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Coty my olfactoryjourney-fr-08.12.10
- 2. MER HESPERIDEE COLLINES AROMATIQUES VALLEE DES FLEURS ILE CHYPREE MONTAGNES BOISEES DESERT ORIENTAL
- 3. FAMILLE HESPERIDEE pamplemousse or a bigarade / Retour aux Familles ri ne / manda e n t an g er i citron nge amère bergamote
- 4. pamplemousse Origine : Bardade Retour famille hespéridée
- 5. citron Origine / culture : Inde de l’Est Europe du Sud Californie Floride Israel Retour famille hespéridée
- 6. citron Du Perse “limu” et du Sanskrit “nimbuka. Croisés au Xe siècle Retour famille hespéridée
- 7. mandarine / tangerine Origine / culture : Chine Japon Italie Brésil Retour famille hespéridée
- 8. mandarine / tangerine Offert en cad eau aux Mandari ns Chinois Retour famille hespéridée
- 9. bigarade / orange amère Origine / culture : Chine Itale Côte d’Ivoire Retour famille hespéridée
- 10. bigarade / orange amère Duchesse de Néroli Retour famille hespéridée
- 11. bergamote Origine : Italie du Sud (Calabre, Sicile) Asie Retour famille hespéridée
- 12. bergamote Retour famille hespéridée Le jardin des Hespérides et Hera
- 13. bergamote 1811 : Jean-Ma rie Farina 1676 : Aqua Admirabilis Retour famille hespéridée
- 14. FAMILLE AROMATIQUE sauge sclarée lavande basilic Retour aux Familles romari menthe n
- 15. sauge sclarée etour famille aromatique Origine : Moyen-Orient Sud de la France Régions méditerranéennes Asie de l’Ouest Afrique du nord
- 16. Martin Luther sauge sclarée Médecine traditionnelle etour famille aromatique « Comm ent s’il a de la sa un homm e m eurt-il uge dans so n jardin? »
- 17. lavande Origine : Régions méditerranéennes Afrique du Sud Inde de l’Est Retour famille aromatique
- 18. lavande etour famille aromatique Lavande et parfums pour lutter contre la Peste
- 19. romarin Culture : Climat méditerranéen Retour famille aromatique
- 20. romarin etour famille aromatique Rosée de la mer Sperme d’Uranus Aphrodite
- 21. romarin etour famille aromatique « Eau de la Reine de Ho ngrie »,en 1370, le premier parfum à base d’alcool
- 22. basilic Retour famille aromatique Origine & Culture : Asie Europe Sud de la France Maroc Madagascar La Réunion
- 23. basilic etour famille aromatique r attirer m e et po u exorcis Utilisé en l’amour
- 24. menthe etour famille aromatique Principal producteur: USA
- 26. FAMILLE FLORALE magnolia rose chèvrefeuille fleur d’oranger néroli pivoine fresia violette Retour aux Familles iris muguet ylang ylang jasmin tubéreuse héliotrope Notes fruitées >>
- 28. rose Retour famille florale Concept de l’Amour associé à Vénus et Aphrodite
- 29. rose L’Or bulga Retour famille florale re
- 30. rose Retour famille florale Le pouvoir de séduction des pétales de roses de Cléopâtre
- 31. rose Grasse Rose Centifolia Maroc Retour famille florale
- 32. chèvrefeuille Origin : Chine Europe Amérique du Nord Retour famille florale
- 33. magnolia Origine : Amérique du Nord Amérique centrale Asie Retour famille florale
- 35. jasmin Origine & culture : Inde France Italie Afrique du Nord Egypte Retour famille florale
- 36. jasmin Retour famille florale « Jasminade » à Grasse
- 37. violette Origine & culture : Europe Asie Afrique du Nord Retour famille florale
- 38. violette Retour famille florale Nymphe Io transformée en génisse par Hera et en violette par Zeus
- 39. pivoine Origine & culture : Europe Retour famille florale
- 40. pivoine la Nymphe Peona Geishas Retour famille florale
- 41. fresia Origine & culture : Afrique du Sud Retour famille florale
- 42. fresia « Ballerina Retour famille florale »
- 43. tubéreuse Origine : Mexique Retour famille florale
- 44. tubéreuse ariage leurs du m F En Inde Retour famille florale
- 46. iris Sym bo l e de v éternel ie le e pour le est utilisé e La racin nout Ras-el-ha Retour famille florale
- 47. muguet Origine : Europe Asie Retour famille florale
- 48. muguet dans les u mariage La fleur d uest pays de l’O Retour famille florale
- 49. muguet déesse et de la Ma ri e le fleur de re d’Hermès, La è Maia, m er des Dieux m e ssa g Retour famille florale
- 50. héliotrope Origine : Très répandu Régions subtropicales Retour famille florale
- 51. NOTES FRUITEES melon d’eau << Famille florale Retour aux familles la note ananas prune fruits rouges pêche p l a no t e omme la note café
- 52. melon d’eau Habitat naturel: Egypte Retour notes fruitées
- 54. prune Habitat naturel: Asie de l’Ouest Retour notes fruitées
- 55. prune Louis et Hen riette PELLIE R pendant la R uée vers l’Or Retour notes fruitées
- 56. fruits rouges Retour notes fruitées
- 57. ananas Habitat naturel : Brésil Paraguay Retour notes fruitées
- 58. ananas Christophe C olom b Guadeloupe en Retour notes fruitées
- 59. pomme Habitat naturel: Asie occidentale Retour notes fruitées
- 60. pomme Am our, tenta tio connaissance n, immortalité…, Retour notes fruitées
- 61. café Habitat naturel: Amérique du Sud Retour notes fruitées
- 62. FAMILLE CHYPRE patchouli ne mousse de chê Retour aux Familles bergamote résinoïdes
- 63. mousse de chêne Origin : Note synthétique Molécule Evernyl Retour famille Chypre
- 64. patchouli Chine Origine : Madagascar Vers famille boisée Retour famille Chypre Indonésie Philippines
- 65. patchouli Flower Power Vers famille boisée Retour famille Chypre
- 66. bergamote Origine : Italie du Sud (Calabre, Sicile) Asie Vers famille hespéridée Retour famille Chypre
- 67. bergamote Vers famille hespéridée Retour famille Chypre Le jardin des Hespérides et Hera
- 68. bergamote 1811 : Jean-Ma rie Farina 1676 : Aqua Admirabilis Vers famille hespéridée Retour famille Chypre
- 69. résinoïdes LABDANUM Régions méditerranéennes GALBANUM Iran & Asie Mineure OLIBAN Afrique & Moyen-Orient MYRRHE Origine : Somalie Arabie Yémen Retour famille Chypre BENJOIN Origine : Indochine Culture: Malaysie Sumatra Laos Vietnam
- 70. myrrhe Myrrhe et encens, un rituel divin au Un cade Retour famille Chypre sacré
- 71. benjoin Retour famille Chypre Seul un cœur pur peut récolter la sève de benjoin et sap et combattre les serpents venimeux qui la protègent
- 72. FAMILLE BOISEE bois de fir balsam santal bois de cèdre r vétive i patchoul Retour aux familles bois de gaiac Notes épicées >>
- 73. bois de santal Origine : Inde Australie Retour famille boisée
- 74. bois de santal u L’arbre d Rituels Bouddhistes: rosaires et encens Retour famille boisée Paradis
- 75. bois de cèdre Origine : Himalaya Régions Méditérranéennes Maroc/ Atlas Retour famille boisée
- 76. bois de cèdre Le bois des sarcophages, symbole d’immortalité de cosm histoire Une Retour famille boisée etiques
- 77. fir balsam Origine : Canada USA Retour famille boisée
- 78. patchouli Chine Origine : Madagascar Retour famille boisée Indonésie Philippines
- 79. patchouli Flower Power Retour famille boisée
- 80. bois de gaiac Habitat naturel : Amérique du Sud Caraïbes Retour famille boisée
- 81. vétiver Habitat naturel : Inde Tahiti Java Haïti Retour famille boisée
- 82. vétiver Auvents et toits de chaume Retour famille boisée
- 83. NOTES EPICEES girofle noix de muscade poivre rose Vers famille boisée Retour aux Familles gingembre safran cardamome coriandre poivre noir
- 84. girofle Habitat naturel : Indonesie Retour notes épicées
- 85. girofle Tradition de Retour notes épicées N oël Cigarettes « Kretek »
- 86. noix de muscade Origine : Iles Banda (Indonésie) Retour notes épicées
- 87. safran Origine: Asie du Sud Ouest Retour notes épicées
- 88. coriandre Origine : Europe du Sud Afrique du Nord Asie du Sud Ouest Retour notes épicées
- 89. coriandre kham on e Toutan L’épice d Retour notes épicées
- 90. poivre rose Origine : Sud Brésil Nord de l’Argentine Paraguay Retour notes épicées
- 91. gingembre Origine et culture : Asie du Sud Afrique de l’Est Caraïbes Inde Retour notes épicées
- 92. cardamome Origine : Inde du Sud Retour notes épicées
- 93. poivre noir Origine & producteurs: Inde Malaysie Indonésie Brésil Vietnam Madagascar Retour notes épicées
- 94. poivre noir Vasco De Gama La C o m p a nie créée par des Indes Louis XIV Une nouvelle monnaie d’échange Retour notes épicées
- 95. FAMILLE ORIENTALE cannelle musc Retour aux Familles vanille castoreum n fève to civette ka ambregris accord c u ir
- 99. vanille vanille couvre la Cortès dé 1520 en Considéré comme aphrodisiaque depuis la période aztèque Retour famille orientale
- 100. vanille Edmond Albius t ion ar Pollinisa Retour famille orientale tificielle
- 101. fève tonka Origine: Amazonie Retour famille orientale
- 102. ambregris Origine: Océan Atlantique Brésil Madagascar Chine Japon Retour famille orientale Inde Australie Nouvelle Zélande Iles Mollusques
- 108. Et maintenant, nous vous invitons à poursuivre votre voyage dans le monde des parfums Coty…
Notes de l'éditeur
- Now that you have started to travel in the olfactory families with the video, I invite you to continue your journey and stop on each olfactory family to lean more about its main ingredients…
- You can either choose on this screen the family you wish to view, and come back to this screen by clicking on the button « back to families » to choose another family, Or you can play the full presentation by simply clicking to see the next slide.
- The Citrus family Click on any ingredient to know more about it, or simply click to see one ingredient after the other. You can go back anytime by clicking on the button located on the bottom left corner.
- Grapefruit Origin: It was discovered in the 1750s, probably in Bardados.
- Lemon Native habitat / Cultivation : East India / Southern Europe, California, Florida, and Israel.
- This sunny citrus fruit originally from East India was brought from Middle East to Europe by the crusaders in the 10th century. The origin of the name lemon comes from the Persian “limu” and from the Sanskrit “nimbuka”. With its high vitamin content, it was used to prevent the scurvy that afflicted travellers during great voyages of discovery.
- Mandarine/tangerine Native habitat / Cultivation : China, Japan , Italy, Brazil
- Traditions: This fruit was a traditional gift to mandarins in China. It was introduced into Europe early in the 19th century and to the U.S. 40 years later. When crossed with the bitter orange in Algeria by Father Clement, the mandarin produced the clementine, whose fruits have replaced the mandarin on the market because they ripen earlier and contain fewer pips. Tangerine, the American variety of East Asian Mandarin is actually larger, rounder and yellower than the mandarin. Its name comes from Tangier, Morocco, the port from which the first tangerines were shipped to Europe.
- Bigarade/ bitter orange Native habitat / Cultivation : China, Italy, Ivory Coast
- Neroli was the name of a 17th century duchess whose favourite perfume was essential oil of bitter orange flowers, which she made fashionable.
- Bergamot Origin : Originally from Asia, it is now commonly produced on the Coast of Southern Italy (Calabria, Sicily) In Italy, it is a fruit traditionally associated with the charms and rituals of material success - Sicilians still keep dried bergamot in their tills today to ensure prosperity.
- Bergamot is said to symbolise the scent of the mythical Garden of the Hesperides, a triad of nymphs who tended the Greek goddess Hera’s orchard.
- The precursor to Eau de Cologne, Paolo Feminis created Aqua Admirabilis in 1676 using Bergamot, and his grandson dubbed it Aqua di Cologna. It then became one of the essential ingredients of all great Colognes...
- The Aromatic family
- Clary Sage Native to the middle East, Clary Sage grows in southern France and in all the Mediterranean areas, as well as western Asia and north Africa.
- The Chinese also were quite partial to this herb. 17th century Dutch merchants found that they would trade one chest of sage leaves for three of their teas. Considered by the Greeks and Romans as a wonderful plant able to fight all types of diseases, Sage owes its name to the Latin “Salvia” from “Salvare” which means heal and safe. A medieval saying, sometimes attributed to Martin Luther, is : « Why should a man die whilst sage grows in his garden? ».
- Lavender Origin: The Lavender is native from the Mediterranean region, south to tropical Africa and east to India. France is the main producer of lavender, especially in the Haute-Provence, the Drôme and the Vaucluse regions.
- Lavender was commonly used in Roman baths to scent the water, and it was thought to restore the skin. During the height of the Plague, glove makers at Grasse would scent their leathers with lavender oil, and this was claimed to ward off the Plague. This story could have some validity as the Plague was transmitted by fleas, which lavender is known to repel.
- Rosemary Since it is attractive and tolerates some degree of drought, it is also used in landscaping, especially in areas having a Mediterranean climate.
- Coming from the Latin words Ros Marinus Rosemary translates into Dew of the Sea. It was said to be draped around Aphrodite when she rose from the sea and was originally born of Ourano’s semen. Today the goddess Aphrodite is associated with rosemary.
- Rosemary was used in the first occidental fragrance, L’Eau de la Reine de Hongrie in 1370.
- Basil Native to Asia, basil is cultivated as a culinary herb in Europe, southern France, Morocco, Madagascar and Reunion The plant blossoms between May and September.The essential oil is obtained through steam distillation of the leaves and the flowers
- Basil has been used for over 2,000 years. Long ago, young girls used to leave basil leaveson the window sill to attract young men's attention. Aromatheraphy: refreshing, it has a toning effect on the skin. Eight leaves of basil brewed in water soothes internal aches and pains.In the central region of the Congo, basil leaves are used to fight evil spirits. Basil also has magical properties and brings love and wealth. It is used to exorcise evil.
- Mint Main producer: USA Garden mint essence is obtained through steam distillation of the fresh flowers.
- Mint got its name from a nymph called Minthe. Pluto was in love with her so his jealous wife Persephone turned her into a plant.The Greeks believed that mint was a sexual stimulant and forbade soldiers from using it. The Arabs considered it as the oficial harem plant. Helps digestion and breathing. Used as a soothing remedy for chills and skin rashes. Acts as a toner and a coolant.
- The Floral Family
- Rose Origin: China. Most rose oil is produced in Bulgaria, Morocco, Iran and Turkey, France The name comes from the Latin term “rosa” (rain, dew), which itself has Indo-European origins, and from the Green “rhodo”. The rose was highly prominent in the Antiquity and even associated with decadence in the Roman Empire (Nero).
- Rose belongs to the concept of love, associated with Venus and Aphrodite. The first rose bush emerged on earth at the very moment when Venus coming out of the sea. A drop of nectar, deposited by the gods on the young shrub gave birth to the rose. After a scratch against the thorns of a white rose bush, the drops of the divine blood fell on the white rose flowers and transformed them to red.
- The Damascus rose: cultivated by Persians and brought back to Europe by the Crusaders. Damascus roses are grown in Turkey and most of all at the foot of the Balkans, where they are referred to as “Bulgarian gold”.
- In the East: in Egypt , the rose dominated oriental gardens and was the favorite flower of Persian poets. In Persia, known for its magnificent gardens, roses blossomed all year long. Mohammed loves perfume and demands that followers apply rose water and orange blossom before going to the mosque. When guests arrive, they are sprinkled with rose water on the head, face, neck and hands. Cleopatra, who loved perfumes and perfectly knew how to take advantage of the seductive power of scented ointments, seduced Cesar on a bed of Rose Petals.
- Rosa centifolia: also called painters’ rose, this variety was introduced at the beginning of the 17th century by the Dutch. The flowers are heavy and scented, with an abundance of petals (cabbage rose). A specialty of Grasse, it is also widely grown in the Valley of Dadès, in Morocco.
- Honeysuckle There are about 180 species of honeysuckle, 100 of which occur in China. Europe and North America have only about 20 native species each. The plant is eaten by the larvae of some Lepidoptera species.
- Magnolia Origin: The natural range of Magnolia species is rather scattered. It includes eastern North America, Central America, the West Indies and east and southeast Asia. Some species are found in South America. Name: The genus is named after Pierre Magnol, a botanist from Montpellier in France. History: Magnolia is an ancient genus. Having evolved before bees appeared, the flowers developed to encourage pollination by beetles. Fossilised specimens of Magnolia Acuminata have been found dating to 20 million years ago, and of plants identifiably belonging to the Magnoliaceae dating back to 95 million years ago.
- Ylang-Ylang Cultivated in the Comoro Islands The blossoms are harvested at dawn, when their level of essential oil is at its highest point.
- Jasmine Native habitat: The mountains of North West India Cultivation: France, Italy, North Africa, Égypt and India The species that interests the perfume industry is jasminum sambac, grown in India.
- Traditions: In Grasse, « the jasminade » is held every year with floral processions, battles of flowers and fireworks. In China, where it is the symbol of feminine gentleness, it is used to scent tea.
- Violet Native habitat: Europe, Asia, North Africa Cultivation: South, Central and Western Europe
- Traditions: According to legend, the violet was created by Zeus. Turned into a heifer by jealous Hera (Zeus’ wife), the nymph Io was transformed into a violet by the King of the Gods. Before departing on their legendary adventures, King Arthur’s knights always put a bunch of violets at the centre of the round table to discover the future. They read their destiny from the position of the sun’s rays on the bouquet.
- Peony Natural habitat: Europe
- Traditions: Peony would come from the Greek «paionia». It might either derive from the name «Paeon», the doctor of gods who, according to Homer, discovered its Virtues and treated Pluto, or from the name of the nymph «Peona», who was turned into a peony after attempting indecent assault, the red corolla recalling the colour of her face. Uses/ Virtues: Peonies have been cultivated for over 2,000 years, more for their medicinal qualities than for ornament. Due to its content in paeniflorine, peony root is allotted calming virtues on the nervous central system. The plant is thus renowned for its analgesic and anti-inflammatory virtues. As early as the 4th century BC, famous doctors such as Hippocrates, Galen and Theophrastus, recommended peony as a choice remedy against epilepsy. The Japanese protect the earliest peony blooms from the snow by protecting them with individual small thatched shelters. Some geishas used to wear special peony colours. The Chinese also idolised this flower. Peony motifs, particularly bright red ones, can be found on Chinese silks and in their exuberant wood carvings.
- Freesia Origin: South Africa, first imported to Europe at the end of the 19th century. Name: After Dr Friedrich Heinrich Theodor Freese, a German physician.
- One of the nicest varieties is "Ballerina", which look like elegant dancers. Freesia exists in a wide range of colours including yellows, red, pinks and white.
- Tuberose The tuberose is a night-blooming plant thought to be native to Mexico
- It is a prominent plant in Indian culture and mythology. The flowers are used in wedding ceremonies, garlands, decoration and various traditional rituals. The translation of its name in Hindi means Night perfume. As a matter of fact, tuberose is very particular : its flowers continue to renew their odoriferous molecules during more than 48 hours after they have been collected. According to an anecdote, Mrs de La Vallière, Louis XIV’s lover, used to ask for tuberose bouquets to be placed in her bedroom. Indeed, pregnant women were supposed to find tuberose smell unpleasant, and Mrs de la Vallière wanted to convince the queen that she was not pregnant. Finally, in Italy, young women were not allowed to walk at night in the gardens where tuberose used to grow, as they could not have resisted young men, also bewitched by its erotic smell.
- Iris Native to Macedonia, iris is very common all over the Mediterranean area, especially in Italy (Tuscany).
- The Greek word "iris" designates the halo surrounding a source of light. The ancient Romans believed that the daily inhalation of perfumes fragranced with iris gave eternal life. Orris root is often included as one of the many ingredients of Ras el hanout, a blend of herbs and spices used across the Middle East and North Africa, primarily associated with Moroccan cuisine.
- Lily of the Valley Origin: Northern hemisphere Europe and Asia
- Symbol of happiness and beauty, Lily of the valley is much used in bridal arrangements for their sweet perfume.
- A Christian legend states that Mary's tears turned to lily of the valley when she cried at the crucifixion of Jesus, and because of this it is also known as Mary's tears. Its scientific name, majalis or maialis, means "of or belonging to May", and old astrological books place the plant under the dominion of Mercury, since Maia, the daughter of Atlas, was the mother of Mercury or Hermes.
- Heliotrop Origin and cultivation: widely spread, mostly subtropical areas The Heliotrope’s name was derived from Helios, Greek for sun, and tropein meaning turn, as these plants turn their leaves to the sun.
- Fruity notes
- Watermelon Natural habitat: The first recorded watermelon harvest occurred nearly 5,000 years ago in Egypt. Today over 1,200 varieties are grown worldwide in 96 countries. Natural habitat The first recorded watermelon harvest occurred nearly 5,000 years ago in Egypt. Today over 1,200 varieties are grown worldwide in 96 countries.
- Peach Persica comes from the Latin “malum persicus", meaning Persian apple, an allusion to the country thought to be the birthplace of peach tree. Peaches are known in China, Japan, Korea, Laos, and Vietnam not only as a popular fruit but for the many folktales and traditions associated with it. In China, the peach was said to be consumed by the immortals due to its mystic virtue of conferring longevity on all who ate them. Symbol of revival, youth and fleeting love, peach fruits have long been considered as sensual gifts. In ancient times, these body-shape-like fruits, with velvety soft skin, were forbidden to young girls and desired by women.
- Plum The plum is native to western Asia and more exactly to Caucasus mountains which bound the Caspian Sea.
- Plum trees were introduced in America in 1856 by Louis Pellier, a Frenchman who grew seedlings in tree nursery, and had come in California in 1848 to find gold. He returned to his profession and, with his brother Pierre, he began the plums culture in the southwest of the United States.
- Red Fruits
- Pineapple The pineapple is native to southern Brazil and Paraguay.
- This tropical beauty received its appellation from the English because of its resemblance to the pinecone. Most other Europeans call it ananas derived from the Paraguayan “nana” meaning excellent (or exquisite) fruit. In 1493 Columbus found the fruit on the island of Guadeloupe and carried it back to Spain and it was spread around the world on sailing ships.
- Apple The tree originated in Western Asia, where its wild ancestor is still found today. The apple tree was perhaps the earliest tree to be cultivated,and its fruits have been improved through selection over thousands of years. Alexander the Great is credited with finding dwarfed apples in Asia Minor in 300 BCE
- The apple was considered in ancient Greece to be sacred to Aphrodite, and to throw an apple at someone was to symbolically declare one's love; and similarly, to catch it was to symbolically show one's acceptance. An epigram claiming authorship by Plato states: «I throw the apple at you, and if you are willing to love me, take it and share your girlhood with me; but if your thoughts are what I pray they are not, even then take it, and consider how short-lived is beauty ». In the story of Adam and Eve, the apple became a symbol for knowledge, immortality, temptation, the fall of man into sin, and sin itself. In Latin, the words for "apple" and for "evil" are similar in the singular.
- Coffee Still used confidentially in the perfume industry due to solubility, it can, however, be found in leathery, smokey, vanilla and chypre fragrances. Its multi-faceted side mostly appeals to creators. Extraction of fruit seeds of the coffee tree using supercritical CO2 produces a very dense, thick liquid.
- The Chypre family
- Oakmoss Origin – Method of Extraction : Synthetic note based on the Evernyl molecule. The oak tree has historically been the most venerated of trees.For the Greeks, it was the original tree from which humanity sprang, so they dedicated it to Zeus. The Romans dedicated it to Jupiter. Classical chypre accord: bergamot/oakmoss/patchouli/labdanum New chypre accord: oakmoss accord (evernyl)/patchouli + fruit (peach, plum) or musks
- Patchouli Native habitat: Indonesia Cultivation: Indonesia, China, Philippines, Madagascar
- For centuries, cashmere shawls were scented with patchouli to increase their value and protect them from insects. Imported into England in the middle of the 19th century, it became a basic item in the sachets, pots-pourris and fragrances of the Victorian era. Patchouli is the emblematic fragrance of Seventies hippy « flower power ».
- Bergamot Origin : Originally from Asia, it is now commonly produced on the Coast of Southern Italy (Calabria, Sicily) In Italy, it is a fruit traditionally associated with the charms and rituals of material success - Sicilians still keep dried bergamot in their tills today to ensure prosperity.
- Bergamot is said to symbolise the scent of the mythical Garden of the Hesperides, a triad of nymphs who tended the Greek goddess Hera’s orchard.
- The precursor to Eau de Cologne, Paolo Feminis created Aqua Admirabilis in 1676 using Bergamot, and his grandson dubbed it Aqua di Cologna. It then became one of the essential ingredients of all great Colognes...
- Labdanum : is a sticky brown resin obtained from the shrubs Cistus ladanifer (western Mediterranean) and Cistus creticus (eastern Mediterranean), species of rockrose. In ancient times, labdanum was collected by combing the beards and thighs of goats and sheep that had grazed on the cistus shrubs. The false beards worn by the pharaohs of ancient Egypt were actually the labdanum soaked hair of these goats. Oliban : The word oliban comes from the Greek libanos, which means “fragrant resin. Also known as frankincense, the resin is harvested from the Boswellia shrub, which is native to Africa and the Middle East. Galbanum resinoid : Native to Iran and in Asia Minor. History Myths Legends Known for centuries in a resin form, the Arabs used to call it "Kinnah". In Egypt, it was used in cosmetics in the process of embalming and during Hippocratic time it was employed as medicine.
- Myrrh It is native to Somalia, Arabia and Yemen. Botanical name: Commiphora Myrrha Myrrh was already very popular in ancient time : It was used as a medicine by the Chinese, and as part of the Egyptian sun-worshipping ritual and mummification. As a constituent of perfumes and incense, Myrrh was highly prized, and was often worth more than its weight in gold. It was said that the Roman Emperor Nero burned a year's worth of myrrh at the funeral of his wife, Poppapea. Myrrh was also one of the gifts of the Magi to the baby Jesus in the story told in the Bible.
- Benzoin Styrax tonkinensis Family: Styraceae Native habitat: Indochina Cultivation: Malaysia, Sumatra, Laos, Vietnam Traditions: The word benzoin comes from the Arabic « luban-djawi », Java incense. In many asian countries, benzoin is credited with the power to open the spirit to the great secrets. The tree was said to be guarded by winged serpents and only a pure heart could harvest the sacred sap.
- The Woody family
- Origin: Australia and India
- Upon rocky lands in the hot, dry climate of Australia, the sandal tree grows, scattered among other trees. Symbol of goodness and the tree of heaven in eastern religions, sandalwood has long been used in religious rituals (India). In Buddhism, its incense is burnt as a gift to the gods.
- Cedarwood Cedar trees are native to the mountains of the western Himalaya and the Mediterranean region. Cedars grow naturally in Morocco in the Rif and Middle Atlas regions.
- Since ancient Greek times it has symbolised immortality and eternity. In the Middle East, essence of cedar was used to scent hammams. The ancient Egyptians already used this oil, namely to embalm, for cosmetics and perfumery.
- Balsam Fir Origin: USA and Canada Very popular as Christmas tree, particularly in the north/east of the USA
- Patchouli Native habitat: Indonesia Cultivation: Indonesia, China, Philippines, Madagascar
- For centuries, cashmere shawls were scented with patchouli to increase their value and protect them from insects. Imported into England in the middle of the 19th century, it became a basic item in the sachets, pots-pourris and fragrances of the Victorian era. Patchouli is the emblematic fragrance of Seventies hippy « flower power ».
- Gaiac wood Natural habitat: South America, West Indies Description: The best quality of this wild tree comes from the West Indies. Gaiacwood (lignum vitae) is the heaviest, hardest wood on the market, it is used to manufacture some parts of boats.
- Vetiver Mainly cultivated in the tropics, such as India, Tahiti, Java and Haiti.
- Vetiver can grow up to 1.5 meters high and form clumps just as wide. The stems are tall and the leaves are long, thin and rather rigid. The flowers are brownish purple. The grass was used in Calcutta and Haiti for thatching and awnings, blinds and sunshades, while in Java the roots were used for weaving mats and thatching huts, which not only gave rooms an exquisite fragrance but also deterred insects. It was imported to the Caribbean in the 18thcentury, but the highest quality Vetyver today comes from Haiti.
- Spicy notes
- Clove Native to Indonesia Native to Indonesia
- During Christmas, it is a tradition in some European countries to make pomanders from cloves and oranges to hang around the house. This spreads a nice scent throughout the house and acts as holiday decorations. The spice is used in a type of cigarettes called kretek in Indonesia. Kreteks have been smoked throughout Europe, Asia and the United States. In 2009, clove cigarettes (as well as fruit and candy flavored cigarettes) were outlawed in the US. However, they are still sold in virtually identical form, re-labeled as "filtered clove cigars. »
- Nutmeg Native to the Banda Islands in the Moluccas of Indonesia, or Spice Islands. The small Banda Islands were the world's only source of nutmeg and mace. Nutmeg was traded by Arabs during the Middle Ages and sold to the Venetians for very high prices, but the traders did not divulge the exact location of their source in the profitable Indian Ocean trade, and no European was able to deduce their location.
- Saffron Saffron is a spice derived from the flower of the saffron crocus (Crocus sativus), a species of crocus. The flower bears three stigmas, each the distal end of a carpel Saffron, long the world's most expensive spice by weight,[is native to Southwest Asia.[ Saffron-based pigments have been found in 50,000 year-old depictions of prehistoric places in northwest Iran Ancient Persians cultivated Persian saffron by the 10th century BC.
- Coriander Coriander is native to southern Europe and North Africa to southwestern Asia.
- Introduced from the East by the Romans, Coriander is an aromatic stimulant and spice, cultivated since ancient times. About half a litre of coriander mericarps were recovered from the tomb of Tutankhamun, and because this plant does not grow wild in Egypt, Zohary and Hopf interpret this find as proof that coriander was cultivated by the ancient Egyptians Coriander seems to have been cultivated in Greece since at least the second millennium BC. One of the Linear B tablets recovered from Pylos refers to the species as being cultivated for the manufacture of perfumes, and it appears that it was used in two forms: as a spice for its seeds and as a herb for the flavor of its leaves
- Pink Pepper Native to subtropical and tropical South America (southeastern Brazil, northern Argentina and Paraguay.
- Ginger Ginger cultivation began in South Asia and has since spread to East Africa and the Caribbean . Mainly cultivated in India
- Cardamom Native habitat: South India The mature fruit is a capsule holding about twenty seeds containing the aromatic principles.
- Black Pepper Pepper is native to the west coast of India (Malabar coast). Today, the main producers are India, Malaysia, Indonesia, Brazil, Vietnam and Madagascar.
- From the Sanskrit “Pilpali”... this spice made the fortune of Venice. Pepper has been the most used and most prized spice since the Ancient Times. When the Goths threatened to sack Rome in 408 B.C., they demanded pepper, gold and silver. More rare and precious than gold, it was then a true currency (according to an old expression: “as expensive as pepper”). It was one of the earliest items traded Asia and Europe. In 1101, victorious Genovese soldiers were each given two pounds of Pepper as a gift for their successful Palestinian conquest. In the Middle Ages, Europeans often used Pepper to pay rent, dowries, and taxes, and Shakespeare mentions Pepper in his plays. The need for Pepper inspired Spanish exploration and spice trade in the 15th century. The great Portuguese expeditions (Vasco de Gama in particular) were undertaken to try and obtain it more cheaply. The Creation of the Company of the Indies by the French helped spread the use of pepper and put an end to the monopoly enjoyed until then by the Portuguese.
- Oriental family
- Cinnamon Cinnamon comes from an evergreen tree found in tropical regions. It is mostly grown in India and Sri Lanka but can also be found in China and Indonesia. The best-quality cinnamon is Ceylon cinnamon.
- Cinnamon is the most ancient spice. In 2000 B.C. it was traded as a all over the Mediterranean region. It is mentioned several times in the Bible as Kinamom, it was also considered as being more valuable than gold. It was so highly prized among ancient nations that it was regarded as a gift fit for monarchs and even for a god: a fine inscription records the gift of cinnamon and cassia to the temple of Apollo at Miletus.
- Vanilla Native to Central America, vanilla is the fruit of a small yellow orchid. Madagascar vanilla (Vanilla planifolia) is the most widely used vanilla in perfumery. Tahitian vanilla is a different type of vanilla. It contains less vanillin and more heliotropine and diffuses a very heady, amber, almost carnal perfume with a fruity side.
- Since ancient times, the Aztecs used vanilla in their famous chocolate beverage to increase its aphrodisiac effect. The European conquistador Cortès discovered vanilla in 1520.
- Edmond Albius was born slave in réunion Island and discovered in 1841 how to fertilize vanilla. Having studied the sexuality of this orchid, botanists discovered that vanilla is hermaphrodite and cannot self-fertilize. Edmond Albius, a man born salve in the Reunion Island discovered in 1841 the fertilization process of vanilla: A hymen prevented the pollen from penetrating inside. It was necessary to pierce the hymen with a stylet. Once fertilized (by artificial pollinization), the ovary becomes rapidly enlarged and it takes about 9 months from fertilization to harvest and then another 9 months for it to exude all of its aromas.
- Tonka Bean Native to south America, tonka beans are the seed of a fruit of a tall Amazonian jungle tree. The tonka bean adds a delicious almond fragrance to amber-based fern and, above all oriental notes. The seeds are dried, then macerated in alcohol (rum) for twelve to twenty-four hours and finally redried. This process allows coumarin crystals to develop on the surface. The tree from which the tonka bean is collected is one of four species which definitely live to over 1,000 years. Until their research, it had been assumed unlikely that any Amazonian tree could live to great age due to the conditions of the rain forest.
- Ambergris Origin: Tropical seas: Ambergris can be found in the Atlantic Ocean, on the coasts of Brazil and Madagascar, also on the coast of Africa, of the East Indies, mainland China, Japan, India, Australia, New Zealand and the Molucca islands. However, most commercially collected ambergris came from the Bahama Islands or Providence Island History: Ambergris, a sought-after product, has been traded in Africa since 1000 B.C. It was counted among North Africa's luxury goods, along with black slaves and gold. One of the biggest pieces ever found was sold in London in 1913: it weighed over 336 pounds. Lighter than water, ambergris floats half-immersed. Brushed by the waves, carried by the currents and for a long time subject to sunlight, floating amber becomes discolored, purified and refined. in the 18th century, the time when ambergris gained greater influence than musk, it was customary to say that a man was “as fine as amber” to mean that he was a good lover.
- Musk Origin: Summits of the Himalaya
- Musk is a secretion produced in a glandular sac beneath the skin of the abdomen of the male musk deer, a ruminant inhabiting the mountains of China, Tibet and Tonkin. Approximately 40 sacs are required in order to obtain 1 kg of musk. Musk grains, when removed from its sac, is a substance with a high ammonia content, a suffocating odor and the texture of ground coffee. Fortunately for perfume makers, muskone, the essential component of musk Tonkin, has been produced artificially from nitrated musk for over a century
- Castoreum Animal: Beaver Origin: Russia, Canada Part used: Substance secreted by the anal glands
- Civet Animal: Civet Origin: Ethiopia Part used: Substance secreted and released from a gland found near the anus
- Leather accord The leather accord is the combination of several raw materials. Ambery notes are the key ingredients of the typical leather accord.
- And now, we invite you to continue your journey through the world of Coty fragrances…