First chick ascent of the Evolution Traverse (5.9, VI). Presentation given to CU Boulder Alpine Club and at Neptune Mountaineering; includes an overview of High Sierra climbing.
2. The High Sierra
Mt Humphreys, Basin Mt, and Mt Tom from the Buttermilks
3. The Area
Sierra Nevada Range
• ~400 mi in length
• Predominately granite
• Most stable weather in
Aug-Sep, t-storms in Jun-Jul
but not as regular as the
Rockies
• High concentration of
quality alpine routes
between Bridgeport and
Lone Pine (~150 mi)
Map from UC Davis’ Information Center for the Environment
4. Red Dihedral on the Hulk
The Area | Bridgeport (5.10b, 12 pitches)
Incredible Hulk
photo by Luke Stefurak
5. The Area | Yosemite (Tuolumne)
N Ridge of Mt Conness (5.6)
Third Pillar of Mt Dana
6. The Area | Rock Creek/Pine Creek
N Buttress on Merriam Peak (5.10, 10 pitches)
Bear Creek Spire
photo by Jed Porter
7. N Buttress on Mt Goode (5.9,
The Area | Bishop pitches)
W Face on Cardinal Pinnacle (5.10a,
4 pitches)
12. The Mystique
How we got spanked on Evolution Traverse (Shay of
pullharder.org, 2007)
“16 hours car-to-car; 22 miles; peaks reached: 0/9”
(Warren C and Dave J, 2009)
“Cycling through 3 partners over 3 attempts…” (Ryan
H in reference to Josh G, 2011)
“The best traverse I have done.” (Peter Croft in The
Good, The Great and the Awesome; FA on attempt #3)
17 documented successful ascents prior to my 2011
attempt (all by men)
13. The Route
5.6
5.8
• 5.9, VI
5.9
• 10 mile approach over
Lamark Col (3,600 ft of
gain and 1,600 ft of
descent)
• 8 mile ridge traverse
over nine 13K ft peaks
• ~16 mile hike out
5.7
14. The Route | History
1966
Gordon Waddell does Spencer to Huxley.
July 1997
Peter Croft and Galen Rowell climb Mendel
to Haeckel, with Croft continuing on alone
for the last 4 peaks.
August 1998
Peter Croft and Dayle Mazzerella traverse
from 13,360 to Spencer.
June 1999
Croft returns to complete the full traverse
solo.
Source: Croft’s The Good, The Great, and the Awesome: The Top 40 High Sierra Rock Climbs
15. My Background
Climbing
Been climbing on/off since the mid-90s
Since ~2006 increased focus on trad/alpine climbing
Comfortable leading ≤ 5.10 trad
Enjoy exposure, soloing, and mega days
Work
Work full-time as a data geek for a search company in
Glendale CA, but fortunate to work remotely
16. The Prep
First (half-assed) attempt in Sep 2010
Base camp support from Jascha
Bailed before the Mendel summit due to (chronic) hip
flexor issues
Major focus on the Aug 2011 attempt
Made the decision to do the traverse alone and
unsupported
Ton of climbing (trad, sport, bouldering, alpine soloing)
with a focus on alpine speed and endurance
Planning & logistics (balancing weight and comfort/safety)
PT
17. The Prep
2011 conditions
and my dismal
ability to
forecast snow
levels
Raw data from skiiinfo.com Data from skiinfo.com
(in cm)
18. The Prep
Surprisingly early start to
the alpine season given
the winter’s record
snowfall
N Ridge of Lone Pine Peak (5.5), 30 May
19. The Prep
Spent much time on Temple Crag
to avoid sloggy conditions
Moon Goddess Arete (5.8)
20. The Prep
Sun Ribbon (5.10a) | Galey | Sill traverse
21. The Prep
Last minute Evolution
crux recon and bivy
gear stash 1.5 weeks
prior
54. Tips
Go as light as you can taking into consideration your limits and
conditions.
Be efficient at route-finding, moving quickly unroped over 4th and
easy 5th class terrain, and rope/gear management if you plan to
use them.
Consider your water options (snow melt versus dropping down
500’ to Haeckel Col).
Acclimate. A full day at the Darwin Benches helps significantly
especially if you are a flatlander.
Note to self: Have your food plan perfected and make sure your
camera is fully functional.
Have fun. It’s an amazing climb no matter how far you get.
55. Questions | Beta
user name fossana
on summitpost and
mountainproject
slides will be
posted on
slideshare.net
(same user name)
56. Gear List
80’ of 7mm Mammut Pro Cord – did 1 pack haul, 1 pack lower and 1 rap
3 nuts (sm, med, lg) – didn’t use
ATC guide / locker
Camp XLH 95 harness
40’ 9/16” tubular webbing – way too much
Lightest pair of climbing shoes I could find at the Gear Exchange
Western Mountaineering VersaLite (10 degree bag)
2L MSR Dromedary bag (for melting snow) + 100 oz hydration bladder
Black Diamond Speed 40 pack
Montrail CTC approach shoes
Camp Corsa ice axe (left this at Lamark Col on the hike in)
Cheap closed cell foam pad cut down to ½ length and minimal width*
Rab Storm Bivi* * Cached on recon
57. More Eye Candy | TRs
Josh Garrison’s video covering 3 attempts:
http://vimeo.com/15555114
Patituccis’ blog:
http://dolomitesport.com/2009/12/climbing-the-
sierra-nevadas-evolution-traverse/
Alan Cattabriga’s TR: http://neice.com/2010/09/the-
evolution-traverse/
My TR: http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Evolution-
Traverse-How-I-Owe-it-All-to-an-
Apple/t11143n.html
58. Many Thanks To
the following people for beta, encouragement, company on
recons/training climbs, and tolerating my obsessive
ramblings:
Alan C, Vic L, Peter C, Mike C, Ben H, Jason L, Ian C-B, Tricia L, Matt S,
Tai D, Em H, Todd T, Joe L, Lisa R, Wills Y, Jascha L, Joan P, Miguel F,
Sandra S, Janel C, Jessie M, Yoshiko and Jim M, Nathan W, Laura M
and especially Emma