The story of the California wine industry is replete with interesting characters, historical milestones, and wacky situations.
Indeed, the history of wine in California is tied to the history of modern California itself. It all began with the Spanish colonization of the area. During the 18th Century Spanish missionaries, led by Franciscan friar Junípero Serra Ferrer established a series of missions ranging from San Diego to Sonoma. And, of course, the one thing that is absolutely necessary for Catholic mass is nor a chapel or church, but WINE for the sacrament. It was the friar, monks, and their parishioners who first discovered that California provided ideal conditions for the making of good wine.
It wasn’t until the 19th century and immigration of other Europeans that California wine became a commercial proposition. The discovery of gold in 1848 in the Sierra Nevada Mountains brought an influx of fortune seekers from around the world. The discovery preceded the annexation of California from Mexico by only about a month, and the following year saw the population of the state explode. While a few made their fortunes, many did not. But, one fact was certainly true… they were a thirsty bunch.
It was a ready and open market for alcohol that spurred many of the early pioneers in the business to plant a few acres and start making wine for the “forty-niners” and others who followed in their wake.
While today, we tend to think of Napa Valley as the best that California has to offer, the early pioneers settled in other areas like Sonoma and Livermore. In 1882, three Czech brothers named Korbel built a winery in western Sonoma County and began making sparkling wine, one of the earliest wineries to do so. A year later in 1883, Carl Wente planted 43 acres in Livermore Valley and began a 130 legacy that is still owned and operated by the fourth and fifth generation Wente family. Their contributions to California wine include the Wente clone of Chardonnay, which is widely planted throughout the state and the backbone of many great wines from many producers.
Other’s followed and carried the industry into the 20th Century… Georges de Latour, Andre Tchelistcheff, Cesare, Peter, and Robert Mondavi, and Ernest and Julio Gallo are but a few of a long list of names of individuals whose vision, determination, and spunk have made California wine what it is today.
2. • Michael Wangbickler
– Certified Wine Educator (CWE)
– Certified WSET Educator
– CIA Adjunct Instructor
– CEO, Balzac Communications
– President, Drink Local Wine
ABOUT ME
3. LEARNING OUTCOMES
• Garner an overview of California wine and its place in
history
• Understand how historical events have shaped the
California wine business
• Gain knowledge of significant individuals and
wineries and their impact on California wine
4. DISCLAIMER
• I have one client in this group of wines
• I am not affiliated with any of the others
• I am not the winemaker, so you can’t hurt my
feelings
• I chose these wines as a good way to experience the
history of California.
• We’re only going to scratch the surface
6. IN THE BEGINNING
• During the late 18th Century, Spanish Franciscan Friar
Junípero Serra Ferrer helped establish a series of
missions from Dan Diego to Sonoma.
7. THE MISSION TRAIL
• Evidence of vineyards at
nearly every mission
• The “Mission” grape
dominates for nearly a
century.
• Father Jose Altamira
plants first vines in
Sonoma at Mission San
Francisco Solano in
1823
8. IT REALLY BEGAN IN SOCAL
• Jean-Louis Vignes imports
first non-mission, vitis
vinifera to California in
1830 and plants in Los
Angeles.
• William Wolfskill
purchased his first
vineyard in 1838 in the LA
area. By 1858 he owned
55,000 vines across 145
acres.
• These two attracted
others to the area.
9. BUT NORCAL WASN’T FAR BEHIND
• George Calvert Yount
was first to plant wine
grapes in Napa in 1839.
• In 1840, Robert
Livermore plants first
wine grapes in
Livermore Valley
10. ON ITS WAY TO STATEHOOD
• Bear Flag Revolt takes
place in Sonoma in
1846
• Mexican-American War
(1846-48)
• Annexed from Mexico
in 1848 for $18 Million
• California officially
becomes a state in
September 1850
11. GOLD!
• Gold is discovered in
the Sierras in 1848
• Discovery precedes
annexation by about a
month.
• An influx of “49ers”
sees population explode
• A thirsty bunch
12. A COMMERCIAL PROPOSITION
• John Patchett plants the
first commercial vineyard
in Napa Valley in 1854.
• Cyrus Alexander plants
grapes in northern
Sonoma County in 1856.
• Agoston Haraszthy founds
first commercial winery in
Sonoma in 1857.
• Charles Krug establishes
winery in 1861 in Napa.
13. EARLY PLAYERS
• In 1876, Giuseppe and
Pietro Simi began making
wine in San Francisco.
• Korbel Bros. build a
winery in western
Sonoma County in 1882.
• Carl H. Wente and James
Concannon start first
wineries in Livermore in
1883.
14. EARLY TRIALS
• Phylloxera strikes in the
1870s, devastating many
vineyards.
• Earthquake of 1906
• In 1919 the 18th
Amendment launches
Prohibition, effectively
ending commercial wine
production.
• Hundreds of wineries
close their doors.
15. THE STRUGGLE TO BEGIN AGAIN
• The 21st Amendment
ends the “great
experiment” in 1933.
• But world conflict
makes it difficult to
grow.
• In the 1950s and 1960s,
American’s developed a
taste for wine and the
modern era bloomed.
16. CREAM SHERRY
• Representative of early
California wine style
• Much like “Angelica” of
the past
• 181 Cases produced
• $50
17. THE FATHER OF CALIFORNIA WINE
• Agoston Haraszthy,
“The Count of Buena
Vista,” and “Father of
California Wine,” comes
on the scene in 1840
• He was a real character,
but also a visionary
18. VINES IN SAN FRANCISCO?
• In the early 1850s,
Haraszthy established a
vineyard in San
Francisco to satisfy local
demand for alcohol.
• It was not a success.
• He finds his way to
Sonoma, establishing
Buena Vista in 1857.
19. ABOUT THE VINES
• Pens “Report on Grapes
and Wine of California”
in 1858.
• Plants more than 250
acres of vines in 1860 at
Buena Vista.
• Brings back over
100,000 cuttings of 350
varieties from Europe’s
finest vineyards in 1861.
20. VINICULTURAL SOCIETY
• The Buena Vista
Vinicultural Society,
dedicated to expanding
and modernizing
winemaking, is
established at Buena
Vista in 1863.
• One of the first
ventures of its kind.
21. DIGGING DEEP
• Haraszthy has
California’s first wine
caves completed at
Buena Vista in 1864.
• Buena Vista continues
to grow to 2 Million
gallons.
• In 1866, Haraszthy was
forced to resign from
his position at the
winery.
22. EATEN BY AN ALLIGATOR
• Haraszthy disappears in
a Nicaraguan, Alligator-
infested swamp.
• His body is never found.
• But the winery would
continue to grow and
prosper until
succumbing to financial
pressures in 1878.
24. F. KORBEL & BROS.
• Mid-1800s
• Francis, Anton and Joseph
Korbel emigrated from
Czechoslovakia to the
United States
• F. Korbel & Bros. began as
a manufacturing business
in San Francisco that
produced materials for
the building industry
25. THE DRAW OF WINE
• In 1882, they began
making wine in Russian
River Valley.
• So well received, that two
years later, they
converted all of their
ranch lands to vineyards.
• By the mid-1890s the
Korbels shipped their first
California “champagnes”
26. THE DARK AGES
• Prohibition in the 1920s
forced the family to rely
on their other business
interests
• All three brothers
passed before repeal in
1933
27. THE NEXT CHAPTER
• 1930s-1950s – The Korbel
children carried on the
legacy
• 1954 – The winery is sold
to Adolf Heck who brings
a new spirit and updated
production
• Adolf set out to pioneer
what he described as
"California-style"
champagnes.
28. INNOVATIONS
• In 1966, Adolf invented
and patented the first
automatic riddling
machine.
• Taking advantage of
Sonoma County's ability
to produce high-quality
pinot noir and
chardonnay grapes, he
made world-class
“champagne”.
29. NTH DEGREE CHARDONNAY
• Winemaking taken to
the “Nth Degree”
• Livermore Valley
Appellation
• 23 Barrels produced
• $80
30. WENTE VINEYARDS
• Carl H. Wente, a
German immigrant,
purchases 47 acres of
vineyard land in the
Livermore Valley and
builds a winery in 1883.
31. SURVIVING PROHIBITION
• Sold grapes to home
winemakers,
sacramental wines to
the church, raised
cattle, hogs, sheep and
grew barley and red oat
hay.
32. THE WENTE CLONE
• In 1912, Ernest Wente
convinces his father to
import cuttings from
University of Montpellier
in France and
experiments with
budwood from Gier
Vineyard in early 20th
Century.
• Today, majority of
Chardonnay planted in CA
derives from Wente
Clones.
33. POST-PROHIBITION SUCCESS
• After 1933, Wente and Paul
Masson are the only two
with Chardonnay available.
• Wente produces and
releases the nation’s first
varietally labeled
Chardonnay, Sauvignon
Blanc and Semillon in 1936.
• Second generation
winegrower Herman Wente
helps found California’s
Wine Institute.
34. THIRD GENERATION
• Third generation
winegrower Karl L. Wente
joins the winery,
expanding national and
developing international
distribution.
• He becomes a tireless
spokesman for the
California wine industry,
and assists many fledgling
growers and vintners.
35. WENTE TODAY
• Still family owned
• Winemaking by 5th
Generation winegrower
Karl D. Wente
• Certified Sustainable
• 130 years old in 2013
36. GDL CABERNET SAUVIGNON
• Named for the winery’s
founder, it is their
premiere wine.
• 100% Cabernet
Sauvignon
• $135
37. BEAULIEU VINEYARD
• Started by Georges de
Latour in 1900 with 4
acres in Rutherford
• "beau lieu" means
"beautiful place."
• He purchased 128 more
acres (BV #1) in 1903.
• He imported Phylloxera-
resistant rootstock from
Europe to help California
Vineyards
38. DEVOTION PAYS OFF
• In 1908, BV signed a
contract with the
Catholic Church to
provide sacramental
wine.
• In 1910, GdL buys 146
acres (BV #2) from the
Church.
39. DRY TIMES
• BV survives prohibition with their contract to the
Church.
• Increases business fourfold
• GdL buys Fred Ewer winery in 1923. It would become
the core of the present winery.
40. ANDRE TCHELISTCHEFF
• In 1938, GdL travels to
France and hires enologist
Andre Tchelistcheff, who
brings European
winemaking expertise to
California.
• Cold fermentation, vineyard
frost protection, malolactic
fermentation
• The development of regions
in Carneros, Oregon and
Washington.
• He becomes a mentor to
many.
41. HEARTY BURGUNDY
• Their “original red
blend”
• Celebrating 50 years
• “Gallo Hearty Burgundy
is the best wine value in
the country today.” –
Robert Balzer
• Proprietary blend
• $6.99
42. E & J GALLO
• Ernest and Julio Gallo,
borrow capital from
Ernest's mother-in-law,
Teresa Franzia, and rent a
warehouse at 11th and D
streets in Modesto to
start a winery in 1933.
• By 1940, Ernest Gallo
begins to develop store
marketing strategies and
a sales force.
43. THE BEGINNINGS OF A POWERHOUSE
• The Gallo trademark is
registered in most
states by 1946.
• Gallo runs its first
television advertising in
the 1950s.
• Thunderbird is
introduced in 1957:
“What's the word? -
Thunderbird.”
44. BECOMING A LEADER
• Gallo becomes the
biggest-selling wine in the
United States for the first
time in 1960, a position it
cemented by 1966.
• Boone's Farm apple wine
is introduced in 1961.
• Hearty Burgundy is
introduced in 1964.
• Andre Cold Duck is
introduced 1967.
45. NATIONAL RECOGNITION
• Ernest and Julio appear
on the cover of Time
magazine with an article
titled "American Wine
Comes of Age“ in 1972
• Also in that year, Carlo
Rossi brand is taken
national
46. TASTE MAKERS OF A GENERATION
• E.&J. Brandy is released
nationally in 1977.
• The first vintage-dated
Gallo wine, a 1978
cabernet sauvignon, is
released in 1983.
• Bartles & Jaymes wine
coolers are released in
1984.
47. GALLO TODAY
• World's largest family-owned winery
• The largest exporter of California wine
• More than 70 brands, in 9 different countries
48. FUME BLANC RESERVE
• First to introduce
“Fume Blanc”
• To Kalon Vineyard
• 95% Sauvignon Blanc,
5% Semillon
• $50
49. ROBERT MONDAVI
• In 1943, Robert
Mondavi joined his
father Cesare and
brother Peter after the
family acquired Charles
Krug Winery.
• The winery grew in
sales and reputation
over the next two
decades, due in part to
Robert’s ambition.
50. CONFLICTS EMERGE
• Cesare died in 1959
leaving Rosa as
President with sons
Robert as General
Manager and Peter as
Vice President.
• In 1966, Robert moved
south to Oakville and
began construction of
his own winery.
51. GLOBAL AMBITIONS
• Robert Mondavi Winery
was the first major
winery built in Napa
Valley in the post-
Prohibition era.
• One of the first goals? –
recreate California
Sauvignon Blanc
52. PROPHET FOR CALIFORNIA WINE
• In 1968, Mondavi
releases his first Napa
Valley Cabernet
Sauvignon
• He begins a tireless
pursuit of excellence
and becomes an
evangelist for California
wines
53. A BEAUTIFUL FRIENDSHIP
• In 1970, Mondavi meets
Baron Philippe de
Rothschild
• Baron suggests the idea
of a joint venture
• This later becomes
Opus One in 1980.
54. THE BIRTH OF THE WINE AUCTION
• In 1981, Robert Mondavi’s vision of the Napa Valley
Wine Auction is launched by the Napa Valley
Vintners.
55. EDUCATING THE PUBLIC
• In 1988, Mondavi
launches the “Mission
Program” to educate
the public about wine
• Mondavi is recognized
by the CIA in 1991 and
an “Ambassador”
56. HISTORICAL SIGNIFICANCE
• Buena Vista – 100,000 cuttings, 350 varieties
• Korbel – Sparkling wine production
• Wente – Chardonnay clones
• Beaulieu – Modern winemaking / Mentor to all
• Gallo – Wine for the masses
• Mondavi – California wine as a quality product
57. TIMELINE
• 1857 - Buena Vista Winery
• 1882 - F. Korbel & Bros.
• 1883 - Wente Vineyards
• 1900 - Beaulieu Vineyard
• 1933 - E & J Gallo
• 1966 - Robert Mondavi Winery