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#08
ISSUE 08 / YEAR 01
Jewellery Historian
index
#08Jewellery Historian004
news
portraits
14 Basel World 2015 Elegance & Brilliance
16 Pasquale Bruni at Basel World 2015
18 Fabergé An objet d'art masterpiece
Omi Privé Grand prize 0f 2015 JCK Jewelers’ Choice
22 Sotheby's appoints David Bennett Jewelry Chairman
Meghna Patel Adventurous, luxurius & wearable
46 Chimento Hand-made beauty & versality
Gumuchian a collction for bees
20
32
72
musts Editor's Letter Passion for creativity
10 Issue Globe The designers at a glance
09
Mousson Atelier beauty setted in precious metals88
inspiration Adler introduces Flora, the fruit of artisanal expertise
138 Amethyst The breathtaking beauty of gems
Our Faves we introduce you to our Secret Garden
128
146
March 2015
Jewellery Historian 005
Zolotas introduces the Love letter collection
28 Avakian at the Doha jewelry & watches exhibition
26
Jewellery Historian
ISSUE 08, YEAR 01
MARCH 2015
Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier
Founder & Editor-in-chief
***
CONTRIBUTORS
Eva Kountouraki
Martin Huynh
Christina Rodopoulou
***
LAY-OUT & DESIGN
Jewellery Historian
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www.jewelleryhistorian.com
info@jewelleryhistorian.com
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H O M O E V O L U T I O N
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JEWELLERY HISTORIAN © 2015
All material published in this e-magazine and at www.jewelleryhistorian.com is published with permission of the brands and designers. Unless otherwise authorized in
writing by the Jewellery Historian, it is strictly prohibited to reproduce, in whole or in part, and by any way, the content of this e-magazine. While precautions have been
take to ensure the accuracy of the contents of our magazine and digital brands, neither the editors, publishers or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or
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inaccurate, delayed or incomplete information. The information contained has been provided by individual brands, event organizers, brands or organizations
without verification by us. The opinions expressed in articles are the author's own and do not reflect the view of the Jewellery Historian, the editor-in-chief and team of
the magazine, or of any part related to the magazine.
Partial or entire reproduction of the material of this site is strictly prohibited.The content, entire edition, graphics, design, and other matters related to this issue are
protected under applicable copyrights and other proprietary laws, including but not limited to intellectual property laws. The copying, reproduction, use, modification
or publication by you of any such matters or any part of the material is strictly prohibited, without our express prior written permission.All trade names, trademarks or
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(links) .The presence of links (links) in the Jewellery Historian Web pages is for informational purposes only.
Our articles may contain photos/texts/graphics/designs that belong to third parties. They are published for information purposes only and with permission of the
brands.
The Jewellery Historian is publishing articles about jewellery, auctions, jewellery designers, gemology, gemstones, etc. All trademarks mentioned in the Jewellery
Historian’s website and/or e-magazine belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned
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implying a violation of copyright law.
Jewellery Historian008
Founder & Editor-in-Chief
Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier
editor's letter
Thisissueisdefinitelyaspringissue.Itislikeagarden,featuringuniqueandtalenteddesignersfromallovertheworld,likeeach
one of our issues. Since our first issue our main mission is to promote, inspire and educate and for this reason we look for
designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality in all aspects. We are grateful to all brands
and designers that decided to share their creativity and vision with us all, since many refused our invitation.
With as a main goal to provide the highest-quality content for free on the internet, while keeping access to our e-magazine
free to all users worldwide, we believe in free education of every person. Education is the key to building better lives for
hundredsofmillionsworldwide.Foruseducationisafundamentalrightthatrequiresfreedeliveryandfreeaccesstomaterial
of high quality. But education is definitely the centre of huge economic interests. We believe in free education and we also
believe that brands should support, financially and morally, initiatives that want to offer free access and information in order
to promote designers & brands and educate readers for free. They should support "open source" initiatives instead of trying
only to sell something. To the ones that support us morally we are thankful.
One of our goals is to offer free knowledge, by offering free material to people interested in creativity, interested in
discovering the amazing universe, the expertise and vision of famous international maisons. We believe and work with the
goalofraisingtheawarenessofjewellery&watchdesignasaformofcreativeexpression.TheJewelleryHistorianisoneofthe
few free e-magazines worldwide, related to jewellery & timepieces, to offer for free such a quality of editorial line and
photographytoitsreaders.Allthisismadewithnofinancialsupportfromanyoneanditwillcontinuetobemadeforaslongas
we will be able to do it.
Passion
Jewellery Historian 009
Jewellery Historian010
issue globe
Meghna PATEL
Meghna Jewels is the fine jewelry line by designer Meghna
Patel. After launching a successful trend jewelry line in 2011,
Patel transitioned into fine jewelry 2014. Inspired by her Indian
heritage, Patel uses bold precious stones, layering her designs
with her signature diamond pave arches. Overall, Patel’s
process is simple and organic. Receiving constant inspiration
for her designs through anything she falls in with at first sight,
her pieces embody all the little elements that come into her
life from the places she has lived and traveled.
GUMUCHIAN
Gumuchian is a gem of a jewelry
collection that’s treasured by the
cognoscenti who can spot true
European craftsmanship and superior
design a mile away. Owned and
operated with meticulous attention
to quality by Anita Gumuchian and
daughters Myriam and Patricia, this
boutique company is proud to do it all,
from the selection of brilliant
diamonds through their family-run
offices in Antwerp, to the actual
manufacturing in the heart of New
York.
In every issue we introduce to you, jewellery designers, brands and
artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality in all
aspects. Meet the artists & columnists featured in this issue.
Jewellery Historian 011
CHIMENTO
Since 1964 the CHIMENTO family has been
associated with unique and exclusive
creations using gold as the undisputed
protagonist. Showcasing a unique mix of
creativity, craftsmanship and attention to
detail, CHIMENTO’s creations have
become synonym with top quality 18k
gold Italian Jewelry.All CHIMENTO
collections are a perfect blend of tradition
and design, setting the new classic
benchmarks of Italian jewelry with their
elegant, refined and contemporary style.
Eva KOUNTOURAKI
Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of goldsmiths and
jewelers. Eva’s brilliant path in the field of gemology was crowned
by her collaboration with the Italian branch of GIA, the world
famous Gemological Institute of America.
Eva received special training from professional and experienced
gemologist of GIA Italy, New York and California US, and for more
than a decade she teaches gemology and jewelry design in GIA,
transferring her experience, knowledge and passion for diamonds,
gems and jewelry to her students -famous professionals from
around world.
At the Jewellery Historian we are proud to have in our team Eva
Kountouraki and her monthly column in every issue. Every month,
discover a new gemstone and the "Unique breathtaking beauty of
gems". In this issue discover and learn about the amethyst.
MOUSSON ATELIER
Mousson Atelier was founded in 2008 in St. Petersburg, Russia.
Atelier was born as a result of an alliance of professionals with
over 20 years experience in creating jewelry and collecting
unique gemstones. Today Mousson Atelier keeps the family
tradition of innovation and creates jewelry in a modern &
classic style. Innovation in design and manufacturing quality
are the key principles of the company. They pay great
importance to creating jewellery that is valuable ultimately in
its beauty.
Jewellery Historian012
news
Boutique openings, coffee table books, auctions, exhibitions & events.
Everything new jewellery lovers must know, is here.
Jewellery Historian 013
PhotocourtesyofBaselworld
Jewellery Historian014
Brilliance & Elegance
Baselworld 2015
Baselworld, the most highly acclaimed
show in the world of timepieces and
jewellery is also the venue where all the
key global players of the diamonds,
pearls and gemstones industry unite
under one roof to display their most
spectacular items.
AttheupcomingBaselworld2015,from
March 19 to March 26, 2015, the crème
de la crème of diamonds, gemstones
and pearls will be showcased for the
world's top jewellers, designers and
manufacturers to discover.
Baselworldhasbecomethelifebloodof
the watch and jewellery industry, and
dominates the annual schedule of
luxury brands.
The worldwide impact of the show is
tremendous and brands presenting
their products at Baselworld, are sure
that the most important buyers from all
over the world will be there to see them.
Baselworld is poised once again to
capture the hearts and minds of
everyone interested in the global
watch and jewellery industry. With
around 1,500 prestigious brands
representing every sector expected to
participate, Baselworld 2015 will bring
together all the key players from
watchmakers to jewellers, from
diamond,pearlandgemstonedealers
through to machinery manufacturers
and other suppliers.
Itisthesinglemostimportanteventthat
helps companies strengthen their
business and establish new
partnerships, sign important contracts
or diversify their supply chain.
The 2014 edition attracted more than
1,500 exhibitors from 40 countries,
150,000 visitors from 100 countries and
4,000 journalists from 70 countries.
The big diversity attendees coming
from all five continents is what makes
the exhibition tick. More importantly
the world`s most renowned brands
showcase their collections exclusively
at Baselworld and do not attend any
other exhibitions, further adding value
to visiting professionals and company
representatives.
Baselworld 2015
March 19 to March 26, 2015
Messe Basel, Switzerland
Opening times:
Daily from 9 am to 6 pm
(except Thursday, March 26: 9 am to 4 pm)
Jewellery Historian 015
PhotocourtesyofBaselworldPhotocourtesyofBaselworldPhotocourtesyofBaselworld
PhotocourtesyofBaselworld
Jewellery Historian016
PhotocourtesyofPASQUALEBRUNI©PASQUALEBRUNI
Baselworld 2015
Pasquale Bruni presents the new
creation of the iconic collection
Prato Fiorito, a unique set that
seduce by the refinement of its
craftsmanship and the gems of rare
beauty.
A creation capable of combining
the excellence of Italian
manufacturing with an
unmistakable contemporary style.
The fine jewellery by Pasquale Bruni
is masterfully expressed in the
exquisite Fiori in Fiore necklace. Pink
sapphires magically blend into the
luminosity of diamonds set in white
gold.
A pavé flower and a drop of
multifaceted morganite are the
heart of this exquisite necklace.
Each tiny flower that makes it up is
attached to its neighbour by gold
wire. The result is like a magnificent
piece of embroidery which allows
glimpses of the skin and designs
petalstodressupthedécolleté.Itisa
piece of jewellery which depending
on what it is worn with adapts to the
feminine mood desired.
The collier is composed of 3421
diamonds for a total of 31,51carats,
one 4,46 carats morganite and 258
pink sapphires for a total of 10,54
carats. The set is completed by
chandelier earrings in white gold,
diamonds and pink sapphires.
The new creation will be unveiled at
the prestigious Baselworld 2015,
which takes place from March 19
to March 26, 2015, Messe Basel,
Switzerland.
Jewellery Historian 017
PhotocourtesyofPASQUALEBRUNI©PASQUALEBRUNI
Jewellery Historian018
PhotocourtesyofFABERGE©FABERGE
An objet d'art Masterpiece
FABERGÉ
PEARL EGG
Fabergé, the world’s most iconic artist jeweller, today
revives its revered tradition of creating the most precious
and coveted of objets d’art.
Paying homage to the forthcoming centenary of the last
Fabergé Imperial Eggs ever delivered, Fabergé has crafted
an extraordinary, one-of-kind egg objet in collaboration
with the Al-Fardan family, one of the world’s most
renowned collectors of pearls.
The Fabergé Pearl Egg is the first egg created in the
‘Imperial Class’ since 1917 where the Fabergé name and
the Fabergé family have been united.
Pearls have been coveted and treasured for millennia,
linked inextricably with royalty, style and status. Fabergé is
delighted to celebrate these "jewels of the sea" in the
exquisite Fabergé Pearl Egg.
The Fabergé Pearl Egg draws inspiration from the formation
of a pearl within an oyster, and the egg’s painstakingly-
crafted mother-of-pearl exterior opens to reveal a unique
grey pearl of 12.17 carats, sourced from the Arabian Gulf
and exhibiting exceptional purity and a highly unusual
shade of grey.
Harnessing 20 highly skilled workmasters, the objet
embodies 139 fine, white pearls with a golden lustre, 3,305
diamonds, carved rock crystal and mother-of-pearl set on
white and yellow gold. Each pearl adorning the Fabergé
Pearl Egg was hand-selected by Hussain Ibrahim Al- Fardan
from his private collection. An ingenious mechanism
enables the entire outer shell to rotate on its base,
simultaneously opening in six sections to unveil its treasure.
The Pearl Egg is accompanied by a sumptuous Fabergé
necklace of white pearls, diamonds and mother of pearl
featuring a scallop motif, and finished with an exquisite
19.44 carat white pearl drop.
Hussain Ibrahim Al-Fardan, Chairman of the Alfardan
Group, commented: “I have a passion for natural pearls
and it took me many years to build my current collection
gathering some of the most extraordinary pearls in the
world. Fabergé has a great history in making jewellery for
royalty and a truly precious Fabergé Egg is a luxury treasure
and the symbol of a long-gone era of opulence. This is why I
partnered with Fabergé to combine these two traditional
treasures: the Fabergé Egg and natural Arabian Gulf pearls,
to create an exceptional piece.”
Robert Benvenuto, Fabergé President, said: “We are
delighted to be sharing this historic moment - the unveiling
of the Fabergé Pearl Egg - with Mr Hussain and Mr Ali Al-
Fardan in Doha. It is a distinct pleasure and privilege for me
and the Fabergé team to have collaborated with them in
sourcing some of the finest pearls in the world for this
creation. We hold our partnership, and indeed our
friendship, with Mr Hussain and Mr Ali Al-Fardan, in the
highest regard.”
For thousands of years, the most desirable and valuable
naturalpearlscamefromtheArabianGulf,theRedSeaand
the Gulf of Manaar in South East Asia. In the Middle East in
particular, pearl- fishing was the pillar of the regional
economy, booming in the 18th and 19th centuries as
demand soared. The introduction of cultured pearls at the
beginning of the 20th century and the exhaustion of oyster
beds in the region contributed to the decline of the pearl
trade, and saw the oil industry become the predominant
source of wealth in the Gulf.
As a result, natural oriental pearls have become highly
sought-after wonders of nature given their beauty and
lustre.
The Fabergé Pearl Egg was unveiled at the prestigious
Doha Watch and Jewellery Exhibition, which took place
from 23rd to 28th February 2015 at the Qatar National
Convention Centre, Doha.
Jewellery Historian 019
PhotocourtesyofFABERGE©FABERGE
Jewellery Historian020
PhotocourtesyofOMIPRIVÉ©OMIPRIVÉ
AWARDED GRAND
PRIZE OF 2015 JCK
JEWELERS’ CHOICE
AWARDS
OMI PRIVÉ
Fine gemstone jewelry designer, Omi Privé, is awarded the
Grand Prize in the eighth annual JCK Jewelers’ Choice
Awards.Retailjewelersfromaroundtheworldvotedthe4.33
carat Lightning Ridge black opal ring by Omi Privé as the
“Best Ring Design over $10,000,” and the Grand Prize winner.
Eachyearawardsaregiveninmultiplecategories;thepiece
that earns the most votes is honored with the Grand Prize.
The JCK Jewelers’ Choice Awards is the industry’s biggest
retailer-determined design competition. Celebrating its
eighth year, Jewelers’ Choice continues to challenge
designers and manufacturers to create innovative and
salable pieces and to offer retailers the opportunity to vote
on their favorites.
The focus of the award winning ring is the extraordinary play
of color in the center black opal. The opal is accentuated
with 0.46 carats of trillion green tsavorite garnets and 0.24
carats of round blue sapphires. The shank of the ring sparkles
with 0.42 carats of brilliant round diamonds. The ring was
crafted by hand in 18K yellow gold in Los Angeles, California.
"We are honored to win the Grand Prize award; it is very
meaningfultome,asjewelryretailersaretheonesthatvoted
onourpiece!"saysNiveetNagpal,PresidentandDesignerof
Omi Privé. "My passion lies in color, and I am especially
pleased with the way the colors come together in this ring. I
am excited and honored that it has been recognized
amongst so many beautiful entries."
Omi Privé also earned merits with its black opal and tsavorite
garnet ring. This piece was announced as a finalist in the
category of “Platinum Jewelry over $10,000.”
Omi Privé designs have been honored in the JCK Jewelers’
Choice Awards each year since the brand’s launch in 2012.
The award winning opal ring is featured on the March 2015
cover of JCK Magazine. Further details of the ring may be
viewed online at OmiPrivé.com or viewed in person May
28th through June 1st at The Couture show, Wynn Las Vegas,
Salon 143.
Omi Privé joins the passion of superior craftsmanship with the
ultimate beauty of fine rare gemstones. As purveyors of the
world’s greatest rarities, they select only the finest
gemstones of unsurpassed quality for their fine jewelry
designs and many have been featured also in the Jewellery
Historian.
Every Omi Privé piece is handcrafted in the United States,
and exceeds the most exacting standards. Uniting the
nature of the gemstone with the art of design is their
specialty.
Please visit www.omiprive.com to view their complete
collection.
Jewellery Historian 021
PhotocourtesyofOMIPRIVÉ©OMIPRIVÉ
Business
In his new global role, Bennett — who is based in Geneva, Switzerland,
will help design and implement a strategy of continued expansion and
business development for the jewelry branch of the auction house.
Jewelry sales at Sotheby’s in 2014 garnered $603 million, the highest
annual total for the category ever. It also marked the third year in a row
of record jewelry sales for Sotheby’s.
SOTHEBY'S appoints
David Bennett
Jewelry Division Chairman
Jewellery Historian022
PhotocourtesyofSotheby's
Jewellery Historian 023
Daryl Wickstrom, International Managing Director of
Sotheby’s Jewellery & Watch Divisions, on March 5,
2015 announcedtheappointmentofDavidBennettto
the newly- created position of Worldwide Chairman of
Sotheby’s International Jewellery Division.
Mr. Wickstrom commented: “David Bennett has led
Sotheby’sjewellerysalesinEuropetoanincrediblelistof
historic results over the course of his four decades with
the Company. He is celebrated and respected
throughout this field for his impressive scholarship,
extensive knowledge of jewellery and precious stones,
and consummate skills as an auctioneer. Sotheby’s
global sales of jewellery are experiencing some of the
fastest growth among the many collecting categories
we offer, and in this new global role David will help
design and implement a strategy for the continued
expansion and development of this critical arm of our
business. With the support of a network of jewellery
expertsthatisunparalleledintheauctionmarket,ledby
Lisa Hubbard, Chairman North & South America,
Sotheby’s Jewellery, Quek Chin Yeow, Chairman Asia,
Sotheby’s Jewellery, and Patti Wong, Chairman of
Sotheby’s Diamonds, the Company stands in a unique
position to serve our rapidly-expanding client base.”
Mr. Bennett said: “Sotheby’s jewellery sales are in an
excellent position to experience continued growth
beyond our recent record results, which culminated in
2014 with our highest-ever annual total of more than
$600 million in sales. Our client base is constantly
expanding – buyers from more than 74 countries
participated in our auctions last year in New York,
Geneva, Hong Kong and London, with a quarter of all
biddersparticipatinginaSotheby’sauctionfortheirfirst
time. I look forward to working with Lisa, Chin Yeow,
Patti, and our international senior specialist team to
continue building an exciting, diverse and innovative
jewellerybusinessthatservesbothnewandestablished
collectors and influential members of the trade on a
global basis."
Under Mr. Bennett’s leadership, Sotheby’s Geneva has
presented many jewels of supreme historical
importance, among them the legendary “Beau
Sancy”, a diamond that had once graced the
collection of Henry IV of France, and the magnificent
emeraldanddiamondtiaraformerlyinthecollectionof
PrincessKatharinaHenckelvonDonnersmarck.Heisthe
co-author, with Daniela Mascetti, of the celebrated
reference book Understanding Jewellery, in print since
1989, and Celebrating Jewellery (2012).
SOTHEBY'S app
oints
David Bennett
Jewelry Division
Chairman
Jewellery Historian024
PhotocourtesyofSotheby's
In the Geneva-based
role, Bennett will design
and implement a
strategy for the
continued expansion
and development of
Sotheby’s global jewelry
business, which the
auction house says is
one of its fastest
growing categories,
achieving $603 million in
sales in 2014.
During his tenure, Mr. Bennett has presided over many record-breaking
sales, including the “Graff Pink” that set the current auction record for
any diamond and any jewel when it sold for $46.2 million in November
2010, as well as an extraordinary seven 100+ carat diamonds. He has
beeninstrumentalinpresentingmanyofSotheby’smosticonicjewellery
auctions, including the Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor (1987), the
PrincelyCollectionsofThurnandTaxis(1992),andthecollectionsofAva
Gardner, H.H. Begum Sultan Mohamed Shah Aga Khan, Maria Callas,
Gina Lollobrigida and, most recently, Dimitri Mavrommatis.
Jewellery Historian 025
InfographicbyJEWELLERYHISTORIANwithdatacourtesyofSotheby'sInfographicbyJEWELLERYHISTORIANwithdatacourtesyofSotheby's
PhotocourtesyofZOLOTAS©ZOLOTAS
Jewellery Historian026
new collection by
Love Letter
PhotocourtesyofZOLOTAS©ZOLOTAS
Jewellery Historian 027
Love is a face, a name dressed in words, words
expressing emotions. For Valentine's Day, ZOLOTAS
House of Jewelry, inspired by the romantic power of
a love letter, created and introduced the "Love
Letter" collection in silver and gold, definitely a
unique way to express your love by engraving this
one word that will stay forever.
The ZOLOTAS house of jewelry has been writing
history in the Decorative Arts since 1895. The house’s
distinctive rings, drop earrings, necklaces and
bracelets have been in the front line for more than a
century.
ThehouseofZOLOTAScelebratesthetimelessnessof
luxury with creations that reflect history, tradition
and passion for the 'unique'.This unique display
of the love has attracted international
recognition of important personages,
celebrities, social and political elite, such
as Elizabeth Taylor , Jacqueline Kennedy,
the Kennedy family, Catherine Deneuve,
Grace Kelly, shipping magnate Aristotle
Onassis, all sought Zolotas creations.
At the Jewellery Historian, we really loved
the ‘Love Letter’ bracelet in 18KT yellow
gold set with a diamond and a gold chain
and the ‘Love Letter’ pendant in 18KT pink
gold set with a diamond and a pink gold
chain.
With a retail price of €450 for each, this
bracelet ( and the pendant as well) is an
absolute must-have for all romantics
fashionistas who know how to make a
statement of elegance.
The real bonus, is that you can engrave the
back side with a private message, word or
even a name. All you have to do is to ask for it
and ZOLOTAS will do it for you. We asked to
ZOLOTAS to do it for us and the result is
gorgeous.
You can buy them in the ZOLOTAS boutiques
in Athens, but also at the webstore of
ZOLOTAS (www.zolotas.gr). For engraving
in the back of the letter, please add your
message, name or word in your order or
contact ZOLOTAS by phone.
To view the new collection visit a ZOLOTAS
Boutique or visit the official website and
webstore, that will send it directly to your
home.
www.zolotas.gr
PhotocourtesyofZOLOTAS©ZOLOTAS
Jewellery Historian028
PhotocourtesyofAVAKIAN©AVAKIAN
at the Doha Jewellery
and Watches
Exhibition 2015
AVAKIAN
With boutiques in Geneva, London,
Moscow, Beverly Hills and New York, and
plans for Middle East, Asian and Russian
expansion, Avakian has long been geared
towards clients who seek the extraordinary
- from extravagant crowns worn at the
weddings of princes and princesses, to
elaborate bespoke commissions for
governments and oligarchs.
A third-generation family jeweler, Avakian
is accustomed to serving royalty, heads of
state and the Hollywood elite.At Avakian,
their design influences are as eclectic and
international as their family history.
Bulgarian-born, American-educated
Edmond Avakian, a civil engineer and a
trained gemmologist, joined the jewelery
businesshisparentshadstartedinLebanon.
Edmond would later relocate to Geneva,
opening his very first boutique there as well
as four more round the world, before
appointing his children, Haig and Corinne,
as directors of the company.
Being a family owned business allows
Avakian to respond immediately when
clients call them with urgent requests for
customised pieces, and in some cases,
hand delivery. It means they regularly work
with some of the same stone suppliers and
the same Swiss and Italian workshops which
we’ve been working with for over 30 years –
all of them dedicated to remarkable
craftsmanship, be it goldsmithing,
enamelling or stone-setting.
It also allows them to offer a uniquely
personal service. In particular in Beverly
Hills, against Rodeo Drive’s backdrop of
global luxury powerhouses, family-owned
Avakian has a special cachet. Customers
visiting the boutique in the legendary
Beverly Wilshire hotel know they can speak
directly to a member of the Avakian family.
This year, AVAKIAN participated at the
Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition
2015, which was held in Doha from
February 24 to February 28 at the Qatar
National Convention Centre.
The Doha Jewellery and Watches
Exhibition is an unprecedented artisan
exhibition of the world’s most luxurious
jewellery and watches. Held annually in
Qatar it attracts world renown jewellers,
watch makers and exhibitors and jewellery
enthusiasts. The aims of the exhibition are to
demonstratethelatesttrendsintheindustry
today; showcase the most magnificent
gemstones and sophisticated timepieces
in the world; portray the dynamism of Qatar
and its strong and progressive economy;
and to encourage foreign investors to
Qatar.
We are proud to showcase some pieces of
Haute Joaillerie that AVAKIAN presented
at the Doha Jewellery and Watches
Exhibition 2015.
Jewellery Historian 029
PhotocourtesyofAVAKIAN©AVAKIANPhotocourtesyofAVAKIAN©AVAKIANPhotocourtesyofAVAKIAN©AVAKIAN
PhotocourtesyofAVAKIAN©AVAKIAN
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Jewellery Historian032
PhotocourtesyofMEGHNAJEWELS
©MEGHNAJEWELS
Meghna Jewels is the fine jewelry line by
designer Meghna Patel. Based is Chicago,
and launched in 2014, the brand is defined
by its use of stones, diamonds, and structural
silver and gold to develop adventurous,
luxurious and wearable pieces.
After launching a successful trend jewelry
line in 2011, Patel transitioned into fine
jewelry. The trend jewelry pieces were an
instant hit and have graced by many
publications and has also been worn by
Blake Lively and Kelly Rutherford in the hit TV
Show “GOSSIP GIRL”. The trend line was
carried in many reputed stores including
Calypso St. Barth, Tootsies, Fred Segal,
Sophie’s Closet (Dubai) and many more.
The move has given the designer the
opportunity to focus more on the intricate
designs and details of jewelry rather than
mass production. Meghna believes that,
across all cultures, jewelry is what completes
any outfit and that every detail in design
should be specific and deliberate.
“My pieces are the product of my
imagination and things that inspire me in
everyday life. I want to design jewelry that
captivates womens’ heart and soul.”
Meghna’s process is organic, starting simply
with a sketch on a piece of paper. With
constant inspiration for her designs through
anything she falls in love with at first sight, her
pieces embody all the little elements that
come into her life from the places she has
lived and traveled. >
A d v e n t u r o u s , l u x u r i u s & w e a r a b l e
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©MEGHNAJEWELS
> Inspired by her Indian heritage, Patel uses
bold precious stones, layering her designs
with her signature diamond pave arches.
“It’s all about the touches of color, mixing
black and white diamonds with beautifully
cut stones to add that little pop,” says the
designer, “I love playing with the structural
element of lines and symmetry and
combining that with aspects of my Indian
lineage by using colorful stones to give my
jewels that extra something.”
Overall, Patel’s process is simple and
organic.
Receiving constant inspiration for her
designs through anything she falls in with at
first sight, her pieces embody all the little
elements
that come into her life from the places she
has lived and traveled. “What I hope to
convey with every bracelet or ring,” says
Patel, “is a warm invitation to go where I
have been and see what I have witnessed
around the globe.”
What makes Meghna Jewels amazing is the
purity of the design line that mixes a unique
cultural heritage, the one of the designer to
the world cultural heritage.
Her creations are an amazing start and at the
Jewellery Historian we are proud and very
happy to showcase her work. As a
gemologist and a jewellery designer myself,
I am definitely sure that in the future Meghna
will delight us with many more creations,
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After launching a
successful trend
jewelry line in 2011,
the pieces were an
instant hit and have
graced by many
publications and have
also been worn by Blake
Lively and Kelly
Rutherford
in“GOSSIP GIRL”.
Jewellery Historian 037
PhotocourtesyofMEGHNAJEWELS
©MEGHNAJEWELS
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©MEGHNAJEWELS
Jewellery Historian038
> "As a child, I loved to draw. Drawing was
always something that came naturally to
me. Like many young women, I became
fascinated with the world of fashion. I would
watch runway shows, and be particularly
moved by the accessories that
complimented each designer's piece. It
wasn't long before my love of art and fashion
merged and I began to draw jewelry. I
envisioned these pieces hanging off the
hand of women like me who loved color and
haute couture.
I begin simply, with a blank piece of paper
and an idea. That idea can occur to me
anywhere, often, in the most unlikely places,
but soon enough I complete a sketch and
that marks the birth of that particular piece.
My favorite part of the design process is
being able to witness the life of each piece.
Looking back at when I finally began to work
on my pieces, I realize now what came out in
some ways is representative of the places
I've lived and traveled to. My pieces are not
demure; they're adventurous. What I hope to
convey with every bracelet or ring is a warm
invitation to go where I have been and see
what I have witnessed around the globe. I
am grateful to all of the many fans, to the
cities which have inspired me, and the family
that helped propel me, and I wish just as
many blessings to each of you.
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©MEGHNAJEWELS
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“What I hope to
convey with every
bracelet or ring,”
says Patel, “is a
warm invitation to
go where I have been
and see what I have
witnessed around
the globe.”
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©MEGHNAJEWELS
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Jewellery Historian042
Overall, Patel’s process is
simple and organic.
Receiving constant
inspiration for her designs
through anything she falls in
with at first sight, her pieces
embody all the little elements
that come into her life from
the places she has lived and
traveled.
Jewellery Historian 043
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©MEGHNAJEWELS
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Jewellery Historian046
C H I M E N T O
Hand-made beauty, versatility, and reversibility
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Since 1964 the CHIMENTO family has been associated with
unique and exclusive creations using gold as the undisputed
protagonist. Showcasing a unique mix of creativity,
craftsmanship and attention to detail, CHIMENTO’s creations
have become synonym with top quality 18k gold Italian
Jewelry.All CHIMENTO collections are a perfect blend of
tradition and design, setting the new classic benchmarks of
Italian jewelry with their elegant, refined and contemporary style.
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Chimento is the story of an all-Italian family,
gifted with initiative and will power, which
first started in 1964 in Grisignano di Zocco, a
province of Vicenza and the seat of Italy's
goldsmith tradition.
2500 years ago, the Etruscans, in what is
present-day Tuscany, created among the
most beautiful gold metalwork of the
ancient world. Today, Italy remains a leader
in the transformation of that precious metal
into masterpieces of design and
craftsmanship.
It was in the great tradition of the masters of
Italian goldsmiths that Adriano Chimento
established a design and production studio
for fine designer 18K gold and diamond
jewelry in 1964 in Vicenza, Italy.
The Company was founded on the intuition
and imagination of Adriano Chimento, the
Company's founder and President, and
today is run by the next generation of the
family of jewelers, who is dedicated to
original creativity and the guiding principles
of the brand. Chimento is one of the most
important brands in the world of jewelry.
Since 1964 the CHIMENTO family has been
associated with unique and exclusive
creations using gold as the undisputed
protagonist. Showcasing a unique mix of
creativity, craftsmanship and attention to
detail, CHIMENTO’s creations have become
synonym with top quality 18k gold Italian
Jewelry.All CHIMENTO collections are a
perfect blend of tradition and design, setting
the new classic benchmarks of Italian
jewelry with their elegant, refined and
C H I M E N T O
Hand-made beauty, versatility, and reversibility
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>Chimento has since grown into a successful
jewelry manufacturer with a global
presence in Europe, Asia, and the Americas.
Today Chimento S.P.A. has a 70,000 square
foot design and production studio in
Vicenza, a small town in Italy known as the
gold capital of the world. Master goldsmiths
and jewelers combine old-world
handcrafting with state-of-the-art processes
like electroforming and microfusion to
produce a collection unique in style and
finish.
The production studio has over 140 skilled
employees, some of which manually create
each piece of jewelry by hand. Chimento
jewelry provides the customer with beauty,
security, versatility, and reversibility.
Chimento jewels are dedicated to women
who love contemporary design and classic
style and want to experience the thrill of
wearing a precious jewel every day. Looking
into the hearts of women, capturing their
desires; every CHIMENTO piece is born for
this. Original shapes, innovative materials,
design evolution and research. And a lot of
passion. Chimento successfully creates
innovative and unique pieces that become
fashion musts.
Chimento's collections offer a complete
assortment of gold jewelry. The taste and
original interpretation of trends is best
expressed in the DESIGN collection for
women and the TRENDY collection for men,
while the classicism and elegance that has
made Chimento famous is evident in the
TRADITION and CLASSIC collections. HD
Silver represents an innovative approach
whereby Chimento has brought their
particular and inimitable style to the world of
silver. From now on, at Chimento, not only
gold will set the trends.
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Jewellery Historian072
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©GUMUCHIAN
On any given day, if you walk into the
Gumuchian office in Manhattan, you will
see several women buzzing around, all with
one goal in mind: to bring our clients the most
exquisite, timeless and perfectly executed
jewelry they have ever seen or worn. Our
founder and visionary, Anita Gumuchian
and her daughters Myriam and Patricia carry
on a family legacy in the jewelry industry that
dates back over 100 years. Together, the
Gumuchian women combine the
excellence of traditional European
craftsmanship with fashion-forward designs.
From this vision our “Designed by Women for
Women” mantra emerged, setting out to
embody the confidence and beauty of all
women.
During your visit you will find Anita perched at
her desk sifting through piles of the finest
quality diamonds and gemstones to be set
into precious metals to adorn our clientele.
Amid this mix of diamonds and gems, you
can see the sketches and designs that will
soon be transformed from vision into
wearable jewelry. One door down from
Anita you will find Patricia developing ideas
and sketching; she draws her inspiration from
her travels and natural surroundings. Patricia
adds sophistication and elegance to every
piece, ensuring that the design will not only
satisfy the tastes of our most discerning
customers, but also serve as a cherished
heirloom for future generations. Just down
the hall, Myriam will be in her office, dressed
to kill and dripping in Gumuchian jewelry.
Myriam’s contagious and vivacious energy,
passion and hard work is impossible not to
notice the moment you lay eyes on her. As
the Vice President of Sales and Marketing,
Myriam serves as the voice for Gumuchian’s
jewelry and her experience in the industry
and knowledge of customer needs makes
her perfectly suited to bridge the gap
between designer and consumer. >
Gumuchian
A c o l l e c t i o n f o r b e e s
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>The Gumuchian trio spends their days
developing new designs with innovation
and an enthusiasm that radiates throughout
the office and onto the jewelers’ benches.
Each design is brought to life by master
jewelers in Gumuchian’s Manhattan atelier,
never using anything below platinum or 18k
yellow, white and pink gold. This office is
where the team of women comes together
as one, treating each design as a tiny
sculpture, ensuring each piece is built to
wear with comfort while lasting a lifetime.
This is what it means to be “Designed by
Women for Women”.
The Gumuchian family has been in the
diamond and jewelry industry for more than
100 years. In 1979 Gumuchian was created in
New York by Anita and her daughters,
Myriam and Patricia. Inspired by their
European lineage the trio saw the need to
create a refined collection in order to better
serve the American market. From that vision,
Gumuchian’s “Designed by Women for
Women” mantra was born, setting out to
capture the confidence and beauty of all
women. Together the trio has created
jewelry recognized for its creativity,
innovation and unequaled craftsmanship.
Each design is brought to life and perfectly
executed by highly-skilled Master jewelers in
their atelier in New York City.
Gumuchian’s commitment to excellence
does not go unnoticed as they have been
the recipient of many jewelry design awards
including: Excellence in Design from WJA
(Women’s Jewelry Association) in 1995.
North America Couture Show for best design
with pearls & the Latin American Couture
Show for best design in colored gemstones
both in 1998. Couture Design Awards in 2002
for best in bridal. In 2004 Gumuchian was the
winner of the DPS & JCK for their diamond
right hand ring. Myriam Gumuchian
became the first woman appointed chair of
the JIC (Jewelry Information Center) in 2006
and held the position for two years.
In 2008 Gumuchian was the winner of the
Jeweler’s Choice award. In 2008 Myriam was
elected membership into the elite 24 Karat
Club. Myriam received the Dedication &
Leadership award from New York Jeweler’s
Group in 2012 (Myriam was the president
from 2010-2012). Winner of the Centurion
2012 Platinum design award for their three-
way diamond Gallop necklace. Most
recently Gumuchian was the receiver of the
Centurion 2013 Platinum design award for
their Bowlero necklace as well as the AJA,
Armenian Jewelry Association Award for
Best International Emerging Brand of the
year.>
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> The luxury brand Gumuchian introduced a
new apis-inspired collection at the JCK show
on May 30th in support of the declining
honeybee population that is affecting plant
life and food supply worldwide. This
collection we selected at the Jewellery
Historian to showcase.
We definitely loved this nature inspired
collection but we really loved that a portion
of the proceeds from the sale of the
collection – which is simply named “B” – will
be donated to the non-profit,
HoneyLove.org, which supports urban
beekeeping and home gardens. According
to recent studies, including those by the U.S.
Department of Agriculture, one in every
three bites of food consumed in the United
States is either directly or indirectly
pollinated by bees.
“I have never been afraid of bees. I think
they’re wonderful” said Patricia
Gumuchian, who was inspired to design the
collection after reading numerous articles
about the effects that a declining honeybee
population would have on the environment.
“I look around our office of women and think
about the worker bees – who are the female
bees – and how valuable they are to our
livelihood. Our family gatherings and
holidays largely center on all types of foods.
What would happen if these things just went
away? The effects could be detrimental. We
need to change what’s going on.”
The suite itself is offered in 18K gold and
includes both link and cuff bracelets,
earrings, pendants, rings, and five different
bee- related charms. “Many of our
collections are inspired by nature” said Vice
President of Sales, Myriam Gumuchian, “but
this aspect of nature didn’t just inspire the
designs, it also inspired us to be part of
something bigger. A productive hive
consists of successful teamwork, which we
demonstrate daily in our New York office. The
‘B’ collection represents our appreciation of
these remarkable creatures and our goal is to
bring awareness to this growing problem. If
honeybees continue to decline at the rate
they are, we are all in big trouble.”
For more information about urban
beekeeping, visit www.honeylove.org
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Jewellery Historian
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MOUSSON ATELIER
Jewellery Historian088
Beauty, setted in precious metals and stones
Creativity is a motion, a search, it's always a little
rebellion. At Mousson Atelier, they have abandoned the
beaten path and stereotypes, and became innovators in
what they do. Creativity has become an integral part of
them, making them a contemporary brand of Haute
Joaillerie.
cover story
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Each bright personality is beautiful in
its uniqueness. We appreciate those
who can bravely make a statement
and does not hesitate to reveal his or
her identity every second. Mousson
Atelierjewelleryisunique,originaland
attractive - worthy setting for the
extraordinary person.
Mousson Atelier was founded in 2008
in St. Petersburg, Russia. Atelier was
born as a result of an alliance of
professionals with over 20 years
experience in creating jewelry and
collecting unique gemstones.
Today Mousson Atelier keeps the
family tradition of innovation and
creates jewelry in a modern & classic
style. Innovation in design and
manufacturing quality are the key
principles of the company. We pay
great importance to creating
jewellery that is valuable ultimately in
its beauty. Creativity is a motion, a
search, it's always a little rebellion. For
this reason at Mousson Atelier they
have abandoned the beaten path
and stereotypes, and became
innovators in what they do. Creativity
has become an integral part of them,
and it allows them to give rise to more
and more new images!
A flash of inspiration allows them to
leave the narrow frames of the
ordinary life. They are able to find
something beautiful in everything -
and show it to others. Their creations
are a synonym of beauty, setted in
precious metals and stones.
They select the highest quality
materials:18 K gold of different colors,
precious stones of various shapes,
colors, sizes and cuts. Together these
componentsturnintoawidevarietyof
unique creatures. The flawless
creationofthejewelleryistheproduct
of advanced technologies of jewelry
industry & high-grade hand work.
At the Jewellery Historian we are
honored to showcase their unique
creations.
M O U S S O N A T E L I E R
Beauty, setted in precious metals and stones
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Life is limitless and
always unexpected.
This is fully reflected
in the Mousson Atelier
collections - a hymn to
nature and life.
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A flash of inspiration allows
Mousson Atelier to leave the
narrow frames of the ordinary
life. They are able to find
something beautiful in
everything – and show it to
others. Their creations are
beauty, set in precious metals
and stones.
Jewellery Historian096
Images of Mousson
Atelier’s creations
are born by nature –
and therefore by life
itself.
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Mousson Atelier is
definitely able to find
something beautiful in
everything - and show it
to others with a creation
of perfection.
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Perfection reflects in the
aesthetic sense of the
creations by Mousson.
Such a notable work, and
marvelous collections,
that you desire them all.
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Real wonders happen
in the Mousson atelier
workshop! Wonders
that you will not be able
to resist !
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Mousson Atelier
collections live and
constantly update. They
feature exclusive
jewellery pieces &
stylish elegant
products that are
available to a wide
audience with respect to
each bright personality
& its uniqueness.
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At Mousson Atelier,
collections are the expert
craftsmanship of the past and
high-tech processes that look
to the future.
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The flawless creation of the
jewellery is the product of
advanced technologies of
jewellery industry, the best
traditional techniques & high-
grade hand work.
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Each piece in theMousson
Atelier's Haute Joaillerie
collection is a unique work of
jewellery art, that you will not find
anywhere in the world! These
pieces not only have high design
value but also an investment
appeal.
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Mousson Atelier's
jewellery is definitely
created combining
passion to the unique
savoir-faire of high end
jewellery.
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At Mousson Atelier, you can find
the colors of every season in their
unique jewelry pieces! Select the set
of your favorite color combination
but remember - the seasons change
and jewelry stays forever.
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Mousson Atelier's
jewellery is valuable
ultimately in its beauty.
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Mousson Atelier
jewellery is unique,
original and
attractive - worthy
setting for the
extraordinary
person.
Jewellery Historian120
Mousson Atelier keeps
the family tradition of
innovation and creates
jewelry in a modern &
classic style, ultimately
in its beauty.
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Mousson Atelier – is a
unique jewelry design
brand, producing
jewelry of creative
design and high
quality, as only few
brands worldwide do.
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Mousson Atelier is
passionate about creating
stunning jewellery for their
clientele; they consider
themselves your partner.
they consider a client’s
success is their best reward.
Jewellery Historian 125
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PhotocourtesyofADLERJOAILLIERS©ADLERJOAILLIERS
The fruit of artisanal expertise
With a flair for fusing East with West and a passion for
running a truly independent family business, the House of
Adler has long been at the centre of the jewellery world.
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As the proverb rightly says, one swallow does not
make a summer. Yet, is it not flowers that
mesmerise and herald the arrival of warm
weather? Flora, the Roman goddess of spring
and vegetation, is one of the most important
Roman deities. Every year, a great festival was
held in her honour across the Empire to
encourage a bountiful harvest.
Inspired by these Floralia festivals, Adler’s new
collection breathes life into delicate, twinkling
buds. Each one blooms forth, revealing its
colourful attire and unique beauty with each
passing day. The magic emanating from these
precious bouquets can be perceived in the
details: sapphire, ruby, and yellow and white
diamond petals shine clear and bright, adorning
several sets of jewellery. The necklaces, earrings
and rings are perceptively set; composed of a
dozenstones,theseblossomingjewelscanreach
up to thirty carats, with cuts that vary between
round, pear and oval.
The fruit of artisanal expertise, these 18kt white-
gold creations set with exceptional gemstones
blossom at a woman’s touch and give rise to
spring on Earth.
T h e f r u i t o f a r t i s a n a l e x p e r t i s e
Jewellery Historian 131
PhotocourtesyofADLERJOAILLIERS©ADLERJOAILLIERS
Jewellery Historian132
PhotocourtesyofADLERJOAILLIERS©ADLERJOAILLIERS
Jewellery Historian 133
PhotocourtesyofADLERJOAILLIERS©ADLERJOAILLIERS
Jewellery Historian134
PhotocourtesyofADLERJOAILLIERS©ADLERJOAILLIERS
Jewellery Historian 135
PhotocourtesyofADLERJOAILLIERS©ADLERJOAILLIERS
Jewellery Historian136
PhotocourtesyofADLERJOAILLIERS©ADLERJOAILLIERS
Jewellery Historian 137
PhotocourtesyofADLERJOAILLIERS©ADLERJOAILLIERS
Jewellery Historian138
Gold pin with amethyst
by Jean Baptiste Bonnard,
c. 1824 - c. 1829
J.G. de Groot Jamin Bequest, Amsterdam
Photo courtesy of Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam
Dionysus was the god of wine and fertility in
ancient Greece, and just like the wine he
represented, he had a dual nature. On one
side he would bring joy and divine ecstasy
and on the other side he would be brutal with
a violent rage. One of those “angry” days
when he was enraged with the mortals, he
swore that he would release his tigers
against the first human he would encounter.
This is when he met Amethystos, a young and
beautiful maiden, on her way to Diana’s
temple. When the goddess saw the fierce
animals running towards the girl, she
instantly transformed her into a statue of
colorless quartz in order to protect her.
Dionysus awoke from the fierce rage he has
fallen into, realized what he has done, and
ashamed of his action he wept tears of wine
over the statue. His tears stained the quartz
and gave it a purple colour, creating the
gemstone Amethyst.
Ancient civilizations praised amethysts,
sometimes even more than other expensive
gemstones. Romans and Greeks would drink
wine from amethyst-laden cups as they
thought that the gems would protect them
from getting drunk and intoxicated.
Actually, the term amethyst means not-
drunk, sober. It was said that St. Valentine
wore a ring that featured an amethyst with a
carved cupid in it, while we meet amethysts
in many religious jewelry, still today, as
purple is thought to be the colour of Jesus
Christ. Biblical references mention that
amethyst is one of the twelve gems found in
Aaron’s breastplate and that the twelfth
foundation of the Holy City was built on
amethyst. Amethysts are also protagonists in
many royal regalia, like the beautiful
amethyst tiara of Queen Mary of England
and the Napoleonic amethyst parure of
Queen Josephine of Leuchtenberg. >
Amethyst
Jewellery Historian 139
The unique breathtaking beauty of gems
by Eva Kountouraki
Jewellery Historian140
> All these legends, symbols and history have given amethyst a precious and
unique character that still keeps it popular among the consumers. However,
in today’s markets, amethyst is no longer a very expensive gemstone as many
sources have been discovered and exploited, that made the gem more
plentiful and more affordable. Still, high quality amethysts that exhibit a strong
warm purple colour with reddish tints are rare and would sell for premium
prices.
Amethyst is the most famous variety of the gemstone species quartz, a large
family of well-known and widely used gems that includes, among others, the
yellow to orange-red citrine, the colorless rock crystal, the light green
praseolite, the pink rose quartz, and the brown smoky quartz.
Quartz is one of the most important minerals in the earth. It is found in many
types of rock and in varying environments. If we keep the same basic
chemistry but change the crystal class and formation we find aggregate
quartz types such as chalcedony that comes in many different varieties, like
agate, onyx, chrysoprase and carnelian, just to name a few.>
PhotocourtesyofNICOLELANDAW
©NICOLELANDAW
These amazing amethyst earrings by Nicole Landaw,
have been previously shown in our issue 7
Jewellery Historian 141
PhotocourtesyofCROW'SNEST
©CROW'SNEST
Amethyst is the most famous variety of the gemstone
species quartz, a large family of well-known and
widely used gems that includes, among others, the
yellowtoorange-redcitrine,thecolorlessrockcrystal,
thelightgreenpraseolite,thepinkrosequartz,andthe
brown smoky quartz.
A gorgeous amethyst
ring by Crow's Nest,
previously shown in
our issue 3.
Jewellery Historian142
“Ancient civilizations praised amethysts,
sometimes even more than other expensive
gemstones. Romans and Greeks would drink
wine from amethyst-laden cups as they
thought that the gems would protect them from
getting drunk and intoxicated. Actually, the
term amethyst means not-drunk, sober.”
This amazing Kara Ross cuff bracelet,
has been previously shown in our issue 3
Jewellery Historian 143
PhotocourtesyofKARAROSS
©KARAROSS
> Amethyst, like all quartz, is a durable gemstone with good hardness and
toughness, properties that make it suitable for everyday use in all types of
jewelry. It can be carved in unique shapes and polished in all cutting styles. It is
one of the most versatile gemstones in the market today as it can be included
in all jewels, from very high-end to more affordable. Its long and valued history
and important symbolism make an unusual couple with the fact that it is
readily available, which makes this gemstone attractive to everyone.
Amethyst’s colour range is very narrow; in fact, quartz must be purple in order
to be called amethyst. To this we can only add secondary tints that create
reddish purple or violetish purple colours, while its tone can vary from very light
to very dark, with the medium tone being the most desirable, as the rich purple
hue look its best when neither too dark, nor too light.
Dionysus who was the only God to have one mortal parent. This fact has
always made humans feel a special connection with him, with his passions,
anger, and very “mortal” feelings. All these subconscious sensations are
conveyed from antiquity to today in amethyst. In fact, amethyst is one of
those gemstones deeply connected with humans for millennia. Although its
availability may give the impression of a less valuable gem, its beauty and
long history is here to remind us that there is no such thing as an inferior or a semi-
precious gemstone. In fact, there is, and never has been, anything “semi” in
the power that amethysts exert on humans..
Jewellery Historian144
PhotocourtesyofFARAHKHANFINEJEWELLERY
©FARAHKHANFINEJEWELLERY
These unique earrings created
by Farah Khan Fine Jewellery,
feature gorgeous amethysts as
center stone accented with
diamonds and rubies. Unique
creations of Farah Khan fine
jewellery have been featured
previously on our issue 4.
Eva Kountouraki was born and raised
in a family of goldsmiths and jewelers.
Succeeding unprecedented results in
the practice and theory of gemology,
analyzing and identifying thousands
of gemstones and diamonds, she
graduated and acquired the
prestigious certificate GIA Graduate
Gemologist Diploma, which includes
specific studies in diamond grading
(GIA Graduate Diamonds Diploma)
and colored gemstones (GIA
Graduate Colored Stones Diploma).
Her studies in the jewelry field
continued and Eva got her Jewelry
Business Management Diploma,
gainingspecializedknowledgeabout
all the aspects of the jewelry industry.
Her training continued with jewelry
design and computer aided design.
Eva’s brilliant path in the field of
gemology was crowned by her
collaborationwiththeItalianbranchof
GIA. Eva received special training
from professional and experienced
gemologist of GIA Italy, New York and
California US, and for more than a
decade she teaches gemology and
jewelry design in GIA, transferring her
experience, knowledge and passion
for diamonds, gems and jewelry to her
students -famous professionals from
around world.
AttheJewelleryHistorianweareproud
to have in our team Eva Kountouraki
andhermonthlycolumnineveryissue.
Every month, discover a new
gemstone and the unique
breathtaking beauty of gems.
Eva Kountouraki
“Amethyst’s colour
range is very narrow; in
fact, quartz must be
purple in order to be
called amethyst. To this
we can only add
secondary tints that
create reddish purple or
violetish purple colours,
while its tone can vary
from very light to very
dark, with the medium
tone being the most
desirable, as the rich
purple hue look its best
when neither too dark,
nor too light.”
Jewellery Historian 145
PhotocourtesyofFARAHKHANFINEJEWELLERY
©FARAHKHANFINEJEWELLERY
Jewellery Historian146
Our Faves
In every issue, we handpick the finest jewellery
for you to choose , enabling you to add a
sophisticated, elegant touch to the most
important times of your life. In this issue we
invite you in our "Jardin Secret".
Jewellery Historian 147
Jewellery Historian148
Our Faves
SYLVIE CORBELIN
ANA DE CCOSTA
LYDIA COURTEILLE
Jewellery Historian 149
GUMUSHIAN
JEWELLERY THEATRE
CARRERA Y CARRERA
Jewellery Historian150
Our Faves
SYLVIE CORBELIN
DANIELA VILLEGAS
Jewellery Historian 151
LYDIA COURTEILLE
ADLER JOAILLIERS
LE VIAN
Jewellery Historian152
Our Faves
L'DEZEN
SHAWISH
THEODOROS
Jewellery Historian 153
SYLVIE CORBELIN
CARRERA Y CARRERA
CROW'S NEST
Jewellery Historian154
Our Faves
FARAH KHAN
FINE JEWELLERY
KATHERINE JETTER
Jewellery Historian 155
MORPHÉE
JOAILLERIE
NICOLE LANDAW
FABERGÉ
Our Faves
Jewellery Historian156
LYDIA COURTEILLE
JEWELLERY THEATRE
Jewellery Historian 157
FANOURAKIS
CROW'S NEST
CARRERA Y CARRERA
Our Faves
Jewellery Historian158
GUMUSHIAN
LYDIA COURTEILLE
Jewellery Historian 159
SYLVIE CORBELIN
PASQUALE BRUNI
LE VIAN
CARRERA Y CARRERA
address book
ADLER
www.adler-joailliers.com
AVAKIAN
www.avakian.com
ANA DE COSTA
www.anadecosta.com
CARRERA Y CARRERA
www.carreraycarrera.com
CHIMENTO
www.chimento.it
CROW'S NEST
www.crowsnestjewels.com
DANIELA VILLEGAS
www.danielavillegas.com
FABERGÉ
www.faberge.com
FANOURAKIS
www.fanourakis.gr
FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY
www.farahkhanfinejewellery.com
GUMUCHIAN
www.gumuchian.com
JEWELLERY THEATRE
www.jewellerytheatre.com
KATHERINE JETTER
www.katherinejetter.com
L'DEZEN
www.ldezen.com
LE VIAN
www.levian.com
LYDIA COURTEILLE
www.lydiacourteille.com
MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE
www.morphee-joaillerie.com
MEGHNA JEWELS
www.meghnajewels.com
MOUSSON ATELIER
www.moussonatelier.ru
NICOLE LANDAW
www.nicolelandaw.com
OMI PRIVÉ
www.omiprive.com
ORLOV JEWELRY
www.orlovjewelry.com
PASQUALE BRUNI
www.pasqualebruni.com
SYLVIE CORBELLIN
www.sylvie-corbelin.com/sc/
SHAWISH
www.shawish.ch
THEODOROS
www.theodoros.com.gr
ZOLOTAS
www.zolotas.gr
brands featured in this issue
Jewellery Historian160
Jewellery Historian 161
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Jewellery Historian-issue-08

  • 1. #08 ISSUE 08 / YEAR 01 Jewellery Historian
  • 2.
  • 3.
  • 5. news portraits 14 Basel World 2015 Elegance & Brilliance 16 Pasquale Bruni at Basel World 2015 18 Fabergé An objet d'art masterpiece Omi Privé Grand prize 0f 2015 JCK Jewelers’ Choice 22 Sotheby's appoints David Bennett Jewelry Chairman Meghna Patel Adventurous, luxurius & wearable 46 Chimento Hand-made beauty & versality Gumuchian a collction for bees 20 32 72 musts Editor's Letter Passion for creativity 10 Issue Globe The designers at a glance 09 Mousson Atelier beauty setted in precious metals88 inspiration Adler introduces Flora, the fruit of artisanal expertise 138 Amethyst The breathtaking beauty of gems Our Faves we introduce you to our Secret Garden 128 146 March 2015 Jewellery Historian 005 Zolotas introduces the Love letter collection 28 Avakian at the Doha jewelry & watches exhibition 26
  • 6.
  • 7.
  • 8. Jewellery Historian ISSUE 08, YEAR 01 MARCH 2015 Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier Founder & Editor-in-chief *** CONTRIBUTORS Eva Kountouraki Martin Huynh Christina Rodopoulou *** LAY-OUT & DESIGN Jewellery Historian *** www.jewelleryhistorian.com info@jewelleryhistorian.com *** For a free subscription visit www.jewelleryhistorian.com *** PUBLISHED & DISTRIBUTED IN PARTNERSHIP WITH H O M O E V O L U T I O N Chomatianou 26, 10439 Athens, Greece *** FREE COPY / NOT FOR SALE JEWELLERY HISTORIAN © 2015 All material published in this e-magazine and at www.jewelleryhistorian.com is published with permission of the brands and designers. Unless otherwise authorized in writing by the Jewellery Historian, it is strictly prohibited to reproduce, in whole or in part, and by any way, the content of this e-magazine. While precautions have been take to ensure the accuracy of the contents of our magazine and digital brands, neither the editors, publishers or its agents can accept responsibility for damages or injury which may arise there from. The information on this e-magazine is for information purposes only. Jewellery Historian assumes no liability or responsibility for any inaccurate, delayed or incomplete information. The information contained has been provided by individual brands, event organizers, brands or organizations without verification by us. The opinions expressed in articles are the author's own and do not reflect the view of the Jewellery Historian, the editor-in-chief and team of the magazine, or of any part related to the magazine. Partial or entire reproduction of the material of this site is strictly prohibited.The content, entire edition, graphics, design, and other matters related to this issue are protected under applicable copyrights and other proprietary laws, including but not limited to intellectual property laws. The copying, reproduction, use, modification or publication by you of any such matters or any part of the material is strictly prohibited, without our express prior written permission.All trade names, trademarks or distinctive signs of any kind contained in the Web pages of the company are the property of their owners and are protected by law. The same is valid also for all Links (links) .The presence of links (links) in the Jewellery Historian Web pages is for informational purposes only. Our articles may contain photos/texts/graphics/designs that belong to third parties. They are published for information purposes only and with permission of the brands. The Jewellery Historian is publishing articles about jewellery, auctions, jewellery designers, gemology, gemstones, etc. All trademarks mentioned in the Jewellery Historian’s website and/or e-magazine belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation & information and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. Photos used in articles belong to their owners, third party brands, product names, trade names, corporate names and company names mentioned may be trademarks of their respective owners or registered trademarks of other companies and are used for purposes of explanation and to the owner's benefit, without implying a violation of copyright law. Jewellery Historian008
  • 9. Founder & Editor-in-Chief Lucas Samaltanos-Ferrier editor's letter Thisissueisdefinitelyaspringissue.Itislikeagarden,featuringuniqueandtalenteddesignersfromallovertheworld,likeeach one of our issues. Since our first issue our main mission is to promote, inspire and educate and for this reason we look for designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality in all aspects. We are grateful to all brands and designers that decided to share their creativity and vision with us all, since many refused our invitation. With as a main goal to provide the highest-quality content for free on the internet, while keeping access to our e-magazine free to all users worldwide, we believe in free education of every person. Education is the key to building better lives for hundredsofmillionsworldwide.Foruseducationisafundamentalrightthatrequiresfreedeliveryandfreeaccesstomaterial of high quality. But education is definitely the centre of huge economic interests. We believe in free education and we also believe that brands should support, financially and morally, initiatives that want to offer free access and information in order to promote designers & brands and educate readers for free. They should support "open source" initiatives instead of trying only to sell something. To the ones that support us morally we are thankful. One of our goals is to offer free knowledge, by offering free material to people interested in creativity, interested in discovering the amazing universe, the expertise and vision of famous international maisons. We believe and work with the goalofraisingtheawarenessofjewellery&watchdesignasaformofcreativeexpression.TheJewelleryHistorianisoneofthe few free e-magazines worldwide, related to jewellery & timepieces, to offer for free such a quality of editorial line and photographytoitsreaders.Allthisismadewithnofinancialsupportfromanyoneanditwillcontinuetobemadeforaslongas we will be able to do it. Passion Jewellery Historian 009
  • 10. Jewellery Historian010 issue globe Meghna PATEL Meghna Jewels is the fine jewelry line by designer Meghna Patel. After launching a successful trend jewelry line in 2011, Patel transitioned into fine jewelry 2014. Inspired by her Indian heritage, Patel uses bold precious stones, layering her designs with her signature diamond pave arches. Overall, Patel’s process is simple and organic. Receiving constant inspiration for her designs through anything she falls in with at first sight, her pieces embody all the little elements that come into her life from the places she has lived and traveled. GUMUCHIAN Gumuchian is a gem of a jewelry collection that’s treasured by the cognoscenti who can spot true European craftsmanship and superior design a mile away. Owned and operated with meticulous attention to quality by Anita Gumuchian and daughters Myriam and Patricia, this boutique company is proud to do it all, from the selection of brilliant diamonds through their family-run offices in Antwerp, to the actual manufacturing in the heart of New York. In every issue we introduce to you, jewellery designers, brands and artists whose work is exceptional and of the highest quality in all aspects. Meet the artists & columnists featured in this issue.
  • 11. Jewellery Historian 011 CHIMENTO Since 1964 the CHIMENTO family has been associated with unique and exclusive creations using gold as the undisputed protagonist. Showcasing a unique mix of creativity, craftsmanship and attention to detail, CHIMENTO’s creations have become synonym with top quality 18k gold Italian Jewelry.All CHIMENTO collections are a perfect blend of tradition and design, setting the new classic benchmarks of Italian jewelry with their elegant, refined and contemporary style. Eva KOUNTOURAKI Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of goldsmiths and jewelers. Eva’s brilliant path in the field of gemology was crowned by her collaboration with the Italian branch of GIA, the world famous Gemological Institute of America. Eva received special training from professional and experienced gemologist of GIA Italy, New York and California US, and for more than a decade she teaches gemology and jewelry design in GIA, transferring her experience, knowledge and passion for diamonds, gems and jewelry to her students -famous professionals from around world. At the Jewellery Historian we are proud to have in our team Eva Kountouraki and her monthly column in every issue. Every month, discover a new gemstone and the "Unique breathtaking beauty of gems". In this issue discover and learn about the amethyst. MOUSSON ATELIER Mousson Atelier was founded in 2008 in St. Petersburg, Russia. Atelier was born as a result of an alliance of professionals with over 20 years experience in creating jewelry and collecting unique gemstones. Today Mousson Atelier keeps the family tradition of innovation and creates jewelry in a modern & classic style. Innovation in design and manufacturing quality are the key principles of the company. They pay great importance to creating jewellery that is valuable ultimately in its beauty.
  • 12. Jewellery Historian012 news Boutique openings, coffee table books, auctions, exhibitions & events. Everything new jewellery lovers must know, is here.
  • 15. Brilliance & Elegance Baselworld 2015 Baselworld, the most highly acclaimed show in the world of timepieces and jewellery is also the venue where all the key global players of the diamonds, pearls and gemstones industry unite under one roof to display their most spectacular items. AttheupcomingBaselworld2015,from March 19 to March 26, 2015, the crème de la crème of diamonds, gemstones and pearls will be showcased for the world's top jewellers, designers and manufacturers to discover. Baselworldhasbecomethelifebloodof the watch and jewellery industry, and dominates the annual schedule of luxury brands. The worldwide impact of the show is tremendous and brands presenting their products at Baselworld, are sure that the most important buyers from all over the world will be there to see them. Baselworld is poised once again to capture the hearts and minds of everyone interested in the global watch and jewellery industry. With around 1,500 prestigious brands representing every sector expected to participate, Baselworld 2015 will bring together all the key players from watchmakers to jewellers, from diamond,pearlandgemstonedealers through to machinery manufacturers and other suppliers. Itisthesinglemostimportanteventthat helps companies strengthen their business and establish new partnerships, sign important contracts or diversify their supply chain. The 2014 edition attracted more than 1,500 exhibitors from 40 countries, 150,000 visitors from 100 countries and 4,000 journalists from 70 countries. The big diversity attendees coming from all five continents is what makes the exhibition tick. More importantly the world`s most renowned brands showcase their collections exclusively at Baselworld and do not attend any other exhibitions, further adding value to visiting professionals and company representatives. Baselworld 2015 March 19 to March 26, 2015 Messe Basel, Switzerland Opening times: Daily from 9 am to 6 pm (except Thursday, March 26: 9 am to 4 pm) Jewellery Historian 015 PhotocourtesyofBaselworldPhotocourtesyofBaselworldPhotocourtesyofBaselworld PhotocourtesyofBaselworld
  • 17. Baselworld 2015 Pasquale Bruni presents the new creation of the iconic collection Prato Fiorito, a unique set that seduce by the refinement of its craftsmanship and the gems of rare beauty. A creation capable of combining the excellence of Italian manufacturing with an unmistakable contemporary style. The fine jewellery by Pasquale Bruni is masterfully expressed in the exquisite Fiori in Fiore necklace. Pink sapphires magically blend into the luminosity of diamonds set in white gold. A pavé flower and a drop of multifaceted morganite are the heart of this exquisite necklace. Each tiny flower that makes it up is attached to its neighbour by gold wire. The result is like a magnificent piece of embroidery which allows glimpses of the skin and designs petalstodressupthedécolleté.Itisa piece of jewellery which depending on what it is worn with adapts to the feminine mood desired. The collier is composed of 3421 diamonds for a total of 31,51carats, one 4,46 carats morganite and 258 pink sapphires for a total of 10,54 carats. The set is completed by chandelier earrings in white gold, diamonds and pink sapphires. The new creation will be unveiled at the prestigious Baselworld 2015, which takes place from March 19 to March 26, 2015, Messe Basel, Switzerland. Jewellery Historian 017 PhotocourtesyofPASQUALEBRUNI©PASQUALEBRUNI
  • 19. An objet d'art Masterpiece FABERGÉ PEARL EGG Fabergé, the world’s most iconic artist jeweller, today revives its revered tradition of creating the most precious and coveted of objets d’art. Paying homage to the forthcoming centenary of the last Fabergé Imperial Eggs ever delivered, Fabergé has crafted an extraordinary, one-of-kind egg objet in collaboration with the Al-Fardan family, one of the world’s most renowned collectors of pearls. The Fabergé Pearl Egg is the first egg created in the ‘Imperial Class’ since 1917 where the Fabergé name and the Fabergé family have been united. Pearls have been coveted and treasured for millennia, linked inextricably with royalty, style and status. Fabergé is delighted to celebrate these "jewels of the sea" in the exquisite Fabergé Pearl Egg. The Fabergé Pearl Egg draws inspiration from the formation of a pearl within an oyster, and the egg’s painstakingly- crafted mother-of-pearl exterior opens to reveal a unique grey pearl of 12.17 carats, sourced from the Arabian Gulf and exhibiting exceptional purity and a highly unusual shade of grey. Harnessing 20 highly skilled workmasters, the objet embodies 139 fine, white pearls with a golden lustre, 3,305 diamonds, carved rock crystal and mother-of-pearl set on white and yellow gold. Each pearl adorning the Fabergé Pearl Egg was hand-selected by Hussain Ibrahim Al- Fardan from his private collection. An ingenious mechanism enables the entire outer shell to rotate on its base, simultaneously opening in six sections to unveil its treasure. The Pearl Egg is accompanied by a sumptuous Fabergé necklace of white pearls, diamonds and mother of pearl featuring a scallop motif, and finished with an exquisite 19.44 carat white pearl drop. Hussain Ibrahim Al-Fardan, Chairman of the Alfardan Group, commented: “I have a passion for natural pearls and it took me many years to build my current collection gathering some of the most extraordinary pearls in the world. Fabergé has a great history in making jewellery for royalty and a truly precious Fabergé Egg is a luxury treasure and the symbol of a long-gone era of opulence. This is why I partnered with Fabergé to combine these two traditional treasures: the Fabergé Egg and natural Arabian Gulf pearls, to create an exceptional piece.” Robert Benvenuto, Fabergé President, said: “We are delighted to be sharing this historic moment - the unveiling of the Fabergé Pearl Egg - with Mr Hussain and Mr Ali Al- Fardan in Doha. It is a distinct pleasure and privilege for me and the Fabergé team to have collaborated with them in sourcing some of the finest pearls in the world for this creation. We hold our partnership, and indeed our friendship, with Mr Hussain and Mr Ali Al-Fardan, in the highest regard.” For thousands of years, the most desirable and valuable naturalpearlscamefromtheArabianGulf,theRedSeaand the Gulf of Manaar in South East Asia. In the Middle East in particular, pearl- fishing was the pillar of the regional economy, booming in the 18th and 19th centuries as demand soared. The introduction of cultured pearls at the beginning of the 20th century and the exhaustion of oyster beds in the region contributed to the decline of the pearl trade, and saw the oil industry become the predominant source of wealth in the Gulf. As a result, natural oriental pearls have become highly sought-after wonders of nature given their beauty and lustre. The Fabergé Pearl Egg was unveiled at the prestigious Doha Watch and Jewellery Exhibition, which took place from 23rd to 28th February 2015 at the Qatar National Convention Centre, Doha. Jewellery Historian 019 PhotocourtesyofFABERGE©FABERGE
  • 21. AWARDED GRAND PRIZE OF 2015 JCK JEWELERS’ CHOICE AWARDS OMI PRIVÉ Fine gemstone jewelry designer, Omi Privé, is awarded the Grand Prize in the eighth annual JCK Jewelers’ Choice Awards.Retailjewelersfromaroundtheworldvotedthe4.33 carat Lightning Ridge black opal ring by Omi Privé as the “Best Ring Design over $10,000,” and the Grand Prize winner. Eachyearawardsaregiveninmultiplecategories;thepiece that earns the most votes is honored with the Grand Prize. The JCK Jewelers’ Choice Awards is the industry’s biggest retailer-determined design competition. Celebrating its eighth year, Jewelers’ Choice continues to challenge designers and manufacturers to create innovative and salable pieces and to offer retailers the opportunity to vote on their favorites. The focus of the award winning ring is the extraordinary play of color in the center black opal. The opal is accentuated with 0.46 carats of trillion green tsavorite garnets and 0.24 carats of round blue sapphires. The shank of the ring sparkles with 0.42 carats of brilliant round diamonds. The ring was crafted by hand in 18K yellow gold in Los Angeles, California. "We are honored to win the Grand Prize award; it is very meaningfultome,asjewelryretailersaretheonesthatvoted onourpiece!"saysNiveetNagpal,PresidentandDesignerof Omi Privé. "My passion lies in color, and I am especially pleased with the way the colors come together in this ring. I am excited and honored that it has been recognized amongst so many beautiful entries." Omi Privé also earned merits with its black opal and tsavorite garnet ring. This piece was announced as a finalist in the category of “Platinum Jewelry over $10,000.” Omi Privé designs have been honored in the JCK Jewelers’ Choice Awards each year since the brand’s launch in 2012. The award winning opal ring is featured on the March 2015 cover of JCK Magazine. Further details of the ring may be viewed online at OmiPrivé.com or viewed in person May 28th through June 1st at The Couture show, Wynn Las Vegas, Salon 143. Omi Privé joins the passion of superior craftsmanship with the ultimate beauty of fine rare gemstones. As purveyors of the world’s greatest rarities, they select only the finest gemstones of unsurpassed quality for their fine jewelry designs and many have been featured also in the Jewellery Historian. Every Omi Privé piece is handcrafted in the United States, and exceeds the most exacting standards. Uniting the nature of the gemstone with the art of design is their specialty. Please visit www.omiprive.com to view their complete collection. Jewellery Historian 021 PhotocourtesyofOMIPRIVÉ©OMIPRIVÉ
  • 22. Business In his new global role, Bennett — who is based in Geneva, Switzerland, will help design and implement a strategy of continued expansion and business development for the jewelry branch of the auction house. Jewelry sales at Sotheby’s in 2014 garnered $603 million, the highest annual total for the category ever. It also marked the third year in a row of record jewelry sales for Sotheby’s. SOTHEBY'S appoints David Bennett Jewelry Division Chairman Jewellery Historian022
  • 24. Daryl Wickstrom, International Managing Director of Sotheby’s Jewellery & Watch Divisions, on March 5, 2015 announcedtheappointmentofDavidBennettto the newly- created position of Worldwide Chairman of Sotheby’s International Jewellery Division. Mr. Wickstrom commented: “David Bennett has led Sotheby’sjewellerysalesinEuropetoanincrediblelistof historic results over the course of his four decades with the Company. He is celebrated and respected throughout this field for his impressive scholarship, extensive knowledge of jewellery and precious stones, and consummate skills as an auctioneer. Sotheby’s global sales of jewellery are experiencing some of the fastest growth among the many collecting categories we offer, and in this new global role David will help design and implement a strategy for the continued expansion and development of this critical arm of our business. With the support of a network of jewellery expertsthatisunparalleledintheauctionmarket,ledby Lisa Hubbard, Chairman North & South America, Sotheby’s Jewellery, Quek Chin Yeow, Chairman Asia, Sotheby’s Jewellery, and Patti Wong, Chairman of Sotheby’s Diamonds, the Company stands in a unique position to serve our rapidly-expanding client base.” Mr. Bennett said: “Sotheby’s jewellery sales are in an excellent position to experience continued growth beyond our recent record results, which culminated in 2014 with our highest-ever annual total of more than $600 million in sales. Our client base is constantly expanding – buyers from more than 74 countries participated in our auctions last year in New York, Geneva, Hong Kong and London, with a quarter of all biddersparticipatinginaSotheby’sauctionfortheirfirst time. I look forward to working with Lisa, Chin Yeow, Patti, and our international senior specialist team to continue building an exciting, diverse and innovative jewellerybusinessthatservesbothnewandestablished collectors and influential members of the trade on a global basis." Under Mr. Bennett’s leadership, Sotheby’s Geneva has presented many jewels of supreme historical importance, among them the legendary “Beau Sancy”, a diamond that had once graced the collection of Henry IV of France, and the magnificent emeraldanddiamondtiaraformerlyinthecollectionof PrincessKatharinaHenckelvonDonnersmarck.Heisthe co-author, with Daniela Mascetti, of the celebrated reference book Understanding Jewellery, in print since 1989, and Celebrating Jewellery (2012). SOTHEBY'S app oints David Bennett Jewelry Division Chairman Jewellery Historian024 PhotocourtesyofSotheby's
  • 25. In the Geneva-based role, Bennett will design and implement a strategy for the continued expansion and development of Sotheby’s global jewelry business, which the auction house says is one of its fastest growing categories, achieving $603 million in sales in 2014. During his tenure, Mr. Bennett has presided over many record-breaking sales, including the “Graff Pink” that set the current auction record for any diamond and any jewel when it sold for $46.2 million in November 2010, as well as an extraordinary seven 100+ carat diamonds. He has beeninstrumentalinpresentingmanyofSotheby’smosticonicjewellery auctions, including the Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor (1987), the PrincelyCollectionsofThurnandTaxis(1992),andthecollectionsofAva Gardner, H.H. Begum Sultan Mohamed Shah Aga Khan, Maria Callas, Gina Lollobrigida and, most recently, Dimitri Mavrommatis. Jewellery Historian 025 InfographicbyJEWELLERYHISTORIANwithdatacourtesyofSotheby'sInfographicbyJEWELLERYHISTORIANwithdatacourtesyofSotheby's
  • 27. new collection by Love Letter PhotocourtesyofZOLOTAS©ZOLOTAS Jewellery Historian 027 Love is a face, a name dressed in words, words expressing emotions. For Valentine's Day, ZOLOTAS House of Jewelry, inspired by the romantic power of a love letter, created and introduced the "Love Letter" collection in silver and gold, definitely a unique way to express your love by engraving this one word that will stay forever. The ZOLOTAS house of jewelry has been writing history in the Decorative Arts since 1895. The house’s distinctive rings, drop earrings, necklaces and bracelets have been in the front line for more than a century. ThehouseofZOLOTAScelebratesthetimelessnessof luxury with creations that reflect history, tradition and passion for the 'unique'.This unique display of the love has attracted international recognition of important personages, celebrities, social and political elite, such as Elizabeth Taylor , Jacqueline Kennedy, the Kennedy family, Catherine Deneuve, Grace Kelly, shipping magnate Aristotle Onassis, all sought Zolotas creations. At the Jewellery Historian, we really loved the ‘Love Letter’ bracelet in 18KT yellow gold set with a diamond and a gold chain and the ‘Love Letter’ pendant in 18KT pink gold set with a diamond and a pink gold chain. With a retail price of €450 for each, this bracelet ( and the pendant as well) is an absolute must-have for all romantics fashionistas who know how to make a statement of elegance. The real bonus, is that you can engrave the back side with a private message, word or even a name. All you have to do is to ask for it and ZOLOTAS will do it for you. We asked to ZOLOTAS to do it for us and the result is gorgeous. You can buy them in the ZOLOTAS boutiques in Athens, but also at the webstore of ZOLOTAS (www.zolotas.gr). For engraving in the back of the letter, please add your message, name or word in your order or contact ZOLOTAS by phone. To view the new collection visit a ZOLOTAS Boutique or visit the official website and webstore, that will send it directly to your home. www.zolotas.gr PhotocourtesyofZOLOTAS©ZOLOTAS
  • 29. at the Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition 2015 AVAKIAN With boutiques in Geneva, London, Moscow, Beverly Hills and New York, and plans for Middle East, Asian and Russian expansion, Avakian has long been geared towards clients who seek the extraordinary - from extravagant crowns worn at the weddings of princes and princesses, to elaborate bespoke commissions for governments and oligarchs. A third-generation family jeweler, Avakian is accustomed to serving royalty, heads of state and the Hollywood elite.At Avakian, their design influences are as eclectic and international as their family history. Bulgarian-born, American-educated Edmond Avakian, a civil engineer and a trained gemmologist, joined the jewelery businesshisparentshadstartedinLebanon. Edmond would later relocate to Geneva, opening his very first boutique there as well as four more round the world, before appointing his children, Haig and Corinne, as directors of the company. Being a family owned business allows Avakian to respond immediately when clients call them with urgent requests for customised pieces, and in some cases, hand delivery. It means they regularly work with some of the same stone suppliers and the same Swiss and Italian workshops which we’ve been working with for over 30 years – all of them dedicated to remarkable craftsmanship, be it goldsmithing, enamelling or stone-setting. It also allows them to offer a uniquely personal service. In particular in Beverly Hills, against Rodeo Drive’s backdrop of global luxury powerhouses, family-owned Avakian has a special cachet. Customers visiting the boutique in the legendary Beverly Wilshire hotel know they can speak directly to a member of the Avakian family. This year, AVAKIAN participated at the Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition 2015, which was held in Doha from February 24 to February 28 at the Qatar National Convention Centre. The Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition is an unprecedented artisan exhibition of the world’s most luxurious jewellery and watches. Held annually in Qatar it attracts world renown jewellers, watch makers and exhibitors and jewellery enthusiasts. The aims of the exhibition are to demonstratethelatesttrendsintheindustry today; showcase the most magnificent gemstones and sophisticated timepieces in the world; portray the dynamism of Qatar and its strong and progressive economy; and to encourage foreign investors to Qatar. We are proud to showcase some pieces of Haute Joaillerie that AVAKIAN presented at the Doha Jewellery and Watches Exhibition 2015. Jewellery Historian 029 PhotocourtesyofAVAKIAN©AVAKIANPhotocourtesyofAVAKIAN©AVAKIANPhotocourtesyofAVAKIAN©AVAKIAN PhotocourtesyofAVAKIAN©AVAKIAN
  • 30. GET ALL ISSUES F R E E D O W N L O A D F R E E S U B S C R I T I O N
  • 33. Meghna Jewels is the fine jewelry line by designer Meghna Patel. Based is Chicago, and launched in 2014, the brand is defined by its use of stones, diamonds, and structural silver and gold to develop adventurous, luxurious and wearable pieces. After launching a successful trend jewelry line in 2011, Patel transitioned into fine jewelry. The trend jewelry pieces were an instant hit and have graced by many publications and has also been worn by Blake Lively and Kelly Rutherford in the hit TV Show “GOSSIP GIRL”. The trend line was carried in many reputed stores including Calypso St. Barth, Tootsies, Fred Segal, Sophie’s Closet (Dubai) and many more. The move has given the designer the opportunity to focus more on the intricate designs and details of jewelry rather than mass production. Meghna believes that, across all cultures, jewelry is what completes any outfit and that every detail in design should be specific and deliberate. “My pieces are the product of my imagination and things that inspire me in everyday life. I want to design jewelry that captivates womens’ heart and soul.” Meghna’s process is organic, starting simply with a sketch on a piece of paper. With constant inspiration for her designs through anything she falls in love with at first sight, her pieces embody all the little elements that come into her life from the places she has lived and traveled. > A d v e n t u r o u s , l u x u r i u s & w e a r a b l e Jewellery Historian 033 PhotocourtesyofMEGHNAJEWELS ©MEGHNAJEWELS
  • 34. > Inspired by her Indian heritage, Patel uses bold precious stones, layering her designs with her signature diamond pave arches. “It’s all about the touches of color, mixing black and white diamonds with beautifully cut stones to add that little pop,” says the designer, “I love playing with the structural element of lines and symmetry and combining that with aspects of my Indian lineage by using colorful stones to give my jewels that extra something.” Overall, Patel’s process is simple and organic. Receiving constant inspiration for her designs through anything she falls in with at first sight, her pieces embody all the little elements that come into her life from the places she has lived and traveled. “What I hope to convey with every bracelet or ring,” says Patel, “is a warm invitation to go where I have been and see what I have witnessed around the globe.” What makes Meghna Jewels amazing is the purity of the design line that mixes a unique cultural heritage, the one of the designer to the world cultural heritage. Her creations are an amazing start and at the Jewellery Historian we are proud and very happy to showcase her work. As a gemologist and a jewellery designer myself, I am definitely sure that in the future Meghna will delight us with many more creations, Jewellery Historian034 PhotocourtesyofMEGHNAJEWELS ©MEGHNAJEWELS
  • 36. Jewellery Historian036 PhotocourtesyofMEGHNAJEWELS ©MEGHNAJEWELS After launching a successful trend jewelry line in 2011, the pieces were an instant hit and have graced by many publications and have also been worn by Blake Lively and Kelly Rutherford in“GOSSIP GIRL”.
  • 38. Jewellery Historian038 > "As a child, I loved to draw. Drawing was always something that came naturally to me. Like many young women, I became fascinated with the world of fashion. I would watch runway shows, and be particularly moved by the accessories that complimented each designer's piece. It wasn't long before my love of art and fashion merged and I began to draw jewelry. I envisioned these pieces hanging off the hand of women like me who loved color and haute couture. I begin simply, with a blank piece of paper and an idea. That idea can occur to me anywhere, often, in the most unlikely places, but soon enough I complete a sketch and that marks the birth of that particular piece. My favorite part of the design process is being able to witness the life of each piece. Looking back at when I finally began to work on my pieces, I realize now what came out in some ways is representative of the places I've lived and traveled to. My pieces are not demure; they're adventurous. What I hope to convey with every bracelet or ring is a warm invitation to go where I have been and see what I have witnessed around the globe. I am grateful to all of the many fans, to the cities which have inspired me, and the family that helped propel me, and I wish just as many blessings to each of you. PhotocourtesyofMEGHNAJEWELS ©MEGHNAJEWELS
  • 39. Jewellery Historian 039 “What I hope to convey with every bracelet or ring,” says Patel, “is a warm invitation to go where I have been and see what I have witnessed around the globe.” PhotocourtesyofMEGHNAJEWELS ©MEGHNAJEWELS
  • 42. Jewellery Historian042 Overall, Patel’s process is simple and organic. Receiving constant inspiration for her designs through anything she falls in with at first sight, her pieces embody all the little elements that come into her life from the places she has lived and traveled.
  • 47. C H I M E N T O Hand-made beauty, versatility, and reversibility Jewellery Historian 047 Since 1964 the CHIMENTO family has been associated with unique and exclusive creations using gold as the undisputed protagonist. Showcasing a unique mix of creativity, craftsmanship and attention to detail, CHIMENTO’s creations have become synonym with top quality 18k gold Italian Jewelry.All CHIMENTO collections are a perfect blend of tradition and design, setting the new classic benchmarks of Italian jewelry with their elegant, refined and contemporary style.
  • 50. Jewellery Historian050 Chimento is the story of an all-Italian family, gifted with initiative and will power, which first started in 1964 in Grisignano di Zocco, a province of Vicenza and the seat of Italy's goldsmith tradition. 2500 years ago, the Etruscans, in what is present-day Tuscany, created among the most beautiful gold metalwork of the ancient world. Today, Italy remains a leader in the transformation of that precious metal into masterpieces of design and craftsmanship. It was in the great tradition of the masters of Italian goldsmiths that Adriano Chimento established a design and production studio for fine designer 18K gold and diamond jewelry in 1964 in Vicenza, Italy. The Company was founded on the intuition and imagination of Adriano Chimento, the Company's founder and President, and today is run by the next generation of the family of jewelers, who is dedicated to original creativity and the guiding principles of the brand. Chimento is one of the most important brands in the world of jewelry. Since 1964 the CHIMENTO family has been associated with unique and exclusive creations using gold as the undisputed protagonist. Showcasing a unique mix of creativity, craftsmanship and attention to detail, CHIMENTO’s creations have become synonym with top quality 18k gold Italian Jewelry.All CHIMENTO collections are a perfect blend of tradition and design, setting the new classic benchmarks of Italian jewelry with their elegant, refined and C H I M E N T O Hand-made beauty, versatility, and reversibility PhotocourtesyofCHIMENTO ©CHIMENTO
  • 56. Jewellery Historian056 >Chimento has since grown into a successful jewelry manufacturer with a global presence in Europe, Asia, and the Americas. Today Chimento S.P.A. has a 70,000 square foot design and production studio in Vicenza, a small town in Italy known as the gold capital of the world. Master goldsmiths and jewelers combine old-world handcrafting with state-of-the-art processes like electroforming and microfusion to produce a collection unique in style and finish. The production studio has over 140 skilled employees, some of which manually create each piece of jewelry by hand. Chimento jewelry provides the customer with beauty, security, versatility, and reversibility. Chimento jewels are dedicated to women who love contemporary design and classic style and want to experience the thrill of wearing a precious jewel every day. Looking into the hearts of women, capturing their desires; every CHIMENTO piece is born for this. Original shapes, innovative materials, design evolution and research. And a lot of passion. Chimento successfully creates innovative and unique pieces that become fashion musts. Chimento's collections offer a complete assortment of gold jewelry. The taste and original interpretation of trends is best expressed in the DESIGN collection for women and the TRENDY collection for men, while the classicism and elegance that has made Chimento famous is evident in the TRADITION and CLASSIC collections. HD Silver represents an innovative approach whereby Chimento has brought their particular and inimitable style to the world of silver. From now on, at Chimento, not only gold will set the trends. PhotocourtesyofCHIMENTO ©CHIMENTO
  • 71. You can download every issue for your personal use. For further information visit www.jewelleryhistorian.com
  • 73. On any given day, if you walk into the Gumuchian office in Manhattan, you will see several women buzzing around, all with one goal in mind: to bring our clients the most exquisite, timeless and perfectly executed jewelry they have ever seen or worn. Our founder and visionary, Anita Gumuchian and her daughters Myriam and Patricia carry on a family legacy in the jewelry industry that dates back over 100 years. Together, the Gumuchian women combine the excellence of traditional European craftsmanship with fashion-forward designs. From this vision our “Designed by Women for Women” mantra emerged, setting out to embody the confidence and beauty of all women. During your visit you will find Anita perched at her desk sifting through piles of the finest quality diamonds and gemstones to be set into precious metals to adorn our clientele. Amid this mix of diamonds and gems, you can see the sketches and designs that will soon be transformed from vision into wearable jewelry. One door down from Anita you will find Patricia developing ideas and sketching; she draws her inspiration from her travels and natural surroundings. Patricia adds sophistication and elegance to every piece, ensuring that the design will not only satisfy the tastes of our most discerning customers, but also serve as a cherished heirloom for future generations. Just down the hall, Myriam will be in her office, dressed to kill and dripping in Gumuchian jewelry. Myriam’s contagious and vivacious energy, passion and hard work is impossible not to notice the moment you lay eyes on her. As the Vice President of Sales and Marketing, Myriam serves as the voice for Gumuchian’s jewelry and her experience in the industry and knowledge of customer needs makes her perfectly suited to bridge the gap between designer and consumer. > Gumuchian A c o l l e c t i o n f o r b e e s Jewellery Historian 073 PhotocourtesyofGUMUCHIAN ©GUMUCHIAN
  • 74. >The Gumuchian trio spends their days developing new designs with innovation and an enthusiasm that radiates throughout the office and onto the jewelers’ benches. Each design is brought to life by master jewelers in Gumuchian’s Manhattan atelier, never using anything below platinum or 18k yellow, white and pink gold. This office is where the team of women comes together as one, treating each design as a tiny sculpture, ensuring each piece is built to wear with comfort while lasting a lifetime. This is what it means to be “Designed by Women for Women”. The Gumuchian family has been in the diamond and jewelry industry for more than 100 years. In 1979 Gumuchian was created in New York by Anita and her daughters, Myriam and Patricia. Inspired by their European lineage the trio saw the need to create a refined collection in order to better serve the American market. From that vision, Gumuchian’s “Designed by Women for Women” mantra was born, setting out to capture the confidence and beauty of all women. Together the trio has created jewelry recognized for its creativity, innovation and unequaled craftsmanship. Each design is brought to life and perfectly executed by highly-skilled Master jewelers in their atelier in New York City. Gumuchian’s commitment to excellence does not go unnoticed as they have been the recipient of many jewelry design awards including: Excellence in Design from WJA (Women’s Jewelry Association) in 1995. North America Couture Show for best design with pearls & the Latin American Couture Show for best design in colored gemstones both in 1998. Couture Design Awards in 2002 for best in bridal. In 2004 Gumuchian was the winner of the DPS & JCK for their diamond right hand ring. Myriam Gumuchian became the first woman appointed chair of the JIC (Jewelry Information Center) in 2006 and held the position for two years. In 2008 Gumuchian was the winner of the Jeweler’s Choice award. In 2008 Myriam was elected membership into the elite 24 Karat Club. Myriam received the Dedication & Leadership award from New York Jeweler’s Group in 2012 (Myriam was the president from 2010-2012). Winner of the Centurion 2012 Platinum design award for their three- way diamond Gallop necklace. Most recently Gumuchian was the receiver of the Centurion 2013 Platinum design award for their Bowlero necklace as well as the AJA, Armenian Jewelry Association Award for Best International Emerging Brand of the year.> Jewellery Historian074 PhotocourtesyofGUMUCHIAN ©GUMUCHIAN
  • 78. > The luxury brand Gumuchian introduced a new apis-inspired collection at the JCK show on May 30th in support of the declining honeybee population that is affecting plant life and food supply worldwide. This collection we selected at the Jewellery Historian to showcase. We definitely loved this nature inspired collection but we really loved that a portion of the proceeds from the sale of the collection – which is simply named “B” – will be donated to the non-profit, HoneyLove.org, which supports urban beekeeping and home gardens. According to recent studies, including those by the U.S. Department of Agriculture, one in every three bites of food consumed in the United States is either directly or indirectly pollinated by bees. “I have never been afraid of bees. I think they’re wonderful” said Patricia Gumuchian, who was inspired to design the collection after reading numerous articles about the effects that a declining honeybee population would have on the environment. “I look around our office of women and think about the worker bees – who are the female bees – and how valuable they are to our livelihood. Our family gatherings and holidays largely center on all types of foods. What would happen if these things just went away? The effects could be detrimental. We need to change what’s going on.” The suite itself is offered in 18K gold and includes both link and cuff bracelets, earrings, pendants, rings, and five different bee- related charms. “Many of our collections are inspired by nature” said Vice President of Sales, Myriam Gumuchian, “but this aspect of nature didn’t just inspire the designs, it also inspired us to be part of something bigger. A productive hive consists of successful teamwork, which we demonstrate daily in our New York office. The ‘B’ collection represents our appreciation of these remarkable creatures and our goal is to bring awareness to this growing problem. If honeybees continue to decline at the rate they are, we are all in big trouble.” For more information about urban beekeeping, visit www.honeylove.org PhotocourtesyofGUMUCHIAN ©GUMUCHIAN Jewellery Historian078
  • 87. support us TOTELLOURSTORIES visit & read our website OPEN invite a speaker tweet www.JewelleryHistorian.com
  • 88. MOUSSON ATELIER Jewellery Historian088 Beauty, setted in precious metals and stones Creativity is a motion, a search, it's always a little rebellion. At Mousson Atelier, they have abandoned the beaten path and stereotypes, and became innovators in what they do. Creativity has become an integral part of them, making them a contemporary brand of Haute Joaillerie. cover story
  • 90. Jewellery Historian090 Each bright personality is beautiful in its uniqueness. We appreciate those who can bravely make a statement and does not hesitate to reveal his or her identity every second. Mousson Atelierjewelleryisunique,originaland attractive - worthy setting for the extraordinary person. Mousson Atelier was founded in 2008 in St. Petersburg, Russia. Atelier was born as a result of an alliance of professionals with over 20 years experience in creating jewelry and collecting unique gemstones. Today Mousson Atelier keeps the family tradition of innovation and creates jewelry in a modern & classic style. Innovation in design and manufacturing quality are the key principles of the company. We pay great importance to creating jewellery that is valuable ultimately in its beauty. Creativity is a motion, a search, it's always a little rebellion. For this reason at Mousson Atelier they have abandoned the beaten path and stereotypes, and became innovators in what they do. Creativity has become an integral part of them, and it allows them to give rise to more and more new images! A flash of inspiration allows them to leave the narrow frames of the ordinary life. They are able to find something beautiful in everything - and show it to others. Their creations are a synonym of beauty, setted in precious metals and stones. They select the highest quality materials:18 K gold of different colors, precious stones of various shapes, colors, sizes and cuts. Together these componentsturnintoawidevarietyof unique creatures. The flawless creationofthejewelleryistheproduct of advanced technologies of jewelry industry & high-grade hand work. At the Jewellery Historian we are honored to showcase their unique creations. M O U S S O N A T E L I E R Beauty, setted in precious metals and stones
  • 92. Jewellery Historian092 Life is limitless and always unexpected. This is fully reflected in the Mousson Atelier collections - a hymn to nature and life.
  • 95. Jewellery Historian 095 A flash of inspiration allows Mousson Atelier to leave the narrow frames of the ordinary life. They are able to find something beautiful in everything – and show it to others. Their creations are beauty, set in precious metals and stones.
  • 96. Jewellery Historian096 Images of Mousson Atelier’s creations are born by nature – and therefore by life itself.
  • 98. Jewellery Historian098 Mousson Atelier is definitely able to find something beautiful in everything - and show it to others with a creation of perfection.
  • 101. Jewellery Historian 101 Perfection reflects in the aesthetic sense of the creations by Mousson. Such a notable work, and marvelous collections, that you desire them all.
  • 102. Jewellery Historian102 Real wonders happen in the Mousson atelier workshop! Wonders that you will not be able to resist !
  • 105. Jewellery Historian 105 Mousson Atelier collections live and constantly update. They feature exclusive jewellery pieces & stylish elegant products that are available to a wide audience with respect to each bright personality & its uniqueness.
  • 107. Jewellery Historian 107 At Mousson Atelier, collections are the expert craftsmanship of the past and high-tech processes that look to the future.
  • 108. Jewellery Historian108 The flawless creation of the jewellery is the product of advanced technologies of jewellery industry, the best traditional techniques & high- grade hand work.
  • 111. Jewellery Historian 111 Each piece in theMousson Atelier's Haute Joaillerie collection is a unique work of jewellery art, that you will not find anywhere in the world! These pieces not only have high design value but also an investment appeal.
  • 112. Jewellery Historian112 Mousson Atelier's jewellery is definitely created combining passion to the unique savoir-faire of high end jewellery.
  • 115. Jewellery Historian 115 At Mousson Atelier, you can find the colors of every season in their unique jewelry pieces! Select the set of your favorite color combination but remember - the seasons change and jewelry stays forever.
  • 116. Jewellery Historian116 Mousson Atelier's jewellery is valuable ultimately in its beauty.
  • 119. Jewellery Historian 119 Mousson Atelier jewellery is unique, original and attractive - worthy setting for the extraordinary person.
  • 120. Jewellery Historian120 Mousson Atelier keeps the family tradition of innovation and creates jewelry in a modern & classic style, ultimately in its beauty.
  • 123. Jewellery Historian 123 Mousson Atelier – is a unique jewelry design brand, producing jewelry of creative design and high quality, as only few brands worldwide do.
  • 124. Jewellery Historian124 Mousson Atelier is passionate about creating stunning jewellery for their clientele; they consider themselves your partner. they consider a client’s success is their best reward.
  • 126. Subscribe for FREE Don't miss any issue. Visit today www.jewelleryhistorian.com and subscribe for free. You will receive every new issue for free in your mailbox at the moment of publication.
  • 127.
  • 129. The fruit of artisanal expertise With a flair for fusing East with West and a passion for running a truly independent family business, the House of Adler has long been at the centre of the jewellery world. Jewellery Historian 129 PhotocourtesyofADLERJOAILLIERS©ADLERJOAILLIERS
  • 130. Jewellery Historian130 As the proverb rightly says, one swallow does not make a summer. Yet, is it not flowers that mesmerise and herald the arrival of warm weather? Flora, the Roman goddess of spring and vegetation, is one of the most important Roman deities. Every year, a great festival was held in her honour across the Empire to encourage a bountiful harvest. Inspired by these Floralia festivals, Adler’s new collection breathes life into delicate, twinkling buds. Each one blooms forth, revealing its colourful attire and unique beauty with each passing day. The magic emanating from these precious bouquets can be perceived in the details: sapphire, ruby, and yellow and white diamond petals shine clear and bright, adorning several sets of jewellery. The necklaces, earrings and rings are perceptively set; composed of a dozenstones,theseblossomingjewelscanreach up to thirty carats, with cuts that vary between round, pear and oval. The fruit of artisanal expertise, these 18kt white- gold creations set with exceptional gemstones blossom at a woman’s touch and give rise to spring on Earth. T h e f r u i t o f a r t i s a n a l e x p e r t i s e
  • 138. Jewellery Historian138 Gold pin with amethyst by Jean Baptiste Bonnard, c. 1824 - c. 1829 J.G. de Groot Jamin Bequest, Amsterdam Photo courtesy of Rijksmuseum, Amsterdam
  • 139. Dionysus was the god of wine and fertility in ancient Greece, and just like the wine he represented, he had a dual nature. On one side he would bring joy and divine ecstasy and on the other side he would be brutal with a violent rage. One of those “angry” days when he was enraged with the mortals, he swore that he would release his tigers against the first human he would encounter. This is when he met Amethystos, a young and beautiful maiden, on her way to Diana’s temple. When the goddess saw the fierce animals running towards the girl, she instantly transformed her into a statue of colorless quartz in order to protect her. Dionysus awoke from the fierce rage he has fallen into, realized what he has done, and ashamed of his action he wept tears of wine over the statue. His tears stained the quartz and gave it a purple colour, creating the gemstone Amethyst. Ancient civilizations praised amethysts, sometimes even more than other expensive gemstones. Romans and Greeks would drink wine from amethyst-laden cups as they thought that the gems would protect them from getting drunk and intoxicated. Actually, the term amethyst means not- drunk, sober. It was said that St. Valentine wore a ring that featured an amethyst with a carved cupid in it, while we meet amethysts in many religious jewelry, still today, as purple is thought to be the colour of Jesus Christ. Biblical references mention that amethyst is one of the twelve gems found in Aaron’s breastplate and that the twelfth foundation of the Holy City was built on amethyst. Amethysts are also protagonists in many royal regalia, like the beautiful amethyst tiara of Queen Mary of England and the Napoleonic amethyst parure of Queen Josephine of Leuchtenberg. > Amethyst Jewellery Historian 139 The unique breathtaking beauty of gems by Eva Kountouraki
  • 140. Jewellery Historian140 > All these legends, symbols and history have given amethyst a precious and unique character that still keeps it popular among the consumers. However, in today’s markets, amethyst is no longer a very expensive gemstone as many sources have been discovered and exploited, that made the gem more plentiful and more affordable. Still, high quality amethysts that exhibit a strong warm purple colour with reddish tints are rare and would sell for premium prices. Amethyst is the most famous variety of the gemstone species quartz, a large family of well-known and widely used gems that includes, among others, the yellow to orange-red citrine, the colorless rock crystal, the light green praseolite, the pink rose quartz, and the brown smoky quartz. Quartz is one of the most important minerals in the earth. It is found in many types of rock and in varying environments. If we keep the same basic chemistry but change the crystal class and formation we find aggregate quartz types such as chalcedony that comes in many different varieties, like agate, onyx, chrysoprase and carnelian, just to name a few.> PhotocourtesyofNICOLELANDAW ©NICOLELANDAW These amazing amethyst earrings by Nicole Landaw, have been previously shown in our issue 7
  • 141. Jewellery Historian 141 PhotocourtesyofCROW'SNEST ©CROW'SNEST Amethyst is the most famous variety of the gemstone species quartz, a large family of well-known and widely used gems that includes, among others, the yellowtoorange-redcitrine,thecolorlessrockcrystal, thelightgreenpraseolite,thepinkrosequartz,andthe brown smoky quartz. A gorgeous amethyst ring by Crow's Nest, previously shown in our issue 3.
  • 142. Jewellery Historian142 “Ancient civilizations praised amethysts, sometimes even more than other expensive gemstones. Romans and Greeks would drink wine from amethyst-laden cups as they thought that the gems would protect them from getting drunk and intoxicated. Actually, the term amethyst means not-drunk, sober.” This amazing Kara Ross cuff bracelet, has been previously shown in our issue 3
  • 144. > Amethyst, like all quartz, is a durable gemstone with good hardness and toughness, properties that make it suitable for everyday use in all types of jewelry. It can be carved in unique shapes and polished in all cutting styles. It is one of the most versatile gemstones in the market today as it can be included in all jewels, from very high-end to more affordable. Its long and valued history and important symbolism make an unusual couple with the fact that it is readily available, which makes this gemstone attractive to everyone. Amethyst’s colour range is very narrow; in fact, quartz must be purple in order to be called amethyst. To this we can only add secondary tints that create reddish purple or violetish purple colours, while its tone can vary from very light to very dark, with the medium tone being the most desirable, as the rich purple hue look its best when neither too dark, nor too light. Dionysus who was the only God to have one mortal parent. This fact has always made humans feel a special connection with him, with his passions, anger, and very “mortal” feelings. All these subconscious sensations are conveyed from antiquity to today in amethyst. In fact, amethyst is one of those gemstones deeply connected with humans for millennia. Although its availability may give the impression of a less valuable gem, its beauty and long history is here to remind us that there is no such thing as an inferior or a semi- precious gemstone. In fact, there is, and never has been, anything “semi” in the power that amethysts exert on humans.. Jewellery Historian144 PhotocourtesyofFARAHKHANFINEJEWELLERY ©FARAHKHANFINEJEWELLERY These unique earrings created by Farah Khan Fine Jewellery, feature gorgeous amethysts as center stone accented with diamonds and rubies. Unique creations of Farah Khan fine jewellery have been featured previously on our issue 4.
  • 145. Eva Kountouraki was born and raised in a family of goldsmiths and jewelers. Succeeding unprecedented results in the practice and theory of gemology, analyzing and identifying thousands of gemstones and diamonds, she graduated and acquired the prestigious certificate GIA Graduate Gemologist Diploma, which includes specific studies in diamond grading (GIA Graduate Diamonds Diploma) and colored gemstones (GIA Graduate Colored Stones Diploma). Her studies in the jewelry field continued and Eva got her Jewelry Business Management Diploma, gainingspecializedknowledgeabout all the aspects of the jewelry industry. Her training continued with jewelry design and computer aided design. Eva’s brilliant path in the field of gemology was crowned by her collaborationwiththeItalianbranchof GIA. Eva received special training from professional and experienced gemologist of GIA Italy, New York and California US, and for more than a decade she teaches gemology and jewelry design in GIA, transferring her experience, knowledge and passion for diamonds, gems and jewelry to her students -famous professionals from around world. AttheJewelleryHistorianweareproud to have in our team Eva Kountouraki andhermonthlycolumnineveryissue. Every month, discover a new gemstone and the unique breathtaking beauty of gems. Eva Kountouraki “Amethyst’s colour range is very narrow; in fact, quartz must be purple in order to be called amethyst. To this we can only add secondary tints that create reddish purple or violetish purple colours, while its tone can vary from very light to very dark, with the medium tone being the most desirable, as the rich purple hue look its best when neither too dark, nor too light.” Jewellery Historian 145 PhotocourtesyofFARAHKHANFINEJEWELLERY ©FARAHKHANFINEJEWELLERY
  • 146. Jewellery Historian146 Our Faves In every issue, we handpick the finest jewellery for you to choose , enabling you to add a sophisticated, elegant touch to the most important times of your life. In this issue we invite you in our "Jardin Secret".
  • 148. Jewellery Historian148 Our Faves SYLVIE CORBELIN ANA DE CCOSTA LYDIA COURTEILLE
  • 149. Jewellery Historian 149 GUMUSHIAN JEWELLERY THEATRE CARRERA Y CARRERA
  • 150. Jewellery Historian150 Our Faves SYLVIE CORBELIN DANIELA VILLEGAS
  • 151. Jewellery Historian 151 LYDIA COURTEILLE ADLER JOAILLIERS LE VIAN
  • 153. Jewellery Historian 153 SYLVIE CORBELIN CARRERA Y CARRERA CROW'S NEST
  • 154. Jewellery Historian154 Our Faves FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY KATHERINE JETTER
  • 156. Our Faves Jewellery Historian156 LYDIA COURTEILLE JEWELLERY THEATRE
  • 157. Jewellery Historian 157 FANOURAKIS CROW'S NEST CARRERA Y CARRERA
  • 159. Jewellery Historian 159 SYLVIE CORBELIN PASQUALE BRUNI LE VIAN CARRERA Y CARRERA
  • 160. address book ADLER www.adler-joailliers.com AVAKIAN www.avakian.com ANA DE COSTA www.anadecosta.com CARRERA Y CARRERA www.carreraycarrera.com CHIMENTO www.chimento.it CROW'S NEST www.crowsnestjewels.com DANIELA VILLEGAS www.danielavillegas.com FABERGÉ www.faberge.com FANOURAKIS www.fanourakis.gr FARAH KHAN FINE JEWELLERY www.farahkhanfinejewellery.com GUMUCHIAN www.gumuchian.com JEWELLERY THEATRE www.jewellerytheatre.com KATHERINE JETTER www.katherinejetter.com L'DEZEN www.ldezen.com LE VIAN www.levian.com LYDIA COURTEILLE www.lydiacourteille.com MORPHÉE JOAILLERIE www.morphee-joaillerie.com MEGHNA JEWELS www.meghnajewels.com MOUSSON ATELIER www.moussonatelier.ru NICOLE LANDAW www.nicolelandaw.com OMI PRIVÉ www.omiprive.com ORLOV JEWELRY www.orlovjewelry.com PASQUALE BRUNI www.pasqualebruni.com SYLVIE CORBELLIN www.sylvie-corbelin.com/sc/ SHAWISH www.shawish.ch THEODOROS www.theodoros.com.gr ZOLOTAS www.zolotas.gr brands featured in this issue Jewellery Historian160
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