photoshop construction

I began by opening the image that I wanted to
edit by clicking “File” and then choosing the
option “Open”

I then unlocked the layer, I made sure that I did this as the
background cannot be moved unless it is redefined as a layer, it
also allows me to begin editing and making any further changes
to the image without any access white background.

To begin with....

To delete the excess background I began by going Trial and Error –
around the main shape of the model using a tool Deleting the
called “Magnetic Lasso Tool”. Background in one go.
I then tried erasing the outside of the selected
area however it would not erase as only the
selected area was the only bit you could do
anything to which in this case was erasing.

I made the eraser larger to decrease the time it would take me to rub the entire background.

Once I finished I pressed delete however I found that the image deleted and not the
background, I had discovered that the section that is selected is the section that is removed
and not the image around it so I had to undo the damage and start again.

Finally....

After deleting the
background I was left
I realised that if I used the “Magnetic with simply the
Lasso Tool" and went around the selected area of the
background first and then went image I originally
around the actual shape I wanted anticipated for .
then the unwanted background Overall I found that this
would simply be removed if I technique was quick however
pressed delete. not so efficient however the
extra job was not all that
After I finished I was left with a difficult to complete therefore I
dotted out line around both the found that this technique was
outside of the background and the “most ideal” for me as it
the specific area of the image I
wanted. However was something I could do quite
after doing this and looking closely easily.
at the image I had found that some
of the small areas
around the legs and shoes were left out, so even though the
technique I used was quicker it left me with an extra job to
do.

I then erased the outside of the image as for some
odd reason the “Magnetic Lasso Tool” did not pick
up the entire background of the image, so I then
zoomed into the image in several different places
and erased the left over background.

I also erased a lot of excess background
around the hair which was the hardest as the
Magnetic Lasso Tool did not pick up all of the
background so I had to zoom in and erase
these separately to ensure that my magazine
looked professional and well edited along with
the crucial fact that the hair should look
realistic and natural.

I then went around the whole image blurring the outline of the
whole image using the “Blur Tool”, I did this to ensure that my
image looked neater and more professional, I also did this as
after blurring the image had a sort of glow like effect to it and I
found that it added to the attraction and “catchiness” of the
image so I chose to proceed and do this to all my images.

However one
disadvantage of using
the smudge tool was
that sometimes it
smudged a little too
much and I found that it
distorted the image
slightly, luckily I was
able to fix this by simply
undoing the damage.

The after effect of smudging the imag
The after effect of smudging the image. The after effect of smudging the image. The after effect of smudging the ima

I adjusted the image
by clicking on “Image”
and clicked on
“Adjustments” seeing
as though I wanted to
adjust the brightness
and contrast
therefore I then did
this by choosing the
option that did this.

By increasing the brightness I though it
would also improve the audiences feelings
towards it as this is usually associated with
positive emotions – making it more
appealing to my target audience.

I adjusted the
brightness to “8”
and the contrast
to “100” as I
wanted it bright
but not to artificial
looking.

I then adjusted the brightness and contrast of the image as I thought that it would make the image slightly more
pleasing to the eye, I also did this as it made the image clearer and easier to work with.
I set the brightness to 8 and the contrast 100, I did this as it gave the model a more “oranger” skin colour and I
thought that it looked as though the model had a tan, by applying this I felt that my target audiences which
consists mainly of teenagers aged between 12 and 18 years could relate to this as “having a tan” is thought to
be “fashionable”.

3
1 2 By feathering the
image it gives the
To begin my process of image a more
feathering I began by going attractive look, the
around the entire image I then selected “Modify” as
this was where the “Feather” image looks more
using the “Magnetic Lasso appealing and eye
Tool” after doing this I clicked option was. After selecting
this option it was simply up catching, it also
on “Select” and inversed the adds a glow to the
image as I did not want any to me to what extent I
wanted to feather the actual image adding to
outside bits of the image and the attraction of
I wanted it to have an even image.
the whole image.
finish.

[Process of Feathering]

[Finding the correct Feather Radius] After discovering that the
previous number was too
small and not very effective I
I began by choosing a small decided to increase the
number to feather as I was number however still
unsure of the actual effect it keeping to the small
would have on the image as differences as I wanted to
it was a effect that I had observe the effect each
never used before so I had, this time I decided to
began with a small number increase slightly and set it to
which was “5” however after “10” however like the
doing this I found that the previous time this was also
effect was very little and it too small and had very little
did not look very appealing effect on the image.
nor eye catching.

I then decided to set the
image to “15” as the last
two times were Finally I found the correct
unsuccessful in fulfilling the feather that gave my image
look and effect I wanted that outstanding and
from the image, however effected glow I intended, I
after doing so I found that found that the effect was
the image was eye catching eye catching and different, I
however I wanted it to have set the feather to “20” and I
a slightly larger outer glow found that this worked the
so i decided to increase the best out of the previous
number slightly. three.

When I began my process of feathering I had a very clear image in my mind of how exactly I wanted my image to
look and what effect I wanted it to have on my audience and how it would adapt and work well with the concept
and look behind my magazine. I wanted the image to look realistic as well as it having a unique and eye catching
look to it, something that wouldn't regularly would not be seen in a normal magazine on the market at the moment.
[ T r i a l a n d E r r o r ]

I then cut around the area I wanted using the
“Rectangular Marquee Tool” and then decided to
crop the image as the area I wanted was only small
in comparison to the background so I felt if I cropped
the image it would look tidier and neater.

I then saved the image as a JPEG as I
was told that once I decided to transfer
the image onto Adobe InDesign the
image would look more professional and
less “pixalated” and “fuzzy” after hearing
this I made sure that once I had finished I
definitely saved the image as this format
as I wanted to give my magazine the
most professional and clean look I
possibly could.

Central Image –
Double Page Spread

I began by opening the image I wanted to edit -

1

2

3

I then began by drawing a simple box around the area of the image I did not want, I did this using the
“Rectangular Marquee Tool”, I chose not to use the whole image as I found that there was not enough
focus on the face and this factor was something my teacher made sure she emphasised when she was
telling us the criteria for the magazine as she highlighted on the fact that this was something that would
help me gain some extra brownie points along with the fact that in real music magazines the focus of
the models is compulsory as the face should be clearly visible as this is something that attracts the
audience in to buying the magazine even more as it creates a sort of connection between the audience
and the model as they are making eye contact and it also makes the audience feel more involved with
the model as there is clear eye contact, so I wanted to cut the bottom bit of the image and then zoom in
on the image and use that instead as I found that it was more visible to audiences that the model was
retaining eye contact as this was a compulsory thing I wanted as it made the audiences feel as though
they were on a personal level with the model in the image and they could relate to the model so I
ensured that it was clear that the model retained eye contact and to do this I had to zoom in on the
chosen image.

I then created a new document, however not as a clipboard but as
international paper as I wanted the size of the new document to be A4
ready for me to place the cut out image on.
I then dragged the cut out
image onto the
document, unlocked the layer
and then enlarged the image
so it fit the whole A4
document.

After unlocking the layer I
deleted the white layer as I
did not need it.

I then applied the image so
it came out a better quality
and not so “blurry" and
“pixalated”.

I then used the “Magnetic Lasso Tool” to cut
around the image, I chose to use this tool
instead of the “Polygonal Lasso Tool” as it
was easier as it went round the image
without me having to click anything.

I then erased any excess left over
background that I might have missed out
After cutting around the whole image I then stopped and earlier, I did this using the “Eraser Tool”.
went round the outside finally finishing where I started, I did I made sure I did not leave any access
this as I wanted to remove the background not the back ground out as I did not want to
image, after this I then deleted the excess background only make the image look unprofessional in
leaving the image I wanted. any way .

1st I began by using the “Blur Tool" however once I began using I found that it was taking extremely long for one
individual spot to become “invisible” and it also left a weird “spiral like” pattern on the area I blurred so I decided
this tool was not the right tool to use and set out on a quest to find a different tool that would be more effective.

I then tried using the “Clone Stamp Tool" to remove the spots however I found that it left a weird mark
after and I also found great difficulty using this tool as well as I found that sometimes to me personally it
would “stop working” I found this tool extremely hard to use and I found it almost impossible to hide one
spot let alone several.

After the previous technique also failing I then decided to start playing with all the tools, after a while a
found a tool called “Healing Brush Tool” that I thought would maybe work, however after using it I found
that it also left marks and I found that it some what distorted the image too so I decided to undo the
“damage” and try a different technique.

I finally found a tool that I thought would do just the trick, above the previous tool I tried was another tool
called “Spot Healing Brush Tool”, I decided to try this tool as all my previous techniques were a fail I
thought to myself what else have I got to loose, however much to my dismay I found that this tool worked
incredibly well as it removed the spots very well and only left a slight mark however I could then remove
this after using the “Blur Tool” however other than that I found that this was the perfect tool to use as it
was easy and effective., I found that even after using it the image still looked realistic and professional.

1 2 3

When I first began my “journey” to removing the blemishes of the models face, I had no idea about what
exact tools on Photoshop I would need to remove them, so I decided to experiment a little and try a
variety of different tools in order to remove them however ensuring the image looked as realistic and “non
– fake” as possible.

After fixing the spots and odd “unwanted” blemishes I wanted to ensure that the models face was clear
of any blemishes even the tiniest area as I am a proud perfectionist so I resorted to zooming closely
into the image and smudging the outline of the image to give the image a more perfect and appealing
finish, I did this also as it gives the image a more professional look as the edges are more smoother and
slightly blurred, this gives the image a more eye catching and appealing look as it makes the image
stand out even more. When editing the image I used the “Smudge Tool" as I felt it was the easiest tool
to use as well as also being affective .

1 2

I used a relatively large
sized brush to smudge
the outside of my
image, this was simply 5
to save time as I was
able to smudge a large
area of space in one
go instead of having to 4
go around it in a
smaller brush and it
taking twice as longer.
3

After adjusting the image to black and white I found that the
image was I little to dark and it was very hard to even make
out the face of the model. I adjusted the image by clicking on
“image” and then clicking on “adjustments” and I then clicked
on black and white.

As I found that the image was far too dark I
decided to adjust the brightness and contrast of
the image as I thought that if I brightened the
image it would then make it look more appealing
and the models face would be slightly more clearer
and visible.

I then saved the Photoshop
document as a “JPEG” image
to ensure it was easy to place
on the InDesign document.

photoshop construction

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