This talk focuses on the meaning of design, providing an overview of the history of Made in Italy, contemporary design for austerity and opening up cutting-edge design frontiers towards sustainability and social innovation. Beyond Italy, I shared my international experiences, uniting the knots of the design landscape worldwide, to finally zoom into textile artisanship in East Midlands, rescuing local heritage.
1. DESIGN THREADS
stitching together the
past, present & future
of design made in
Italy, UK & beyond
Dante Alighieri Society, Loughborough, 27/11/15
Francesco Mazzarella, PhD researcher
2. index
a bit of myself
what is design?
the “o-shaped” designer
how to design?
once upon a time
contemporary design
where is design going?
service design for textiles
weaving a sustainable future
11. http://issuu.com/francescomazzarella/docs/f.mazzarella_msc_thesis_ecodesign_d
research MSc thesis in ecodesign,
politecnico di torino, 2013
MICRO-ENTERPRICE
diffuse
INDUSTRIAL CRAFT
DOITYOURSELF
experimentation
service PUBLIC system CROWDsourcing
PARTICIPATORY
design
natural
no-tech
reuse
vernacular
tradition
MULTICULTURALITY
MATERIALS
LOCAL IDENTITY
sustainabilitycommunity
SOCIAL innovation
crafts
BRAZILITALY
NETHERLANDS
SYSTEMICdesign
SELF-PRODUCTION
digital fabrication
16. 50÷300%
INCREASE IN INCOME
18 BilFROM CRAFTS
64,3%
OF BRAZILIAN MUNICIPALITIES
OWN CRAFT PRODUCTION
GRAPHICFASHION
FURNITURE
GASTRONOMY
85%CRAFTSWOMEN
8,5mln
ARTISANS
PROFESSIONAL REGISTER
artisans’ communities
19. from the latin “projectus”, a
“project” throws forward its own
vision of the future, implementing
ideas, led by given motivations,
to achieve certain results
design
ciribini, 1984
23. design is the systematic interplay
between creation and evaluation
for the purpose of achieving specific
design outcomes (evolution through
stages of development)
as caused by specific
design activities
where outcomes and activities
are coordinated to meet
specific conditions
creation / evaluation
integrity
design outcomes
design activitites
design coordination
all
design
industries
design specialities
specific design processes
mattson, 2015
24. conran, 2015
value = brand design quality
cost
subconscious
WANT
conscious
NEED
emotional rational
expectation
reputation
experience
marketing
market position
integrity / CSR
desirability
perception of fair exchange
price
convenience
guilt
ethics
sustainability
performance
material / finish
integrity
dependability
science
behaviour
function
usability
usefulness
innovation
personality
aesthetics
tactile
trend
scarcity
narrative
25. function: is it fit for purpose?
fabrication: how easy is it to make?
finance: is it affordable to make and to buy?
fingers: is it ergonomically sound?
feedback: what do people think of it?
fundamental: how does it impact on people’s lives?
feeling: is it emotionally appropriate?
fantasty: does it fulfill dreams?
fame: does it reinforce the brand?
fashion: does it reflect trends?
future: is it environmentally sustainable?
failure: is it evolutionarily better?
fear: does it take risks or is it bland?
faith: does it require commitment to succeed?
frustration: is it the mother f*** of invention?
fun: does it give a smile in the mind? conran, 2015
form follows...
28. new drivers for design
old/new problems in new contexts
“how” and “ what”
problem solving, finding, framing
ways and tools for interacting
from tangible to intangible
30. people
as part of the
problem
to be satisfied
people
as part of the
solution
to be empowered
design
for social
innovation
design for social innovation
manzini, 2007
32. co-designing
to build collaboration and trust,
enabling people to express opinions,
give and collect information,
act in the world, and do it together
collaborative services
services
co-designed &
co-produced by
communities
33. PSS
enabling people
to meet specific
needs
digital platforms as enabling tools
for vertical + horizontal &
information + action collaboration
scaling
enabling ecosystem
34. disruption comes from looking
sideways from spotting things
that others miss.
design not solution but problems
shayler, 2015
45. de giorgi & germak, 2008
“explorer” designer
explorer 3
where to do?
starting from fixed
typologies/functions
concept
concept
concept
explorer 1
how to do?
concept concept
concept
explorer 2
what to do? starting from fixed
materials/technologies
starting from wide scope
47. discover
define
develop
deliver
user diaries 1
user journey mapping 2
user shadowing 3
service safari 4
5 user personas
6 brainstorming
7 design brief
experience prototyping 8
service blueprint 9
business model canvas 10
11 scenarios
design methods
48. LUMAS model:
Learning for a
User by a
Methodologically-
Informed
Approach to a
Solution
(checkland
& poulter, 2004)
50. design’s origins
born in UK (industrial revolution)
spread in europe in half ‘800
& in (northern) italy in half ’900
sharply developed in last 20yrs
51. founded by henry cole in
england in 1837 to train
designers about applied arts
(morphology, art botany,
geometry, material labs)
1st school of design
56. production of daily crockery
decoration: blue, black basalt
decal, lathe, turntable, pyrometer
early assembly line
design school in naples
“etruria” brand
buyers, showroom, catalog,
home delivery
now incorporated by rosenthal
58. laminated wood
from parquet to cabinet-maker
design by components
joints & modules
export (US)
wood bending patent
gebrüder thonet
synergy with designers
59. chair nr. 14 (1858)
linear components
assemblable modules
less is more
simplification of joints
low-cost
transport & stock optimisation
sale by catalogue
62. art workman
technical designs for production
export UK-Japan
collaboration with tiffany, liberty
clutha glass, kömai, clean cut
cost minimisation
re-edition by alessi (90s)
63. ‘800-’900 innovations
electricity, telephony, aviation...
theory and studies on workplace
prinetti&stucchi (wooden bikes)
caproni (airplanes)
pirelli (rubber wheels)
stigler otis (elevators)
richard ginori (ceramics)
cirio (food conservation)
101. italian good design (50s)
compasso d’oro (1954)
ADI (1956)
triennale di milano (VIII, IX, X, XI)
102. HfG ulm
(ulm: 1953-68)
social and systemic design
formalisation of new disciplines
international staff
functionalism (”cold design”)
103. braun
founded in 1927 in germany, with
dieter rams leading the design
team, specialised in household
appliances, in metal and plastics,
in black, white, gray
107. neoliberty
started in 1960 in milan, as a
reaction to functionalism,
rescuing art nouveau’s aesthetics,
but mechanically produced and
using new materials
109. recovery design (italy, 50s)
brands
from crafts to SME
designer & industry
design sectors (everyday life)
serialproduction&massconsumption
artists+product+graphic designers
large distribution (also food)
(dynamic) advertising
gooddesign(economics&humanities)
110. design stars
orchestrate design & production,
in synergy with enterpreneurs
1. castiglioni, magistretti, munari, ponti, sottsass, zanuso
2. bellini, colombo, de pas-d’urbino-lomazzi, mari, mangiarotti
132. alchimia (1977-92)
laboratory for expressive
research for large industry
(neo-artisanship), founded in
milan by guerriero, providing
radical designers with workshops
to freely develop working
prototypes, collections, inspired
by fashion, space, banal design
178. service design
for the future
of textile artisans’
communities:
an enabling ecosystem
towards sustainability
& social innovation
179. research problem
the global crisis is leading to the
end of a linear economy, while
setting the ground for redistributed
microproductions, based on new
ethics of sustainability
180. the craft discourse is mainly
based on individual making
practices, overlooking their
human and social dimension
181. it is missing a strategic
agenda, which could create
sustainable interconnections
within this pacthy landscape
182. to explore how service design
can contribute to encourage
textile artisans’ communities
towards a sustainable future
research aim
183. research focus
material
by hands
machinery
digital tools
quality
skilled control
personal identity
material culture
local fibres:
vegetable
animal
discarded
artisan
community
small scale
localised
diversified
flexible
tool making
185. textile artisans’ communities
are bottom-up, human-centred
aggregations, using local fibres,
managing the process of making
culturally significant apparel,
by hands or through digital tools
186. service design can facilitate
this holistic process:
1. artisans’ communities
2. collaborative services
3. enabling ecosystem
187. bridging service design and textile
artisans’ communities through
the codesign of collaborative
services for sustainability
188. reflect
set a strategic agenda
for encouraging TAC
towards a sustainable
future
1C
preliminarystudy
plan
select TAC
to involve
in co-design
2A 2C
to co-design
collaborative
services for
sustainable
TAC
plan
map textile
artisanal
landscape
1A
plan
plan
interconnections
among TAC
reflect
synthesize service
design process
into a theoretical
framework
3A 3C
evaluation
to outline
an enabling
ecosystem of
sustainable
TAC
act & observe
explore sustainable
future trends
for TAC
co-design
collaborative
services
act & observe
1B
act & observe
outline an
enabling ecosystem
of services
3B2B
PS: TAC: Textile Artisans’ Communities
to develop
theoretical
frameworkfor
sustainable
future for
TAC
mainstudy
reflect
evaluate whereas
service design
has met the
theoretical framework
methodology
189. encourage sustainable development
trigger creative economies
New York (USA)
rescue craft heritage
Nottingham (UK)
participatory
action
research
Cape Town (South Africa)
to explore the wide scope of application of service design
participatory
action
research
190. textile artisans’ communities
can contribute to sustainable
development as they...
rescue cultural heritage provide social engagement
boost creative economy enhanceresourcestewardship
199. open, collaborative, free
communities of practice
collaborations & short chains
cradle to cradle
Neha Lad, “Beauty in the
discarded”, 2014, India4a.circular
economy
201. from fast to slow fashion
long sellers
interactive, complex, immaterial
product-service-system
Timo Rissanen, Zero-Waste
Denim, 2010, USA5a.advanced
artisanship
203. mass profession of prosumers
multidisciplinary communities
tinkering & self-production
complex designer’s palette
6a.designer
entrepreneur
Wool and the Gang, UK
206. a sustainable manifesto
for textile artisans’ communities
Shift the focus from aesthetics to ethics, from style to quality meanings;
Ethical labour and rights must be set: less bad is not good;
Textile artisanship stands as a slow reaction to fast fashion;
Textiles are interconnected to their wholeness: materials, processes,
people, places;
Being vs. having, learning from nature and acknowledging the unpredictable;
Manage connectivity within local communities, as collective wisdom and
social act of collaboration;
Design as political agent, embracing diversity as resource, weaving
synergies among different assets;
Scale up open initiatives within peer-to-peer networks at a glocal scale;
Understand the root system and trigger holistic and systemic change,
from micro to macro scales;
Build an enabling ecosystem: complex, adaptive infrastructure supported
by polycentric governance.