1. Contents
Introduction to leather garment 01
Variety of leather for garments & properties 02 – 04
Types of garment leather 05
Principles in production of garment leather 06
Tanning, dyeing &finishing of garment leather 07 – 09
DESCRIPTION,DETAILS & PRICE OF GARMENT LEATHER 10 – 14
LEATHER FAQ 15 – 16
Bibliography 17
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2. AN INTRODUCTION TO LEATHER FOR GARMENTS
GARMENT LEATHER
A wide selection of raw stock with large differences in the structure of the skin and hide, fat
content, etc., is used for garment leather. This diversity implies that processes have to be
adapted to the particular type of raw hide in order to gain the best results. The methods
employed in the processing of garment leather are much more varied than those used in the
manufacture of other types of leather. Goatskin and pigskin are mainly used for suede
garment because of the structure of the skin, but most sheepskin is full-grain. Garment leather
has to be soft and lightweight, with a pleasant handle and reasonably weatherproof.
PROPERTY OF GARMENT LEATHER
The properties of leather vary considerably depending upon the type and quality of both the
skins and the tanning process. Every piece of leather has individual markings which relate to its
origins and add character to each skin.
Like a fine wine, a good quality leather garment should improve with age. The natural
elasticity of each hide means it is flexible and will stretch and return to its original shape.
Leather also has a natural tendency to repel liquids and resist staining. It's also fire resistant,
and emits no toxic fumes, even when exposed to intense heat.
Relative to virtually all man-made textiles, leather is very strong and has a high resistance level
to tears and punctures. The comfort provided by most leather goods is due in part to leather's
ability to combine breathing and insulating properties. You may have heard... "Leather is hot in
summer and cold in winter." In reality, leather adjusts constantly to its environment. Because it
is a natural product, leather "breathes" freely, maintaining a comfort level in all seasons.
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3. VARIETIES IN LEATHER FOR GARMENT
Leather, Suede & Nubuck
Leather, suede and nubuck are natural materials which provide good wind shielding, warmth
and fiber breathability as well as being very comfortable and easy to wear.
The quality is determined by the softness and the origin of skin / hides (e.g. lamb, kid, sheep,
goat, pig, and cow/buffalo). Lamb, kid, sheep and goat leathers are very soft and supple to
the touch, as well as beautifully lightweight making them very comfortable and a joy to wear.
Pig, cow/buffalo hide leathers are thicker and heavier and therefore cheaper in cost.
PROPERTIES
Leather, nubuck, suede are flexible and natural fabrics which will mould and adjust with
regular wear to the body at the contact and contour points. This is the case whether the fit on
the person is loose, fitted or comfort fit. Leather garments will also stretch with regular wear at
snug contact points. A new leather jacket, coat or waistcoat will have been having on a
hanger in the warehouse before you receive. It is therefore not uncommon for the leather to
stick out from the body where there is a bit of space. The leather with wear will fall into the
body with a little wear and also as it warms up from body heat. Generally leather garments all
improve with wear and will give the wearer a lot of pleasure and comfort during its life. In our
opinion you can't beat a premium quality leather jacket or coat, and yes we are bias as
otherwise we would not be in the leather jacket business.
PROPERTIES OF NAPPA LEATHER
Nappa leather is the highest quality and most expensive leather type. Nappa leather is
defined by its beautifully lightweight structure, suppleness and softness. Nappa leather is
derived from lamb and sheep skins. The main benefit of a garment crafted in nappa leather is
that it can be worn all day with out it weighing down like a lead coat (which is what hide
leather jackets and coars can feel like). Of course if you want a jacket or coat that you can
abuse then hide leather will definitely be more suitable. So it is all down to what you want as
an individual.
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4. TYPES OF FINISHING USED IN NAPPA:
Standard - very subtle natural sheen.
Brushed - matt finish with no sheen.
Crushed / Creased - subtle crushed or creased effect.
Glazed - shiny glaze finish. Slightly stiffens leather.
Semi-Glazed - as a above but lighter glazed effect. Slightly stiffens leather.
Washed - subtle antiqued finish that lends a great added vintage styling.
Rub off - colour has been lightly rubbed off during the dye stage.
Distressed - fashion worn look.
PROPERTIES OF NUBUCK LEATHER
Nubuck is made from finely sanding and milling full grain leather, the process is expensive and
produces a luxuriously soft finish. Nubuck can be described as velvet on leather, this short nap
that catches the light to give a very subtle dual tone effect in a matt finish. High quality
nubuck jackets and coats offer an attractive vintage look finish.
Nubuck is generally more expensive than standard nappa leather.
nubuck has gorgeous velvety soft touch finish and is a beautiful medium weight, it is definitely
gorgeous to touch and wear.
PROPERTIES OF SUEDE LEATHER
Suede is derived from an interior split of a leather skin. Suede has short hair like structure on
both sides. Suede is generally cheaper than premium nappa leather or nubuck.
Finish - short hair / fuzzy finish. Lightweight to wear.
PROPERTIES OF HIDE LEATHERS (PIG&COW)
Pig and cow skins are used for hide leathers. Pig and cow skins are thicker and
heavier than nappa leather, with cow hide being the heaviest and thickest. Cow hide is also
commonly referred to as 'buffalo hide' - it is the exact same leather type.
Pig and cow hide (buffalo hide) leathers are lower in cost and less sought after due to their
weight and thickness. The pig or cow skin is sliced by a laser to reduce weight and thickness
to make it more suitable and practical for wear and crafting into jackets.
continue……..
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5. It is generally worthwhile being aware that the leather jackets and coats generally sold within
high street fast moving fashion chains are typically made of very thin slices of cow and, or pig
hides in order to achieve the maximum number of leather sections and hence garments from
a single hide. Thus quality is sacrificed for higher profits.
Leather motorbike jackets are also typically made from hide leathers for extended durability;
these are made of an optimum thickness to provide protection and sufficient flexibility.
Finish - full grain thick leather.
BRUSHED HIDE LEATHER
This is milled cow hide leather to give a nubuck type finish. This has a soft touch finish and is
thicker than nubuck, nappa leather or suede.
 The added advantage of brushed leather is that it has a matt finish.
 Finish - brushed matt effect finish in a soft touch.
IMITATION LEATHER
There are very good leather, nubuck and suede imitation garments available and these are
referred to and labelled as "faux". It is worthwhile noting that imitations generally mimic the
higher quality end of genuine leather, suede and nubuck skins (i.e. these do not imitate the
lower quality end). All the same, the imitations do not offer the wind shielding, warmth and
fibre breathability of real leather, nubuck or suede. Most people that have an imitation
leather, suede or nubuck jacket or coat will either find that it does not keep them warm in the
depths of winter or will find themselves hot or sweating in the garment when in the warm
indoors or in a warm environment.
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6. TYPES OF GARMENT LEATHER
Cowhide is the most common leather used in the making of garments, furniture and leather
goods. Cowhide as a category covers a wide spectrum of textures and quality, but generally,
it is quite durable, easy to care for and resistant to water and dirt. Cowhide leather will
maintain its integrity, taking on the shape of the wearer, making it more comfortable with
everyday use. This affordable, functional leather offers fashion, value, endless colors and style.
Lambskin is very soft, luxurious leather. Its natural lightweight layers give it a distinctive, velvety
touch, which suites form fitting jackets, pants, skirts as well as coats. But don't let its delicate
texture discourage you. With a little extra care, lambskin is very wearable and the ultimate
luxury.
Pigskin is by far the most popular and versatile, easily transformed into fashion's most current
looks. When tanned on the outside, it produces smooth napa finish, often used for jackets and
accessories. Tanning on the inside results in a silky suede finish. The natural, lightweight
structure of pigskin produces delicate patterns, textures and silky soft naps, perfect for
sportswear, shirts and blazers.
Sheepskin refers to the hide of a sheep used with the wool still attached. Usually, the wool side
faces into the garment or accessory, but it can also be made reversible. The wool can be
ironed, which means straightened to yield a smooth, fur-like appearance, or it can be left
naturally curly. Whichever way the wool is styled, this is the warmest leather available.
Shearling is quite similar in appearance to sheepskin, the term shearling refers to hides from
lambs which are generally much lighter in weight then sheepskin hides and much softer.
Although they may be lighter, shearling coats are just as warm as the heavier sheepskin. They
are an elegant alternative to a fur coat.
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7. The following principles need to be observed in the production of garment leather
Raw stock Cattle hide calfskin, sheepskin, pigskin, goatskin and skins of various
game animals such as deerskin.
Beam house The skin has to be opened up well during liming.
Greasy skins need to be degreased well.
Tannage Chrome tanning is more appropriate than other tanning methods
due to the required softness of the leather.
For that reason combinations with chrome and glutaraldehyde
can also be found quite often.
Retannage Attention needs to be paid to the following factors when selecting
syntans and polymers:
High light fastness
Neutral odour
Dyeing Leather can be dyed to all colors, from classical shades to very
intense, brilliant shades.
High light fastness
High migration resistance and perspiration resistance
Fat liquoring / Neutral odour
water repellents Extremely soft leather
High bulk
Pleasant handle
High water resistance and perspiration resistance
Water-resistant treatment may be applied
Finishing Leathers range from being left unfinished to being given a fairly
thick coat of finish.
Stretchy leather
Pleasant handle and optical appearance
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8. ANNING INVOLVED IN LEATHER FOR GARMENT
The tanning industry is a multi-billion dollar industry with factories throughout the world. While
Leather has always been largely a byproduct of the meat industry, today this is a universal
fact; the most notable exceptions being some types of snake skins. The greatest and most
valuable advancements in tanning technology relate to the mitigation of its environmental
effects. Today, the vast majority of countries with tanning industries have stringent
environmental regulations to ensure that these technological advancements are, in fact,
employed. While the exact specifications and procedures for tanning vary considerably,
depending on the type of skin and its application, the basic processes are common to all
tanning operations.
THE TANNING PROCESS
The skins and hides are received at the tannery in a cured form, which means they have been
treated with salt to prevent rot before they leave the meat packing plant. The hides are then
soaked in water to soften them and to remove the remaining salt solution. The soaking period
varies from two to forty eight hours. The next step is fleshing. Machines equipped with a rubber
roller and a shaft to which spiral knives are attached remove the flesh and tissues from the
inner side of the skin. These knives leave a clean, uniform surface. After fleshing, workers
transfer the skin to a department of the tannery known as the beam house. Here the hair is
removed by soaking the hides in a vat with a solution of lime and sodium sulfate. The hides are
milled or kept in motion in the vat for several days.
The next operation involves removing the lime from the skins. After washing with cold water
they are placed in a bating vat which contains an enzyme and a sulfate or chloride. Bating
also softens the texture of the hide during this 3 to 4 hour treatments. At this stage, the hides
enter one of two possible processes of tanning: Vegetable or Chrome tanning. Leathers for
shoe soles, heavy cases, harnesses and most upholstery applications are prepared by
vegetable tanning. Many plants and barks contain a bitter ingredient called tannin. It has the
property of combining with proteins to form a compound that will not rot or decompose
easily. In this case, the protein is the hide and after tannin is added, the compound is leather.
The principal sources of tannin are leaves, nuts, bark and woods of hemlock, oak, chestnuts
and various other types of trees.
Continue….
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9. Chrome tanning is used for tanning the upper leather of shoes, handbags, wallets and
garments. Prior to chrome tanning, the hides must be pickled after the bating step. Pickling
involves soaking the hides in a solution of salt and acid for several hours to achieve a low pH
level. This is necessary because the chrome-tanning agents that are to follow are not soluble
otherwise. The pickled skins or hides are then placed in a tanning drum containing a solution
of common salt, soda and acid. The chemical reaction to the compounds tans the hide and
after 5-10 hours, the conversion to leather has been effected.
DYEING & FINISHING
After the leather has been tanned, it is then split and shaved to a uniform thickness
appropriate for the intended product. Dyeing or coloring is achieved by placing the leather in
another drum with a combination of coloring materials and chemicals to increase their
penetration. This process may take several hours.
Fat liquoring is the last step in the "wet" stage and requires about one hour. Here the leather is
placed in a drum with a variety of oils and greases. This step and the combinations of oils
employed, determine the pliability of the leather. The leather is then dried to remove all excess
moisture. A number of different methods are used, each having a different "dehydration" level
which influences the characteristics of the final product. Often the leather is then buffed. All
skins have natural healed scratches or blemishes, which attest to the genuineness of leather.
However, to improve its final appearance, it is often desirable to lightly sand or buff the grain
surface. If the leather is not buffed, the leather is top or full grain leather.
Finishing involves the application of film-forming materials to provide abrasion and stain
resistance and to enhance colour. Pigments are also added when a more opaque or vivid
coloring effect is required. However, with smooth or top grain leather, usually only a light,
transparent coating is applied. This is known as aniline dyeing. Of the two, aniline finished
leathers are the finest quality. The final processing step to influence the appearance and feel
of the leather is called plating. The plating operation is done on a press capable of exerting
up to 300 tons per square inch. The plating smoothes the surface of the coating materials just
Continue….
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10. applied and firmly affixes them into the grain. At the same time, the plate may be specially
engraved to emboss a particular pattern on the leather.
The specifications and required characteristics of the tanned leather is determined by the end
use of product for which it is intended. Tanneries produce to order for a wide variety of final
goods manufactures; there is a huge range in the quality of both materials and workmanship
in leather goods. In 1995, total world leather production was approximately 7,000,000 metric
tons of cowhide; 1,400,000 metric tons of lambskin, shearling, sheepskin; 800,000 metric tons of
pigskin and 450,000 metric tons of goatskins. It has been estimated that more than 2,000,000
people in the world are employed in the various branches of the leather industry.
Today, the leather tanning industry stands out as perhaps the most productive byproduct
industry in the world. It is hard to imagine the environmental impact of the additional synthetic
product manufacturing which would be required to replace all of the current applications for
leather, suede and shearing. It is impossible to imagine how any of these synthetic substitutes
could ever match the esthetic appeal of genuine leather.
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11. DESCRIPTION,DETAILS & RETAIL PRICE OF SOME GARMENT LEATHER
Garment leather is breathable, supple, elastic and also true to form while tough and
durable like a second skin. Leather being a refined natural product is traded in different
sizes. Garment leather is obtainable in either square meters (m2) or in square footage (qfs).
Steed (Horse) Nappa Relax: smooth and extreme soft Nappa Leather for high end
garments.
Retail
Item Description Details
Price(€/m²)
Thickness:
Horse Nappa A thin garment horse leather, somewhat 0,7-0,9 mm
Leather Relax stronger as lamb nappa, ideal for pants, Size: 1 Skin 49,50
jackets, erotic attire, pilot caps, etc. ca. 3-4 m²
Square Foot : 1qfs = 0,0929 m² , 1m² = 10,76 qfs.
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12. Steer Suede Leather for strong and durable Garments
Item Description Details Retail Price
Steer Suede Leather, all colors Thickness: 1.1 - 1.3
Steer Suede complete steer splits with fine finish. mm
Leather Also known as: Wild Leather, Raw Size: Croupon ca.
€/m²
1.1 - 1.3mm Leather; good for leather garments. 1,4 m² 27,50
Leather goods, belts, shoes and other Order minimum: 1
applications. Croupon
Pig Suede Leather for fine Garments
Item Description Details Retail Price
Pig Suede, (Known as: Wild Thickness: 0,5-0,7
Pig Suede
Leather, Raw Leather), full finish, mm
Leather 4,30 €/qfs
good for fine garments, shirts, Size: ca. 10 - 15 qfs
Women’s attire. Order minimum: 1 Skin
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13. Lamb Nappa Leather for light garments
Item Description Details Retail Price
Thickness:
For soft garments like: Lamp Nappa Leather
0,8-0,9
Lamb jackets, trousers. Additional colors upon €/qf
Size: ca. 5-10
Nappa, 1A request with a minimum six skin per color 5,90 s
qfs
purchase.
Thickness:
Lamb 0,8-0,9 mm
For soft garments like: Lamb Nappa €/qf
Nappa, Size: ca. 5-10 3,90
Leather jackets, trousers s
black qfs
Thickness:
Lamb 0,8-0,9 mm
Special request, for soft garments like: €/qf
Nappa Eco, Size: ca. 5-10 3,90
Lamp Nappa Leather jackets, trousers. s
black qfs
Water Buffalo Leather for Garments
Item Description Details Retail Price
Nubuk Leather with polished
Water Thickness: 1,0-1,2
surface. Wild goods with natural
Buffalo mm
texture, good for robust leather €/qfs
Leather Size: ca. 30-45 qfs 3,85
garments such as pants and
Nubuk
medieval costumes.
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14. Chamois Leather / Lining leather, unsorted, authentic
Item Description Details Retail Price
Authentic Chamois Leather like in Thickness: 0,9-
Lining Leather,
early medieval times, or by Western - 1,2 mm 6,3
Sheep, traditionell €/qfs
Country, traditional tanning process, Size: ca. 7-10 qfs 0
finish
sorted by quality.
Kangaroo Leather, extremely tear resistant. For thin garments and Falcon hoods.
Item Description Details Retail Price
Thickness: 0,5-
Kangaroo For extreme strong garments, like: motorcycle clothing, 1,0 mm
8,90 €/qfs
Leather corsets, Falconry articles. Wild goods with natural texture. Size: ca. 5 - 10 qfs
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15. Leather for erotic needs
For theneeds in the erotic area only leather with a closed surface are mostly used.
Recognizable for the ability to be hand washed and with a nice shine, as well as having a
high tensile strength. We recommend for you:
black,
Lamb Nappa 0,8 - 0,9 mm
malborored
fine under garments Patent
0,4 - 0,5 mm /
Material, Steer black
0,6 - 0,7 mm
Nappa Leather Solid
Kangaroo
0,8 - 0,9 mm / 0,6
Leather, Steer Nappa black, brown
fine under garments ,
- 0,7 mm
extreme strength
Leather Solid
Horse Leather, Aniline
0,7 - 0,9 mm diff. colors
normal Garments Leather
Thick Leather, Full
1,4 - 1,6 mm black
sturdy Outfit Grain
Harness Sides veg. 2,2 - 2,5 mm black
Restraints, Straps and heavy
equipment
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16. LEATHER FAQ
 Q: I see leather garments at lots of different price points. Why are some more expensive
than others?
 Ans -Inexpensive leathers tend to be made from cows that are older and whose hide is
thicker, heavier in weight and generally quite durable. More pricey leather is
commonly made from a younger animal whose hide is smoother, lighter in weight and
traditionally more delicate. Tanning processes and treatments can also affect a leather
garment's price, as do all sorts of design considerations.
 Q: I saw a pair of leather jeans in a magazine that were listed as washable. I always
thought that water ruined leather. Could you explain?
 Ans: Typically, "washable leathers" are made of suede that has been coated with an
environmentally friendly enzyme and then pre-washed. This process strengthens the
material, gives it a more leathery hand and renders it able to withstand the washing
machine. Cold water with a mild liquid soap (not regular detergent) in the gentle cycle
is recommended; then tumble-dries on low. Since the garments are pre-washed,
consumers will find minimal change in color and texture. By eliminating the need for
traditional leather cleaning, washable leather can also bring big savings. BUT NOTE
CAREFULLY: Most leathers are not washable. Always check the garment's care label or
Consult with your place of purchase to be certain whether your particular garment is
made of washable leather or suede.
 Q: What should I do when leather is exposed to rain or salt from the streets?
 Ans: Promptly remove salt deposits by sponging with clear water, and then allow wet or
damp leather items to air-dry naturally, away from any heat source. You can then treat
most items with a specially formulated leather conditioner to renew flexibility, while
suede can be brushed with a terry towel to restore its surface.
 Q: My leather skirt became wrinkled during travel. Can it be fixed?
 Ans: It can. Most wrinkles will hang out on their own, although it is perfectly safe to iron
leather. Simply set iron on its rayon setting, use heavy brown wrapping paper as a
pressing cloth on the right side of the item and iron. Wrinkles should come right out. As
always when doing something at home, test on a small, inconspicuous area first.
 Q: Does leather lose its shape?
 Ans: In a word, yes. Leather jackets and shirts should be hung on wide or padded
hangers to best maintain their shapes. Shoe and boot trees keep footwear looking
good and handbags will look better longer when stuffed with white tissue paper when
not in use.
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17.  Q: Are there any common things that can damage leather?
 Ans: Perfumes, hair spray and your natural body oils are a few of the things that, over
time, can discolor or damage leather. You should avoid spraying perfumes or hair spray
while wearing your garment. A scarf at the neckline will also help keep hair and body
oil away from the collar.
 Q: I had my leather jacket professionally cleaned and the color changed. Is this
normal?
 A: As a matter of fact it is. Leather is a natural product and you can never determine
exactly how it will react to the cleaning process. An LAA recommended leather
cleaner would clean the garment and then restore the essential oils that were lost
during the procedure. Since the cleaner can never exactly match the method that
was originally used when your garment was created, this process will sometimes
produce a slight change in color or texture. Also note that for this reason it is important
to clean matching garments at the same time.
 Q: What kinds of products can be used to keep my leather looking great?
 A: LAA can provide names of reputable manufacturers of at-home treatments. Be sure
to choose products intended for your item and carefully read and follow the
instructions for best results. Never use household products, waxes, silicone or any other
preparations that impair the leather's ability to breathe. And always test products on a
small inconspicuous area first.
 Q: How should I store my leathers?
 A: A dark closet that is neither too dry nor too humid is an ideal storage place. When
putting garments away for the season, always place them in breathable covers. Never
use plastic, which can dry out leather.
Source : www.agoatoolkit.com/agoa/English/Select%20Products/.../Leather/04.pdf
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18. BIBLIOGRAPHY
www.leatherhouse.com
www.agoatoolkit.com/agoa/English/Select%20Products/.../Leather/04.pdf
cbi.edu.in
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