1. Cosmetology
and Nails
Reviewed by
Hala Aly Ibrahim
Lecturer Of Dermatology & Venereology

2. Healthy Nails
Anatomy & Physiology

3. Nail Histology

4. Nail Plate Growth
 Complete growth for the nail plate to replace
itself from the time it is formed at the root
until it reaches beyond the finger tip needs 57 months.

5. Nail Regeneration
If:
 Nail plate is injured & falls off→ replaced at
normal growth rate.
 Nail matrix is destroyed→ nail plate won’t
grow.
 Nail matrix is damaged →distorted newly
growing nail plate.

6. I - Factors Determining Nail Beauty
a.
b.
c.
d.
The Shape of the Nail
Nail texture
Nail Colour
Periungual tissue

7. a. The Shape of the Nail

8. b. The texture of the nail

9. c. Nail Colour

10. Causes of nail discoloration




External factors.
Degenerative changes.
Drugs.
Systemic diseases.

11. d. Periungual Tissue

12. a. General health care
measures
 Chemicals & repeated wetting & drying
should be avoided
 Cutting the nails [(wet) - magic ratio]
 Shaping the nails (dry)
 Splits and cracks & hang nails
 Nail health supplements

13. b. Nail Care Items
Instruments
i. Instruments:
 Tools
 Sanitary practice:
 Sanitation
 Disinfection
 Sterilization
Cosmetics

14. ii. Nail Cosmetics:
 Nail Cosmetic Products






Nail polishes
Polish removers
Basecoats & topcoats
Nail Hardeners
Conditioners & Buffering creams
Cuticle remover
 Artificial nails

15. Artificial Nails
 These are used as a substitute for nails in
individuals desiring long attractive nails, but whose
own nails are abnormal in appearance or break
easily.
 Types:




Sculptured
Preformed
Nail mending or wrapping kits
Gel Systems

16. Sculptured Artificial Nails
 Replace deteriorated nail plate
 Lengthen & decorate normal nail plate
 The polymer is clear so can be used for men

17. Preformed Plastic
Nails




Used as full nails or tips
Fixed with adhesives e.g. cyanoacrylate
Need some normal nail for attachment
Don’t leave for more than 2 days at a time

18. Nail Mending or Wrapping Kits
Act as a splint for a partially fractured nail plate

19. Gel Nails
 Acrylic-based material used as caps over
natural nails of persons having trouble
growing their own nails (chipping, cracking &
peeling) e.g. nail biters

20. Adverse Effects of Nail Cosmetic
Procedures
a. Nail instrument damage:
 Misuse of nail instruments is
potentially far more damaging to
the nail than are many cosmetic
preparations. Traumatic injuries
may cause not only infection but
also
chipping,
splitting,
breaking, onycholysis and even
Beau’s lines

21. b. Reactions to cosmetics applied to the nails:
 Nail polish:
 Nail polish dermatitis: Dermatitis of allergic origin can appear
in any part of the body accesible to the nails, but usually with
no signs in the nail apparatus except for the periungual area
in some cases.

22. Diagnostic skin patch testing with a battery of nail
enamel components should be performed without
occlusive covering, or with dry enamel film to avoid
false positive reactions from the solvents.

23. Nail plate staining:
Deeper shades of red and
brown nail enamel may
cause mild staining of nail
keratin. This is self-limiting
as
new
nail
growth
appears. The stain can be
avoided by using a
basecoat.

24. Granulation of nail keratin
In persons who apply fresh
coats of enamel on top of old
ones for several weeks. It
results
in
superficial
NP
friability. It may be avoided by
keeping the nail free of
cosmetic agents for a few days.

25. Onycholysis
Nail enamel and related
products reduce but do not
eliminate vapour exchange
from nail bed to the
environment
rarely
causing onycholysis.

26.  Nail polish removers:
 Acetone, ethylacetate or similar organic solvents
dehydrate the NP and decrease corneocyte
adhesion, contributing to brittleness. They also
remove lipids from the NP & cause inflammation
of the paronychial area. Rarely, irritant and
allergic contact dermatitis, blistering and
onycholysis may occur.

27.  Artificial Nails:
 Spontaneous separation of the
natural NP from its bed
 Peeling
and
transverse
splitting of the nail
 Contact dermatitis resulting in
onycholysis and subungual
hyperkeratosis
 May
potentiate
infectious
complications

28. Summary
 The art of nail care is a common demand
among most health oriented individuals.
 It is a mistake for the physician to view a
patient’s complaint of unattractive nails as
too trivial for medical consideration.
 The proper understanding of nail anatomy &
physiology is a baseline request.

29.  In addition, a sound insight
on conventional nail care
procedures as well as nail
care products will help to
overcome any unappealing
cosmetic defect.

30.  Dystrophic, absent or diseased nails
(particularly were only few are involved, can
be improved cosmetically with nail care
regimen, added colors or artificial nails.
 Dermatologists are well advised to recognize
such means for achieving a psychologic lift in
their patients.

31.  Factors causing cosmetic nail derangement
 Developmental and hereditary nail disorders
 Physical or chemical trauma
 Diseases
 Systemic
 Cutaneous
 Psychological
 Tumours
 Medications
 Topical
 Systemic

32. Infection of nail unit
1.Nail fold (paronychia):
 Acute:
Bacterial : (staph),
Viral: herpetic whitlow honey-comb)
 Chronic:
(Candida with superadded bacteria)
 2.nail plate (onychia)

33. Tumours
 Benign:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Warts.
Myxoid cyst (synovial ).
Subungual exostosis.
Nevus Junctional N. in matrix….band).
Pyogenic granuloma.
Fibromata (tuberous sclerosis).
Glomus tumour

34. Malignant
 SCC
 Malignant melanoma
usually follows pigmented nail band.
 Lymphoma