New Foster Training Prepares You for Your New Foster Dog

Secondhand Hounds - New Foster Training

Welcome! 5 min

Introduction of Leaders at SHH & Roles of Key Volunteers at SHH 10 min

New Foster Training

•FOSTERING 60 min
•Foster Process
•What to Expect When you are Expecting – a new foster
•Preparation
•Intake
•First Day/Night

•ADOPTION 40 min
•Adoption Process
•Home Visit
•Follow Up Post Adoption
•Tips

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Introductions of SHH Leadership

SHH Director - Rachel Mairose

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Foster Coordinator – Small Dogs Foster Coordinator –
Intake Coordinator Sporting/Hounds/Scruffy/(P)Doodle
Anitra Francis Loryn Smith

Foster Coordinator – Bullies Foster Coordinator – Working/XL
Jacob West Kelly Ruddy

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Volunteer Manager – Vetting Manager –
Katherine Herman Lindsay Newcomb

Adoptions Manager – Adoptions Event Coordinator –
Emily Hawk Casey Quick

4


New Foster Coordinator – Fundraising Director –
Lori Green Elana Dahlberg

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Secondhand Hounds Mission

To help dogs that are suffering or neglected, by rescuing them from
unsuitable conditions, providing veterinary and foster care, and placing
them in qualified, responsible and caring adoptive homes.

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Secondhand Hounds – New Foster Training - Goal

The goal of this training is to help new fosters feel more prepared by
answering the most common new foster questions.

Content included in this training is based on research from the ASPCA,
behavioral and veterinarian experts.

Not every possible question will be included and not every scenario will be
covered in the answers.

If you have questions about how the questions and answers apply to your
home and your situation, we encourage you to reach out to the SHH triage
team and if needed, reach out to your foster coordinators.
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Secondhand Hounds – Disclaimers

Throughout this manual, the use of the word “Dog” and “animal” is in
reference to dogs of all ages, including puppies. Foster parents should
always consult with their foster coordinator for specific help and
assistance.

Any reference to him/her is not meant to be specific to gender, but to
be interchangeable and provide more context. All training is applicable
to both genders.

All information is subject to change and updates as we improve our
processes!

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Secondhand Hounds – Foster Training Goal

This training is designed to provide foster parents with an overview of
the Secondhand Hounds Foster Dog process. Along with the
information included in the foster dog packet, this manual is meant to
be a helpful resource for foster parents and should answer many
of the questions that may arise before and during foster care.

Throughout this manual, the use of the word “Dog” and “animal” is in
reference to dogs of all ages, including puppies. Foster parents should
always consult with their foster coordinator for specific help and
assistance.

Any reference to him/her is not meant to be specific to gender, but to
be interchangeable and provide more context. All training is applicable
to both genders.

All information is subject to change and updates as we improve our
processes! 9

What to Expect When You’re Expecting… A new foster

Thank you for considering the role of being a foster family! The choice
comes with many things to consider, but the rewards are immeasurable.

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Be mentally prepared

Fostering includes the whole family! Make sure that
everyone in your household is ready, willing and able to
provide a loving home for an orphaned dog.

It is not uncommon for people to have difficulty adjusting to
a new schedule or routine. It’s a also common for people to
have a difficult time “giving up” an animal to its adopting
home.

Its wise to have a discussion about both of these things
prior to committing to an animal.

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Be physically prepared Planning where your foster dog will be BEFORE
the animal arrives will make the transition easier
for everyone.

It’s a good idea to have a small room or space
dedicated to the animal:
•Keep it close so they get used to you
•Make sure you can easily be aware of
anything that is going on with animal while
in this space.
•This space will be important for you and the
animal while you are away.
•The animal will feel more safe and
comfortable
•You will feel more confident and their
safety and inability to be areas you
don’t want them unsupervised.
•This will help with housetraining animals as
well.

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Be physically prepared

Get creative on where this space is and how you set
it up:
•Baby gates are great for this – they are
customizable to help block off openings.

Its recommended that a crate is included in the
space.
•The animal has a small den-like space to go to.
•You have the crate accessible if you need to
crate the animal while away.

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Things to think about when choosing the space for your foster:
Walk into the room in which you plan to confine your foster dog, and ask yourself:
• Is there room for the crate (dog’s safe place)?
• Is there quick access to the outside for bathroom breaks?
• Is there anything that can be chewed, such as drapes, a couch or rugs?
• Are there exposed electrical wires?
• Is there anywhere the dog can hide? Will you be able to get the dog out if
hidden?
• Are there coffee tables with objects that can be knocked off by a wagging
tail?
• Are there plants in the room?
• Where will I set up the crate once all hazards are removed?
• Is the crate in a quiet, low‐traffic area of the room?
• Is there a blanket in the crate to train your foster dog that it’s his bed?

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What supplies do I need? Each foster parent has access to receive the following:

Food Bowls Leash

Collar Crate Toys

Blankets **Most things you need to foster your dogs.

If you prefer, its always an option for you to use your own supplies. Supplies
used for your foster dog are tax deductible.

If you are seeking reimbursement from SHH, please get approval for the
supplies you are purchasing. SHH most often can get them cheaper than you
can.

Get approval if you want reimbursement. Anything not reimbursed is still tax
deductible.

Plan ahead for the quantity of supplies you will need. Take into account if you
live a long distance from the office. SHH foster coordinators do not deliver
supplies.
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Am I putting my personal pets in danger by agreeing to foster?
Because our dogs come from shelter situations, they have unknown histories
and it’s quite possible they haven’t had their medical needs properly met.

They often have kennel cough (the equivalent of a human cold) and worms,
among other possibilities. Before we bring the dogs/puppies into a foster
situation, we de-worm them, vaccinate them, and Frontline them.

It is a requirement to have your dogs up to date on vaccines and Frontline
before you begin to foster.

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Where do the dogs come from? Our dogs are rescued from high kill shelters all around the
Midwest. We have contacts that regularly visit these facilities
and look for dogs that need our help. We have developed great
relationships with shelter workers who contact us when they
have dogs in danger of being euthanized.

SHH only takes out of state dogs after similar local dogs are
safe! We rarely take any bully breeds from out of state because
there are so many locals in need.

Almost all small dogs at Minneapolis animal control get
adopted within 2 days, or have multiple rescues lined up to take
them- they are very fortunate! Small dogs in Missouri can
spend months in a shelter only to “run out of time”.

We always help local first, and if we have
fosters available, then we expand our
boundaries!

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Can I choose what dog I want to foster?
You can give us criteria for what type of dog you want to foster. Based on this criteria, we will do our
best to match you with a perfect foster dog. If we have several dogs needing rescue, we may send
you pictures and descriptions of each. In this case, you can choose your exact foster dog from those
currently needing a foster home.

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What if I can no longer foster? Conflicts do occur. Whatever the conflict is, personal
or with the foster animal, SHH will do its best to help.

Contact your foster coordinator right away if an issue
surfaces.

We will try our best to identify another foster to take
the animal.

Do not drop the animal off at the office. Often times
no one is there or the space at the office is full.

Ask for help early – often times conflict that surfaces
can be addressed and the dogs can be trained to
behave differently.

What if I am planning a vacation? Communicate your plans at least two weeks in advance
to your foster coordinator and we will make
arrangements for a temporary or new foster home for
your foster dog.

The sooner your foster coordinator knows – the sooner
a temporary foster family can be identified during your
absence.
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How long does one typically foster a dog before it finds a forever home?

There are many factors that can determine how long an animal is in foster care before adoption.
•Breed
•Age
•Size
•Behavioral Issues
•Health Issues

Average estimations, every dog’s case is different:
Adult dogs are typically in foster homes anywhere from 2 weeks to 3 months.
Some dogs can be in a foster home for up to a year or more.
•Bully breeds
•Health issues
•Behavioral issues
Puppies are usually in foster care from 2-6 weeks.

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Getting your foster dog - Intake

Time to pick up your new foster at intake….but wait, what is intake?

INTAKE IS…

Intake is the process that is followed to bring an animal into our SHH family. Intake begins when a
dog is identified and concludes with the dog being connected with the foster family. The intake
event involving foster families most often occurs on the weekend, Saturday nights usually.
However, intake can happen at any time. At intake, animals are bathed, vetted, micro chipped, and
get their pictures taken for our SHH website. After all of these steps are completed, foster families
take their dogs home and begin loving and caring for them until they are adopted.

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Getting your foster dog - Intake

INTAKE
Expect chaos at intake! It is a hustle and bustle environment as dogs are vetted and groomed to get ready to
go to their foster homes.

Before you leave with your dog be sure you have:

Leash Medications
In Spring/Summer – frontline
Dewormer

Food

Belly Bands/Diapers
Helps potty train boys
Kennel/Crate

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Arriving Home – Introductions

ARRVING HOME – INTRODUCTIONS WITH YOUR PETS:

Leave your current dog at home when you pick up your new foster dog.

One of the worst things you can do is to just throw the two of them together in your car and hope for the
best!

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Introduce your dogs on neutral territory, like on a short walk through your
neighborhood, in a nearby park or in a friend’s yard.

Have two people, one to handle each dog, while keeping the dogs on leashes.

Allow each dog to do their business to feel comfortable with their surroundings.

To minimize tension, try to keep the dogs’ leashes loose so that they’re not choking or feeling pressure on
their throats.

Talk to your foster coordinator on tips specific to
the breed of your foster or if there are any
known behavioral issues.
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Don’t force any interaction between the dogs.

If the dogs ignore each other at first, or if one dog seems reluctant to interact with the other, that’s okay.

Remove all toys, treats, balls – items of value to a dog.
This will remove any tension or competition over valued items.

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Give both dogs time to get comfortable. They’ll interact when they’re ready.

Make the introduction positive and light-hearted. As the dogs sniff and get acquainted, encourage them
in a happy tone of voice. At first, allow just a few seconds of sniffing. Then gently pull the dogs away from
each other and let them walk around with their handlers.

After a minute or two, you can lead the dogs back together and allow another several seconds of sniffing.
These brief greetings help keep the dogs’ interactions calm and prevent escalation to threats or
aggression.

You can also interrupt their interactions with simple obedience. After a brief sniff, lead the dogs apart, ask
them to sit or lie down, and then reward them with treats.

LOTS OF PRAISE and TREATS

Reward any animal involved in the introduction when things
are going well and they are behaving like good dogs! You
want them to associate positive reward with that other
animal.

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Closely observe the dogs’ body language.

Loose body movements and muscles, relaxed open mouths, and play bows (when a dog puts his elbows
on the ground and his hind end in the air) are all good signs that the two dogs feel comfortable. Stiff,
slow body movements, tensed mouths or teeth-baring, growls and prolonged staring are all signs that a
dog feels threatened or aggressive.

If you see this type of body language, quickly lead the dogs apart to give them more distance from each
other.

Again, practice simple obedience with them individually for treats, and then let them interact again—but
this time more briefly.

Getting in the house

Follow the same steps above in your yard to ensure each dog is comfortable before bring them inside.

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Human Introduction to a Dog

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If you have children, especially toddlers and young children, supervise
them at all times with the new foster (or any dog).

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Body Language of Dogs

Familiar human queues
to what we are feeling

Dogs provide similar queues to convey what they are feeling.
Dogs are very expressive animals. They communicate when they’re feeling happy, sad, nervous, fearful and
angry, and they use their faces and bodies to convey much of this information. Learning how to “read” a dog’s
postures and signals will enable you to interact with dogs with greater enjoyment and safety. 31


BODY PART GOOD QUEUES NOT SO GOOD QUEUES
Normal shape and size, open comfortably Eyes that appear larger than normal usually indicate that
EYES a dog is feeling threatened in some way
Dogs who are in pain or not feeling well often look as
though they’re squinting their eyes.

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MOUTH Closed, but relaxed or slightly opened Mouth tightly closed

Panting—this is how dogs cool their bodies. You might Lips pulled back slightly at the corners.
see his teeth because his mouth is slightly opened.
Flicks tongue in and out or lick lips

Yawn in an exaggerated fashion

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EARS The size and shape of your dog’s ears will dictate how well he can use them to communicate. Some are dropped
(like a beagle’s), some are pricked (like a German shepherd’s) or semi-pricked (like a Shetland sheepdog’s), and
some hang long (like a Bassett hound’s).

Natural ear position Pulled back slightly

Pulled back slightly
When alert, he’ll raise them higher on his head and he’ll
direct them toward whatever’s holding his interest
Flattened or stuck out to the sides of his head, he’s signaling
that he’s frightened or feeling submissive.

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BODY PART GOOD QUEUES NOT SO GOO QUEUES
TAIL People often assume that a dog with a wagging tail is a friendly dog, but this is far from the truth. And a dog
who isn’t wagging his tail can still be friendly. A dog’s ability to use his tail to express how he feels is limited by
the type of tail he has.
natural position nervous or submissive, he’ll hold his tail lower and
might even tuck it between his rear legs
Wag it gently from side to side. Hold tail higher than normal and stiff if alerted or
aroused by something
really happy, like when he greets you after being apart “flag”, holds it stiff and high and moves it rigidly back
from you, his tail will wag more forcefully from side to and forth. – Holding ground or threatening
side or might even move in a circular pattern

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Relaxed, Happy, Content

Normal and natural posture

Relaxed muscles

Weight evenly distributed or
laying down

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Scared & Frightened

Appears smaller than normal

Hunched

Lowers or cowers to the floor

Lowers head

Recoils

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Curious & Tentative
Tentative posture

Weight centered on back lags
to ensure quick escape

Lowered head

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Alert, Aroused, & Assertive

Tries to appear large

Tense muscles

Stands erect, sometimes on
tiptoes

Neck and head raised above
shoulders

Weight centered over all four
feet or slightly forward on his
front legs.

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Aggressive
Similar to assertive, dominant
posture.

Barking, teeth exposure, growling

Weight will be on front legs to
allow him to charge or attack rapidly.

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What to Expect of the First Night(s)…

ARRVING HOME – FIRST NIGHT:
The first night is always rough! If it is not, you are lucky! Foster dogs are scared and tired from their journey!

Watch your new pup for any signs of illness.
Vomiting, diarrhea, sneezing, coughing are all signs to watch for.
If these symptoms do not resolve within 24 hours, contact the
SHH vet manager.

Expect that they may mark in the house on the first night and will
probably have accidents inside your home.

Bring them outside to do their business multiple times to
provide the opportunity to show them the right place versus
inside your home.

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We recommend that you kennel the new pup for the safety of
everyone.

It is not uncommon for them to cry or whine. Do your best to
reassure them. Sometimes a blanket over the top will help.
Moving the kennel/crate closer to you will provide reassurance
as well.

Over time, you can allow to animal to sleep on a dog bed or near
you if you feel comfortable and it takes comfort in companionship.

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What to Expect of the First Day(s)…

Other feeding tips:
Feed your foster dog in a separate room from resident dog(s).
This will help avoid and arguments over food.

No “people” food.
You do not know what the adoptive family will want to do,
so don’t start a habit they will have to break.

By feeding only dog food, you are also discouraging begging.

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Poisonous foods for dogs:

Chocolate Coffee, Caffeine

Alcohol Avocado

Macadamia Nuts Grapes & Raisins

Raw/Undercooked Meat, Eggs and Bones Yeast Dough

Xylitol - Artificial Sweetener found in Candy and Gum Onions, Garlic, Chives

Milk Persimmons, Peaches, and Plums

Baking Powder, Baking Soda, Nutmeg, Spices

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It's a smart idea to always keep the number of your local vet, the closest emergency clinic, and the ASPCA
Animal Poison Control Center -- (888) 426-4435 -- where you know you can find it in an emergency.

For more detail about each of the foods included and what can occur if your dogs eats one of them view this
slide show:

http://pets.webmd.com/dogs/ss/slideshow-foods-your-dog-should-never-eat

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Housetraining Guidelines:

Determine where he should do his business.

Take him to the same place every time, and tell
him to “do his business.”

Be patient with your foster dog.

Expect accidents to happen.
Dogs that have been in shelter environment,
living outside, or have been through a lot of
stress will have accidents during their first
few days at your home.

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Housetraining Tips: Keep a consistent schedule:
When he wakes up
After he eats or drinks,
after a play session
At least every 2 hours – adult dogs

Once outside:
Stand with him for 5 minutes.

If he eliminates, reward him (with treats,
praise, a favorite game etc).

If he doesn’t go in 5 minutes, take him back
inside and try every 15 minutes until he
goes. Every time he goes, reward him!

Bring the resident dog – learn by example!

Accidents Happen:
If he goes in the house while you’re not
paying attention, don’t correct him ‐ it’s not
his fault. Clean it up and go back to your
schedule.

Never put the dog’s face in his mess, or yell
at him. He won’t understand you, and you
will only be teaching him to fear you.
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Puppy Housetraining:
You can begin to housetrain a puppy at 8
weeks of age.

Follow the same tips for adult

You can train a puppy by using puppy pads as your
approved spot to do his business.

Leash the puppy to you – this will keep them close
and you can catch their signals and any looming
accidents right away.

Puppies should be brought out to pee every 45
minutes – until you learn their pattern.

Supervise the puppy closely while you’re inside.

If he starts to sniff the floor, or even squats
to go, interrupt calmly with your redirect
word, scoop him up quickly and take him to
the approved spot and praise when he
finishes. 48


Marking:
If there are smells in your house from another dog or
cat, some foster dogs may “mark” out their territory.

This action should be re‐directed immediately with a
calm “Ah‐Ah” or “No” or “Outside” and escort him
outside where he can finish.

Be consistent with the tone you use and the redirect
word or phrase you use.

You will then want to use some odor neutralizer (like
Nature’s Miracle) on the areas where the foster dog
“marked” to insure he will not smell and mark that
area again.

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Challenges You Might Face with Your Puppy Mill, Breeder Release, or Hoarded Dog

She spent all of her time in a cage. She was forced to urinate and defecate in it, so she probably learned to lie
in her own waste because no clean surfaces were available to sleep on. Because your puppy mill dog wasn’t
exposed to any new people, animals, sights, sounds or experiences during her critical socialization period
(between three to twelve weeks of age), she’ll likely act as though everything in the world is terrifying. Who
can blame her?

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What to Expect of a Puppy Mill/Breeder Release Dog…

Give your new dog a crate covered with a blanket as a “safe haven.”

•Choose a plastic crate instead of a metal one.

•Remove the top of the crate instead of pulling her out through the crate door, to get her out.

•Set up a “safe room.” A kitchen, bathroom or laundry room works well for this purpose.
•Use a baby gate or an exercise pen.
•Put an open crate, food and water on one side of the room and some newspaper or a few potty pads
on the other.

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Getting used to a leash.
•We recommend that you attach a lightweight leash to her harness and let her drag it around the house.

•Use the leash to get her out from under furniture if she hides.

•This will help her get used to how the leash feels when it’s attached to her harness, which may make on-
leash walks easier.

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Sleeping at night- keep them close:
•Allow your dog to sleep beside your bed in her crate.
•She can quietly bond with you while you both rest.
•Try putting the crate on a table near the bed so that she can easily see you.

Puppy mill dogs often trust new dogs before they trust new people.
•Your dog will be a great comfort to your new dog, as well as a valuable role model.

Keep it low key and exclusive at first.
•Don’t “socialize” your dog as soon as you bring her home.
•Give your her at least a few days to bond with you and settle in before introducing her to strangers.

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Vetting

Vet Visits – SHH Partner Vets
All approved medical expenses for the foster dogs are paid by Secondhand Hounds.

Please get verbal or written approval of any medical appointments, etc. from SHH Vet Manger before action is
taken.

Taking SHH animals to a participating vet is critical as these vets provide services at a fraction of the cost of a
non-affiliated vet.

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Secondhand Hounds – Vet Manager Response time

Thank you for your email.

If this is a foster dog medical emergency or if
you need an immediate response please feel
free to text me at 651-335-7397

If you are inquiring about veterinary records
for your recently adopted pet please check
your spam or junk folder since the messages I
send with them have several attachments and
are routed there by mistake quite often.

THANK YOU!

-Lindsay :-D

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Keeping your home and supplies clean

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Parvo

What is Parvo?

Parvo is a virus that effects dogs in two distinct forms, a cardiac and intestinal form. The common
signs of the intestinal form are severe vomiting and dysentery. The cardiac form causes respiratory
or cardiovascular failure in young puppies. Treatment often involves veterinary hospitalization.

Parvo Symptoms:

Lethargy
Vomiting,
Fever
Diarrhea (usually bloody)

**Diarrhea and vomiting can result in dehydration and
secondary infections can set in.

**We have resources within the SHH community that can
test and validate for Parvo.
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Parvo

Transmission

Parvo disease is spread from dog to dog mainly through
exposure to contaminated feces.

It is also spread through contact with fomites
(contaminated objects).

Common fomites include:
hands
instruments
clothing
food and water dishes
toys
bedding

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Parvo

Transmission

The incubation period, or period between contact with the virus and the
appearance of symptoms, is usually 4-6 days.

Parvovirus can be shed in the feces 3-4 days after infection with the virus, which is
generally before clinical signs of illness appear.

The virus will also be shed in the feces for 14 days post infection.

Treatment

Treatment often involves intense veterinary care and medicine.

We have "parvo" houses that will take parvovirus puppies and nurse them back to
health.

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Bordetella – Definition & Symptoms

What is Bordetella?

Canine Bordetella is a highly contagious upper respiratory condition that affects a high amount of
dogs. Also known as kennel cough.

Bordetella Symptoms:

Dry, hacking cough (sometimes sounds like hacking)
Some dogs vomit after an intense bout
Watery nasal discharge
Conjunctivitis
Sneezing
Diarrhea (usually bloody)

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Bordetella - Transmission

Transmission

Bordetella disease is spread from dog to dog mainly in
the air, post sneeze or cough.

It is also spread through contact with contaminated
surfaces:

Common surfaces include (not limited to):
hands
create
food and water dishes
toys

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Bordetella – Transmission & Treatment

Transmission

It is highly contagious, even days or weeks after symptoms disappear.

The symptoms of canine Bordetella usually occur for about ten days, but the dog is still
contagious for six to 14 weeks after the infection is resolved.

Treatment
Antibiotics may or may not be prescribed.

Antibiotics are usually given to reduce the risk of a
secondary infection, such as pneumonia, or if it is likely
that bacteria has caused the infection.

In severe cases of canine Bordetella, the doctor will
prescribe antibiotics, such as doxycycline or trimethoprim-
sulfa.

A veterinarian may also prescribe a cough suppressant.
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How to Prepare Your Dog to Get Adopted – Writing Bios

Once you get to know your foster animal’s personality, share it with the world. Once they
.
find their forever home, they will always be grateful that you did!

Spoiled Goofy
Cranky

Lazy Snuggler
Curious Playful
Friendly
Sweet Energetic

A good bio will give people a better understanding of the animal’s personality and needs. We will already have all of
the animal’s factual information, such as breed, gender, age, weight, etc. listed on their profile. The purpose here is
to grab attention and make your foster animal stand out.

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Be Creative:

Try doing something different, such as writing from the animal’s perspective. For example, “Hi, my
name is ______ and my foster mom thinks I’m just the sweetest little guy she’s ever seen.”

Another example would be to write a “Top 10” list of reasons of why somebody should adopt your
foster animal.

Write about your foster’s experience at an event and how they behaved and interacted. For example,
how does your foster do partying on New Year’s Eve?

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Play your cards right - first:

Highlight your foster animal’s best qualities that people are commonly looking for right away.

“_____ just loves to be around small children” or “Do you want a dog who is perfect at playing fetch?
Then _____ is the dog for you!” are the kind of first sentences that might make somebody fall in love
with your foster animal before they even meet them.

Be honest:
There are often issues that many animals have, especially if they’ve come from a negative situation
like a puppy mill or a loud shelter.

These are things that we want to disclose to potential adopters because it’s the right thing to do and
doing so will help the animal find the perfect home that is willing to work with them on those issues.

This kind of honesty is best for everyone. It prevents adoption returns and ensures the foster finds
the right family that knowingly loves him/her, flaws and all.

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Stay positive:
Very few animals are without some sort of areas for improvement. While we want to disclose any issues an
animal may have, there’s also a good way to go about making people aware.

For example, if your foster doesn’t do the best with small children:

Instead of writing:

“_____ can’t go to a home with small children”

Try writing:
“_____ is still a young, silly pup that may have too much energy for all small
children to handle due to her size”.

If your foster doesn’t do well with other dogs:

Instead of writing:

“_____ behaves poorly around other dogs”.

Try writing:

“_____ would make the perfect companion for a family that only wants one dog
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If you don’t have something nice to say… :
Every species/breed/size of animal has a fan club. Try to avoid ever making a statement that may turn
somebody off or offend. Writing something like “He’s really friendly even though he’s a German Shepherd”,
for example, may discourage somebody who is specifically looking for that breed from adopting.

On that same note, there may be something about the animal’s personality that isn’t something you would
look for in a pet, but there’s probably somebody who is. Try to imagine that you are somebody that’s
looking for that characteristic and highlight what you might want to hear.

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How to Prepare Your Dog to Get Adopted – Pictures/Video

A picture IS worth 1000 words…

When animals arrive at our rescue, we attempt to get high quality photos of all of
them to put on their profiles right away. After you bring them into your home, you
will often have more opportunities to snap some pictures of them.

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Get down to their level:

This is especially helpful for smaller breeds of dogs, cats and other small species animals. It’s easier to see
some of the greatest features when you’re at the same height as the animal, as opposed to having all of their
pictures from an angle looking down at them.

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Get a variety of angles:

Having a close-up of the animal’s face, a full body shot from both sides, and making sure to snap some of any
distinguishable features will help potential adopters be able to see what the animal looks like and get an idea
of their size before they meet.

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Capture interaction:
Photos showing the animal interacting with other animals and people (especially children) will help them get
extra attention and serve as evidence to their friendliness!

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Use accessories:
Bandanas or animal clothing will often appeal to many people.

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Show them off:

If your foster animal knows how to do any tricks, snapping some pictures of them in action would be perfect,
whenever possible! Cute sleeping pictures are also a sure bet to pull at potential adopters heart strings.

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Video:

Our Secondhand Hounds website can support videos of our fosters. These are extremely valuable and
showcase our dogs!

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Meet and Greet Guidelines

Your number one priority is being your foster dog’s advocate. If you don’t ask the
questions and find out if this is the right family for the dog, who will?

Location:
Best place is at the foster home as the foster will act most natural. But if that is not an option, choose a
park or indoor space without too many distractions but still allows the dog to interact with the adopters.

We highly recommend that humans only are included in the first meet and greet. Resident dogs can meet
the new dog in a subsequent visit. Its important the humans and dog bond first.

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Potential Questions and things to inquire about:
• Adopting family’s history with dogs.
• All family members – ages, opinion of getting a dog
• Non human members of the family – other pets?
• What are the personalities of the resident dog(s)?
• Family members schedule
• Home vs Condo – size of animal, need for space
• Outdoor set up – fence, no fence, dog park
• Vacation plans – boarding
• Vet Plans
• Training Plans
• Allergies
• Supplies
• Discipline style

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Multiple Applications:

•Review each application
•Don’t allow an infinite number of applications to be submitted
•If you get lots of applications, let the Adoption Coordinator know to change the
status of the animal to “No Longer Accepting Applications”.
•Compare details on the application
•Consider behavioral needs of your foster and which applicant is best prepared
to address and live with those needs
•Pick one family to set up a meet and greet
•Let the adoption coordinator know when the meet and greet is scheduled and
that the other applicants need to know that a meet and greet is scheduled and
they will notified if the animal is not adopted.

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Home Visit Form

Be an advocate for the animal being adopted.

Hmmm…

You are the last person to have the opportunity to confirm the animal’s safety in its future home.

Its your job to “judge” the home to make sure it’s a safe, clean, and loving place for an animal to live
permanently. Follow your gut!

If something doesn’t feel right, then it probably isn’t the best home for an animal.

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Home Visit Form

Its OK to say “no”.

If you answer “no” to any of the questions on this form, then the home visit will not be approved since the
applicant/family is not ready to adopt.

You don’t need to give notification at the home visit of your approval or denial.

The adoption coordinator will discuss this with them directly.

If there is a reason for you to say “no”,
the dog can’t say “no” – so you must!

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Home Visit Form

THINGS TO EVALUATE AND CHECK:

Does the house look ready for a new pet?
Are there any red flags (e.g. outdoor dog house/kennel)?

Does the applicant/family seem excited and prepared to have an animal in their house? Have they thought things
through?

Would you feel comfortable leaving your own pet at this home?

Where will the animal go during vacations and when you need to be gone?

Does it seem like the applicant/family respects their house and the people and animals that live in it?

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Home Visit Form

The drop off of the adopted dog is not permitted at the time of the home visit.

Home visit must be completed before the animal is dropped at its new home.

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So Hard to Say Goodbye…

Saying goodbye to your foster is one of the hardest things you’ll do…

The reason we foster is because we love animals.

Saying goodbye to any of your fosters can be hard! Our
attachment animal grows quickly and deeply!

NOTE: Foster families have the first opportunity to adopt their foster animal up until an application has been received
and a meet and greet is scheduled.

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So Hard to Say Goodbye…

Things to keep in mind when considering to adopt a foster animal:
You cannot keep every animal!
If you do keep them will you still be able to foster?
Will keeping this one dog or cat prevent you from saving others in the future?

Finding the perfect home for your foster is the best reward for fostering. There is no better feeling in the world than
knowing that animal will be cared for and loved. Stay in touch with the adoptive families and share the updates and
pictures you get with your SHH community.

When your foster is matched with his or her new forever home, you will know it is the
right, and letting go will be easier. Okay, maybe after a few Kleenexes. ;-)

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Home Visit Form

Dear __________,

Thank you so much for opening your life and home to ___________ (animal’s name). Secondhand Hounds rescues animals that need and
deserve loving homes just like yours. I am reaching out to you to check in and see how your first days are going with your new
animal. Secondhand Hounds is committed to ensuring the transition with our adopting families goes well so that humans and
animals alike are able to form a lifelong bond built on trust and happiness.

Below is a list of common topics our adopting families have questions about. This list is meant to prompt thought and spark questions
that you might have about your new animal. You do not have to respond about everything or anything on this list. If you do have
questions, big or small, please respond to this email or reach out to me or any of the Secondhand Hounds volunteers you have met
during the adoption process.

Housetraining Crate training Vetting/Medical
Socialization with other animals Socialization with children Socialization with men or women
Leash training Separation Anxiety Grooming
Obedience training Behavioral training

At Secondhand Hounds, we get to know and love each of the animals that we rescue. Even if you don’t have specific questions, we would
appreciate a quick note letting us know things are going well.

Thanks again for rescuing __________ (animal’s name). Our best wishes for your joyful life together. We look forward to hearing from
you, and know Secondhand Hounds is always here to support you.

_________________ (email senders name).

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Secondhand Hounds Triage

1 Choose from the
list of SHH Triage
Departments by
clicking on the drop
down arrow

2 Enter your Name
1
3 Enter your Email 2
Address
3
4 Enter a Subject
4
5 Enter your 5
question, the more
detail you can provide
here the better.

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Secondhand Hounds Resources

Thank you for coming and agreeing to foster one of the homeless
animals that deserve a better life! You are giving them that gift!

RESOURCES:

www.secondhandhounds.org

Facebook:
Secondhand Hounds Foster Resources

Secondhand Hounds

Hound Happenings

Make sure you are on our volunteer list to be notified when help is needed!
email to sign up: katherinehermanshh@gmail.com
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New Foster Training Prepares You for Your New Foster Dog

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