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The document describes the Medieval and Early Modern Embroidery Thesaurus (MAEME), which was created in 2015 as a controlled vocabulary for indexing embroidered objects from the 7th-16th centuries in Europe, the Middle East, North Africa and Eastern Europe. It contains preferred and non-preferred terms linked by relationships like USE, UF, BT, NT and RT. The thesaurus provides hierarchical listings of terms organized by facets like materials, objects, stitches and styles to aid indexing and retrieval of information about embroidered works.

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© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 1 Medieval and Early Modern Embroidery Thesaurus About the Medieval and Early Modern Embroidery Thesaurus - MAEME The Medieval and Early Modern Embroidery Thesaurus (MAEME) is a controlled vocabulary primarily designed as an indexing tool for professionals working in the textiles history and preservation area, specifically embroidered objects, and secondly, as a searching aid for the non-professional retrieving information about embroidered objects covered by the temporal and geographical scope of the thesaurus. For the purposes of this thesaurus embroidery is defined as the handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials with needle and thread (Wikipedia, 2015). MAEME was developed in 2015 by Michelle Watson. It was created using the 1 to 1 software package by Active Classification Solutions (v. 8.0.0.1). The current published version of the thesaurus is Version 1.1 – 27 November 2015. Scope The MAEME Thesaurus does not attempt to present universal or comprehensive coverage of all textiles concepts, descriptors or time periods. Rather it is limited to the period from the 7th century to the 16th century CE and covers the geographical areas of Europe, the Middle East, North Africa and Eastern Europe. A key aim of the thesaurus is to assist indexing and retrieval by providing descriptors for individual subject terms which have multiple entry vocabulary terms in common use. Terms and relationships MAEME contains terms linked by a reference structure. The two categories of terms in MAEME are:  Preferred terms (also called descriptors), which are terms used in indexing to represent subjects found in the literature.(APAIS, 2009)  Non-preferred terms, provide entry terms to direct the indexer or user to the preferred term. They include terms which are synonymous with preferred terms.(APAIS, 2009) The following reference structure is used to link terms in MAEME: Abbreviation Reference Meaning USE Use Indicates the preferred term (descriptor) e.g. Assisi work USE Voided work UF Used for Indicates the non-preferred terms which the synonymous preferred term covers, e.g. Voided work UF Assisi work BT Broader Term Represents a broader hierarchical concept than the concept represented by the descriptor, e.g. Voided work BT Monochrome NT Narrower Term Represents a narrower hierarchical concept than the concept represented by the descriptor, e.g. Monochrome NT Blackwork, Monochrome NT Voided work RT Related Term A Related Term is a descriptor that is neither equivalent (synonymous) nor hierarchical (broader or narrower) but which is conceptually associated with another descriptor. The relationship is symmetrical, in that the relationship is represented in both associated descriptors’ structures (Victoria Online, 2014)., e.g. Coif RT Blackwork; Blackwork RT Coif SN Scope Note Scope notes indicate the meaning or application of descriptors in the thesaurus but are not intended as definitive definitions of the term.
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 2 Descriptors Descriptors are included in the thesaurus based on the predicted frequency of use of the terms to describe information objects andtheneedtoprovideuseful terminology relatedtothe specialized subject domain. Subjects central to the information objects indexed in MAEME are represented by relatively specific descriptors (APAIS, 2009). Examples of Listings Hierarchical Listing STITCHES FACET Counted stitches Subject Brick stitch Subject Long armed cross stitch Subject Tent stitch Subject Freeform stitches Subject Chain stitch Subject Couching Subject Laidwork Subject Surface couching Subject Underside couching Subject Alphabetical Listing Laidwork Subject Use for technique in which thread is laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different thread to create a solid block of stitching. Broader term Couching Related term Hangings Linen fabric Linen thread Polychrome embroidery Stem stitch Wallhangings Woollen fabric Woollen thread Non-preferred Bayeux stitch Bayeux work Laid and couched work References Descriptors Needlework: an illustrated history / edited by Harriet Bridgeman and Elizabeth Drury. (1978). New York: Paddington Press. Clabburn, P. (1976). The needleworker's dictionary. London: Macmillan. Schuette, M. (1964). A pictorial history of embroidery. New York: Praeger. Thesaurus Construction APAIS. (2009). The APAIS thesaurus. Retrieved 23 Nov, 2015, from http://www.nla.gov.au/apais/thesaurus/about.html Victoria Online. (2014). VicGovAu Thesaurus. Retrieved 24 Nov, 2015, from http://www.vic.gov.au/blog/manuals- tookits/victoria-online-thesaurus/ Wikipedia. (2015). Embroidery. Retrieved 25 Nov, 2015, from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Embroidery
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 3 MEAME Hierarchical listing FORMS FACET Article Subject Book Subject Drawing Subject Pattern Subject Photograph Subject Report Subject MATERIALS FACET Fabric Subject Nonwoven fabric Subject Felt Subject Leather Subject Parchment Subject Woven fabric Subject Linen fabric Subject Silk fabric Subject Velvet fabric Subject Woollen fabric Subject Thread Subject Linen thread Subject Metallic thread Subject Gold thread Subject Silver thread Subject Silk thread Subject Woollen thread Subject OBJECTS FACET Clothing Subject Gloves Subject Headwear Subject Coif Subject Forehead cloth Subject Nightcap Subject Mantle Subject Pouch Subject Shirt Subject Shoes Subject Tunic Subject Vestments Subject Alb Subject Chasuble Subject Cope Subject Dalmatic Subject Maniple Subject Mitre Subject Stole Subject Tunicle Subject Decor Subject Antependium Subject Bedcover Subject Cushion Subject Hangings Subject
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 4 Banner Subject Bedhangings Subject Wallhangings Subject Tablecarpet Subject STITCHES FACET Counted stitches Subject Brick stitch Subject Long armed cross stitch Subject Tent stitch Subject Freeform stitches Subject Chain stitch Subject Couching Subject Laidwork Subject Surface couching Subject Underside couching Subject Double running stitch Subject Satin stitch Subject Split stitch Subject Stem stitch Subject STYLES FACET Applied work Subject Goldwork Subject Monochrome embroidery Subject Blackwork Subject Opus Teutonicum Subject Voided work Subject Polychrome embroidery Subject Opus Anglicanum Subject Or nue Subject Slips Subject TOOLS FACET Cutting tools Subject Knives Subject Shears Subject Frames Subject Slate frame Subject Stitching tools Subject Needles Subject Thimbles Subject Wax Subject
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 5 MEAME Alphabetical listing Alb Subject Broader term Vestments Related term Linen thread Altar frontal Use Preferred term Antependium Antependium Subject Broader term Decor Related term Metallic thread Opus Anglicanum Or nue Polychrome embroidery Silk fabric Split stitch Non-preferred Altar frontal Applied work Subject Broader term Styles Related term Banner Decor Felt Gold thread Hangings Nonwoven fabric Pouch Surface couching Tunic Wallhangings Woollen fabric Non-preferred Applique Applique Use Preferred term Applied work Article Subject Broader term Forms
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 6 Assisi work Use Preferred term Monochrome embroidery Voided work Banner Subject Broader term Hangings Related term Applied work Goldwork Silk fabric Split stitch Velvet fabric Bayeux stitch Use Preferred term Laidwork Bayeux work Use Preferred term Laidwork Bedcover Subject Broader term Decor Related term Couching Felt Nonwoven fabric Split stitch Stem stitch Woollen fabric Woollen thread Bedhangings Subject Broader term Hangings Related term Couching Felt Gold thread Polychrome embroidery Slips Split stitch Stem stitch Tent stitch Woollen fabric Woollen thread Blackwork Subject use to describe either counted or noncounted stitches. A type of monochrome embroidery usually worked in black (occasionally in red, blue or green) thread on
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 7 white linen fabric, in England in the Tudor and Elizabethan periods of the 16th century. Broader term Monochrome embroidery Related term Chain stitch Clothing Coif Counted stitches Forehead cloth Freeform stitches Gold thread Headwear Linen fabric Nightcap Shirt Split stitch Book Subject Broader term Forms Brick stitch Subject Broader term Counted stitches Related term Chasuble Dalmatic Hangings Linen thread Polychrome embroidery Silk thread Tunic Vestments Cape Use Preferred term Cope Mantle Chain stitch Subject Broader term Freeform stitches Related term Blackwork Clothing Coif Decor Hangings Linen fabric Linen thread Mitre Monochrome embroidery Polychrome embroidery Shirt Shoes Silk fabric Silk thread
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 8 Tunic Wallhangings Woollen fabric Woollen thread Chasuble Subject Broader term Vestments Related term Brick stitch Counted stitches Linen fabric Metallic thread Opus Anglicanum Or nue Polychrome embroidery Silk thread Vestments Woven fabric Chemise Use Preferred term Shirt Clothing Subject Broader term Objects Narrower term Gloves Headwear Mantle Pouch Shirt Shoes Tunic Vestments Related term Blackwork Chain stitch Couching Counted stitches Dalmatic Freeform stitches Gold thread Goldwork Linen fabric Linen thread Long armed cross stitch Metallic thread Monochrome embroidery Opus Anglicanum Or nue Polychrome embroidery Satin stitch Silk fabric Silk thread Silver thread Split stitch Stem stitch Stitches
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 9 Styles Surface couching Tent stitch Thread Underside couching Velvet fabric Voided work Woollen fabric Woollen thread Woven fabric Coif Subject Broader term Headwear Related term Blackwork Chain stitch Counted stitches Double running stitch Freeform stitches Monochrome embroidery Polychrome embroidery Split stitch Stem stitch Woven fabric Cope Subject Broader term Vestments Related term Metallic thread Opus Anglicanum Or nue Non-preferred Cape Couching Subject Broader term Freeform stitches Narrower term Laidwork Surface couching Underside couching Related term Bedcover Bedhangings Clothing Decor Felt Gold thread Goldwork Hangings Linen fabric Mantle Metallic thread Nightcap
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 10 Opus Anglicanum Or nue Polychrome embroidery Pouch Silk fabric Silk thread Tunic Velvet fabric Vestments Counted stitches Subject Broader term Stitches Narrower term Brick stitch Long armed cross stitch Tent stitch Related term Blackwork Chasuble Clothing Coif Dalmatic Hangings Linen fabric Linen thread Monochrome embroidery Opus Teutonicum Polychrome embroidery Shirt Silk thread Vestments Cushion Subject Broader term Decor Cutting tools Subject Broader term Tools Narrower term Knives Shears Dalmatic Subject Broader term Vestments Related term Brick stitch Clothing Counted stitches Gold thread Goldwork Linen fabric Metallic thread Opus Anglicanum Silk fabric
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 11 Silk thread Velvet fabric Decor Subject Broader term Objects Narrower term Antependium Bedcover Cushion Hangings Tablecarpet Related term Applied work Chain stitch Couching Fabric Felt Freeform stitches Gold thread Goldwork Linen fabric Linen thread Metallic thread Polychrome embroidery Silk thread Slips Split stitch Stem stitch Stitches Styles Tent stitch Thread Velvet fabric Wallhangings Woollen fabric Woollen thread Woven fabric Non-preferred Home decoration Double running stitch Subject Broader term Freeform stitches Related term Blackwork Coif Monochrome embroidery Shirt Non-preferred Holbein stitch Drawing Subject Broader term Forms
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 12 Fabric Subject Use for any material used as the base for working embroidery. Broader term Materials Narrower term Nonwoven fabric Woven fabric Related term Decor Felt Subject Broader term Nonwoven fabric Related term Applied work Bedcover Bedhangings Couching Decor Gold thread Polychrome embroidery Shears Forehead cloth Subject Broader term Headwear Related term Blackwork Linen fabric Monochrome embroidery Polychrome embroidery Silk thread Split stitch Stem stitch Forms Facet Narrower term Article Book Drawing Pattern Photograph Report Frames Subject Broader term Tools Narrower term Slate frame Freeform stitches Subject
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 13 Broader term Stitches Narrower term Chain stitch Couching Double running stitch Satin stitch Split stitch Stem stitch Related term Blackwork Clothing Coif Decor Gold thread Hangings Linen fabric Linen thread Mitre Monochrome embroidery Opus Anglicanum Shirt Shoes Silk thread Gloves Subject Broader term Clothing Related term Metallic thread Polychrome embroidery Satin stitch Silk thread Split stitch Stem stitch Velvet fabric Gold thread Subject Broader term Metallic thread Related term Applied work Bedhangings Blackwork Clothing Couching Dalmatic Decor Felt Freeform stitches Hangings Mantle Mitre Nightcap Opus Anglicanum Or nue Pouch Shoes Silk fabric
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 14 Surface couching Tunic Underside couching Velvet fabric Vestments Wallhangings Goldwork Subject Use for items containing mainly decoration worked mainly in gold thread. Do not use where gold thread is only used to outline a motif or applied item. Broader term Styles Related term Banner Clothing Couching Dalmatic Decor Hangings Mantle Mitre Silk fabric Half cross stitch Use Preferred term Tent stitch Hangings Subject Broader term Decor Narrower term Banner Bedhangings Wallhangings Related term Applied work Brick stitch Chain stitch Couching Counted stitches Freeform stitches Gold thread Goldwork Laidwork Linen fabric Linen thread Long armed cross stitch Metallic thread Opus Teutonicum Or nue Polychrome embroidery Satin stitch Silk fabric Silk thread Slips Split stitch Stem stitch Surface couching
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 15 Tent stitch Underside couching Velvet fabric Headwear Subject Broader term Clothing Narrower term Coif Forehead cloth Nightcap Related term Blackwork Holbein stitch Use Preferred term Double running stitch Home decoration Use Preferred term Decor Knives Subject Broader term Cutting tools Laid and couched work Use Preferred term Laidwork Laidwork Subject Use for technique in which thread is laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different thread to create a solid block of stitching. Broader term Couching Related term Hangings Linen fabric Linen thread Polychrome embroidery Stem stitch Wallhangings Woollen fabric Woollen thread Non-preferred Bayeux stitch Bayeux work Laid and couched work Leather Subject Broader term
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 16 Nonwoven fabric Related term Pouch Surface couching Linen fabric Subject Broader term Woven fabric Related term Blackwork Chain stitch Chasuble Clothing Couching Counted stitches Dalmatic Decor Forehead cloth Freeform stitches Hangings Laidwork Long armed cross stitch Metallic thread Mitre Monochrome embroidery Opus Anglicanum Opus Teutonicum Or nue Polychrome embroidery Shears Shirt Slips Split stitch Stem stitch Surface couching Tablecarpet Tent stitch Tunic Voided work Wallhangings Linen thread Subject Broader term Thread Related term Alb Brick stitch Chain stitch Clothing Counted stitches Decor Freeform stitches Hangings Laidwork Monochrome embroidery Nightcap Opus Teutonicum Stem stitch Stole Tunic
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 17 Long armed cross stitch Subject Broader term Counted stitches Related term Clothing Hangings Linen fabric Voided work Non-preferred Longlegged cross stitch Longlegged cross stitch Use Preferred term Long armed cross stitch Maniple Subject Broader term Vestments Mantle Subject Broader term Clothing Related term Couching Gold thread Goldwork Opus Anglicanum Or nue Polychrome embroidery Silk fabric Silk thread Split stitch Stem stitch Surface couching Underside couching Non-preferred Cape Materials Facet Narrower term Fabric Thread Metallic thread Subject Broader term Thread Narrower term Gold thread Silver thread Related term Antependium
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 18 Chasuble Clothing Cope Couching Dalmatic Decor Gloves Hangings Linen fabric Mitre Opus Anglicanum Or nue Polychrome embroidery Shoes Slips Surface couching Tunic Underside couching Vestments Wallhangings Mitre Subject Broader term Vestments Related term Chain stitch Freeform stitches Gold thread Goldwork Linen fabric Metallic thread Polychrome embroidery Silk thread Silver thread Split stitch Stem stitch Velvet fabric Monochrome embroidery Subject Broader term Styles Narrower term Blackwork Opus Teutonicum Voided work Related term Chain stitch Clothing Coif Counted stitches Double running stitch Forehead cloth Freeform stitches Linen fabric Linen thread Nightcap Shirt Stem stitch Stitches Wallhangings
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 19 Non-preferred Assisi work Reversa work Whitework Needles Subject Broader term Stitching tools Related term Thread Nightcap Subject Broader term Headwear Related term Blackwork Couching Gold thread Linen thread Monochrome embroidery Nonwoven fabric Subject Broader term Fabric Narrower term Felt Leather Parchment Related term Applied work Bedcover Objects Facet Narrower term Clothing Decor Opus Anglicanum Subject Broader term Polychrome embroidery Related term Antependium Chasuble Clothing Cope Couching Dalmatic Freeform stitches Gold thread Linen fabric Mantle Metallic thread Silk thread
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 20 Split stitch Stem stitch Underside couching Velvet fabric Vestments Opus Teutonicum Subject Broader term Monochrome embroidery Related term Counted stitches Hangings Linen fabric Linen thread Or nue Subject means "shaded gold". Gold thread is couched down with polychrome silk thread. The spread of the silk thread creates a shaded pattern. 15th century Flemish. Broader term Polychrome embroidery Related term Antependium Chasuble Clothing Cope Couching Gold thread Hangings Linen fabric Mantle Metallic thread Split stitch Stem stitch Surface couching Tunic Velvet fabric Outline stitch Use Preferred term Stem stitch Parchment Subject Broader term Nonwoven fabric Pattern Subject Broader term Forms Petit point Use Preferred term Tent stitch Photograph Subject Broader term
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 21 Forms Polychrome embroidery Subject Broader term Styles Narrower term Opus Anglicanum Or nue Slips Related term Antependium Bedhangings Brick stitch Chain stitch Chasuble Clothing Coif Couching Counted stitches Decor Felt Forehead cloth Gloves Hangings Laidwork Linen fabric Mantle Metallic thread Mitre Satin stitch Shoes Silk fabric Surface couching Tablecarpet Tent stitch Tunic Underside couching Wallhangings Non-preferred Thread painting Purse Use Preferred term Pouch Report Subject Broader term Forms Reversa work Use Preferred term Monochrome embroidery Voided work Satin stitch Subject Broader term Freeform stitches
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 22 Related term Clothing Gloves Hangings Polychrome embroidery Silk fabric Silk thread Tunic Scissors Use Preferred term Shears Shears Subject Broader term Cutting tools Related term Felt Linen fabric Silk fabric Slips Velvet fabric Woollen fabric Non-preferred Scissors Shirt Subject use for linen body garment for either gender as no difference in construction of object. Broader term Clothing Related term Blackwork Chain stitch Counted stitches Double running stitch Freeform stitches Linen fabric Monochrome embroidery Silk thread Non-preferred Chemise Smock Shoes Subject Broader term Clothing Related term Chain stitch Freeform stitches Gold thread Metallic thread
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 23 Polychrome embroidery Silk fabric Silk thread Split stitch Stem stitch Surface couching Velvet fabric Silk fabric Subject Broader term Woven fabric Related term Antependium Banner Chain stitch Clothing Couching Dalmatic Gold thread Goldwork Hangings Mantle Polychrome embroidery Satin stitch Shears Shoes Split stitch Stem stitch Tunic Underside couching Wallhangings Silk thread Subject Broader term Thread Related term Blackwork Brick stitch Chain stitch Chasuble Clothing Coif Couching Counted stitches Dalmatic Decor Forehead cloth Freeform stitches Gloves Hangings Mantle Mitre Opus Anglicanum Or nue Satin stitch Shirt Shoes Slips Surface couching Tablecarpet Tent stitch Tunic Voided work
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 24 Wallhangings Silver thread Subject Broader term Metallic thread Related term Clothing Mitre Slate frame Subject Broader term Frames Slips Subject use for an embroidery motif worked separately in silk thread, cut out and applied to a ground fabric. Broader term Polychrome embroidery Related term Bedhangings Decor Hangings Linen fabric Metallic thread Shears Silk thread Tent stitch Smock Use Preferred term Shirt Split stitch Subject Broader term Freeform stitches Related term Antependium Banner Bedcover Bedhangings Blackwork Clothing Coif Decor Forehead cloth Gloves Hangings Linen fabric Mantle Mitre Opus Anglicanum Or nue Shoes Silk fabric Tunic Wallhangings
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 25 Woollen fabric Stem stitch Subject Broader term Freeform stitches Related term Bedcover Bedhangings Blackwork Clothing Coif Decor Forehead cloth Gloves Hangings Laidwork Linen fabric Mantle Mitre Monochrome embroidery Opus Anglicanum Or nue Shoes Silk fabric Tunic Voided work Wallhangings Woollen fabric Non-preferred Outline stitch Stitches Facet Narrower term Counted stitches Freeform stitches Related term Clothing Decor Monochrome embroidery Stitching tools Subject Broader term Tools Narrower term Needles Thimbles Wax Stole Subject Broader term Vestments Related term Linen thread
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 26 Styles Facet Narrower term Applied work Goldwork Monochrome embroidery Polychrome embroidery Related term Clothing Decor Surface couching Subject Broader term Couching Related term Applied work Clothing Gold thread Hangings Leather Linen fabric Mantle Metallic thread Or nue Polychrome embroidery Pouch Shoes Tunic Wallhangings Tablecarpet Subject Broader term Decor Related term Linen fabric Polychrome embroidery Silk thread Tent stitch Woven fabric Tent stitch Subject Broader term Counted stitches Related term Bedhangings Clothing Decor Hangings Linen fabric Polychrome embroidery Silk thread Slips Tablecarpet Tunic Non-preferred Half cross stitch
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 27 Petit point Thimbles Subject Broader term Stitching tools Thread Subject Broader term Materials Narrower term Linen thread Metallic thread Silk thread Woollen thread Related term Clothing Decor Needles Non-preferred Yarn Thread painting Use Preferred term Polychrome embroidery Tools Facet Narrower term Cutting tools Frames Stitching tools Tunic Subject Broader term Clothing Related term Applied work Brick stitch Chain stitch Couching Gold thread Linen fabric Linen thread Metallic thread Or nue Polychrome embroidery Satin stitch Silk fabric Silk thread Split stitch Stem stitch Surface couching Tent stitch Woollen fabric Woollen thread Woven fabric
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 28 Tunicle Subject Broader term Vestments Underside couching Subject Broader term Couching Related term Clothing Gold thread Hangings Mantle Metallic thread Opus Anglicanum Polychrome embroidery Silk fabric Velvet fabric Subject Broader term Woven fabric Related term Banner Clothing Couching Dalmatic Decor Gloves Gold thread Hangings Mitre Opus Anglicanum Or nue Shears Shoes Wallhangings Vestments Subject Broader term Clothing Narrower term Alb Chasuble Cope Dalmatic Maniple Mitre Stole Tunicle Related term Brick stitch Chasuble Couching Counted stitches Gold thread Metallic thread Opus Anglicanum
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 29 Voided work Subject Broader term Monochrome embroidery Related term Clothing Linen fabric Long armed cross stitch Silk thread Stem stitch Non-preferred Assisi work Reversa work Wallhangings Subject Broader term Hangings Related term Applied work Chain stitch Decor Gold thread Laidwork Linen fabric Metallic thread Monochrome embroidery Polychrome embroidery Silk fabric Silk thread Split stitch Stem stitch Surface couching Velvet fabric Woollen fabric Woollen thread Woven fabric Wax Subject Broader term Stitching tools Whitework Use Preferred term Monochrome embroidery Woollen fabric Subject Broader term Woven fabric Related term Applied work Bedcover Bedhangings Chain stitch Clothing Decor
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 30 Laidwork Shears Split stitch Stem stitch Tunic Wallhangings Woollen thread Subject Broader term Thread Related term Bedcover Bedhangings Chain stitch Clothing Decor Laidwork Split stitch Stem stitch Tunic Wallhangings Non-preferred Yarn Woven fabric Subject Broader term Fabric Narrower term Linen fabric Silk fabric Velvet fabric Woollen fabric Related term Chasuble Clothing Coif Decor Tablecarpet Tunic Wallhangings Yarn Use Preferred term Thread Woollen thread
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 31 Draft Facet Analysis - Medieval and Early Modern Embroidery (1600) Techniques/Processes? Designing Charting Tracing Transferring Ink Chalk soot Mounting Materials Non-woven Leather Felt Parchment Woven Silk fabric Linen fabric Wool fabric Cotton fabric Thread Silk thread Linen thread Wool thread Metallic thread Gold thread Silver thread Wire Tools Stitching Needles Thimbles Wax Cutting
© Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 32 Shears Knife Frame Slate Hoop Styles Monochrome Blackwork voided Opus teutonicum Polychrome Opus anglicanum Or nue Applied work Slips Beads paillettes Stitches Counted Long-armed cross stitch Brick stitch Tent stitch Non-counted Split stitch Stem stitch Chain stitch Satin stitch Couching Underside couching Laid and couched work Surface couching Klosterstitch

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MAEME_Thesaurus_Michelle_Watson

  • 1. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 1 Medieval and Early Modern Embroidery Thesaurus About the Medieval and Early Modern Embroidery Thesaurus - MAEME The Medieval and Early Modern Embroidery Thesaurus (MAEME) is a controlled vocabulary primarily designed as an indexing tool for professionals working in the textiles history and preservation area, specifically embroidered objects, and secondly, as a searching aid for the non-professional retrieving information about embroidered objects covered by the temporal and geographical scope of the thesaurus. For the purposes of this thesaurus embroidery is defined as the handicraft of decorating fabric or other materials with needle and thread (Wikipedia, 2015). MAEME was developed in 2015 by Michelle Watson. It was created using the 1 to 1 software package by Active Classification Solutions (v. 8.0.0.1). The current published version of the thesaurus is Version 1.1 – 27 November 2015. Scope The MAEME Thesaurus does not attempt to present universal or comprehensive coverage of all textiles concepts, descriptors or time periods. Rather it is limited to the period from the 7th century to the 16th century CE and covers the geographical areas of Europe, the Middle East, North Africa and Eastern Europe. A key aim of the thesaurus is to assist indexing and retrieval by providing descriptors for individual subject terms which have multiple entry vocabulary terms in common use. Terms and relationships MAEME contains terms linked by a reference structure. The two categories of terms in MAEME are:  Preferred terms (also called descriptors), which are terms used in indexing to represent subjects found in the literature.(APAIS, 2009)  Non-preferred terms, provide entry terms to direct the indexer or user to the preferred term. They include terms which are synonymous with preferred terms.(APAIS, 2009) The following reference structure is used to link terms in MAEME: Abbreviation Reference Meaning USE Use Indicates the preferred term (descriptor) e.g. Assisi work USE Voided work UF Used for Indicates the non-preferred terms which the synonymous preferred term covers, e.g. Voided work UF Assisi work BT Broader Term Represents a broader hierarchical concept than the concept represented by the descriptor, e.g. Voided work BT Monochrome NT Narrower Term Represents a narrower hierarchical concept than the concept represented by the descriptor, e.g. Monochrome NT Blackwork, Monochrome NT Voided work RT Related Term A Related Term is a descriptor that is neither equivalent (synonymous) nor hierarchical (broader or narrower) but which is conceptually associated with another descriptor. The relationship is symmetrical, in that the relationship is represented in both associated descriptors’ structures (Victoria Online, 2014)., e.g. Coif RT Blackwork; Blackwork RT Coif SN Scope Note Scope notes indicate the meaning or application of descriptors in the thesaurus but are not intended as definitive definitions of the term.
  • 2. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 2 Descriptors Descriptors are included in the thesaurus based on the predicted frequency of use of the terms to describe information objects andtheneedtoprovideuseful terminology relatedtothe specialized subject domain. Subjects central to the information objects indexed in MAEME are represented by relatively specific descriptors (APAIS, 2009). Examples of Listings Hierarchical Listing STITCHES FACET Counted stitches Subject Brick stitch Subject Long armed cross stitch Subject Tent stitch Subject Freeform stitches Subject Chain stitch Subject Couching Subject Laidwork Subject Surface couching Subject Underside couching Subject Alphabetical Listing Laidwork Subject Use for technique in which thread is laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different thread to create a solid block of stitching. Broader term Couching Related term Hangings Linen fabric Linen thread Polychrome embroidery Stem stitch Wallhangings Woollen fabric Woollen thread Non-preferred Bayeux stitch Bayeux work Laid and couched work References Descriptors Needlework: an illustrated history / edited by Harriet Bridgeman and Elizabeth Drury. (1978). New York: Paddington Press. Clabburn, P. (1976). The needleworker's dictionary. London: Macmillan. Schuette, M. (1964). A pictorial history of embroidery. New York: Praeger. Thesaurus Construction APAIS. (2009). The APAIS thesaurus. Retrieved 23 Nov, 2015, from http://www.nla.gov.au/apais/thesaurus/about.html Victoria Online. (2014). VicGovAu Thesaurus. Retrieved 24 Nov, 2015, from http://www.vic.gov.au/blog/manuals- tookits/victoria-online-thesaurus/ Wikipedia. (2015). Embroidery. Retrieved 25 Nov, 2015, from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Embroidery
  • 3. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 3 MEAME Hierarchical listing FORMS FACET Article Subject Book Subject Drawing Subject Pattern Subject Photograph Subject Report Subject MATERIALS FACET Fabric Subject Nonwoven fabric Subject Felt Subject Leather Subject Parchment Subject Woven fabric Subject Linen fabric Subject Silk fabric Subject Velvet fabric Subject Woollen fabric Subject Thread Subject Linen thread Subject Metallic thread Subject Gold thread Subject Silver thread Subject Silk thread Subject Woollen thread Subject OBJECTS FACET Clothing Subject Gloves Subject Headwear Subject Coif Subject Forehead cloth Subject Nightcap Subject Mantle Subject Pouch Subject Shirt Subject Shoes Subject Tunic Subject Vestments Subject Alb Subject Chasuble Subject Cope Subject Dalmatic Subject Maniple Subject Mitre Subject Stole Subject Tunicle Subject Decor Subject Antependium Subject Bedcover Subject Cushion Subject Hangings Subject
  • 4. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 4 Banner Subject Bedhangings Subject Wallhangings Subject Tablecarpet Subject STITCHES FACET Counted stitches Subject Brick stitch Subject Long armed cross stitch Subject Tent stitch Subject Freeform stitches Subject Chain stitch Subject Couching Subject Laidwork Subject Surface couching Subject Underside couching Subject Double running stitch Subject Satin stitch Subject Split stitch Subject Stem stitch Subject STYLES FACET Applied work Subject Goldwork Subject Monochrome embroidery Subject Blackwork Subject Opus Teutonicum Subject Voided work Subject Polychrome embroidery Subject Opus Anglicanum Subject Or nue Subject Slips Subject TOOLS FACET Cutting tools Subject Knives Subject Shears Subject Frames Subject Slate frame Subject Stitching tools Subject Needles Subject Thimbles Subject Wax Subject
  • 5. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 5 MEAME Alphabetical listing Alb Subject Broader term Vestments Related term Linen thread Altar frontal Use Preferred term Antependium Antependium Subject Broader term Decor Related term Metallic thread Opus Anglicanum Or nue Polychrome embroidery Silk fabric Split stitch Non-preferred Altar frontal Applied work Subject Broader term Styles Related term Banner Decor Felt Gold thread Hangings Nonwoven fabric Pouch Surface couching Tunic Wallhangings Woollen fabric Non-preferred Applique Applique Use Preferred term Applied work Article Subject Broader term Forms
  • 6. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 6 Assisi work Use Preferred term Monochrome embroidery Voided work Banner Subject Broader term Hangings Related term Applied work Goldwork Silk fabric Split stitch Velvet fabric Bayeux stitch Use Preferred term Laidwork Bayeux work Use Preferred term Laidwork Bedcover Subject Broader term Decor Related term Couching Felt Nonwoven fabric Split stitch Stem stitch Woollen fabric Woollen thread Bedhangings Subject Broader term Hangings Related term Couching Felt Gold thread Polychrome embroidery Slips Split stitch Stem stitch Tent stitch Woollen fabric Woollen thread Blackwork Subject use to describe either counted or noncounted stitches. A type of monochrome embroidery usually worked in black (occasionally in red, blue or green) thread on
  • 7. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 7 white linen fabric, in England in the Tudor and Elizabethan periods of the 16th century. Broader term Monochrome embroidery Related term Chain stitch Clothing Coif Counted stitches Forehead cloth Freeform stitches Gold thread Headwear Linen fabric Nightcap Shirt Split stitch Book Subject Broader term Forms Brick stitch Subject Broader term Counted stitches Related term Chasuble Dalmatic Hangings Linen thread Polychrome embroidery Silk thread Tunic Vestments Cape Use Preferred term Cope Mantle Chain stitch Subject Broader term Freeform stitches Related term Blackwork Clothing Coif Decor Hangings Linen fabric Linen thread Mitre Monochrome embroidery Polychrome embroidery Shirt Shoes Silk fabric Silk thread
  • 8. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 8 Tunic Wallhangings Woollen fabric Woollen thread Chasuble Subject Broader term Vestments Related term Brick stitch Counted stitches Linen fabric Metallic thread Opus Anglicanum Or nue Polychrome embroidery Silk thread Vestments Woven fabric Chemise Use Preferred term Shirt Clothing Subject Broader term Objects Narrower term Gloves Headwear Mantle Pouch Shirt Shoes Tunic Vestments Related term Blackwork Chain stitch Couching Counted stitches Dalmatic Freeform stitches Gold thread Goldwork Linen fabric Linen thread Long armed cross stitch Metallic thread Monochrome embroidery Opus Anglicanum Or nue Polychrome embroidery Satin stitch Silk fabric Silk thread Silver thread Split stitch Stem stitch Stitches
  • 9. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 9 Styles Surface couching Tent stitch Thread Underside couching Velvet fabric Voided work Woollen fabric Woollen thread Woven fabric Coif Subject Broader term Headwear Related term Blackwork Chain stitch Counted stitches Double running stitch Freeform stitches Monochrome embroidery Polychrome embroidery Split stitch Stem stitch Woven fabric Cope Subject Broader term Vestments Related term Metallic thread Opus Anglicanum Or nue Non-preferred Cape Couching Subject Broader term Freeform stitches Narrower term Laidwork Surface couching Underside couching Related term Bedcover Bedhangings Clothing Decor Felt Gold thread Goldwork Hangings Linen fabric Mantle Metallic thread Nightcap
  • 10. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 10 Opus Anglicanum Or nue Polychrome embroidery Pouch Silk fabric Silk thread Tunic Velvet fabric Vestments Counted stitches Subject Broader term Stitches Narrower term Brick stitch Long armed cross stitch Tent stitch Related term Blackwork Chasuble Clothing Coif Dalmatic Hangings Linen fabric Linen thread Monochrome embroidery Opus Teutonicum Polychrome embroidery Shirt Silk thread Vestments Cushion Subject Broader term Decor Cutting tools Subject Broader term Tools Narrower term Knives Shears Dalmatic Subject Broader term Vestments Related term Brick stitch Clothing Counted stitches Gold thread Goldwork Linen fabric Metallic thread Opus Anglicanum Silk fabric
  • 11. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 11 Silk thread Velvet fabric Decor Subject Broader term Objects Narrower term Antependium Bedcover Cushion Hangings Tablecarpet Related term Applied work Chain stitch Couching Fabric Felt Freeform stitches Gold thread Goldwork Linen fabric Linen thread Metallic thread Polychrome embroidery Silk thread Slips Split stitch Stem stitch Stitches Styles Tent stitch Thread Velvet fabric Wallhangings Woollen fabric Woollen thread Woven fabric Non-preferred Home decoration Double running stitch Subject Broader term Freeform stitches Related term Blackwork Coif Monochrome embroidery Shirt Non-preferred Holbein stitch Drawing Subject Broader term Forms
  • 12. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 12 Fabric Subject Use for any material used as the base for working embroidery. Broader term Materials Narrower term Nonwoven fabric Woven fabric Related term Decor Felt Subject Broader term Nonwoven fabric Related term Applied work Bedcover Bedhangings Couching Decor Gold thread Polychrome embroidery Shears Forehead cloth Subject Broader term Headwear Related term Blackwork Linen fabric Monochrome embroidery Polychrome embroidery Silk thread Split stitch Stem stitch Forms Facet Narrower term Article Book Drawing Pattern Photograph Report Frames Subject Broader term Tools Narrower term Slate frame Freeform stitches Subject
  • 13. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 13 Broader term Stitches Narrower term Chain stitch Couching Double running stitch Satin stitch Split stitch Stem stitch Related term Blackwork Clothing Coif Decor Gold thread Hangings Linen fabric Linen thread Mitre Monochrome embroidery Opus Anglicanum Shirt Shoes Silk thread Gloves Subject Broader term Clothing Related term Metallic thread Polychrome embroidery Satin stitch Silk thread Split stitch Stem stitch Velvet fabric Gold thread Subject Broader term Metallic thread Related term Applied work Bedhangings Blackwork Clothing Couching Dalmatic Decor Felt Freeform stitches Hangings Mantle Mitre Nightcap Opus Anglicanum Or nue Pouch Shoes Silk fabric
  • 14. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 14 Surface couching Tunic Underside couching Velvet fabric Vestments Wallhangings Goldwork Subject Use for items containing mainly decoration worked mainly in gold thread. Do not use where gold thread is only used to outline a motif or applied item. Broader term Styles Related term Banner Clothing Couching Dalmatic Decor Hangings Mantle Mitre Silk fabric Half cross stitch Use Preferred term Tent stitch Hangings Subject Broader term Decor Narrower term Banner Bedhangings Wallhangings Related term Applied work Brick stitch Chain stitch Couching Counted stitches Freeform stitches Gold thread Goldwork Laidwork Linen fabric Linen thread Long armed cross stitch Metallic thread Opus Teutonicum Or nue Polychrome embroidery Satin stitch Silk fabric Silk thread Slips Split stitch Stem stitch Surface couching
  • 15. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 15 Tent stitch Underside couching Velvet fabric Headwear Subject Broader term Clothing Narrower term Coif Forehead cloth Nightcap Related term Blackwork Holbein stitch Use Preferred term Double running stitch Home decoration Use Preferred term Decor Knives Subject Broader term Cutting tools Laid and couched work Use Preferred term Laidwork Laidwork Subject Use for technique in which thread is laid across the surface of the ground fabric and fastened in place with small stitches of the same or a different thread to create a solid block of stitching. Broader term Couching Related term Hangings Linen fabric Linen thread Polychrome embroidery Stem stitch Wallhangings Woollen fabric Woollen thread Non-preferred Bayeux stitch Bayeux work Laid and couched work Leather Subject Broader term
  • 16. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 16 Nonwoven fabric Related term Pouch Surface couching Linen fabric Subject Broader term Woven fabric Related term Blackwork Chain stitch Chasuble Clothing Couching Counted stitches Dalmatic Decor Forehead cloth Freeform stitches Hangings Laidwork Long armed cross stitch Metallic thread Mitre Monochrome embroidery Opus Anglicanum Opus Teutonicum Or nue Polychrome embroidery Shears Shirt Slips Split stitch Stem stitch Surface couching Tablecarpet Tent stitch Tunic Voided work Wallhangings Linen thread Subject Broader term Thread Related term Alb Brick stitch Chain stitch Clothing Counted stitches Decor Freeform stitches Hangings Laidwork Monochrome embroidery Nightcap Opus Teutonicum Stem stitch Stole Tunic
  • 17. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 17 Long armed cross stitch Subject Broader term Counted stitches Related term Clothing Hangings Linen fabric Voided work Non-preferred Longlegged cross stitch Longlegged cross stitch Use Preferred term Long armed cross stitch Maniple Subject Broader term Vestments Mantle Subject Broader term Clothing Related term Couching Gold thread Goldwork Opus Anglicanum Or nue Polychrome embroidery Silk fabric Silk thread Split stitch Stem stitch Surface couching Underside couching Non-preferred Cape Materials Facet Narrower term Fabric Thread Metallic thread Subject Broader term Thread Narrower term Gold thread Silver thread Related term Antependium
  • 18. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 18 Chasuble Clothing Cope Couching Dalmatic Decor Gloves Hangings Linen fabric Mitre Opus Anglicanum Or nue Polychrome embroidery Shoes Slips Surface couching Tunic Underside couching Vestments Wallhangings Mitre Subject Broader term Vestments Related term Chain stitch Freeform stitches Gold thread Goldwork Linen fabric Metallic thread Polychrome embroidery Silk thread Silver thread Split stitch Stem stitch Velvet fabric Monochrome embroidery Subject Broader term Styles Narrower term Blackwork Opus Teutonicum Voided work Related term Chain stitch Clothing Coif Counted stitches Double running stitch Forehead cloth Freeform stitches Linen fabric Linen thread Nightcap Shirt Stem stitch Stitches Wallhangings
  • 19. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 19 Non-preferred Assisi work Reversa work Whitework Needles Subject Broader term Stitching tools Related term Thread Nightcap Subject Broader term Headwear Related term Blackwork Couching Gold thread Linen thread Monochrome embroidery Nonwoven fabric Subject Broader term Fabric Narrower term Felt Leather Parchment Related term Applied work Bedcover Objects Facet Narrower term Clothing Decor Opus Anglicanum Subject Broader term Polychrome embroidery Related term Antependium Chasuble Clothing Cope Couching Dalmatic Freeform stitches Gold thread Linen fabric Mantle Metallic thread Silk thread
  • 20. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 20 Split stitch Stem stitch Underside couching Velvet fabric Vestments Opus Teutonicum Subject Broader term Monochrome embroidery Related term Counted stitches Hangings Linen fabric Linen thread Or nue Subject means "shaded gold". Gold thread is couched down with polychrome silk thread. The spread of the silk thread creates a shaded pattern. 15th century Flemish. Broader term Polychrome embroidery Related term Antependium Chasuble Clothing Cope Couching Gold thread Hangings Linen fabric Mantle Metallic thread Split stitch Stem stitch Surface couching Tunic Velvet fabric Outline stitch Use Preferred term Stem stitch Parchment Subject Broader term Nonwoven fabric Pattern Subject Broader term Forms Petit point Use Preferred term Tent stitch Photograph Subject Broader term
  • 21. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 21 Forms Polychrome embroidery Subject Broader term Styles Narrower term Opus Anglicanum Or nue Slips Related term Antependium Bedhangings Brick stitch Chain stitch Chasuble Clothing Coif Couching Counted stitches Decor Felt Forehead cloth Gloves Hangings Laidwork Linen fabric Mantle Metallic thread Mitre Satin stitch Shoes Silk fabric Surface couching Tablecarpet Tent stitch Tunic Underside couching Wallhangings Non-preferred Thread painting Purse Use Preferred term Pouch Report Subject Broader term Forms Reversa work Use Preferred term Monochrome embroidery Voided work Satin stitch Subject Broader term Freeform stitches
  • 22. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 22 Related term Clothing Gloves Hangings Polychrome embroidery Silk fabric Silk thread Tunic Scissors Use Preferred term Shears Shears Subject Broader term Cutting tools Related term Felt Linen fabric Silk fabric Slips Velvet fabric Woollen fabric Non-preferred Scissors Shirt Subject use for linen body garment for either gender as no difference in construction of object. Broader term Clothing Related term Blackwork Chain stitch Counted stitches Double running stitch Freeform stitches Linen fabric Monochrome embroidery Silk thread Non-preferred Chemise Smock Shoes Subject Broader term Clothing Related term Chain stitch Freeform stitches Gold thread Metallic thread
  • 23. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 23 Polychrome embroidery Silk fabric Silk thread Split stitch Stem stitch Surface couching Velvet fabric Silk fabric Subject Broader term Woven fabric Related term Antependium Banner Chain stitch Clothing Couching Dalmatic Gold thread Goldwork Hangings Mantle Polychrome embroidery Satin stitch Shears Shoes Split stitch Stem stitch Tunic Underside couching Wallhangings Silk thread Subject Broader term Thread Related term Blackwork Brick stitch Chain stitch Chasuble Clothing Coif Couching Counted stitches Dalmatic Decor Forehead cloth Freeform stitches Gloves Hangings Mantle Mitre Opus Anglicanum Or nue Satin stitch Shirt Shoes Slips Surface couching Tablecarpet Tent stitch Tunic Voided work
  • 24. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 24 Wallhangings Silver thread Subject Broader term Metallic thread Related term Clothing Mitre Slate frame Subject Broader term Frames Slips Subject use for an embroidery motif worked separately in silk thread, cut out and applied to a ground fabric. Broader term Polychrome embroidery Related term Bedhangings Decor Hangings Linen fabric Metallic thread Shears Silk thread Tent stitch Smock Use Preferred term Shirt Split stitch Subject Broader term Freeform stitches Related term Antependium Banner Bedcover Bedhangings Blackwork Clothing Coif Decor Forehead cloth Gloves Hangings Linen fabric Mantle Mitre Opus Anglicanum Or nue Shoes Silk fabric Tunic Wallhangings
  • 25. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 25 Woollen fabric Stem stitch Subject Broader term Freeform stitches Related term Bedcover Bedhangings Blackwork Clothing Coif Decor Forehead cloth Gloves Hangings Laidwork Linen fabric Mantle Mitre Monochrome embroidery Opus Anglicanum Or nue Shoes Silk fabric Tunic Voided work Wallhangings Woollen fabric Non-preferred Outline stitch Stitches Facet Narrower term Counted stitches Freeform stitches Related term Clothing Decor Monochrome embroidery Stitching tools Subject Broader term Tools Narrower term Needles Thimbles Wax Stole Subject Broader term Vestments Related term Linen thread
  • 26. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 26 Styles Facet Narrower term Applied work Goldwork Monochrome embroidery Polychrome embroidery Related term Clothing Decor Surface couching Subject Broader term Couching Related term Applied work Clothing Gold thread Hangings Leather Linen fabric Mantle Metallic thread Or nue Polychrome embroidery Pouch Shoes Tunic Wallhangings Tablecarpet Subject Broader term Decor Related term Linen fabric Polychrome embroidery Silk thread Tent stitch Woven fabric Tent stitch Subject Broader term Counted stitches Related term Bedhangings Clothing Decor Hangings Linen fabric Polychrome embroidery Silk thread Slips Tablecarpet Tunic Non-preferred Half cross stitch
  • 27. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 27 Petit point Thimbles Subject Broader term Stitching tools Thread Subject Broader term Materials Narrower term Linen thread Metallic thread Silk thread Woollen thread Related term Clothing Decor Needles Non-preferred Yarn Thread painting Use Preferred term Polychrome embroidery Tools Facet Narrower term Cutting tools Frames Stitching tools Tunic Subject Broader term Clothing Related term Applied work Brick stitch Chain stitch Couching Gold thread Linen fabric Linen thread Metallic thread Or nue Polychrome embroidery Satin stitch Silk fabric Silk thread Split stitch Stem stitch Surface couching Tent stitch Woollen fabric Woollen thread Woven fabric
  • 28. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 28 Tunicle Subject Broader term Vestments Underside couching Subject Broader term Couching Related term Clothing Gold thread Hangings Mantle Metallic thread Opus Anglicanum Polychrome embroidery Silk fabric Velvet fabric Subject Broader term Woven fabric Related term Banner Clothing Couching Dalmatic Decor Gloves Gold thread Hangings Mitre Opus Anglicanum Or nue Shears Shoes Wallhangings Vestments Subject Broader term Clothing Narrower term Alb Chasuble Cope Dalmatic Maniple Mitre Stole Tunicle Related term Brick stitch Chasuble Couching Counted stitches Gold thread Metallic thread Opus Anglicanum
  • 29. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 29 Voided work Subject Broader term Monochrome embroidery Related term Clothing Linen fabric Long armed cross stitch Silk thread Stem stitch Non-preferred Assisi work Reversa work Wallhangings Subject Broader term Hangings Related term Applied work Chain stitch Decor Gold thread Laidwork Linen fabric Metallic thread Monochrome embroidery Polychrome embroidery Silk fabric Silk thread Split stitch Stem stitch Surface couching Velvet fabric Woollen fabric Woollen thread Woven fabric Wax Subject Broader term Stitching tools Whitework Use Preferred term Monochrome embroidery Woollen fabric Subject Broader term Woven fabric Related term Applied work Bedcover Bedhangings Chain stitch Clothing Decor
  • 30. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 30 Laidwork Shears Split stitch Stem stitch Tunic Wallhangings Woollen thread Subject Broader term Thread Related term Bedcover Bedhangings Chain stitch Clothing Decor Laidwork Split stitch Stem stitch Tunic Wallhangings Non-preferred Yarn Woven fabric Subject Broader term Fabric Narrower term Linen fabric Silk fabric Velvet fabric Woollen fabric Related term Chasuble Clothing Coif Decor Tablecarpet Tunic Wallhangings Yarn Use Preferred term Thread Woollen thread
  • 31. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 31 Draft Facet Analysis - Medieval and Early Modern Embroidery (1600) Techniques/Processes? Designing Charting Tracing Transferring Ink Chalk soot Mounting Materials Non-woven Leather Felt Parchment Woven Silk fabric Linen fabric Wool fabric Cotton fabric Thread Silk thread Linen thread Wool thread Metallic thread Gold thread Silver thread Wire Tools Stitching Needles Thimbles Wax Cutting
  • 32. © Michelle Watson, 2015 (michwatsonoz@gmail.com) 32 Shears Knife Frame Slate Hoop Styles Monochrome Blackwork voided Opus teutonicum Polychrome Opus anglicanum Or nue Applied work Slips Beads paillettes Stitches Counted Long-armed cross stitch Brick stitch Tent stitch Non-counted Split stitch Stem stitch Chain stitch Satin stitch Couching Underside couching Laid and couched work Surface couching Klosterstitch