Discover Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide 2014

Editor: Anu Lakhan
Consulting Editor:
Jeremy Taylor
Online Editor: Caroline
Taylor
Editorial & Design
Assistant: Marissa Rodriguez
Research Assistant:
Shivanee Ramlochan
Design & Layout: Bridget van
Dongen, Kevon Webster
Sales: Denise Chin
Production: Jacqueline Smith
General Manager:
Halcyon Salazar
On the cover: (Top) Port of
Spain Waterfront by Chris Anderson L to R: Hyatt Regency
Trinidad, Port of Spain International Waterfront Centre,
Government Campus Plaza
(Below) 2013 Soca Monarch,
Super Blue (Austin Lyons) in
concert by Aaron Richards
Printers: Caribbean Print
Technologies
A publication of Media & Editorial
Projects Ltd. (MEP)
6 Prospect Avenue, Maraval, Port of
Spain, Trinidad & Tobago
T: (868) 622-3821 / 5813 / 6138
F: (868) 628-0639
E: info@discovertnt.com
W: www.discovertnt.com

Connect with us online on:
/discovertnt
/meppublishers
© 2013 Media & Editorial Projects
(MEP) Ltd. All rights reserved. No
part of this publication may be
reproduced in any form whatsoever
without the prior written consent of
the publisher

Contents
We are Trinidad & Tobago – Welcome

3

What you need to know about T&T

5

Calendar of events

12

We are limers

26

Top 10 things to do for free

28

We are Carnival

31

We celebrate

39

We’d like to show you …

45

We are hikers

53

We’re at the beach

55

We are contenders

58

We are artists of all kinds

66

We are shoppers

70

We are food lovers

76

We have just the place for you

82

Welcome to Tobago

95

We are saving the turtles

97

We’re sunning, surfing, swimming …

99

We are more than just beaches

105

We are divers

108

Things to find out about

112

Moving to Tobago

114

Where to stay

115

Getting married?

119

Maps 122
Index 132

www.discovertnt.com

1

Canada: rkieda@aviareps.com • Germany: trinidadandtobago@aviareps.com • India: huzan.fraser@gmail.com
Scandinavia: Info@spirit-company.dk • United Kingdom: Info@amgltd.biz • United States : Info@cam-pr.com

2 Trinidad

Ayanna Young

We are Trinidad
and Tobago
W

elcome to Trinidad and Tobago, two wonderful islands where contrast and contradiction is the
norm rather than the exception – and for the most part, that works for us.

Trinidad is nothing like what you think of when you imagine a tropical paradise, but Tobago might
deliver on that front. Tobago is nothing like the frenzied party island you imagine when you think of our
Carnival; that is what Trinidad is for.
We are naturally friendly and easy-going and quick to laugh (at ourselves, the world, the person
standing next to us). We’re not turning on the tourist charm, it’s the national personality. Some might think
us frivolous: we just think we have a lively sense of humour.
As light-hearted as we can be, we can be equally serious. Cricket, football and steelbands are some
of the things we can be surprisingly solemn about.
We were once Indian, African, Chinese, Syran, French, Spanish,
English, Portuguese, Amerindian. It used to be a commonplace to refer
to us as a melting pot, but that is a bit of a disservice to the real triumph
of our all living together. While some things blend and fuse, there are
festivals, foods and all manner of artistic expressions that show real
influence from these old ancestors. And therein lies the magic. We share.
Anu Lakhan

We are individuals and we are a people. And in this country that means
everything.

www.discovertnt.com

3

What you need to
know about T&T
Getting here
Major international gateways Arriving by sea
Miami, Fort Lauderdale, New York, Toronto, London

(yachts & sailing boats)
• Arriving yachts should have a

You will need:

clearance certificate from the last

• A passport valid for three months beyond your intend-

port of call, and the vessel’s regis-

ed stay
• Documentation for return or onward travel and a local
address (non-residents)

tration certificate (or authorisation
for use)
• In Trinidad, check in with Cus-

• To double-check visa requirements with your airline

toms & Immigration at CrewsInn

or travel agent (for many nationalities, visas are gener-

in Chaguaramas; in Tobago, check

ally not required for visits up to 30 days)

in with Customs & Immigration in
Scarborough or Charlotteville

Airports

• Chaguaramas in Trinidad is the hub

Trinidad: Piarco International Airport (27km/17 miles

of yachting activity, with sheltered

from Port of Spain)

anchorage maintained by the

Tobago: ANR Robinson International Airport (10km/7

Yachting Association and strings

miles from Scarborough)

of maintenance and repair yards,
marinas and essential services

Transport from the airport

• There are no official anchorage

Authorised private taxis are available at the airport: con-

sites in Tobago, but Mt Irvine Bay,

firm the fare in advance (a list of fares is displayed in

Grafton Beach, Store Bay and Eng-

the arrivals area). If in doubt, check the taxi dispatcher.

lishman’s Bay are popular. On the

Authorised private taxis have licence plates beginning

southeast coast, Anse Bateau is a

with “H” (for “Hire”), and are not metered.

good anchorage and fuelling point

www.discovertnt.com

5

While you are here
Money matters
Money: ABMs (ATMs) and credit/debit cards are routinely used
Currency: Trinidad & Tobago dollar (TT$); US$1= approximately TT$6.4 (floating exchange rate)
Taxes: 10% room tax + 10% service at hotels; 15% VAT (value added tax) on most goods and services

Driving
Which side? We drive on the left. Seatbelts are required by law
Speed limits (private cars): Trinidad, 50kph (30mph) in built-up areas, otherwise 80kph
(50mph); Tobago 50kph (30mph)
Driving permits: Visitors can drive for up to 90 days on a valid foreign or international licence

Utilities
Electricity: 115v/230v, 60Hz
Water: Tap water is safe to drink (boil it if you want to be doubly sure); bottled water is widely available
Mail: TTPost operates the national mail service; FedEx, DHL, UPS and others provide courier service

Telecommunications
Country phone code: 868 (regional code: 1)
Landline telephones: Provided by Telecommunications Services of Trinidad & Tobago (TSTT)
and FLOW. Prepaid international phone cards are available
Mobile telephones: Bmobile (TSTT) and Digicel operate on GSM networks and have introduced 4G broadband mobile service; prepaid SIM cards are available for unlocked phones

Public wi-fi
• FLOW’s FSpots are available free at Rituals, Pizza Boys, Church’s Chicken, Mario’s and Boomer’s restaurants. Bmobile and blink broadband customers can register for free wi-fi at over
50 locations nationwide, including Piarco International Airport, Chaguaramas Boardwalk,
Maracas Bay, the Trinidad Ferry Terminal, Ariapita Avenue, the Cruise Ship Complex, West Mall,
Grand Bazaar, Long Circular Mall, Trincity Mall and Gulf City Mall
• In Tobago, bzone offers wi-fi at the Ferry Terminal, Store Bay, Pigeon Point and Gulf City Mall
(Lowlands)

6

Stephen Jay Photography

Getting around

There are basically five ways of getting around in Trini- Port of Spain to Chaguaramas,
dad & Tobago: private taxis; public taxis and maxi-taxis Diego Martin, Petit Valley, Maraval,
(plying specific routes); buses; a rented car; or with a St Ann’s, Cascade). These “maxis”
tour operator.

carry brightly-coloured bands ac-

Bicycles are hardly ever used except for sports: roads are cording to their area:
generally unsafe for cyclists

Black: San Fernando-Princes Town,
connecting to Mayaro

Private taxis

Blue: Tobago

Available at the airports and the larger hotels; otherwise Brown: San Fernando-La Romainesummoned by phone

Siparia-Point Fortin
Green: Port of Spain (City Gate)-

Public taxis

Curepe-Chaguanas-San Fernando

Route taxis are cars registered as taxis, bearing “H” plates. (King’s Wharf)
They work specific routes, picking up and dropping off Red: Port of Spain-Arima, connectpassengers anywhere along the way

ing to Blanchisseuse, and to Matelot

Maxi-taxis (12- to 25-seat mini-buses) operate in the via Sangre Grande
same way, mostly connecting urban centres (e.g. Port Yellow: Port of Spain-Diego Martinof Spain to San Fernando) or servicing suburbs (e.g. Petit Valley-Chaguaramas
www.discovertnt.com

7

Getting around
Buses
Buses operate from Port of Spain (City Gate) to most towns, sometimes on an “express” basis,
and from hubs in Chaguanas, San Fernando (King’s Wharf) and Scarborough (Sangster’s Hill).
Check the Public Transport Service Corporation (PTSC) at www.ptsc.co.tt for current schedules and fares. Tickets must be purchased from the hub before boarding

Car rentals & tour operators
Local and international rental companies operate in both islands and at both airports. Check the
Yellow Pages

Ferries
Trinidad-Tobago

Port of Spain-San Fernando

Daily inter-island car and passenger ferry ser-

The water taxi service between Trinidad’s two

vice between Port of Spain and Scarborough

cities is operated by the National Infrastructure

is operated by the Port Authority of Trinidad

Development Company (www.nidco.co.tt).

& Tobago (www.patnt.com). All passengers

• The trip takes about 45 minutes each way

must provid ID.

• Fares: TT$15 one way. Infants under the

• The T&T Express and T&T Spirit do the
trip in about two and a half hours each way

age of one travel free; senior citizens (65
and over) travel free on off-peak sailings

• Fares: TT$100 return; children 3-11 years
half price; children under three and senior

Trinidad-Venezuela

citizens (65 and over) travel free; passenger

Pier 1 in Chaguaramas operates a weekly ferry

vehicle charge: TT$150; tickets available

on Wednesdays to Venezuela for TT$1,380

from the ferry terminals, and from some

round-trip plus departure tax. Call 634-4426

post offices and travel agencies

for information

• You can find the ferry schedule at
www.ttitferry.com

Airbridge
Caribbean Airlines operates several flights a

POS-Chaguaramas

day between Trinidad & Tobago (625-7200,

• The POS-Chaguaramas ferry was intro-

www.caribbean-airlines.com). Both airports

duced in 2013. It takes about 30 minutes

have separate departure and arrival areas for air-

and costs TT$20

bridge passengers. Flight time is about 20 minutes.

8

Contacts
Emergencies
Ambulance (public hospitals)

811

EMS (emergency medical services)

624-4343 (north Trinidad)

653-4343 (south/central Trinidad)
639-4444 (Tobago)
Hyperbaric medical facility
(decompression chamber, Roxborough, Tobago) 660-4369
Fire 990
Office of Disaster Preparedness

640-1285 (Trinidad)

660-7489 (Tobago)
511 in emergencies
Police: in Trinidad

999 or 555

in Tobago 639-2520 or 639-5590

Visitor information
Division of Tourism, Tobago

639-2125, www.visittobago.gov.tt

Immigration Division

625-3571/2 (Trinidad), 639-2681 (Tobago)

www.immigration.gov.tt
Tobago House of Assembly

639-3421, www.tha.gov.tt

Tourism Development Company

675-7034, www.tdc.co.tt,

www.gotrinidadandtobago.com
Tourist information offices 639-0509 (ANR Robinson Airport, Tobago)
635-0934 (Cruise Ship Complex, Tobago)
669-5196 (Piarco Airport, Trinidad)
Trinidad & Tobago government online

www.ttconnect.gov.tt

www.discovertnt.com

9

Our country
Capital

Population

National capital: Port of Spain

1.3 million, descended from Africa, India, Europe,

Tobago capital: Scarborough

China, the Mediterranean and the Middle East

Climate

History

Tropical, with a dry(ish) season from Janu-

Pre-Columbian: the islands have been settled

ary to May and a wetter season from June to

since around 5,000 BC, originally by Amer-

December. The islands are just south of the

indians travelling up the island chain from

main hurricane belt, though they have been

South America

hit by hurricanes in the past (most recently by

Colonial: Columbus claimed Trinidad for

Flora in 1963, which passed over Tobago). The

Spain in 1498, but it remained a neglected

daily temperature range is 72-95°F (22-35°C),

backwater until the late 18th century, the ar-

with an average of 83°F (29°C)

rival of French Catholic settlers, and seizure by

Location & coordinates

the British in 1797. Tobago was fought over by

11°N, 61°W. Tobago and Trinidad are 33km (21
miles) apart; Trinidad is 10km (7 miles) from
Venezuela at the nearest point

several European powers before becoming a
British colony. It joined Trinidad at the end of
the 19th century
Modern: Trinidad & Tobago became inde-

Size

pendent in 1962, and a republic within the

Trinidad: 4,828km2 (1,864 sq miles); 105 x

Commonwealth in 1976. It is a parliamentary

80km (65 x 50 miles)

democracy holding regular free elections. To-

2

Tobago: 300km (116 sq miles); 48 x 16km

bago has a separate House of Assembly

(30 x 10 miles)

Economy

Time zone

Major resources: oil and natural gas

Atlantic Standard Time year-round (GMT/UTC

Major industries: LNG, steel, methanol, am-

-4, EST +1)

monia, urea, light manufacturing and assembly

Official language
English

Major services: tourism, conference and convention facilities, financial services, construction
Indicators: GDP per capita US$20,400 (2012),
unemployment 5.3% (2012), est. GDP growth
in 2014: 2.5% (IMF)

10

January
Monday

6

13

20

27

21

28

New Year’s Day

Tuesday

Friends old and new; par-

7

ties great and small. The

14

good-luck dish for bringing

Wednesday

1

Thursday

in the new year is our pelau
with black-eyed peas.

2

8

15

22

29

9

16

23

30

New Year’s
Day *

Chinese New Year
It’s the Year of the Horse.

Friday

Celebrations last 15 days

31

and culminate in the

Chinese

Lantern Festival.

Saturday

Carnival

Sunday

New Year

Sailing

season

Damien Luk Pat

begins

12 Calendar

season
begins
* Public Holiday

Monday

3

Tuesday

February
10

4
11
Tobago Carnival

17

24

18

25

19

26

Regatta
Held at Pigeon Point,

Wednesday

it’s also known as the

5
12
“festival of wind”. It is
a combination of four
sailing categories: Opti-

Thursday

Carnival

Friday

Tobago

Saturday

1

Sunday

mists and Bum Boat sail-

2

season

dynamic windsurf and

continues

27

ing, as well as the more
kite surfing classes.

28

Carnival
Caravan
Soca
Monarch

* Public Holiday

Radical Sports Tobago

Finals

discovertnt.com 13

Monday

Trinidad

4

& Tobago

Carnival

Golf Open

Tuesday

3

10

Carnival

17

24

Phagwa

Monday

Tobago

5

11

12

18

25

Carnival Monday and
Tuesday
19
26
Lap and all the music and mas

Game

in between, the biggest party of
the year is on.

Thursday

national
Fishing

Friday

From J’ouvert morning to Las

Turtle nest-

Saturday

Inter-

1

Sunday

Wednesday

31

Tuesday

March

2

Tournament

ing season

Chris Anderson

begins

Panorama
Finals

9

16

23

30 Spiritual

Dimanche

Shouter Baptist

Gras

Liberation Day *

14 Calendar

* Public Holiday

April
Monday

21
Easter

Tuesday

Monday *

Easter Weekend 29
22
The long Easter weekend
brings horse racing at the Santa

Wednesday

Rosa track in Arima in Trinidad,

23
30
and goat and crab races in Mt
Pleasant in Tobago, on Monday
and Buccoo on Tuesday.
Edison Boodoosingh

Thursday
Friday
Saturday
Sunday

28

4

11

18

24

Tobago Jazz
Experience

25

Jazz on
the Beach

Good
Friday *

5 Jazz

12

19

26

Artists on

Point Fortin
Borough Day

the Green

6

13

20

27

Easter
Sunday
* Public Holiday

discovertnt.com 15

May

Thursday

Maypole

6

Festival

Rainbow

Ariann Thompson

Wednesday

Tuesday

Monday

5

7

Cup International

La Divina Pastora

Triathlon

Pilgrims from all over the country wor-

8
La Divina

prayers, gifts, and a street procession.

Pastora

1

15 La Divina Pastora in Siparia 29
22
ship
with
Catholics recognise her as the Divine

2

9

16 pride ourselves on how well30
23
We
different cultures co-exist, and here it shows

Saturday

in a simple, moving ritual.

3

Sunday

Friday

Shepherdess, Hindus as Soparee Mai.

4

10

17

24

31 Indian
Arrival
Day *

16 Calendar

11

18

25

* Public Holiday

Monday

June
30

Labour Day9
2

16

23

June 19, 1937 was a landmark day for the trade union movement,
when police tried to arrest the firebrand labour leader Uriah “Buzz”

Thursday

Wednesday

Tuesday

Butler in Fyzabad in the face of huge grassroots defiance. That’s

We Beat

3 Labour Day 10
17
why
in Trinidad & Tobago is on June 1924 than
rather

Festival

the conventional May 1.

(St James)

4

11

St Peter’s Day
The sainted fisherman is celebrated in fishing villages across the

5

12

country with church services and
festivals. One of the biggest ones
is held in Carenage where there’s

18

25

19
Labour

26

Day &
Corpus
Christi *

27

28

29

Edison Boodoosingh

Saturday

more secular than religious.

Sunday

Friday

a full day of festivities, some

* Public Holiday

St Peter’s
Day

discovertnt.com 17

Monday

1

7

Tobago Heri-

Tuesday

July
14

21

28

15

22

29

tage Festival
(date TBA)

Mango

5

Tobago Heritage
Festival
12
19

Café Moka

Wednesday
Thursday

31

Saturday

30

Friday

8

26

Festival

Tobago

Tobago’s premier festival

Great Fete

celebrates island folk

Weekend

Sunday

traditions in different

6

13 especially in food,
20
villages,

27

Eid-ul-

folklore, song, dance,
craft and storytelling.

18 Calendar

Fitr *
(date TBA)
* Public Holiday

Arima

Osun River Festival

Borough

Osun is the Orisha goddess of the river. She is

Day

also associated with love, beauty and courage.

Edison Boodoosingh

Wednesday

Tuesday

Monday

August

Saturday

Friday

Thursday

The Orisha community is not large (slavery was

Castara

7 conducive to the maintaining of traditions) 28
14
21
not

Fisher-

but worship in the African religions is becoming

man’s Fete

more visible.

1

8

15

22

29

23

30

Emancipation
Day *

2

Tobago Underwater
9
16
Carnival
A week-long dive festival: daily

Sunday

north and south reef-diving

3

10
17
24
expeditions, seminars and presen-

31

tations on best diving practice.

Independence
Day *

* Public Holiday

discovertnt.com 19

Monday

1

Tuesday

2

Wednesday

3

Thursday

September

4

8

Republic Day

15

22

29

The day in 1976 when T&T became a republic within
the Commonwealth, replacing the British monarch as
head of state with a president of its own choice. Public

9

16

23

parades, a presidential address, and one of Trinidad &

30

Tobago’s most significant horse racing events.

10

17

trinidad + tobago film
festival
The Caribbean’s second

11

18

largest film festival show-

cases shorts and full-length

24
Republic Day *

25

Maracas Open
Water Classic

productions from the
plus workshops and training
sessions, storytelling.

Sunday

Marlon James (courtesy ttff)

Saturday

Friday

region and the diaspora,

20 Calendar

* Public Holiday

Monday

October
Amer-

6

13

20

27

indian
Heritage

Ramleela

Tuesday

Day

7

This nine-day Hindu festival precedes
14
21

28

Divali, and re-enacts scenes from the life
of Lord Rama, the main figure of the epic

Wednesday

Ramayan. Large-scale Ramleela productions take place in Couva and Felicity in

29

Thursday

Central Trinidad.

30

Saturday

4

Sunday

Café Moka

Friday

31

5

11

18

25

Divali *
(date TBA)

* Public Holiday

12

19

26

discovertnt.com 21

November
10

17

24

Hosay
(date TBA)

Trinidad &
Tobago:
Pan is
Beautiful

Hosay

in October

Friday

XIII (starts

Hosay is of Islamic origin

and con-

7

14

Nicholas Laughlin

Thursday

Wednesday

Tuesday

Monday

3

21
28
(and controversial in some

tinues into

sections of the Muslim

November

community). It com-

Saturday

1

Sunday

memorates the martyrdom

2

8

15

22
of Hassan and Hussein,

29

grandsons of the Prophet
Mohammed.

9 Pan,

16

23

30

Parang &
Pork
22 Calendar

* Public Holiday

Tuesday

30

31

Edison Boodoosingh

Monday

29

Wednesday

December

Paramin Parang Festival

Thursday

The Venezuelan influenced music of

Old Year’s
Night

4 Christmas is played everywhere
11
18
T&T

25

from as early as October. The village of

Christmas Day *

Paramin, high in the hills of the Northern

5 producing some of the finest paren12
19
for

26

deros - the singers, cuatro players and

Boxing Day *

Sat

drummers who make the music.

6

Sun

Friday

Range, has a long-established reputation

7

13

20

27

Parang
music

14

21

28

everywhere

In many cases, firm dates are only announced close to the event. For up to date information, visit
the Discover Trinidad & Tobago or Tourism Development Company websites:
(www.discovertnt.com, www.gotrinidadandtobago.com)
* Public Holiday

discovertnt.com 23

ADVERTORIAL

Five Tips for Planning
your International
Meeting in Trinidad
and Tobago
Arguably one of the most business friendly destinations in
the Caribbean, Trinidad and Tobago is the perfect location for
international meetings. The destination’s expanding portfolio
of hotels and meeting facilities are amply complemented
by an attractive capital city with historic buildings, a modern waterfront and a diverse leisure
product, including health spas, golfing, bird watching, spectacular reefs, glorious rainforests, majestic
mangroves, friendly people and enough festivals and excitement to make any visit unforgettable.
Perfectly facilitating this buzzing destination is the Trinidad and Tobago Convention Bureau, which
provides international meeting planners with all the expertise and local knowledge required for the
execution of flawless events.
A one-stop-shop for meeting planners, the Convention Bureau provides unbiased and professional
advice and support, along with offering customised solutions that meet the specific needs of an event
or group.

• Top 5 Destination Tips for Meeting Planners •
Be Informed
Contact the Trinidad and Tobago Convention Bureau to
start familiarising yourself with Trinidad and Tobago as
a meeting and event location. The Convention Bureau
can provide comprehensive information about meeting
space and conference facilities in Trinidad and Tobago,
as well as flights, transportation and tour options.

Get an Insider’s View
To get a feel for the available venues and experience
the tour offerings as well as sites and attractions, it is
advisable to plan a site visit. The Convention Bureau
can coordinate and arrange site visits for meeting
planners. We can also arrange tailor-made tours by
working closely with the Trinidad and Tobago Incoming
Tour Operators Association and assist in finding local
speakers and other resources.

Get Connected
While email is quick, interpersonal communication
via telephone is often a more effective way to get the
ball rolling. The dedicated people at the Convention

Bureau are ready to chat with you and are always
responsive to enquires. We can also provide contacts,
introductions and comprehensive destination
information, in addition to assisting with marketing
and advertising.

Think about Accommodation
After you have determined the venue which best suits
your meeting or event, the Convention Bureau can
assist in sourcing a wide range of accommodation
options, from internationally branded chains to
intimate boutique hotels, and bed and breakfast
properties. We can also facilitate the RFP process and
act as a liaison between meeting planners and hotels.

Get Ready for a Great Time
Pre and post event, Trinidad and Tobago has amazing
entertainment and attractions, from thrilling ecoexperiences to sumptuous exotic culinary fare and the
Caribbean’s biggest Carnival. The Convention Bureau
can help meeting planners and groups enjoy the
destination’s best experiences.

To learn more about hosting your event in this exciting Caribbean destination, contact the Trinidad & Tobago Convention
Bureau at: conventionbureau@tdc.co.tt or visit www.gotrinidadandtobago.com/trinidad/meetings

Plan Trinidad & Tobago – your clients will love you for it.
24 Trinidad

Trinidad &Tobago

World Meets

where the

• Two Islands,
Two Unique Experiences
• World Class Facilities
• Spectacular sites and
attractions
• Idyllic Tobago

www.tdc.co.tt

Contact Info: (868) 675-7034/7 E-mail: conventionbureau@tdc.co.tt Website: gotrinidadandtobago.com/trinidad/meetings

www.discovertnt.com 25

Aaron Richards

We are limers

I

t’s strange that the word “lime”, as it is used in Trinidad & Tobago, up the islands and through
the diaspora, is absent from most of the world’s leading dictionaries (New Oxford American

excepted). “Liming” is doing anything at all in company. Its closest English-language equivalent is
the American “hanging out”. You can lime with one person on a trip downtown to buy new shoes.
You can lime with a group of friends at a party (where you will meet new people with whom to
lime). You can lime cosily over coffee at a café.
The main thing to keep in mind is the spirit of the thing: an unquestioned acceptance that
things are more fun when done with some congenial others, with room for spontaneity. It is not,
as some have suggested, the art of doing nothing. Far from it. It is how to turn any and everything
you do into an opportunity for a good time.

Night liming
Ariapita Avenue runs through the middle of Woodbrook, a once genteel sort of residential area
west of Port of Spain. On the Avenue at least, all pretence of quiet family life has been quite lost.
The entire strip is lined with bars, restaurants, street food and very, very trendy crowds out for a
night of partying and liming. Once it’s not raining, chances are there’ll be as much going on on
the sidewalk as in the bar.

26 Trinidad

Not five minutes away, the Western Main Road in

Important: If you’ve rented

St James offers a less shnazz but even more populous

a car, be sure to obey park-

liming area. Here the bars are more functional than fancy:

ing guidelines or risk being

you want a drink, they sell drinks. St James if our official-

towed by the police.

unofficial city-that-never-sleeps. The music is loud, the
carousing is of the gritty variety, the street food is the best
in the country.
And. Everyone. Goes. There.
You’ll run into everyone from the person you bought fruit from that morning to ministers of state.
Out of Port of Spain, it’s harder to find dedicated liming zones. In San Fernando and Chaguanas, for instance, in south and central Trinidad respectively, there are clubs and restaurants
aplenty but not concentrated in one area. So too in St Augustine and Trincity in the east. Over the
past few years, the night clubs of those areas have been upping their game, achieving a tough feat:
they’re getting Port of Spain partiers to head out of town for their entertainment.
Think about: live entertainment. Almost anywhere you go, you’ll find good music
and lots of variety. But a live band, local, and one that plays originals and not only cov-

Triniwaves

ers, is definitely a treat to look out for.


Top ten things to do
for free

Hit the beach
Most beaches in Trinidad and Tobago are public.

Carnival spirit
If you’re here for Carnival, listen to

If you’re in Tobago, you should be able to walk to
one. In Trinidad, you’ll need to work out transport.

the steelbands rehearsing in the panyards, watch the costumed bands on

Browsing

Monday and Tuesday; catch tradition- Frederick Street runs through the heart of Port of Spain
al Carnival characters appearing in and gives a fair idea of what you’ll find all over the island in
the week before Carnival. All for free.

shopping areas and malls. Plenty of local craft and handmade goods.

Birds and
butterflies

Visit a Hindu temple

Trinidad has a staggering number Those in central Trinidad have become quite grand. The
of birds and butterflies. Drive up to one on Ethel Street in St James was the first in the counMount St Benedict in Tunapuna and try to be built with actual architectural plans. For some
walk the grounds or the butterfly fine colonial architecture, look out for Anglican and
trail.

28 Trinidad

Catholic cathedrals and churches.

Discover the artists
Port of Spain has some good private, commercial
art galleries, often showing work by leading painters, sculptors and jewellers. The National Museum
and Art Gallery has some treasures too, but the
space itself is not in excellent condition.

Weavers of the Dust. One of artist LeRoy Clarke’s
most famous paintings. More work from the Master Artist can be seen at DE LEGACY... HOUSE
OF EL TUCUCHE. It’s in Wellsprings, Cascade,
just outside of Port of Spain. Clarke himself often
shows you around while discussing all things art.

Queen’s Park
Savannah
Walk, ride, or run around the Queen’s

Alice Yard

Park Savannah in Port of Spain.

On Roberts Street in Woodbrook, this is a contemporary Nearby, the Botanical Gardens and
arts/performance space and network, and there’s usu- the row of eclectic, eccentric buildally something interesting going on there.

ings called the Magnificent Seven.

www.aliceyard.blogspot.com or

Hot work maybe – have a coconut or

www.facebook.com/aliceyard

sno-cone for recovery. Or both.

Yachts at anchor

William Barrow

Check the calendar
for celebrations
and festivals
It’s a rare week when there’s
nothing happening, secular or
religious, day or night. Carnival,

Chaguaramas

Divali, Hosay, Emancipation Day,

The Chaguaramas peninsula, west of Port of Spain, has

various Borough Days, Indepen-

a new waterside boardwalk. Find out what the “bamboo

dence and Republic Days. You

cathedral” is, or walk to Edith Falls from the car park of the

can often catch live music at

golf course; check out the marinas and enjoy the breeze

various clubs and bars (check the

off the sea and the boats at anchor.

daily papers).

30 Trinidad

Maria Nunes

We are Carnival
C

arnival is excessive, expressive, and full of glorious abandon. Like those in Brazil and
Venice, it’s premised on the idea of a grand romp before the austerity of the Christian

season of Lent. Once we’ve finished our Christmas feasting, our Carnival feting begins in earnest. In 2014, Carnival Monday and Tuesday fall on March 3-4; that gives us just over two months
to obsess over the season’s new calypso and soca tunes and fit in as many fetes as possible
before the two-day street parade.

F

etes are just huge parties by another name, but they provide the training you need to make
the most of the big days to come. You need to jump, wave and dance with thousands of

strangers in the comparative safety of the party zone before you can really lose your inhibitions
(and most of your clothes). From the mud, paint and cocoa of J’ouvert in the darkness of early
Monday morning, through the two days of street parades, to the frazzled, exhausted frenzy of
Las Lap on Tuesday night, you want to have as few inhibitions as possible.
While the glamorous tiny, sequined costumes rule the streets, there are still some “traditional” characters and events – swaggering Dames Lorraines, oratorical Midnight Robbers, prancing
fire-eating Blue Devils, Pierrots, Jab-Jabs. They’re worth

Below Kees Diffenthaler of Kes the Band.
Opposite page J’ouvert in full swing.

Triniwaves

looking out for.

32 Trinidad

Chris Anderson


Ryan Kong

www.trinidadcarnivaldiary.com

34 Trinidad

Thinking about it?

I

f you plan on playing mas, that is, getting a costume and being part of one of the parade
bands, you’ll find it’s simple. Most of the bigger and more popular masquerade bands now

have websites where you can view and buy costumes online. That goes for J’ouvert bands too.
Important note: While the main website photographs may be of the most va-va-voom, Brazilian-style
costumes, there are usually different versions on offer for each design. If you’re not ready for too much
self-exposure, look for the one-piece suits, the more demure two-piece ensembles and other options.

Carnival safety

I

f you’re going to take part in the festivities, recall all the things you know and practise as a
safety-conscious traveller and ramp them up a bit. It’s easy to get lost or lose something in a

hedonistic atmosphere involving large crowds. So stick with friends, pre-arrange meeting points
in case you become separated, don’t carry wads of money or wear easily detachable valuables
at parties or on the road. Take care of that expensive camera, and don’t forget about your surroundings completely, or the people nearby. Helpful checklists appear in the daily papers on

Triniwaves

how to have a safe Carnival without sacrificing the fun.


Glossary of terms
Dimanche Gras

Tuesday. They follow a set route (more or less).

Carnival Sunday night’s big show tradi-

Monday starts late and is basically a warm-up;

tionally sees the crowning of the Calypso

Tuesday starts early, and that’s when the full

Monarch and the King and Queen of the Band

costumes come out

(but new formats are being tried out)

Pretty mas
J’ouvert

Bands with costumes of bikini-and-beads and

The official start of Carnival. Covered in mud,

strategically placed feathers. The term distin-

paint, oil or cocoa, the masses take to the

guishes them from other types of mas (“sailor

streets from as early as 4am on Carnival Mon-

mas”, traditional mas”, “mud mas”)

day morning

Soca Monarch
Las Lap

This competition has overshadowed the long-

Carnival officially ends at midnight on Tues-

established Calypso Monarch contest. The

day. Once the day’s formal parade and

faster rhythms of today’s dance music draw

competition are over, bands can roam

fanatical audiences as the singers pull out all

where they want, for the sheer joy of it,

the stops for this highlight of the season

until the clocks strike 12

Traditional mas
Mas

A cast of familiar costumed characters (stock

Short for “masquerade”

figures as in commedia dell’arte). Long before
the arrival of the pretty mas bands, the Mid-

Panorama

night Robber, Dame Lorraine and Pierrot Gre-

Steelbands of all sizes, from all over the coun-

nade provided the theatre of the streets

try, compete here for the most coveted title
on the pannist’s calendar

Wining
To “wine” is to dance, but deploying hips and

Parade of the Bands

waist more than feet. It is a mild gyration at its

The procession of large and small costumed

tamest, blatantly sexual at the other end of the

bands on the streets on Carnival Monday and

spectrum

36 Trinidad

Ryan Kong


ER - IS
INT
L

ER - I S
INT
L

LTD

TR

.

AN

SP
O
OR
TATION C

Quality Service

Family

Vacation
38 Trinidad

.

SP
O
OR
TATION C
ND
A

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T&

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Ferry Service

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Trinidad & Tobago Inter-Island

AN

T

We Celebrate
Panorama
Finals (February)
The climax of the steelband
year: the cream of the crop
battle it out in furious
competition for the title of

Courtesy CAL Invaders Steel Orchestra

Panorama Champions.

Soca Monarch Finals (February)
This annual double-header takes place on Carnival Friday (“Fantastic Friday”) and showcases
soca artists from around the region vying for two different titles: Power Soca Monarch and
Groovy Soca Monarch.


Phagwa (March)
The Hindu spring festival, also
known as Holi. Participants
douse one another in colourful vegetable dyes known
as abir. Traditional folksongs
called chowtals are sung to the
pulsating rhythms of dholak

Nicholas Laughlin

drums.

Spiritual Shouter Baptist Liberation Day
(March – public holiday)
A celebration of religious freedom. On this day in 1951, the colonial Shouters Prohibition Ordinance of 1917 was repealed: it had outlawed the activities of the Shouter or Spiritual Baptists.

Tobago Jazz Experience (April)
Tobago’s biggest annual music event; a musical odyssey across the island, from Speyside to
Signal Hill, Scarborough to Castara, ending at the Pigeon Point Heritage Park. Though billed as
a jazz concert, it is a truly eclectic blend, embracing calypso, soca, chutney, latin and contemporary as well as jazz. Usually held during the last week of April. Past headliners include Sting,
Chaka Khan, Erykah Badu, Elton John, Stevie Wonder, Mary J. Blige, India.Arie, Diana Ross and
Dionne Warwick.

40 Trinidad

las La
ughlin

NGC Bocas Lit Fest:
The Trinidad & Tobago
Literary Festival (April)
This annual literary festival at the end of the month

Nicho

brings together readers, writers and publishers for
a four-day celebration of books and writing, with
readings, performers, workshops and discussions.

Indian Arrival Day
(May – public holiday)
Until the 1830s, agricultural estates
were worked by imported African
slaves. After emancipation, colonial
Britain solved the labour crisis by importing over 140,000 labourers from
India between 1845 and 1917. This
holiday marks their first landing in
and Indian descendants each account
for about 35% of the population.

Arianne Thompson

Trinidad. Nearly 170 years later, African

Ganga Dhaara Festival (June)
The main observances happen at the Marianne River, but the trek starts in the Blanchisseuse
forest in the pre-dawn darkness. Lit deyas in prayer boats made of coconut fibre are floated
along the mountain river. Devotees, mostly dressed in yellow, stand in the water or line the
banks or stony hillocks.


We Beat Festival (June)
Centered around the Western Main Road in St James, featuring vintage kaiso (calypso), talent
shows and a steelband parade at the end. Most of these events take place at the St James Amphitheatre.

Corpus Christi (June – public holiday)
The feast of Corpus Christi (Latin for “body of Christ”) is celebrated by Catholics in honour of the
sacramental Eucharist, with a procession in downtown Port of Spain.

Santa Rosa Festival (July)
The Amerindian (First Peoples) community in Arima remembers its long (and not always happy)
relationship with the Roman Catholic church; the event is named after Santa Rosa de Lima,
the first Catholic saint in the “new world”. There’s a church procession, highlighting the Carib
Queen, with music and entertainment including parang competitions and traditional preparation of cassava bread.

Eid-ul-Fitr
(July – public holiday)
This Islamic holiday signals the end of
the holy month of Ramadan. Muslim families gather for prayer in mosques and large,
open air spaces, followed by the greeting
and exchange of gifts and good wishes
between worshippers. The date may vary
slightly according to circumstances. About
Edison Boodoosingh

5% of the national population is Muslim.

42 Trinidad

Divali (October –
public holiday)
The simplest things can create the most arresting sights. Small clay bowls known as
and displayed in their thousands in homes,
mandirs and public spaces for the Hindu
“festival of lights”. The tiny flames symbolise the victory of righteous forces over evil.
Hindus, representing over 18% of the population, perform religious ceremonies in worship of Lakshmi, the goddess of light and
prosperity.

Hosay (November)
Hosay is of Islamic origin, though its religiosity is heavily debated within the Muslim community.
It commemorates the martyrdom of Hassan and Hussein, grandsons of the Prophet Mohammed, and is principally observed in St James, though processions can also be seen in Cedros
and Curepe. Tadjahs, ornamented replicas of Hussein’s tomb, are carried through the streets to
the rhythmic accompaniment of tassa drumming.


Ariann Thompson

deyas are filled with oil, lit by cotton wicks,

We’d like to show
you ...
Around Port of Spain
Uptown
The Queen’s Park Savannah is the city’s green heart, the haunt of everyone from cricketers
and footballers to joggers and kite-flyers. On the northern side are the Emperor Valley Zoo,
the Botanical Gardens, and the President’s House, now being renovated. On the western
side are “the Magnificent Seven”, a quirky mix of historic buildings, several in dire need of
restoration. From south to north they are, Queen’s Royal College; Hayes Court (home
to the Anglican bishop); Milles Fleurs; Roomor (privately owned); the Roman Catholic
archbishop’s house; Whitehall (formerly the Prime Minister’s office); and Killarney or
Stollmeyer’s Castle.
The National Academy of Performing Arts, with its multiple stages and performance
spaces lies just to the south of the Savannah. The much older (but beautifully renovated)
Stollmeyer’s Castle

Martin Farinha

Queen’s Hall is at the Savannah’s northeast corner.


Downtown
The Brian Lara Promenade runs
east-west down the middle of
Independence Square, the focal
point of downtown Port of Spain.
At the western end, it borders the
waterfront and ferry terminal; at the
eastern end is the (Roman Catholic) Cathedral of the Immaculate
Conception, where our many ethnicities are depicted in the stained
Ryan Kong

glass.
A few blocks to the north is
Woodford Square, laid out by a British colonial governor nearly 200 years ago. Traditionally used for political rallies, it is bordered by
the Red House (the customary seat of parliament, now being renovated), the Hall of Justice (law
courts), the National Library and the (Anglican) Holy Trinity Cathedral.

Beyond the capital
Asa Wright Nature Centre & Lodge
Nestled in the hills at the head of the Arima valley, this 193-acre eco-centre and former estate house
is a world-renowned study centre and guesthouse where visitors can see a huge variety of bird life.
Originally a cocoa and coffee plantation, it was bought by an Englishman, Dr Newcombe Wright,
and his Icelandic wife Asa in 1947, and acquired two years later by the New York Zoological Society
as a research station. After her husband’s death, Mrs Wright sold the land on condition that it remained a conservation area; a non-profit trust was set up in 1967.
The Centre provides guided tours, nature trails, bird watching, a plunge pool, restaurant, and gift
shop. The veranda has fantastic views down the Armia Valley, and is a great place for bird photography. The restaurant serves good local cuisine (reservations recommended). Visit www.asawright.org for more information.

46 Trinidad

Top Fountain in Woodford Square.
Opposite page, clockwise from top
Red-rumped agouti; green honeycreeper;
blue-backed manakin; spectacled caiman,
southern tamandua, tufted cocquette.

Faraaz Abdul

www.discovertnt.com


Chaguaramas National Heritage Park
Chaguaramas is a playground for nature-lovers and eco-adventurers: hiking trails, historic
landmarks, a military museum, golf course, restaurants, marinas, waterfalls, beaches (including the popular Macqueripe), land sports (cycling, hashing, mountain biking), water
sports (kayaking, sailing, yachting, power boating, dragon-boat racing), and boats to the
offshore islands. A recently constructed boardwalk starts at Williams Bay, and there are bike
trails, gazebos for cooking, liming spots, rest areas, roller-blading and fishing. Zip lining is a
new experience for Trinidad – the lines overlook the peninsula, both coast and forest – and
it’s catching on fast.
Offshore, the 30m (98ft) deep limestone Gasparee Caves on Gaspar Grande island are
breathtakingly beautiful. Tours are arranged with registered tour guides, or the ChaguaraChaguaramas was a US military base during
World War II, a signal station in the hills and several
buildings survive from that time.

48 Trinidad

This page This abandoned house on
the island of Chacachacare was the
living quarters for the doctor caring for
patients at the leprosarium on the island.
Rumoured to be haunted.

William Barrow

mas Development Authority.

Banwari Trace

Chaguanas

The oldest pre-Columbian site in the West In-

Home of traditional Indian pottery, and the

dies, on the southern shore of the Oropouche

site of Nobel laureate VS Naipaul’s childhood

Lagoon south of San Fernando, dating to

home, Lion House.

about 5,000 BC. Excavations have unearthed
far recovered anywhere in the Caribbean. The

Devil’s Woodyard Mud
Volcano

site probably represents one of the first settle-

Near Princes Town, and not as terrifying as

ments established by the Caribbean’s First

its name suggests (European settlers weren’t

People as they emigrated northwards from

sure how to explain the bubbling and rum-

South America into the Caribbean islands.

bling), this is one of many small mud vol-

stone tools and the earliest human skeleton so

canoes in the southland. Mud volcanoes

Fort George
Driving west out of Port of Spain, you’ll
see this colonial-era signal station on
the crest of a ridge 335m (1,100ft) above
the city (access from St James). Can-

emit hot mud through a vent or fissure,
propelled by methane or other gases below
the surface. Though usually quiet, the Devil’s
Woodyard can occasionally produce large
muddy eruptions.

nons, a small museum, and magnificent

William Barrow

panoramic views of the west coast.


Divali Nagar Centre

Galera Point, Toco

The Divali Nagar site just north of Chaguanas

A magnificent headland marks the northeast-

is the venue for many Hindu activities and

ern tip of Trinidad, where the navy-blue Atlan-

performances – lectures, Indian trade fairs,

tic meets the electric-blue Caribbean Sea.

cultural shows, Divali celebrations. A 12m
(39ft) statue of Swami Vivekananda keeps a
watchful eye over the area.

Hanuman Temple &
Dattatreya Yoga Centre
The distinctive 26m (85ft) statue of the Hindu

Lopinot

god Hanuman near Carapichaima is the tall-

In the Northern Range foothills, Lopinot

est of its kind outside India, and towers over

was once a cocoa estate. Now there is

the Yoga Centre and mandir.

a small museum in the former estate
house, near the old slave quarters and

La Vega Garden Centre

prison. The estate was developed by

This estate in Gran Couva, home to a range of

the Compte de Lopinot, who fled Haiti

plants and trees, is popular for picnics, kayak-

for Trinidad after the 1791 Haitian revo-

ing, and outdoor activities.

lution (and is said to appear on stormy
nights astride a white horse – Lopinot
was featured on the popular US television show Ghost Hunters International).
The area is now popular for sports, river
bathing, cave exploration, and parang

William Barrow

music around Christmas time.

50 Trinidad

Mount St Benedict Church
& Monastery

Point Lisas

Perched 240m (800ft) up in the Northern Range

sprawls along the west coast near Couva,

above St Augustine and Tunapuna, the oldest

housing an international port and a range

Benedictine monastery in the Caribbean offers

of plants fuelled by the country’s own

panoramic views of the Caroni plains and be-

natural gas; it produces steel and petro-

yond. Built in 1912, its 600 acres support nature

chemicals (methanol, ammonia, urea) and

trails, an art gallery and studio, a gift shop, and

a range of downstream products. Guided

a guesthouse and café, as well as the central

tours available.

Trinidad’s first major industrial complex

church. The monks produce excellent yoghurt
and honey.

Pointe-à-Pierre Wild
Fowl Trust

National Science Centre

A magnificent 25-hectare (62-acre) sanc-

On the southern side of the highway to Arima,

tuary and breeding centre for endangered

hands-on science exhibitions for both adults

waterfowl, with a learning centre and

and children.

eco-lodge. It is actually hidden away on
the grounds of the oil refinery at Pointe-à-

Northern Range

Pierre, so you need to make reservations.

This range is a continuation of one branch of

Visit www.papwildfowltrust.org.

the great South American cordilleras, rising
to over 914m (3,000ft) into elfin woodland

San Fernando Hill

at El Tucuche and Cerro del Aripo. Well worth

In the middle of Trinidad’s second city, San

exploring, but you’ll need a good guide. The

Fernando, this hill is a national park, despite

Heights of Guanapo, the Guanapo Gorge, and

being badly scarred by quarrying. It has

the Sombasson and La Laja waterfalls are big

magnificent views of the city, the Gulf of

attractions. Large colonies of bats and oil birds

Paria, the Caroni Plains and Northern Range.

inhabit the Aripo Caves.

Picnic huts and a children’s play area.

Pitch Lake
A slowly-churning lake of natural bitumen, covering about half a square kilometre, at La Brea.
Natural springs, said to have healing properties, appear at its centre during the rainy season.
Most of the surface is hard enough to walk on. A small museum houses some (sometimes
bizarre) artefacts that have been recovered from the pitch.

Temple in the Sea,
Waterloo
A Hindu temple built literally in the sea
a short way offshore, accessible by a
causeway. Indian indentured labourer
Siewdass Sadhu toiled for decades to
build it after being forbidden to build
on colonial land.

Turtle watching
Trinidad’s northeast coast (like
southwest Tobago’s) is among the
world’s most important turtle nest-

William Barrow

ing grounds. During nesting months
(March-August), from mid-evening
through early morning, female turtles – endangered leatherbacks as
well as hawksbill, green and occa-

Swamplands

sional loggerheads and olive ridleys – heave

The Caroni Bird Sanctuary is an extensive

themselves out of the ocean and crawl up

area of lagoon, marshland and swamp on the

the beach. Laboriously, they dig nests in the

northwest coast. The highlight: flocks of rare

sand and deposit their eggs, carefully camou-

scarlet ibis flying home to roost each evening

flaging the spot. Two months later, the eggs

at dusk – an unforgettable sight. Boat tours

hatch, and the baby turtles make a dash for

last a couple of hours from late afternoon to

the sea; few survive the predators and make

dusk (though T&T Sightseeing Tours operates

it to maturity. Grande Rivière and Matura are

tours all day). On the opposite side, the east

both popular and protected beaches.

coast, the Nariva Swamp & Bush-Bush Wildlife
Sanctuary is the largest swamp in either island.
You’ll need a guide and permit to explore it by
kayak for a glimpse of manatees in their natural habitat, anacondas, caimans, and bird life.

52 Trinidad

Note: permits are required, and can be arranged by tour
operators and hotels. Go with a guide, and give nesting turtles lots of space, especially during the digging and covering
process. Do not touch or in any way disturb them – lights
and activity can disorient turtles and hatchlings. Don’t
pick up hatchlings or impede their progress to the sea, and
don’t drive on nesting beaches, as vehicles can crush
whole clutches of eggs hidden in the sand.

We are hikers
O

f all the out-doorsy things you can do in Trinidad & Tobago, hiking is one of the best.
Much like the country, hikes can accommodate almost everyone, from the gentle soul

who’s looking for equally gentle terrain to the most intrepid, bring-it-on types.

Comfortable rambles for beginners
Edith Falls (Chaguaramas, northwestern peninsula)
The trail is well marked by the Chaguaramas Development Authority. Ideal for novice hikers, it
reveals a broad range of local flora and fauna, culminating in a breath-taking view of the 250foot (76-metre) falls. Estimated completion time: 30 minutes at a leisurely pace.
Rio Seco (Salybia, northeast coast)
Complete with a fine natural swimming pool, these falls are part of Matura National Park. The
trail paths are largely shaded by mora rainforest canopy. Estimated completion time: 45-60 min-

William Barrow

utes, trekking casually.


William Barrow

Maracas Waterfalls (Maracas/St Joseph Valley, north Trinidad)
The trail leads through rich forest scene to Trinidad’s tallest waterfall, towering 299 feet (91 metres) high. Estimated completion time: 30-45 minutes,
meandering peaceably.

For the intermediate hiker
Turure Water Steps (Cumaca, northeast Trinidad)
Natural limestone provides safe paths for exploration. The hike ends in bathing pools beside the Water Steps themselves: the unique rock face delights
budding geologists. Estimated completion time: an hour, at a steady pace.

For seasoned hikers only!
Saut d’Eau (Paramin, northwest Trinidad)
Veterans love the challenge of this gruelling trek: a high-altitude start leads
steeply down to an expanse of secluded beachfront. The uphill return is truly
not for the faint of heart. Estimated completion time: three blood-pumping
hours, there and back again.

54 Trinidad

Marianne Hosein

We’re at the beach

From Port of Spain
Maracas Bay

Other choices

The top choice for those in Port of Macqueripe: small and secluded, on the north coast
Spain. A beautiful semi-enclosed of the Chaguaramas peninsula, 20 minutes from town;
bay, 40 minutes from town along some of the best swimming and snorkelling in Trinidad.
the scenic North Coast Road. The Parking and changing room facilities, small entrance fee
water can generate strong currents. Tyrico: right next door to Maracas (at the eastern end),
Parking, basic facilities, hotel and and usually quieter
gas station nearby. Vendors sell local Las Cuevas: a short drive beyond Maracas, with good
food, including the signature dish, bathing, calmer water, and small caves at the far end.
bake and shark. However, with the Snack bar, car park, tables, benches, lifeguards, changshark population on the decline, you ing rooms with showers and toilets
might consider trying some of the Blanchisseuse: a popular weekend getaway at the
other offerings like catfish, kingfish, end of the north coast road, about an hour from Port
cheese or shrimp. Have a sandwich, of Spain. Hiking trails, guesthouses and holiday homes,
save a shark!

kayaking on the Marianne River that flows into the bay

Mayaro
The longest beach in the
island stretches for miles

Other choices

along the Atlantic coast,

Manzanilla: the northern extension of Mayaro: the road

great for walks; noted for its

wanders through coconut plantation (the Cocal) along

“chip chip” (small, suppos-

the shore. A few guesthouses and holiday homes for

edly aphrodisiac molluscs

rent nearby; some facilities at the northern end, and life-

buried in the sand), and

guards in some areas

fishermen bringing in their

Balandra: sheltered, good for swimming, even body-

catch, called “pulling seine”,

surfing at the rougher end of the bay

in the evening. Popular for

Matura: rough water, but between March and August this

long weekends (it’s 90-

is a popular and important leatherback turtle nesting site

120 minutes from Port of

Paria: turtles also come ashore in season at this pristine

Spain) and public holidays;

bay, accessible only by hiking or by boat; waterfalls and

vacation homes and guest-

rocky pools nearby.

houses. The currents and

Saline (“Sally”) Bay: not to be confused with Salybia

undertow can be surpris-

Bay further north: good for swimming, with clear water

ingly strong, so take serious

and facilities on site

care in the water.

Salybia: a popular bay for surfing (November-April); good

Above Easter holidayers camping on
the beach

swimming between June and September. Fringing reef off

56 Trinidad

the eastern end, unusual for Trinidad; beach facilities

Nicholas Bhajan

The east coast

The northeast coast
Grande Rivière

Other choices

Small, friendly north-coast fishing village, two

Sans Souci: between Toco and Grande

hours or more from Port of Spain, perfect for

Rivière, a slightly sloping bay with choppy

a weekend getaway. Its placid main beach is a

waves, a favourite with surfers

major leatherback turtle nesting ground. Good
bird watching, river bathing, hiking and kayaking; hotels, guesthouses and cottages for rent.

The south & southwest
Vessigny Beach

Granville Beach: a lengthy stretch of sand,

Quiet during the week (usually), and a week-

shallow water at low tide. Popular at weekends

end venue for beach parties and excursions.

and for post-Carnival cool-down parties. The

Changing rooms, picnic tables.

road to the beach is an adventure in itself – but
have faith, keep following the signs

Other choices

Columbus & Cedros Bays: on the southwestern peninsula, a longish drive from Port
of Spain, but both are irresistible in good
weather. Cedros has the widest beach on the
island at low tide. Good views of the southwest coast and, on clear days, neighbouring
Venezuela. No facilities but, this being Trinidad, there are food and drink establishments
nearby

Aisha Provoteaux

Quinam: the most popular south coast
beach, about a mile long. Calm water good
for swimming, and the sand is fine and
Lifeguards are typically on duty 9am-5pm or 10am-6pm,
but not at all beaches. Red flags indicate unsafe bathing
areas. Sunscreen and insect repellent are essential –
tropical sun can quickly give a bad burn, even through
cloud, and mosquito-born illnesses like dengue fever are still
health threats.

brown, though it disappears at high tide. A
favourite for family weekend outings; trails
into the woods


We are contenders
A

part from games which require a temperate climate, we dabble in just about anything
involving a ball, net or finish line. Here are some of our favourites.

Athletics

courts can attest. The Jean Pierre Complex (Port

The big local events are the annual Hamp-

of Spain) and the Sport & Physical Education

ton Games at the Hasely Crawford Stadium

Centre (St Augustine) are the main venues, with

in Port of Spain and the Southern Games

others in Maloney, Point Fortin and Pleasantville.

at Guaracara Park, Pointe-à-Pierre. There

Cycling

are 45 athletics clubs across the country;
the presiding body is the National Amateur
Athletics Association.

We’ve been avid cycling fans for a long
time, and the Easter International Grand
Prix is one of the most eagerly anticipated

Basketball

events on the sport calendar. Other ma-

Over the years we have supplied several play-

jor events are the Tobago Cycling Clas-

ers to professional NBA teams. It’s popular with

sic, the Rainbow Cup Triathlon, West

youngsters at high school level and with ama-

Indies vs. the World, and the National Champi-

teurs of all ages, as constantly crowded public

onships. The Queen’s Park Savannah and the
Arima Velodrome are prime venues.

Dragon boat racing
This 2,000-year-old sport is catching
on in both islands, with several clubs
following rigorous regimes to compete internationally. Competitions
are held at local beaches in both
Trinidad & Tobago, where thousands

Edison Boodoosingh

of athletes and supporters enjoy the

58 Trinidad

weather and the competition.
Trinidad & Tobago Dragon Boat
Federation: www.ttdbf.webs.com

WICB Media/www.windiescricket.com

www.ttcb.co.tt

Cricket

Enormously popular here and throughout the West
Indies, with an intense rivalry between islands. The
relatively recent T20 format and the Caribbean Premier League have pumped new life and excitement
into the sport. The Queen’s Park Oval in Port of
Spain is a beautiful venue for international Tests and
One-Day Internationals, and has been the home of
the Queen’s Park Cricket Club since 1891.


Golf
Trinidad has three 18-hole courses, at
St Andrew’s Golf Club in Moka, Millen-

Horse racing

nium Lakes in Trincity, and the Pointe-à-

Every weekend hundreds gather at the Santa

Pierre Golf Club at the Petrotrin refinery

Rosa Park near Arima to gamble, frolic and

near San Fernando. There are nine-hole

generally have a great time – a pretty good

courses at Brechin Castle, Usine St Mad-

reflection of our culture on the whole. Thor-

eleine and Chaguaramas.

oughbreds pound the dirt most Saturdays
and public holidays, totalling about 40 race
days a year. Prestige events include New Year

Gyms & health clubs

races, Derby Day, Diamond Stakes, Midsum-

Gyms are everywhere, not least at larger

mer Classic, President’s Cup and the Santa

hotels and malls; many offer weekly, monthly

Rosa Classic.

and daily passes which allow visitors access

Trinidad & Tobago Racing Authority:

to group exercise classes, aerobics, spin, etc.

www.ttra.net

Yoga and pilates are popular ways of pursuing

Horse riding

health and wellness.

In Trinidad, dressage and show jumping in-

Hiking & hashing

struction can be found at stables in Santa

Hiking is popular, especially guided weekend

Cruz and St Ann’s. For trail riding, contact

hikes to some of the island’s most dramatic

Hidden Valley (Chaguaramas) or Bonanza

caves and waterfalls. The Port of Spain Hash

Stud Farm (Arima).

House Harriers host a 100-strong bi-weekly

Kayaking

event, with healthy attention to the social side
of things.

River kayaking is best in the wet season when
rivers are full. The Yara and Marianne Rivers

Hockey

on the north coast are popular; so is the Nari-

The hockey year is split in two: an indoor

va Swamp where the Godineau River takes

season (September-January) and an outdoor

you through saltwater mangrove swamps

season (March-August), on Tacarigua’s Astro-

and freshwater marshland. The Kayak Centre

turf in Trinidad and at the Dwight Yorke Sta-

in Chaguaramas offers the sheltered waters

dium in Tobago.

of Williams Bay and provides equipment.

60 Trinidad

Photos courtesy Trinidad & Tobago Football Federation

www.ttffonline.com

Football

“Soccer” is a universal language that speaks to us. Everywhere you turn
you can see a ball zealot scuffling across any blade of grass, concrete,
or gravel he can find. In 2006, Trinidad & Tobago became the smallest
country ever to reach the finals of the World Cup. It is likely the most
popular sport in the country, from the school leagues to our national
team, the Soca Warriors, to the local players who represent us in famous
clubs around the world.
Soca Warriors: www.socawarriors.net


Mountain biking
Chaguaramas is ideal for beginners, but
the Santa Cruz valley and Matura-Matelot
are popular stretches.

Power boats
In late August, powerboats vie for
supremacy on an 84-mile route
from Trinidad to Tobago in the Carib
Great Race.

Rugby
Lyden Thomas

Not the most popular sport, but we’ve

Motor sports
Rally Trinidad and Rally Tobago are the big events. Drag
racing is popular, though lacking a permanent base.
Locations in south and central Trinidad include the pop-

done very well internationally. Our
teams have done us proud and are
showing more and more promise as
players get the chance to join top regional clubs. Trinidad & Tobago Rugby
Football Union: www.ttrfu.com

Sailing

ular Zig Zag and Indian Trail tracks in Couva. American Trinidad has one of the largest racautocross defensive driving competitions and karting ing fleets in the Caribbean, and
events are held in the car park of the Santa Rosa race Chaguaramas is a major sailing hub.
track.

The racing season begins around

Netball

November-December and contin-

At the international level, netball has been Trinidad & Tobago’s most successful team sport. We won the World
Netball Championship in 1979 and our women have excelled ever since. Trinidad & Tobago Netball Association:
tntnetball@yahoo.com

62 Trinidad

ues till May-June. The Sailing Association hosts over a dozen races,
including general handicap races
where any boat can take part. The
Trinidad & Tobago Sailing Association: www.ttsailing.org

Mixed martial arts (MMA)
A few MMA gyms have opened in Port of Spain, and
their events have been flooded with fans. Trinidadian
Dwayne Hinds has dominated the sport regionally

Lyden Thomas

and is set to take the world by storm.


Sport fishing
Onshore fishing is popular in
Chaguaramas, Las Cuevas, Galera
Point and the mouth of the Nariva
River, while popular boat-fishing
spots include the Chaguaramas
islands, where fishermen troll for
carite, kingfish and cavalli, and bank
for redfish, salmon and croakers (or
grunt). The key offshore seasons are
October-April for marlin, sailfish,
wahoo, tuna and dorado, and MayWilliam Barrow

September for barracuda, kingfish,
bonito, and snapper.

Surfing
Trinidad’s north coast beaches pro-

Swimming

vide satisfactory swells from Novem- Competitive swimming always had its fans, but the glory
ber to March, though the wet sea- of local hero George Bovell III (four-time Olympian) has
son (and the occasional hurricane increased its popularity. Swimming Association of Trinipassing further north) can generate dad & Tobago: www.swimtt.com
strong waves as well. But even in
peak season, surfing isn’t possible

Tennis

every day. Sans Souci, Las Cuevas, There are public courts at King George V Park in St
L’Anse Mitan, Grande Rivière, Rough- Clair, and courts can be rented by the hour at the
side and Salybia are favourite surfing Trinidad Country Club and some hotels. Courts
spots. In March, the Surfing Associa- at Tranquillity and Westmoorings require yearly
tion stages the CSN Sans Souci, the membership. Tennis Association of Trinidad & Tobago:
first event in the cross-Caribbean www.tennistt.info
The Trinidad & Tobago Olympic Committee website, www.ttoc.org, documents all sports in
which Trinidad & Tobago participates.

64 Trinidad

Ernie Matthews

Heart & Soul: Yoga
T

here are dozens of yoga studios across the country – Akasha Studio, Bliss Yoga and
The Sangha among them – offering classes in various traditions such as Kundalini,

Ashtanga and Hatha. Most studios are open-air, though some are quiet air-conditioned
rooms. Classes are generally very affordable, and some are even donation-based. There are
classes for kids and teenagers too.
In Tobago, Elspeth Duncan teaches group classes at the Kariwak Hotel. Her company,
Thou Art Yoga, offers one-on-one Kundalini yoga weekend retreats known as WOW – Wonderful One Weekend. She also does workshops and Kundalini yoga and creativity retreats for
small groups.


We are artists of all
kinds
D

espite our famous “fete culture”, we don’t actually spend all our time jumping and
prancing. There’s a rich and varied arts scene, for example, with enough theatre groups,

fashion designers, writers, musicians, filmmakers, dance companies and visual artists to keep
you busy and engaged every night of the week.

Dance

Film & cinema

Caribbean people are natural dancers, and a

The trinidad+tobago film festival in late

dance performance might mean folk, ballet,

September/early October screens local

jazz, modern, Indian, African, Latin, Chinese …

and diaspora features and shorts. The European Film Festival (October) screens new

Fashion & jewellery

and classic European movies. Multiplexes

There’s a confident and fast-developing fash-

(MovieTowne in Port of Spain, Chaguanas

ion industry with some highly gifted design-

and Tobago; Caribbean Cinemas 8 in Trincity)

ers; lovely handcrafted jewellery is produced

have all but replaced single-screen cinemas.

by, among others, Barbara Jardine, Rachel
Ross, Jasmine Thomas Girvan.

Literature
The big names include VS Naipaul, Earl
Lovelace, Michael Anthony, and the late Sam
Selvon among the veterans. Look for titles
by Lawrence Scott, Elizabeth Nunez, Shani
Mootoo, Robert Antoni, Elizabeth WalcottHardy. Monique Roffey won the 2013 Bocas
Prize. For beautiful memoir-esque writing, get
your hands on Wayne Brown’s work. Vahni
Capildeo’s poetry manages to be timeless
and other-worldly at the same time. Paper
Based bookshop in St Ann’s is one of the best
places to find local and West Indian reading.

66 Trinidad

Edison Boodoosingh


Music
The music that was invented and developed in Trinidad & Tobago – calypso, soca, steelpan – is
best heard at Carnival time, though there are shows of one sort or another most months of
the year. The music has been evolving from local roots into various kinds of world music: look
out for Mungal Patasar and Pantar, Ella Andall, David Rudder, Orange Sky, 12theband, jointpop,
3canal, H20 Phlo and recordings by the late André Tanker.

Theatre
Localised farce and musicals dominate the scene but there are occasional productions of classic
Caribbean plays, experimental theatre, and intimate solo shows and dramas.

Visual arts
Distinguished work is displayed at the National Museum and city art galleries, and a significant
art market has developed. Key names include sculptors Ralph and the late Vera Baney, Edward
Bowen, LeRoy Clarke, Chris Cozier, Jackie Hinkson, Dermot Louison, Shastri Maharaj, Wendy
Nanan, Lisa O’Connor, Irénée Shaw, Peter Sheppard and Sundiata. Work by earlier generations
is highly valued (MP Alladin, Sybil Atteck, Pat Bishop, Isaiah Boodhoo, Jean-Michel Cazabon,
Carlisle Chang, Boscoe Holder, Noel Vaucrosson).
Daily papers carry information on current performances and

Opposite page Pantar,
Gary Hector from the band jointpop
This page H2O Phlo

Marissa Rodriguez

exhibitions

68 Trinidad

Marissa Rodriguez
William Barrow

www.triniscene.com


We are shoppers
N

o, a ceramic coconut made in China is
probably not how you want to remember

your trip. Fair enough. But there are exceptionally talented local craftsmen in Trinidad working in leather, clay, fabric, copper and other raw materials like seeds, shells
and gourds. And you can find just about anything
mainstream, from clothes, houseware and aromatherapy candles to fancy local foods, fashion and
jewellery.
Considering the size of Trinidad (it’s less
of a problem in Tobago), there’s an almost
alarming number of shopping malls. In
downtown Port of Spain, Frederick Street
is a hectic shopping stretch which keeps
a finger on the pulse of our culture
even as older buildings and shops
are replaced by bigger and trendier
ones.

Marissa Rodriguez

Downtown
Non-mall shopping is focused on a few key streets in each urban
centre: Frederick and Charlotte Streets (Port of Spain); High Street (San Fernando); Main Street (Chaguanas); Milford Road Esplanade and the Market at Carrington Street in Scarborough, Tobago.

Online
Though relatively new, online shopping is gaining traction. So far, food, shoes, clothing, lingerie
and accessories are the main items that can be bought from local sites.

70 Trinidad

Shopping malls
There are five major shopping malls in Trinidad: The Falls at West Mall (Westmoorings)
and Long Circular Mall (St James) in the western suburbs of Port of Spain; Trincity Mall
near Piarco airport; Grand Bazaar (Valsayn); and Gulf City (San Fernando). They house
branches of popular downtown stores, but also high-end stores you won’t find anywhere
else. There are several smaller shopping plazas and mini-malls as well (e.g. Valsayn and
Ellerslie Plazas, and Excellent City Centre in the heart of Port of Spain).

Unexpected gifts
Artisan chocolates
Some of the world’s best cocoa comes from Trinidad, but it usually goes straight out of the
country for others to do wonderful things with. Now, chocolatiers are offering exquisite handHandmade and decorated chocolates by
Cocobel www.cocobel.com

Courtesy Cocobel

made truffles and other rich delights to local buyers.


India? Here?
Travelling trade fairs from India have become a regular event. Don’t
be surprised to find some great buys in Indian apparel, textiles,
jewellery, ornaments, even furniture. There’s something for every
budget, and the savings start with not having to buy an actual ticket
to India.

Find Art
On both islands you’ll find galleries selling the work of some of the
country’s top artists and photographers, and there are often several
exhibitions in progress. Expect a broad range in terms of quality and
price, but the best work is world-class.

Wild Ride at the Savannah;
sculpture,bronze and nautilus shell by
Jasmine Thomas Girvan

72 Trinidad

www.jasminethomasgirvan.com

www.janicederrick.com

Rachel Ross Jewellery on facebook


18 carat gold long leaf-cell chain by
Janice Derrick

Be Jewelled
Jewellery for any budget, preference or
occasion. From the slightly expected shelland-seed type of handicraft, to haute couture gold- and silversmith designs. And you
can’t discover Trinidad & Tobago without
running into insanely low-priced fashion
jewellery. Local chain Wonderful World is
an extravaganza of affordable and trendy
accessories. Another well-kept secret:
Gemstones in Maraval and West Mall.

Surprise! Not Just
Soca!
Apart from pan, calypso and soca, Trinidad & Tobago is a music-lover’s dream.
Jazz, Indian, gospel, parang (a Spanish-flavoured music popular around Christmas),
fusion, chutney. We have a long, longstanding love affair with rock (from mildalternative to semi-hardcore). And we have
some excellent choirs with classical and
contemporary repertoires. Most successful performers have produced their own
albums. Have a listen to some other very
Trinidadian kinds of music from names like
Mungal Patasar and Pantar, 3 Canal, Theron
Shaw, jointpop, Ataklan, the Marionettes
Chorale and the Lydian Singers.

74 Trinidad

We are food lovers
P

retty much everything we do revolves around food. Out for drinks? Yes but we’ll stop
for doubles/roti/gyros after. It’s Christmas! Midnight mass, love to your fellow man, wrap

presents. The reward: pastelles, ham, ponche de crème, black cake. Beach! Where’s the shark
and bake? Cricket! Who’s bringing the pelau?
Trinidad & Tobago can be complicated. But our united, delighted appreciation of food
is our society at its simplest and most artless. Where there be food, there we go.
Restaurants are plentiful, from the internationally noted to the dives known
only to those living nearby. Fine dining restaurants with celebrity chefs are
often located in converted traditional city houses, drawing ambience from
memories of old Port of Spain. If you like Chinese food, you’ve come to the
right place, oddly enough. The number of Chinese restaurants, mostly Cantonese, is in insane disproportion to the actual Chinese population. Not that
we’re complaining. And there are some divine Indian, Thai, Italian, and Creole
restaurants too.
But Trinidad is, above all, the land of

Ariann Thompson

street food. There are areas famous for

Opposite page Clockwise from top: assorted hot peppers; swizzle sticks; all spice;
pumpkin; aluminium graters.

76 Trinidad

Courtesy www.trinichow.com

www.trinichow.com


this, like the Western Main Road in St James, or the southeast
corner of the Queen’s Park Savannah.
In Tobago, Store Bay stands in
the winner’s circle for having
so much good food in one
place.
Here’s the challenge: eat
your way across the sheds,
tents, carts, mobile units,

out into the world and try to match
the experience.

78 Trinidad

an
sin
g

of this country and then go

h

stalls and basketed bicycles
ay
Nar
Emily

P.S. About green seasoning ... Wonder
what that flavour is that seems to make its
way into all local dishes? Referred to simply as “green seasoning”, it’s a minced mix
of chives, thyme, onions, garlic and celery.
Many home and professional cooks keep
their special variations fiercely guarded.

Two great sites for descriptions,
definitions and desires:
www.Trinichow.com,
www.CaribbeanPot.com.


Sno-cone
Shaved ice drenched in a variety of
syrups and, for a little extra decadence,

Marsha Edwards

condensed milk

80 Trinidad

Street food
Barbecue: in our version,

Curried crab and dump-

Roti: soft Indian flatbread

the sauce is thinner and

lings: a Tobago speciality,

filled with meat or vege-

more heavily seasoned than,

in which the steamed flour

tables and wrapped over

say, its sweet and tangy

dumpling offsets the dense

itself to keep everything in

American cousin

curry of the crab

place

Chow: fruit, especially

Doubles: a pair of fried

Shark and bake: the bake

young ones, pickled in

Indian flatbread pieces with a

is the mellow, fried round

vinegar, salt and pepper. Add

curried chickpea filling

of dough that houses the

as much hot pepper as you

Gyros: the traditional Arabic

sandwich. Add deep-fried

can stand. Favourites include

wrap of grilled meat and

slices of shark or other fish.

mango, pineapple, West

unleavened bread has been

Fresh vegetables, pineapple,

Indian plums

gaining popularity outside

and an array of condiments

Coconut water: straight

clubs, bars and parties

complete it

from the nut

Oyster cocktails: fresh oys-

Souse: the brined feet of

Corn: boiled, roasted or in

ters served in a tomato-based

pigs or chickens served with

soup

sauce, sold by the glass

lots of hot pepper


Courtesy the Hilton Trinidad
& Conference Centre

We have just the
place for you

For the business traveller
Trinidad offers accommodation options for business travellers of all kinds –
whether your needs are basic or fairly complicated. There are local as well
as international hotel brands in and around the capital and industrial centres.
In a place with a growing reputation for its conference-hosting facilities, our
business hotels can provide the services needed to make a professional visit
efficient.

82 Trinidad

Some popular choices among business travellers:

Port of Spain
Hyatt Regency Trinidad on the city waterfront
Hilton Trinidad & Conference Centre
overlooking the Savannah
Courtyard by Marriott less than
ten minutes from downtown Port of Spain
Kapok Hotel in Maraval

Near the airport
Holiday Inn Express Hotel and Suites

San Fernando
Royal Hotel

Courtesy Kapok Hotel

Tradewinds Hotel

84 Trinidad

Conference facilities
The idea of Port of Spain being the next great conference city is not
far-fetched.
One promising new area is our ability to facilitate conferences, seminars, tradeshows, conventions and any other conceivable type of meeting.
We have well-equipped spaces for all sizes of gatherings, good infrastructural support services (technical and otherwise), and professional organisers

Courtesy the Hilton Trinidad & Conference Centre

to pull everything together.

86 Trinidad

For the vacationer
Many good reasons to visit Trinidad, many different kinds
of places to stay. Charming boutique inns, no-frills selfcatering and nature retreats. Some of the hotels listed
in the business travel section cater to those with a little
luxury in mind.

Guesthouses and B&Bs
The Allamanda (Woodbrook) and Par-May-La’s

Sharon Millar

(Newtown) are handy for Port of Spain.


For the eco-enthusiast
Birds, butterflies, turtles – yes, we have them
all. And gorgeous forests and hiking trails.
Many of our visitors who keep coming back
are nature lovers and each encounter with
the landscape is special.
There are some wonderful nature-oriented havens in remote parts of Trinidad – some

William Barrow

William Barrow

Anu Lakhan

on the beach, some in the mountains.

Bargain hunting
Discounted rates and packages are often available.
The peak visitor season is December-April
(expect higher rates); prices also increase
around Carnival time.
Last-minute rooms are often available, but
it’s best to book ahead for any international
events and conferences, and for traditionally
popular periods like Easter, Carnival, Christmas
and New Year.
Visit www.gotrinidadandtobago.com
for current information.

90 Trinidad

Escape the ordinary. Discover
Hyatt Regency Trinidad.
With a prime location in the heart of downtown Port of Spain, Hyatt Regency Trinidad is
the premiere hotel for any type of getaway. Spacious suites offer spectacular gulf views,
ﬂat-screen televisions and our signature Hyatt Grand Bed, while our 9,000 square-foot
locally inspired spa and rooftop inﬁnity pool overlooking the gulf provide a luxurious
retreat. World-class cuisine and deluxe facilities designed to accommodate weddings,
events and parties of all sizes ensure guests will get the most out of their stay. For
reservations, call 868 623 2222 or visit trinidad.hyatt.com.

HYATT REGENCY TRINIDAD
1 Wrghtson Road, Port of Spain
868 623 2222

HYATT name, design and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. ©2013 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved.

92 Trinidad


Courtesy Hyatt Trinidad & Tobago

Welcome to Tobago
H
ere are two things to remember:

Tobago is small
Auchenskeoch, in the south of the island, is pronounced or-kin-skew.
While Tobago is certainly a more postcard Caribbean island than Trinidad, as we so often point
out, it really isn’t the most touristy place you can find. It can be surprisingly real. In its smallness,
everything is a shorter distance than it appears on the map. If you get off the coastal roads
and drive through the densely forested middle (where “forest” includes rainforest, bamboo,
deciduous and evergreens), the hills are low and close. Intimate. These narrow ribbons of road
wrap tightly around bends. Drive slowly: depending on the season, the way may be treacherous
with over-ripe mangoes spilling wantonly into the street. The dogs and chickens are all suicidal.
Tobago is very hilly, but gently so.
Auchenskeoch and its unlikely pronunciation is a good reminder that Tobago is full of surprises.

We’re eating out …
and in
T

obago’s restaurant scene might not be as diverse as Trinidad’s but there’s a fair range
from the fine to the fast. It’s a great island for an outdoor lifestyle and that includes eating.

Establishments great and small offer al fresco dining and gorgeous views. Whether your table
is on a veranda overlooking the north coast or at the poolside of a luxury hotel, the ambiance
can be as good as the food. The Magdalena Grand does wonderful buffet dinners – a different
theme every night.
Tobago’s own specialities are fresh seafood, including lobster and crab: its signature dish
is curried crab and dumplings. The stalls at Store Bay are famous for this must-taste meal.


If you’re in a position to do some self-catering, avail yourself of the fresh seafood and vegetables, homemade sauces, even yoghurt and cheese (look for the Orange Hill brand). Penny
Savers is a chain of small supermarkets in Canaan (Milford Road), Scarborough (Wilson Road)
and Carnbee village. If you need a few not-so-basic extras, Morshead Gourmet Foods at
Mt Pleasant, just off the Shirvan Road, carries some very fancy imports and exotic ingredients.

Etcetera
For other things you might need to pick up:
Gulf City Mall (Lowlands), on the north side of the Claude Noel Highway opposite Tobago
Plantations estate, is the island’s main shopping centre. It also has Tobago’s only cineplex.
Scarborough Mall, in lower Scarborough, is a plaza with the essentials: banks, post office,
library, pharmacies, bus station, etc. The Scarborough Market, next to the Mall, is the place for
fish, fruit, vegetables and local foods, especially on Friday and Saturday mornings.

96 Tobago

We are saving
the turtles
S

ave Our Sea Turtles (SOS) is a community-based organisation
that’s been working since 2000 to understand, monitor and protect

the vulnerable leatherbacks, hawksbills and green turtles that come to
shore in the Courland area of Tobago.
This year, instead of just telling you
how great turtles are, Discover asked
SOS member, Giancarlo Lalsingh, to
tell us more about what the guardians
of the turtles are thinking.
Why is keeping turtles
safe so important?
Sea turtles are incredible
creatures that have survived for
millions of years. They play an
integral part in the marine and
coastal environment they
inhabit. They provide many
beneficial ecological services,

Courtesy Giancarlo Lalsingh

and as a natural living resource,
contribute to building sustainable communities, not only in
Trinidad and Tobago but around
the world.

discovertnt.com 97

What makes someone stalk beaches for hours on end, losing sleep and
weight, to check on them?
In many respects, our lives are not that different from the long journey that sea turtles undertake.
From a tiny hatchling with a 1-in-1,000 chance of survival to a giant of the seas, travelling thousands
of miles through the ocean and finally returning after many decades to the beaches of their birth to
lay their eggs and begin the process all over again ... It would be a shame, after all that effort, to have
their eggs poached or worse, be killed. This is something we can all relate to.
What’s the hardest part?
Most people in T&T, even if they’ve never seen a turtle, know about them and the threats that
they face. Yet we still continue to engage in damaging activities that are leading these magnificent creatures down the path toward extinction.
Do more people want to help now? Why?
People feel a deep connection to sea turtles and are
helping in many different ways. Either through volunteering for beach patrols, helping with education and

Stephen Jay Photography

awareness, or simply by supporting those who do.

This page Trinidad & Tobago has the third largest
leatherback turtle nesting population. Matura and
Grand Riviere, are the most important landing sites
in Trinidad – they’re on the northeast coast. In
Tobago, Turtle Beach on the southwest coast is the
main spot.
Previous page SOS’s Giancarlo Lalsingh says the
most beautiful part of what he does is seeing the
hatchlings head off into the sea. “Those are the fruits
of many sleepless nights on the beach,” he says.

98 Tobago

We’re sunning,
surfing, swimming …
A

s clichéd as it sounds, yes, this tiny island is full of hidden gems. But we don’t all treasure
the same things. Drive. Drive. Drive. Take it all in. It’s not impossible to plan an itinerary in

Tobago (and you should try it that way at least once), but sometimes you find the best things on

Martin Superville courtesy Surfing Association of T&T

the way to somewhere else.


Crown Point & the Caribbean coast
Back Bay: secluded small bay between Mt Irvine and Grafton, reached via a cliffside trail. Good
for body surfing, tanning and snorkelling. It’s isolated, so go in a group
Bloody Bay: nothing at all like its unfortunate name, this is one of Tobago’s most peaceful and
unspoilt beaches. There are changing rooms, picnic tables, bathroom facilities and lifeguards
on duty
Buccoo: home of the Easter time goat and crab racing. There’s a small bar on site
Canoe Bay: calm, shallow waters, great for kids and less enthusiastic swimmers. Just a fiveminute drive down a dirt road off the Milford Road. It’s rarely crowded, and the excellent facilities
include a bar and beachfront cabanas; there is a small entrance fee
Castara: a quiet beach in a friendly west-coast fishing village. Watch the fishermen hauling in their
nets, or buy bread baked in old-fashioned dirt ovens. Facilities include a restaurant, stores and craft
stalls, and there’s accommodation nearby
Englishman’s Bay: with its distinctive blue-green-gold water surrounded by rich forest, there
should be a colour named after this bay. One of Tobago’s popularly photographed beaches.
Great snorkelling

100 Tobago

Great Courland Bay (also called Turtle Beach): this long, sandy stretch is a nesting place for
leatherback turtles during the season (March-August), as is Stonehaven Bay next door
King Peter’s Bay: quiet and calm, with dark sand. Good snorkelling
Mt Irvine: a pair of beaches with excellent facilities, snorkelling and surfing. The hotel side
offers refreshments and beach amenities (a bar, restaurant, lifeguards, watersports and tour
operations). Equipment for various watersports can be hired on site
Parlatuvier: fishing village with a tranquil beach and a few snackettes
Pigeon Point: near Crown Point and close to Buccoo Reef and the Nylon Pool, this is probably Tobago’s most popular and most photographed beach. There’s an entrance fee at the
end of the road into the Heritage Park. Food and drink, amenities and bathroom facilities,
watersports equipment, glass-bottom boat trips to Buccoo Reef and Nylon Pool
Stonehaven Bay: a magnificent, rugged dark-sand beach. The area is home to some of
Tobago’s more luxurious resorts and villas
Store Bay: extremely popular beach with some of the best food in Tobago. The swimming
is good and the craft and souvenirs are better than you’d usually expect from beach stalls.
Glass-bottom boat tours leave twice a day for Buccoo Reef and the Nylon Pool. Can get a bit

Radical Sports Tobago

crowded

Lifeguards are typically on duty 9am-5pm
or 10am-6pm, but not at all beaches. Red
flags indicate unsafe bathing areas. Sunscreen and insect repellent are essential
– tropical sun can quickly give a bad burn,
even through cloud, and mosquito-born
illnesses like dengue fever are still health
threats.


The Atlantic (windward) coast
Bacolet: close to Scarborough, this dark-sand beach is popular with surfers
Bellevue: accessed from the Belle Garden Bay Road junction, the waters here are calm by
windward-side standards
Granby Point: a windswept, dark-sand beach with the remains of a colonial fort
King’s Bay: a long, picturesque stretch with calm water and good facilities, including showers,
lifeguards and shaded cabanas. A good place to buy fresh fish, sometimes just hauled in
Little Rockly Bay: a scenic stretch running along the old coast road south of Scarborough,
with Atlantic Ocean views. Accommodation, restaurants and hangouts in the area
Man-o’-War Bay: in Charlotteville, at the northern tip of Tobago, you’ll find cottages, guesthouses and eateries. The village is the main venue for the Fishermen’s Festival in June
Pirate’s Bay: a stunning beach with crystal-clear water and a fabulous view; accessed via dirt
track from the end of the Charlotteville seafront, or by sea
Richmond Beach: a quiet, pretty beach near a river mouth
Speyside & Blue Waters/Batteaux Bay: sandy beaches within swimming distance of the reef.
Speyside and Blue Waters offer tranquillity and great snorkelling. Glass-bottom boat trips to Angel
Reef, Goat Island and Little Tobago start here. Speyside itself, Tobago’s dive capital, has a tourist

Martin Farinha

office, watersports facilities, varied accommodation, and restaurants


Forts: the British built a series of defensive forts around the coast in the
late 18th century, terrified (with good reason) that they were going to be
attacked by the French. By far the most important is Fort King George,
named after George III, standing high above Scarborough and commanding the town and the sea approaches. Several original buildings
and cannon survive. The Fort now houses the Tobago Museum (early
Amerindian and colonial collections), and provides a spectacular view
Point is a good place to watch the sun go down, Fort Bennett (1778)
surveys part of the Caribbean coast near Mt Irvine, and Fort James
commands the headland at Plymouth, overlooking Courland Bay.

104 Tobago

Ariann Thompson

of the windward coast and the Atlantic. Fort Milford (1777) at Crown

We are more than
just beaches
Y

ou’ve finally seen more gorgeous magical beaches than you thought could exist in one
tiny space. No? Even so, Tobago has more to recommend it than the soothing sand, the

luxurious water, the plentiful racing goats. Sometimes, something delightful (like a fruit punch
slushy) or fascinating (like a bizarre grave) is just around the corner. Don’t be surprised if you find
your favourite experience somewhere unexpected. Here are some of our favourites.
Adventure Farm & Nature Reserve: just beyond Plymouth – tropical fruit,
birdlife, a butterfly garden, shelter for endangered species
Arnos Vale: the 1857 waterwheel that once powered the mill at the old Arnos
Vale sugar estate is still there; so is an old Amerindian site, and the remains of
a slave village
Botanical Gardens: sloping grounds with majestic trees, a quiet escape from
the bustle of Scarborough among brilliant flamboyants, silk cotton trees and
royal palms
Buccoo Reef/Bon Accord Lagoon is the island’s first Ramsar Site (i.e. recognised as a wetland of international importance); the system includes the
inshore coral reefs and the Bon Accord mangrove swamps and seagrass beds,
where the rare green sea turtle is sometimes sighted
Charlotteville is peaceful and beautiful, snug on the shore of Tobago’s finest
natural harbour, Man-o’-War Bay. Like Speyside, it is an excellent dive centre
with its own dive shops. The beach is great for swimming, with beach facilities
at the southern end
Cuffie River Nature Retreat: hidden away inland and dedicated to nature
and tranquillity. Great bird watching, nature tours, and an easily accessible river
Flagstaff Hill: almost the northernmost tip of Tobago, reached via an unpaved road from the crest of the hill before descending into Charlotteville.
It was the site of an American military lookout and radio tower during World
War II. The view is panoramic, encompassing St Giles Islands and the village of
Charlotteville

Grafton Caledonia Wildlife Sanctuary: a former cocoa estate which evolved into a bird
sanctuary after 1963’s Hurricane Flora; the birds are fed at the Copra House around 4pm
Kimme Museum, Bethel: the workshop and gallery of the late German sculptor Luise Kimme,
best known for her larger-than-life Tobago dancers and folklore characters hand-carved from
wood. Kimme died in 2013 and a large part of the collection was lent to the Duesseldorf Kunstakademie. Call the gallery for up-to-date information (639-0257)
King’s Bay was once a large Carib settlement. The water is
calm and warm, and there are beach facilities. King’s
Bay Waterfall can be reached via a trail on the opposite side of the road; the falls may be dry if there’s
been little rain
Main Ridge & Forest Reserve: the Main Ridge
runs down two-thirds of the island like a spine.
Designated in 1776, it is the western hemisphere’s oldest protected reserve – protected specifically for reasons of conservation. A good scenic road runs
across the Ridge from Bloody Bay
to Roxborough, giving access to forest
trails like Gilpin Trace, an easy 45-minute walk to
a small waterfall
Richmond Great House: this quiet and charming Great House (1776) has been attractively restored to function as a guesthouse/hotel and
African art
Speyside is Tobago’s diving centre, and the

Ariann

T ho m
pson

restaurant. It houses an extensive collection of

departure point for Little Tobago, the island
bird sanctuary off the northeast coast. Stop
and enjoy the magnificent view from the
Speyside Lookout just before the descent into
the town. Tourist office, good dive shops and watersports operators

106 Tobago

Waterfalls: experienced guides will
take you to the three-tiered Argyle
Falls near Roxborough (there is an
entrance fee). Rainbow Waterfall is
another beautiful spot

Ariann Thompson

Giancarlo Lalsingh

Right Laughing gulls are everywhere in Tobago
Below Argyle Falls, Tobago’s highest waterfall,
cascades down a series of steps. There are
refreshing pools along the hike to the falls
Opposite page Tobago-based artist Luise
Kimme’s larger-than-life dancers


We are divers
T

ake a deep breath, breathe out slowly, look around. Fish everywhere: silver, black, yellow, blue. Big ones, tiny ones, listen to the crackling of the rock shrimp. Turtle! Look, a

hawksbill! So majestic! Check under that rock, it’s a nurse shark. Amazing! Wait, there’s a lobster,
its massive feelers waving in the current. Is that a stingray covering itself with sand? It’s huge!

Katy Stickland

There’s another one. Turtle! This one is a green turtle, you can tell from the mouth.

108 Tobago

Curt Whitney

www.tobagoscubadiving.com


Diving in Tobago is a sensory trip. There is

troductory courses; there is a decompression

so much going on, vistas of beautiful fish and

chamber at Roxborough Medical Facility,

coral, usually excellent visibility; manta, eagle

20 minutes’ drive from Speyside.

and sting rays are perennial attractions, as well

Licensed operators offer PADI or NAUI

as hammerhead, nurse and black-tipped

dive training for the inexperienced, as well

reef sharks; hawksbill, green and leather-

as equipment rental and sale for those who

back turtles; moray eels; barracuda; dol-

don’t have their own. Most dives are drift

phin; and pelagic species such as marlin. With

dives and the current can be fairly strong but

really friendly and helpful dive operators like

your dive operator will know the best sites

Marcus from Extra Divers in Crown Point

for the conditions and the divers’ relative

(extradivers@tstt.net.tt), you are sure to enjoy

experience. The best part is that there is usu-

your dives.

ally a maximum of ten people on any dive,

There is good diving to be had everywhere

including the dive-master, which makes for a

around the coasts, with over 60 established

much more personal experience.

dive sites (mainly around the northern tip)

We strongly recommend using a PADI

— shallow reef dives, deep diving, wreck div-

(Professional Association of Diving In-

ing, drift diving. Most dive operators offer in-

structors) registered guide.

110 Tobago

Discover Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide 2014

Discover Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide 2014

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Discover Trinidad & Tobago Travel Guide 2014