Naples Lecture Explores Italian Fashion Colors

Naples 
Lecture by
Marianna
Carbone
Academy
of Fine
Arts,
Naples
carmardue@hotmail.it
«The Colors
of Italian
Fashion»
LMA Art
Academy of
Latvia
September
2013
Yesterday
http://www.accademiadinapoli.it/

Naples 
Postcards
from
Naples
Everytime

A history report…
Life in
Naples
…now

Contents
Where I come from?
• History and heritage in colors
• Inspiration and tradition
• The colors of the Fashion lords
The city I’ve lived
• Neaples Inspiration and tradition
• «Artifex» colors
Contemporary in colors
• Academy of fine arts Naples
• New style
• New talents for young students
Carbonem contents
2 minutes ago

Outline
Carbonem outline
The next two
hours

ItalyNow
Carbonem where I come from?

A history in colors
Leading blue!
Many years ago..
Why to make
an opera
when is so
nice to
dream only?
«Il Decameron»Film
by P.P. Pasolini,
1971
Giotto,
Cappella
degli
Scrovegni
Padova, 1303-
1305

A history in colors
Blue more golden age!
Many years ago..
Virgin
Enthroned with
Angels, detail,
Fogg Art
Museum,
Harvard.
Spinello
Aretino
Tempera and
gold leaf on
wood, c. 1380
Gold and blue
influence!

A history in colors
History and heritage in colors
Many years ago..
carbonemwhereIcome from?
Cappella
Sistina,
Michelangelo
Buonarroti
1508-1512
The color
of God!

Inspirations and
traditions
Craft and memory
Until now..
Lace, 16°
century, Italy
One of the
oldest art
related the
fashion in
Italy was the
art of lace,
born in Venice
in the 15°
century and
then quickly
spread around
the world.

Inspirations and
traditions
Until now..
Border,
Milan 2nd
half 17th
Century
The fashion
lace initially
concerned only
cuffs, then
was used for
collar borders
and was an
embellishment
of personal
and household
linen as well
as vestments
of the church
and veils for
brides.

Inspirations and
traditions
Until now..
Fitted border, Venice, mid-17th Century
The most famous place
for the lace is
Venice in particular
Burano (a beautiful
Island near Venice)
that is the oldest
center for
embroidered/needle
lace. The first
Burano lace trace
back to 1500. It was
created in the noble
house using a needle
and thread without
any canvas for
support. The subjects
were geometric
designs; flowers,
animals... This art
was really vivid
until the second half
of 20th century when
he women started very
early, since they
didn't attend school
and spent
all the time
with their
mothers who
taught them how
to do it.
At 12-13 years
they started to
go to school at
the Scuola dei
Merletti,
managed by nuns.
It was a
convenient place
to work, since
until 1950 most
of the houses
didn't have
neither heat nor
light, whereas
there they were
paid fort heir
job and they
also have light
and heat all
day..

Inspirations and
traditions
Until now..
Italy is a place
where tradition and
craftsmanship are
still sheltered and
nurtured, although
it's becoming more
and more difficult to
protect these
beautiful forms of
art (just like
filigree). One way to
keep them alive is to
embrace and remember
them.
Needlepoint
lace pattern
panel, Italy,
2nd half 17th
cent

Inspirations and traditions
The italian straw «strange» hat…
1928
The
traditional
art of working
with straw
found its
greatest
expression in
the area of
Signa from the
latter part of
the 19th
century up to
the present
day.
The
manufacture of
the world-
famous Leghorn
hat developed
in this
region.
One of the first
Italian fashion
products to be
exported was the
straw hat. The
processing of the
straw hat was an
old tradition
alive until today
where the
heritage of the
artisanal
tradition of
Florentine straw
hats is united to
the dynamism of
today’s
marketing.

The «straw» color
1760
The tradition of
artisanal art and
quality are the
most important
ingredients of
“made in
Italy”.
The opposite face
of the fashion
star system are
the million of
small company
that make good
quality product
and exported all
the world
laboriusly.

The «straw» color
1950
Typical straw
hat from
Florence in
1950s.
That’s
stunning!

The «straw» color
While we are
talking..
Until today survive
some art craft like
wickers production,
Though much of them
on the market today
come from the East,
the traditional
European craft
survives in pockets
of
the Mediterranean lik
ePortugal, Spain and
Italy. In Sicily in
particular wicker is
still crafted
according to the most
ancient of traditions
and is a real art.
Sicilian
Folk, Italian
traditions and
craftsmanship are
subjects close
to Domenico
Dolce and Stefano
Gabbana
The designers
explored many
Sicilian crafts
in the Spring
Summer
2013 runway
collection and
wicker formed a
true mouth
dropping sub
theme. Weaved
wicker reeds are
fashioned into
corsets, dresses
and even heels
of shoes, as a
visual and
fashionable
celebration of
those great
crafts from the
past that still
survive today.

The colors of the Fashion
Lords
Color contrasts
Once upon in a
time
understanding
of new
scientific
theories like
the theory of
color and
light, opens
to the daily
life and the
ephemeral.
“A painting
walks in the
crowd”
Fortunato
Depero, Gilet
futurista,
1930 ca
Futur-gilet!
Before the
fashion industry
the fashion met
the visual art.
This futuristic
gilet is an
espression of
creativity and
scientific
knowledgment at
that time. Here
the futuristic
energy of this
artistic period
is converted
into creative
joy that while
moving from a
deep

Lords
Color contrasts
Once upon in a
time
Unknown
author,
Parasol,
1920-1930
Simultaneous
colors for
modern design.
in the 20s
futurism
produces design
objects,
costumes,
textiles,
scenery,
overcoming
difference
between art,
fashion and
everyday life

Lords
Color contrasts
Once upon in a
time
Unknown
author,
Parasol,
1920-1930

Lords
Color contrasts
Some yars ago...
Giacomo
Balla, Model
of golf,
1930.
A painting to
wear...
Very interesting
is the
relationship
between the
Futuristic
painters, in
particularly
Giacomo Balla and
clothing. It’s a
sort of surprising
decoration with
vivid and
brilliant shapes
and colors to
create irruption
of vivacity in the
daily life rythm!

Lords
Color contrasts
Once upon in a
time
Giacomo
Balla, Woman
dress, 1930
Art/life/Art/
craft

Lords
Color contrasts
Once upon in a
time
Fortunato
Depero,
gilet, 1924

Lords
Color contrasts
Once upon in a
time
Painter,
sculptor,
designer,
creator of
famous
«coveralls»,
Ernesto Thayat
interpret the
spirit of the
decade working
in all forms of
art. Was
collaborator of
Madeleine
Vionnet since
1918.
E. Thayat,
Sketches for
M.Vionnet,
1921-1924

Lords
Color contrasts
Once upon in a
time
E. Thayat,
Sketches for
M.Vionnet,
1921-1924
Thayaht also
developed
numerous
patterns for
printing on
fabric that
Vionnet used for
her dresses, and
designed some
original models,
including
landscapes.

Lords
Color contrasts
Once upon in a
time
The visual
research around
Futurism and
Italian design of
20s and 30s in
Italy, has
certainly
influenced many
fashion designer
until today!
One of this is
Salvatore
Ferragamo, as we
can see in his
beautiful shoes
there are many
tribute s to the
colors research of
Futurism as well
as to the artists
of Bauhaus that
made possible the
union between
pragmatism and

Lords
Color contrasts
Once upon in a
time
Salvatore
Ferragamo,
Sandal,
1938-1940,
raffia, cork
wedge heel

Lords
Elsa: pink and more…
1890-1973
Italian fashion
designer, Elsa
Schiaparelli (1890-
1973), was one of the
most influential
creators of Parisian
haute couture in the
era between the two
World Wars. She was a
visionary and artist
in the fashion
industry, bringing
aShocking new style
to the dull and drab
knitwear age. She
worked with Dada and
Surrealist artists on
her fashion,
fragrance, and
advertisement designs.
Schiaparelli had
close relationships
with many artist in
the Parisian artistic
community, including
Man Ray Salvador
Dali, Jean Cocteau,
Alberto
Giacometti, and
Marcel Vertes.
Some of her most
important and
iconic pieces
were influenced
by or
collaborated on
with the famous
artists,
specifically
surrealists, of
her day
in 5 seasons in
1938 and 1939,
she presented
some of her most
memorable
thematic
collections:
the Circus,
Pagan, Zodiac,
Commedia
dell’arte, and
Music.

Lords
Commedia dell’arte collection
1939
Elsa
Schiaparelli's
Patchwork evening
jacket was
inspired by the
Harlequin pattern
used by
Surreallist artist
during this time
period, artist of
influence included
Pablo Picasso and
Man Ray. See Le
Beau Temps by Man
Ray. Polychrome
wool felt, blue
silk faille;
Commedia dell'Arte
collection;
embroidered by
Lesage.

Lords
Color and poetry
1937
Schiaparelli's
"Cocteau" Evening
Jacket, Fall 1937.
Created by Elsa
Schiaparelli and
artist Jean Cocteau.
Linen, metalic foil,
beads, paillettes;
embroidered by the
House of Lesage.

Lords
1937
Surrealist colors

Lords
1937
Shocking-pink dress
(fall 1937), silk-
velvet bolero with
metal embroidery by
Lesage (fall 1938),
and Starburst
earrings, c.mid-1930s
Shocking!

Lords
1939
Shocking!

Lords
1938
Circus collection
Jacket with
handmade
acrobat
buttons

Lords
1938
Circus collection

Lords
1914-1992
Vivid printsOn brief leave from
the Italian Air
Force, pilot Emilio
Pucci, the Marchese
di Barsento, is on
holiday in Zermatt,
Switzerland, when
ski costumes he
designed for himself
and a girlfriend—a
chic hooded parka
and streamlined
pants—catch the eye
of fashion
photographer Toni
Frissell. She snaps
his designs and
encourages him to
work on more.
(“When one skis, it
is not necessary to
look a mess,” he
will later say.
“The skis are
waxed, and it is
just as important
that one’s gloves
are as perfect.”
On leave in
Capri, Pucci
designs
bright,
breezy
dresses for a
female
friend. Capri
pants are
born.
His colorful
wear
mirroring the
mediterranean
surrounding
Landscape of
bougainvillea
and blue sea.

Lords
1968
«Prince of prints»
“True elegance
is freedom of
expression”
Emilio Pucci
In the
sixties, Pucci
created prints
more and more
lively, with a
kaleidoscope
as a guide to
color his Op-
Art
arabesques,
filigree, and
mosaic
patterns in
Art Nouveau
stylized and
geometric
patterns.

Lords
2009-2010
His brilliance
reminiscent of
art, landscape
and nature...

Lords
2009-2010
...And
ceramics.

Lords
60s

Lords
1932
«The last emperor»
“I know what
women want,”
“They want to
be
beautiful.”
Valentino
His dresses were
clean and
modern, yet
unabashedly
feminine—with
bows, flowers,
ruffles, lace,
embroideries—
always in the
finest fabrics,
always elegant.
In his first
collection,
there appeared
what would
become his
signature: a
dress the color
of poppies,
later known as
“Valentino
red.”

Lords
«The last emperor»
In July 2007,
Valentino celebrated
45 years of luxury
in high style. The
glitterati flocked
to Rome for a three-
day gala, during
which they were
treated to a
retrospective at the
ancient Ara Pacis,
dinner at the Temple
of Venus, an aerial
ballet, and a grand
ball at the Villa
Borghese. As
fireworks sparkled
overhead, it was
clear to all
assembled that
Valentino was a
living legend.
That fall, the
designer
announced his
retirement.
“As the
English say, I
would like to
leave the
party when it
is still
full.” The
following
January, he
walked his
last runway to
a standing
ovation.
2007

Lords
Rouge
2007
Although
Italian red
is very
popular in
many areas
the true red
is «valentino
red»

Lords
Valentino red and white
2013
All colors are
pure and
elegant.
Valentino
maison under
the new
creative
direction
continue to be
sophisticated
and glamour
but more cool,
modern and
contemporary!
Valentino
Couture,
S/S 2013

Lords
Valentino in red flowers
2013
Valentino
Couture,
S/S 2013

Lords
Not only red : architecture
black and white
2013
Valentino
Couture,
S/S 2013

Lords
Back to red
2013
Valentino
Couture,
S/S 2013

Lords
King Giorgio
1934

Lords
Greige by Giorgio Armani
80s
A major
contribution to
the success of
Italian designer
fashion during
the 80s decade
was provided by
Giorgio Armani
who fascinates as
much by his
timeless style as
by his excellent
business sense.
Armani’s
particular
design
trademark is
the classic
suit which has
been equally
influential on
menswear and
womenswear.It
became the
symbol of a
relaxed,
businesslike
appearance for
either sex

Lords
2012
Inspired by the
film in black and
white, and the
atmosphere of
America in the
twenties and
thirties, his
style chooses
shapes sharp and
clean tones and
cool colors:
beige, gray and
greige, a new
shade in the
balance between
the gray and
earthy sand
Armani’s
particular
production
ranges between
clothes of all
kinds.Changes
the design of
the jackets:
Deletes the
internal
supports
(padding and
interlinings),
are moved to
the buttons
and changed
the
traditional
proportions:
thus born the
unstructured
jackets,
absolute
emblem of his

Lords
2012
Another source of
great inspiration
for Armani is the
oriental culture
and Arabic. In
fact introduce
some of its
leaders korean
collars, and
coats similar to
djellaba

Lords
2012

The City I’ve lived
Neaples inspirations and traditions
carbonemcityI’velived
Many years ago..
Naples, The
maiolica
Cloister of
Santa Chiara,
1739
Brilliant pop-
colors!
There is an
incredible
cloister in
one of the
hundred
churches in
Naples
that’s a
sample of
collection
of brilliant
and fresh
colors. The
scenes are
about
allegories
and daily
life.

Neaples inspirations and
traditions
Many years ago..
Naples, The
maiolica
Cloister of
Santa Chiara,
1739
Brilliant pop-
colors

Neaples inspirations
Many years ago..
Pompei, Villa
dei Misteri,
fresco I century
b.C.

Neaples inspirations
Many years ago..
Artistic and
cultural
tangible assets
of Umanity...
Pompei, Villa
dei Misteri,
fresco I century
b.C.
«Rosso
Pompeiano»
One of the
famous color
in the world
is rosso
pompeiano.
Pompei was
discovered
in 18°
century and
his frescos,
his history,
his heritage
were really
impressive!

traditions
Until now..
Geography of
blue: Antwerp
blue, Prussian
Blue, oltremare
blue, cobalt,
manganese,
turquoise and
finally, the
most mysterious:
«vietrese
blue»..
Ceramics,
Vietri sul
mare (Sa)
Italy

traditions
Until now..
The cultural
history of a
city is a sum of
many stories,
experiences,
persons and
traditions.
It’s also the
expression of
past and future.
Among various
arts the
Vietrese ceramic
is a tangible
asset of
cultural
expression and
renovation of a
city!
Ceramics,
Vietri sul
mare (Sa)
Italy

traditions
Until now..
Ceramics,
Vietri sul
mare (Sa)
Italy

A history in colors
Until now..

traditions
Until now..
The city of «guarattelle»
The word
«Guarattella» is
the dialect
version of italian
word «puppet».
This tradition is
alive since 1500
in south of Italy
where in a tipical
street theatre
were represented
fantastic stories
about Pulcinella
and other italian
traditional masks.
The
guarattella is
worn on the
hand of the
man who drives
the puppet
telling
stories about
wizards,
devils, death
and popular
tales.

traditions
Until now..
"From the 15th
century, the
puppeteers
Neapolitan
traveled far and
wide. Often along
with other street
artists (actors,
buskers,
charlatans,
mountebanks) the
puppeteers turned
from one city to
another, from one
country to
another, in the
wake of fairs and
markets, doing
know and
appreciate
their art not
only along
the borders
of the
Italian
territory,
but in the
whole of
Europe and
beyond.
So they
exported the
Italian
Renaissance,
and the
puppet
theater.

traditions
Until now..
«Pulcinella and
death»
Known in England
as Punch, in Spain
as don Cristobal,
in Holland as
Pekilaring, in
Russia as
Petruska.

traditions
Until now..
The plays of
guarattelle
consists in some
fights between
Pulcinella an
other supernatural
personages (as
Death or Devil) or
deputies of high
society (as
Doctor, Judge,
priest, Policeman,
Boia) hardly ever
Pulcinella loose
the game and at
the end of story
he plays with
beaten corpses.
These stories
are symbols of
ancestral
dynamism and
vitality . The
sentiment that
tell are the
sentiment of
universe.

Artifex colors
1950
Thanks to the
tailors tradition in
Naples, south of
Italy, there are
many example of
succesful stories as
“Marinella ties
company”. The shop,
founded by Don
Eugenio in 1914
soon becomes a small
precious casket in
which authentic
treasures of
refinement and taste
can be found, a
small corner of
England in Naples.
In a time when
the English
style is a lot
in fashion,
Marinella is the
only one to
propose, in
Naples, a vast
range of
exclusive
products coming
from London,
exacting the
sole right from
the English
suppliers
Marinella, Napoli

Artifex colors
1950
The passion for the
elegance and the
quality still today
goes on, thanks to
Maurizio Marinella,
third generation of
the family, that has
picked up the
inheritance of the
mark with an
entrepreneurial
spirit in agreement
with the modern laws
of the marketing,
succeeding in making
the mark E.
Marinella be
affirmed also
abroad, from the
United States to
Japan.
The production
signed
E.Marinella has
preserved the
scrupulous
attention to the
quality of the
raw materials
and the cared
manifacture,
still today
rigorously
handicraft , for
these "veracious
Neapolitan" and
at the same time
"very british"
ties.
Marinella, Napoli

Artifex colors
1923
Unlike other
cities, the
historic center
of Naples has
kept alive a
craft : The
making of
leather gloves.
This took
advantage of the
presence of a
strong regional
industry of
tanning and
dyeing (called
University of
leather), has
meant that
Naples is called
the "World
Capital of the
glove," before,
to date, still
holds.
Known since the
eighteenth
century, this
production
really took off
beginning of the
next century.
The presence of
the Bourbon
court in the
capital of
Kingdom of Two
Sicilies has
contributed
significantly to
the worldwide
development of
this product
already known
for its beauty
and quality.
Omega, Napoli

Artifex colors
1923
Omega was
founded in 1923.
At fourth
generation the
company still
manages to
create through
the
gloves selection
of the best
skins "full
bloom" dyes by
Immersion (not
covered/
patent) cut by
hand for better
fit and
lined silk or
cashmere gloves
(100%) of
superior
quality. There
is a great
synergy between
experience
and technique.
A couple
of gloves,
manufactured in
traditional way
is the subject
of 25 tasks
ranging from
cutting to
finishing. These
steps, all done
by hand
categorically,
are mostly made
at home or in
homes.
Omega, Napoli

Contemporary in colors
carbonemcontemporaryincolors
2013
Academy of Fine
arts in Naples,
Italy. 1752-2013
Academy of Fine Arts,
Naples

Academy of Fine Arts, Naples
2013
Students of Fashion Design
Students
project
work.
Fashion
Photography

New talents for young
students
2013
Students
project
work.
Fashion
design
Circus
Collection
By Viola
Russo

students
2013
Students
project
work.
Fashion
design
Presentatio
n of 90s
collection
By Claudia
Piroscafo
Cazzato

students
2013
Students
project
work.
Fashion
design
Presentatio
n of
Baroque
collection
By Elena Soria

students
2013
Students
project
work.
Fashion
design
Presentatio
n of
Minimalism
collection
By Irene
Scarpato

students
2013
Students
project
work.
Fashion
design
Presentatio
n of
Hokusai
collection
By Annamaria
Ruocco

students
2013
Students
project
work.
Fashion
design
Accessorie
s
collection
By Carmine
Dell’Anno

students
2013
The colors
of student
are...

New style and new models
2013
...new colors
sustainability...
well doing…
The only color
that can
inspire today
is the natural
color or the
color of
sustainability
! We have new
model to
follow as
recycle,
reuse,
redesign,
sustainable
fabrications,
diversion of
waste
materials from
landfill, fair
...fair trade
label
These are
the color of
new
generation
of fashion
designer but
not about
boring beige
T-shirts or
scratchy,
drawstring
pajama-style
pants, but
fun,
playful,
ethereal,
cerebral,
intelligent
design

New style and new models
2013
...new colors
Formafantasma http://www.formafantasma.comOne of the
strongest trends
for designers is
the expression of
ecological, social
and community
consciousness
through for-profit
fashion design
corporations, which
most recently have
moved upscale from
organic cotton T-
shirts and hippy-
ish drawstring
pants to high
fashion. There is
now a wide range of
companies offering
well designed
merchandise, from
one-off art,
Yoj
http://www.fashionyoj.com
recycled and
redesigned
clothing,
organic and
sustainable
textiles and
garment
production, to a
range of
community and
indigenous
support
cooperatives
bridging the gap
between
traditional
craft and high
fashion.
The company in
this slide are
some sample of
design and
fashion
suistainable.

Brief to remember…
2013

Acknowledgments
Thank you to:
Carmine Dell’Anno
Melania De Rosa
Zaira de Vincentiis
Claudia Piroscafo Cazzato
Marinella
Arianna Razzano
Toty Ruggieri
Roberta Ruggiero
Annamaria Ruocco
Viola Russo
Mariangela Salvati
Irene Scarpato
Elena Soria
Mauro Squillace

Naples Lecture Explores Italian Fashion Colors

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