www.kamulodge.com

1. The boy with the pump- and thatched houses clamber I am the first to try the lao Sitting Ducks
action revolver clearly meant their way up the side of the lao. It tastes warm like a shot We have hardly disembarked in
business. Smiling through his hill. The newer buildings have of tequila, but without any Luang Prabang before the first
toothless grin he let me have it. concrete walls and tin roofs. pungent aftertaste. Fortunately water cannon hits us. Trapped
A huge jet of water exploded We climb to the top to meet the scorpion stays safe within in our tuk tuk, we are sitting
onto my already drenched the farmer who has just shown his bottle. Our afternoon excur- ducks to every man woman and
t-shirt. This is how they say us how to plant rice. He is now sion over, we retire to our tents child. By the time we reach the
‘Sabaidee Pbeemai’ or 'Happy constructing his new home to freshen up. The sound of the sanctuary of our resort, the Villa
New Year' in Laos. and judging by the number of cicadas intensifies as the night Maly, all are drenched to the
Fortunately, I had already concrete blocks involved, he draws in and we are left to skin. I have now experienced
planned my retreat. A three- benefits from his employ at the entertain ourselves in a world New Year in Cambodia, Laos,
hour boat ride along the lodge. He is one of 30 villagers devoid of electricity. Thailand and Myanmar. While
Mekong river from Luang who work there. Luang Prabang lacks the rock
Prabang, Kamu Lodge is as Under Canvas concert feel of Yangon, what it
close to getting back to nature A Model Village It is many a year since I last slept lacks in amplification it certainly
as you can find in this world of An official-looking notice board under canvas, but this is not makes up for in energy.
globalised travel. informs us that Yoi Hai is a mod- camping as I knew it on cold From midday to sunset
Consisting of a series of el village. Lee says this means summer nights in England. The a cavalcade of cars, trucks
canvas tents strewn around a ter- that all residents, apart from the floor is tiled, the bed is real rather and tuk tuks parades its way
raced paddy field, solar panels elderly, can read and write. than a rolled-out mat that always around the ancient streets
above each one provide suf- The area was initially inhab- seemed to exaggerate the natural and along the riverfront.
ficient electricity to power small ited by the Buddhist Lau Lum undulations in the ground, and Restaurant, shop and massage
fans and a light, but nothing else. tribe, who moved on as the the outhouse is made of brick. I parlour owners fight pitched
Unable to recharge an iPad government resettled animist decide it’s time to call it a night battles with the invading
or contact the outside world via Kamu people here from the and am lullabied to sleep by the troops. Some show the signs
internet, you are left to the com- neighbouring hills. This was in music of the neighbouring village of camouflage with either
In search of well-deserved respite, pany of your fellow guests and order to bring them closer to as they karaoke their way into the black paint rubbed onto their
publisher Mark Bibby Jackson the solitary white buffalo that formal education, explains Lee. new year. skin or flour daubed on their
chews its way through the rice Now Lau Lum have started The following morning we cheeks. Backpackers join
escapes to the Laotian countryside paddy. Stressed out by modern to return to their former land, head back to Luang Prabang. in the fray, wielding their
and gets caught up in New Year life? Escape to Kamu. although the Kamu are still in Few experiences compare with pump-action water guns like
the majority. A shaman lives a boat ride in Southeast Asia. Vietnam veterans.
chaos along the way. Taste of the Country alongside a Buddhist monk and Early in the morning we see two As night draws, in the
During our stay, a guide two novices. large barges chugging their way traditional traders of the night
called Lee escorts us through We stop at the house of loaded up with what appears market resume their rightful
a series of activities aimed at an old woman who offers us to be sand. Later on we pass positions. Judging by the fresh
providing an insight into the some black scorpion lao lao, fishermen as they hang the lines coiffeur of most of my fellow
life of local villagers. the notorious drink of choice out to dry. travellers, a lot of shampoo-
Judging by our attempts in Laos. Supposed to improve After 45 minutes we approach ing has taken place during the
at crossbow shooting, rice men’s virility, the chances of Pak Ou Cave, a popular day evening ceasefire. The fighting
planting and net fishing, we us putting this to the test seem excursion from Luang Prabang. will resume for a third and
would starve to death if left to remote, although an intrepid, My fellow passengers climb the final day on the following af-
our own devices. Fortunately, retired Australian couple might long steps up to the cave, while ternoon, by which time I shall
accommodation comes with fancy their chances. They have I stay on board with the crew be in neighbouring Chiang
breakfast, lunch and dinner travelled by boat here from watching the day-trippers with Mai to discover how tooth-
already prepared. Chiang Rai across the border in parasols making a pilgrimage to less Thai children usher in the
The lodge borders on the tiny Thailand and only have words wash the many statues of Bud- new year with visitors from a
village of Yoi Hai. Small wooden of praise for their journey. dha inside. foreign land.
48 asialife Cambodia
48 asialife Cambodia asialife Cambodia 49