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Ocean Waves and Tides
Waves

• A Wave is a rhythmic movement
  that carries energy through
  matter or space.
• In oceans, waves move through
  seawater
Waves

Caused by:
• Wind
• Earthquakes
• Gravitational force of the Moon
  and Sun.
Parts of a Wave

• Crest – highest point of a wave
• Trough – lowest point of a wave
• Wave Height – vertical distance
  between the crest and the trough
• Wavelength – horizontal distance
  between two crests or two troughs
Wavelength

                          Crest
                 Wave
                 Height

                          Still Water



                          Trough




Wave Parts
Wave Movement

• When a wave passes through the
 ocean, individual water molecules
 move up and down but they do
 not move forward or backward.
Wave Movement

• When a wave breaks against the
  shore, the crest outruns the
  trough and the crest collapses.
• Called a breaker.
• In this case, water does move
  forward and backward.
Waves Caused by Wind

• When wind blows across a body
  of water, friction causes the water
  to move along with the wind.
• Wave Height depends on –
  – Wind speed
  – Distance over which the wind blows
  – Length of time the wind blows
Tides

• The rise and fall in sea level is called
  a tide.
• Caused by a giant wave.
• One low-tide/high-tide cycle takes
  about 12 hrs and 25 min.
• Tidal range is the difference in ocean
  level between high-tide and low-tide
What is the Tidal Range?

• HT = 30 ft, LT = 20 ft
• HT = 20 ft, LT = 12 ft
• HT = 50 ft, LT = 20 ft
Gravitational Effect of the Moon

• Two big bulges of water form on
 the Earth:
  – one directly under the moon
  – another on the exact opposite side


• As the Earth spins, the bulges
 follow the moon.
Gravitational Effect of the Sun
• Spring Tides
  – Earth, Moon, and Sun are lined up
  – High Tides are higher and Low
    Tides are lower than normal
Gravitational Effect of the Sun

• Neap Tides
 – Earth, Moon, and Sun form right
   angles
 – High Tides are lower and Low Tides
   are higher than normal
The End

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Naturalists at Large: Marine waves tides

  • 2. Waves • A Wave is a rhythmic movement that carries energy through matter or space. • In oceans, waves move through seawater
  • 3.
  • 4. Waves Caused by: • Wind • Earthquakes • Gravitational force of the Moon and Sun.
  • 5. Parts of a Wave • Crest – highest point of a wave • Trough – lowest point of a wave • Wave Height – vertical distance between the crest and the trough • Wavelength – horizontal distance between two crests or two troughs
  • 6. Wavelength Crest Wave Height Still Water Trough Wave Parts
  • 7. Wave Movement • When a wave passes through the ocean, individual water molecules move up and down but they do not move forward or backward.
  • 8.
  • 9. Wave Movement • When a wave breaks against the shore, the crest outruns the trough and the crest collapses. • Called a breaker. • In this case, water does move forward and backward.
  • 10.
  • 11. Waves Caused by Wind • When wind blows across a body of water, friction causes the water to move along with the wind. • Wave Height depends on – – Wind speed – Distance over which the wind blows – Length of time the wind blows
  • 12.
  • 13.
  • 14.
  • 15. Tides • The rise and fall in sea level is called a tide. • Caused by a giant wave. • One low-tide/high-tide cycle takes about 12 hrs and 25 min. • Tidal range is the difference in ocean level between high-tide and low-tide
  • 16. What is the Tidal Range? • HT = 30 ft, LT = 20 ft • HT = 20 ft, LT = 12 ft • HT = 50 ft, LT = 20 ft
  • 17. Gravitational Effect of the Moon • Two big bulges of water form on the Earth: – one directly under the moon – another on the exact opposite side • As the Earth spins, the bulges follow the moon.
  • 18.
  • 19. Gravitational Effect of the Sun • Spring Tides – Earth, Moon, and Sun are lined up – High Tides are higher and Low Tides are lower than normal
  • 20.
  • 21. Gravitational Effect of the Sun • Neap Tides – Earth, Moon, and Sun form right angles – High Tides are lower and Low Tides are higher than normal
  • 22.