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Internationalization Strategy

Pallav Vikash Chatterjee
Benetton
• Incorporated: 1965 as Maglificio di Ponzano Veneto
  dei Fratelli Benetton, global luxury brand
• Owned by Benetton family – 67% stake through
  Edizione Srl (holding company)
• Based in Treviso, Italy
• Total turnover of € 2.33 billion
• 150 million garments sold every year, 6949
  employees, 6000 stores, 120 countries
Brands – Playlife, Sisley & United Colors of Benetton
Products
           Core Business Area


             Clothing
            • Menswear
            • Womenswear
            • Childrenswear
            • Underwear

             Others
            • Cosmetics
            • Perfumes
            • Toiletries
            • Merchandise
            • Watches
Brands
Internationalization Efforts
•   Within 3 years of incorporation entered France (1968 – 1972)
•   Expanded to pan-Europe (1980s)
•   Expansion of sales network and production in target countries
•   Successes in Japan, followed by entry in USA
•   Entry in Asia-Pacific, with entry in China & India (1990s)
•   Failure in USA – led to re-look at international strategy




                                                 Legal Issues
        Currency                                    with
      Fluctuations                               Franchisee
                                                   model
External Considerations
• Need of greater political sensitivity in dealing with
  governments of different countries

• Differences in franchisee laws, distribution environment
  across countries

• Consumption of clothing, fashion accessories & sportswear –
  function of disposable income levels – different macro factors
  across countries.

• Different social conditions, influence brand presence.

• Competitive contexts
Global Competitive Context
Brand                   Global Presence

Benetton                  120 Countries

Inditex                        45

H&M                            15

Mango                          70

GAP                             6

Espirit                        >40

Source – JP Morgan & OECD Retail Intelligence 2002- Verdict 2002 , OECD 2001 Morgan Stanley Research


        Key reason to internationalize – Matured Italian market, business growth through
                                       internationalization
Global Competitive Context




 Comparative Positioning – Fast Fashion Brands
Sources of Global Competitive
Advantage – Fast Fashion (Apparels)
Internal Considerations
Strengths                         Weaknesses
• Casual wear business            • Less profitable sports business
• 20% profits from casual wear    • High cash flow required in sports
  business                          business
• Efficient production process    • Comparatively lower
• Innovative manufacturing –        competitiveness in logistics with
  example delayed dyeing            pure retailers (those who don’t
• Company’s franchising network     manufacture but source and
                                    retail)
                                  • Lack of clear target audience – its
                                    neither into business wear nor
                                    into sports wear.
                                  • Lacks trendiness as desired by
                                    youth
Global Revenues
Year                    2010    2009    2008     2006       2007


Revenues                2,053   2,049   2,128    1,911      2,049
(million euro)

Net Income              102     122     155      125        145
(million euro)



       Sales by Brand                     Sales by Region
Global Capacities

       >40% production was based in Italy


  Large Capex Production Processes – (In-house)

Small Capex Production Processes – Outsourced to
            domestic small suppliers
  Fabrica – Global Communication Design Centre
                    (Marketing)
Benetton Global Production Evolution




• Benetton has unique – in-house manufacturing process unlike other retail players in
  fashion industry
• Production centres were distributed over a period of time to reduce lead times
 and increase speed to market which was a weakness previously due to in-house
 production
• Benetton engages in subcontracting for small capex manufacturing processes
Benetton Global Value Chain




 Just In Time & Heavy usage of IT (EDC) to integrate
        information to ensure responsiveness
SWOT Analysis
                                                                                                                       SWOT ANALYSIS
              Price                           Long Term
Brand         Positioning Major Competitors Growth Drivers                   Strengths                     Weaknesses            Opportunities              Threats
                                              Regaining momentum &                                    Lost momentum versus   Simple actions may     Management poor
UCB           Mid         Gap, Zara, Stefanel Market Share         Powerful Global Brand              competition            give good results      track record
                                                                   Strong Design, Good Quality
                          Max&Co., Versus                          at affordable price than           Almost unknown                                Significant investment
Sisley        Mid High    D&G, Canali         Expanding Abroad     designers                          abroad                 Regional expansion     necessary
                                                                                                                             Expansion
                                                                                                                             opportunities
                                               Distribution & Regional   Designed for an attractive                          in Italy and then      Volatility of teenagers
The Hip Site Mid          Fornarina, H&M       Expansion                 and important consumer       Start up brand         abroad                 purchases
                                                                                                                             Expected superior
                          Nike, Reebok,Sergio Distribution & Regional    Good retail network and                             growth for lifestyle
Playlife      Mid         Tachhani,Napapijhri Expansion                  investments already done     Unclear positioning    brands                 Tough Competition
                                                                                                                             Expected superior
                                               Distribution & Regional   Strong international                                growth for lifestyle
Killer Loop   Mid         Reef, Quicksilver    Expansion                 brand                        Lost heritage          brands                 Tough Competition




                                        Immediate Candidates of Internationalization
Core Competence
• Innovative operations management
• Network organization of manufacturing
• Network organization of distribution (agents)
  – each agent responsible for development of a
  given market area.
• Megastores – a unique franchising formula
Benetton Strategy
Spread of production – increase in global capacities
- Commissioning of production centres in India, China
- Commissioning of production centres in Eastern Europe
- Enhancing spread of production
- Sourcing from Asia , to reduce costs (44% sourcing of raw
  materials, fabrics etc , currently)
- Using local production bases in large markets (India for
  instance) for feeding domestic market , therefore increasing
  responsiveness
Benetton Strategy
Unique Flexible Sales Channel




    Region Specific Agents responsible for market
        development & Direct Sales Channel
Benetton Strategy
Unique Marketing Strategy
- Image Advertising , identification with global social causes
- Communication targeted at Corporate level, global message
  on causes – Racism, HIV, Food safety, Child Abuse etc.
- Main Brand communication focussed on creating uniqueness
  no other brand has (as the company website says)
Benetton Strategy
Adapting to Diverse Geographies through innovation
- Product Innovation (unique global products, same design,
  same apparel sold through similar store formats across globe)

- Process Innovation – delayed dyeing, postponement strategy
  to reduce lead times and costs

- Organizational Innovation – Divisional structure, Unique
  Agents model for managing retail franchise, Dual Supply Chain
  structure, Quasi Franchising system for retailers (License
  approach instead of Franchise – resulting lesser legal
  complications, quicker operations and better control)
Benetton Innovations




Integrated Supply Chain – using smart tools RFID , Central Intelligence Centre
Parallel -Sourcing & Designing Processes to reduce lead times across geographies
Risks With Globalization
- Competitive Pressures (Owing to high competition in
  apparels and fashion industry)
- Sales Network Buy-In, Due to high costs of incentives,
  network costs have gone up
- Performance in Emerging Markets - India & China
- Diverse Changes in Customer Spending Habits –
  Changes in business outlook, macro situations, etc
- Owned Expansion – High cost of assets due to in-house
  production and Benetton owned stores
- Foreign Exchange & Interest Rate Fluctuations – More
  rigid sourcing strategy due to fixed investments and less
  of subcontracting, there is high risk on profitability

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Benetton Internationalization Strategy 2

  • 2. Benetton • Incorporated: 1965 as Maglificio di Ponzano Veneto dei Fratelli Benetton, global luxury brand • Owned by Benetton family – 67% stake through Edizione Srl (holding company) • Based in Treviso, Italy • Total turnover of € 2.33 billion • 150 million garments sold every year, 6949 employees, 6000 stores, 120 countries Brands – Playlife, Sisley & United Colors of Benetton
  • 3. Products Core Business Area Clothing • Menswear • Womenswear • Childrenswear • Underwear Others • Cosmetics • Perfumes • Toiletries • Merchandise • Watches
  • 5. Internationalization Efforts • Within 3 years of incorporation entered France (1968 – 1972) • Expanded to pan-Europe (1980s) • Expansion of sales network and production in target countries • Successes in Japan, followed by entry in USA • Entry in Asia-Pacific, with entry in China & India (1990s) • Failure in USA – led to re-look at international strategy Legal Issues Currency with Fluctuations Franchisee model
  • 6. External Considerations • Need of greater political sensitivity in dealing with governments of different countries • Differences in franchisee laws, distribution environment across countries • Consumption of clothing, fashion accessories & sportswear – function of disposable income levels – different macro factors across countries. • Different social conditions, influence brand presence. • Competitive contexts
  • 7. Global Competitive Context Brand Global Presence Benetton 120 Countries Inditex 45 H&M 15 Mango 70 GAP 6 Espirit >40 Source – JP Morgan & OECD Retail Intelligence 2002- Verdict 2002 , OECD 2001 Morgan Stanley Research Key reason to internationalize – Matured Italian market, business growth through internationalization
  • 8. Global Competitive Context Comparative Positioning – Fast Fashion Brands
  • 9. Sources of Global Competitive Advantage – Fast Fashion (Apparels)
  • 10. Internal Considerations Strengths Weaknesses • Casual wear business • Less profitable sports business • 20% profits from casual wear • High cash flow required in sports business business • Efficient production process • Comparatively lower • Innovative manufacturing – competitiveness in logistics with example delayed dyeing pure retailers (those who don’t • Company’s franchising network manufacture but source and retail) • Lack of clear target audience – its neither into business wear nor into sports wear. • Lacks trendiness as desired by youth
  • 11. Global Revenues Year 2010 2009 2008 2006 2007 Revenues 2,053 2,049 2,128 1,911 2,049 (million euro) Net Income 102 122 155 125 145 (million euro) Sales by Brand Sales by Region
  • 12. Global Capacities >40% production was based in Italy Large Capex Production Processes – (In-house) Small Capex Production Processes – Outsourced to domestic small suppliers Fabrica – Global Communication Design Centre (Marketing)
  • 13. Benetton Global Production Evolution • Benetton has unique – in-house manufacturing process unlike other retail players in fashion industry • Production centres were distributed over a period of time to reduce lead times and increase speed to market which was a weakness previously due to in-house production • Benetton engages in subcontracting for small capex manufacturing processes
  • 14. Benetton Global Value Chain Just In Time & Heavy usage of IT (EDC) to integrate information to ensure responsiveness
  • 15. SWOT Analysis SWOT ANALYSIS Price Long Term Brand Positioning Major Competitors Growth Drivers Strengths Weaknesses Opportunities Threats Regaining momentum & Lost momentum versus Simple actions may Management poor UCB Mid Gap, Zara, Stefanel Market Share Powerful Global Brand competition give good results track record Strong Design, Good Quality Max&Co., Versus at affordable price than Almost unknown Significant investment Sisley Mid High D&G, Canali Expanding Abroad designers abroad Regional expansion necessary Expansion opportunities Distribution & Regional Designed for an attractive in Italy and then Volatility of teenagers The Hip Site Mid Fornarina, H&M Expansion and important consumer Start up brand abroad purchases Expected superior Nike, Reebok,Sergio Distribution & Regional Good retail network and growth for lifestyle Playlife Mid Tachhani,Napapijhri Expansion investments already done Unclear positioning brands Tough Competition Expected superior Distribution & Regional Strong international growth for lifestyle Killer Loop Mid Reef, Quicksilver Expansion brand Lost heritage brands Tough Competition Immediate Candidates of Internationalization
  • 16. Core Competence • Innovative operations management • Network organization of manufacturing • Network organization of distribution (agents) – each agent responsible for development of a given market area. • Megastores – a unique franchising formula
  • 17. Benetton Strategy Spread of production – increase in global capacities - Commissioning of production centres in India, China - Commissioning of production centres in Eastern Europe - Enhancing spread of production - Sourcing from Asia , to reduce costs (44% sourcing of raw materials, fabrics etc , currently) - Using local production bases in large markets (India for instance) for feeding domestic market , therefore increasing responsiveness
  • 18. Benetton Strategy Unique Flexible Sales Channel Region Specific Agents responsible for market development & Direct Sales Channel
  • 19. Benetton Strategy Unique Marketing Strategy - Image Advertising , identification with global social causes - Communication targeted at Corporate level, global message on causes – Racism, HIV, Food safety, Child Abuse etc. - Main Brand communication focussed on creating uniqueness no other brand has (as the company website says)
  • 20. Benetton Strategy Adapting to Diverse Geographies through innovation - Product Innovation (unique global products, same design, same apparel sold through similar store formats across globe) - Process Innovation – delayed dyeing, postponement strategy to reduce lead times and costs - Organizational Innovation – Divisional structure, Unique Agents model for managing retail franchise, Dual Supply Chain structure, Quasi Franchising system for retailers (License approach instead of Franchise – resulting lesser legal complications, quicker operations and better control)
  • 21. Benetton Innovations Integrated Supply Chain – using smart tools RFID , Central Intelligence Centre Parallel -Sourcing & Designing Processes to reduce lead times across geographies
  • 22. Risks With Globalization - Competitive Pressures (Owing to high competition in apparels and fashion industry) - Sales Network Buy-In, Due to high costs of incentives, network costs have gone up - Performance in Emerging Markets - India & China - Diverse Changes in Customer Spending Habits – Changes in business outlook, macro situations, etc - Owned Expansion – High cost of assets due to in-house production and Benetton owned stores - Foreign Exchange & Interest Rate Fluctuations – More rigid sourcing strategy due to fixed investments and less of subcontracting, there is high risk on profitability