improvements,
PM
me
on
MTBR
and
ill
include
them
in
future
releases.

Enjoy
Guys
and
Girls!

Version:
4


Version 4 dhx service guide

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