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HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA WINE
IN 6 GLASSES
Michael Wangbickler
• Michael Wangbickler
– Certified Wine Educator (CWE)
– Certified WSET Educator
– CIA Adjunct Instructor
– CEO, Balzac Communications
– President, Drink Local Wine
ABOUT ME
LEARNING OUTCOMES
• Garner an overview of California wine and its place in
history
• Understand how historical events have shaped the
California wine business
• Gain knowledge of significant individuals and
wineries and their impact on California wine
DISCLAIMER
• I have one client in this group of wines
• I am not affiliated with any of the others
• I am not the winemaker, so you can’t hurt my
feelings
• I chose these wines as a good way to experience the
history of California.
• We’re only going to scratch the surface
IT’S NOT ALL ABOUT NAPA
IN THE BEGINNING
• During the late 18th Century, Spanish Franciscan Friar
Junípero Serra Ferrer helped establish a series of
missions from Dan Diego to Sonoma.
THE MISSION TRAIL
• Evidence of vineyards at
nearly every mission
• The “Mission” grape
dominates for nearly a
century.
• Father Jose Altamira
plants first vines in
Sonoma at Mission San
Francisco Solano in
1823
IT REALLY BEGAN IN SOCAL
• Jean-Louis Vignes imports
first non-mission, vitis
vinifera to California in
1830 and plants in Los
Angeles.
• William Wolfskill
purchased his first
vineyard in 1838 in the LA
area. By 1858 he owned
55,000 vines across 145
acres.
• These two attracted
others to the area.
BUT NORCAL WASN’T FAR BEHIND
• George Calvert Yount
was first to plant wine
grapes in Napa in 1839.
• In 1840, Robert
Livermore plants first
wine grapes in
Livermore Valley
ON ITS WAY TO STATEHOOD
• Bear Flag Revolt takes
place in Sonoma in
1846
• Mexican-American War
(1846-48)
• Annexed from Mexico
in 1848 for $18 Million
• California officially
becomes a state in
September 1850
GOLD!
• Gold is discovered in
the Sierras in 1848
• Discovery precedes
annexation by about a
month.
• An influx of “49ers”
sees population explode
• A thirsty bunch
A COMMERCIAL PROPOSITION
• John Patchett plants the
first commercial vineyard
in Napa Valley in 1854.
• Cyrus Alexander plants
grapes in northern
Sonoma County in 1856.
• Agoston Haraszthy founds
first commercial winery in
Sonoma in 1857.
• Charles Krug establishes
winery in 1861 in Napa.
EARLY PLAYERS
• In 1876, Giuseppe and
Pietro Simi began making
wine in San Francisco.
• Korbel Bros. build a
winery in western
Sonoma County in 1882.
• Carl H. Wente and James
Concannon start first
wineries in Livermore in
1883.
EARLY TRIALS
• Phylloxera strikes in the
1870s, devastating many
vineyards.
• Earthquake of 1906
• In 1919 the 18th
Amendment launches
Prohibition, effectively
ending commercial wine
production.
• Hundreds of wineries
close their doors.
THE STRUGGLE TO BEGIN AGAIN
• The 21st Amendment
ends the “great
experiment” in 1933.
• But world conflict
makes it difficult to
grow.
• In the 1950s and 1960s,
American’s developed a
taste for wine and the
modern era bloomed.
CREAM SHERRY
• Representative of early
California wine style
• Much like “Angelica” of
the past
• 181 Cases produced
• $50
THE FATHER OF CALIFORNIA WINE
• Agoston Haraszthy,
“The Count of Buena
Vista,” and “Father of
California Wine,” comes
on the scene in 1840
• He was a real character,
but also a visionary
VINES IN SAN FRANCISCO?
• In the early 1850s,
Haraszthy established a
vineyard in San
Francisco to satisfy local
demand for alcohol.
• It was not a success.
• He finds his way to
Sonoma, establishing
Buena Vista in 1857.
ABOUT THE VINES
• Pens “Report on Grapes
and Wine of California”
in 1858.
• Plants more than 250
acres of vines in 1860 at
Buena Vista.
• Brings back over
100,000 cuttings of 350
varieties from Europe’s
finest vineyards in 1861.
VINICULTURAL SOCIETY
• The Buena Vista
Vinicultural Society,
dedicated to expanding
and modernizing
winemaking, is
established at Buena
Vista in 1863.
• One of the first
ventures of its kind.
DIGGING DEEP
• Haraszthy has
California’s first wine
caves completed at
Buena Vista in 1864.
• Buena Vista continues
to grow to 2 Million
gallons.
• In 1866, Haraszthy was
forced to resign from
his position at the
winery.
EATEN BY AN ALLIGATOR
• Haraszthy disappears in
a Nicaraguan, Alligator-
infested swamp.
• His body is never found.
• But the winery would
continue to grow and
prosper until
succumbing to financial
pressures in 1878.
KORBEL NATURAL
• Representative of
California Sparkling
wines
• Varieties: 65% Pinot
Noir, 35% Chardonnay
• 43,000 Cases
• $13.99
F. KORBEL & BROS.
• Mid-1800s
• Francis, Anton and Joseph
Korbel emigrated from
Czechoslovakia to the
United States
• F. Korbel & Bros. began as
a manufacturing business
in San Francisco that
produced materials for
the building industry
THE DRAW OF WINE
• In 1882, they began
making wine in Russian
River Valley.
• So well received, that two
years later, they
converted all of their
ranch lands to vineyards.
• By the mid-1890s the
Korbels shipped their first
California “champagnes”
THE DARK AGES
• Prohibition in the 1920s
forced the family to rely
on their other business
interests
• All three brothers
passed before repeal in
1933
THE NEXT CHAPTER
• 1930s-1950s – The Korbel
children carried on the
legacy
• 1954 – The winery is sold
to Adolf Heck who brings
a new spirit and updated
production
• Adolf set out to pioneer
what he described as
"California-style"
champagnes.
INNOVATIONS
• In 1966, Adolf invented
and patented the first
automatic riddling
machine.
• Taking advantage of
Sonoma County's ability
to produce high-quality
pinot noir and
chardonnay grapes, he
made world-class
“champagne”.
NTH DEGREE CHARDONNAY
• Winemaking taken to
the “Nth Degree”
• Livermore Valley
Appellation
• 23 Barrels produced
• $80
WENTE VINEYARDS
• Carl H. Wente, a
German immigrant,
purchases 47 acres of
vineyard land in the
Livermore Valley and
builds a winery in 1883.
SURVIVING PROHIBITION
• Sold grapes to home
winemakers,
sacramental wines to
the church, raised
cattle, hogs, sheep and
grew barley and red oat
hay.
THE WENTE CLONE
• In 1912, Ernest Wente
convinces his father to
import cuttings from
University of Montpellier
in France and
experiments with
budwood from Gier
Vineyard in early 20th
Century.
• Today, majority of
Chardonnay planted in CA
derives from Wente
Clones.
POST-PROHIBITION SUCCESS
• After 1933, Wente and Paul
Masson are the only two
with Chardonnay available.
• Wente produces and
releases the nation’s first
varietally labeled
Chardonnay, Sauvignon
Blanc and Semillon in 1936.
• Second generation
winegrower Herman Wente
helps found California’s
Wine Institute.
THIRD GENERATION
• Third generation
winegrower Karl L. Wente
joins the winery,
expanding national and
developing international
distribution.
• He becomes a tireless
spokesman for the
California wine industry,
and assists many fledgling
growers and vintners.
WENTE TODAY
• Still family owned
• Winemaking by 5th
Generation winegrower
Karl D. Wente
• Certified Sustainable
• 130 years old in 2013
GDL CABERNET SAUVIGNON
• Named for the winery’s
founder, it is their
premiere wine.
• 100% Cabernet
Sauvignon
• $135
BEAULIEU VINEYARD
• Started by Georges de
Latour in 1900 with 4
acres in Rutherford
• "beau lieu" means
"beautiful place."
• He purchased 128 more
acres (BV #1) in 1903.
• He imported Phylloxera-
resistant rootstock from
Europe to help California
Vineyards
DEVOTION PAYS OFF
• In 1908, BV signed a
contract with the
Catholic Church to
provide sacramental
wine.
• In 1910, GdL buys 146
acres (BV #2) from the
Church.
DRY TIMES
• BV survives prohibition with their contract to the
Church.
• Increases business fourfold
• GdL buys Fred Ewer winery in 1923. It would become
the core of the present winery.
ANDRE TCHELISTCHEFF
• In 1938, GdL travels to
France and hires enologist
Andre Tchelistcheff, who
brings European
winemaking expertise to
California.
• Cold fermentation, vineyard
frost protection, malolactic
fermentation
• The development of regions
in Carneros, Oregon and
Washington.
• He becomes a mentor to
many.
HEARTY BURGUNDY
• Their “original red
blend”
• Celebrating 50 years
• “Gallo Hearty Burgundy
is the best wine value in
the country today.” –
Robert Balzer
• Proprietary blend
• $6.99
E & J GALLO
• Ernest and Julio Gallo,
borrow capital from
Ernest's mother-in-law,
Teresa Franzia, and rent a
warehouse at 11th and D
streets in Modesto to
start a winery in 1933.
• By 1940, Ernest Gallo
begins to develop store
marketing strategies and
a sales force.
THE BEGINNINGS OF A POWERHOUSE
• The Gallo trademark is
registered in most
states by 1946.
• Gallo runs its first
television advertising in
the 1950s.
• Thunderbird is
introduced in 1957:
“What's the word? -
Thunderbird.”
BECOMING A LEADER
• Gallo becomes the
biggest-selling wine in the
United States for the first
time in 1960, a position it
cemented by 1966.
• Boone's Farm apple wine
is introduced in 1961.
• Hearty Burgundy is
introduced in 1964.
• Andre Cold Duck is
introduced 1967.
NATIONAL RECOGNITION
• Ernest and Julio appear
on the cover of Time
magazine with an article
titled "American Wine
Comes of Age“ in 1972
• Also in that year, Carlo
Rossi brand is taken
national
TASTE MAKERS OF A GENERATION
• E.&J. Brandy is released
nationally in 1977.
• The first vintage-dated
Gallo wine, a 1978
cabernet sauvignon, is
released in 1983.
• Bartles & Jaymes wine
coolers are released in
1984.
GALLO TODAY
• World's largest family-owned winery
• The largest exporter of California wine
• More than 70 brands, in 9 different countries
FUME BLANC RESERVE
• First to introduce
“Fume Blanc”
• To Kalon Vineyard
• 95% Sauvignon Blanc,
5% Semillon
• $50
ROBERT MONDAVI
• In 1943, Robert
Mondavi joined his
father Cesare and
brother Peter after the
family acquired Charles
Krug Winery.
• The winery grew in
sales and reputation
over the next two
decades, due in part to
Robert’s ambition.
CONFLICTS EMERGE
• Cesare died in 1959
leaving Rosa as
President with sons
Robert as General
Manager and Peter as
Vice President.
• In 1966, Robert moved
south to Oakville and
began construction of
his own winery.
GLOBAL AMBITIONS
• Robert Mondavi Winery
was the first major
winery built in Napa
Valley in the post-
Prohibition era.
• One of the first goals? –
recreate California
Sauvignon Blanc
PROPHET FOR CALIFORNIA WINE
• In 1968, Mondavi
releases his first Napa
Valley Cabernet
Sauvignon
• He begins a tireless
pursuit of excellence
and becomes an
evangelist for California
wines
A BEAUTIFUL FRIENDSHIP
• In 1970, Mondavi meets
Baron Philippe de
Rothschild
• Baron suggests the idea
of a joint venture
• This later becomes
Opus One in 1980.
THE BIRTH OF THE WINE AUCTION
• In 1981, Robert Mondavi’s vision of the Napa Valley
Wine Auction is launched by the Napa Valley
Vintners.
EDUCATING THE PUBLIC
• In 1988, Mondavi
launches the “Mission
Program” to educate
the public about wine
• Mondavi is recognized
by the CIA in 1991 and
an “Ambassador”
HISTORICAL SIGNIFICANCE
• Buena Vista – 100,000 cuttings, 350 varieties
• Korbel – Sparkling wine production
• Wente – Chardonnay clones
• Beaulieu – Modern winemaking / Mentor to all
• Gallo – Wine for the masses
• Mondavi – California wine as a quality product
TIMELINE
• 1857 - Buena Vista Winery
• 1882 - F. Korbel & Bros.
• 1883 - Wente Vineyards
• 1900 - Beaulieu Vineyard
• 1933 - E & J Gallo
• 1966 - Robert Mondavi Winery
Michael Wangbickler
Balzac Communications
www.balzac.com
mwangbickler@balzac.com
http://www.slideshare.com/mwangbickler
THANK YOU!

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History of California Wine in 6 Glasses

  • 1. HISTORY OF CALIFORNIA WINE IN 6 GLASSES Michael Wangbickler
  • 2. • Michael Wangbickler – Certified Wine Educator (CWE) – Certified WSET Educator – CIA Adjunct Instructor – CEO, Balzac Communications – President, Drink Local Wine ABOUT ME
  • 3. LEARNING OUTCOMES • Garner an overview of California wine and its place in history • Understand how historical events have shaped the California wine business • Gain knowledge of significant individuals and wineries and their impact on California wine
  • 4. DISCLAIMER • I have one client in this group of wines • I am not affiliated with any of the others • I am not the winemaker, so you can’t hurt my feelings • I chose these wines as a good way to experience the history of California. • We’re only going to scratch the surface
  • 5. IT’S NOT ALL ABOUT NAPA
  • 6. IN THE BEGINNING • During the late 18th Century, Spanish Franciscan Friar Junípero Serra Ferrer helped establish a series of missions from Dan Diego to Sonoma.
  • 7. THE MISSION TRAIL • Evidence of vineyards at nearly every mission • The “Mission” grape dominates for nearly a century. • Father Jose Altamira plants first vines in Sonoma at Mission San Francisco Solano in 1823
  • 8. IT REALLY BEGAN IN SOCAL • Jean-Louis Vignes imports first non-mission, vitis vinifera to California in 1830 and plants in Los Angeles. • William Wolfskill purchased his first vineyard in 1838 in the LA area. By 1858 he owned 55,000 vines across 145 acres. • These two attracted others to the area.
  • 9. BUT NORCAL WASN’T FAR BEHIND • George Calvert Yount was first to plant wine grapes in Napa in 1839. • In 1840, Robert Livermore plants first wine grapes in Livermore Valley
  • 10. ON ITS WAY TO STATEHOOD • Bear Flag Revolt takes place in Sonoma in 1846 • Mexican-American War (1846-48) • Annexed from Mexico in 1848 for $18 Million • California officially becomes a state in September 1850
  • 11. GOLD! • Gold is discovered in the Sierras in 1848 • Discovery precedes annexation by about a month. • An influx of “49ers” sees population explode • A thirsty bunch
  • 12. A COMMERCIAL PROPOSITION • John Patchett plants the first commercial vineyard in Napa Valley in 1854. • Cyrus Alexander plants grapes in northern Sonoma County in 1856. • Agoston Haraszthy founds first commercial winery in Sonoma in 1857. • Charles Krug establishes winery in 1861 in Napa.
  • 13. EARLY PLAYERS • In 1876, Giuseppe and Pietro Simi began making wine in San Francisco. • Korbel Bros. build a winery in western Sonoma County in 1882. • Carl H. Wente and James Concannon start first wineries in Livermore in 1883.
  • 14. EARLY TRIALS • Phylloxera strikes in the 1870s, devastating many vineyards. • Earthquake of 1906 • In 1919 the 18th Amendment launches Prohibition, effectively ending commercial wine production. • Hundreds of wineries close their doors.
  • 15. THE STRUGGLE TO BEGIN AGAIN • The 21st Amendment ends the “great experiment” in 1933. • But world conflict makes it difficult to grow. • In the 1950s and 1960s, American’s developed a taste for wine and the modern era bloomed.
  • 16. CREAM SHERRY • Representative of early California wine style • Much like “Angelica” of the past • 181 Cases produced • $50
  • 17. THE FATHER OF CALIFORNIA WINE • Agoston Haraszthy, “The Count of Buena Vista,” and “Father of California Wine,” comes on the scene in 1840 • He was a real character, but also a visionary
  • 18. VINES IN SAN FRANCISCO? • In the early 1850s, Haraszthy established a vineyard in San Francisco to satisfy local demand for alcohol. • It was not a success. • He finds his way to Sonoma, establishing Buena Vista in 1857.
  • 19. ABOUT THE VINES • Pens “Report on Grapes and Wine of California” in 1858. • Plants more than 250 acres of vines in 1860 at Buena Vista. • Brings back over 100,000 cuttings of 350 varieties from Europe’s finest vineyards in 1861.
  • 20. VINICULTURAL SOCIETY • The Buena Vista Vinicultural Society, dedicated to expanding and modernizing winemaking, is established at Buena Vista in 1863. • One of the first ventures of its kind.
  • 21. DIGGING DEEP • Haraszthy has California’s first wine caves completed at Buena Vista in 1864. • Buena Vista continues to grow to 2 Million gallons. • In 1866, Haraszthy was forced to resign from his position at the winery.
  • 22. EATEN BY AN ALLIGATOR • Haraszthy disappears in a Nicaraguan, Alligator- infested swamp. • His body is never found. • But the winery would continue to grow and prosper until succumbing to financial pressures in 1878.
  • 23. KORBEL NATURAL • Representative of California Sparkling wines • Varieties: 65% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay • 43,000 Cases • $13.99
  • 24. F. KORBEL & BROS. • Mid-1800s • Francis, Anton and Joseph Korbel emigrated from Czechoslovakia to the United States • F. Korbel & Bros. began as a manufacturing business in San Francisco that produced materials for the building industry
  • 25. THE DRAW OF WINE • In 1882, they began making wine in Russian River Valley. • So well received, that two years later, they converted all of their ranch lands to vineyards. • By the mid-1890s the Korbels shipped their first California “champagnes”
  • 26. THE DARK AGES • Prohibition in the 1920s forced the family to rely on their other business interests • All three brothers passed before repeal in 1933
  • 27. THE NEXT CHAPTER • 1930s-1950s – The Korbel children carried on the legacy • 1954 – The winery is sold to Adolf Heck who brings a new spirit and updated production • Adolf set out to pioneer what he described as "California-style" champagnes.
  • 28. INNOVATIONS • In 1966, Adolf invented and patented the first automatic riddling machine. • Taking advantage of Sonoma County's ability to produce high-quality pinot noir and chardonnay grapes, he made world-class “champagne”.
  • 29. NTH DEGREE CHARDONNAY • Winemaking taken to the “Nth Degree” • Livermore Valley Appellation • 23 Barrels produced • $80
  • 30. WENTE VINEYARDS • Carl H. Wente, a German immigrant, purchases 47 acres of vineyard land in the Livermore Valley and builds a winery in 1883.
  • 31. SURVIVING PROHIBITION • Sold grapes to home winemakers, sacramental wines to the church, raised cattle, hogs, sheep and grew barley and red oat hay.
  • 32. THE WENTE CLONE • In 1912, Ernest Wente convinces his father to import cuttings from University of Montpellier in France and experiments with budwood from Gier Vineyard in early 20th Century. • Today, majority of Chardonnay planted in CA derives from Wente Clones.
  • 33. POST-PROHIBITION SUCCESS • After 1933, Wente and Paul Masson are the only two with Chardonnay available. • Wente produces and releases the nation’s first varietally labeled Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon in 1936. • Second generation winegrower Herman Wente helps found California’s Wine Institute.
  • 34. THIRD GENERATION • Third generation winegrower Karl L. Wente joins the winery, expanding national and developing international distribution. • He becomes a tireless spokesman for the California wine industry, and assists many fledgling growers and vintners.
  • 35. WENTE TODAY • Still family owned • Winemaking by 5th Generation winegrower Karl D. Wente • Certified Sustainable • 130 years old in 2013
  • 36. GDL CABERNET SAUVIGNON • Named for the winery’s founder, it is their premiere wine. • 100% Cabernet Sauvignon • $135
  • 37. BEAULIEU VINEYARD • Started by Georges de Latour in 1900 with 4 acres in Rutherford • "beau lieu" means "beautiful place." • He purchased 128 more acres (BV #1) in 1903. • He imported Phylloxera- resistant rootstock from Europe to help California Vineyards
  • 38. DEVOTION PAYS OFF • In 1908, BV signed a contract with the Catholic Church to provide sacramental wine. • In 1910, GdL buys 146 acres (BV #2) from the Church.
  • 39. DRY TIMES • BV survives prohibition with their contract to the Church. • Increases business fourfold • GdL buys Fred Ewer winery in 1923. It would become the core of the present winery.
  • 40. ANDRE TCHELISTCHEFF • In 1938, GdL travels to France and hires enologist Andre Tchelistcheff, who brings European winemaking expertise to California. • Cold fermentation, vineyard frost protection, malolactic fermentation • The development of regions in Carneros, Oregon and Washington. • He becomes a mentor to many.
  • 41. HEARTY BURGUNDY • Their “original red blend” • Celebrating 50 years • “Gallo Hearty Burgundy is the best wine value in the country today.” – Robert Balzer • Proprietary blend • $6.99
  • 42. E & J GALLO • Ernest and Julio Gallo, borrow capital from Ernest's mother-in-law, Teresa Franzia, and rent a warehouse at 11th and D streets in Modesto to start a winery in 1933. • By 1940, Ernest Gallo begins to develop store marketing strategies and a sales force.
  • 43. THE BEGINNINGS OF A POWERHOUSE • The Gallo trademark is registered in most states by 1946. • Gallo runs its first television advertising in the 1950s. • Thunderbird is introduced in 1957: “What's the word? - Thunderbird.”
  • 44. BECOMING A LEADER • Gallo becomes the biggest-selling wine in the United States for the first time in 1960, a position it cemented by 1966. • Boone's Farm apple wine is introduced in 1961. • Hearty Burgundy is introduced in 1964. • Andre Cold Duck is introduced 1967.
  • 45. NATIONAL RECOGNITION • Ernest and Julio appear on the cover of Time magazine with an article titled "American Wine Comes of Age“ in 1972 • Also in that year, Carlo Rossi brand is taken national
  • 46. TASTE MAKERS OF A GENERATION • E.&J. Brandy is released nationally in 1977. • The first vintage-dated Gallo wine, a 1978 cabernet sauvignon, is released in 1983. • Bartles & Jaymes wine coolers are released in 1984.
  • 47. GALLO TODAY • World's largest family-owned winery • The largest exporter of California wine • More than 70 brands, in 9 different countries
  • 48. FUME BLANC RESERVE • First to introduce “Fume Blanc” • To Kalon Vineyard • 95% Sauvignon Blanc, 5% Semillon • $50
  • 49. ROBERT MONDAVI • In 1943, Robert Mondavi joined his father Cesare and brother Peter after the family acquired Charles Krug Winery. • The winery grew in sales and reputation over the next two decades, due in part to Robert’s ambition.
  • 50. CONFLICTS EMERGE • Cesare died in 1959 leaving Rosa as President with sons Robert as General Manager and Peter as Vice President. • In 1966, Robert moved south to Oakville and began construction of his own winery.
  • 51. GLOBAL AMBITIONS • Robert Mondavi Winery was the first major winery built in Napa Valley in the post- Prohibition era. • One of the first goals? – recreate California Sauvignon Blanc
  • 52. PROPHET FOR CALIFORNIA WINE • In 1968, Mondavi releases his first Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon • He begins a tireless pursuit of excellence and becomes an evangelist for California wines
  • 53. A BEAUTIFUL FRIENDSHIP • In 1970, Mondavi meets Baron Philippe de Rothschild • Baron suggests the idea of a joint venture • This later becomes Opus One in 1980.
  • 54. THE BIRTH OF THE WINE AUCTION • In 1981, Robert Mondavi’s vision of the Napa Valley Wine Auction is launched by the Napa Valley Vintners.
  • 55. EDUCATING THE PUBLIC • In 1988, Mondavi launches the “Mission Program” to educate the public about wine • Mondavi is recognized by the CIA in 1991 and an “Ambassador”
  • 56. HISTORICAL SIGNIFICANCE • Buena Vista – 100,000 cuttings, 350 varieties • Korbel – Sparkling wine production • Wente – Chardonnay clones • Beaulieu – Modern winemaking / Mentor to all • Gallo – Wine for the masses • Mondavi – California wine as a quality product
  • 57. TIMELINE • 1857 - Buena Vista Winery • 1882 - F. Korbel & Bros. • 1883 - Wente Vineyards • 1900 - Beaulieu Vineyard • 1933 - E & J Gallo • 1966 - Robert Mondavi Winery