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Is a Sugar Glider for
you?
So you heard about sugar gliders and decided to look on the Internet to find out more.
Just looking at the pictures you are amazed at just how cute they are. Wow aren't they
cute, they are just like living cuddly toys and those big eyes and that amazing stripe
running down their back.

Sugar Gliders are becoming increasingly popular these days and I know that web
pages like my own are partially to blame. I also know I get a number of emails each
week asking me about these new pets. They have many good points but like all
animals there is another side to the story.

Sharp claws
While it is inaccurate to call gliders flying squirrels as they are actually marsupials it
is fairly accurate to call them marsupial flying squirrels. What does that mean as far as
their suitability as pets? Well gliders are adapted to living, climbing and jumping to
and from trees. And as such they have sharp little claws that they embed into
whatever they are climbing. That includes your hands, arms and whatever other free
area of skin they find and cling too. Glider owners frequently look as if they have just
lost a fight with a fairly opinionated cat. Your hands and arms are almost always
covered with scratches. Sugar gliders also get their name from their habits of gliding
from tree to tree, as a pet this adjusts to them leaping from person to person and to
furniture and back again. Many gliders have been known to wait until their owner
looks at them then to jump onto their owners face, so you can also end up with a
scratched up face and I would not be surprised if at least one person ends up losing
their sight due to a scratched cornea or worse.

Can't be housebroken/Smell
Gliders are also incontinent and urinate and defecate on you without thinking about it
- I have only ever heard of one person who managed to toilet train their glider. This is
of course on top of having all those new scratches. This of course leads to people
being allergic to gliders not because of their fur but because of their allergenic claws.
Gliders being colony animals use scenting to declare dominance and the male has
three scent glands 1) is on the forehead where a pronounced bald patch develops. 2) is
on the chest and looks like a stain on his fur, 3) is around his anus. Gliders then mark
their territory leading to pronounced odors that are difficult to overcome. In a nutshell
sugar gliders smell, not as much as ferrets but 10 x as much as chinchillas.

Longevity/Care Requirements
Sugar Gliders will live for 10-15 years if cared for properly. They tend to bond to a
person but bond better if they are young, therefore selling a glider after having it for a
year or two is VERY cruel and almost inhumane. If you want a glider ask yourself
what you will be doing in the next ten years, will you always have time to play with
him, are you going to college, going to get married, planning on children,- gliders are
NOT dorm animals or even really pets for when you are sharing an apartment. If you
are going to college most colleges require you to spend teh first year on campus and
strictly forbid pets. Therefore going to colleg and having a sugar glider as a pet may
well be non compatible.

If you're a person who does not have a lot of time to spend with a pet, a sugar glider is
not the animal for you. Gliders are social and communal by nature, and they crave
time and attention. Gliders also require at least an hour of being played with a night if
not more, Are you prepared to do that regardless of new potential partners? Gliders
have been studied in behavioural works on depression, and when left unattended their
activity level decreases dramatically. Eventually, they become highly agitated and
have even been known to die from loneliness. If you can afford to buy more than one
sugar glider, it is best to do so. That way, if you get terribly busy or have to be away
for periods of time, your gliders will have each other for company and stimulation.

Nocturnal
Sugar Gliders are nocturnal and their large eyes mean that they dislike normal
daylight or electric lights. Sugar Gliders often do not wake up until 10pm or 11pm.
Then you would be advised to play with them in a room with subdued lighting. This
means that if you go to bed early you may never get the chance to interact with them.
This is yet another reason not to get a glider if you are a child.

Are they legal in your state?
Before even considering adoption of a glider, you must find out if it is legal to keep a
sugar glider in your state or locality. The laws and situations are different in every
area, and since the exotic animal market is still in its infancy, the rules are changing
all the time. Gliders are legal in most places, but protect yourself and check to be sure.
One important thing to know, especially if you decide to breed your pet: In order to
sell a sugar glider (or even give it away), you must have a USDA (United States
Department of Agriculture) license. You do not need a license merely to own one.

Dietary Requirements
Sugar gliders are insectivores. They enjoy eating insects in the wild. If you can't face
feeding your glider either mealworms or crickets do NOT get a sugar glider. Their
natural diet also includes scavenging off small dead mammals. Zoos tend to feed their
gliders a one day old chick (dead) once a week. You can provide a dry food such as
Mazuri Omnivore or Insectivore food or cooked meat instead. Also a whole animal
also provides calcium and vitamins more effectively than other foods. Whilst feeding
baby mice/rats is not essential the insects are. This protein is supposed to be at least
25% of their diet while the rest comes from fruit and vegetables. More recent studies
suggest they need up tp 35% protein. Therefore you have to cut up fruit and
vegetables every night for them. This can be a lot of work and can not be neglected.
Expensive
Sugar gliders can be fairly expensive to buy with prices ranging from $100 to $400
for a single, hand-raised glider. Sugar Gliders are also expensive to keep so please
don't look for a cut price glider. If you cant afford the pet, you can't afford to keep it.
You should be able to afford a emergency vet visit at any time if you are a responsible
owner.

Housing Requirements
As your pet is an arboreal animal (tree dwelling) it needs as large a cage as you can
provide with tree branches inside as well as other toys such as a wheel that will not
cause injury such as the wodent wheel, rope ladders etc. Our first cage was 17" by 24"
by 36" high. We have now made a 24" by 24" by 60" high cage which the gliders
enjoy far better. anything smaller than these sizes are cruel.

Vets
As a fairly new pet, there is a dearth of veterinarians that know the animal and how to
treat illnesses. Please find a vet BEFORE you buy your pet. You should be able to
take your pet to a knowledgeable vet 24/7 if you are wise.

Fragile
Although sugar gliders are healthy and hardy animals, their physical structure is small
and delicate although their skulls seem to be very dense when considering the way
they bounce themselves off trees many times head first. Thus, they are NOT a suitable
pet for very young children, who like to squeeze the animals that they love best.

Bonding
You have been told that gliders are sweet animals that love human contact. They can
be but it is very dependant on how the animal was raised and how often it was
handled from the early stages. Some lucky people get gliders that immediately cuddle
up, are incredibly sweet and never want anything more than to be your best friend.
Others don't!!!! Many times when you get your glider it is scared and unsure and not
used to human contact. This animal will crab at you, an ungodly racket that sounds
like a miniture electric saw, so loud you would swear the animal is hiding an
amplifier! It may also lunge at you and bite- hard..sometimes so hard that it draws
blood. It may also run and hide and want nothing to do with you. Many people have
been faced with gliders like this and are completely unprepared. This animal will
require hours of contact being bitten frequently and may take months to come around.
Just leaving the animal in its cage is the worst way to deal with a glider like this.
Playing with them whilst sleepy and bribing them shamelesly with favourite foods are
all good ways to start the bonding process. Other people carry them around in a pouch
for hours allowing the animal to get used to them. I have seen countless letters asking
why their glider is mean and hates them. It is NOT mean, it is SCARED and needs
lots of love, time and affection.

If you still want a sugar glider after this, then you may be the perfect person for the
glider and the glider the perfect pet for you. I salute you and wish you the best- you
deserve it

…………………………….




Specializing in Sugar Gliders, other exotics and exotic pet care
products.

Linda Altman- Owner
PO Box 99690,
Raleigh,
NC 27624-9690
Tel: (919) 847-8403                      (919) 847-8403
Fax: (413) 208-0980

Complete Catalog
Copyright 1997, 1998, 1999. All material on this website is copyrighted and cannot be
reproduced or transmitted by any means including electronically, manually, electronically
transmitted, etc. without express written consent from Southern Exotics. This includes all
pricing information, pictures, care information, articles, lists, and any other information that
you find here on this website.


SUGAR GLIDER FAQ
by Linda Altman of Southern Exotics
Sugar gliders are fast becoming one of the most popular of exotic pets today!
Unfortunately the veterinary community and the pet community at large has
not kept up with the demand for accurate information. Treatment and care of
sugar gliders is still in its infancy here in the US. I hope the following
frequently asked questions will help you make an informed decision as to
whether or not you should have a sugar glider for a pet or if you do have one
or two already, I hope that this information helps you in your everyday care.

1. What is a sugar glider?
A sugar glider is a small arboreal marsupial, closely related to the opossum,
that is native to Australia, New Guinea, Indonesia and the Philippines.

2. What do sugar gliders eat??
A sugar gliders diet in the wild consists mainly of insects, sap, nectar, small
birds and bird eggs, and lizards. In captivity you should be feeding them a diet
consisting of 50% protein in the form of insects and eggs and 50%
carbohydrates in the form of fruits and vegetables. I recommend using an
insectivore based diet, combined with fruits and veggies.

3. What type of cage do I need??
You will need at a minimum, a cage of 2 ft x 2 ft x 2 ft for 1 adult glider.
Double this for 2 or more. Cages that are taller than longer are better as they
are tree dwellers. Each glider needs a minimum of 8 cubic feet of interior cage
space.

4. What type of accessories do I need for my glider??
All sugar gliders need to have the following in their cages:
a water bottle, one or two food dishes, a nestbox or pouch to sleep in and
hide in, nontoxic bedding for the nestbox and for the floor of the cage. You
should also have branches for them to climb on, a glider safe wheel like a
wodent wheel, and other safe chewable toys like those for hamsters or birds.

5. Do sugar gliders need special lighting??
Sugar gliders are nocturnal animals. They do not have a need for exposure to
UV lighting. However, all animals have an internal clock that helps them keep
track of day and night. This is called a photoperiod. All sugar gliders should be
kept in a location where they can have the natural cycles of light from the
outside. If you are keeping them in a room that does not have windows, then
a 12 hour on/off cycle with normal lighting will do. The same thing applies if
you live near the Arctic circle and your day/night cycles are very different than
those who live in lower latitudes. If your gliders can see the natural daylight
cycles than you do not need supplemental lighting. Because they are
nocturnal, they do not use the UV light to process vitamin D they way diurnal
reptiles do.

6. Do sugar gliders need special heating??
No. Sugar gliders need temperatures that range from 70 to 90 degrees. If you
are breeding them then I would suggest a constant temperature of 80-85
degrees. A sugar gliders normal body temperature is 85 degrees.

7. Which is better to purchase a male, or a female??
That depends on the individual sugar glider and is not really dependent on
gender. I have found that most female sugar glider are "talkers". They tend to
crab at you more and have more to say to you. Males can be more outgoing
and adventurous. The biggest difference is that when they hit maturity, males
will mark their territory much more than the female will and this results in a
slight odor that has a sweet smell to it that some people find offensive. Also,
when first coming into maturity, males will go through a nipping stage. This
normally passes within a few months, but it is a good idea not to let them
learn that this is acceptable behavior.
8. Can gliders be kept in pairs or groups or should I only get one??
Gliders in the wild and by nature are social and communal animals. They live
in colonies and the females stay with their daughters for a long time. There is
only 1 dominant male per group and sometimes one or 2 other submissive
males. Captive gliders need to have at least 4 hours of attention a day from
their caretakers. If this is a problem for you, then you should get a second
glider so that they have company. You can keep males and females together,
however if you do this you need to have a USDA license in order to sell of
give away the babies. You can also keep 2 females together. It is unwise to
keep males together because they more than likely will fight.

9. If I want a male female pair but do not want babies can gliders be
fixed??
Yes, you can neuter the males as early as 8 weeks out of the pouch. Females
can be spayed but neutering is much safer and is a more common procedure.


10. Should I get captive bred or wild caught? The wild caught ones are
so much cheaper!?
DO NOT PURCHASE A WILD CAUGHT GLIDER FOR A PET!!!! These
animals are fine for breeding stock but they are very difficult to tame down
and are prone to many health problems. There are so many high quality
captive bred sugar gliders available now that to purchase a wild caught glider
for any reason other than to expand your breeding gene pool is ridiculous.
Wild caught gliders have a shorter life span, a higher degree of health
problems, they are very difficult to tame down and they almost always have
parasites. Trying to medicate an animal that wants to have your fingers for
lunch is not a lot of fun. The best type of sugar glider to purchase as a pet is a
hand tame, socialized Joey from a reputable breeder.

11. Are sugar gliders messy??
Sugar gliders are tree dwellers. They cannot be litter trained, as most tree
dweller cannot be. They also throw their food and spit out food and urinate
everywhere. I strongly suggest that you keep your sugar gliders home off of
carpeted surfaces and away from walls, wall coverings and window
treatments that cannot be easily cleaned often (usually daily). The best
surfaces to have them on or near is sealed or glazed tile, vinyl or tile flooring,
tile board, fiberglass board, painted surfaces that have a semi-gloss to high
gloss finish and that is scrubable paint. They are about as messy as a large
parrot.

12. How old should my glider be when I purchase one??
Ideally, you sugar glider should be a hand tame, socialized, baby (Joey). The
Joey should have been kept with its mother until it was ready to be weaned.
Do not purchase "bottle fed" gliders as they were pulled way too young from
their parents and while they will make sweet pets, they are not as strong as
those raised by their parents and they do not make for good parents
themselves. A Joey should be at least 45 grams or 1 1/2 ounces when
weaned. The tail should be fully bushed out like an adults and not smooth and
flat like a mouse or gerbils tail. The Joey should be alert and curious and even
take a threat display with you (making a crabbing noise).

13. Do gliders need shots or anything like that??
No. But they should see a vet at least once a year for a checkup and a fecal
exam should be done at least twice per year.

14. What kinds of health problems do gliders have??
Almost all health problems in sugar gliders can be attributed to diet. Without
the proper amounts of vitamin E, vitamin D3, calcium, selenium and other
nutrients, your glider will suffer. The following is a list of common glider
ailments: Hind Leg Paralysis, seizures, parasites, blindness, injuries due to
fighting/aggression between cage mates, injuries from cages and accessories
in the cage, getting out of the cage, cold and heat,and self mutilation
(chewing).
Hind Leg Paralysis is a generalized term that can be actually one of several
things. First it can be actual osteodystrophy due to lack of available calcium
and Vitamin D3 in the diet. A second cause can be deficiency in Vitamin E
and Selenium in the diet, and third (and this differs from the other two as the
glider will die within 48 hours if left untreated)is a bacterial infection known as
Lysteriosis. This is transmitted from unwashed or improperly washed fruit and
vegetables to your glider.
Self mutilation occurs more frequently in males than females. It is commonly
thought to be caused by stress. If you see signs that your glider is chewing
the cloaca area (groin area) get them to a vet ASAP. This is a hard to stop
problem and it seems most gliders that do this literally chew themselves to
death. Young males who are not going to be bred should be neutered.
Females who do this should be checked for yeast infections.

15. Where can I find information on sugar gliders??
There is a very good book published by Barons and written by Caroline
MacPherson on sugar gliders. There is also a good video. Both of these items
are available on my website.

………………………………………….



You can expect to enjoy your Sugar Glider for the next 12+ years if you care
for it properly. A sugar glider, pretaurus breviceps, is native to Australia,
Papua New Guinea and the Philippines. In the wild a sugar glider will eat
nectar, flowers, fruits, gum from the acacia tree, eucalyptus, bird eggs, small
birds, small rodents, insects, manna, honeydew, and bark. It is difficult to
exactly copy their natural diet but one that is nutritionally complete is
absolutely necessary.

In addition to diet, sugar gliders do require 8 cubic feet of space per adult
glider. This is a minimum. It is best to purchase the largest cage you can
afford for them as they can glide up to 150 ft. per jump in the wild.
Sugar gliders are very social creatures. They will require at least 4 hours a
day of your undivided attention. A single glider that does not get the attention
it needs can actually die from loneliness. If you cannot spend this much time
with your glider, then you should get 2. If you cannot afford to do this then you
should look into getting another type of pet.

The Cage:

The cage for a single glider should be at least 1 1/2 feet wide by 4 feet tall by
1 1/2 feet deep. Ideally there should be a wire bottom so that any food that
falls down and feces fall through the cage bottom and into the litter.

The litter should be made of an absorbent material. Avoid Cedar and Pine
shavings. Some litters to try are Care Fresh, Critter Country, KayCob (corn
cob litter), or Aspen shavings. I personally prefer either corn cob or aspen
shavings. Some people also use alfalfa pellets for rabbits. I change the litter in
my cages daily. This keeps the odors down and prevents outbreaks of fruit
flies and other problems.

In the cage you should have at least 3 food dishes, 1 for Scenic Bird Food or
Briskys Accu Feed, 1 for fruit and crickets, and 1 for mealworms. These
should be kept up off the floor of the cage to prevent contamination from urine
and feces. A fourth dish may be used for the weekly leadbeaters mix.

Also in the cage there should be a water bottle or 2. I prefer Lixit brand
because these do not leak or drip as often if at all.

I also have a cuttle bone for small birds, a mineral wheel, a nest box and a
glider pouch. Hang all of these from the sides or top of the cage.

You should also have live branches or plants in the cage. (See list of safe and
unsafe plants for gliders) The last thing that you should have in their cage is a
Polly Pastel Perch. This will help keep the nails down so they will not need to
be trimmed as often. Cages should be thoroughly cleaned and sanitized
weekly.

Diet:

I feed each adult glider the following and I would recommend it to everyone.
This is for 1 adult glider, per night:

• 15 pieces of Scenic Bird Food or 1/8 cup of Briskys Accu Feed for Sugar
Gliders

• 1" piece of banana or 1/6 of an apple that has been peeled and cored.

• 1" square piece of papaya, peeled

• 1" square piece of melon, rind cut off
• 2 large grapes, cut in half

• 5 crickets, fed a high calcium diet

• 15 giant mealworms or superworms, gut loaded with a high calcium gut load
just a sprinkle of Rep Cal once a week on the bugs and a nightly Sprinkle of
Prime Vitamins

Also:

• 1 tablespoon of lead betters, once per week

• 1/8 of a hard boiled egg with the shell on, once per week

• Once per week substitute one of the fruits for a teaspoon of mixed veggies
(corn, carrots, peas, lima beans, green beans), frozen veggies are OK to use.
Thaw them out in hot water for a few minutes.

• For treats you can offer sunflower seeds, sesame seeds, pecans, brazil
nuts, raw peanuts, dried fruit, wax worms, raisins, boiled chicken or baby
chicken sticks, Earth's Best Baby food, or any fruit or veggie that may be their
favorite.

• Sugar gliders have a high calcium and vitamin E requirement. Without the
proper amount of these, many health problems and even death could occur.
This can be avoided with supplementation.

• You can offer them pinkie( frozen baby mice) they will eat them but it is not a
pretty sight.

• A teaspoon of yogurt with active cultures in it once a week is a nice treat.

• An alternate diet would be to feed only Brisky's Accu - Feed and just give a
mealworm or 2 or a small piece of fruit as a treat.

• Do not give them candy or chocolate!

Leadbeaters Mix - My version

1 cup baby apple juice

1/2 cup honey

1 hard boiled egg with the shell on, cut into pieces

1 jar of baby food chicken and veggies (I recommend Earth's Best or
Beechnut)

1 tablespoon of cod liver oil
1 tablespoon of Omega 3 fish oil

1 teaspoon Rep Cal

1 teaspoon Glider Booster

1 tablespoon brewers yeast

1 tablespoon wheat germ

1 cup of high protein baby cereal.

Mix all of the ingredients in a blender. Puree until smooth. Put in an airtight
container and freeze. It should be the consistency of baby food. If too loose
add more cereal. If too thick add more apple juice. It will freeze to the
consistency of soft serve ice cream. ( But it looks about as appetizing as
anchovy ice cream). Feed 1 tablespoon per week per glider.



Glider Facts:

Male gliders will develop a bald spot around 7 months of age. This is normal.
They will also start to mark their territory a lot more. Clean their cages with an
enzymatic cleaner, like Natures Miracle or use vinegar and water. Females do
not mark nearly as much as the males do.

If you are not interested in breeding, get two females, as two males will fight
as they get older. Males can be neutered. Gliders do bark, usually at night.
This is usually a call for attention. Turn on a lamp with a red light bulb in it.
This usually helps. Gliders also hiss, click, chirp, and crab (yell). It sounds a
lot like a small motor shorting out. It means leave me alone or I'll kill you.
Ignore it.

Glider do like to have toys. A parrot swing, or other climbing toys make great
fun for them. Glider Safe wheels like the Wodent Wheel are well received.
They also love their pouches. Use these to take them anywhere you go. It can
be a lot of fun. Play with your glider and handle them as much as possible
and you will have a dear friend for the next 12 or so years.



Symptoms of Illness:

Call your vet immediately if any of these symptoms appear:

• not eating

• not drinking
• trouble using rear legs

• excessive shaking/trembling

• white spots in the eyes

• constant chewing of the genital area or base of tail

• listlessness

• change in color/consistency of the feces

• Dull eyes, they should be shiny and bright

• any discharge from they eyes, nose or mouth

• any sudden change in their normal behavior

• excessive coughing or sneezing

……………………..

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Is a sugar glider for you

  • 1. Is a Sugar Glider for you? So you heard about sugar gliders and decided to look on the Internet to find out more. Just looking at the pictures you are amazed at just how cute they are. Wow aren't they cute, they are just like living cuddly toys and those big eyes and that amazing stripe running down their back. Sugar Gliders are becoming increasingly popular these days and I know that web pages like my own are partially to blame. I also know I get a number of emails each week asking me about these new pets. They have many good points but like all animals there is another side to the story. Sharp claws While it is inaccurate to call gliders flying squirrels as they are actually marsupials it is fairly accurate to call them marsupial flying squirrels. What does that mean as far as their suitability as pets? Well gliders are adapted to living, climbing and jumping to and from trees. And as such they have sharp little claws that they embed into whatever they are climbing. That includes your hands, arms and whatever other free area of skin they find and cling too. Glider owners frequently look as if they have just lost a fight with a fairly opinionated cat. Your hands and arms are almost always covered with scratches. Sugar gliders also get their name from their habits of gliding from tree to tree, as a pet this adjusts to them leaping from person to person and to furniture and back again. Many gliders have been known to wait until their owner looks at them then to jump onto their owners face, so you can also end up with a scratched up face and I would not be surprised if at least one person ends up losing their sight due to a scratched cornea or worse. Can't be housebroken/Smell Gliders are also incontinent and urinate and defecate on you without thinking about it - I have only ever heard of one person who managed to toilet train their glider. This is of course on top of having all those new scratches. This of course leads to people being allergic to gliders not because of their fur but because of their allergenic claws. Gliders being colony animals use scenting to declare dominance and the male has three scent glands 1) is on the forehead where a pronounced bald patch develops. 2) is on the chest and looks like a stain on his fur, 3) is around his anus. Gliders then mark their territory leading to pronounced odors that are difficult to overcome. In a nutshell sugar gliders smell, not as much as ferrets but 10 x as much as chinchillas. Longevity/Care Requirements Sugar Gliders will live for 10-15 years if cared for properly. They tend to bond to a person but bond better if they are young, therefore selling a glider after having it for a year or two is VERY cruel and almost inhumane. If you want a glider ask yourself
  • 2. what you will be doing in the next ten years, will you always have time to play with him, are you going to college, going to get married, planning on children,- gliders are NOT dorm animals or even really pets for when you are sharing an apartment. If you are going to college most colleges require you to spend teh first year on campus and strictly forbid pets. Therefore going to colleg and having a sugar glider as a pet may well be non compatible. If you're a person who does not have a lot of time to spend with a pet, a sugar glider is not the animal for you. Gliders are social and communal by nature, and they crave time and attention. Gliders also require at least an hour of being played with a night if not more, Are you prepared to do that regardless of new potential partners? Gliders have been studied in behavioural works on depression, and when left unattended their activity level decreases dramatically. Eventually, they become highly agitated and have even been known to die from loneliness. If you can afford to buy more than one sugar glider, it is best to do so. That way, if you get terribly busy or have to be away for periods of time, your gliders will have each other for company and stimulation. Nocturnal Sugar Gliders are nocturnal and their large eyes mean that they dislike normal daylight or electric lights. Sugar Gliders often do not wake up until 10pm or 11pm. Then you would be advised to play with them in a room with subdued lighting. This means that if you go to bed early you may never get the chance to interact with them. This is yet another reason not to get a glider if you are a child. Are they legal in your state? Before even considering adoption of a glider, you must find out if it is legal to keep a sugar glider in your state or locality. The laws and situations are different in every area, and since the exotic animal market is still in its infancy, the rules are changing all the time. Gliders are legal in most places, but protect yourself and check to be sure. One important thing to know, especially if you decide to breed your pet: In order to sell a sugar glider (or even give it away), you must have a USDA (United States Department of Agriculture) license. You do not need a license merely to own one. Dietary Requirements Sugar gliders are insectivores. They enjoy eating insects in the wild. If you can't face feeding your glider either mealworms or crickets do NOT get a sugar glider. Their natural diet also includes scavenging off small dead mammals. Zoos tend to feed their gliders a one day old chick (dead) once a week. You can provide a dry food such as Mazuri Omnivore or Insectivore food or cooked meat instead. Also a whole animal also provides calcium and vitamins more effectively than other foods. Whilst feeding baby mice/rats is not essential the insects are. This protein is supposed to be at least 25% of their diet while the rest comes from fruit and vegetables. More recent studies suggest they need up tp 35% protein. Therefore you have to cut up fruit and vegetables every night for them. This can be a lot of work and can not be neglected.
  • 3. Expensive Sugar gliders can be fairly expensive to buy with prices ranging from $100 to $400 for a single, hand-raised glider. Sugar Gliders are also expensive to keep so please don't look for a cut price glider. If you cant afford the pet, you can't afford to keep it. You should be able to afford a emergency vet visit at any time if you are a responsible owner. Housing Requirements As your pet is an arboreal animal (tree dwelling) it needs as large a cage as you can provide with tree branches inside as well as other toys such as a wheel that will not cause injury such as the wodent wheel, rope ladders etc. Our first cage was 17" by 24" by 36" high. We have now made a 24" by 24" by 60" high cage which the gliders enjoy far better. anything smaller than these sizes are cruel. Vets As a fairly new pet, there is a dearth of veterinarians that know the animal and how to treat illnesses. Please find a vet BEFORE you buy your pet. You should be able to take your pet to a knowledgeable vet 24/7 if you are wise. Fragile Although sugar gliders are healthy and hardy animals, their physical structure is small and delicate although their skulls seem to be very dense when considering the way they bounce themselves off trees many times head first. Thus, they are NOT a suitable pet for very young children, who like to squeeze the animals that they love best. Bonding You have been told that gliders are sweet animals that love human contact. They can be but it is very dependant on how the animal was raised and how often it was handled from the early stages. Some lucky people get gliders that immediately cuddle up, are incredibly sweet and never want anything more than to be your best friend. Others don't!!!! Many times when you get your glider it is scared and unsure and not used to human contact. This animal will crab at you, an ungodly racket that sounds like a miniture electric saw, so loud you would swear the animal is hiding an amplifier! It may also lunge at you and bite- hard..sometimes so hard that it draws blood. It may also run and hide and want nothing to do with you. Many people have been faced with gliders like this and are completely unprepared. This animal will require hours of contact being bitten frequently and may take months to come around. Just leaving the animal in its cage is the worst way to deal with a glider like this. Playing with them whilst sleepy and bribing them shamelesly with favourite foods are all good ways to start the bonding process. Other people carry them around in a pouch for hours allowing the animal to get used to them. I have seen countless letters asking
  • 4. why their glider is mean and hates them. It is NOT mean, it is SCARED and needs lots of love, time and affection. If you still want a sugar glider after this, then you may be the perfect person for the glider and the glider the perfect pet for you. I salute you and wish you the best- you deserve it ……………………………. Specializing in Sugar Gliders, other exotics and exotic pet care products. Linda Altman- Owner PO Box 99690, Raleigh, NC 27624-9690 Tel: (919) 847-8403 (919) 847-8403 Fax: (413) 208-0980 Complete Catalog Copyright 1997, 1998, 1999. All material on this website is copyrighted and cannot be reproduced or transmitted by any means including electronically, manually, electronically transmitted, etc. without express written consent from Southern Exotics. This includes all pricing information, pictures, care information, articles, lists, and any other information that you find here on this website. SUGAR GLIDER FAQ by Linda Altman of Southern Exotics Sugar gliders are fast becoming one of the most popular of exotic pets today! Unfortunately the veterinary community and the pet community at large has not kept up with the demand for accurate information. Treatment and care of sugar gliders is still in its infancy here in the US. I hope the following frequently asked questions will help you make an informed decision as to whether or not you should have a sugar glider for a pet or if you do have one or two already, I hope that this information helps you in your everyday care. 1. What is a sugar glider? A sugar glider is a small arboreal marsupial, closely related to the opossum,
  • 5. that is native to Australia, New Guinea, Indonesia and the Philippines. 2. What do sugar gliders eat?? A sugar gliders diet in the wild consists mainly of insects, sap, nectar, small birds and bird eggs, and lizards. In captivity you should be feeding them a diet consisting of 50% protein in the form of insects and eggs and 50% carbohydrates in the form of fruits and vegetables. I recommend using an insectivore based diet, combined with fruits and veggies. 3. What type of cage do I need?? You will need at a minimum, a cage of 2 ft x 2 ft x 2 ft for 1 adult glider. Double this for 2 or more. Cages that are taller than longer are better as they are tree dwellers. Each glider needs a minimum of 8 cubic feet of interior cage space. 4. What type of accessories do I need for my glider?? All sugar gliders need to have the following in their cages: a water bottle, one or two food dishes, a nestbox or pouch to sleep in and hide in, nontoxic bedding for the nestbox and for the floor of the cage. You should also have branches for them to climb on, a glider safe wheel like a wodent wheel, and other safe chewable toys like those for hamsters or birds. 5. Do sugar gliders need special lighting?? Sugar gliders are nocturnal animals. They do not have a need for exposure to UV lighting. However, all animals have an internal clock that helps them keep track of day and night. This is called a photoperiod. All sugar gliders should be kept in a location where they can have the natural cycles of light from the outside. If you are keeping them in a room that does not have windows, then a 12 hour on/off cycle with normal lighting will do. The same thing applies if you live near the Arctic circle and your day/night cycles are very different than those who live in lower latitudes. If your gliders can see the natural daylight cycles than you do not need supplemental lighting. Because they are nocturnal, they do not use the UV light to process vitamin D they way diurnal reptiles do. 6. Do sugar gliders need special heating?? No. Sugar gliders need temperatures that range from 70 to 90 degrees. If you are breeding them then I would suggest a constant temperature of 80-85 degrees. A sugar gliders normal body temperature is 85 degrees. 7. Which is better to purchase a male, or a female?? That depends on the individual sugar glider and is not really dependent on gender. I have found that most female sugar glider are "talkers". They tend to crab at you more and have more to say to you. Males can be more outgoing and adventurous. The biggest difference is that when they hit maturity, males will mark their territory much more than the female will and this results in a slight odor that has a sweet smell to it that some people find offensive. Also, when first coming into maturity, males will go through a nipping stage. This normally passes within a few months, but it is a good idea not to let them learn that this is acceptable behavior.
  • 6. 8. Can gliders be kept in pairs or groups or should I only get one?? Gliders in the wild and by nature are social and communal animals. They live in colonies and the females stay with their daughters for a long time. There is only 1 dominant male per group and sometimes one or 2 other submissive males. Captive gliders need to have at least 4 hours of attention a day from their caretakers. If this is a problem for you, then you should get a second glider so that they have company. You can keep males and females together, however if you do this you need to have a USDA license in order to sell of give away the babies. You can also keep 2 females together. It is unwise to keep males together because they more than likely will fight. 9. If I want a male female pair but do not want babies can gliders be fixed?? Yes, you can neuter the males as early as 8 weeks out of the pouch. Females can be spayed but neutering is much safer and is a more common procedure. 10. Should I get captive bred or wild caught? The wild caught ones are so much cheaper!? DO NOT PURCHASE A WILD CAUGHT GLIDER FOR A PET!!!! These animals are fine for breeding stock but they are very difficult to tame down and are prone to many health problems. There are so many high quality captive bred sugar gliders available now that to purchase a wild caught glider for any reason other than to expand your breeding gene pool is ridiculous. Wild caught gliders have a shorter life span, a higher degree of health problems, they are very difficult to tame down and they almost always have parasites. Trying to medicate an animal that wants to have your fingers for lunch is not a lot of fun. The best type of sugar glider to purchase as a pet is a hand tame, socialized Joey from a reputable breeder. 11. Are sugar gliders messy?? Sugar gliders are tree dwellers. They cannot be litter trained, as most tree dweller cannot be. They also throw their food and spit out food and urinate everywhere. I strongly suggest that you keep your sugar gliders home off of carpeted surfaces and away from walls, wall coverings and window treatments that cannot be easily cleaned often (usually daily). The best surfaces to have them on or near is sealed or glazed tile, vinyl or tile flooring, tile board, fiberglass board, painted surfaces that have a semi-gloss to high gloss finish and that is scrubable paint. They are about as messy as a large parrot. 12. How old should my glider be when I purchase one?? Ideally, you sugar glider should be a hand tame, socialized, baby (Joey). The Joey should have been kept with its mother until it was ready to be weaned. Do not purchase "bottle fed" gliders as they were pulled way too young from their parents and while they will make sweet pets, they are not as strong as those raised by their parents and they do not make for good parents themselves. A Joey should be at least 45 grams or 1 1/2 ounces when weaned. The tail should be fully bushed out like an adults and not smooth and
  • 7. flat like a mouse or gerbils tail. The Joey should be alert and curious and even take a threat display with you (making a crabbing noise). 13. Do gliders need shots or anything like that?? No. But they should see a vet at least once a year for a checkup and a fecal exam should be done at least twice per year. 14. What kinds of health problems do gliders have?? Almost all health problems in sugar gliders can be attributed to diet. Without the proper amounts of vitamin E, vitamin D3, calcium, selenium and other nutrients, your glider will suffer. The following is a list of common glider ailments: Hind Leg Paralysis, seizures, parasites, blindness, injuries due to fighting/aggression between cage mates, injuries from cages and accessories in the cage, getting out of the cage, cold and heat,and self mutilation (chewing). Hind Leg Paralysis is a generalized term that can be actually one of several things. First it can be actual osteodystrophy due to lack of available calcium and Vitamin D3 in the diet. A second cause can be deficiency in Vitamin E and Selenium in the diet, and third (and this differs from the other two as the glider will die within 48 hours if left untreated)is a bacterial infection known as Lysteriosis. This is transmitted from unwashed or improperly washed fruit and vegetables to your glider. Self mutilation occurs more frequently in males than females. It is commonly thought to be caused by stress. If you see signs that your glider is chewing the cloaca area (groin area) get them to a vet ASAP. This is a hard to stop problem and it seems most gliders that do this literally chew themselves to death. Young males who are not going to be bred should be neutered. Females who do this should be checked for yeast infections. 15. Where can I find information on sugar gliders?? There is a very good book published by Barons and written by Caroline MacPherson on sugar gliders. There is also a good video. Both of these items are available on my website. …………………………………………. You can expect to enjoy your Sugar Glider for the next 12+ years if you care for it properly. A sugar glider, pretaurus breviceps, is native to Australia, Papua New Guinea and the Philippines. In the wild a sugar glider will eat nectar, flowers, fruits, gum from the acacia tree, eucalyptus, bird eggs, small birds, small rodents, insects, manna, honeydew, and bark. It is difficult to exactly copy their natural diet but one that is nutritionally complete is absolutely necessary. In addition to diet, sugar gliders do require 8 cubic feet of space per adult glider. This is a minimum. It is best to purchase the largest cage you can afford for them as they can glide up to 150 ft. per jump in the wild.
  • 8. Sugar gliders are very social creatures. They will require at least 4 hours a day of your undivided attention. A single glider that does not get the attention it needs can actually die from loneliness. If you cannot spend this much time with your glider, then you should get 2. If you cannot afford to do this then you should look into getting another type of pet. The Cage: The cage for a single glider should be at least 1 1/2 feet wide by 4 feet tall by 1 1/2 feet deep. Ideally there should be a wire bottom so that any food that falls down and feces fall through the cage bottom and into the litter. The litter should be made of an absorbent material. Avoid Cedar and Pine shavings. Some litters to try are Care Fresh, Critter Country, KayCob (corn cob litter), or Aspen shavings. I personally prefer either corn cob or aspen shavings. Some people also use alfalfa pellets for rabbits. I change the litter in my cages daily. This keeps the odors down and prevents outbreaks of fruit flies and other problems. In the cage you should have at least 3 food dishes, 1 for Scenic Bird Food or Briskys Accu Feed, 1 for fruit and crickets, and 1 for mealworms. These should be kept up off the floor of the cage to prevent contamination from urine and feces. A fourth dish may be used for the weekly leadbeaters mix. Also in the cage there should be a water bottle or 2. I prefer Lixit brand because these do not leak or drip as often if at all. I also have a cuttle bone for small birds, a mineral wheel, a nest box and a glider pouch. Hang all of these from the sides or top of the cage. You should also have live branches or plants in the cage. (See list of safe and unsafe plants for gliders) The last thing that you should have in their cage is a Polly Pastel Perch. This will help keep the nails down so they will not need to be trimmed as often. Cages should be thoroughly cleaned and sanitized weekly. Diet: I feed each adult glider the following and I would recommend it to everyone. This is for 1 adult glider, per night: • 15 pieces of Scenic Bird Food or 1/8 cup of Briskys Accu Feed for Sugar Gliders • 1" piece of banana or 1/6 of an apple that has been peeled and cored. • 1" square piece of papaya, peeled • 1" square piece of melon, rind cut off
  • 9. • 2 large grapes, cut in half • 5 crickets, fed a high calcium diet • 15 giant mealworms or superworms, gut loaded with a high calcium gut load just a sprinkle of Rep Cal once a week on the bugs and a nightly Sprinkle of Prime Vitamins Also: • 1 tablespoon of lead betters, once per week • 1/8 of a hard boiled egg with the shell on, once per week • Once per week substitute one of the fruits for a teaspoon of mixed veggies (corn, carrots, peas, lima beans, green beans), frozen veggies are OK to use. Thaw them out in hot water for a few minutes. • For treats you can offer sunflower seeds, sesame seeds, pecans, brazil nuts, raw peanuts, dried fruit, wax worms, raisins, boiled chicken or baby chicken sticks, Earth's Best Baby food, or any fruit or veggie that may be their favorite. • Sugar gliders have a high calcium and vitamin E requirement. Without the proper amount of these, many health problems and even death could occur. This can be avoided with supplementation. • You can offer them pinkie( frozen baby mice) they will eat them but it is not a pretty sight. • A teaspoon of yogurt with active cultures in it once a week is a nice treat. • An alternate diet would be to feed only Brisky's Accu - Feed and just give a mealworm or 2 or a small piece of fruit as a treat. • Do not give them candy or chocolate! Leadbeaters Mix - My version 1 cup baby apple juice 1/2 cup honey 1 hard boiled egg with the shell on, cut into pieces 1 jar of baby food chicken and veggies (I recommend Earth's Best or Beechnut) 1 tablespoon of cod liver oil
  • 10. 1 tablespoon of Omega 3 fish oil 1 teaspoon Rep Cal 1 teaspoon Glider Booster 1 tablespoon brewers yeast 1 tablespoon wheat germ 1 cup of high protein baby cereal. Mix all of the ingredients in a blender. Puree until smooth. Put in an airtight container and freeze. It should be the consistency of baby food. If too loose add more cereal. If too thick add more apple juice. It will freeze to the consistency of soft serve ice cream. ( But it looks about as appetizing as anchovy ice cream). Feed 1 tablespoon per week per glider. Glider Facts: Male gliders will develop a bald spot around 7 months of age. This is normal. They will also start to mark their territory a lot more. Clean their cages with an enzymatic cleaner, like Natures Miracle or use vinegar and water. Females do not mark nearly as much as the males do. If you are not interested in breeding, get two females, as two males will fight as they get older. Males can be neutered. Gliders do bark, usually at night. This is usually a call for attention. Turn on a lamp with a red light bulb in it. This usually helps. Gliders also hiss, click, chirp, and crab (yell). It sounds a lot like a small motor shorting out. It means leave me alone or I'll kill you. Ignore it. Glider do like to have toys. A parrot swing, or other climbing toys make great fun for them. Glider Safe wheels like the Wodent Wheel are well received. They also love their pouches. Use these to take them anywhere you go. It can be a lot of fun. Play with your glider and handle them as much as possible and you will have a dear friend for the next 12 or so years. Symptoms of Illness: Call your vet immediately if any of these symptoms appear: • not eating • not drinking
  • 11. • trouble using rear legs • excessive shaking/trembling • white spots in the eyes • constant chewing of the genital area or base of tail • listlessness • change in color/consistency of the feces • Dull eyes, they should be shiny and bright • any discharge from they eyes, nose or mouth • any sudden change in their normal behavior • excessive coughing or sneezing ……………………..