2. The Mystique
๏จ How we got spanked on Evolution Traverse (Shay of
pullharder.org, 2007)
๏จ โ16 hours car-to-car; 22 miles; peaks reached: 0/9โ
(Warren C and Dave J, 2009)
๏จ โCycling through 3 partners over 3 attemptsโฆโ (Ryan
H in reference to Josh G, 2011)
๏จ โThe best traverse I have done.โ (Peter Croft in The
Good, The Great and the Awesome; FA on attempt #3)
๏จ 17 documented successful ascents prior to my 2011
attempt (all by men)
3. The Route
โข 5.9, VI
โข 10 mile approach over
Lamark Col (3,600 ft of
gain and 1,600 ft of
descent)
โข 8 mile ridge traverse
over nine 13K ft peaks
โข ~16 mile hike out
4. The Route
โข 5.9, VI
Thunderbolt to Sill
โข 10 mile approach over (5.9, IV)
Lamark Col (3,600 ft of
โข 10 mile approach
gain and 1,600 ft of with 5,200 ft of gain
descent) (Glacier Lodge
โข 8 mile ridge traverse start/end)
over nine 13K ft peaks โข ~1.6 mile ridge
traverse over five 14K
โข ~16 mile hike out
ft peaks
โข ~9 mile hike out
5. My Background
๏จ Climbing
๏ค Been climbing on/off since the mid-90s
๏ค Since ~2006 increased focus on trad/alpine climbing
๏ค Comfortable leading 5.10 trad
๏ค Enjoy exposure, soloing, and mega days
๏จ Work
๏ค Have a full-time job at a local search company in
Glendale, but fortunate to work remotely
6. The Prep
๏จ First (half-assed) attempt in Sep 2010
๏ค Base camp support from Jascha
๏ค Bailed before the Mendel summit due to (chronic) hip
flexor issues
๏จ Major focus on the Aug 2011 attempt
๏ค Made the decision to do the traverse alone and
unsupported
๏ค Ton of climbing (trad, sport, bouldering, alpine soloing)
with a focus on alpine speed and endurance
๏ค Planning & logistics (balancing weight and comfort/safety)
๏ค PT
7. The Prep
๏จ Surprisingly early start to
the alpine season given
the winterโs record
snowfall
N Ridge of Lone Pine Peak (5.5), 30 May
8. The Prep
๏จ Spent much time on Temple Crag
to avoid sloggy conditions
Moon Goddess Arete (5.8)
9. The Prep
Sun Ribbon (5.10a) | Galey | Sill traverse
10. The Prep
๏จ Last minute Evolution
crux recon and bivy
gear stash 1.5 weeks
prior
36. Tips
๏จ Go as light as you can taking into consideration your limits and
conditions.
๏จ Be efficient at route-finding, moving quickly unroped over 4th and
easy 5th class terrain, and rope/gear management if you plan to
use them.
๏จ Consider your water options (snow melt versus dropping down
500โ to Haeckel Col).
๏จ Acclimate. A full day at the Darwin Benches helps significantly
especially if you are a flatlander.
๏จ Note to self: Have your food plan perfected and make sure your
camera is fully functional.
๏จ Have fun. Itโs an amazing climb no matter how far you get.
37. Whatโs Next?
I donโt know where Iโm going from here, but I
promise it wonโt be boring.
- David Bowie
38. Whatโs Next?
I donโt know where Iโm going from here, but I
promise it wonโt be boring.
- David Bowie
40. Gear List
๏จ 80โ of 7mm Mammut Pro Cord โ did 1 pack haul, 1 pack lower and 1 rap
๏จ 3 nuts (sm, med, lg) โ didnโt use
๏จ ATC guide / locker
๏จ Camp XLH 95 harness
๏จ 40โ 9/16โ tubular webbing โ way too much
๏จ Lightest pair of climbing shoes I could find at the Gear Exchange
๏จ Western Mountaineering VersaLite (10 degree bag)
๏จ 2L MSR Dromedary bag (for melting snow) + 100 oz hydration bladder
๏จ Black Diamond Speed 40 pack
๏จ Montrail CTC approach shoes
๏จ Camp Corsa ice axe (left this at Lamark Col on the hike in)
๏จ Cheap closed cell foam pad cut down to ยฝ length and minimal width*
๏จ Rab Storm Bivi* * Cached on recon
41. More Eye Candy | TRs
๏จ Josh Garrisonโs video covering 3 attempts:
http://vimeo.com/15555114
๏จ Patituccisโ blog:
http://dolomitesport.com/2009/12/climbing-the-
sierra-nevadas-evolution-traverse/
๏จ Alan Cattabrigaโs TR: http://neice.com/2010/09/the-
evolution-traverse/
๏จ My TR: http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Evolution-
Traverse-How-I-Owe-it-All-to-an-
Apple/t11143n.html
42. Many Thanks To
the following people for beta, encouragement, company on
recons/training climbs, and tolerating my obsessive
ramblings:
Alan C, Vic L, Peter C, Mike C, Ben H, Jason L, Ian C-B, Tricia L, Matt S,
Tai D, Em H, Todd T, Joe L, Lisa R, Wills Y, Jascha L, Joan P, Miguel F,
Sandra S, Janel C, Jessie M, Yoshiko and Jim M, Nathan W, Laura M
and especially Emma