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Solar Heater Project 2011   designed by Paul Cabral ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Summary ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Progress ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Attention Areas ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Costs ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
Technology ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
 
Recycled products will work!
 
Cut can as shown for heat spin
 
Next, stain your frame to protect it this is 1x6x10 cedar board
You may use other materials however, quality materials will out perform subpar materials
Make a secure setup for drilling the washed and cleaned cans
Next, use a ¾ inch metal bit to make a hole on bottom of can
Also, do not over tighten or risk damage to the thin cans design
Now you can see how the top differs from the bottom of can
Next, using your dimensions determine the size and cut out two manifolds and using a 2 ½” or 64mm hole saw make same number of holes in each to accept cans
Notice to remark your measurements for the 1” foil faced foam board and center.
Next, make sure you purchase 3 tubes of high heat sealant, you will need them to attach cans, insulation and glass or Lexan face to be used
As you can see, we used 1x4x8 pine strapping and made the sealed cans able to cure straight and strong, get a helper here
Notice, you will need 3 12oz.cans of flat black high heat spray paint for your aluminum cans and lining materials
Here, you must hang your cured cans on wire to be completely painted and dry prior to installation as well as inspection
Remember, to use same size cans and face cans the same way for max efficiency
Below, dry fit your cut out dimensional lumber and cans
Here, you may now reinforce corners for longevity and make more measurements for the insulation material on all sides and bottom to be inserted
Assure all cans are preinstalled and facing the same way before you continue, careful of scratching paint
1” foil foam board is cut to install under cans snuggly
Here, you should precut all other foam board for insulating all the other cavities. dry fit them as well
Continue to dry fit for best results and remeasure dimensions while you can
Next, use a 4”hole saw bit and install (2) 4”galv. vent with tabs for output and intake manifolds, at the top and bottom use metal tape if needed
Using hole saw through the ¼” plywood may work better
Here, insert the 4”vent, bend back tabs and screw down just long enough to grab backing material and not puncture through
Next, use metal tape on all exposed foam board cuts, bending over edges for a finished look and good seal
Here, use high heat silicon sealant for attaching foam board and seal all gaps for max ratings and performance
We installed two 4”outdoor hinges to the top of the backing so that this Solar Heater attaches to a Southern facing wall
Finally, it is coming together and all insulation is now taped and ready for aluminum flashing manifold covers
Cut Manifold covers to proper size using a utility knife and straight edge of wood to score and bend free
At the top of manifold a bowed piece of flashing is used to direct and channel heat out the top ductwork more effectively
Here, use high heat spray to touch up any exposed areas
Notice the screw holding the aluminum flashing arch with the 4” duct work for a secure fit and finish
Apply high heat caulking along entire edge of manifold and use weight to create good seal with scrap wood to prevent scraping
Carefully paint flashing, edging and trim off excess sealant which will be seen under the face material used
The top manifold will get a fan and small hole for wiring to connect to a small solar panel
Now your ready for measuring, cutting and sealing the bottom manifold before spray painting
Here you may start solar panel and fan prep
Be prepared to cut part of the wire and clips from fan and solar collector for your project
Next prepare to measure and trim fan edges to fit inside 4” vent
Notice the 4” circle made on the paper which will be used as a template to trim down the fan for a perfect fit
Use a cutoff/grinding wheel or saw to trim the tough plastic corners
Here you will remove connector clips from solar panel
Next remove the molex connectors and yellow wire from your 80mm fan and strip back the red and black wires about 1”
Attach connector clips to ends of wire for easy future removal if replacement of fan is needed
Also place the fan into the top vent hole and feed both wires through small hole on vent housing. Be sure to point arrows on 80mm fan housing away from vent opening. Air flow must be directed out from the top exhaust vent
Sign your project before the top face is finalized and sealed
Here you may use aluminum stair edge for your exterior trim and finish as it will secure the face
Be sure to seal all exposed areas
We used ¾” wood screws
Cut edging to size for your project
Next caulk exterior edging with generous amount of sealant and place face on top, once cured, install trim and screw down
Admire your efforts and reap the rewards from the sun forever.
 
Southern facing exposures are key as well as a clear path for sunlight ,[object Object],[object Object]
Measuring results with a brand new digital thermostat and the sensor inserted inside top vent
Notice the temperature of 149.3F and climbing
Here it is up to 152.6 and climbing
Notice the current air temperature is 94.3 F entering the bottom vent as well as the included packaging material for proof
Finally notice the end result and vent temperature readings observed from the top exhaust vent, Wow…
Temperature readings taken outside show 94.3 F,10mph breeze and slightly overcast w/sun shine were present.  Using a brand new digital thermometer to measure the heat exiting top and bottom vents of this Solar Heater demonstrate temps of 154.5 degrees F and climbing while using 94.3 F entering bottom vent.  This is a 60.2 degree increase in temperature using free heat folks. Where else can you produce this increase without fossil fuel help? In addition, if the fan did not come on the heat from the Solar Heater will continue to exit the top vent regardless. Should the fan fail you may replace it easily due to connectors and placement inside top vent inside building being heated if you choose.  Blocking the bottom and top vents should prevent overheating your selected area during the summer months or hot days which may not require additional heating. You will reap the rewards of your efforts and design for years to come by capturing and channeling heat created from recycled cans and sun light. We hope this convinces you and the skeptics of any doubts that could prevent your solar heater project of becoming reality and successful. -Paul Cabral

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Solar heater project 2011 p cabral

  • 1.
  • 2.
  • 3.
  • 4.
  • 5.
  • 6.
  • 7.  
  • 9.  
  • 10. Cut can as shown for heat spin
  • 11.  
  • 12. Next, stain your frame to protect it this is 1x6x10 cedar board
  • 13. You may use other materials however, quality materials will out perform subpar materials
  • 14. Make a secure setup for drilling the washed and cleaned cans
  • 15. Next, use a ¾ inch metal bit to make a hole on bottom of can
  • 16. Also, do not over tighten or risk damage to the thin cans design
  • 17. Now you can see how the top differs from the bottom of can
  • 18. Next, using your dimensions determine the size and cut out two manifolds and using a 2 ½” or 64mm hole saw make same number of holes in each to accept cans
  • 19. Notice to remark your measurements for the 1” foil faced foam board and center.
  • 20. Next, make sure you purchase 3 tubes of high heat sealant, you will need them to attach cans, insulation and glass or Lexan face to be used
  • 21. As you can see, we used 1x4x8 pine strapping and made the sealed cans able to cure straight and strong, get a helper here
  • 22. Notice, you will need 3 12oz.cans of flat black high heat spray paint for your aluminum cans and lining materials
  • 23. Here, you must hang your cured cans on wire to be completely painted and dry prior to installation as well as inspection
  • 24. Remember, to use same size cans and face cans the same way for max efficiency
  • 25. Below, dry fit your cut out dimensional lumber and cans
  • 26. Here, you may now reinforce corners for longevity and make more measurements for the insulation material on all sides and bottom to be inserted
  • 27. Assure all cans are preinstalled and facing the same way before you continue, careful of scratching paint
  • 28. 1” foil foam board is cut to install under cans snuggly
  • 29. Here, you should precut all other foam board for insulating all the other cavities. dry fit them as well
  • 30. Continue to dry fit for best results and remeasure dimensions while you can
  • 31. Next, use a 4”hole saw bit and install (2) 4”galv. vent with tabs for output and intake manifolds, at the top and bottom use metal tape if needed
  • 32. Using hole saw through the ¼” plywood may work better
  • 33. Here, insert the 4”vent, bend back tabs and screw down just long enough to grab backing material and not puncture through
  • 34. Next, use metal tape on all exposed foam board cuts, bending over edges for a finished look and good seal
  • 35. Here, use high heat silicon sealant for attaching foam board and seal all gaps for max ratings and performance
  • 36. We installed two 4”outdoor hinges to the top of the backing so that this Solar Heater attaches to a Southern facing wall
  • 37. Finally, it is coming together and all insulation is now taped and ready for aluminum flashing manifold covers
  • 38. Cut Manifold covers to proper size using a utility knife and straight edge of wood to score and bend free
  • 39. At the top of manifold a bowed piece of flashing is used to direct and channel heat out the top ductwork more effectively
  • 40. Here, use high heat spray to touch up any exposed areas
  • 41. Notice the screw holding the aluminum flashing arch with the 4” duct work for a secure fit and finish
  • 42. Apply high heat caulking along entire edge of manifold and use weight to create good seal with scrap wood to prevent scraping
  • 43. Carefully paint flashing, edging and trim off excess sealant which will be seen under the face material used
  • 44. The top manifold will get a fan and small hole for wiring to connect to a small solar panel
  • 45. Now your ready for measuring, cutting and sealing the bottom manifold before spray painting
  • 46. Here you may start solar panel and fan prep
  • 47. Be prepared to cut part of the wire and clips from fan and solar collector for your project
  • 48. Next prepare to measure and trim fan edges to fit inside 4” vent
  • 49. Notice the 4” circle made on the paper which will be used as a template to trim down the fan for a perfect fit
  • 50. Use a cutoff/grinding wheel or saw to trim the tough plastic corners
  • 51. Here you will remove connector clips from solar panel
  • 52. Next remove the molex connectors and yellow wire from your 80mm fan and strip back the red and black wires about 1”
  • 53. Attach connector clips to ends of wire for easy future removal if replacement of fan is needed
  • 54. Also place the fan into the top vent hole and feed both wires through small hole on vent housing. Be sure to point arrows on 80mm fan housing away from vent opening. Air flow must be directed out from the top exhaust vent
  • 55. Sign your project before the top face is finalized and sealed
  • 56. Here you may use aluminum stair edge for your exterior trim and finish as it will secure the face
  • 57. Be sure to seal all exposed areas
  • 58. We used ¾” wood screws
  • 59. Cut edging to size for your project
  • 60. Next caulk exterior edging with generous amount of sealant and place face on top, once cured, install trim and screw down
  • 61. Admire your efforts and reap the rewards from the sun forever.
  • 62.  
  • 63.
  • 64. Measuring results with a brand new digital thermostat and the sensor inserted inside top vent
  • 65. Notice the temperature of 149.3F and climbing
  • 66. Here it is up to 152.6 and climbing
  • 67. Notice the current air temperature is 94.3 F entering the bottom vent as well as the included packaging material for proof
  • 68. Finally notice the end result and vent temperature readings observed from the top exhaust vent, Wow…
  • 69. Temperature readings taken outside show 94.3 F,10mph breeze and slightly overcast w/sun shine were present. Using a brand new digital thermometer to measure the heat exiting top and bottom vents of this Solar Heater demonstrate temps of 154.5 degrees F and climbing while using 94.3 F entering bottom vent. This is a 60.2 degree increase in temperature using free heat folks. Where else can you produce this increase without fossil fuel help? In addition, if the fan did not come on the heat from the Solar Heater will continue to exit the top vent regardless. Should the fan fail you may replace it easily due to connectors and placement inside top vent inside building being heated if you choose. Blocking the bottom and top vents should prevent overheating your selected area during the summer months or hot days which may not require additional heating. You will reap the rewards of your efforts and design for years to come by capturing and channeling heat created from recycled cans and sun light. We hope this convinces you and the skeptics of any doubts that could prevent your solar heater project of becoming reality and successful. -Paul Cabral