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DESIGN THREADS
stitching together the
past, present & future
of design made in
Italy, UK & beyond
Dante Alighieri Society, Loughborough, 27/11/15
Francesco Mazzarella, PhD researcher
index
a bit of myself
what is design?
the “o-shaped” designer
how to design?
once upon a time
contemporary design
where is design going?
service design for textiles
weaving a sustainable future
sustainable
design
graphic
design
social
innovation
industrial
design
erasmus
master
BSc
freelance
thesis
service
design
a bit of myself
PhD
products
venAria, materialmente, 2010
systems
HealthyProteinsVegetables
CATTLE
Algae
Pure water
Rain water
Grain
Alfalfa
Rye
Oat
Barley
Soybean
Cotton seed
Sugar beet pulp
Plumage
Egg shells
Grey water
Grass
Manure
Corn
Manure
VEGETABLE GARDEN
ORCHARD
ROOF GARDEN
BIODIGESTERHYDROPONICS
FISH FARMING
POULTRY
HEN-HOUSE
Worms
Biogas
Apples
Pears
Lentils
Peas
Onions
Potatoes
Lettuce
Fish
Milk
Eggs
Chicken meat
Grey water
Fertilizer
Agricultural
waste
Seeds
CORN FIELD
Fish
9.000 kg/year
Lettuce
273.000 kg/year
Onions
267.540 kg/year
Potatoes
382.200 kg/year
484.000 eggs/year
Eggs
425.000 l/year
Milk
221.130 kg/year
Pears
515.970 kg/year
Apples
81.000 kg/year
Chicken meat
23.400 kg/year
Peas
11.700 kg/year
Lentils
Healthy
Diet
FruitsWholeGrains
space: 20 ha ; 7.924 trees
space: 117.32 ha
Floating system ; space: 5,46 ha
Lake Spaarbekkens Drinkwaterleiding
300.000 m3 ; 3000 tenchs bred
50 cow Holstein
space shelter: 675 m2
space outdoor: 9.000 m2
30.000 chicken Barnevelder
total space: 3,5 ha
(shelter 5.000 m2
outdoor 60.000 m2)
2.200 hens Barnevelder
total space: 2,57 ha
(shelter 367 m2
outdoor 4.400 m2)
space: 39,5 ha
Continuously Stirred Tank Reactor
2.000 tons/year processed
Urine
EXTERNAL
SUPPLIER
systemic farm, university of twente, 2011
graphics
cuore politecnico,
politecnico di torino,
2012
www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=afUmaGAouzI
events half full,
turin-barcelona, 2012
planet.globalservicejam.org/gsj14/jamsite/10708/project/11248
services toy2toy,
budapest service jam, 2014
photography
http://issuu.com/francescomazzarella/docs/f.mazzarella_msc_thesis_ecodesign_d
research MSc thesis in ecodesign,
politecnico di torino, 2013
MICRO-ENTERPRICE
diffuse
INDUSTRIAL CRAFT
DOITYOURSELF
experimentation
service PUBLIC system CROWDsourcing
PARTICIPATORY
design
natural
no-tech
reuse
vernacular
tradition
MULTICULTURALITY
MATERIALS
LOCAL IDENTITY
sustainabilitycommunity
SOCIAL innovation
crafts
BRAZILITALY
NETHERLANDS
SYSTEMICdesign
SELF-PRODUCTION
digital fabrication
production
communication
design distribution
self
production
mazzarella, 2013
redistributed
manufacturing
crowdfunding
campaigns
analogical &
digital technologies
online
platforms
micro
enterprise
99,4%
0,5%0,1%
68,2%
12,2 %
65%
13 %
MICRO/SMALL
ENTERPRISES
Source: EUROSTAT
19,6 %
22%
micro-entrepreneurship
DESIGN
EXPERIMENTATION
4
DESIGN UNIVERSITIES
710 Bil
GDP
8,5%
UNEMPLOYMENT
DESIGN
SYSTEM
73,2%
NO
INDUSTRY
24,1%
SERVICES
trading, finance
12,2 %
>5
LIVING LABS
digital fabrication
50÷300%
INCREASE IN INCOME
18 BilFROM CRAFTS
64,3%
OF BRAZILIAN MUNICIPALITIES
OWN CRAFT PRODUCTION
GRAPHICFASHION
FURNITURE
GASTRONOMY
85%CRAFTSWOMEN
8,5mln
ARTISANS
PROFESSIONAL REGISTER
artisans’ communities
promotion
design
lab
designer
producer consumer
appliedresearch
education
open
ecosystem
inn
ovation
mazzarella, 2013
what is design?
from the latin “projectus”, a
“project” throws forward its own
vision of the future, implementing
ideas, led by given motivations,
to achieve certain results
design
ciribini, 1984
me
(designer)
the crowd
(audience)
verb
the elite
(engineers)
DESIGN
mattson, 2015
writing
computer
science music making architecture
industrial
design
art
engineering
innovation strategy graphic
design
medicine
mattson, 2015
1
2
3
4
all
design
industries
design specialities
specific design processes specific
broad
mattson, 2015
design is the systematic interplay
between creation and evaluation
for the purpose of achieving specific
design outcomes (evolution through
stages of development)
as caused by specific
design activities
where outcomes and activities
are coordinated to meet
specific conditions
creation / evaluation
integrity
design outcomes
design activitites
design coordination
all
design
industries
design specialities
specific design processes
mattson, 2015
conran, 2015
value = brand design quality
cost
subconscious
WANT
conscious
NEED
emotional rational
expectation
reputation
experience
marketing
market position
integrity / CSR
desirability
perception of fair exchange
price
convenience
guilt
ethics
sustainability
performance
material / finish
integrity
dependability
science
behaviour
function
usability
usefulness
innovation
personality
aesthetics
tactile
trend
scarcity
narrative
function: is it fit for purpose?
fabrication: how easy is it to make?
finance: is it affordable to make and to buy?
fingers: is it ergonomically sound?
feedback: what do people think of it?
fundamental: how does it impact on people’s lives?
feeling: is it emotionally appropriate?
fantasty: does it fulfill dreams?
fame: does it reinforce the brand?
fashion: does it reflect trends?
future: is it environmentally sustainable?
failure: is it evolutionarily better?
fear: does it take risks or is it bland?
faith: does it require commitment to succeed?
frustration: is it the mother f*** of invention?
fun: does it give a smile in the mind? conran, 2015
form follows...
wicked problems
great expectations
new drivers for design
old/new problems in new contexts
“how” and “ what”
problem solving, finding, framing
ways and tools for interacting
from tangible to intangible
researcher
businesses design
public
bodies
facilitator co-creator
entrepreneur
strategist
communicator
designer’s roles
yee et al., 2008
people
as part of the
problem
to be satisfied
people
as part of the
solution
to be empowered
design
for social
innovation
design for social innovation
manzini, 2007
events
resulting from
people’s active
collaboration
empowering
community
to expand people’s capabilities
to satisfy their needs, based on
their personal & network resources,
moved by usefulness, meaning, sociability
co-designing
to build collaboration and trust,
enabling people to express opinions,
give and collect information,
act in the world, and do it together
collaborative services
services
co-designed &
co-produced by
communities
PSS
enabling people
to meet specific
needs
digital platforms as enabling tools
for vertical + horizontal &
information + action collaboration
scaling
enabling ecosystem
disruption comes from looking
sideways from spotting things
that others miss.
design not solution but problems
shayler, 2015
the “o-shaped” designer
brass, 2014
the “o-shaped” designer
broad skill set
specialisation
circular
&
systemic
m
indset
multidisciplinary relations
celaschi, 2008
humanities economics
engineeringarts
design
systemic outputs
humanities
valueform
meaning function
economics
engineeringarts
design
celaschi, 2008
sustainable synergies
humanities
valueform
meaning function
economics
engineeringarts
design
cultural c
onsistency
ga
in
origi
nality
suitablep
rocesses
celaschi, 2008
metadesign areas
humanities
valueform
meaning function
economics
engineeringarts
design
cultural c
onsistency
ga
in
origi
nality
suitablep
rocesses
oppotunitities
needs
celaschi, 2008
hard soft
technologies
resources
places
experiences
interactions
networks
product PSS
design of services
interaction of user & provider
through multiple touchpoints,
seen or unseen by customers
usabledesirable efficient & effective
user-centred co-created
sequencingevidencingholistic
stickdorn & schneider, 2011
how to design?
de giorgi & germak, 2008
“explorer” designer
explorer 3
where to do?
starting from fixed
typologies/functions
concept
concept
concept
explorer 1
how to do?
concept concept
concept
explorer 2
what to do? starting from fixed
materials/technologies
starting from wide scope
design processdiscover
define
design council,
2013
develop
deliver
identify problem/need
define solution space
gather user knowledge
analyse data
synthesize findings
define brief
develop product/service
detail product/service
user tests
launch product/service
ensure user feedback
share insights
discover
define
develop
deliver
user diaries 1
user journey mapping 2
user shadowing 3
service safari 4
5 user personas
6 brainstorming
7 design brief
experience prototyping 8
service blueprint 9
business model canvas 10
11 scenarios
design methods
LUMAS model:
Learning for a
User by a
Methodologically-
Informed
Approach to a
Solution
(checkland
& poulter, 2004)
once upon a time
design’s origins
born in UK (industrial revolution)
spread in europe in half ‘800
& in (northern) italy in half ’900
sharply developed in last 20yrs
founded by henry cole in
england in 1837 to train
designers about applied arts
(morphology, art botany,
geometry, material labs)
1st school of design
positivist
scientism
romantic
biomimicry
cole morris
vs
1st design courses in 90s,
named “artistic design for
industry”, were within the
faculty of architecture, in milan,
turin, florence
in italy
art <design> craft
art craftdesign
proto-designer
josiah wedgwood
(stoke-on-trent, 1730-95)
production of daily crockery
decoration: blue, black basalt
decal, lathe, turntable, pyrometer
early assembly line
design school in naples
“etruria” brand
buyers, showroom, catalog,
home delivery
now incorporated by rosenthal
technological
innovation
michael thonet
(prussia, 1796-1871)
laminated wood
from parquet to cabinet-maker
design by components
joints & modules
export (US)
wood bending patent
gebrüder thonet
synergy with designers
chair nr. 14 (1858)
linear components
assemblable modules
less is more
simplification of joints
low-cost
transport & stock optimisation
sale by catalogue
6 wooden canes
8 screws
2 nuts
seat in viennese straw
1st industrial
designer
christopher dresser
(glasgow, 1834-1904)
art workman
technical designs for production
export UK-Japan
collaboration with tiffany, liberty
clutha glass, kömai, clean cut
cost minimisation
re-edition by alessi (90s)
‘800-’900 innovations
electricity, telephony, aviation...
theory and studies on workplace
prinetti&stucchi (wooden bikes)
caproni (airplanes)
pirelli (rubber wheels)
stigler otis (elevators)
richard ginori (ceramics)
cirio (food conservation)
wiener werkstätte
viennese craft workshop,
founded in 1903 by moser,
hoffmann & waerndorfer:
artistic & artisanal activity
aesthetic
industrialisation
functional
tools
wiener
deutschervs
bauhaus
(weimar/dessau/berlin: 1919-33)
charles edouard jeanneret
(la chaux-de-fonds, 1887-1965)
early furniture design
Esprit Nouveau Pavillon,
Paris, 1925
chasier-standard
anatomical studies
furniture in metal tubing
specialised workforce
8 steel tubular components
open frame (apart from backrest)
welded components
breuer, wassily,
manesmall, 1925-27
le corbusier,
LC1, thonet, 1929
fully industrial production
redundant components
closed frame
external joints (bolts, nuts)
yet another chair...
mass production
technological & social innovations
avant-garde
mart stam,
stuhl W1, 1926
marcel breuer,
cesca, 1928
mies van der rohe,
barcelona, 1929
gabriele mucchi,
S5, 30s
jean prouvé,
grand repos, 1928-30
hans coray,
landi, 1938
gerrit rietveld,
1942
pietro arosio,
mirandolina, 1992
henry bertoia,
wire chair, knoll, 1952
charles eames, DKX wire
side chair, miller, 1950
giancarlo piretti,
plia, castelli, 1968
stiletto studio,
consumer’s rest, 1983
marco zanuso & richard sapper,
lambda, 1959
miss blanche,
vitra, 1988
how high the moon,
vitra, 1986
shiro kuramata
ron arad,
well tempered chair, 1986
marc newson,
lockheed lounge, 1986
electricity & its applications
bulb & household appliances
USA: frigidaire
germany: AEG
italy: marelli, SCAEM, edison italy
frankfurt kitchen, 1925
la casa elettrica, 1930
light design
parablesforlightingininteriordesign
improvement of light sources
electric arc
tungsten filament
carbon filament (incandescent)
neon tube (luminescence)
fortuny,
tripod,
pallucco
mariano fortuny
(granada, 1871-1949)
kata kami
pleated silk dresses
lamp design
mackintosh, glasgow school of art, 1896
1. baldessarri, manikin, “29; 2. chiesa, luminator, fontana art, ”33;
3. castiglioni, luminator, flos, “54; 4. sottsass, callimaco, artemide, ”82;
5. sadler, mite led, foscarini, 2000
paul henningsen
1. PH’s pendulum, tivoli park, 1940
2. kogelen, paulsen, 1957
richard sapper,
tizio, artemide, 1972
michele de lucchi,
tolomeo, artemide, 1982
streamline
(USA, 30s)
economic recovery (new deal)
styling & planned obsolescence
evolved into US’organic design
hudson dreyfuss,
chicago train, 1938
buckminster fuller,
dymaxion car, 30s
raymond loewy,
BMW 507, 1957
recovery design (USA)
telephone
radio broadcasts (RAI)
music industry
cinematography (cinecittà)
enterpreneurship
made in italy (30-50s)
FIAT
(turin, 1899)
dante giacosa,
topolino, 1934
olivetti
(ivrea, 1908)
ottavio luzzati,
studio 42, 1935
figini & pollini,
production plant
corradino d’ascanio,
vespa, piaggio, 1945
torre & pallavicino,
lambretta, innocenti, 1947
italian good design (50s)
compasso d’oro (1954)
ADI (1956)
triennale di milano (VIII, IX, X, XI)
HfG ulm
(ulm: 1953-68)
social and systemic design
formalisation of new disciplines
international staff
functionalism (”cold design”)
braun
founded in 1927 in germany, with
dieter rams leading the design
team, specialised in household
appliances, in metal and plastics,
in black, white, gray
dieter rams
plastic design
flexibility, modulatiry, seriality
braun (mono-color)
brionvega (radio)
pirelli (nastrocord)
kartell (R&D)
arflex (upholstered furtniture)
pop design (popular, colourful)
ceretti, derossi, rosso,
pratone, gufram, 1966
neoliberty
started in 1960 in milan, as a
reaction to functionalism,
rescuing art nouveau’s aesthetics,
but mechanically produced and
using new materials
gregotti, meneghetti, stoppino,
cavour, SIM, 1959
recovery design (italy, 50s)
brands
from crafts to SME
designer & industry
design sectors (everyday life)
serialproduction&massconsumption
artists+product+graphic designers
large distribution (also food)
(dynamic) advertising
gooddesign(economics&humanities)
design stars
orchestrate design & production,
in synergy with enterpreneurs
1. castiglioni, magistretti, munari, ponti, sottsass, zanuso
2. bellini, colombo, de pas-d’urbino-lomazzi, mari, mangiarotti
marco zanuso,
lady, arflex, 1951
gio ponti,
superleggera,
cassina, 1957
castiglioni,
mezzadro,
zanotta, 1957
sapper & zanuso,
seggiola per bambini,
kartell, 1959
castiglioni,
arco, flos,
1962
castiglioni,
parentesi,
flos, 1970
joe colombo,
mini-kitchen,
boffi, 1963
bruno munari,
falkland, danese, 1964
zanuso & sapper,
black, brionvega, 1969
zanuso & sapper,
algol, brionvega, 1964
zanuso & sapper,
grillo, siemens, 1965
zanuso & sapper,
radiolina, brionvega, 1964
vico magistretti,
eclisse, artemide, 1965
ettore sottsass,
valentine, olivetti, 1968
enzo mari,
sedia 1, artek, 1974
radical design
disrupting traditional design,
advocating creativity, freedom,
nomadism, deconstruction...
archizoom, superonda,
poltronova, 1967
gatti, paolini, teodoro,
sacco, zanotta, 1968
de pas, d’urbino, lomazzi,
blow, zanotta, 1968
gaetano pesce,
up, B&B, 1969
de pas, d’urbino, lomazzi,
joe, poltronova, 1971
drocco & mello,
bocca, gufram, 1971
paolo deganello,
AEO, cassina, 1973
exhibition
“italy, the new
domestic
landscape”,
MOMA,
new york, 1972
1. bellini,
kar a sutra
2. colombo,
total furnishing
unit
3. sottsass,
micro-
environment
alchimia (1977-92)
laboratory for expressive
research for large industry
(neo-artisanship), founded in
milan by guerriero, providing
radical designers with workshops
to freely develop working
prototypes, collections, inspired
by fashion, space, banal design
alessandro mendini,
proust, alchimia, 1976
memphis
(1982-87)
founded in milan by sottsass
(with thun, navone, de lucchi...)
embodying post-modernism
sottsass,
carlton,
memphis, ‘81
contemporary design
aldo rossi,
la conica,
alessi, 1982
riccardo dalisi,
caffettiera napoletana,
alessi, 1979
stefano giovannoni,
merdolino, alessi, 1993
gaetano pesce,
feltri, cassina, 1987
miss sissi,
flos, 1991
philippe starck,
juicy salif,
alessi, 1990
jasper morrison,
thninking man’s chair,
cappellini, 1988
tom dixon,
s chair, cappellini, 1991
bouroullec brothers,
cloud, cappellini, 2005
karim rashid,
plomp,
serralunga,
2000
denis santachiara,
santa vase, serralunga, 2001
luisa bocchietto,
vas-one,
serralunga,
2003
martí guixé,
tape, magis, 2004
konstantin grcic,
chair one, magis, 2004
eero aarnio,
trioli, magis, 2005
satyendra pakhale,
puzzle carpet, magis, 2005
el ultimo grito,
summer to spring, magis, 2005
fabio novembre,
him & her,
casamania, 2009
where is design going?
sangiorgi et al. 2014
sangiorgi et al. 2014
meroni, 2014
sustainable design bennett,
coral3, 2014
systemic design systemicdesign.org
ferrec & wakely,
disclosed, 2014service design
interaction design unfold, l'artisan
electronique, 2010
digital fabrication dirk vander kooij,
endless robot, 2010
hacked design paolo ulian,
introverso, 2011
mass customisation beick.nl
open design arduino:
1. botanicall project;
2. hardware:
3. software;
4. community
DIY couche, garcia gonzales
& paslier, ooho!, 2014
formafantasma,
autarchy, 2010artisanal design
arabel rosillo de blas,
lace in place, bedford, 2012art design
traditional design google
cultural institute
ethnographic design heloisa crocco,
topomorfosis, 2011
glocal design
campanas,
vermelha, edra, 1993
local
artisans
e-commerce
strategic design internoitaliano.com
production
on demand
crafts council,
craft manifesto, 2014design policy
social enterprise chiquita banana,
artesania aguas
claras, 2013
paula dib,
mandala, london, 2008social design
grassroot design 1. daniele pario perra,
low cost design, 2010
2. adelia borges,
design da periferia, 2013
olga noronha,
medical jewelery, 2015inclusive design
critical design 1. marcel wanders,
knotted chair, droog, 1996;
2. tejo remi, rag chair,
droog, 1991
gionata gatto,
geomerce, 2015speculative design
service design
for the future
of textile artisans’
communities:
an enabling ecosystem
towards sustainability
& social innovation
research problem
the global crisis is leading to the
end of a linear economy, while
setting the ground for redistributed
microproductions, based on new
ethics of sustainability
the craft discourse is mainly
based on individual making
practices, overlooking their
human and social dimension
it is missing a strategic
agenda, which could create
sustainable interconnections
within this pacthy landscape
to explore how service design
can contribute to encourage
textile artisans’ communities
towards a sustainable future
research aim
research focus
material
by hands
machinery
digital tools
quality
skilled control
personal identity
material culture
local fibres:
vegetable
animal
discarded
artisan
community
small scale
localised
diversified
flexible
tool making
textiles
utilitarian
culturally meaningful
aesthetic
large availability of fibres
high employment
wide applications
rising consumer trends
why?
textile artisans’ communities
are bottom-up, human-centred
aggregations, using local fibres,
managing the process of making
culturally significant apparel,
by hands or through digital tools
service design can facilitate
this holistic process:
1. artisans’ communities
2. collaborative services
3. enabling ecosystem
bridging service design and textile
artisans’ communities through
the codesign of collaborative
services for sustainability
reflect
set a strategic agenda
for encouraging TAC
towards a sustainable
future
1C
preliminarystudy
plan
select TAC
to involve
in co-design
2A 2C
to co-design
collaborative
services for
sustainable
TAC
plan
map textile
artisanal
landscape
1A
plan
plan
interconnections
among TAC
reflect
synthesize service
design process
into a theoretical
framework
3A 3C
evaluation
to outline
an enabling
ecosystem of
sustainable
TAC
act & observe
explore sustainable
future trends
for TAC
co-design
collaborative
services
act & observe
1B
act & observe
outline an
enabling ecosystem
of services
3B2B
PS: TAC: Textile Artisans’ Communities
to develop
theoretical
frameworkfor
sustainable
future for
TAC
mainstudy
reflect
evaluate whereas
service design
has met the
theoretical framework
methodology
encourage sustainable development
trigger creative economies
New York (USA)
rescue craft heritage
Nottingham (UK)
participatory
action
research
Cape Town (South Africa)
to explore the wide scope of application of service design
participatory
action
research
textile artisans’ communities
can contribute to sustainable
development as they...
rescue cultural heritage provide social engagement
boost creative economy enhanceresourcestewardship
weaving a sustainable future
1.new market
models
alternative economies
Openwear, “Collaborative
Collection”, 2010, EU
global economic shifts
grassroots innovations
sharing economy
collaborative consumption
1a.alternative
economies
Patagonia, “Common
Threads”, 2015, USA
2.new business
models
redistributed manufacturing
UKTF, Let’s Make
it Here, 2012, UK
relocalised manufacturing
micro-factories
network of fablabs
changing workforce
2a.redistributed
manufacturing
Repair Café
Alabama Chanin,
Stichting, USA3.new production
models
flexible production
long tail
digital fabrication
mass customisation
on demand
3a.flexible
production
Knyttan, UK
4.new design
processes
circular economy
Ananas Anam, “Piñatex”,
2014, Uk & Spain
open, collaborative, free
communities of practice
collaborations & short chains
cradle to cradle
Neha Lad, “Beauty in the
discarded”, 2014, India4a.circular
economy
5.new product
types
advanced artisanship
Yen Chen Chang,
“Knitted Sensors”, 2014, UK
from fast to slow fashion
long sellers
interactive, complex, immaterial
product-service-system
Timo Rissanen, Zero-Waste
Denim, 2010, USA5a.advanced
artisanship
6.new designer’s
roles
designer entrepreneur
Mary Portas, Headen &
Quarmby, 2013, UK
mass profession of prosumers
multidisciplinary communities
tinkering & self-production
complex designer’s palette
6a.designer
entrepreneur
Wool and the Gang, UK
FireUp, 2103, UK
7.new relationships
enabling ecosystem
top-down vs bottom-up
distributed P2P networks
systemic thinking
strategic agenda
7a.enabling
ecosystem
TED, The TEN,
2014, UK
a sustainable manifesto
for textile artisans’ communities
Shift the focus from aesthetics to ethics, from style to quality meanings;
Ethical labour and rights must be set: less bad is not good;
Textile artisanship stands as a slow reaction to fast fashion;
Textiles are interconnected to their wholeness: materials, processes,
people, places;
Being vs. having, learning from nature and acknowledging the unpredictable;
Manage connectivity within local communities, as collective wisdom and
social act of collaboration;
Design as political agent, embracing diversity as resource, weaving
synergies among different assets;
Scale up open initiatives within peer-to-peer networks at a glocal scale;
Understand the root system and trigger holistic and systemic change,
from micro to macro scales;
Build an enabling ecosystem: complex, adaptive infrastructure supported
by polycentric governance.
thank you!
f.mazzarella@lboro.ac.uk
francesco.mazzarella10
Francesco Mazzarella

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