2. TOPIC
STUDY OF FABRIC BEHAVIOR FOR
DRESS DESIGN EFFECTS REGARDING
FABRIC CONSTRUCTION & PHYSICAL
PRORERTIES
Prepared by Sarwat Halima
M Phil program
2013-2015
3. INTRODUCTION
• DRESS DESIGNING
We have come across the word
“Design and designers” very often. We always
wanted to know about the design
professionals.
• Dress designing , is only one of the forms in
which fashion finds expression. There are
countless creators of form, or design.
4. INTRODUCTION
• FASHION DESIGNING
Creating or styling the
appearance of a person with reference to
clothing, accessories and beauty in
corresponding with the personality of any
individual is fashion designing.
5. DRESS DESIGN
• Dress design is the applied art dedicated to the
design o f clothing and lifestyle accessories
created within the cultural and social influences
of a specific time.
• A season in dress designing is defined as either
autumn/ winter or spring/ summer.
• Fashion design is generally considered to have
started in the 19th century with Charles
Frederick Worth who was the first person to sew
their label into the garments that they created.
6. DESIGNING A GARMENT
There are few important steps to design a
garment, these are
1) The design
2) Making a toile or muslin
3) Making a card pattern
4) The finished dress
7. DESIGNING A GARMENT
• The design: Different
designers work in different
ways.
• Some sketch their ideas on
paper,
• others drape fabric on a dress
stand, pinning, folding and
tucking it until the idea for a
garment emerges.
• A third method is to adapt
their own patterns from
previous seasons (this method
can give continuity to a fashion
studio's output).
8. DESIGNING A GARMENT
• Making a toile or muslin:
After making a rough paper
pattern, or life-size 2-D
plan, of the garment, a
sample machinist (or
skilled sewing machine
operator) then makes a
trial version of the garment
from plain-colored calico.
The toile is put on to a dress
stand (or a model) to see
how it fits and whether it
hangs properly.
9. DESIGNING A GARMENT
• Making a card pattern:
When the designer is
completely satisfied with
the fit of the toile (or
muslin), they show it to a
professional pattern maker
who then makes the
finished, working version of
the pattern out of card. The
pattern maker's job is very
painstaking. The fit of the
finished garment depends
on their accuracy.
10. DESIGNING A GARMENT
• The finished dress:
Finally, a sample
garment is made up in
the proper fabric.
11. FOUR ESSENTIALS IN DRESS DESIGN
• We will see exactly what the designing of a dress
involves—exactly what we must take into
consideration.
1. The study of the structural lines of the human figure.
2. The requirements of individual types. Suitability.
3. The selection of materials, with reference to color,
texture and weave.
4. Detail—which is ornamentation and shaping, and an
analysis of the laws of design embracing proportion,
rhythm, harmony and the perfect balance of line,
mass and color.
12. FOUR ESSENTIALS IN DRESS DESIGN
• In general the designing of garment for a
different person can be classified in four
• categories.
1. Choice of Material
2. Choice of Color
3. The Design or Structure
4. Decoration
13. CHOICE OF MATERIAL
• The occasion for which
the dress is planned,
• remember that stiff
hard fabrics do not
drape well and should
be used where more
tailored effects are
desired.
14. CHOICE OF MATERIAL
• The selection of
materials, for the large
person should avoid
stiff, wiry, hard surfaced
materials as they seem
to make one look
stouter. Just as soft dull
fabrics tend to reduce
the appearance of size
in a large person,
15. CHOICE OF MATERIAL
• The materials which do
not cling to the figure
tend to make the small,
slender person appear
larger.
• All of the material used in
a particular dress should
be of approximately the
same quality; that is,
avoid using cheap cotton
material on a dress
largely composed of very
fine voile.
16. CHOICE OF MATERIAL
• Some materials which are
quite different, such as certain
wool fabrics, may be used with
satin, or frequently spring or
summer suits of wool are
ornamented with linen.
• Combinations of this kind lend
variety to the dress so that
they are not too severely
monotonous.
• The small person may look
well in a dress made of such
material, but even so it is
desirable that the pattern or
design of the goods is not too
conspicuous.
17. CHOICE OF MATERIAL
• Large figured patterns
in dress material just as
in rugs, wall
paper, etc., grow
tiresome after a short
time.
• Plain fabrics or
materials having small
figures giving a quiet
effect can as a rule by
safely worn by
everyone.
18. Fabrics
• Textile fabrics can be
produced directly from
webs of fibers
by bonding, fusing or
interlocking to make
non-woven fabrics and
felts, but their physical
properties tend to
restrict their potential
end-usage.
20. Fabric Construction
• Most fabrics are made by weaving or knitting
yarns, although non-woven fabrics are made
by bonding or felting fibres together.
• A fabric's appearance, properties and end use
can be affected by the way it was
constructed.
21. Major classification of Fabric
Constructions
1. Woven Fabric
2. Knitted fabric
3. Laced fabric
4. Woolen fabric
5. Blended fabric
6. Stitch through fabrics
7. Non woven fabrics
8. Films
9. Knotted fabric
10. Braided fabrics
22. Major classification of Fabric
Constructions
• Woven Fabrics
• Woven fabrics are made by
using two or more sets of
yarn interlaced at right
angles to each other.
• They can be easily cut into
different shapes and are
excellent for producing
styles in garments
• Woven fabrics are
manufactured in different
widths depending on the
end use
23. Woven Fabric Construction
Woven fabrics are made
up of a weft - the yarn
going across the width of
the fabric - and a warp -
the yarn going down the
length of the loom. The
yarns are inter-locked
together.
• The side of the fabric
where the wefts are
double-backed to form a
non-fraying edge is called
the selvedge.
25. Plain Weave Fabric
• In plain-weave fabric
the warp and weft are
aligned so that they
form a simple criss-
cross pattern.
• Plain-weave is strong
and hardwearing, so it's
used for fashion and
furnishing fabrics.
27. Twill Weave Fabric
• In twill-weave fabric the
crossings of weft and
warp are offset to give a
diagonal pattern on the
fabric surface. It's
strong, drapes well and
is used for jeans, jackets
and curtains.
29. Satin Weave Fabric
• In satin-weave fabric there is a
complex arrangement of warp
and weft threads, which
allows longer float threads
either across the warp or the
weft. The long floats mean the
light falling on the yarn
doesn't scatter .
• The reflected light creates a
smooth, lustrous (shiny)
surface commonly called satin.
The reverse side is invariably
dull and non-shiny. Weave
variations include jacquard
and damask.
30. Satin Weave Fabric
• Weft yarns float
• Less stable than twill or
plain
• Shiny effect
• Used for satin
32. Jacquard Weave
• Jacquard
patterns, when carefully
analyzed, may be seen
to contain combinations
of plain, twill, and satin
weaves, even in the
same crosswise yarn.
• Household Uses:
• Upholstery, wall
hangings
33. Leno or Gauze
• In leno or gauze weave
A pair of warp threads
is twisted over each
other with each passing
of filling yarn in a figure
or an hourglass twist,
creating a geometric
pattern.
• Household
Uses: Thermal Blankets,
curtains
34. Pile Fabric
• Extra sets of warps or
fillings are woven over
ground yarns of plain or
twill weave to form
loops. Pile fabrics have
been defined as
fabrics(s) which stand
up densely on the
surface. They are
• with cut
• uncut loops
35. Uncut Pile
• Loops are possible on
both sides of fabric
• Soft and absorbent,
relatively inexpensive
• Can snag if loops are
caught
• Common Fabrics: Frieze,
terry cloth
• Household Uses:
Upholstery, towels,
carpet, area rugs
36. Cut Pile
Soft and
warm, resilient, absorbent
• May have a nap that must
be matched
• May be expensive and need
professional cleaning
• Method of Construction:
• Similar to uncut pile, but
loops have been cut
• Household uses:
Upholstery, stage draperies.
37. Woven Fabric Characteristics
• Oldest & widely used method of construction.
• Done on a machine called handloom or power
loom.
• Made with two or more sets of yarns
interlaced at right angles to each other.
• Identification of grain.
38. Knitted Fabrics
• Knitting is the construction of an elastic
Knitted fabrics
• Knitted fabric made much more quickly and
easily than woven fabrics at comparatively less
cost
• Knitted fabrics are generally light in weight,
comfortable in wear even during travel,
39. Knitted Fabric Construction
• Knitted fabrics are made
up of single or multiple
lengths of continuous
yarn on a knitting
machine or with knitting
needles.
• The yarns are inter-
looped together.
• There are two types of
knitted fabrics
• weft-knitted
• warp-knitted.
40. Weft Knitted Fabric
• Weft-knitted fabric is made
by looping together long
lengths of yarn. It can be
made by hand or machine.
• The yarn runs in rows across
the fabric. If a stitch is
dropped it will ladder down
the length of the fabric.
• The fabric is stretchy and
comfortable and is used for
socks, T-shirts and jumpers.
41. Warp Knitted Fabric
• In warp-knitted fabric the
loops interlock vertically
along the length of the
fabric.
• Warp knits are slightly
stretchy and do not ladder.
• Warp-knitted fabric is made
by machine. It is used for
swimwear, underwear and
geotextiles.
42. Laced Fabrics
• Lace is an open work fabric
consisting of a network of threads
or yarns formed into intricate
designs. Laces are developed for
beauty and adornment.
• They are manufactured in many
widths, shapes and in limitless
variety of patterns.
• Hand made laces are more
expensive than machine made
laces.
• Laces are produced either in the
form of a fabric or in a shape
suited for a particular end use.
They are mostly used as
trimmings, on apparels and home
furnishings.
43. Laced Fabrics
• Trimming Laces: A wide
variety of patterns are
available in laces used for
trimmings. They are produced
having narrow width ranging
from 1 cm or less width. They
are available at various costs
and certainly with in the range
of average consumer. They are
used as decorative materials,
apparels and other household
materials.
• Nylon Net Laces: Generally
these fabrics contains a net
back ground on which
embroidery is done.
44. Woolen fabrics
• Woolen fabrics are made
from woolen yarn over wide
range.
• These are generally made
in plain weave and
sometimes in twill weave.
• They are loosely woven
fabrics. They are
characterized by extreme
softness and not very
durable when compared to
worsted.
• These fabrics are used for
men’s coat
45. Blended Fabrics
• It is important to observe that
production of staple yarn is
not limited to composition
from one kind of fiber the
staple of two or more kinds of
fibers may be combined for
blended at different stages.
• When different types of fibers
are blended, the properties of
these fibers are also combined
in the blended yarns.
• Textile composites are
generally used for high
technology products for
industry, the military and
aerospace.
46. Worsted fabric
• Worsted's are woven from
long tightly twisted fibers of
2-8" in length these fibers
are usually woven in to a
design or in twill weave, and
are given a smooth finish
which brings out the luster
of the fabric and the design
of the weave.
• Bread cloth and light
weighted flannels are
examples of fabrics made
with worst
47. Films
• Since films are not considered
to be true textiles. They are
sometimes laminated to
textiles and therefore may be
part of the structure of some
textile products.
• They are synthetic polymers
extruded in the form of sheets
rather than as fibers.
• In some cases, these films are
eventually made into fibrous
form by a process called
fibrillation or by cutting the
sheet into fibers.
48. Non Woven
• Masses of fibers can be
held together into a fabric
by interlocking of fibers
by mechanical action or
by fusing fibers together
with heat, adhesive or
chemicals. Examples of a
few fabrics constructed
by these means include
felt, bark cloth, spun lace,
spun bonded and needle-
punched fab
49. Knotted Fabrics
• Some fabrics are
created by knotting
yarns together. Lace,
nets, macrame and
tatting are produce by
knotting.
50. Braided Fabrics
• Braided Fabrics may be
created by plaiting
together yarns or strips
of fabrics. The
components are
interlaced in a diagonal
pattern over under one
another to form a flat or
tubular fabric of
relatively narrow width.
