Spring Templestay in Korea

Volume 2, Number 1

© Ha Ji-gwon

FEATURE STORIES

Buddhist Temples of Korea
04
12

Lotus lanterns reflected on the water

A Spring Journey to Korea’s “Three Jewel Temples”
Memories of Ven. Beopjeong, Korea’s Great Practitioner

CULTURAL SCENES OF KOREA
02

16

Published by Cultural Corps of Korean Buddhism
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Seoul, 110-170, South Korea
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Translated by Golden Lotus Translation and
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phones and tablet PCs. A Templestay application is
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Copyright © 2013 Cultural Corps of Korean Buddhism.
All rights reserved.
Registration No. 010110-08-2013-055

One Spring Day

Boudoir Culture of Korea’s Joseon Dynasty:
Meticulous Stitching of the Bojagi

42

Photo Essay

Heritage of Korea

Journeys

A Spring Journey along the Seomjin-gang River

TEMPLESTAY AND BEYOND
22

In Search of Freedom and Equanimity:
Jikji-sa Templestay

30

Consuming the Essence of Spring

34

48

Templestay

Temple Food

Temple Diary

Beautiful Memories of a Yongjoo-sa Templestay
Templestay Q&A

Information to Enhance Your Templestay Experience

3

The Buddha’s teachings may be compared to a fragrance. They are not visible to the naked eye but are
nonetheless beautiful and fragrant. The same is true of the fragrance of plum blossoms. Their mystical
and unique fragrance is unsurpassed, sometimes referred to as “amhyang” or “secret fragrance.” Neither
too strong nor too subtle, its fragrance permeates the temple compound in spring, and after a spring
rain, the fragrance of the plum blossoms grows stronger. The beautiful fragrance of the plum blossoms
permeates us like the teachings of the Buddha.
—
Text and photo by Yu Dong-yeong

Feature Stories 1

A Spring Journey to Korea’s
“Three Jewel Temples”
Of numerous temples in Korea, Tongdo-sa, Haein-sa and Songgwang-sa,
known collectively as the “three jewel temples,” would be best visited on a
fine spring day. Buddhism cherishes what they refer to as “the three jewels,”
namely the Buddha Jewel, the Dharma Jewel and the Sangha Jewel; these refer
to the Buddha, the teachings of the Buddha and the monastic and lay Sangha
respectively. As the three jewel temples pass on the heritage of Buddhism’s
three jewels, they can be said to be the three primary temples of Korea.
—
Article by Sim In-bo | Photos by Ha Ji-gwon

A spring journey is savored best at a slow pace. For a lazy spring trip that allows one
to wander languidly for a while, occasionally stopping to rest, no place is better than a
mountain temple, especially the temples of Tongdo-sa, (the Buddha jewel), Haein-sa
(the Dharma jewel), and Songgwang-sa (the Sangha jewel). Their names alone arouse
a flutter of anticipation! I am not recommending these temples for a spring journey
just because of their fame. Throughout their millennial history, these mountain temples
have accumulated not only peace and tranquility, but also numerous icons of Buddhist
cultural heritage. Furthermore, as they are nestled deep in the mountains, the paths
leading to them are ideal for a leisurely stroll.

4

5

Among the various offerings
to the Buddha, such as
lanterns, the reading of sutras,
the singing of Buddhist
hymns and flower offerings,
flower offerings are said
to be the best. That’s why
temples try to plant a variety
of flowering plants.

6

1
2

1. Tongdo-sa is the Buddha jewel temple, the
foremost of Korea’s three jewel temples.
2. The Diamond Precepts Altar at Tongdo-sa
wherein the Buddha’s relics are enshrined

Tongdo-sa Templestay
Telephone
+82-55-384-7085
Website
http://www.tongdosa.or.kr

7

A Visual Spectacle of Flowers at the
Buddha Jewel Temple of

Tongdo-sa
Enshrining the Buddha as a jewel, Tongdo-sa is

of Buddhist hymns and flower offerings, flower

the Buddha jewel temple. Of course there are no

offerings are said to be the best. That’s why

temples that have not enshrined the Buddha, so the

temples try to plant a variety of flowering plants.

title “Buddha jewel temple” must mean something

Tongdo-sa is no exception, and in springtime a

special. However, in the Main Buddha Hall of

spectacle of flowers can be seen here and there in

Tongdo-sa, there aren’t any Buddhas. The place

the temple compound. Of all the spring flowers,

where Buddhas would normally be enshrined is

the red plum blossoms (hongmae) in front of the

empty, and only a long horizontal window is seen.

Ancestral Hall (Yeonggak) and Paradise Hall

(Geungnak-jeon) boast a sensuous and enchanting

About 1,400 years ago, an eminent monk of

the Silla era named Ven. Jajang went to China to

beauty. When the red plum blossoms open,

study. When he came back, he brought the relics

radiating their hypnotic attraction, people flock

and the robe of the Buddha. In his search for the

from all over Korea to experience this wonder. For

best place to enshrine these two treasures, equal

these people, viewing the flowers momentarily

in status to the Buddha himself, he ended up on

takes precedence over veneration of the Buddha.

Mt. Chukseo-san in present-day Yangsan. To his

surprise, the mountain bore a close resemblance

shouldn’t be missed is found on the flower-pattern

to India’s Vulture Peak where the Buddha taught

lattice doors of the Main Buddha Hall. On the

the Lotus Sutra. Ven. Jajang established a temple

eastern doors of the Main Buddha Hall are carved

there and then built the Diamond Precepts Altar

chrysanthemums, lotus flowers and peonies.

(Geumgang-gyedan) in which he enshrined the

The doors are a masterpiece of craftsmanship.

relics and the robe. Through the window in the

Not only on the doors but also around the Main

Main Buddha Hall, the Diamond Precepts Altar is

Buddha Hall floral designs are abundant. Lotuses

visible. Because relics of the Buddha himself are

are carved into the side of the staircase, as well

enshrined there, there was no need to enshrine a

as on the front wall of the terrace. It is as though

Buddha statue. That’s why no statue of Buddha

a shower of flower petals is falling upon a house

can be found in Tongdo-sa’s Main Buddha Hall.

in a flower garden. When the Buddha taught on

The name of the mountain was soon changed to

Vulture Peak, holding a lotus flower in his hand,

Mt. Yeongchuk-san meaning “Vulture Peak.”

legend says that flowers fell from the heavens.

In spring, Tongdo-sa’s Main Buddha Hall is

Among the various offerings to the Buddha,

such as lanterns, the reading of sutras, the singing

Another kind of flower at Tongdo-sa that

reminiscent of that scene.

8

Millennial Wisdom of
the Dharma Jewel Temple of

Haein-sa
When one thinks of Haein-sa, one always

Koreana is a Korean national treasure and so are

thinks of the printing woodblocks of the Korean

the repository buildings of the Panjeon. One can

Buddhist canon, the Tripitaka Koreana. People

say that here resides one Korean national treasure

of the Goryeo era collected all the teachings of

within another. Both are designated as UNESCO

the Buddha available at the time and carved them

World heritages.

onto the 81,258 printing woodblocks, a total of

52 million carved Chinese characters. If these

are beautiful. Each of the four buildings reveals a

woodblocks were stacked one on top of the other,

simple grace without any superfluous decoration.

their height would reach 3,200m, and if they were

These treasure storehouses are the oldest

laid side by side horizontally, their length would

buildings at Haein-sa. To maintain continuous air

extend 60km. This world class heritage has been

circulation, the windows of these buildings are

preserved and passed down for over a thousand

of different sizes to take advantage of the winds

years. Thus we can truly say that Haein-sa is the

coming down from Mt. Gaya-san and the winds

Tripitaka Koreana and the Tripitaka Koreana is

rising from Hongnyudong Valley. The arch-shaped

Haein-sa. Therefore, Haein-sa rightfully claims

Janggyeong-mun Gate, located at the entrance to

the title of Dharma jewel temple.

the Panjeon, casts mystical lotus-shaped shadows

The Tripitaka Koreana woodblocks were

twice a year, at the summer and winter solstices.

created as a spiritual defense against the Mongol

The Panjeon is surrounded by traditional Korean-

invasion, the royal court and the people uniting as

style walls called kkotdam, made of layered tile

one to produce them. Each craftsman maintained

and clay on which flowers are engraved. The walls

utmost sincerity by carving a character and

are just one more of Haein-sa’s artful allurements.

Aside from their fame, the Panjeon buildings

then offering a prostration to the Buddha before
engraving the next character. Upon finishing each
woodblock, they engraved their names at the end.
Such sincerity was also maintained in constructing
the repositories of the woodblocks.

These repositories are called “Janggyeong

Panjeon” or “Panjeon” for short, and are located
behind Haein-sa’s Hall of Great Tranquility
and Light (Daejeokgwang-jeon). The Tripitaka

Haein-sa Templestay
Telephone
+82-55-934-3110
Website
http://www.haeinsa.or.kr

9

1
2

1. The repositories of the Tripitaka Koreana, the “Janggyeong
Panjeon,” are designated as a UNESCO World heritage.
2. A printing woodblock on which the Buddha’s teachings are
engraved

10

1

2

1. Neungheo-gyo Bridge is often
said to be the most beautiful
sight at Songgwang-sa.
2. Befitting its title of the Sangha
jewel temple of Korea,
Songgwang-sa has produced
16 national preceptors.

11

Philosophy of Non-possession at the
Sangha Jewel Temple of

Songgwang-sa
As the “mountain temple of non-possession,”

philosophy of non-possession, lived a life of purity

Songgwang-sa is better known for what is not

at Buril-am, one of the hermitages of Songgwang-

there rather than what is there. At Songgwang-

sa. After death, his ashes were scattered under the

sa there are neither stone pagodas nor any stone

silver magnolia tree at Buril-am.

lanterns. There are also no wind chimes, normally
found at any Buddhist temple. This is due to the

I looked for spring all day but it was nowhere

concern that even their soft melodious sounds may

to be found

disturb the practice of the monks.

Having wandered all over the mountain till

my straw shoes wore off

One legend of three coins attests to

Songgwang-sa’s being the mountain temple

I finally came back home dragging my

of non-possession. Under the lower arch of

exhausted body

Neungheo-gyo Bridge, said to be the most

Then, I found plum trees blossomed in my

beautiful sight at Songgwang-sa, a protruding

own courtyard

dragon’s head holds three coins. A long time ago,
a monk constructed the bridge with donated funds.

This is a Seon (Zen) poem written on the wall

When the bridge was completed, three coins were

around Songgwang-sa’s Bell and Drum Pavilion.

left, which the monk then hung from the dragon’s

Whenever one has the sudden thought that one

head. The point of the story is that the monks of

may still be living life wandering too hastily

Songgwang-sa wouldn’t even take three coins for

on mountain slopes, perhaps one should go to

their own personal use.

Songgwang-sa.

What is the relationship between being

the Sangha jewel temple and non-possession?
In Buddhist practice, emptying oneself of all
preconceptions and delusions comes first. Perhaps
the first step on any spiritual path should be to
cast aside all of one’s spiritual afflictions and
greed. Through this practice of emptying oneself
again and again, Songgwang-sa has produced 16
national preceptors. Among the eminent monks
of modern times, Ven. Beopjeong, known for his

Songgwang-sa Templestay
Telephone
+82-61-755-0107
Website
http://www.songgwangsa.org

Feature Stories 2

“When you have nothing,
you can have the whole world.”
Memories of Ven. Beopjeong,
Korea’s Great Practitioner
—
Article by Jeong Chan-ju, Novelist | Illustration by Yoo Hwan-young

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13

Not to Compare with Nor to Be like Others

The Ven. Beopjeong I Knew

—

—

Ven. Beopjeong was born in Haenam, South

I became his lay disciple when he was residing

Jeolla Province in 1932 and attended secondary

at Buril-am, that period often referred to as “Ven.

school and college in Mokpo. While he was in

Beopjeong’s golden era.” One spring day I went

college, the Korean War broke out. That tragic

down to Buril-am and stayed overnight. He gave

war, in which Koreans fought and killed other

me a Dharma name, “Muyeom” (untainted). He

Koreans, devastated him. After agonizing at great

was trying to tell me to live in the world but not to

length about violence and the innate goodness

be tainted by it.

of human beings, he took another path; he

became a Buddhist monk. Serving Ven. Hyobong

there even now, the wind chime hanging in the

as an attendant, he practiced diligently. Ven.

lower hut. Once I went to Buril-am to see Ven.

Beopjeong’s philosophy of non-possession began

Beopjeong. He told me the wind chime rang too

to germinate as he observed the way his humble

loudly the night before because of a typhoon and

teacher lived. He expounded on this concept

that he had to climb a ladder in a fierce rainstorm

of non-possession, writing: “You should be

to take it down. When I came back to Seoul, I

satisfied with just one; having two is too much.”

went to a workshop in Insa-dong and asked them

Later he published a collection of essays titled

to make a special wind chime that wouldn’t move

Non-possession (“Musoyu”), which became a

easily even in a typhoon. It was Ven. Beopjeong’s

bestseller. Many people who had previously

motto to never put off or avoid problems but to

been imprisoned in their own prison of greed and

face them here and now.

materialism, were exuberant, as if they had found

a way out. His book was loved by masses of

upon in daily life. Once a visitor told him, “You

people, regardless of their religious affiliation.

look exactly the same as when I saw you on TV.

Where is your hometown?” He answered, “Ha-ha!

To quote another teaching of Ven. Beopjeong,

Buril-am has evidence of my presence

Ven. Beopjeong found objects to meditate

“Be yourself.” He always reiterated not to

Now you see the real me; now you can believe.

compare oneself with others. Don’t try to become

My hometown… I wonder where I was I born.”

like others. Just grow into yourself. In other

words, plum trees should bear plums and rose

A photographer once took color pictures of the

bushes should bear roses.

beautiful scenery surrounding Buril-am during all

Ven. Beopjeong had a great sense of humor.

14

the four seasons and published them in a book.

Without the firm determination to sever in

Giving the book to one of his female devotees, the

half all thoughts whenever they occur, it will

venerable added, “Be sure to lock the door tight

be absolutely impossible to leave.

before you read this book. You must read it alone

W
hat is a city like? It is a suffocating

in secret.” His words suggested he was giving

space wherein asphalt, paving blocks,

her some lewd magazine, which made all sitting

high-rise buildings competing for height,

around him laugh heartily.

automobiles, exhaust gases, corrupt

politicians, crime and all kinds of trash are

When Ven. Beopjeong’s fame kept increasing,

he had to leave Buril-am, often frequented by

jumbled together. How can this kind of space

visitors, and moved to a hut deep in the mountains

sprout dreams about the future, about renewal

of Gangwon-do Province. Concerned about his

and about life?

health I tried to give him a cell phone, but he
refused, saying, “I am moving into the mountains

While the venerable stayed at his hut in Gangwon-

for the sake of my practice. I ask you not to visit

do, he established Gilsang-sa Temple, thanks to

me.” However, I later had the pleasure of having

the generous donation of a benefactor, Ms. Kim

him at my place, which gives me some comfort

Yeong-han. He established the temple in order

now. Once the venerable called to inform that he

to conduct the “Clean and Fragrant Movement”

would visit my mountain residence. Later he wrote

on a larger scale. Two years before the venerable

about the visit in the monthly magazine Saemteo.

established Gilsang-sa, he called me one day to a
certain temple. Upon arrival I found the venerable,

On my way down to the southern region,

Ms. Kim Yeong-han and 3 or 4 suited men having

I visited a friend who had left the city to

a conversation. Ms. Kim Yeong-han stated that

be close to the earth in the countryside.

she would donate on the condition that an audit

I sympathized with his intention and

system be maintained through which the temple

determination to live alone in the country and

operation could be tracked. Ven. Beopjeong stood

away from the city, a hub of consumption

up right away, saying, “There are many eminent

and emaciation. As a writer he wanted to

monks in Korea. Why don’t you find one of them

begin anew in a different land. So he built a

and donate?” In the end, Ms. Kim Yeong-han

house, planted trees, dug a pond, cultivated

came back to this unkind monk and donated her

vegetables and wrote as well. I could see that

wealth without any conditions.

he was living a very healthy life. Many people
grow tired of city life but cannot readily leave
the city because each of them has their own
excuses. If you ponder on all the different
possible circumstances, you can never leave.

15

To Act is harder than to Know
—
There is one touching episode from his last days
confined in bed. Perhaps it was a natural thing for
a Buddhist monk to do, but the venerable offered
morning and evening Buddhist ceremonies alone
on his sickbed, even when he had only a few days
to live. There is a proverb that says, “To act is

To quote another
teaching of Ven.
Beopjeong, “Be

harder than to know,” but Ven. Beopjeong showed

yourself.” He always

the way of a true practitioner who doesn’t stop

reiterated not to compare

practice until his last day. Ven. Beopjeong passed
away in March 2010. He left no assets, and the

oneself with others.

accrued hospital bills were taken care of by a

Don’t try to become like

businessman who had greatly respected him.

others. Just grow into

My novel Soseol Musoyu (“A Novel of Non-

Possession”) must have found its way to America
and been read by someone. The reader sent me a

yourself. In other words,
plum trees should bear

note that even now lingers in my mind: “I think

plums and rose bushes

Ven. Beopjeong is as great as the Dalai Lama.”

should bear roses.

The note reminds me of the proverb, “The beacon
does not shine on the foot of its base.” Only then
did it sink into my mind that a great practitioner
had come to us and then left. I realized then how
happy was the time I spent with him.

Heritage of Korea

Boudoir Culture of
Korea’s Joseon Dynasty

Meticulous Stitching
of the Bojagi

Bojagi is a cloth used to wrap bundles. It is made by sewing together scraps
left over from making clothes or blankets. As a kind of boudoir culture of the
Joseon Dynasty, a bojagi was used to wrap and carry things or to put them in
storage. The seam lines created by sewing small scraps of fabric together, the
resultant division of space and the combination of colors produce a unique
textile art. Bojagi embodies the sophisticated design sense of the Korean
women of long ago.
—
Article by Cheon Su-rim | Photos by Lee Seung-mu

16

17

Handwoven Cotton
—
Simplicity and refinement are alive here. This
rare fabric was found at an antique shop in
Gyeongju. It was then dyed crimson and black
by the artist using natural methods. Handwoven cotton, called “mumyeong,” is produced
through long hours of labor beginning, from
scutching, to spinning, to weaving. This fabric is
fast disappearing from Korea.

18

Ramie
—
This jogakbo or “patchwork
wrapping cloth” with lotus
motif was completed by first
drawing the basic design on
ramie fabric and then by cutting
and dying each piece of the
design components one by
one using natural methods.
The expression “delicate as
gossamer wings” describes
perfectly ramie fabric. Its
translucence is a characteristic
found only in Korean bojagi,
unlike the quilts or wrapping
cloths of other countries.

19

Andongpo Hemp
—
As Andongpo hemp is often called the “windinviting cloth,” this bojagi makes the most of
the natural texture of the fabric. Dyes were
intentionally not applied to preserve its simple,
original color. As the bojagi isn’t lined, sunlight
can shine through it. Andongpo’s texture can
vary from soft to coarse, depending on the
weaver. Because of this variation, when scraps
of it are sewn together to produce a patchwork
wrapping cloth, the different textures and
shades create a natural harmony. As a specialty
of the Andong area in North Gyeongsang
Province, Andongpo was regarded as so
precious during the Joseon Dynasty that it was
only offered to the king.

20

Handwoven Silk
—
A jogakbo made from remnants
of silk left over after making a
hanbok, a traditional Korean outfit.
It is a 40-year-old vintage cloth
no longer produced in Korea. Its
subdued white and ivory colors are
naturally balanced with red and
blue. Myeongju is silk handwoven
from silk thread and originally
referred to silk fabric produced in
Ming China.

Interview

Korea’s Jogakbo Artist, Kim Myeong-suk
She Never Throws Scraps Away
“Bojagi is proof that nothing should ever be carelessly thrown away as it is made by cutting
and assembling scraps of fabric left over after sewing clothes and blankets.”
So says jogakbo artist Kim Myeong-suk, who occupies a distinctive place among
Korean bojagi artists. Sometimes using rare 100-year-old cloth for her jogakbo, she finds
her vintage fabrics in antique shops or in shops that make hanbok, usually located in
traditional markets. Now beginning her 15th year as a jogakbo artist, her creations have
been shown at such places as: SOMUSHI Gallery in Gyoto, Japan; Galerie 89 in Paris,
France: Korea’s Superior Handicraft Exhibition in Europe; and at the Mae-am Tea Culture
Museum in Hadong, Korea. Bojagi is often referred to as “bo” in Korea, and people of
the Joseon Dynasty often called it “bok (lit. blessings),” close to “bo” in pronunciation.
Because bojagi is made from leftover scraps of cloth, it is a classic example of recycling.

21

Oksa
—
Natural dyes like indigo stand out in this bojagi.
The colorful feast of blue, red, orange, and
yellow are reminiscent of a spring garden in full
bloom. “Oksa” refers to the silk fabric woven
from the thread spun from special cocoons
that hold more than one silkworm. Oksa
has a coarser texture than regular silk as
both thick and thin threads randomly
alternate when weaving it. Disliked
as clothing material in the
past, Oksa is now gaining
favor because people are
beginning to appreciate
its coarse texture.

22

Ivetthe and Alanna
undoubtedly took away
many unforgettable
memories of their
encounter with Korean
culture at Jikji-sa’s
Templestay.

23

Templestay

In Search of Freedom
and Equanimity
Jikji-sa Templestay
On a clear spring day, Ivetthe Colio and Alanna Robinson visited the
peaceful temple of Jikji-sa to learn more about Korean culture and
Buddhism. The Templestay program also gave them time to relax. Saying
that just breathing pure air and seeing the beautiful scenery had given them
some sense of healing, they let go of the fatigue accumulated from their
daily lives and filled themselves with relaxation and peace.
—
Article by Lim Su-yeong | Photos by Lee Seung-mu

After enduring a harsh winter, the trees and flowers strove to put forth new buds. In
the early spring, Jikji-sa was quiet and peaceful. The yellow Cornelian cherries, said
to have blossomed a few days before, heralded the arrival of spring, imbuing the
mountain temple with the fragrance of spring.

Nestled in the folds of Mt. Hwangak-san, the historic temple of Jikji-sa is said to

have been established by Preceptor Ado in the 2nd year of King Nulji’s reign, the 19th
king of the Silla Kingdom (418 CE). After Great Master Samyeong resided at Jikjisa, its fame increased. Ivetthe had never been to a temple during her stay in Korea, but
Alanna had been to Bulguk-sa. With a touch of excitement on their faces, both of them
arrived at Jikji-sa.

Passing through the One Pillar Gate (Ilju-mun), the temple entrance that separates

the secular world from the Buddha’s world, they walked toward the Great Sun Gate

24

(Daeyang-mun). Just as the morning sun chases

Medicine Buddha were enshrined on either side

away the darkness, the Great Sun Gate is said

of Sakyamuni, a few people were performing the

to extinguish the afflictions of ignorance with

“108 prostrations.” Prostration practice embodies

wisdom. The two bubbly 20-somethings passed

the spirit of lowering oneself and serving all other

through the Great Sun Gate and the Diamond Gate

beings with love and compassion. The practice

(Geumgang-mun) on which was painted Vajrapani,

not only helps with spiritual cultivation, but also

protector of the temple. They then passed through

enhances one’s body by clearing the head and

the Gate of Heavenly Kings (Cheonwang-

warming the lower abdomen.

mun) and the Pavilion of Ten Thousand Years

(Manse-ru), finally arriving at the temple’s inner

Hall, Ivetthe and Alanna performed the Buddhist

compound.

practice of “circumambulating the pagoda,” in this

After looking around the Main Buddha

case, the three-story stone pagoda in front of the
Main Buddha Hall. Putting their palms together in
Lowering Oneself and Loving All Life

front of their chest, they slowly walked around the

—

pagoda. Upon finishing, Alanna said, “I walked

Ivetthe and Alanna participated in Jikji-sa’s

slowly counter-clockwise, one step at a time,

Templestay program along with ten Koreans. As

with joined palms. The venerable monk said to

neither of them had a good command of Korean,

concentrate my mind during circumambulation

they were provided with a translator. After,

and to pray whatever I wanted to pray or to have

changing into simple but comfortable temple

peace of mind. So I tried to remove the jumbled

uniforms, participants attended the opening

thoughts within my head. At first it was difficult

ceremony and then were taught temple etiquette.

to concentrate. However, the more I walked

around the pagoda, the more I felt calm. It was a

Smiling shyly, Ivetthe said, “I cannot speak

Korean very well and I lack a basic knowledge

wonderful experience.”

of Buddhism and temples. So even with the

translator’s help, I had a hard time understanding

“I learned that I should greet people I meet in

the instructions. Also, since I am not used to

the temple compound with joined palms. The

sitting cross-legged, my lower back began to ache.

posture of joining palms is called “hapjang” in

However, when I collected my mind and sat still,

Korea and is said to resemble the flower bud of

I began to feel at ease and had the sensation of

a lotus. Hapjang embodies the ideal singular

healing.”

focus of mind and the oneness of self and others.

This mindset also respects and cherishes others

Bathed in the daylight of spring, Ivetthe

Ivetthe also shared what she felt, saying,

and Alanna looked around the Jikji-sa temple

as oneself. Though I don’t know much about

compound. In the temple’s Main Buddha Hall

Buddhism, I found out that Buddhism regards all

(Dae-ung-jeon), where statues of Amitabha and

people as precious beings.”

25

Interview with Ven. Yeo-un

A Time to Clear Your Mind and
Empty Your Head
For foreigners, a
Templestay experience
is definitely an unusual
experience: getting up at
3 a.m. to offer a Buddhist
ceremony, having
monastic meals, doing
meditation or prostration practice, making
lotus lanterns and watching the sounding
of the four Dharma instruments. All these
may seem unfamiliar but are nonetheless
interesting experiences. It is good to stay in
a temple for a couple of days and learn the
profound teachings of the Buddha. However,
I urge all participants to shed any sense of
burden about experiencing something new
and unfamiliar. All should take time to reflect
upon themselves, something they forget to do
while living hurried lives. Just resting in the
good mountain environment alone can help
them to empty their heads and regain their
presence of mind. If you can do this, you will
find the Templestay experience more than
worthy of your time.

1
2

3

1. Ivetthe and Alanna are engrossed in
putting another stone on top of the
“stacked-stone pagodas.”
2. Praying while circumambulating the
three-story stone pagoda
3. Calming their minds during meditation

Ivetthe Colio is an American
who has been in Korea for
six months. She teaches
English at a middle school in
Gyeongsan. She participated in
this Templestay mostly out of
curiosity because she had never
been to a Korean temple.
Alanna Robinson is a
Canadian who teaches English
at an elementary school in
Gyeongsan. She participated in
this Templestay to experience
Korean culture and Buddhism.

26

Jikji-sa Templestay Schedule
Day 1
Registration
and provision of
temple uniforms
14:30

Temple etiquette

15:00

Dinner / Watch the
sounding of the
Dharma instruments
17:00

Evening Buddhist
ceremony

18:00

Watch a video
(The Miracle of 0.2
Pyeong)
19:00

Conversation
over tea

20:00

Bedtime

20:30

27

Templestay, a Journey into Myself
—
The two women directed their steps toward the Vairocana
Hall (Biro-jeon), also called the “One-thousand Buddha Hall”
(Cheonbul-jeon) because 1,000 Buddha statues are enshrined
there. The flower-pattern lattice doors on which chestnut brown,
ochre and yellow-green flowers were intricately carved, drew
their eyes. Inside the Vairocana Hall, hundreds of lotus lanterns
hung from the ceiling, and underneath them, 1,000 jade Buddha
statues were enshrined. Upon close examination of the statues,
there is one Buddha statue standing upright in the center of them.
Legend says that if you make eye contact with this Buddha statue
after entering the Vairocana Hall, you will conceive a child.

Praising the beauty of Jikji-sa, Ivetthe said, “Jikji-sa is a

truly beautiful temple. I can imagine how magnificent it will
become in the summer when the trees and plants grow lush

1

leaves and in the fall when the leaves turn into colorful autumn

2

foliage. When I breathe the pure air here and see this gorgeous
scenery, I can feel what peace is like.”

1. In temple compounds it is customary
to greet people with joined palms.
Called “hapjang,” joining palms
symbolizes collecting scattered
thoughts into one and also that you
and I are one.
2. Beautiful flowers carved on the doors
of Cheonbul-jeon Hall

For dinner they had rice, a few simple side dishes and

fragrant mugwort soup (ssukguk). They put only as much as they
could eat into their bowls and washed their dishes afterward.
Then, the participants directed their footsteps to the temple’s
Bell Pavilion. After listening to an explanation about the four
Dharma instruments, the temple bell, cloud-shaped gong,

Day 2
Wake up

03:00

Seon meditation /
Morning Buddhist
ceremony
03:30

Walking
meditation in
the forest
05:00

Breakfast
(Baru
gongyang)
06:00

Communal
work

07:00

Pilgrimage to
Myeongjeok-am

08:30

Introduction to
Jikji-sa

09:30

Write
reviews and
impressions
10:30

Tidy up

11:00

Lunch

11:30

28

1
2

1. Sharing conversation over tea with
Ven. Yeo-un
2. The Main Buddha Hall and the two
three-story stone pagodas at Jikji-sa

29

wooden fish and Dharma drum, each of the participants had a
turn to sound the temple bell. As the bell’s sound permeated the
temple compound, it relaxed the participants’ bodies and minds.

Ven. Yeo-un, the guiding teacher of the Templestay,

prepared a special tea ceremony for the two foreign participants
who didn’t understand Korean well. Unlike Ivetthe, who had
never experienced a tea ceremony, Alanna, had attended a tea
ceremony in Japan. She followed Ven. Yeo-un’s directions well,
gently holding the teacup of fragrant lotus tea with her right hand
while supporting the teacup from below with her left hand.

Sipping the tea, Ivetthe said, “I usually drank coffee in

What to See and Eat
around Jikji-sa
Gimcheon International Ceramics Museum
—
This museum features
beautiful pottery
from around the
world following its
developmental timeline
from earthenware, to pottery and to porcelain.
To help with viewers’ understanding, the
museum is equipped with a video room that
shows videos on the pottery making process.
Tel. 054-430-6086

America, but I began to drink green tea more often in Korea.
This lotus tea has a deeper aroma and taste than green tea. It’s
really good!”

The time these two spent at Jikji-sa was filled with strange

experiences. They drank tea with clumsy hands, wore temple
uniforms for the first time, learned how to join their palms in
hapjang, practiced Seon meditation and experienced monastic
meals. They were hesitant and awkward at first, not knowing
what to do and sometimes giggled at themselves. Still they were
able to escape the stress that had weighed them down and were

Baeksu Literature Museum
—
This museum was
established to
commemorate the life
and achievements of
the poet Baeksu Jeong
Wan-yeong and to provide working spaces for
Korea’s literary talent. Here one can see various
photographs that give a glimpse into the life of
the late poet. His actual writing study has also
been recreated here. Visitors can also make
rubbings of his poems from woodblocks to keep
as a souvenir. Tel. 054-436-6834

able to regain an inner calm. They experienced peace of mind
and felt liberated through their “encounter with the self within.”
Perhaps that’s why a Templestay is often called “a journey into
myself.”

Though it was a rather short time, Ivetthe and Alanna

undoubtedly took away many unforgettable memories of their
encounter with Korean culture at Jikji-sa’s Templestay.

Jikji-sa Templestay
Telephone
+82-54-429-1716
Website
http://Jikjisa.or.kr

A Mouthful of the Essence of Spring,
Sanchae Bibimbap
—
In front of Jikji-sa, visitors
can find more than 30
restaurants specializing
in sanchae bibimbap (rice
topped with mountain
greens). When you mix the rice and such healthy
greens as chwi-namul (edible wild aster), gosari
(bracken fern stems), mung bean sprouts and
bellflower root together with gochujang (red
pepper paste) and sesame oil, a spoonful will
fill your mouth with the essence of spring. Side
dishes also consist of rare mountain delicacies
such as: seasoned cham-namul (Pimpinella
brachycarpa), acorn jelly, grilled deodeok
(Codonopsis lanceolata) and dureup (edible
shoots of fatsia).

Temple Food

Consuming the
Essence of Spring
Packed with nutrients like vitamins, calcium and minerals, spring herbs readily
relieve spring fatigue often experienced by many people. Just one bite fills the
mouth with the sweet and bitter taste of spring. Why not infuse your body with
the healthy energy of spring by preparing a variety of spring herbs?
—
The cooking and food styling of Ven. Seonggong from Daeseong-am
Hermitage of Beomeo-sa Temple
Article by Kim Gyeong-mi | Photos by Choe Bae-mun

Spring Herbs Stimulate the Palate
—
When the gentle light of spring washes over us, we naturally
seek out light, refreshing foods to satisfy our appetite. The
venerable bhikkhuni Seonggong believes that nothing can beat
spring herbs as health-enhancing food. She often spends her
spring days wandering Korea’s mountains and fields to collect
herbs.

After becoming a Buddhist nun at Beomeo-sa at the tender

age of nineteen, she learned how to prepare temple food while
cooking for older monastics and her teachers. She then began
to practice meditation at a Seon center. She is now in charge of
preparing food for the Buddhist nuns, and sometimes monks,
who come to Daeseong-am to further their practice. She says of
her work:

30

31

Ingredients

2 cups rice (for two people)
A few ginger plant branches
30 grams of fresh ginger plant sprouts

Directions

1. Soak uncooked rice in water for 30
minutes and drain.
2. Cut ginger plant branches and boil them in
water about an hour.
3. Put soaked rice in a stone pot and add 1
liter of the broth from step 2.
4. Put ginger plant sprouts on top and cook
until the rice is tender.
5. Enjoy the rice with seasoned soy sauce.

Rice Filled with the Taste of Spring

Stone-pot Rice with Ginger Plant Sprouts
With its ability to blend with any food ingredients, rice can transform itself in numerous ways. Cooked with
various seasonal ingredients like beans, adzuki beans, sorghum, corn, mushrooms and the leafy herb “gondre”
(cirsium setidens), rice becomes a delicacy full of flavor and nutrition. In the early spring it is pleasing to
make a special delicacy by cooking rice with new ginger plant sprouts and the broth produced by boiling
ginger plant stems in water.

32

I always think of how to make delicious food for the nuns
who visit Daeseong-am. Even the same foods will have a
different taste and texture depending on how it is cooked,
butterbur, for example. In spring the tender butterbur leaves
are great for making “ssambap” (rice wrapped in greens),
while in summer, its stalks make a flavorful side dish.
Butterbur stalks can be boiled and peeled, then fried with
powdered perilla seed.
Ven. Seonggong tries to invent new dishes by using different
cooking methods to prepare herbs and vegetables. Some
techniques are: “muchim” (to mix with seasonings); “jorim”
(to simmer in various sauces); “bokkeum” (to sautée with
seasonings); and “jjim” (to steam or make casserole).

Eating Foods in Season Revives Our Energy
—
In spring it is easy to find healthy foods because they are
abundant. Ven. Seonggong says that eating foods in season
restores our vitality and that temple food is food adapted from
nature and close to nature. Sharing her joy in making temple
food, she says:
If the nuns residing and practicing here at Daeseong-am can
maintain their health with the seasonal ingredients I use,
that alone will make me happy. I will live my life in service
making healthy food for monks and nuns. I will live today
as I did yesterday, and I will live tomorrow as I lived today.
Saying that making delicious and healthy food for others is
the Buddhist practice that gives her the greatest joy, Ven.
Seonggong walked toward the temple kitchen holding a basket
full of spring herbs. Her demeanor radiated warmth toward all
human beings.

33

Ingredients

10 leaves each of dogtooth violet and
butterbur.
400 grams steamed rice
Ssamjang (2 tablespoons of doenjang, 1/2
minced green pepper, 1 tablespoon red chili
powder, 1 teaspoon perilla oil, 3 shitake
mushrooms and 2 pieces of kelp)

Directions

1. Wash and cook the rice.
2. To remove toxins from the dogtooth violet
leaves, soak them in water for a day after
boiling.
3. Parboil butterbur leaves and soak them in
water for two hours.
4. Make bite-size morsels of rice by
squeezing them in your hand.
5. Put the rice morsels on the leaves of
dogtooth violet and butterbur and wrap
them in neat shapes.
6. Serve with ssamjang.

How to Make Ssamjang

1. Make broth by soaking the shitake
mushrooms and kelp in water.
2. Put doenjang into the broth from step 1
and mix in minced green pepper.
3. Mix in red chili powder and perilla oil.

Bite-Size Morsels of Wrapped Rice Delight the Palate

Dogtooth Violet and Butterbur Leaves
Flowering in the alpine regions in early spring, dogtooth violets not only produce beautiful flowers, but their
leaves are a great food ingredient. When blanched, their tender leaves are great to wrap around rice. As a
plant naturally found in mountains and fields, butterbur also revives one’s appetite in spring with its slightly
bitter taste and unique aroma. Their small and tender leaves are also good for wrapping rice. Or they can be
parboiled to make a vegetable side dish.

Temple Diary

Beautiful Memories of a
Yongjoo-sa Templestay
On one drizzly spring day, I traveled to Yongjoo-sa Temple to participate in
their two-day Templestay program, along with Kate Kirkpatrick from Ireland
and Kate Miller from Canada. I wanted to introduce them to a one-of-a-kind
Korean cultural experience. It was a very special experience for all of us that
we will always cherish.
—
Article by Lee Hyo-min | Photos by Choe Bae-mun

Traditional Korean Buddhist temples, usually located high in the mountains, couldn’t
look more fabulous, but they have one drawback; they’re hard to get to. One might
think that if they were nearer and easier to get to, one would visit them right away. For
those who fantasize about such a temple, I’d like to recommend Yongjoo-sa, located in
Hwaseong, Gyeonggi-do Province, on the outskirts of Seoul.

Yongjoo-sa was restored by the 22nd Joseon King, Jeongjo, when his Buddhist

faith united with his filial piety for his late father, the Crown Prince Sado. With
its theme of “filial piety,” a Yongjoo-sa Templestay will provide not only cultural
experiences transcending your religious affiliations but, also a peaceful time for
healing by enticing you to study history and reflect on your own past.

34

35

In deep communion
with nature on the
forest path.
Stilling our breath,
we listened to the
sounds of nature.

36

Leave Nothing in Your Bowls at
Baru Gongyang
—
The rain, which began in the early morning,

showed no sign of letting up. About two hours

compound earlier than usual. The evening meal

after we left Seoul, the three of us arrived at

was served in the style of a formal monastic

Yongjoo-sa’s Filial Piety Cultural Institute where

meal called baru gongyang, which embodies

blooming umbrella flowers (Syneilesis palmate)

the spirit of equanimity, harmony and ecology.

greeted us in profusion. In addition to us, the

Participants take only as much as they can eat into

Templestay participants included 25 foreign

their four bowls and they must eat everything,

students from Ajou University’s International

leaving nothing. I had seen baru gongyang on

Graduate School and members of a student club

television before, but this was my first time to try

named “Nubi-ajou,” a group of Ajou University

it firsthand. Holding a bowl in my hand, I tried to

undergraduates who gathered to do whatever

eat quietly, which naturally made me concentrate

they can to help with the foreign students’ stay in

on myself. Kate Miller surprised me by saying,

Korea.

“I was impressed by the Venerable when he said

that even the water we use to rinse the inside of

Changing into temple uniforms, we first

The rain brought darkness to the temple

learned basic temple etiquette, then introduced

the bowls after eating is considered a part of the

ourselves and exchanged quick nods of

meal.”

acknowledgment. Then we took a tour of the

temple. It would have been better if it had not been

Placing a paper cup upside down, we glued 14

raining, but to walk around the temple compound

brightly-colored paper petals and 5 green sepals

protected by umbrellas had its own charm. While

on the cup one by one. We finished our lanterns,

touring the Gate of Four Heavenly Kings, the Red

infusing them with our aspirations for the year.

Gate commemorating filial piety, the Sammun
Gate, the five-story stone pagoda, Cheonbo-ru
Pavilion and the Main Buddha Hall, I reflected on
the sorrowful piety of King Jeongjo who felt sorry
for his late father who had never been crowned
king, despite being the crown prince.

After dinner, we made small lotus lanterns.

37

Interview with Ven. Daehyeon

Humility Learned from Prostrating
Oneself Engenders True Happiness

As a formal monastic meal, baru gongyang stipulates
that one should take only as much food as one can eat
and eat all of it, leaving the bowl clean.

In prostrating ourselves,
our knees, elbows and
forehead touch the earth.
We can learn from this
that we cannot raise
others without lowering
ourselves first. Only
when we shed our arrogance and repent of
our folly, can respect well up in our hearts.
Human beings are part of nature. When
we open our six sense organs properly
and use them well, we can feel joy, peace
and happiness on another dimension. Try
minimizing the noise you make when you
walk or eat and concentrate on your inner
self and on nature. You will feel fulfillment
and liberation.

Diligently making lotus lanterns by
gluing petals one by one on a paper cup
Choe Seong-gyu, a Volunteer Interpreter

Yongjoo-sa has opened its
doors wide to foreigners.
They can participate
not only in regular
Templestay programs
held on weekends, but
foreigners can also apply
for a Templestay program as a group at a
time convenient for them. Because many
devotees of Yongjoo-sa donate their talents,
foreigners can receive quality interpretation
service at any time. Sometimes even I find
Buddhist terms difficult, but when I pay
attention to the Venerable’s remarks and
translate them, I find myself to be the first
one being touched by these remarks. That’s
why I work as a volunteer interpreter as often
as possible.

38

108 Prostrations Boost Your Confidence
—
At 3 a.m., the temple was resolute and solemn.
Walking toward Cheonbo-ru, where the morning
Buddhist ceremony would be held, participants
walked in silent and prudent steps so as not to
disturb the darkness. After the ceremony, they
recited the Parental Benevolence Sutra, a Buddhist
sutra that explains the greatness and depth of
parental kindness and expounds on how we should
repay it. Then, participants sat in two rows facing
each other and offered 108 prostrations to the
person sitting across from them.

Kate Kirkpatrick shared her feelings, saying,

“At first, I was not comfortable doing the 108
prostrations. But upon finishing, I realized it
was not that difficult at all. While doing my
prostrations, I took the essence of the Parental
Benevolence Sutra to my heart and prayed for my
family.” Her remarks reminded me of my own
mother who must have offered 108 prostrations
many times to pray for me so that I could
successfully enter a university or get a job. I was

Lee Hyo-min (Center of photo)

“The three of us are different in appearance and
nationality, but we marvel at how similar we are in
many respects, including age, hobbies and thoughts.
I want to live a more exciting and passionate life
in 2013. I had a very special experience at the
Yongjoo-sa Templestay, along with my cherished
friends who all gave me great support. It will
remain a good memory in my heart.”

Kate Kirkpatrick (Right of photo)

“Templestay was a unique experience. I’ve never
slept on the floor using a mattress and a blanket.
Though it felt hard, I was comfortable. Especially
the 108 prostrations, conducted following prerecorded English instructions, were finished much
sooner than I expected, which surprised me.”

choked with emotion for a moment.

After breakfast, we went for a walk up Mt.

Hwa-san, located behind Yongjoo-sa. Due to the
rain from the day before, the moist earth felt soft
under my feet. Walking the forest path in silence,
I breathed in the clean air, listened to the birds
chirping from afar, and felt the soft breeze caress
my face. In deep communion with nature, I felt
cleansed both in body and mind.

Kate Miller (Left of photo)

“Baru gongyang, the 108 prostrations and our
conversation with the monk over tea were
impressive programs for me. Amongst all, the
venerable monk seemed to have a philosophy and
insight that could instantly solve various daily
problems, big or small. The conversation we shared
today over tea will remain with me for a long
time.”

39

Walking toward Cheonbo-ru,
where the morning Buddhist
ceremony would be held,
participants walked in silent and
prudent steps so as not to disturb
the darkness.

41

Conversation with Ven. Jeongho over Tea
—
When our walking meditation through the forest was over,
a conversation over tea with Ven. Jeongho, the abbot of
Yongjoo-sa, awaited us. We first learned how to drink
the fragrant tea properly. According to the Venerables’s
instructions, we should support the bottom of the teacup with
the left hand, hold the teacup with the right hand, and drink
the tea in three sips.

Kate Miller shared her impressions, saying, “The

Venerable said that we get attached to the constantly changing
environment and this arouses suffering. And if we haven’t let
go of the attachment, we don’t’ have true love. His remarks
resonate in my heart.” I was a bit worried whether she was
able to follow the programs well, even with the help of
an interpreter. After all, the content was not easy, even for
Koreans. She alleviated my worries with a bright smile and
a nod. I was amazed at how philosophy and ideas could be
exchanged between different nationalities and in spite of
language barriers through a conversation over tea.

My little cultural adventure with my two foreign friends

1

2
3

was almost over. It must have been not easy for them to sleep
on the floor instead of a bed, or to have to eat every morsel
of food, leaving nothing. However, my two Kates enjoyed
the whole experience with bright smiles. Thanks to them
I was also able to have a new Templestay experience and
experienced much happiness in helping them.

1. Reciting the Parental
Benevolence Sutra, participants
reflect on respect and gratitude
for one’s parents.
2. 3. Conversation over tea with
Ven.Jeongho.

Yongjoo-sa Templestay
Telephone
+82-31-235-6886
Website
http://yongjoosa.or.kr

42

The Light of Spring Flows along the
River on a Flowery Breeze

A Spring Journey along the
Seomjin-gang River

43

Journeys

Spring lasts awhile along the Seomjin-gang River. After some idle delay,
spring finally arrives at Maehwa Maeul (Flowering Plum Village) in
Gwangyang; and the flowers around Gurye and Hadong explode with color.
Over the low stone walls of country houses, Cornelian cherries blossom
and fade. Along the upper slopes toward the temples, a gust of wind sets
off a shower of cherry blossom petals. Tempted by this flowery breeze, I
embark on a spring journey along the Seomjin-gang.
—
Article by Lee Gang, Travel Columnist | Photos by Ha Ji-gwon

44

Decorated with spring flowers, the Seomjin-gang looks both coy
and dazzling. The turquoise green water of the river, the silver
sands, the blue sky and the flowering tree-lined roads manifest
perfect harmony, a beautiful depiction of spring. My spring
journey along the Seomjin-gang begins at Maehwa Maeul in
Gwangyang, winds through Cornelian Cherry Village at Gurye,
and ends at the 4km cherry blossom road leading to Ssanggyesa Temple in Hadong. The first light of spring shines down
on Seomjin Maeul, one of the major villages on the Seomjingang, famous for its flowers. The opening of the plum blossoms
here, home to one of the most beautiful plum blossom groves in
Korea, heralds the arrival of spring. Walking along the river near
Provincial Route 861, a small village nestled in the foothills of
the mountains comes into view, enveloped by a pinkish-white
plum blossom grove, like a misty veil. The scenery exudes all
the quaint beauty of an old-fashioned country landscape.

The Simple Beauty of Korea’s Countryside
—
At the mouth of the Seomjin-gang, about the time the red plum
blossoms open their buds, spring advances onward toward
Gurye. In the foothills of Mt. Jiri-san, Cornelian cherries open
their tiny petals, as small as chicks’ toenails, in the wake of a
spring breeze. The most gorgeous scenery is found here at the
Cornelian Cherry Village located in Wian-ri, Sandong-myeon,
Gurye-gun in South Jeolla Province. On entering the village, I
find tens of thousands of Cornelian cherry trees, from dozens to
hundreds of years old, their dazzling yellow flowers blooming
along the stone wall-lined roads.
Moving along, following the flowery breeze, I arrive in
Hadong. Walking down National Route 19 that runs along the
river, I am enchanted by the spring scenery, infused with life
by the river. The blue water of the Seomjin-gang and its silver
sandy beach create a tableau through which a raft drifts lazily

46

An Overnight Stay at a Mountain Temple:
Ssanggye-sa Templestay
—
As an experiential program favored
by visitors and tourists in Korea,
a Templestay provides one the
opportunity to stay in a traditional
Korean temple and renew one’s self.
Ssanggye-sa operates two types of
Templestay programs, one for rest and another to provide a cultural
experience. Participants can experience the daily life and practice
of monks by attending a predawn Buddhist ceremony, practicing
Seon (Zen) meditation and experiencing baru gongyang (traditional
monastic meals). The programs encourage inner tranquility and
revive a participant’s life force.

Cheongmaesil Farm at Gwangyang
—
Cheongmaesil Farm, located in
Gwangyang, is also a must-see. It is
renowned for its green plums, called
“maesil” (Prunus mume), fruits which
develop after the plum blossoms fall.
More than 2,000 mega-size earthen
pots fill the farm’s yard. This scene alone is enough to open and
broaden the heart of any visitor. Visitors can experience many
things firsthand here, including the preservation of maesil in sugar.
With its famous slogan, “We have everything you need and nothing
you don’t need,” Hwagae Jangteo is a marketplace frequented by
people from both Hadong in Gyeongsang-do Province and Gurye
in Jeolla-do Province. Here, market day is held every five days, on
dates ending with a “1” or a “6” (1, 6, 11, 16, etc.). While you are in
Hadong, do not miss Toji-maeul, located in Pyeongsa-ri, Agyangmyeon. As the setting for the epic Korean novel Toji, it offers a
glimpse of a traditional Korean farming village and the culture of
times past.

Jaecheop-guk Soup from the Seomjin-gang River
—
At Gurye, enrich your dining experience by
having sanchae (mountain greens) picked
from Mt. Jiri-san and chamge maeuntang
(spicy stew cooked with Chinese mitten crabs).
Some noted restaurants serving the latter are:
Dongbaek Sikdang (055-883-2439), Jirisan
Hoegwan (061-782-3124) and Jeonwon Garden
(061-782-4733). At Hadong you must try the
jaecheop-guk first. On National Route 19 are many restaurants that
specialize in this. The refreshing taste of its clear broth is known to
relieve hangovers. Here are some suggested restaurants: Haong
Chon (055-883-8261), Geumyang Garden (055-884-1580), Buheung
Jaecheop Sikdang (055-884-3903) and Seom Maeul (055-882-3580).

47

by. The mountains and the river blend together,

blossom petals.

intertwined with people’s lives, to create a

picturesque beauty.

leading to Ssanggye-sa. One thing I can’t miss

in Hadong is the fragrance of wild tea. Walking

The local people call the Seomjin-gang

Tea houses dot the “cherry blossom road”

“the River of Mothers.” That is because of the

up the road, I see wild tea trees growing in the

industrious local women who gather at the river

crevices between the rocks, their aroma teasing

when the waters recede to collect jaecheop

my nostrils. Ssanggye-sa, a 1,200-year-old

(Corbicula fluminea), a kind of freshwater clam.

temple, was the first temple in Korea to grow

They dig them out by raking the riverbed with a

tea, as the Hwagae Valley on Mt. Jiri-san had

“geo-raeng-i,” a Korean tool resembling a rake.

a suitable environment to grow tea. Quenching

The way these women work hard all day, standing

my thirst with a cup of refreshing tea, I leisurely

waist-deep in the river, reveals the life of river

walk around Ssanggye-sa. The temple operates

people as it is. The river gives its all, and the

a Templestay program that gives participants the

people commune with it at the riverside, thankful

opportunity to experience monastic daily life and

for its bounty.

Buddhist practice. A Templestay might be the
ideal conclusion to one’s journey; it dissipates the
fatigue from travel and provides a Korean cultural

Toward the Four Kilometer Cherry Blossom

experience.

Road, Permeated with the Aroma of Tea

—

colored hair ribbon, spring on the Seomjin-gang

Like a shy maiden loosening her multi-

Leaving National Route 19, I direct my steps

is alive with color. My spring journey to Seomjin-

toward Ssanggye-sa Temple. At the temple

gang has given me the chance to enjoy the perfect

entrance, where the main river and Hwagae-

harmony of flowers, mountains and the river,

cheon Stream meet, there is the Hwagae Jangteo

and to spend one night at a mountain temple

marketplace. The 4km road from Hwagae Jangteo

permeated with the mystical aroma of tea.

to Ssanggye-sa is bordered on both sides with

The journey has filled my body and mind with

cherry trees in full bloom. Praised as the “most

the energy of spring; the life force courses

beautiful road in Korea,” the road is lined with

through me.

over 1,200 cherry trees ranging in age from 50-70
years. Frequently featured in dramas and movies,
the road is also called the “wedding road,” as local
legend says that if a couple walks the road under a
shower of petals, they will live happily ever after.
That’s why numerous lovers frequent this road in
the spring when the air is filled with falling cherry

Ssanggye-sa Templestay
Telephone
+82-55-883-1901
Website
http://ssanggyesa.net

Templestay Q&A

Information to
Enhance Your
Templestay
Experience
Monastic culture can often
be puzzling, but once you are
acquainted with it, you will feel
more at home. Here are some
basic facts that will improve
your Templestay experience.

Q. What should I bring to a Templestay?
A. Most temples provide comfortable uniforms for
the Templestay participants. Bring your toiletries, a
towel and socks. As most temples are located in the
mountains, you’d better wear comfortable sneakers
or hiking boots. In the early morning, the mountain air
can be chilly. Bring an extra jacket and scarf to keep
warm.

Q. What’s the difference between a Templestay for rest
and a Templestay for cultural experience?
A. “Templestay for cultural experience” refers to a set
program prepared by each temple. The contents
of this program can vary by season, as well as the
characteristics and location of each temple. Some
regional programs include natural dyeing techniques,
making temple food, lectures and meditation practice.
A “Templestay for rest” is a freestyle program in which
participants just observe the Buddhist ceremonies and
meal times and use the rest of their time as they wish.
This is the most popular program and often attended
by people experiencing stress.

Q. I have a different faith. Should I attend the Buddhist
ceremonies?
A. A Templestay is open to all, not as a religious
experience but as an experience in traditional Korean
culture. These days, “Templestay programs for people
of differing religions” are often held, hopefully to
promote inter-religious understanding. If you feel
uncomfortable about performing prostrations on
religious grounds, you may remain seated quietly
during ceremonies.

Q. What are the shower and restroom facilities like?
A. Temples designated as national Templestay operators
have flush toilets and showers. Newly constructed
Templestay buildings provide cleaner and better
amenities than some commercial accommodations.

48

Spring Templestay in Korea

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Spring Templestay in Korea